Anatole Lebreton - Incarnata

Picture: Incarnata
Photo: PR Anatole Lebreton (c)

Incarnata which is the latest Anatole Lebreton creation starts with a very true, dry, dusty,  powdery, not so sweet lipsticknote, that sort of vintage lipstcknote, a scent I'm remember since childhood. Cosmetic notes is also the theme for this intriguing, retroinspired perfume. It has a putty lipstick texture but is not as violet-rosy as Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose or sweet and dirty as Etat Libre D'Orange Putain des Palaces. After a while, there is a note appearing which smells close to cummin, but not the sharp varity, this is sort of a smooth versio. There is also hints of something similar to cough syrup but in a positive way. As Incarnata dries down, a smell that resembling the image of the texture of a thick, transparent, cold fluid appears: A splendid, deep myrrh, not as dark as in Huitième Art Myrrhiad but also not as airy as in Serge Lutens La Myrrhe, here it's almost the myrrh from Guerlain Myrrhe et Delires. The result of the myhrr mingling with the powdery notes is brilliant; the cosmetic notes becomes enlighted and almost refreshing.

Incarnata is a suitable perfume for a evening out in the opera or in the theatre. It's sort of sophisticated, robust with hidden secrets, like an untidy apartment hiding behind the perfect facade of a buildning on a posh street. It's an intriguing perfume which shifts during its development and evokes different images. The sillage is medium and longevity is very good with clear traces remaining after 24h. To me Incarnata is a very feminine perfume.

Like the other Anatole Lebreton fragrances I have tested, Incaranta is intriguing, well made and stands out in the flood of niche releases. I would like to own a bottle of each and thankfully those fragrances are quite reasonable priced to be niche, 90 EUR/50 ml.

Rating: 4

Notes: Raspberry, violet, rhododendron, orris root, myrrh, rose, powdery notes, amber, suede, benzoin vanilla