Huitième Art - Manguier Metisse

Bild: Alphonso Mangoes in a box surrounded by straw

Foto: G. Patkar, (cc) Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

Pierre Guilaumes Manguier Metisse är en doft som är totalt dominerad av frukt men ändå inte så typiskt sött kemiskt fruktig som så många fruktiga dofter är. Visst är Manguier Metisse kemisk men jag får ingen "kemikänsla". Mango är inte heller någon särskilt söt frukt utan mer ger ett mer neutralt, lite träigt intryck. I Manguier Metisse finns också en tropisk blommighet och fruktigheten är mörk och dov i tonen. Den not som för mig är dominerande under hela doftens utveckling är något annat, nämligen den plåsterliknande not som finns i Cartiers Panthere Edt och i Musst de Cartier Edt i tidig nittiotals formula. Framförallt ger mig Manguier Metisse ständiga associationer till Panthere och det alltså tack vare plåsternoten, texturen och det blommiga inslaget. Andra dofter med likheter är Montales Mango Manga och även Missonis mörkt fruktiga Missoni har en del gemensamt.

Precis som övriga dofter i Huitième Art linjen är Manguier Metisse en lättburen och vilsam doft, användbar i många sammanhang dagtid. Hållbarheten är ganska bra, projektionen relativt nära och till främst för bäraren själv.

Manguier Metisse by Pierre Guilaume is a fragrance that is totally dominated by fruit. But it is not the typical artificial, sweet fruity thing as so many contemporary fruity scents are. Obviously Manguier Metisse contains chemical ingredients but it doesn't convey a "chemical sense". Mango is also not a particularly sweet fruit, but rather provides a more neutral, slight woody impression. Manguier Metisse is also highlight a tropical floralness and the fruity notes are heavy and overripe. But the note that is most dominant  to me throughout the development is something else. Strangely I smell the patch-like note found in Cartier Panthere EDT and Musst de Cartier EDT in their early nineties formulas. Thanks to this note and the texture of the floral elements above all Manguier Metisse gives me associations with Panthere. Other fragrances thats comes to my mind  are Montale Mango Manga and even the dark fruity Missoni by Missoni.

Like the other fragrances in the Huitième Art line is Manguier Metisse is easy to wear and is somehow restful when I wear it. It is useful in many contexts for daytime wearing. Longevity is pretty good, and the projection relatively close to the wearer.

Rating: 3

Noter: Frukt, mango, frangipani, socker, the/ fruit, mango, frangipani, sugar, the

Huitième Art - Ciel d'Airain

Photo: Parfumista (c)

For an english version, scroll down.

Pierre Guillaumes  Ciel d'Airain är en förbryllande doft. Den inleds av noter som för tankarna till asfalt och varma däck, likt klassiska Bulgari Black. I mellanregistret inträder något som jag uppfattar som en kall och krutig lädernot. Krutigheten finns mer uttalad i Lorenzo Villoresis Teint de Neige. Ciel d'Airain tonar sedan ned i något kallt fruktigt, som ändå inte är sött. Det kalla och fruktiga fortsätter ned i basen där det bottnar i en lätt ambrerande not som får Ciel d'Arian att räcka långt in på kvällen.

Ciel d'Arian är precis som de flesta övriga Huitième Art dofterna, en användbar allrounddoft både för både jobb och fritid. Ingen doft som rör upp utan som bara finns där som en trevlig bakgrund. Provet har jag fått från Fragrance & Art

The Pierre Guillaume creation Ciel d'Airain is an intriguing fragrance. It starts with notes that are reminiscent of asphalt and hot tires, like the classic Bulgari Black. In the middlenotes something enters as I perceive as a cold and gunpowdery slight leathery note. The gunpowder is more pronounced in Lorenzo Villoresis Teint de Neige,  in Ciel d'Airain the impression is a paler version. Ciel d'Airain is then fading into a cold un-sweet fruitness. This cold and fruity stage continues down to the base where it anchors in a light ambrering note that makes Ciel d'Arian to last well into the evening.

Ciel d'Arian is, like the rest of the Huitième Art fragrances, a useful all-rounder useful both for both business and casual wear. Not an earthshakening fragrance, it is just there as a nice background. I received the sample  from Fragrance & Art

Rating: 3

Noter: Fruktiga noter, oliv, päronträ, ambra / fruity notes, olive, pear wood, amber

Bulgari – Omnia Coral

Picture: A closeup of a cavernous star coral Montastrea cavernosa

Photo: Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary Staff, Wikimedia commons

Omnia Coral is the latest creation in Alberto Morillas Omnia line for Bulgari. I like and have received compliments for the first spicy-orange Omnia but I have not tested the earlier flankers Omnia Ametysthe, Omnia Crystalline and Omnia Green Jade.

