Peccato Originale - Quick reviews

Picture: Papaver somniferum. (Schlofmoon)Franz Eugen Köhler (1897), Köhler's Medizinal-Pflanzen, Wikimedia commons

Peccato Originale (Original Sin) is an Italian nichebrand founded by chemist/pharmacist Silivia Monti inspired from her her work in a pharmacy and the clients she met there. The fragrances har created by Siliva in collaboration with not revealed pefumers, expect one which is mentioned; Lucca Maffei. I have tested samples of four fragances from the line which consists of at least eight fragrances which is defined as unisex.

Antidoto Reattivo is a juicy citrusdominated fragrance with a cold spicy vibe from cardamon. There are also contrasting, green notes with an almost dry, airy, very light flowery, tangy touch and also a boozy slight antiseptic element in the base. Maybe the dry, flowery, tangy impression is from mate which is mentioned among the notes. Something in the over all expression reminds me of a less flowery Une Nuit de Bali Fleur des Fleurs.


Iniezione di Morfina despite its name this one is a classical, powdery, floral aldehydic musky fragrance with the usual flowers rose, iris, jasmine but here with an noticeable addition of lily of the valley. A late follower to fragrances in the style of Lorenzo Villoresi Teint de Neige, Etat Libre d'Orange Putain de Palaces and Frederic Malle Iris Poudre et al. The Morfina is very feminine to my nose

Picture: Tintura Spiritosa
Photo: PR Peccato Originale 

Tintura Spiritosa starts like a random Mancera/Montale fragrance with rose and spice but much less oud. The oudy impression soon disappears and TS becomes sweeter with a tangy blackcurrant (the berry) note combined with  a light boozy touch and tea accents. This over a  musky peppery resin amber base where the pepper is quite detectable.

Cantaride the softest and most polite of the four tested. A light amber with angelica which creates the typical contemporary classic suedenote. Some very light animalic passages as also a very light touch of booze glimpses by and all is grounded in a pleasant musky base. A comforting, calming and pleasant "wrist-sniffer". Cantaride makes me think of fragrances as Guerlain Cuir Beluga and to a soft and tame variation of Annick Goutal Sables.

My impression from the sampling is that the Peccato Originale line is quite ok but nothing as spectacular as some of the names of the fragrances indicates. All the first three tested fragrances have a cold (not Cantaride which is warm), almost boozy strike to them, maybe a recollection from the Pharmacy. The longevity is impressive, around 24h for all four fragrances. Taken as a whole, my impression from sampling three the Peccato Originales is that the house have some own characteristic even of beeing one in the crowd of new fragrancehouses which have flooded the market during the latest years.

Perris Monte Carlo - Santal du Pacifque EDP & Extrait

Picture: Staute of Ganesha in sandalwood
Photo by Ricce
Wikimedia commons 

The Santal du Pacifque duo (Edp & Extrait) was released 2016 together with the Absolue d'Osmanthus duo from monegasque perfumhouse Perris Monte Carlo. Both are a part of a range of perfumes which presents  "singlenotes" in different settings and interpretations. Here is my previous reviews of the line.

Picture: Santal du Pacifique EDP
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Santal du Pacifique starts with a warm, sparkling, transparent sandalwood. with a prominent fignote. I think fig is a part of sandalwood as it's present also in for example By Kilian Sacred Wood  which is the sandalwood fragrance which is most similar to Santal du Pacifique from what I come to think of when wearing Santal du Pacifique especially in the Edp concentration. The Edp concentration is woodier and denser than the Extrait which emphasizes the flowery and light spicy aspects of sandalwood. Both versions lacks the cocoa accent which is present in sandalwoodfragranceas as Sacred Wood and Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule and are therefore lighter in apperance. The Edp is deeper, warm, smooth woody as one can imagine the scent of a piece of polished sandalwood in the sunset, warmed by the sun during the day. There are also darker, a bit pleasant dirty barnyardnotes glimpsing from the depts of the Edp contrasting the fresh sandalwood. In the later stages the SdP Edp reminds me lot of Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore Edt but less green.As the latter has sandalwood as a prominent note beside the vetiver, that's not surprising especially as both fragrances has the similar tonality on the fragrance notescale. When it comes to the Extrait this version,as mentioned above, is more of a arier, soft woody floral with some warm dry salty, spicy elements. In the middlenotes there are also contrasting notes of a damp vegetation, in the same good way as the barnyardnotes in the Edp. A hint of the figgy note persist duting the whole dry down of the Extrait and contributes to a seaish impression and the overall impression is that the Extrait has some similarities with Hermès Epice Marine even if less spicy.

Picture: Santal du Pacifique Extrait
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Santal du Pacifique is a versatile, casual elegant and comforting fragrace which could be worn year around. It's unisex even if the Edp probably will attract men more as it's less flowery and more woody. The Edp has medium sillage and the Extrait is close. Longevity for the Edp is over 12h and the Extrait almost for a day.
A clean and pared down contemporary sandalwood which smells natural and not of perfumery.

Rating: 5

Notes: Sandalwood, floral notes

5 fragrances for Easter 2017

Picture: Violets in the garden April 10, 2017
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Easter is here and so finally the spring, even if some snow isn't unusual around 1 May but it doesn't last then.


Fragrances for Easter for me are almost always from the following groups: Gourmand (reminding of the food especially the sweets for Easter), Incense (reminding of the religious background to the testive) and floral green (reminding of the vegetation of spring with crispy bulbflowers and violets). This year I am not going to be that structured, below my impressions of some fragrances I like and which I've worn more than once the latest months.

