Puredistance - Aenotus

Picture: The visual feeling of Aenotus,
watercolor of Marleen Molenaar
PR Puredistance (c)

Aenotus is the just launched perfume from one of the most exclusive perfumehouses, Dutch  Puredistance. Aenotus is the result from an over three year long creative process where the founder of Puredistance, Jan Ewoud Vos, together with perfumer Antoine Lie, created the signature fragrance for Jan Ewoud. The name Aenotus is made-up by Jan Ewoud, inspired from the greek mythology and more precisely, Aeolus  the god of the winds.  Based from testing performed by both Mr Parfumista and me, I can tell the name definitely is suitable for this airy contemporary  citrus-aromatic creation.

The very first impression when spritzing Aenotus is the high quality and seamless blending of the ingreditents. This is of course the sign of all the Puredistance perfums and becomes obvious in a minimalistic and clean construction as Aenotus. The perfume (Aenotus, like the whole Puredistance line, is close to the skin, extrait formulas) starts with an accord of a very natural smelling lemon, a lemon with depth and a soft roundness, probably a contribution from the complementing orange fruits. There is also a note reminicent of lime. A glimpse of fresh minty leaves appears followed by a very light and well behaved touch of the moist, watery greeness of  one of my  favorite green fragrances Beaufort Fathom V (whereas Fathom V is not well behaved ). I also got a short impression of vintage Eau de Rochas and Mr Parfumista also smells a glimpse of vintage Bowling Green from Geoffrey Beene. Further in the dry down, a shining, white, dry chalky note appears, wrapping Aenotus in a soft rounded aura, not soapy at all, it conjures a similar smooth texture and feeling. There is also a spritzy dry, blond woody, peppery accord, probably from the black currant buds combined with mint and the musks in the base. The peppery effect is quite distinct on Mr Parfumista and Aenotus on his skin becomes reminiscent of a softer luxuary sibling to Hermès Eau de Citron Noir.

In the basenotes Aenotus is stronger on the musks and a sort of dry sunwarmed woody peppery accord amplifies when it comes to Mr Parfumista wheras my skin brings out more of chalky and minimalistic, contemporary mossy notes, even if some of that special woody/peppery accord is also there. Several testings of Aenotus confirms that the performance of the fragrance is very sensitive to the wearers skinchemistry and also to the dosage.  When I'm wearing Aenotus there is an impression in the baseaccord, maybe the mossy note, that reminds me of  the "scenery" (not the scent itself, except fragments of the mossy note) of Pierre Guillaumes beautiful contemporary, mossy Papyrus de Ciane.  Also there is something in common with the mossy musk in Chloé Nomade, even if  Nomade as a fragrance is different, it's floral and sweet compared to Aenotus. When I'm wearing Aenotus glimpses of the citron is still there, also in the base. On Mr Parfumista the base is more onedimensional, like a thicker and smoother, sunwarmed, dry, peppery wood à la Hermès Citron Noir. As I've smelled Aenotus projecting more times from Mr Parfumista than from myself,  Citron Noir is altogether the fragrance that most comes to my mind when evalutating Aenotus.

Picture: Aenouts in its elegant packing
in different sizes, 17,5 ml, 60 ml, 100 ml.
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

Wearing Aenotus is comfortable but still intriguing as the fragrance triggers differnt associations, to other fragrances and also to the context of the fragrance. Imagines like a cooling breeze a sunny spring or early summerday by the sea with sun and a clear blue sky are the first impression. When leaving the direct seaside, scents from the rural landscape appears like greenery, woods and moss.

Aenotus is a versatile fragrance, it's suitable for daytime wearing year around. It's an understated and officefriendly perfume which wears close to skin. If properly applied of course, the rich formula allows only a few tiny spritzes, if overapplied it could  be almost suffocating. Longevity 24h + even if moderate applied. Compared to other aromatic fragrances, which in comparison often seems "thin" in texture, Aenoutus is multifaceted with a full texture, and something as rare as an aromatic fragrance in perfume formula. Even if Aenotus is a unisex fragrance leaning to the masculine side, I'm planning to wear it anyway and I'm certain I'll exploring new facetts and impressions. To be continued.