Omnia Coral is a floral-fruity blend with a cold, musky base that almost resembles ice tea. I recognize the basenotes from Omnia and some other Bulgari fragrances. Omnia Coral is more flowery than fruity and the fruity accord is not overly sweet or girlish, the fragrance seems to be a fruity-floral for grown ups. The opening accord is reminiscent of red berries and some fruits. In this stage Omnia Coral reminds me of a tropical version of Burberry Touch. The berry/fruity stage is followed by watery- and tropical flowers distinctly supported by the musk. Something in this stage, probably the hibiscus and the lingering berry notes reminds me of a non-peppery and softer Madness by Chopard.  Omnia Coral is a distinctive fragrance that is obviously present. I perceive Coral as a cold, cooling water hole surrounded by flowers on a tropical island.

Omnia Coral is reminiscent of some contemporary fragrances in the fresh, floral, musky style. It’s a happy scent, perfect for spring and especially in summer as the longevity is excellent. A soothing fragrance suitable for hot summerdays. But wearers beware, Omnia Coral is very potent and has to be applied with caution otherwise it could turn out to be a loud fragrance that wears the wearer rather than the reverse.

Rating: 2+

Notes: Bergamot, goji berries, water lily, hibiscus, pomegranate, musk, cedar

Valentino - Valentina

Bild: Valentina reklambild från Valentino (c)

For an english version, scroll down.

Valentina är skapad för huset Valentino av välkända parfymörerna Alberto Morillas och Oliver Cresp. Den presenteras i en mycket vacker flaska. Själva doften är en typisk ung, modern à la 2011 vit blommig floral över en clean vanilj och träbas med lite skalad ambra.

Valentina inleds med lite dämpat, spritsigt, lätt citrusliknande med inslag av de vita blommorna. De vita blommorna, speciellt apelsinblomman blir sedan tydligare för att sedan mingla ihop och söta till sig med en lätt bärig not. När Valentina nått basen finns där lätt vanilj, ambra och lite trä, en snäll och mjäkig bas, en dussinvara. Valtentina påminner om många dofter i den ordinarie doftbilden lite light Miss Dior Cherie, lite Elie Saab blandad med allmän vanilj doft. I basen finns något som påminner om en skalad och pastellblek version av Diesel Loverdose.

Vad har jag då att säga om Valentina? Tja, smells najs aber überhaupt nicht intressant. Inte för en tant som jag i alla fall, men Valentina är också främst tänkt för en yngre generation damer.

Positivt är att Valentina inte har någon tydlig tvättmedelsnot även om den känns syntetisk och att den trots smultron inte är bärigt sötsliskig som så många dofter riktade till den yngre generationen. Valentina är inte heller, som så många dofter marknadsförda mot den yngre generationen, billigt vulgär och flamsigt fnissig utan den har faktiskt viss klass, är rätt diskret och lite posh.

Valentina is created for the italian fashionhouse Valentino by the famous perfumers Alberto Morillas and Oliver Cresp. It is presented in a beautiful bottle that fits the scent, a typical young, modern à la 2011 stripped down white floral over a clean vanilla and wood base with a little scaled amber.

Valentina begins a little muted, sparkling, slightly citruslike with hints of white flowers. The white flowers, especially orange flower then becomes clearer and then mingle together and sweetens with a light berry note. When Valentina reached the base there is a straight forward vanilla, amber and a hint of wood, a kind and almost meeky base, that could be recognized a variety of contemorary creations. The whole perfume also recalls many scents in the regular scentpicture a bit of a Miss Dior Cherie light, some Elie Saab mixed with a general vanilla scent. The base is somewhat reminiscent of a scaled and pastel pale version of Diesel Loverdose.

What do I have to say about Valentina? Well, smells nice aber nicht überhaupt interesting. Not for an old lady like me anyway, Valentina is primarily intended for a younger generation.

The good news is that Valentina, even if it smells smooth synthetic, has no obvious clean detergentnote. The wild strawberry note is not sharp sugary, as in the case of many fragrances targeted to the younger generation. Valentina is not, as so many fragrances marketed towards the young ones, cheap, vulgar and giggly, it actually has some class, it's quite subtle and a bit posh.