Picture: Marconi 3
Photo: PR Profumi del Forte (c)

Marconi 3 (Profumi del Forte): This is among the cosiest and most comforting fragrances I've ever worn. In the same time Marconi 3 has an vintage elegance, a skilful blended oriental-gourmand-chypre styled fragrance with prominent vanilla, spices and patchouly. Smooth and addictive, it always renders compliments. I'm not sure if Marconi 3 is still in the PdF line since they have switched to a new design of the bottles. I'm so glad that I bought a tester of Marconi 3 before it's (eventually) gone.

Picture: Musst de Cartier Gold
Photo: PR Cartier (c)

Musst de Cartier Gold (Cartier): A hidden gem, probably missunderstood, as it could be bought quite cheap from discounters. Gold is Cartier inhouse perfumer Mathilde Laurents interpretation of the classic Musst de Cartier (Edp I'll say as my Edt from the 90s is more herbal and with a light band aid note) and Musst is fully recognized, at least in the second part of the fragrance. The beginning is greener, sunnier and lighter, and the whole fragrance is sort of a luminous "sunny day" version of the darker and heavier "sunset" variety Musst Edp. Musst Gold is an elegant floral-oriental with the characteristic comforting vanillanote which is also present in Musst.

Picture: Sheiduna
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

Sheiduna (Puredistance): Sheiduna only gets better with more wearings. It's a beautiful perfum, which conveys the warm impression of "sunset over the desert dunes". It's dry and spicy, mixed with some of the pleasureable patchouly "old, dusty books note" with hints of dark roses, anchored in balsamic, ambery depts. It has a comforting elegance and is delightful to wear.

Picture: Bracken Woman
Photo: PR Amouage (c)

Bracken Woman (Amouage): This is a very nice surprise from Amouage. A sort of floral, green fougere for women, even if it's unisex IMO. It's a bit strange and I can imagine to some noses, off putting as it has an almost chemical vibe which occurs now and then under the dry down. Bracken remins med of fern, moss, moist vegetation contrasted with berries and tiny little pale flowers in a forest in the early springtime. Excellent fragrance.

Picture: L'Attesa
Photo: PR Masque (c)

L'Attesa (Masque): Finally I've tested it, one of 2016 cult fragrances. And L'Attesa is (like most Masque fragrance) very good. It's a dry iris, not the roty carrot varity nor the flowery version, and has a very realistic sort of clean lipsticknote, the best lipticknote I've smelled so far. There is also an wheat or beernote in L'Attesa, a note which is also present in Vero Profumo Kiki Extrait and in a sweeter context in Mancera Roses Vanille. Not surprising, Luca Maffei is the perfumer of this stunning fragrance.

Soon Easter....

Picture: In the painting "Die Lebensstufen" (The stages of life)
Caspar David Friedrich (1774-1840) has painted a swedish flag in the hands
of his children Gustav Adolf and Agnes Adelheid (in centrum of the picture). 

Today the traditional "Scents for Easter" post was planned. As I have a bad cold there was no energy nor inspiration for writing. Of course the terrible terror attack here in Stockholm didn't boost the energy either. All thoughts to the victims, among them an eleven year old girl on her way home from school for the Easter Holiday.......it's so sad and terrifying .

A post will probably show up on Thursday or Friday instead.

Carner Barcelona - Rose & Dragon

Picture: Saint George and the Dragon (1432-35)
Painting by Rogier van der Weyden (1399-1464)
Wikiart.com

Rose & Dragon is the third creation in the luxury, well crafted Black Collection from Carner Barcelona. Rose & Dragon is inspired from the legend of Saint George who saved the princess from the dragon. From the dragons blood, a rosebush with dark red roses grew.

And that one can imagine: Rose & Dragon is a thick, dark, rosy, spicy potion, resting over an animalic, soft leathery dept. The fragrance is sweetened with the todays it-note in contrasting leather or other dark, rough notes: Sweet berries as raspberrys and strawberrys, which could also be found in for example Masque Russian Tea, Tom Ford Tuscan Leather and Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather (not mentioned among the notes in the latter but I can smell it). Rose & Dragon has some similarities in style with these fragrance but is rosier, more animalic and spicy. It is also sweeter, has a certain liqueurish vibe, is much more deep and mysterious. When it comes to the latter; Rose & Dragon delivers the same mysticism as another dark and deep rose, Frapin Nevermore, even if that spicy rose interpretation is almost dry and less sweet than Rose & Dragon.
To my note Rose & Dragon is also the most feminine of the three fragrances in the Black Collection and also more feminine than the fragrances mentioned above. A more feminine dark and mysterious rose I come to think of when wearing Rose & Dragon is Parfumerie Générale Isparta.

Picture: Rose & Dragon
PR: Carner Barecelona (c)

As apprehensible from all associations mentioned above, Rose & Dragon isn't anything new or groundbreaking but it's a very well crafted and smooth blended fragance, one of the very best in this genre. With such heavy ingredients there is always a risk that a fragrance becomes cloying, harsh and unstable, especially if cheaper ingredients are used. Rose & Dragon is avoiding all such mistakes, it is top notch.

Wearing Rose & Dragon is a pleasure and the day is filled with constant wrist sniffing. It's wearable also for elegant evening but should'nt be restricted for such occasions. It's a quite linear fragrance and one can enjoy its mysterious and beautiful accords almost all at the same time. Longevity is about 24h and sillage is medium.
Rose & Dragon is my favorite from the Black Collection, an excellent example of the dark, deep, mysterious sort of rosefragrance which I love.