Notes: Orange, mandrin, lemon, yuzu, mint, blackcurrant bud, petitgrain, oakmoss, patchouli, musks

Thanks to Puredistance for the sample to test

Best of 2018

Picture: Cap Néroli
Photo: PR Parfums Nicolaï (c)

Picture: Néroli Intense
Photo: PR Parfums Nicolaï (c)

As 2018 should be the year wearing from my own perfume wardrobe, I only tested a few perfumes launched during the year. Therefore I couldn't announce a winner in "Best of 2018" even if there where some that I enjoyed and will write about below. Of course both the nérolis Cap Néroli and Néroli Intense from the reliable quality house Parfums de Nicolaï were great.

I also enjoyed Atelier Cologne Iris Rebelle very much, the Rebelle is my favorite from the AC line together with Café Tuberosa which was launched in 2017.

Picture: Iris Rebelle
Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c)

Picture: Rose Rouge
Photo: PR Van Cleef & Arpels (c)

Picture: Gucci Guilty
Absolue pour Femme
Photo: PR Gucci (c)

Gucci Guilty Absolue pour Femme is in the dark patchouly contemporary chypre genre that I appreciate much, here with a juicy blackberry touch. Even if good it's not reaching  the level of Gucci Guilty Absolue pour Homme. Rose Rouge from Van Cleef & Arpels was another nice addition this year which also has some dark tangy fruit involved. The new variation of Coco Mad,  Coco Mademoiselle Intense  (which I wear today) is the winner (of the few I've sniffed) in the dark patchouly, contemporary chypre genre, at least for me, an  admirer of the Chanel style.

Picture: Coco Mademoiselle Intense
Photo: PR Chanel (c)

Picture: Nomade
Photo: PR Chloé (c)
  

Picture: Flerur d'Argent
Photo: PR Miu Miu (c)

Picture: Ombré Leather
Photo: PR Tom Ford (c)
 

Other good releases in 2018 were Miu Miu Fleur d'Argent  a musky, cold, grand floral and the quiet and floating Chloé Nomade slight mossy and suedelike. A 2018 release   that Mr Parfumista appreciate much is Tom  Ford Ombré Leather even if he likes Tuscan Leather better, the dept, strenght and longevity of TL is better than OL.                   
 


Picture: Eau de Citron Noir
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

A fragrance that confuses me among the  launches is Hermès Eau de Citron Noir. On  me it smells as sort of a peppery hell, on my son it smells really good, like a sundried, salty, lime infused piece of wood on a sandy seashore.

 

Addition on 31 December 2018: I knew there was some good launch I've forgotten when I wrote this entry and today I'm remember which one, when reading the best of 2018 on Bois de Jasmin. It's Hermès Cédre Sambac which is actually no 1 of the ones I've tested 2018. Probably I forgot about it as there was only a only a brief test, a single spritz and a scentstrip at NK departmentstore. So maybe I can't include it as properly tested but who cares when it comes to this beauty, a clean woody jasmin that somehow reminds me of an upscale variation on Cacharel Scarlett a fragrance that i didn't like in it's heydays.

Picture: Hermessence Cédre Sambac
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

HAPPY NEW YEAR 2019!  

Short impressions of some new fragrances

Picture: Stockholm Sergels Square,
between  NK and Åhléns,
the two major departmentstores
Photo: Borrowed from the  KTH website

I have speed sniffed some relatively new arrivals this weekend. Below some short impressions:

Hermessence Agar Ebene (Hermès): A beautiful, high quality leather, first impressions of another Hermessence; Cuir d'Ange where Agar Ebene is fuller and more mature in its texture. Somehow I come to think of a nice and anxious leather, more "simple" in construction , not as complex and charcteristic as for example Chanel Cuir de Russie with its dry gunpowdery and light flowery notes. Unisex.

Hermessence Cedre Sambac (Hermès): A full and fruity, jasmine contrasted by the fresh, slight peppery cleanness of cedarwood. An intersting combination where the jasminenote reminds me about of the jasminedominated, white floral accord of Cacharel Scarlett but less sweet. Cedre Sambac is unisex, leaning to the feminine side.