Rating: 3

Notes: Bergamot, truffle, orangeblossom, jasmine, tuberose, strawberry, cedarwood, amber, vanilla

Thanks to Escentual for the sample of Valentina 

Amouage - Opus VI

Picture: Sichuan pepper. Photo: Chameleon (cc)

Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

For a later impression of Opus VI, scroll down.
Opus VI is the latest creation (haven't found out by who it's created) in the fast expanding Library Collection of Amouage. Regarding Amouage, my preferences so far is by the main Amouage perfumeline, even if I  really appreciate Opus I and Opus III from the Library Collection.

Opus VI is said to be an ambre, leather, woody compositon and although these notes are present in the composition, they are overall far surpassed by other notes. Not surprising Opus VI opens with a beautiful almost airy ambery note supported by the typical Amouage frankincense-housenote. The incense note advances rapidly supported by strong sichuan pepper at the expense of the pleasant amber and the incense/pepper are soon the stars of the show. The intense incense stage is continuing for hours, supported by pepper and other distinctive spicy/woody notes. When Opus VI reaches the basenotes the pepper/incense calms down, but are still clearly present when hints of the subtle amber comes thorugh  together with wiffs of a well modulated patchouli and sandalwood. The ambernote becomes more distinctive ande the incense/pepper balanced the more the basenotes developes. There is also an almost paperlike, very dry note which probably derives from the vanillanote that I can also detect during the latest stages of the drydown. The latest stages are my favourite parts of Opus VI.

Overall Opus VI is a good fragrance, by superior ingredients. That despite of that Opus VI to my untrained nose maybe is a bit unbalanced as the incense and peppernotes are allowed to dominate the composition almost compleatly. To the price of EUR 275 I also expect something more original. I have already smelled a bunch of similar perfumes as: Montale Dark Oud (peppery with sandalwood), Carner Barcelona Cuirs (peppery spicy leather), Montale Aoud Musk (peppery with musk) and also within the Opus line Opus II (peppery aromatic) and the most similar of all, Amouages Epic Man which bears some greener notes. The peppery anorectic amber Opus VI  definitely provides a good alternative in this genre of fragrances and it's of course up to the wearer to find out which one that best suits the personal taste.

Opus VI is wearable, both for business and pleasure, year around expect in the warmest summertemperatures. It's a unisex fragrance that to my nose slightly lends towards the masculine territory.

Rating: 3+ (March 2012) Rating  5 (May 2012) Reassessment - A few months later I suddenly adore Opus VI. I think the dosage is the key to Opus VI. With only one spritz applied a lovely, almost soapy, oudy, spicy, ambery quality appears. I also smell a note similar to dark and dry choclate and the sandalwood note is obvious but anyway doesn't take the center. Very well blended and so beautiful even if not the most original creation.

Notes: Bay, frankincense, sichuan pepper, nagarmotha, silk wine, patchouli, sandalwood, labdanum, amber

Thanks to Amouage for providing a sample to test.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian - Oud

MFK:s recently launched Oud is a creation of the founder of the house, the skillfull perfumer Francis Kurkdjian. As almost all houses currently, also MFK launch it's own take on Oud which I think is very appealing as I like Oud in different interpretations. Oud definitly is a note that is here to stay and just as many houses has their own amber, vetiver, vanille, incense etc they also need an oud.

The MFK Oud is a different take on the oud-theme. The fragrance starts with some citrus and medical, spicy/herbal notes, like a medical potion. I can recognize traces of MFK Absolute pour le Matin but that one is greener, ligther and have more citrus. As the spicy/herbal potion softens, but still is evident, a slight leathery soft oudnote appears, but also hits of cedar. There is not the sharpness in the oud and it is not loud and dominating as in the Montales. MFK note is somehow a fresh, sporty and casual oud. The medical impression comes mainly by the herbal, spicy, slight sweet "cough mixture" like notes, probably the oud as medical notes, but stronger and more compact, are present in the Montales. The citrus-spicy-herbal qualities of Oud gives the fragrance an almost airy expression. In the basenotes the cedar also is present in moderation together with ditto patchouli and Oud.