Rating: 5

Notes: Saffron, cumin, wild strawberry, cinnamon, bulgarian rose, turkish rose, honey, incense, castoreum, leather, labdanum, amber

Carner Barcelona - Black Calamus

Picture: Acorus Calamus
Köhler Medizinal Planzen
from Wikipedia

Black Calamus is the second fragrance I'm testing from the intriguing Carner Barcelona Black Collection.
And this one (unfortunately as this is expensive stuff) also turned out to be a winner.

I can read that the Calamus plant is growing in damp conditions and I have probably seen it myself in some fen in the wood unaware of what plant it is. I also read that the root has a very special aromatic, bitter, sharp and spicy taste and I can imagine that when wearing the concentrated and multifacetted fragrance Black Calamus. Black Calamus starts woody and in the same time sort of fresh, like some stiff, crispy, thick leaves growing in a chilly, moisty surrounding paird with the fresh smell of juniper wood. The pepper is (thankfully) very well balanced and adds a natural sparkle to the creation. When Black Calamus dries further on resisns and balsams softening the fragrance and takning it to darker depths, still with a distinct woody background where a touch of oud inteacts and creates an oriental twist. Black Calamus is comforting to wear but still an interesting fragrance, there are new twists on the theme, featuring different accords, during the dry down. It's really a dark fragrance but not sad, thick or cloying. Even if not groundbreaking, this dark woody style is well estabilshed since years, Black Calamus a real pleasure to wear. Compared to some other fragrances from the dark aromatic woody category, Balck Calamus is darker, more balsamic, resinious and a bit sweeter and spicier than: Robert Piguet Bois Noir which has a similar theme but is situated higher on the perfume "octaves scale" and Ramón Monegal Dry Wood which is lighter, brigheter, drier with a bit mossy soap added to the super dry wood. Robert Piguet Oud is another fragrance I come to think of when wearing Black Calamus, RP Oud also starts with a cold impression.

Picture: Black Calamus
Photo: PR Carner Barcelona (c)

Black Calamus is an elegant, smooth interpretation of the dark woody style. There are no harsh edges, it is well blended, smooth and comforting. Perfect for colder months but I think it will flourish also in summer evenings. Black Calmus is unisex, longevity is great, traces are left after 24 h and sillage is medium to high, this one shouldn't be applied heavy, it's very concentrated.

Rating: 5

Notes: Calamus, black pepper, coriander, papyrus, labdanum, osmanthus, turkish rose, vanilla, agarwood (oud), incense, juniper

Carner Barcelona - Sandor 70's

Picture: Sandor 70's
Photo: PR Carner Barcelona (c)

Last year, Carner Barcelona launched a luxury sub-line, named Black Collection. There are three fragrances up to day, very well made and they all smell very pleasant. First out for review is the suede-booze-tabbacco Sandor 70's.

Sandor 70's starts with the soft suede character which is characteristic for the whole dry down of the fragrance. First the suede is paired  with an almost caramelized, round boozy accord with tobacco where also dark, dried fruits like in Serge Lutens Boxeuses are hidden. It's like resting in a comfortable leathery clubchair, reading the newspaper in the lounge of a venerable gentlemans club even if Sandor 70's is inspired of one of the most iconic bars of the 70’s in Barcelona so maybe the chair should be a bit more contemporary in style. There are also an intriguing contrast from emerging from the depts of the fragrance, hints of something animalic, furry reminding me of the horsey aspect of Rania J. Oud Assam but the intepretation is more polished and quiet  in Sandor 70's. In the middlenotes there is also a glimps of the pleasant "dust on a lit bulb" which is more prominent in another leather gem of 2016 Téo Cabanel Kasar as also in the opening of Mona di Orios first fragrance Carnation. The basenotes of Sandor 70's is dominated by an extreamly pleasant accord, smooth, balsamic, fresh leathery/tobacco with a balancing note of patchouli. The vanilla is not present as a single note but I can imagine it softens and fills out the other notes.

Picture: Sandor 70's
Photo: PR Carner Barcelona (c)

Taken as a whole Sandor 70's is a multifacetted fragrance, mostly linear in construction but still an intriguing compostion. It's very comforting, almost relaxing and very wearable, with absolutely no harsh edges. It's perfect for the colder seasons, for daytime or evening. Sandor 70's is unisex in style, maybe a tad more masculine, Mr Parfumista likes this much. The sillage is somewhere between close and medium and longevity about 12h+.

Those who likes fragrances in the style of for example Puredistance Black, Parfums MDCI Cuir Garamante, By Kilian Back to Black and Huitème Art Liqueur Charnelle should definitly try Sandor 70's.

Rating: 5

Notes: Suede, bergamot, jasmine, osmanthus, rose, tobacco, clary sage, cedar, peru balsam, vanilla, leather, patchouli, vetiver, incense, oakmoss

Parfums de Nicolaï - Rose Royale

Picture: Parfums de Nicolaï Rose Royale,
resting in the snow,
 reminding of the coming Spring
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Rose Royale is a celebration to spring, launched by Parfums de Nicolaï to Valentines Day 2017. This (pink IMO) rose soliflore is inspired of the rosegardens of Palais Royale in the center of Paris.

Rose Royale starts pink rosy with natural smelling fruity accents. The fruity notes are somehow almost dry in appreance and there is nothing too sweet or artifical about it. I especially recoginze the note of passionfruit but lighter and not as prominent as in for example Vero Profumo Rozy Edp or in the tribute to the passionfruit flower from Maître Parfumeur et Ganiter Fraîche Passiflore. In the topnotes also there is also a contrasting glimpse of the fresh, tangy nuance of blackcurrant as also the bergamot which provides the fragrance with a particular chic style. Coriander also brings a light green, refreshing spicy touch to Rose Royale, which togther with the bergamot, provides a slight retro vibe or perhaps it's more appropritate to call it timless.

