Guerlain - Rose Barbare

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Rose Barbare is created 2005 by Francis Kurkdjian for the Guerlain L'Arte et la Matiere line. Rose Barbare were one of the first three released fragrances of the line, the other was Cuir Beluga and Angelique Noir all created by different for the occasion specially, by Guerlain invited perfumers. As an admirer of complex roseperfumes, Rose Barbare is the fragrance I most appreciate in the L'Arte et la Matiere line. Rose Barbare is a gourmand rose, just as all the fragrances of the L'Arte et la Matiere line is oriented towards the gourmand theme.

Rose Barbare opens with an accord of a creamy and intense pink rose accentuated with greenery. After a while the fragrance deepens in darker notes of patchouli and wood. In this stage with the dark and deep notes, Rose Barbare shows similarities with another Francis Kurkdjian composition, Lady Vengeance from Juliette Has A Gun. The creamy, honyed accord in Rose Barbare, remains and soften the composition during the whole dry down. The concept with the flower embedded in a smooth creamy texture is also used in Cruel Gardenia in the same perfumeline.  There is also an almost vintage touch of Rose Barbare, passages during the development that reminds me of a classy, vintage perfume.

Rose Barbare is an elegant perfume. Just as its siblings in the L'Arte et la Matiere line Rose Barbare is very comfortable, interesting and absolute beautiful. In the same time it's uncomplicated and easy to wear and I suspect that this is a bestseller. Combing those factors is a true work of art and creates a classic. Rose Barbare is a perfect companion for festive events but also to brighten up a gloomy day. Sillage is medium and longevity 24h+.

Rose Barbare would be appreciated by those who like rose scents in the range from  moderate to dark. For example Rose de Nuit and Sa Majeste la Rose by Serge Lutens, Une Rose by Parfums Edition Frederic Malle, Eau Suave by Parfume d'Empires and Roses Musk by Montale.

Rating: 5

Notes: Aldehydes, rose, honey, fenugreek, patchouli, wood

Guerlain – Angelique Noir

Angelique Noir is one of the first fragrances of the Guerlain L’Art et la Matiere Collection. Angelique Noir is created by perfumer Daniela Andrier in 2005.

Angelique Noir starts with a sweet almost almondcake, counterbalanced by a dry fresh hay like note, like newly mown hay. In the background a deep, dark flower is lurking together with a contrasting, almost crispy, flowery note, similar to the note of freesia. The dark, flowery mix is very sweet but not cloying at all. Angelique Noir is very thick in texture, like a viscous, dark liquid or a black, heavy, velvet robe. Indeed, this could be a dark, fallen angel. The angelica note seems to be very concentrated compared with for example the transparent angelicanote in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d’Or Musc where it seems to be used more as a sweet, herbal-spicy, flower accent. A fine vanilla note is counterbalancing the dark, slight herbal-spicy flowery notes and the gourmand accord created seems almost edible.

Angelique Noir is a fragrance of it’s own, there are not many of it’s like. It’s a sweet but balanced with dry notes, floral gourmand oriental and as the skilful composes fragrances Angelique Noir is, it’s never being cloying in spite of it’s dark sweetness.

Angelique Noir is an elegant comfort scent, perfect for the cold and dark autumn and winter. Sillage is medium and longevity about 24h.

As I can remember, I haven’t tried any fragrance that is close to Angelique Noir so far. Even if not smelling the same fragrances in the same spirit as Angelique Noir are:  Dior Addict (old version), Tom Ford Black Orchid, and Guerlain Insolence Edp but also fragrances in the, form the former fragrances different style, as Parfumerie Générale Drama Nuui and The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit.

Rating: 5

Notes: Angelica, red berries, pear, caraway, jasmine, vanilla, cedar

Read this

Picture: Patricia de Nicolaï - a true Master Parfumer
Photo: PR Parfums de Nicolï (c)

Speaking of Guerlain, there is a very interesting interview on Fragrantica with the Guerlain descendant and true pillar of good and timeless perfumery; Patricia de Nicolï. I really  like her down to earth and
straightforward opinions about the current trends in perfumery.