Even if not similar in smell, Oud:s character is reminiscent of Montales Aoud Flowers although AF contains some rose which MFK Oud doesn't. MFK Oud is as Mona di Orios Oud an Oud that boycotts paring the rose with oud in favor of other companions, osmanthus in MdO Oud and spicy/herbal notes in MFK Oud.

To summon it all up MFK Oud is a different, very wearable, brisk Oud, unisex in character and with good stayingpower. It's perfect for daytime wearing, especially during the spring and summer.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Oud from Laos, saffron, patchouli, cedar

Thanks to Maison Francis Kurkdjian for providing me a sample to test.

Annick Goutal - Nuit Etoilée

Picture: Wildweibchen mit Einhorn,

Kissenplatte, Strassburg, October 1500,

Unknown author, Historisches Museum Basel,

Wikimedia commons

The latest creation from Annick Goutal Nuit Etoilée, created by the "house-nose" Isabel Doyen will be released later this spring. NE will capture the feeling of walking in the wild forest at night, the magical feel, the fresh minty herbs, moss and the whirls of dark, woody notes.

To me Nuit Etoilée doesn't mediate this impressions, on the contrary I get the image of a warm summernight in the asphalt jungle of a big city. NE starts with a citrusy note that for a very short while reminds of the beginning of The Different Companys chilly DeBachmakov. But very soon NE turns to be a warm fragrance, and stays warm during the whole dry down. A slight dusty jasmine note combined with mint comes forward and at this stage NE reminds me of a gentler version of Etat Libre d'Oranges Jasmin et Cigarettes. There is also a plastic note lurking in the background, but the note is not at all disturbing and fits in with the menthol cigarettes. The mint note is not as distinctive and sharp as in the mint-tea blend of Parfumerie Générale Harmatan Noir. In the basenotes a gentle balsamic firnote appears together with a quiet pine. But there is pine trees in urban surroundings, there is not the wooded, green, sharp- and freshness in the pinenotes as in for example Cacharel pour Homme.

When sampling NE it reminds me of another perfume that I can't identify at first. As NE achieved the middle- and basenotes it's all suddenly clear: NE is close to the transparent, light herbal, light spicy, flowery Turbulences by Révillon, early 2000 Edt-formula. The plastic, minty, cigarettenotes are there in both blends but Turbulences is more flowery, spicy as NE is more herbal, woody in character.

Nuit Etoilée is, according to the picture on the samplewrapper, botteld in beautiful, night dark blue bottles. The mens squarish bottle with it's dark label is the most beautiful. But unfortunately the juice (to me) doesn't quite lives up to the beauty of the blue bottles. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the blend but after the releases of the masterpiece Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille and the distinctive, sappy green beauty Ninfeo Mio I have far higher expectations than NE can deliver. Of course I'm also affected by the fact that I perceive Turbulences during almost the whole drydown of NE.

To summarize: NE is a good perfume but it doesn't stand out among the Goutals, but compared to most mainstream releases it definitly does.NE is a very wearable perfume, foremost in spring and summer. It is classified as an unisex fragrance and I think it's the right classificationas it seems to fit both genders equal.

Update June 2012: Nuit Etoilée is one of those fragrances that grows over time, sniffed it now and then during the latest months, I have learnt to appreciate NE much more then before. In particular I'm appreciating the minty-cigarette-smoky-note which resembles the cigarette-smoky note in my favorite Carner Barcelona fragrance D600.

Rating: 3+   Updated rating June 2012: 4+ .Rating July 2012: 5 This one just grows better with time :-)

Notes: Citrus, orange, peppermint, angelica, imortelle, fir balsam, pine, tonka.

Thanks to Parfums Annick Goutal for the sample to review.

A summary of Neela Vermeire Creations

At first as I read about the Neela Vermeire Creations I was sceptic because the fact that the hyper-producitve Bertrand Duchaufour is the nose. I have to make clear that I really like many of BD:s creations for example Nuit de Tubereuse and Dzongka are two of my top favourites and his Sienne l'Hiver and Bois d'Ombrie are performing well on Mr Parfumista. But in the latest years Bertrand seems to be everywhere, he works for so many houses and projects that it is easy to assume that he will be exhausted and loose the artistic feeling. Therefore my expectations, when I ordered the discovery set, was: High quality perfumes, blends of superior ingredients and technical perfected but without the artistic sense.

I could not be more wrong. All three of Neela Vermeires creations is all of that mentioned above but also with a great artistical sense that is able transmit the images of India (and lot of other images) that the perfumes will convey. Maybe it is Neela who stands for the sentiment of those lovely creations, but also Bertrand definitly demonstrates his artistic skills.