Picture: Rose Royale
Photo: Parfums de Nicolaï (c)

Rose Royale is all about the rose flower itself, with no interference of stems and greenery. Its about the natural fresh smell of the velvet smooth pink rose petals. It's a bright but not at all shrill rose, it is happy and uplifting when waiting for spring in the last days of the winter. When Rose Royale dries further down, I can also recognize a more severe side of the fragrance, there are snapshots from a darker dept where traces of an accord familiar to the metallic, cold, bloody rose of Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin are hiding. This gives an intresting twist to this over all polite, refreshing, pink, rose. The roses of Rose Royale resting in a elegant, well balanced musky smooth, warm, woody base where also a very light immortelle sparkles..

Beeing an "easy to go" EDT aimed for spring, Rose Royale has a good longevity if liberally applied. I can smell traces on skin after more then 12 hours. It's a very wearble daytime fragrance both for work and casual. The sillage is somewhere between close and medium.

Rose Royale is something to tray for those who like a uncomplicated but still wellconstructed, rose soliflore as for example Annick Goutal Rose Pompon, Maison Francis Kurkdijan À la Rose and Téo Cabanel Early Roses.

Rating: 5

Notes: Blackcurrant buds, passionfruit, bergamot, coriander, rose, ambrette, immortelle, sandalwood, guaiac wood, musk

BeauFort London - 1805 Tonnerre, Coeur de Noir, Vi et Armis & Lignum Vitae

Picture: PR BeauFort (c)

The house of BeauFort London is inspired from the naval past of Great Britans as also the historical merchant shipping. The fragrances are very special and intriguing, they recreates the scents of the past, exactly as one can imagine, for example the smell from the battle of Trafalger. As mentioned in the review of Fathom V the first three fragrances from BeauFort which constitutes the collection "Come Hell or High Water" are true artistic craftwork, a sort of fragrance installations, to inhale the fumes triggers the fantsy and transforms the wearer to the past. The two latest fragrances, Fathom V and Lignum Vitae are not that extreme, perfectly wearable and also transform the wearer back in time in the seafaring milieu. This is fragrances every Parfumista should try, at least just for the experience of perfume as an art.

Picture: 1805 Tonnerre
Photo: PR BeauFort London (c)

1805 Tonnerre - The scents form a wooden sailing warship twohundred years ago. Inspired of the battle of Trafalger. Dark, salty oak, sharp tar, the scent of smoked Baltic herring (the special one from the swedish north east coast).Salted fish in barrels rotting seaweed, smoke, metallic notes of steel and blood,  gunpowder. Very intriguing and vivid perfume.

Coeur de Noir - Starts very powerful with the fumes from black, heated tar. A short glimpse of the smoked herring of 1805 Tonnere above, and smoke, like the smell of smoke in a moist environment, as from fires on the docks . Later Coeur de Noir calms and a sweet almost minty element joins the composition which now is very indoor with a cold inky note appearing together with a cold tobacco and leather accord.

Vi et Armis - Here is also the BeaFort signum, the smell from tar, dry and salt licorice. The opening is very pungent, almost agressive and very masculine in style. Later the scent of burnt rubber appears together with a very light sweetness, as if the licorice no changed to the sweeter variety. Reminds me a bit of Chamens Party by Honoré de Prés and with the burnt rubber texture of Bulgari Black.

Lignum Vitae - The scent of a crispy cracker or cake contrasted by the light scent of a mixed, airy, flower bouquet composed of flowers in cold light pastel pink-apricot shades. All surrounded by an seaish, slight salty and sandy, airy accord with a sort of acid, citric note.

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the samples for test and review

BeuFort London - Fathom V

Picture: Paiting by Albert Bierstadt
(1830-1902)

Fathom V is one of the (to my nose) two "wearable" fragrances from the line of the niche house BeauFort London, the other is Lignum Vitae. The first three releases ( 1805 Tonnerre, Vi et Armis, Coeur de Noir) from the house are very intriguing but to my nose more of fragrance artworks or scent installations than perfumes which could be worn in public. More about the other BeauForts will follow in next week.

 Fathom V starts chilly, crispy, green with a smell similar to narcissus but a bit more flowery, lily is mentioned among the ingredients. There are also green coniferous elements, like fir and juniper. Soon also a cold, earthy smell emerges, like the just thawed earth in late winter/early spring. This accord is contrasted with a glimpse of an animalic note which slight resembles the smell of cat fur. After a while a windy element appears in Fathom V, it smells like someone is airing out an attic closet in an old house by the seaside during a cold, windy day early in the spring. Something in the concept/texture but not in smell reminds me of a outdoor variation of Parfumerie Generale L'Ombre Fauve. Further on in the drydown, the fog is rolling in over the cost from the open sea. Salty elements together with seaweeds and algaes appears in the blend, and later also a hearbal almost minty note, shows up, clearing the fragrance up from the fog. The salt and mint slightly reminds me of another Perfumerie Generale  Harmatan Noir and for the airy salty vibe also Laboratorio Olfattiva Salina but Salina is warm in texture. The icy cold and dry lily is present during the whole dry down of Fanthom V and as it settles, there is also a moisty, mossy element supporting the green herbal accord sweeping over the scent of  fresh soil.

