Caron - Aimez-Moi

Picture: Viola Odorata, Fritz Geller-Grimm,

(cc) some rights reserved, Wikipedia

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Carons kanderade violdoft Aimez-Moi är skapad av Dominque Ropion som jag börjar inse är en av de parfymörer som jag gillar allra bäst. Hans allt annat än minimalistiska floraler har ett djup och intressanta vändningar under sin utveckling. En sådan doft är just floral-gourmanden Aimez-Moi.

Aimez-Moi inledes med ett nästan frånstötande flamberat ackord av viol, anis och en honungslik sötma. Inledande, på gränsen till frånstötande ackord brukar vara en signal om en spännande fortsättning, något som också är fallet under en dag med Aimez-Moi. Ganska snart klarnar doften upp och en frisk violdoft accentuerad av en lätt mintig ton och med kryddor som kardemumma och kryddnejlika  diskret upplyftande i bakgrunden. Anicen finns hela tiden närvarande som den mörka, söta motpolen till violen och de två interagerar som ett huvudtema genom hela doftens utveckling. Ett annnt inslag som jag tycker att Aimez-Moi vilar på är blont trä ungefär som frisk björkträ. Det finns också en lagom doserad, ljus mysk i bakgrunden. Dessutom nämns en rad andra ingredienser men de jag beskriver är de som jag tycker är mest framträdande. Överhuvudtaget har parfymören i Amiez-Moi skickligt spelat på kontraster, mörk och sött kontra ljust och friskt.

Den här beskrivna versionen är EDT:n. Doften är väl koncentrerad och räcker länge på huden. En varning måset utfärdas för överapplicering. Jag tog på för mycket en gång och då tog det söta överhanden på ett mindre smickrande sätt. Jag vet inte om Aimez-Moi fortfarande finns i parfym men jag kan tänka mig att den skulle vara otroligt fin i en dunklare skala också.

Aimez-Moi är i samma genre som Lolita Lempickas anisdominerde parfym med samma namn. Aimez-Moi är den eleganta och väluppfostrade av de två (tänk dräkt från Chanel), Lolita den tuffa och vilda (tänk svart läderjacka). Aimez-Moi är en mycket bärbar doft under vår, höst och vinter, den kan nog bli för söt för varma sommardagar.

I have realized that Dominique Ropion is one of my favorite perfumers when it comes to the floral dominated ones. Carons Aimez-Moi is an another example of his skillfull handling of flowers. In this blend the violet is featured, perfectly matched by anice.  

Aimez-Moi opens with an almost repulsive flambé chord of violet, anise, and a honeylike sweetness. A fragrance that opens with an almost repulsive chord is usually a sign of an exciting future, and this is also the case during a days wearing of Aimez-Moi. Pretty soon Aimez-Moi clears up and the smell of a fresh violet scent accentuated by a slight minty note and spices like cardamom and cloves that is discreatly uplifting in the background. The anice is constantly present as the dark, sweet antithesis to the violet and the two interact as a major theme throughout the entire development of the fragrance. Another element that I think is present in Aimez-Moi is blond wood, like the smell of fresh birch wood. There is also a suitably metered, light musk in the background. There are also a number of other ingredients mentioned for Amiez-Moi, but the ones I describe are the ones I think are most prominent. Overall, the perfumer in Amiez-Moi skillfully played on contrasts, dark and sweet versus bright and brisk.

To me Aimez-Moi is an elegant and well-behaved (think a Chaneldress) interpretation in the same category as the wild and though Lolita Lempicka (think a rough black leather jacket).

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, anice, cardamom, violet, mint, iris, jasmine, magnolia, rose, wood, musk, amber

Serge Lutens - Bois de Violette

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

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Det är alltid svårt att reviewa stora klassiker som så många redan har ventilerat sina åsikter kring. Serge Lutens Bois de Violette är just en sådan hyllad (5:a enligt Luca Turin) och av en hel del faktiskt också dissad doft. De som dissar den tycker att den dofter syntetiskt trä och syntetisk viol, vilket också är helt korrekt eftersom det rör sig om syntetiska noter.