All three of the Neela Vermeire creations are just great and a pleasure to wear. I had a hard time ranking them and even if I have rated all of them as 5 there is of course a ranking within the best rating. Before testing, from what I had read about the pefumes, I thought the rose-oud Mohur would be my favorite as like oud/rose combinations since years. But as often in perfumeland, the obvious candidate in advance, is overtaken by another when it comes to the real test. up to day the spicy oud Trayeé is number one, followed by the original, best fruity blend so far, Bombay Bling with the beautiful pink rose Mohur in bronze position. I guess that Mohur got distanced because I think it's the one of the three fragrances that is as least original compared to other perfumes.

Neela Vermeire Creations is definitly some of the very best fragrances launched during 2011.

Neela Vermeire Creations - Mohur

Picture: Begum Nur Jahan (Mehrunissa) 1577-1645

Wikimedia commons

Mohur is the third fragrance that I tried from the Neela Vermeire Creation Discovery set. It's like it's companions created by Betrand Duchaufour in collaboration with the founder of the perfumehouse Neela Vermeire. Mohur will evoke images of the powerful empress Mehrunissa of the Mogul (Begum Nur Jahan)dynasty but also of the later colonial era in India.

Mohur is a beautiful pink, smooth and creamy rose blend with a almond and gentle traces of pepper, cardamom, coriander, other spices and a foamy leathery note. There is also slight woody and green touch in Mohur and in the basenotes I find a gentle proportion of the almost fresh geranium smelling oudnote from the spicy Trayeé. The oud in Mohur never overpowers the rose, they are interacting in the most harmonius way. There is also a warm and smooth sandalwood among the basenotes, I think Mysore as it has no sharp edges as the australian version.

Mohur is no sillagemonster but it stays close to the skin, unfragmented during a whole day. There is a pleasure to inhale this thick blend loaded with fine ingredients during. Even almost twelve hours after application I can smell the beautiful natural smelling roseoil. This is a fragrance for elegant daytime events and it is also appropriate for elegant summerevenings. And of course, also to cheer the wearer up a gloomy winterday. Other rosefragrances that Mohur reminds me of is Aoud Damascus by Montale, even if thar one is a bit more oudy and have a slight metallic vibe. It has also some similarities (the pink, creamy rose) to Burberry Body, but Mohur is a highquality, oriental version of Body.

Mohur is a must try for pink rose lovers!

Rating: 5

Notes: Cradamom, coriander, ambrette, carrot seeds, elemi, pepper, rose, iris, violet, jasmine, almond, leather, amber, sandalwood, oud, woody notes, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, tonka been.

Neela Vermeire Creations - Trayeé

Picture: Spices in Mapusa Market, Goa, India

Photo: judepics, (cc) Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

Trayeé is a very original, thick, spicy blend, created by Bertrand Duchaufour for the indian inspired perfumehouse Neela Vermeire Creations. Trayeé is inspired by the ancient India during the Veda-period.

Trayeé smells as I image an Indian spicemarket with distinct spices with the unconventional addition of a slight smoky tarnote. The tarnote is most evident in the topnotes but lingers in a dimmed version during the whole dry down. As Trayeé reaches the basenotes a bright, geraniumlike oud becomes the star of the show, even if it interacts very well with the spices. The oud note is the same as I percive in Mona di Orios beautiful Oud but as Monas oud is interacting with the flower of osmanthus, the oud in Trayeé interacts with the spices instead. In the basenotes of Trayeé I can finally smell something slight vanillic that rounds out and soften the other potent notes.

Trayeé is a pleasure to wear and it is perfect for cold days. It is suitable for many occasions, to work or casual. Besides the similarities with the oudnote of Mona di Orios Oud, Trayeés spicyness reminds me of Montales Amber & Spices and also of Lorenzo Villoresis Piper Nigrum but the spiciness of Trayeé i thicker, darker and mysterious than in those two mentioned.

Trayeé is a must try for the spice and/or oud lover and so far it's my favorite among the three Neela Vermeire Creations.

Rating: 5

Notes: Ginger, cinnamon, elemi, black currant, basil, jasmine, sandalwood, saffron, clove, cardamom, vetiver, patchouli, okmoss, cedar, amber, incense, myrrhe, vanille, oud

Neela Vermeire Creations - Bombay Bling

Picture: Different views from Mumbai (Bombay),

Photo: Permission CC-BY-SA-2.0, Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved.