Eau de Citron Noir (Hermès): Lemon with accompaning dry, smokey teanotes and slight peppery woody notes. Refreshing, without beeing clean in style, longlasting and with a good sillage taken ion consideration it's classified as an Eau de Cologne. Unisex leaning slightly to the masculine side.

Café Tuberosa (Atelier Cologne): Starts with thick tuberose, bergamot, blended with dry cacao and maybe a hint of coffee. It's a thick blend, vintage in style reminding me in texture and style of Vero Profumo Rozy. Later there are traces of the colognestyle with hints of citric notes.

Coco Mademoiselle Intense (Chanel): As a lover of Coco (Coco Noir) in all its incarnations, the Intense Mad inerpretation is just was I expected: A darker, denser, lower on the fragrance note scale then the regular Coco Mad. The patchouli is also more pronounced and the flowers subdued compared to the original. Even if similar to each other I need both variations....

Best of 2020

In 2020 the year of Covid-19, the opportunities to sniff/try new releases, has been limited. Below the releases from 2020 which I've tested.

The winner

Picture: Puredistance Rubikona
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

Puredistance Rubikona - The more I wear Rubikona the more I love it. Starts chilly crisp and than gets warmer, wonderful creamy flowers, patchouli and moss. A real contemporary chypre, like a modernized version of a classic green chypre. This is the scent of power and self confidence, the role model for Rubikona must be Ursula von der Leyen, an Ursula in any age. When wearing Rubikona, I'm always come to think of the power woman  UvdL and her cool blonde apperance. 

Picture: Serge Lutens Fils de Joie
Photo: PR Serge Lutens (c)

The close contender

Serge Lutens Fils de Joie - Sweet, jasmine of different types drenched in honey, glowing like the sunset in the late summer, followed bt a dark but warm, mysterious starry night. This is the best Lutens for years and it reminds me of a scent from the past, have to wear Fils de Joie more to find out which.

Picture: Goutal Le Temps des Rêves
Photo: PR Goutal (c)

The no 3

Annick Goutal Le Temps des Rêves - Even if not as complex as the other two, LTdR is a well constructed, lovely contemplative soft white flower fragrance with notes of neroli and contrasting bran which is a new note to me in perfumes. Happy and comforting with a good stayingpower taking in consideration it's an EDT and a Goutal. Reminds me of the beautiful Hermès Hermessence Cedre Sambac.

The rest of the bunch

Picture: Dolce & Gabbana The Only One Intense
Photo: PR Dolce & Gabbana (c)

Dolce & Gabbana The Only One Intense - This is my secret obsession this autumn/winter.  Delicious, without too much sweetness. Fluffy, creamy coconut and neroli, contrasted by an applenote. Comforting and de-stressing. A hidden gem among the mainstreams.

Picture: Goutal Rose Pompon EDP
Photo: PR Goutal (c) 

Annick Goutal Rose Pompon EDP 2020 - A 2018 release in a new bottle 2020, maybe also the notes are tweaked somehow, dont know as I havn't tested the 2018 EDP. I was not so fond of the 2018 EDT which was a bit weak IMO. The EDP is thicker, the typical sweet (here not too sweet) raspberry rose which has been so popular the recent years. The raspberry rose done right.

Picture: Guerlain Patchouli Ardent
Photo: PR Guerlain(c) 

Guerlain Les Absolus de Orient Patchouli Ardent - I don't like the opening which is dry, a bit peppery, woody. Then suddenly PA changes and becomes deep green as a dark fig note appears and the woody notes goes from woody to green conifers. The patchouli is not present as detectable note, it plays a second role, blended with oud, contributing with a fresh but dark earthiness. Dark woody and figgy glimmering green, like wandering through a primeval forest. 

Picture: Hermès L'Ombre des Merveilles
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

Hermès L'Ombre des Merveilles - My favorite among the Merveilles. A darker version of  the salty L'Ombre des Merveilles Bleue. I find with some similarities with the light smoky, sundried woody black tea accord from Hermès Eau de Citron Noir an underestimated fragrance in the Hermès Cologneline.