Bois de Violette känns som en melankolisk doft för mig. Den påminner mig mer om hösten och bruna löv strax innan snön gör sitt intåg än om små fina violer om våren. Doften inleds med viol och gröna viol blad och ganska snart känns den karaktäristiska cederträbasen som finns i Serge Lutens boisserie. Jag känner igen mycket från den doft som föregick boisserien, Shiseidos Feminite du Bois men FdB är mörkare, kryddigare, ett distinkt inslag av kanel, och träbasen är tyngre. Det kan i och för sig bero på att jag här jämför FdB från nittiotalet med en tämligen ny version av Bois de Violette, den var tidigare mer kraftfull somjag förstått det.

Efter ett tag känns BdV som en cederträ ask där man förvarat violblad. I nästa fas är det som om asken malts ned till ett mycket finkornigt pulver och doften blir träigt pudrig på mig. Cederträet är milt, inte så blyertspennelikt och liksom rått som det kan vara i vissa tolkningar. I slutfasen är BdV lite tvålig och ger mig vintagekänsla.

Bois de Violette är en mycket fin och bärbar doft, en sådan där att ta på sig när man inte riktigt vet vad man ska ta på sig. Doften är på något vis meditativ och lugnande. Den har en intressant utveckling där den går igenom de faser jag beskrivit ovan. En sådan där doft där, när jag sniffar på handleden, upptäcker att det hänt något nytt sedan sist (om jag inte sniffar för ofta vill säga). En sådan livfullhet i kompositionen är ett tydligt tecken för en högkvalitativ parfym. Projektionen är ganska nära och hållbarheten under dagen god.

It's always hard to review the great classics that so many reviewers already have vented their views about. Serge Lutens Bois de Violette is just such a  praised fragrance (rated 5 according to Luca Turin) but in the same time there are a lot of reviews that actually is anything but positive about this special violet-woody scent. Those who are not positive states that BdV smells of synthetic wood and synthetic violet, which is also correct because the case of the use of synthetic notes.

Bois de Violette is a fragrance that evoke melancholy feelings to me. It reminds me more of the autumn and the brown leaves just before the snow makes its way than the of the small fine violets in the early spring. The fragrance starts with violet and green violet leaves and pretty soon the distinctive cedar base found in Serge Lutens boisline make its entrance. I recognize much from the fragrance that preceded the whole boisline: Shiseidos Feminite du Bois. But FDB is darker, spicier, I can smell a distinct hint of cinnamon, and the wooden base is heavier. This in and of itself maybe because I compare FDB from the nineties with a fairly new version of the Bois de Violette, BdV in it's earlist formulations was much more powerful as I have understood it.

After some time of wearing the smell from BDV reminds me of a cedarbox where violet leaves have been kept.The next phase is as if the whole box with it's violet content, had been ground down to a very fine powder and the smell becomeswoody powdery on my skin. The cedarwood is soft, not as pencil-like and somehow raw as the note is interpreted in some fragrances. In the final stage  BDV is a little soapy and gives me some vintage feel.

Bois de Violette is a very good and wearable scent, one of those to put on when you do not really know what to wear. The scent is somehow meditative and calming. It has an interesting development when it goes through it's different stages. BDV is one of those fragrances which, when you sniff your wrist during the day, you will discover that something has happened new has happend since you sniffed it the last time, this vividness in the composition is a true sign of a quality fragrance. The projection is pretty close to the skin and the longevity is good.

Rating: 4+

Noter/Notes: Viol (blomman), violblad och cederträ./Violet (flower) Violetleaf, cedarwood

Winter strikes back

Picture: Mr Parfumista (c)

Winter strikes back again and today it's snowing as h--l ! Treating my self in the peachy, chocolate, rose, freesia, spicy, patchouli 1969 Parfum de Revolte from Histoire de Parfums trying to find "inspiration" to start with the yearly tax declaration of income. 1969 is a really nice, not too sweet, dessert like gourmand fragrance.

So then my spring-spring fragrancepost probably have to wait for some more weeks.

Carner Barcelona - Tardes

Picture: Tardes, afternon in the countryside

Photo: Carner Barcelona (c)

Carner Barcelona Tardes is created by one of my favourite perfumers Daniela Andrier, the housenose of Prada.In Tardes the founder of the house of Carner, Sara Carner, through Andriers nose will capture the peaceful summerafternoons in the catalonian countryside.

