måndag 10 april 2017
Soon Easter....
A post will probably show up on Thursday or Friday instead.
måndag 3 april 2017
Carner Barcelona - Rose & Dragon
Picture: Saint George and the Dragon (1432-35) Painting by Rogier van der Weyden (1399-1464) Wikiart.com |
And that one can imagine: Rose & Dragon is a thick, dark, rosy, spicy potion, resting over an animalic, soft leathery dept. The fragrance is sweetened with the todays it-note in contrasting leather or other dark, rough notes: Sweet berries as raspberrys and strawberrys, which could also be found in for example Masque Russian Tea, Tom Ford Tuscan Leather and Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather (not mentioned among the notes in the latter but I can smell it). Rose & Dragon has some similarities in style with these fragrance but is rosier, more animalic and spicy. It is also sweeter, has a certain liqueurish vibe, is much more deep and mysterious. When it comes to the latter; Rose & Dragon delivers the same mysticism as another dark and deep rose, Frapin Nevermore, even if that spicy rose interpretation is almost dry and less sweet than Rose & Dragon.
To my note Rose & Dragon is also the most feminine of the three fragrances in the Black Collection and also more feminine than the fragrances mentioned above. A more feminine dark and mysterious rose I come to think of when wearing Rose & Dragon is Parfumerie Générale Isparta.
Picture: Rose & Dragon PR: Carner Barecelona (c) |
Wearing Rose & Dragon is a pleasure and the day is filled with constant wrist sniffing. It's wearable also for elegant evening but should'nt be restricted for such occasions. It's a quite linear fragrance and one can enjoy its mysterious and beautiful accords almost all at the same time. Longevity is about 24h and sillage is medium.
Rose & Dragon is my favorite from the Black Collection, an excellent example of the dark, deep, mysterious sort of rosefragrance which I love.
Rating: 5
Notes: Saffron, cumin, wild strawberry, cinnamon, bulgarian rose, turkish rose, honey, incense, castoreum, leather, labdanum, amber
Etiketter:
Acqua di Parma,
Black Collection,
Carner Barcelona,
Colonia Leather,
Frapin,
Isparta 26,
Masque,
Nevermore,
Parfumerie Générale,
Review,
Rose,
Rose & Dragon,
Russian Tea,
Tom Ford,
Tuscan Leather
måndag 27 mars 2017
Carner Barcelona - Black Calamus
Picture: Acorus Calamus Köhler Medizinal Planzen from Wikipedia |
And this one (unfortunately as this is expensive stuff) also turned out to be a winner.
I can read that the Calamus plant is growing in damp conditions and I have probably seen it myself in some fen in the wood unaware of what plant it is. I also read that the root has a very special aromatic, bitter, sharp and spicy taste and I can imagine that when wearing the concentrated and multifacetted fragrance Black Calamus. Black Calamus starts woody and in the same time sort of fresh, like some stiff, crispy, thick leaves growing in a chilly, moisty surrounding paird with the fresh smell of juniper wood. The pepper is (thankfully) very well balanced and adds a natural sparkle to the creation. When Black Calamus dries further on resisns and balsams softening the fragrance and takning it to darker depths, still with a distinct woody background where a touch of oud inteacts and creates an oriental twist. Black Calamus is comforting to wear but still an interesting fragrance, there are new twists on the theme, featuring different accords, during the dry down. It's really a dark fragrance but not sad, thick or cloying. Even if not groundbreaking, this dark woody style is well estabilshed since years, Black Calamus a real pleasure to wear. Compared to some other fragrances from the dark aromatic woody category, Balck Calamus is darker, more balsamic, resinious and a bit sweeter and spicier than: Robert Piguet Bois Noir which has a similar theme but is situated higher on the perfume "octaves scale" and Ramón Monegal Dry Wood which is lighter, brigheter, drier with a bit mossy soap added to the super dry wood. Robert Piguet Oud is another fragrance I come to think of when wearing Black Calamus, RP Oud also starts with a cold impression.
Picture: Black Calamus Photo: PR Carner Barcelona (c) |
Rating: 5
Notes: Calamus, black pepper, coriander, papyrus, labdanum, osmanthus, turkish rose, vanilla, agarwood (oud), incense, juniper
måndag 20 mars 2017
Carner Barcelona - Sandor 70's
Picture: Sandor 70's Photo: PR Carner Barcelona (c) |
Sandor 70's starts with the soft suede character which is characteristic for the whole dry down of the fragrance. First the suede is paired with an almost caramelized, round boozy accord with tobacco where also dark, dried fruits like in Serge Lutens Boxeuses are hidden. It's like resting in a comfortable leathery clubchair, reading the newspaper in the lounge of a venerable gentlemans club even if Sandor 70's is inspired of one of the most iconic bars of the 70’s in Barcelona so maybe the chair should be a bit more contemporary in style. There are also an intriguing contrast from emerging from the depts of the fragrance, hints of something animalic, furry reminding me of the horsey aspect of Rania J. Oud Assam but the intepretation is more polished and quiet in Sandor 70's. In the middlenotes there is also a glimps of the pleasant "dust on a lit bulb" which is more prominent in another leather gem of 2016 Téo Cabanel Kasar as also in the opening of Mona di Orios first fragrance Carnation. The basenotes of Sandor 70's is dominated by an extreamly pleasant accord, smooth, balsamic, fresh leathery/tobacco with a balancing note of patchouli. The vanilla is not present as a single note but I can imagine it softens and fills out the other notes.