Picture: Fathom V
Photo: PR BeauFort London (c)

Fathom V, like all the BeauForts, is very intriguing and creates vivid fantasies and pictures for the wearer, in this case more pleasant ones compared to the first fragrance trio. It's my favorite from the house and I really appreciate it's shifts in different moods and nuances. The fragrance is an outdoorfragrance in the same spirit, but not the same smell, as the also earthy, early in the spring/late in the winter, fragrance Onda from Vero Profumo. That even if Onda to my nose is describing this season in the inland and the scents of Fathom V is from the seaside.  Fathom V is unisex, maybe a tad more feminine because of the lily and that the herbal element isn't the typical, harsh aromatic type. Instead it's sort of soft and smooth herbal which is unusual and Fathom V therefore is wearable fougere for woman. The fragrance is perfect for daytime wearing in late winter and early spring but could be worn year around. Sillage is medium and longevity very good about 24h.

One of the best fragrances in 2016 IMO, if I had sampled it then, it would be among the top three.

Rating: 5

Notes: Juniper berries, tangerine, black currant, green notes, soil tincture, thyme, lily, jasmine, ylang-ylang, ginger, cumin, black pepper, mimosa, patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, salt, incense, atlas cedar, amber

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to review

Anatole Lebreton - Grimoire

Picture: Grimoire
Photo: PR Anatole Lebreton (c)

Grimoire is the fifth fragrance in bretonic perfumer Anatole Lebretons robust perfumeline "Parfums de Liberté". For reviews of the earlier releases from the house click here.

Grimoire  starts with distinctive green incense, which is the domiatning note in the whole dry down of the fragrance. The green incense is warm and has a resinous texture. In the backgroumd there is also an accompanying, sharp compact and deep citric note which also is green in appreance, probably the bergamot. In the opening there is also a blast of cummin, which for a while creates an almost sweaty impression but in a nice, horsy way. There are also herbal notes, which are leaning to the dry almost dusty side and conveys the
image of an old half-binding book with its old, dry musty paper and its dry leather.The base also shows some mossy, woody notes.

The overall impression is green, resinious incense, a fragrance with the robust, rual character which is the trademark for the Lebreton style. Grimoire is a fragrance of it's own even if it reminds me to some extent of Parfumerie Générale Bois Blond which lacks the incense but has a similar texture and the rual, natural character. When it comes to the green incense, Grimoire has similarities with Andy Tauers Reverie au Jardin even if the greenery in the Tauer is more sappy and even more outdoor, like resting in the green grass, Grimore is more like reading the old book sitting on the terrace surrounded by the greenery. As a fragrance in the outdoor category,one can perfectly imagine a relaxing stay in the countryside wearing Grimoire. Other fragrances which conveys that relaxed outdoor feeling (even if not smelling alike) are for example Pafumerie Générale Papyrus de Ciane and Parfums de Nicolaï Week End a Deauville.

Grimoire is an intense perfume, it is strong with 24h longevity and should be applied carefully. It's sort of
addictive, the more I try it, the more I like it. Grimoire is a daytime casual, fragrance, unisex, leaning to the
masculine side. It's suitable year around except when warm in summer. For that season there is better to wear the more hayish, flowery, green L'Eau de Merzhin also from Lebreton.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, patchouli, musk, basil, moss, cedar, lavender, elemi, olibanum, cumin

Neela Vermeire Creations - Rahele

Picture: India map
Photo: (c) FOTOLIA, MOONRISE /PR Neela Vermeire Creations

The inspiration to the latest Neela Vermeire Creations fragrance is according to the house as follows:            "Rahele (traveller) is an ode to exotic travel, an olfactory journey in the company of 17th Century French visitors to the East. Tavernier...Bernier...Thévenot...the names still resonate in the imagination of armchair travellers today, as each man left a detailed record of his adventures, showing us Mughal-ruled India through a European lens." Rahele is created by Bertrand Duchaufour as rest of the fragrances from Neela Vermeire.

The first accord reminds me of an up scale version of Lalique Flora Bella which is also creation of Bertrand Duchaufour .Then when notes of cedar and cardamom appears, I come to think of a less sweet and much more floral variation of Lubin Inedite. As Rahele dries further down it becomes more bright, floral, rose-violet is prominent at first than round, fruity flowery notes of osmanthus appears. The osmanthus note is luminous even if thick and velvet smooth in texture. Here the impression of Inedite diverges where Inedite takes a woody-spicy-gourmand and darker path. Rahele takes a different direction, it's sunny and warm, lush and juicy and in the same time calming and refreshing, in its floral-fruity glory. Raheles floral-fruity accord smells natural, there are no cloying, syntetic candysmelling sweet fruity notes. Probably most of the frutiy sweetness comes from the osmanthus which in this creation is not dilluted as in most other fragrances featuring osmanthus. As Rahele dries down, the similarities to Inedite reappears in the basenotes when the elements of cedar and cardamom steps forward again. There is also a fresh mossy element which anchors the fragrance.  

Picture: Osmanthusflower
Photo: (c) FOTOLIA, CHUNGKING/PR Neela Vermeire Creations

Rahele is not oriental as the previous Neela Vermeire fragrances, it's a beautful floral fragance with some elements of a contemporary interpretation of chypre. Rahele is a terrific fragrance for the coming late winter and early spring when looking forward for the coming brighter days. It's a joyful cretation equally perfect for a day at work or for the weekend. To me it's more but also brave men can wear this. The longevity is good, more then 12h, silage is medium. 

Picture: Rahele
Photo: (c) M. TASSY/PR Neela Vermeire Creations

Rahele is a great choice for those who like joyful, lush, luminous boquets in the style (not the same smell) of Téo Cabanel Lace Garden, Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia and Le Galion Iris and La Rose.

