Oriza L.Legrand - Oeillet Louis XV

Picture:Portrait of Louis XV of France (1710-1774)
Maurice Ouentin de La Tour 1748

Oeillet Louis XV is a multilayered and fascinating fragrance from the  venerable perfumehouse Oriza L.Legrand,established 1720. Oriza from gold (or) and rice (riz) as the house started as provider of ricepowder to the whigs which were fashionable at that time. Normally I'm no fan of carnation fragrances but Oeillet Louis XV is the fragrance that could change this (or is the exception) because it's by far the best carnation fragrance I have tested.

Oeillet Louis XV starts with a natural smelling carnation. It's the scent of a fresh and crisp carantion, just picked. The spicy facets of carnation are perfectly balanced and also feels very natural. The carnation in the opening I image as bright red  followed by likewise fresh white and pink carnations in the middlenotes. In this part the carnations are counterbalanced of some cold flowers, white lily and iris. In the basenotes the carnation is darker, the spicier clove appears. The notes interacting in the base together creates a light note reminiscent of  licorice which is very pleasant. The texture of  the whole drydown of Oeillet Louis XV
is powdery and smooth silky with a slight tart note that balances the dry, spicy carnations. When smelling Oeillet Louis XV  it is easy to image the dry ricepowder for the hair, whigs and skin as also the colorful costumes of the rocooera. This is the fragrance of Madame de Pompadour, the most famous of Louis XV:s mistresses, a fragrance for daydreams and nostalgia.

Picture: Full-length portrait of the Marquise de Pompadour
Pastelpainting by Maurice Quentin de la Tour between 1748-55

Oeillet Louis XV is all about carantion, an achivement that many fragrances mimicing this flower fails with. For example Vitroil d'Oeillet (in swedish) by Serge Lutens is more about iris-hyacinth-rose and  lacking the natural freshness. Maître Parfumeeur et Gantier  Soie Rouge is fruity and the carnation note is a bit too weak and fleeting. Both the mentioned carnation fragrances also doesn't manage to keep the scent of carnation sufficiently until the end of the development.

It's seems as I'm wearing Oeillet Louis XV very well as I received compliments spontaneously when testing it and I also feel very comforable in this unusual fragrance. Finally I found the carnation for me :-)

Rating: 5

Notes: Pink pepper, mandarin white carnation, carnation absolute, white orchid, iris, rose, spicy clove rice powder, white musk, white honey, woody notes

Thanks to Fragrances & Art for the sample to test.