Neela Vermeire Creations first three fragrances composed by the hyper-productive nose Bertrand Duchaufour, are three oriental olfactory gems compund by (as I perceive it and have read elsewhere) very fine ingredients. Bombay Bling is one of them and the one that I thought would be the less interesting of the three, the other are the spicy-woody Trayeé and the rosy Mohur. But sniffing from the bottles, I have bought the discoveryset of 3x10 ml which I really recommend, the one that caught my attention at first was Bombay Bling. Bombay Bling will capture the essence of the modern India.

Bombay Bling is the best fruity fragrance that I have experienced so far. There is not the artificial-chemical-sweet fruitiness, this is ripe, spicy, sturdy, "earthy/stone" fruits as melon (but not the calone-note) mango, litchi, embedded in subdued tropical flowers. Caradmom is present during the whole developement of the scent. The base there is a well balanced sandalwoody-vanilla underscored by gentle tobacco leaves. The whole composition is well blended, balanced and interesting during it's whole dry down. The first time I sampled Bombay Bling it almost vanished, as my skin was eaten the scent. But subsequent attempts proved that with a higher dose Bombay Bling is almost perfect.

Even if not very similar to Bombay Bling gives me associations to Missoni by Missoni, the dark sweet fruity notes,  the same with Casmir by Chopard but that one is more oriental ans sweeter. An airy, aquatic version of the theme is Hermès Un Jardin apres la Mousson where the cardamom and the melon are the common denominators. Calé Tepidarium also, even if citrusladen and sharper, have traces of the special Bombay Bling fruitiness but without the spiciness.

Bombay Bling is a extremly comfortable fruity-spicy oriental, wearable at most occasions, except for sport. I can image it will be just perfect to wear during a warm summer evening.

Rating: 5

Notes: Cardamom, caraway, labdanum, litchi, mango, black currant, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, ylang-ylang, frangipani, rose, patchouli, cedar- and sandal wood, other woody notes, tobacco, vanilla.

Spring fragrances - Winter-Spring

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Last week in The Scented Salamander Marie-Helene heralds the spring with eight fragrances. In the post she divides spring into it's different stages: Winter-Spring, Spring-Spring, Spring-Summer and the odd category Spring-Fall as she found the new L.I.LY from Stella McCartney to contains elements from both spring and fall.

As there is still basicly winter here in this nordic country, but with some spring like days in between, I will choose fragrances for the first category Winter-Spring, fragrances that fits the transition between winter and spring. Later on when we reach the Spring-Spring and Spring-Summer stages, I will post about frags which I crave for then.

Picking 10 for Spring-Winter:

Rive Gauche (YSL): Chilly and bright aldehydes is perfectly illustrating this time of the year. There is power in the rosy, metallic, aldehydic scent while it protends the milder days to come.

Chanel No 5 (Chanel): The icy marble of this aldehydic beauty perfectly fits in time of the breakup of the ice.

De Bachmakov (The Different Company): Have to second Marie-Helene in this choice. Bright, icy, herbals and some citrus with booze. Perfectly recalls my image of the defrosting thundra in Siberia.

Hiris (Hermès): This cold and as I image it, dark-blue, flowery iris is perfectly matching the high, bright and chilly air of the winter-spring season.

Chanel No 19 Poudré (Chanel): Another flowery iris but here it is interpreted as a powdery and musky, light green scent.

Donna Karan Gold (Donna Karan): Spicy, a slight metallic and cold lily over damp soil which defrosts in the sun. But it als has a darkness, as the chilly starlit evenings in the late winter.

Vol de Nuit (Guerlain): Even if not expressed as a cold fragrance it's classical aldehydic, iris-flowery, mossy-sandalwoody structure mediate the image of the starlit sky in a late winter evening. Just as Gold but in another way.

Ensence et Lavande (Serge Lutens): Clean lavender interacting with clean incense in a timeless, calming blend. I image the contrasting warmth from incense burning inside an ancient stone church with the chilly late winter wind outside.

Dzongkha (L'Artisan Parfumeur): The coldness and high air in the Himalyan mountins is perfectly captured in this bottle of cardamom, iris, incense, the and vetiver. Bertrand Duchaufour is truly a master, despite of his speed-creating in recent years.