Unfortunately, one can read between the lines, that future increases in prices are possible as the brand will start with marketing activities and has/will straighten up the bottledesign from their IMO old charming bottles with non-conform labels. So probably all the complainers about the "ugly bottles" finally reached their goal: Raised prices for the last affordable niche line.

Fragrance(s) of the week (40-43) 2013

Picture: The first three fragrances of  L'Art et la Matiere line,
promotionpicture from Guerlain (c) Guerlain

Or to be correct, fragrances of the following weeks: I will be publishing my impressions in reviews of the Guerlains from the L'Art et la Matiere line (less Spiritueuse Double Vanille but that one wasn't originally belonging to the line) which I appreciate very much. The fragrances are delicious and gourmand in style, great perfumes for the coming dark and cold months. The "event" is starting on Monday with the mysterious Black Angel....

Iris Nazarena & Iris Silver Mist - Short impressions

Picture: Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas
Photo: PR Aedes de Venustas (c)

Short impressions from two days in a row wearing of the 2013 Iris Nazarena from Aedes de Venustas created by Ralf Schwieger and the classic Iris Silver Mist from Serge Lutens created by Maurice Roucel in 1994.

My first impression of Iris Nazarena was "not original enough" for its price probably because I recognized other perfumes in each stage of IN. The carrot and earthy opening similar to ISM and Heeley Iris de Nuit but a more intense and longer lasting carrotaccord, the next more flowery part of IN that partly reminds me of Hermès Hiris with some spicy traces. The base with the typical current tart, putty but in the same time almost slight powdery musky accord with light traces of incense, an accord present in the bases of for example Les Exclusives Chanel 1932, Grossmith Amelia, Puredistance Opardu, Oriza L Legrand Oeillet Louis XV and Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin. But the sum of its parts puts this fragrance in a higher dimension, it is very pleasant and intriguing, I think the "recognizing other beautiful perfumes"effect during the drydown, contributes to this overall impression. This effect is also something I perceive in Kerosene Copper Skies even if this is a different fragrance. IN is concentrated and longlasting.

Picture: Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens
Photo: PR Serge Lutens (c)

When it comes to Iris Silver Mist the whole composition feels smoother, earthier, watery, like damp soil. The carrotopening is shorter and not as intense as in IN and the iris lends more to violet and leafy notes. The base is woody-musky. ISM is more harmonious, the different parts are seamless woven together, the composition is introvert, calming and meditative whereas IN is extrovert, louder with more radiance.

For lovers of  rooty irises, Iris Nazarena is well worth testing as well as the reference fragrance for this style Iris Silver Mist.

Frapin - Paradis Perdu

Photo: View of the World's Fair, Paris, France,
engraving 1889, Wikimedia Commons

Paradis Perdu the latest fragrance from the also in perfumery so successful venerable house of brandy, Frapin, is created by perfumer Amélie Bourgeois.Paradis Perdu is inspired of the temporary iron and glass palaces of the Paris World Fair 1889. The pavilions, showing their iron lacework foundations, celebrated the rise of industry and the "Art Nouveau". The Eiffel Tower was completed to the fair and its entrance arch. From this time the house of Frapin has an unique storehouse created by the master of ironconstructions, Gustave Eiffel.

Paradis Perdu opens with green, juicy notes, like long blades of grass swaying in the wind an early, warm and sunny autumnday. A distinguishable and natural grapefruitnote are present during the the first part of Paradis Perdu, a non-catpie sulfatic grapefruitnote, something that I have positivly experienced in some fragances lately. Maybe there has been some developement of the grapefruitformula lately as the grapefruit is much more pleasing today than some years ago. Later on Paradis Perdu highlights dry hayish notes, contrased with fuller notes of slightly fermented grapes, after all, Frapin is a cognacmanufactur. In this stage the overall impression of Paradis Perdu is similar to Jour d'Hermès. An almost fizzy galbanum and a bright vetiver are also evident. The best part of Paradis Perdu in my opinion is the contrasting, dark, smoky, tarry woody, mossy, resinbase with some traces of wine, a base that reminds me of a much less bomastic and smoother version of the base of Copper Skies by Kerosene. In the base, darker and lighter passages interactes, the lighter ones, dominated by a fresh vetiver. Reaching the basenotes, is like  experience the chilly and crisp autumnevening just when the sun has went down.