Picture: Sandor 70's Photo: PR Carner Barcelona (c) |
Those who likes fragrances in the style of for example Puredistance Black, Parfums MDCI Cuir Garamante, By Kilian Back to Black and Huitème Art Liqueur Charnelle should definitly try Sandor 70's.
Rating: 5
Notes: Suede, bergamot, jasmine, osmanthus, rose, tobacco, clary sage, cedar, peru balsam, vanilla, leather, patchouli, vetiver, incense, oakmoss
måndag 13 mars 2017
Parfums de Nicolaï - Rose Royale
Picture: Parfums de Nicolaï Rose Royale, resting in the snow, reminding of the coming Spring Photo: Parfumista (c) |
Rose Royale starts pink rosy with natural smelling fruity accents. The fruity notes are somehow almost dry in appreance and there is nothing too sweet or artifical about it. I especially recoginze the note of passionfruit but lighter and not as prominent as in for example Vero Profumo Rozy Edp or in the tribute to the passionfruit flower from Maître Parfumeur et Ganiter Fraîche Passiflore. In the topnotes also there is also a contrasting glimpse of the fresh, tangy nuance of blackcurrant as also the bergamot which provides the fragrance with a particular chic style. Coriander also brings a light green, refreshing spicy touch to Rose Royale, which togther with the bergamot, provides a slight retro vibe or perhaps it's more appropritate to call it timless.
Picture: Rose Royale Photo: Parfums de Nicolaï (c) |
Beeing an "easy to go" EDT aimed for spring, Rose Royale has a good longevity if liberally applied. I can smell traces on skin after more then 12 hours. It's a very wearble daytime fragrance both for work and casual. The sillage is somewhere between close and medium.
Rose Royale is something to tray for those who like a uncomplicated but still wellconstructed, rose soliflore as for example Annick Goutal Rose Pompon, Maison Francis Kurkdijan À la Rose and Téo Cabanel Early Roses.
Rating: 5
Notes: Blackcurrant buds, passionfruit, bergamot, coriander, rose, ambrette, immortelle, sandalwood, guaiac wood, musk
Etiketter:
A la Rose,
Annick Goutal,
Early Roses,
Fraiche Passiflore,
La Fille de Berlin,
MFK,
MPG,
Parfums de Nicolaï,
Review,
Rose,
Rose Pompon,
Rose Royale,
Rozy EDP,
Serge Lutens,
Teo Cabanel,
Vero Profumo
måndag 6 mars 2017
BeauFort London - 1805 Tonnerre, Coeur de Noir, Vi et Armis & Lignum Vitae
Picture: PR BeauFort (c) |
Picture: 1805 Tonnerre Photo: PR BeauFort London (c) |
Coeur de Noir - Starts very powerful with the fumes from black, heated tar. A short glimpse of the smoked herring of 1805 Tonnere above, and smoke, like the smell of smoke in a moist environment, as from fires on the docks . Later Coeur de Noir calms and a sweet almost minty element joins the composition which now is very indoor with a cold inky note appearing together with a cold tobacco and leather accord.
Vi et Armis - Here is also the BeaFort signum, the smell from tar, dry and salt licorice. The opening is very pungent, almost agressive and very masculine in style. Later the scent of burnt rubber appears together with a very light sweetness, as if the licorice no changed to the sweeter variety. Reminds me a bit of Chamens Party by Honoré de Prés and with the burnt rubber texture of Bulgari Black.
Lignum Vitae - The scent of a crispy cracker or cake contrasted by the light scent of a mixed, airy, flower bouquet composed of flowers in cold light pastel pink-apricot shades. All surrounded by an seaish, slight salty and sandy, airy accord with a sort of acid, citric note.
Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the samples for test and review
måndag 27 februari 2017
BeuFort London - Fathom V
Picture: Paiting by Albert Bierstadt (1830-1902) |
Fathom V starts chilly, crispy, green with a smell similar to narcissus but a bit more flowery, lily is mentioned among the ingredients. There are also green coniferous elements, like fir and juniper. Soon also a cold, earthy smell emerges, like the just thawed earth in late winter/early spring. This accord is contrasted with a glimpse of an animalic note which slight resembles the smell of cat fur. After a while a windy element appears in Fathom V, it smells like someone is airing out an attic closet in an old house by the seaside during a cold, windy day early in the spring. Something in the concept/texture but not in smell reminds me of a outdoor variation of Parfumerie Generale L'Ombre Fauve. Further on in the drydown, the fog is rolling in over the cost from the open sea. Salty elements together with seaweeds and algaes appears in the blend, and later also a hearbal almost minty note, shows up, clearing the fragrance up from the fog. The salt and mint slightly reminds me of another Perfumerie Generale Harmatan Noir and for the airy salty vibe also Laboratorio Olfattiva Salina but Salina is warm in texture. The icy cold and dry lily is present during the whole dry down of Fanthom V and as it settles, there is also a moisty, mossy element supporting the green herbal accord sweeping over the scent of fresh soil.
Picture: Fathom V Photo: PR BeauFort London (c) |
One of the best fragrances in 2016 IMO, if I had sampled it then, it would be among the top three.
Rating: 5
Notes: Juniper berries, tangerine, black currant, green notes, soil tincture, thyme, lily, jasmine, ylang-ylang, ginger, cumin, black pepper, mimosa, patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, salt, incense, atlas cedar, amber
Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to review
Etiketter:
1805 Tonnerre,
aromatic,
BeuFort London,
Coeur de Noir,
Fathom V,
Harmatan Noir,
L'Ombre Fauve,
Laboratorio Olfattivo,
Lignum Vitae,
Onda,
Parfumerie Générale,
Review,
Salina,
Vero Profumo,
Vi et Armis
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