Aoud Rose Petals (Montale):  A little warmth is also needed to balance the cold fragrances out. Since several years I have found that I crave for this distinctive pink, rosy, oud, saffron blend in the Winter-Spring.

Parfumerie Générale - Praliné de Santal

Picture: Pierre Guillaume

Photo: by Parfumerie Générale (c)

Praliné de Santal is another successful composition from handsome parfumer Pierre Guillaume. PdS was released in Pierres limited edition together with the cosy, cuddly Tonkamande 2010. Both scents have the cosy feel in common but where Tonkamande is more sweet, vanilla oriental, PdS is more of a gourmand woody.  

The first impression of the topnotes of Praliné de Santal is to write it off as it with its nutty and buttery notes smells similar to one of my favourites from Lutens, Jeux de Peau. But as the latter proceeds in the buttery direction with notes of bread and apricotjam, the former takes a different direction into a soft woodyness, more specifically into sandalwood. The sandalwood i soft, smooth and light, not heavy, sharp and almost sneezy as I strangely enough perceive this noble wood in Lutens Santal de Mysore. The smooth sandalwood is present during the entire dry down of PdS. In its earlier stages there is almost a hint of something light green and a certain bubbly, soda-like, slight calky note that is also present in Rochas Tocade but in Tocade this note is turned up several octaves. There are also traces of a sweet flower, probably the heliotrophe, but there is not the mimosa-almondy heliothropic note as in Parfums de Nicolaïs Kiss me tender or Etros Heliothrope. In the latest stages the sandalwood in PdS is blended with a soft praline note that in a harmonious way underscores the sandalwood. 

PdS is a real delight to wear a sunny winterday. Smooth and comforting, versatile for both casual and officewear.

Rating: 4

Notes: Heliotrope, sandalwood, hazelnut, cedar- and cashmerewood.

Serge Lutens – Chypre Rouge

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Chypre Rouge created by Christopher Sheldrake 2006 is a contemporary interpretation on the classical, dark-fruity chypre theme. The fragrance starts unconventional with a topnotes loaded with cranberrynote followed by delicate notes of incense and a note similar to cumin over a base of mossy notes and some traces of incense. The dimmed incense is the note that is still there in the end of the dry down of Chypre Rouge. There is strangely also a note that reminds me of a crisp lily in the mix. I do not find Chypre Rouge particulary sweet, a common objection in reviews of the fragrance. 

Chypre Rouge is in similar style with Rochas Femme, which contains much more cumin and Annick Goutals Mon Parfum Cheri par Camille which instead is patchouli dominated but those fragrances are more distinct in appearance. Compared to them Chypre Rouge seems a little weak, with it’s lower projection and as the scent seems to fall apart fairly quickly. But Chypre Rouge  is a good alternative to the wearer who want to make a soft and smooth but in the same time uncommon olfactory statement. It’s an office friendly scent that don’t interfere with anybody (almost). Best suited to wear during the colder months.

Rating: 3

Notes: Caraway, pine tree needles, honey, beewax, jasmine, amber, patchouli, oakmoss, musk, vanilla

Royal happiness

 

Picture: H.R.H Crownprincess Victoria and H.R.H Prince Daniel

Photo and Copyright: Kungahuset.se  (Royal Court)

 

Today is a day of joy and happiness here in Sweden. Our beloved Crown Princess Couple HRH Crownprincess Victoria and HRH Prince Daniel became parents to a little princess, the futhure heir of the throne. I had already put Burberry Body on when Mr Parfumista called and told me that Prince Daniel *)  hade something to announce at 7.00 am. If I had known I would have applied something more royal to celebrate the little Princess but I think Body is quite ok as it reminds me of pink roses in a smooth and fluffy creaminess. This happening made me recapitulate which fragrances I have worn the other special days of this nice couple:

The  engagement day February 24, 2009: Guerlain L'Heure Bleue, if I had known that morning what happy news that would be delivered I would definitly chosen something else. But on the other hand, that was the first time something really happy occured when wearing L'HB, two times when I have worn it (and I don't wear it often) sad things had happen.

The wedding day June 19, 2010: As the event was well-known (to say at least :-) in advance I could prepare for a royal spritz with Montales Highness Rose.