Tardes starts with slight chemical notes that disappears very fast and an airy almond shines through. Soon the almond is supported by flowers and some light herbal notes and it's not hard to imagine the source of inspiration to this balmy and calming fragrance. Tardes is fairly liniear during it's dry down and heliotrophe and musk are supporting and deepen the other notes in the base. I can feel a minior trace of the fresh lighted cigarettenote that I appreciate in D600 in the base, but it is just fragments compared to D600 . Maybe this cigarettenote is a part of the housenote of Parfums Carner, probably it's a part of the musk used in the base.
Tardes is an airy almondfragrance, not surprisingly as it's a creation of the queen of transparency and airiness Daniela Andrier. Tardes is not as sweet as most fragrances with almond as the dominating note. Fragrances as Etros Heliotrophe which has about the same sweetness but has more heliotrophe and tonka then Tardes, Kiss me tender (swedish) by Patricia de Nicolaï which is a pastry take on almond and heliotrophe which almost feels like marzipan. Fragrances as Dior Hypnotic Poison (swedish) and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Castelbajac  (swedish) also features almond but are completely different, denser types of fragrances. Keiko Mecheris Taormine (swedish) is also a different almond, it's creamy and smells similar to an almondy bodylotion. Even if Tardes is slight gourmandy it somehow remains fresh in caracter during it’s whole dry down. Tardes is a very longlasting fragrance that remains unfragemented on skin after a whole day. The projection is fairly close.
The overall impression of Tardes is the airy, gourmandy and almost chilly expression that is also present in another late Daniela Andrier creation, Prada Candy (swedish). As Tardes was launched 2010 and Candy 2011 it is quite likely that the perfumer has worked almost simultaneously with the fragrances and they therefore shares the same theme but using almond as the major note in Tardes and benzoin/resins in Candy. Of the two, I prefer Tardes whith it's fine tuned, almondy, floweriness.

Tardes, as well as my other favourite D600, is a wellcrafted, comfortable and wearable fragrance.It is appropriate for daytime, both casual and to work. An almond that is suitable also in summer due to it's Andrierian transparency and almost chilly airiness.

Rating: 4

Update summer 2013: Rating 5. After wearing from the sample some more times, I totally adore the almond-rosewood-heliotrope combination. Just great and FBW.

Notes: Geranium, rose, rosewood, almond, cedar, plum, celery, tonka, musk, heliotrope

Carner Barcelona - D600

Picture: D600 by Carner Barcelona. This image

perfectly captures the spirit of D600. Photo by Carner Barcelona (c).

The scents of Carner Barcelona is sometimes accused to be to close to other, preferably better mainstream, fragrances. But with the multitude of fragrancereleases of today, which houses are not, and I can't see that Carner stands out among the other regarding this. Even if Cuirs that I reviewed in November last years resembles some other niche releases in the oud-saffron-leather category it's a well done fragrance which fully can compete with the other mentioned. But now, over to the todays subject - D600.

D600 is one of the two initial fragrances for the house of Carner, founded by Sara Carner in 2010. In the fragrances Sara will capture the spirit of her hometown Barcelona and it's catalonian surroundings through the compositions of different perfumers. In D600 the perfumer Christophe Raynaud  hits the target: D600 is the smell of La Rambla a warm summernight, it perfectly captures the modern pulse of the medivial city. D600 starts with notes thats resembles the smoke of a fresh lighted cigarette mingled with iris and jasmine . Later on the blend becomes more flowery with some discrite citric notes well blended, but in a urban, subdued way. There is also a sort of putty, slight lipsticky note that surrounds the flowers which is very pleasant. The base is light vetiver, woody well balanced with a vanillic touch and the light, freshly lighted cigarettenote consists and deepens during the evolution of the basenotes. In the end, blended with the vanilla, there is an almost edible, light gourmand accord. Something also is reminding me of The Different Company Oriental Lounge (in swedish).

D600 is a very comfortable scent, unisex but to my nose it's leaning to the feminine side as opposed to Dior Homme (different versions) which it's sometimes is said to be too similar to. To my nose there is similarities in style and in the irisnote but I think DH is much more lipsticky and the iris is louder and more cosmetic in feel and so is the whole DH fragrance. In D600 the jasmine is almost equal to the irisnote and I can't find the fresh ligheted cigarettenote in DH. Another frag that comes to my mind when sniffing the cigarettenote is Etat Libre D'Oranges Jasmin et Cigarettes but in this scent the cigarettenote paired with jasmine on me,  precipitates in the most unpleasent way. D600 is a much more successful interpretation of the flowery cigarette theme. D600 also intermediate a sort of urban, vegetal feeling that I also can recognize in Annick Goutals Nuit Etoilée . There is also a touch of hot asphalt like in Keiko Mecheris Mulholland (swedish), even if Mulholland is a citrusfrag with winy accords.

