Serge Lutens – Chypre Rouge

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Chypre Rouge created by Christopher Sheldrake 2006 is a contemporary interpretation on the classical, dark-fruity chypre theme. The fragrance starts unconventional with a topnotes loaded with cranberrynote followed by delicate notes of incense and a note similar to cumin over a base of mossy notes and some traces of incense. The dimmed incense is the note that is still there in the end of the dry down of Chypre Rouge. There is strangely also a note that reminds me of a crisp lily in the mix. I do not find Chypre Rouge particulary sweet, a common objection in reviews of the fragrance. 

Chypre Rouge is in similar style with Rochas Femme, which contains much more cumin and Annick Goutals Mon Parfum Cheri par Camille which instead is patchouli dominated but those fragrances are more distinct in appearance. Compared to them Chypre Rouge seems a little weak, with it’s lower projection and as the scent seems to fall apart fairly quickly. But Chypre Rouge  is a good alternative to the wearer who want to make a soft and smooth but in the same time uncommon olfactory statement. It’s an office friendly scent that don’t interfere with anybody (almost). Best suited to wear during the colder months.

Rating: 3

Notes: Caraway, pine tree needles, honey, beewax, jasmine, amber, patchouli, oakmoss, musk, vanilla

Royal happiness

 

Picture: H.R.H Crownprincess Victoria and H.R.H Prince Daniel

Photo and Copyright: Kungahuset.se  (Royal Court)

 

Today is a day of joy and happiness here in Sweden. Our beloved Crown Princess Couple HRH Crownprincess Victoria and HRH Prince Daniel became parents to a little princess, the futhure heir of the throne. I had already put Burberry Body on when Mr Parfumista called and told me that Prince Daniel *)  hade something to announce at 7.00 am. If I had known I would have applied something more royal to celebrate the little Princess but I think Body is quite ok as it reminds me of pink roses in a smooth and fluffy creaminess. This happening made me recapitulate which fragrances I have worn the other special days of this nice couple:

The  engagement day February 24, 2009: Guerlain L'Heure Bleue, if I had known that morning what happy news that would be delivered I would definitly chosen something else. But on the other hand, that was the first time something really happy occured when wearing L'HB, two times when I have worn it (and I don't wear it often) sad things had happen.

The wedding day June 19, 2010: As the event was well-known (to say at least :-) in advance I could prepare for a royal spritz with Montales Highness Rose.

Now we (the royalists at least) are looking forward to the baptism of the little one later this spring. And of course I'm planning to report about this event from the same olfactory perspective :-)

*) The Prince Daniel story is the Cinderella-story of the 2000s: A young energetic man raised in a middle class family in a small municipality, moves to the capital of Sweden, get educated to be a Personal Trainer, starts an exclusive gym, becomes the PT of the Crownprincess, the business grows to a several gyms, the couple have to hide from the press and in the same time try to convince the King about their love and Daniels suitability as the consort to the future queen. After eight years, 2009, they finally got the permission to marry and where engaged. But at that time Daniel was seriously ill as he from his youth had an nonfunctional kidney and the other one was deteriorated. Luckily Daniels father Olle donated a kidney and everything went well. The wedding 2010 was like a fairytale and Daniel became HRH Prince Daniel. Today he is performing very well in this very special role. Almost all (at least the roylistic) women in Sweden loves Prince D as he seems to be the most perfect, caring, secure in himself, natural, polite, chivalrous guy one can image.  

Montale - Dark Purple

Picture: Still-Life with Bouquet of Flowers and Plums,

Painting by Rachel Ruysch (1664-1750)