Rating: 5

Notes: Mandarine, cardamom, cinnamon, violet leaf, oamanthus, rose, magnolia, jasmine, iris, violet, cedarwood, sandalwood, oakmoss, patchouli

Jehanne Rigaud - Vanille Blonde

Picture: Milou, here in Tintin au Congo,
a main character in Hergé:s (George Remi)
"Les aventures de Tintin"
Borrowed from Tintinmilou 

Vanille Blonde is the fourth fragrance I've tested from french perfumehouse Jehanne Rigaud. The fragrances from the house are priceworthy, there are other nichehouses with similar quality of their output which charge significantly more.

Vanille Blonde starts gourmand vanillic as a fresh, warm, just from the owen, soft vanilla cake. It's not the boozy type nor the woody type of vanilla, it's just perfectly gourmand and reminds me in its first accords of Annick Goutal Les Absolus Vanillle Charnelle but soon becomes denser and sweeter than the former which is light, fluffy and airy. Vanille Blonde is quite linear but deepens and becomes a bit darker in the basenotes. The musky note in the base is the same as in the other Jehanne Rigauds. It higlights the other notes in the same time as it adds a vintagestyled, on the verge to dirty, musky character to the fragrance. The vanilla in the later stages are like caramel and has left the cake impression from the topnotes. In the middle- and basenotes Vanille Blonde reminds me of Molinard Vanille (old version in the blue bottle).

Picture: Vanille Blonde
Photo: PR Jehanne Rigaud (c)

Vanille Blonde is a good, a bit rough, basic vanilla which I can imagine it's good to layer dry and heavy woody scents with. Not a complex or particularly intriguing fragrance but cosy and easy to wear especially during cold winter days and evenings. Unisex with a close sillage and a longevity for more than a day.

When it comes to the Tintin characters which I have combined to the Jehanne Rigaud fragrances, Vanille Blonde of course is the constant companion to Tintin; the quick, clever and brave foxterrier Milou, though but sweet.

Rating: 3

Notes: Vanilla, sugar, star anise, benzoin, musk

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Jehanne Rigaud - Imperial Poudré

Picture: Bianca Castafiore
"Milanese Nigthingale" apperant in several albums
of  "Les aventures de Tintin" created by Hergé
(Georges Remi)
Picture borrowed from Comicvine

Jehanne Rigaud is perfumehouse based in Grasse. The inspiration comes from the treasure of vintage perfumes. The style of the house reminds me of Les Nereides, which also provides a range of robust, vintagestyled perfumes. There are also connections to the Oriza L.Legrand style even if find that house a bit less loud and maybe a bit more refined. Imperial Poudré is the first Jehanne Rigaud perfume I've tested.

Imperial Poudré starts with a blast of powder, it's dry and gunpowdery in style and applied with a gigant powderpuff with creamcolored fluff. The dry gunpowder smell reminds me of the dry gunpowder in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Ambre. After a while flowery elements balanced by a delicate, a bit earthy but flowery iris shows up, reminding me of Lorenzo Villoersi Teint de Neige, soon also sweet almond and warm heliotrophe appears. The more Imperial Poudré dries down, the more putty and moist in texture the powder emerges. A big retrostyled musky note supports and creates dept to the other notes during the whole dry down even if more present the longer Imperial Poudré has developed, it dominates in the latest stage. In the basenotes also an intriguing jasmine and rose combo appears which smells clearly vintage, it's a distinct animalic touch in the accord, probably the musk and jasmine contributes to that. In this stage I associate Imperial Poudré to Oriza L.Legrand Jardins d'Armride even if the special accord described is missed in the latter.

Picture: Imperial Poudré
Photo: PR Jehanne Rigaud (c)

Imperial Poudré is a "grand" fragrance, a perfume that makes a statement. It's an evening perfume, a perfume for a ball or the Opera, I can imagine an opera diva wearing this, Bianca Castafiore is the incarnation of Imperial Poudré. Of course one can wear it during daytime but than has to be very careful in application, a litte goes for long. It's a fragrance for the cold months, I suspect it could be cloying in the summer, except for a really cold early summer evening of the swedish type. Sillage is big and the longevity for over 24h. Its a very feminine perfume.

Imperial Poudré is an extreme fragrance of a type which almost isn't produced today. It's as Imperial Poudré originates from another century, a batch was forgotten in some warehouse and now showing up on the market. It's pushy on the verge to vulgar, not in the trashy but more in the nouveau riche way. Imperial Poudré definitly has its own personality and stands out from the crowd, which I really appreciate. Unfortunately Imperial Poudré dosen't mix well with my chemisty and therefore doesn't reach the highest score in my subjective rating.

Rating: 4

Notes: Ylang-ylang, iris, vanille, almond, powder, florals, musk, jasmine, rose, heliotrope

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Jehanne Rigaud - Ambre Obscure

Picture: Captain Haddock,
from "Les Aventures de Tintin"
Author: Hergé (George Remi),
picture borrowed from pinterest

Ambre Obscure is a fragrance from the relatively unknown and a bit under cover perfume house Jehanne Rigaud from Grasse. As I understand it, the house had a range of fine fragrances during the 1920s-1930s and the following decades but then focused on to produce essences, ambiences, basic colognes and eaux as also producing for other perfumehouses. In one website I can recognize bottles with the same shape and labels as some editions from the house of Les Nereides. As mentioned in the earlier post about Imperial Poudré, I smell similarities in style between Les Nereides and Jehanne Rigaud. maybe this is not a coincidence. Jehanne Rigaud, just as Les Nereides, issues really priceworthy perfumes, compared both to mainstream and niche releases. The whole Jehanne Rigaud line is avaible here at top notch niche shop Fragrance & Art.