Overall, D600 is a pleseant, comfortable fragrance very versatile, the type of fragrance which is essential those days when it's hard to choose which frag to wear. The longevity is satisfactory and the fragrance is interesting during it's whole dry down.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, pepper, iris, jasmine, cardamom, vetiver, cedarwood, vanilla

Thanks to Carner Barcelona for sending a sample for test.

Happy Easter!

Photo: Parfumista (c)

Suffering from a really bad cold, I've hardly been able to work the the past two days but somehow managed to get to the office. I'm now (as also my nose) going to rest during the Easter weekend to get well until next week's obligations.

According to tradition, I usually publish an Easter fragrance post but since my sense of smell is completely vanished  I find no inspiraton. OK not completely vanished as I sometimes smells fragments of the comforting Thierry Mugler Cologne which is my SOTD.

If I didn't had the cold I would have like to wear Le Temps pour d'une Fete by Patricia de Nicolaï, it's crispy green galbanum with springlike hyacinths perfectly fits the Easter holiday as also Antonia by Puredistance which is a more polished take on the theme. First by Van Cleef & Arpels would also be a good choice in this category.

Which you a happy and well smelling Easter!

Parfumerie Générale - Musc Maori

Bild: Choc Rose Cake, foto: SimonJamesKent, (cc)

Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

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Även om jag är en stor Pierre Guillaume fantast, och det beror inte på utseendet :-) utan givetvis enbart på hans högkvalitativa parfymskapande, så står jag bara inte ut med Musc Maori. Rent teoretiskt borde jag tycka om MM med noter som kakaofrön, tonka böna, ambra, mysk och vanilj gourmand men ändå pudrigt torrt, i teorin alltså. Men praktiken är något helt annat: På mig är MM som en tung, smörig chokladcreme, helt enkelt som att smörja in mig med innehållet i en mastig chokladtårta. I bland kommer lätta dunster av varmt smör, ungefär som smör upphettat för att poppa popcorn på traditionellt vis, doften precis när majskornen lagts i det smälta smöret i kastrullen.MM är sammantaget bara alldeles för mycket och på gränsen till illamående framkallande. Jag känner inte av någon typisk vit mysknot överhuvudtaget, en not som på mig antingen är ren och svalknade eller pudrigt "skanky". Men eftersom det är en rent tekniskt bra parfym, som de flesta av PG:s, så finns säkert mysken skickligt inblandad för att förstärka övriga noter.

MM påminner inte om någon annan myskparfym som jag har sniffat på, utan har sina släktingar i den rena gourmandfamiljen. Den doft MM ge mig asociationer till är Missoni men då bara på grund av chokladen, men Missonis choklad är torr och mer diskret än MM:s. En annan doft med chokladdoft som jag kommer att tänka på , men som inte är lika söt och påträngande, är Trussardis Python.

MM är den perfekta fika-doften och kan ha sin plats vid godisstinna högtider som påsk och jul. Men den kommer aldrig in i min parfymgarderob efter avslutandet av ett (redan innan jag fick det påbörjat parfymprov). Det som är kvar räcker till en - två provningar så kanske jag ska ge MM en chans till. Det är ju trots allt en PG. Betyget färgas mycket av min subjektiva upplevelse av MM. Det är en välblandad och speciell doft som på rätt person säkert kan falla ut väldigt bra. Personligen tror jag att Pierre hade en riktigt dålig dag när han blandade till MM.

Even if I'm a great admierer of the art of Pierre Guillaume I think he must have a bad day when he blended Musc Maori. In theory I should like MM with it's gourmand notes of cocoa seeds, tonka bean, amber, musk and vanilla but still powdery dry. But the practice turns out to be quite different: For me, the MM performs as a heavy, buttery chocolate creme, just as smear myself with the contents of a hearty,dense, buttery chocolate cake. Sometimes there are light whirls of hot butter, like butter heated for making popcorn in the traditional way in a saucepan on the stove, it's the scent that is evident just as the corn is put in the melted butter in the saucepan. MM to me is just way too much and on the verge of nausea-inducing

MM does not resemble to any other muskdominated perfume that I have sniffed so far. It's relatives accoeding to me belongs to the pure gourmandfamily. Other scents that MM gives me asociations to are Missoni by Missoni but only because of the chocolate and the Missoni chocolate is drier and overall more discreet. Another chocolateinfused fragrance that comes to my mind is Trussardis Python. But Python is not as sweet and intrusive as MM.