Now we (the royalists at least) are looking forward to the baptism of the little one later this spring. And of course I'm planning to report about this event from the same olfactory perspective :-)

*) The Prince Daniel story is the Cinderella-story of the 2000s: A young energetic man raised in a middle class family in a small municipality, moves to the capital of Sweden, get educated to be a Personal Trainer, starts an exclusive gym, becomes the PT of the Crownprincess, the business grows to a several gyms, the couple have to hide from the press and in the same time try to convince the King about their love and Daniels suitability as the consort to the future queen. After eight years, 2009, they finally got the permission to marry and where engaged. But at that time Daniel was seriously ill as he from his youth had an nonfunctional kidney and the other one was deteriorated. Luckily Daniels father Olle donated a kidney and everything went well. The wedding 2010 was like a fairytale and Daniel became HRH Prince Daniel. Today he is performing very well in this very special role. Almost all (at least the roylistic) women in Sweden loves Prince D as he seems to be the most perfect, caring, secure in himself, natural, polite, chivalrous guy one can image.  

Montale - Dark Purple

Picture: Still-Life with Bouquet of Flowers and Plums,

Painting by Rachel Ruysch (1664-1750)

Royal Museum of Fine Arts of Belgium, Wikimedia commons

Montales Dark Purple created by Pierre Montale 2011 is somehow, even if it's not a dark, fruity chypre but instead a floral oriental, Montales answer to Annick Goutals Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille. Dark Purple starts in the typical bold Montale style and also remains bold during the rather linear dry down. The fragrance starts peppery, with some similarities to Dark Oud even if oud ist not mentioned among the ingredients of Dark Purple it's probably there. Then a dark plummy note glimpse, but the plum is not as deep, compex and wellrounded as in Mon Parfum Cheri..., in Dark Purple the plum is more flat and one dimensional. Dark Purple also contains a good dose of green and sparkling geranium paired with rose, to my nose a bit similar to the geranium hefty Oud Flowers. The patchouli in Dark Purple is not as predominant as in Mon Parfum Cheri...and it's of the contemporary, clean, stripped type and not the deep, dirty vintagelike patch in Mon Parfum Cheri...The rose together with geranium and musk, with an unobtrusive impact of plum, is what remains as the dominating accord as Dark Purple settles in the basenotes. In this stage Dark Purple is also reminiscent with Montales Roses Musk and this stage lasts and lasts as the truestyled Montale this fragance is.

Dark Purple is a perfume true to the Montale style and is a good choice for the colder seasons. But as it's similar to many other Montales there is no need for this if one's parfumewardrobe already contains some of the heftier ones. But for a perfumerbuyer just entering the world of Montale, Dark Purple is a good alternative in the heavier group especially to the wearer that don't like oud as a predominant note.

Rating: 4

Notes: Orange, plum, geranium, patchouli, rose, red berries, teak wood, amber, musk

By Kilian - Ambre Oud

Picture: Resiny wood. Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

By Kilian latest creation in the Arabian Nights collection Ambre Oud is a well-mannered amber composed by the (almost) housenose Calice Becker.

In the topnotes Ambre Oud starts as a relatively clean amber, followed by some traces of a light powderness. As the scent drys down it becomes a little darker and also sweeter as ther is a obvious note of a fine vanilla (like vanilla pods) in the base. The vanilla reminds me of the vanilla note in Havana Vanille by L'Artisan Parfumeur. There are also woody notes in Ambre Oud but not much oud, to my nose anyway. Maybe Ambre Oud is build among the same idea as the earlier release Incense Oud, a parfume without oud that are intended to get the olfactory image of oud. But Ambre Oud doesen't even give me that oud image as Incense Oud does.

To me Ambre Oud is a good but not groundbreaking amberperfume, wearable for most occasions during the colder months. A good choice among others for customers who are searching for an elegant basic amberperfume without oddities. It's an alternative to the likes of Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan or Ormonde Jaynes Tolu. Ambre Oud never gets as dry, fluffy and (gun)powdery as Mona di Orios Les Nombres d'Or Ambre nor dark, dusky and slight dirty as L'Ombre Fauve by Pafumerie Générale, my two favorite ambers.  

Rating: 4 +

First I rated this 3+ because I don't think it's original enough even if well balanced and of good quality. That rating made Mr Parfumista upset as he thinks Ambre Oud is a very good fragrance and deserves a rating at least as 4 or actually higher. As he is very picky about fragrances I had to reconsider my earlier rating and raise it a step. Mr Parfumistas own rating of Ambre Oud ís at least 4+. 

Notes: Amber, benzoin, vanille, cedar, laurel.