To me Paradis Perdu the first 2/3 are light considering it's a Frapin fragrance. The basenotes are deeper, fuller and more Frapin-styled. Paradis Perdu perfectly pictures an early autumn day, from the crisp sunny beginning, over the warmer, sunnier, fuller and sweeter middle of the day to the chilly and fast darkening evening. Two days after my full wearing day of Paradis Perdu I put on the same jacket as I worn the testingday and smelled something very familiar: Ivoire from Pierre Balmain. On fabric Paradis Perdu has transformed to a more homogeneous fragrance than I experienced it on skin.

Picture: Paradis Perdu
Photo: PR Frapin

Sillage is close and longevity 12h+. Perfect for autumn but will also be good for spring, especially the earlier stages of Paradis Perdu. Paradis Perdu catches (like some other perfumes* the latest year) parts from different parfumes/parfumstyles and could therefore please a wide range of perfumelikings.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, citron, mandarin, basil, spinach, vine, ravensara, galbanum, elemi, paradisamide, vetiver, hay, cedarwood, rosewood, labdanum, precious woods, moss, musk

*) Kerosene Copper Skies was the first fragrance obvious with this concept (to my nose), Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena is another one.

Parfums de Nicolaï - Eau sOleil

Picture: Eau sOleil
Photo: PR Parfums de Nicolaï (c)

Eau sOleil is the latest addition to the successful Parfums de Nicolaï Eau Fraiche-line in which one light and casual fragrance is released each summer. Eau sOleil, created by Patricia de Nicolaï as always, is featuring neroli.

Eau sOleil opens with a mellow nerolinote, creamy, on the verge to powdery, in texture. The image it evokes is dark , just like the background of the picture above. The neroli is contrasted by a mix of fresh citrusnotes and fresh note of thyme and the bitter herbal note from wormwood. As the citrusnotes decline, Eau sOleil gets more flowery, with the orangeblossom still dominating. The creaminess is present during the whole dry down of the fragrance and it lends Eau sOleil a smooth and pleasant expression. The blend is anchored in patchouli and musk which gives Eau sOleil an excellent longevity for a fragrance categoreized as an Eau Fraiche. The musky base is also present in the rework of the classic Annick Goutal soliflore Néroli, Les Colognes Néroli, but cleaner in this lighter and more straightforward neroli interpretation.In the basenotes, Eau sOleil is almost retro in style and it reminds me of the beautiful La Dame aux Camélias from Jardins d'Ecrivains. The neroli interpretation also has resemblance with the Patricia de Nicolaï classic Cologne Sologne but that one is simpler in construction and more of an old school cologne IMO.

Eau sOleil is not the bright, spakling, fizzy soliflore "Eau de Neroli", Eau sOleil is a deeper and a bit more complicated fragrance with its contrasting herbal and creamy notes. To me it's a orange/herbal dominated standard Edt not a lighter/brighter Eau Fraiche and I think one should take that into consideration when judging Eau sOleil. I have read some reviews which are slightly dissapointed on Eau sOleil, among other complaining about the restrained neroli in the dry down. Probably the reviewers expect a sparkling colognestyled fragrance and therefore doesn't judge Eau sOleil on its own merits. To me, Eau sOleil is the best and most intriguing fragrance in the Patricia de Nicolaï Eau Fraiche-line so far.

As almost always with Patricias creations, a well blended and casual chic fragrance. Very versatile and appropriate for daytime wearing year around. Longevity for 12 h+ with medium sillage. Those who likes Prada Infusion Fleur d'Oranger will probably also appreciate Eau sOleil.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Lemon, mandarin, bergamot, petitgrain, herbal thyme, wormwood, jasmine, ylang-ylang, neroli, patchouli, musk

Thanks to Parfums de Nicolaï for the sample to test