MM is the perfect coffee scent and have it's place at the candy-fueled holidays like Easter and Christmas. But MM will never enter my perfume wardrobe after the completion of the small sample. What is left is enough for one - stuff for ca two more tests so of course I'll give MM another chance. It is after all a PG and PG always stand for high quality in spite of there is an very small part of his creations that I don't like.  It is a well-mixed and original scent that for the right person and in the right proprtion will fit very well. The rating of MM is of course influenced  by my own subjective experience wearing MM.
Rating: 2

Noter/Notes: Kakaofrön, tonkaböna, ambra, mysk, vanilj/ cacao seeds, tonka been, amber, musk, vanilla

Serge Lutens - L'Eau Froide

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

L'Eau Froide is the second release in the controversial Eau-line of Serge Lutens. Controversial as SL is famous for its distinctive contemporary oriental style even if the house haven't been totally faithful to the initial theme during the receant years. L'Eau Froide is inspired of the smell of the snow and the frozen ground just about when it starts to melt in the late winter.

L'Eau Froide starts with an evident citrus detergentnote followed by an infusion of a crispy, icy incensenot. The citrusnote (even if citrus is not listed) is more pronounced than the opening of the first creation of the Eau-line, L'Eau Serge Lutens. The citrusnote is similar to the one in DoubleYou Norvége  and MPG Eau de Camelia Chinois and I have started to wonder if this is a new note, created to be complinat to the IFRA citrusrestrictions. After a while a fresh pinenote comes forward, pine seems to be fashionable this days. The note is evident also in Annic Goutals Nuit Etoliée , but contrary to the cold L'Eau Froide, I precive Nuit Etolieé as a warm fragrance. At the pine-phase of L'Eau Froide I can recognize a similarity to the pine and incense in Olivier Durbanos Black Tourmaline but both notes are more pronounced and according to my opinion better executed in Black Tourmaline.

When L'Eau Froide reaches the basenotes something very familiar appears after a while: The vegetal base of the particular flowery SL Nuit de Cellophane. This vegetal baseaccord are deepen as L'Eau Froide drys down and it's mainly accompanied by the opening citrus and with some pale wiffs of the cold incense.

L'Eau Froide smells good but I prefer the vegetal base paired with flower as in Nuit de Cellophane. I percieve the scent as a mix of distinctive elements from L'Eau de Serge and Nuit de Cellophane paired with incense. L'Eau Froide is an ideal officescent wearable year around but preferably for spring and summer.

Rating: 3

Notes: Olibanum, seawater, mint, incense, musk, vetiver

Perfumed thoughts April 2012

Earlier this week I thought that this weekend would be the right time to publish my list of Spring-Spring perfumes in my serie Spring fragrances, see the earlier post Winter-Spring fragrances. But then Jack Frost returned for the weekend and I lost all the inspiration. But as always there is some perfumed thoughts:

* As the Robert Piguet fragrances is an old love to me I'm really looking forward to the release of the  five fragrances in the Nouvelle Collection created by the Piguet "house-nose"Aurélien Guichard at Givaudan: Bois Noir, Casbah, Mademoiselle Piguet, NoteS and Oud. Earlier, expect from Douglas Hannant by Robert Piguet, the house in collaboration with perfumer Aurélien Guichard  has new-interpreted their old classics Visa, Baghari, Calypso and Futur. Bandit, Fracas and Cravache I think are "regulary" reformulations of the original Germaine Cellier creations. The Nouvelle Collection will be tested and reviewed later if I can get my hands of some samples.

* Another release I have read about but are not sure it will be this year is some new fragrances from Vero Kern, Vero Profumo. As I love Rubj, Onda (swedish) and Kiki I know Vero will deliver.

* I'm also not sure about if or when the perfume/perfumes Mona di Orio was working on when she passed away in December 2011 will be released. As a great admier of Mona, although it is so deeply tragic, I'm waiting of the privilege to take part of her final creation(s).