Ambre Obscur starts and proceeds very familiar to me: I can smell an old favorite, the early 1980s oriental Prelude from Balenciaga. It's almost the same vintage smelling amber, deep and multifacetted containing notes  similar to old sherry oakbarrels.It's like looking in a caledeoscope with changing patterns in brown and ruby red nuances. As Ambre Obscur dries further down, a fine jasmine blends delicately with the dark, deep amber and balsamic notes from the basenotes. Patchouli is also present as a supporting note, well balanced and it doesn't take over the composition, the patchouli just enhances the vintage feeling. Ambre Obscur is slight powdery in texture but not at all as powdery as the powder bomb from Jehanne Rigaud Imperial Poudré. In its later stage, Amber Obscur reminds me of the discontinued gem from Estée Lauder Youth Dew Amber Nude and there is also similarities with Aramis JHL at least the vintage version I have on hand.

To me who is a bit tired of all the light and airy contemporary ambers released in later years, Ambre Obscur is a very pleasant surprise, dark, deep and vintage in style. This is a fragrance for those who wants more body in their ambers and I think those who like fragrances as Rania J. Ambre Loup and Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Doré (with patchouli in Ambre Obscur instead of oud as in Ambre Loup and Ambre Doré), also will appreciate Ambre Obscur.

Picture: Ambre Obscur
Photo: PR Jehanne Rigaud (c)

Ambre Obscur is perfect for autumn, winter and early, chilly spring. It's also a good eveningfragrance and it's very comforting to wear for example by the fireplace a dark, snowy winterevening, Ambre Obscur is unisex even if leaning slight to the feminine side IMO. Despite that I couldn't resist to continue using a Tintin character, in this case Captain Haddock, to illustrate Ambre Obscur. I think he fits the bill as the fragrance has some dark, boozy elements..

Taken as a whole: Ambre Obscur is a very well blended, genuine, a bit wild and untamed, dark amber. Dark as its namn implies but it could, and not the new Annick Goutal amber, also be named Ambre Sauvage.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, orange, jasmine, amber, labdanum, vanilla, vetiver, patchouli, musk

Jehanne Rigaud - Patchouli Premier

Picture: Tintin
From the album "Tintin au Congo" (1931)
p.55, drawing Hergé (George Remi) (c)
borrowed from Tintin.com

Patchouli Premier from Grasse perfumehouse (and scent supplier) Jehanne Rigaud features, as the name indicates: Patchouli.

When applying Patchouli Premier my first thought is: This is Patchouli Antique from Les Nereides. It's the same rough, dark, dusty old book note as the latter. Now my speculations in earlier posts about a connection between Les Nereides and Jehanne Rigaud fragrances, maybe JR is the producer for both, seems even more possible. When Patchouli Premier (PP) reaches the middlenotes it departs partly form Patchouli Antique (PA). Whereas PA continues in its rough, dusty, slight fuggy, like an attic in an old house accords, interpreted in a positive way, PA smells really intriguing, PP enters another route as it becomes, lighter, brisker, sort of outdoorsy in style. It highlights the herbal and leafy aspects of how I imagine fresh patchouli could smell. When comparing to PA, I'm refering to the old version, I havn't tested the later versions in the new, different styled, bottles.

Picture: Les Nereides Patchouli Antique
old bottle at the top, a newer version below.
Photo: PR Les Nereides (c)

As the middle accord also the rest of PP smells. It's a good classic, basic patchouli of the herbal, not the ambery kind, which doesn't adds anything new to the genre. On the other hand it's a perfect companion when one need something simple, woody, outdoorsy refreshing, both for casual and for work. Patchoulis in this "fresh" style is relaxing to wear during the summer in particular sunny and windy warm days, but not in the worst heat wave. PP as slmost all patchs in this style is perfectly unisex. Silage of PP is close, longevity for at least a day.

Picture: Patchouli Premier
Photo: PR Jehanne Rigaud (c)

As the two earlier reviewed Jehanne Rigauds, Imperial Poudré and Ambre Obscur, Patchouli Premier also could be associated to a "Les aventures de Tintin" character, in this case the protagonist himself: Tintin. A lively, brisk patchuli like PP is perfect for the changeing existence of the character, one day among papers and prints in the newspaper desk, the other in the middle of the jungle.

Those who like simple and genuine patchuli fragrances as for example Etro Patchouly and Molinard Patchouli will probably also apperciate Patchouli Premier.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Patchouli, cedar, myrrh, myrtle, sandalwood, oakmoss, vanilla, musk

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Deco London - Quick reviews 2(2)

Deco London is a fragrancehouse which debuted with six fragrances in 2015, three for women and three for men. Deco London pays homage to the golden age of perfumery and elegant, flamboyant 1920s London. Here some thoughts about the gentlemens trio:

Ernest: Aromatic everyday, classic fresh with a contrasting, slight oriental depth which adds a certain balsamic sweetness to the aromatic structure. Lavander, vetiver, different woods, leather, amberand vanilla. Reminds me a tad of a oriental interpretation of Caron Pour un Homme but without the metallic almost bloody accord which is present in the latter. Ernest is a versatile, daytime fragrance in a timeless style.

Picture: Deco London Lawrence
Photo: PR Deco London

Lawrence: Smells like a warm bubblebath, which reminds Mr Parfumista of the classic Badedas bathoil. There is also something dry and salty, which is distictive for the fragrance. There is also a light spicy, tangy lime, blended with white flowers, lavender, vetiver and some greenery. First I come to think of a cologne dominated by orangeflowers (for example Les Colognes Néroli from Annick Goutal), when inhaling I can smell nothing of the orangeflowernote, but the structure/texture is similar. A special fragrance with a vintage but in the same time timless aura. The most intriguing in the Deco London collection IMO and a Mr Parfumista favorite.