* There is so many interesting fragrances around and it's hard to select what is worth to sample. As Denyse at Grain the Musc wrote in her post (controversial as she argues about the consequenses of the sharp increase of perfumebloggers)  Enchanted, disenchanted she can't waste time trying out scents that don't challange her. Therefore her strategy is almost only to test and review creations from houses/noses that she know almost always delivers from her point of view. I will try to practice this rule in the future, and I already do that (without thinking of it)  to some extent, but it's not a a planned strategy of mine. As I have many already written reviews "in stock" the mix of favouritehouse/noses and other will remain within the foreseeable future.

That's my perfumed thoughts by now :-)

Huitième Art - Sucre d'Ebene

Bild: Venezuelan sugar cane (Saccharum) harvested for processing

Foto: Rufino Uribe (cc) Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

For review in english, scroll down

I Sucre d'Ebene har Pierre Guillaume verkligen lyckats framhäva just socker. Det är ett lagom sött, inte så raffinerat (i meningen renat) utan ett mörkt socker i oregelbundna bitar som karvats av från en sockerklump. Efter ett tag känns det som om sockret är upphettat och krystalliserat över en créme bruleé, en behaglig dessertkänsla infinner sig. Sockret och bruleén varar sedan tämligen linjärt under hela dagen, det ska finnas trä i basen och det finns säkert där för att väga upp sötman. Spåren av kåda, benzoin, är i så fall tydligare.

Det finns något i Sucre d'Ebene som påminnner om Pradas Candy, troligen är det båda dofternas anknytning till sötsaker. Candy upplever jag som ljusare, pudrigare och lättare medan Sucre d'Ebene är en tätare och mörkare komposition. En annan doft som det finns likheter med är den dammiga pappersnoten i Boucherons Trouble. Sucre d'Ebene är en riktig komfortdoft i kallt och ruggigt väder. Den har god hållbarhet och passar dagtid i de flesta sammanhang. Provet kommer från Fragrance & Art

In Sucre d'Ebene, Pierre Guillaume really managed to highlight the texture of sugar. It is not the refined white sugar but a moderately sweet, dark sugar carved in irregular pieces from a sugar loaf. After a while it feels just as if the sugar is heated up and is crystalized over a creme brulee, a pleasant feeling of a smooth dessert arises. The sugar and brulée lasts then fairly linear throughout the day, with wood  added in the base to offset the sweetness. There is also clear traces of resiny notes as for exemple some powdery benzoin.

There is something in Sucre d'Ebene that's remindes me of Prada Candy, probably that both scents are associated with sweets. I find Candy to be lighter and more powdery , while Sucre d'Ebene is a denser and darker composition. In Sucre d'Ebene, although sweet, I also (oddly) feel traces of the dusty paper note of Trouble Boucheron . Sucre d'Ebene is a real comfort scent in cold and chilly weather. The longevity is good and it is suitable for daytime wear in most contexts. The sample comes from Fragrance & Art

Rating: 4

Notes Socker, benzoin, trä/sugar, benzoin,woody notes

Huitième Art - Manguier Metisse

Bild: Alphonso Mangoes in a box surrounded by straw

Foto: G. Patkar, (cc) Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

Pierre Guilaumes Manguier Metisse är en doft som är totalt dominerad av frukt men ändå inte så typiskt sött kemiskt fruktig som så många fruktiga dofter är. Visst är Manguier Metisse kemisk men jag får ingen "kemikänsla". Mango är inte heller någon särskilt söt frukt utan mer ger ett mer neutralt, lite träigt intryck. I Manguier Metisse finns också en tropisk blommighet och fruktigheten är mörk och dov i tonen. Den not som för mig är dominerande under hela doftens utveckling är något annat, nämligen den plåsterliknande not som finns i Cartiers Panthere Edt och i Musst de Cartier Edt i tidig nittiotals formula. Framförallt ger mig Manguier Metisse ständiga associationer till Panthere och det alltså tack vare plåsternoten, texturen och det blommiga inslaget. Andra dofter med likheter är Montales Mango Manga och även Missonis mörkt fruktiga Missoni har en del gemensamt.

Precis som övriga dofter i Huitième Art linjen är Manguier Metisse en lättburen och vilsam doft, användbar i många sammanhang dagtid. Hållbarheten är ganska bra, projektionen relativt nära och till främst för bäraren själv.

Manguier Metisse by Pierre Guilaume is a fragrance that is totally dominated by fruit. But it is not the typical artificial, sweet fruity thing as so many contemporary fruity scents are. Obviously Manguier Metisse contains chemical ingredients but it doesn't convey a "chemical sense". Mango is also not a particularly sweet fruit, but rather provides a more neutral, slight woody impression. Manguier Metisse is also highlight a tropical floralness and the fruity notes are heavy and overripe. But the note that is most dominant  to me throughout the development is something else. Strangely I smell the patch-like note found in Cartier Panthere EDT and Musst de Cartier EDT in their early nineties formulas. Thanks to this note and the texture of the floral elements above all Manguier Metisse gives me associations with Panthere. Other fragrances thats comes to my mind  are Montale Mango Manga and even the dark fruity Missoni by Missoni.

Like the other fragrances in the Huitième Art line is Manguier Metisse is easy to wear and is somehow restful when I wear it. It is useful in many contexts for daytime wearing. Longevity is pretty good, and the projection relatively close to the wearer.

Rating: 3

Noter: Frukt, mango, frangipani, socker, the/ fruit, mango, frangipani, sugar, the

Huitième Art - Ciel d'Airain

Photo: Parfumista (c)

For an english version, scroll down.

Pierre Guillaumes  Ciel d'Airain är en förbryllande doft. Den inleds av noter som för tankarna till asfalt och varma däck, likt klassiska Bulgari Black. I mellanregistret inträder något som jag uppfattar som en kall och krutig lädernot. Krutigheten finns mer uttalad i Lorenzo Villoresis Teint de Neige. Ciel d'Airain tonar sedan ned i något kallt fruktigt, som ändå inte är sött. Det kalla och fruktiga fortsätter ned i basen där det bottnar i en lätt ambrerande not som får Ciel d'Arian att räcka långt in på kvällen.

Ciel d'Arian är precis som de flesta övriga Huitième Art dofterna, en användbar allrounddoft både för både jobb och fritid. Ingen doft som rör upp utan som bara finns där som en trevlig bakgrund. Provet har jag fått från Fragrance & Art

The Pierre Guillaume creation Ciel d'Airain is an intriguing fragrance. It starts with notes that are reminiscent of asphalt and hot tires, like the classic Bulgari Black. In the middlenotes something enters as I perceive as a cold and gunpowdery slight leathery note. The gunpowder is more pronounced in Lorenzo Villoresis Teint de Neige,  in Ciel d'Airain the impression is a paler version. Ciel d'Airain is then fading into a cold un-sweet fruitness. This cold and fruity stage continues down to the base where it anchors in a light ambrering note that makes Ciel d'Arian to last well into the evening.

Ciel d'Arian is, like the rest of the Huitième Art fragrances, a useful all-rounder useful both for both business and casual wear. Not an earthshakening fragrance, it is just there as a nice background. I received the sample  from Fragrance & Art

Rating: 3

Noter: Fruktiga noter, oliv, päronträ, ambra / fruity notes, olive, pear wood, amber

Bulgari – Omnia Coral

Picture: A closeup of a cavernous star coral Montastrea cavernosa

Photo: Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary Staff, Wikimedia commons

Omnia Coral is the latest creation in Alberto Morillas Omnia line for Bulgari. I like and have received compliments for the first spicy-orange Omnia but I have not tested the earlier flankers Omnia Ametysthe, Omnia Crystalline and Omnia Green Jade.

Omnia Coral is a floral-fruity blend with a cold, musky base that almost resembles ice tea. I recognize the basenotes from Omnia and some other Bulgari fragrances. Omnia Coral is more flowery than fruity and the fruity accord is not overly sweet or girlish, the fragrance seems to be a fruity-floral for grown ups. The opening accord is reminiscent of red berries and some fruits. In this stage Omnia Coral reminds me of a tropical version of Burberry Touch. The berry/fruity stage is followed by watery- and tropical flowers distinctly supported by the musk. Something in this stage, probably the hibiscus and the lingering berry notes reminds me of a non-peppery and softer Madness by Chopard.  Omnia Coral is a distinctive fragrance that is obviously present. I perceive Coral as a cold, cooling water hole surrounded by flowers on a tropical island.

Omnia Coral is reminiscent of some contemporary fragrances in the fresh, floral, musky style. It’s a happy scent, perfect for spring and especially in summer as the longevity is excellent. A soothing fragrance suitable for hot summerdays. But wearers beware, Omnia Coral is very potent and has to be applied with caution otherwise it could turn out to be a loud fragrance that wears the wearer rather than the reverse.

Rating: 2+

Notes: Bergamot, goji berries, water lily, hibiscus, pomegranate, musk, cedar