Quentin: This one is close to good ol' Givenchy Gentleman at least in the earlier stage. Starts with a dark green mossy patchouli, just like Gentleman. After a while the development of Quentin takes a different path. Where Gentleman focuses on the dark, moisty moss, backed-up with a dark herbal patchouli, Quentin goes to radiate just a herbal patchouli, first with hints of old books as a tame version of Les Néiréides Patchouli Antique and later transformed to a nice slight soapy texture. A nice moderated patchouli, a unisex fragrance IMO.

To summon up the Deco line, three-four of them are similar to, or in some cases (Loretta & Millicent), very close to already excisting designer fragrances. Loretta & Millicent to my nose are gentler, more finetuned but not as distinctive as their designer equals.

Deco London is avaible from Fragrance&Art.

Deco London - Quick reviews 1(2)

Deco London is a fragrancehouse which debuted with six fragrances in 2015, three for women and three for men. Deco London pays homage to the golden age of perfumery and elegant, flamboyant 1920s London. Here som thoughts about the feamle trio:

Constance: A sweet, balsamic, musky oriental with some flowery notes. Reminds me of candy; caramel toffee to be precise. In style it has similarities with Prada Candy but more dense, sweet and less distinctive than Candy. Prada Candy has the typical chilly, almost of refreshing Prada base (similar to the basenotes of Infusion d'Iris)which brightens that fragrance, Constanse is solid in texture and is more average in its sweet oriental style than the Prada. Anyway a good oriental, balancing to the gourmand territory.

Picture: Deco London Millicent
Photo: PR Deco London

Loretta: This Loeretta is far away from the dark, plummy tuberose of Andy Tauer. The Deco Loretta is bright, chocolate-boozy, like white, icy, booze in a wide cocktail glass. There is also a flowery element which I percieve as lily of the valley, both the flower and the greenery even if the notelist mentions orangeflower, osamnathus, rose and jasmine. To me Loretta smells like a lighter, brighter and more flowery version of the chocolate-boozy, icy Notorious from Ralph Lauren. Notorious is bold, dark and dense in texture compared to Loretta. If compared, Loretta is the spring and summerversion, whereas Notorious goes for autumn and winter.

Millicent: A superb white floral which is not surprising as Millicent smells almost identical to a real favorite orangeblossom of me, Elie Saab Le Parfum (Edp) at least in the top and basenotes. In the middle, Millicent is at tad more of a general "white floral bouquet" even if the orangeblossom dominates in this stage too. Millicent is less sweet/thick and more spritzy/mineral-like (like  Sauvignon blanc vs Chardonnay if related to the world of wine) than Elie Saab Le Parfum in its Edp version (havn't tested the Edt). In the basenotes of Millicent there is also a light pleasent dry a bit chalky note which smells like a sunwarmed, round, smooth stone a hot summerday. My favorite from the womens trio, very pleasant to wear.

Deco London is avaible by Fragrance & Art

Best of 2016

As earlier years I've tested just a very small fraction of the huge number of fragrance releases. So my choice of the best of 2016 comes from a small selection based on my liking.

Picture: Galop d'Hermès
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

Picture: Chanel No 5 L'Eau
Photo: PR Chanel (c)

2016 I found the most interseting, in terms of having potential to be a "classic", and to me the most memorable fragrances of the year, in the designer segment. Galop d'Hermès (pink rose embedded in fine leather) and Chanel No 5 L'Eau (an airy, less aldehydic No 5) are, even if different types of fragrances, both chic and easy to wear, contemporary and in the same time with an anchor in the heritages of the iconic and still independet houses of Hermès and Chanel. I also appreciated Hermès Eau de Rhubarbe Ecarlate very much, it seems as Christine Nagels adopted style for Hermès works for me. Another designerfragrance, even if not of the great quality of the former mentioned, that I like from this year is the asphalt flower in the night My Burberry Black. Van Cleef & Arpels Moonlight Patchouli should also be mentioned, a beautiful, contemporary, dark and in the same time sort of rosy green chypre. The comforting, creamy, bold, warm and sunny tubereuse of Tom Ford Orchid Soleil makes me happy.

Picture: Tèo Cabanel Kasar,
also together with TC Jaspé and Galop d'Hermès
the best bottles of 2016 

In 2015 there was a battle between white flowers when it came to niche. This year my niche favorite has an abstract, dusty, almost electric (like a warm, dusty old sort of  bulb) carnation flowery scent dimension together with horse, leather and a light touch of cinnamon. The fragrance is classified as masculine and is a new favorite of Mr Parfumista: Tèo Cabanel Kasar, named after one of Emperor Napoleon I:s more than 150 horses. Another horse Jaspé, is also model for another TC release of 2016, a good aromatic fragrance. The house of Tèo Cabanel was also a close contender to the number one position in best of 2015. A very close contender in 2016 is the brilliant, in quality superior, Oud Sublime from Parfums de Nicolaï. Green, dark, velvety, woody with natural Cambodian oud it's refreshing in an elegant and intriguing way.

Picture: Oud Sublime Elixir
Photo: PR Parfums d'Nicolaï (c)

Other niche fragrances that I liked very much in 2016 was in the dark, green, tangy, woody category as Parfums de Nicolaï Incense Oud  with its similarities to Oud Sublime, Maria Candida Gentile Lankaran Forest and Rrose Selavy (which resembles Galop d'Hermès a bit). I also liked Puredistance Sheiduna and Rania J. Cuir Andalou very much, both relaxing, warm, dark, embracing, spicy and oriental styled in different ways.

The to me new house that I discocvered an enjoyed in 2016 was Anatole Lebreton a line of robust, genuine "back to the roots of perfumery" fragrances.