Royal Museum of Fine Arts of Belgium, Wikimedia commons

Montales Dark Purple created by Pierre Montale 2011 is somehow, even if it's not a dark, fruity chypre but instead a floral oriental, Montales answer to Annick Goutals Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille. Dark Purple starts in the typical bold Montale style and also remains bold during the rather linear dry down. The fragrance starts peppery, with some similarities to Dark Oud even if oud ist not mentioned among the ingredients of Dark Purple it's probably there. Then a dark plummy note glimpse, but the plum is not as deep, compex and wellrounded as in Mon Parfum Cheri..., in Dark Purple the plum is more flat and one dimensional. Dark Purple also contains a good dose of green and sparkling geranium paired with rose, to my nose a bit similar to the geranium hefty Oud Flowers. The patchouli in Dark Purple is not as predominant as in Mon Parfum Cheri...and it's of the contemporary, clean, stripped type and not the deep, dirty vintagelike patch in Mon Parfum Cheri...The rose together with geranium and musk, with an unobtrusive impact of plum, is what remains as the dominating accord as Dark Purple settles in the basenotes. In this stage Dark Purple is also reminiscent with Montales Roses Musk and this stage lasts and lasts as the truestyled Montale this fragance is.

Dark Purple is a perfume true to the Montale style and is a good choice for the colder seasons. But as it's similar to many other Montales there is no need for this if one's parfumewardrobe already contains some of the heftier ones. But for a perfumerbuyer just entering the world of Montale, Dark Purple is a good alternative in the heavier group especially to the wearer that don't like oud as a predominant note.

Rating: 4

Notes: Orange, plum, geranium, patchouli, rose, red berries, teak wood, amber, musk

By Kilian - Ambre Oud

Picture: Resiny wood. Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

By Kilian latest creation in the Arabian Nights collection Ambre Oud is a well-mannered amber composed by the (almost) housenose Calice Becker.

In the topnotes Ambre Oud starts as a relatively clean amber, followed by some traces of a light powderness. As the scent drys down it becomes a little darker and also sweeter as ther is a obvious note of a fine vanilla (like vanilla pods) in the base. The vanilla reminds me of the vanilla note in Havana Vanille by L'Artisan Parfumeur. There are also woody notes in Ambre Oud but not much oud, to my nose anyway. Maybe Ambre Oud is build among the same idea as the earlier release Incense Oud, a parfume without oud that are intended to get the olfactory image of oud. But Ambre Oud doesen't even give me that oud image as Incense Oud does.

To me Ambre Oud is a good but not groundbreaking amberperfume, wearable for most occasions during the colder months. A good choice among others for customers who are searching for an elegant basic amberperfume without oddities. It's an alternative to the likes of Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan or Ormonde Jaynes Tolu. Ambre Oud never gets as dry, fluffy and (gun)powdery as Mona di Orios Les Nombres d'Or Ambre nor dark, dusky and slight dirty as L'Ombre Fauve by Pafumerie Générale, my two favorite ambers.  

Rating: 4 +

First I rated this 3+ because I don't think it's original enough even if well balanced and of good quality. That rating made Mr Parfumista upset as he thinks Ambre Oud is a very good fragrance and deserves a rating at least as 4 or actually higher. As he is very picky about fragrances I had to reconsider my earlier rating and raise it a step. Mr Parfumistas own rating of Ambre Oud ís at least 4+. 

Notes: Amber, benzoin, vanille, cedar, laurel.

Top winterfragrances 2012

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

In the wake of the publication of the top-ten winterfragrances in all major perfumeblogs earlier this week: Here comes my humble list.

To get canditates to the list I just followed up the most used perfumes from Januari 1 until February 17. As I only have been using samples until now this year (and will for the rest of this month), the selection has been a bit limited.

Passage d'Enfer (L'Artisan Parfumeur): This lovely airy incense-lily has a relaxing effect to me. Need that in the job-overload that has been the normal state the latest months.

Baiser Volé (Cartier): My new lily favorite, crispy-clean-soft. Delightful.

Jardin Blanc (MPG): A heady white floral bouquet with hints of dirtiness lurking in the base.

Antonia (Puredistance): Flowery, green, lush, ultra-elegant bouquet. Stunning beautiful.

Kiki Edp (Vero Profumo): This "Angel Lavandula" is such a interesting blend with the odd combination of notes: Lavendel, passionflower and patchouli.

Soie Rouge (MPG): The best carnation to me so far. On the other hand, I'm no carnation lover, but this one is quite nice.

L'Eau Guerriere (PG): Bark from some exotic tree mixed with hints of green herbals and the cold leather of Helmut Langs Cuiron.

Amoureuse (DelRae Roth): Lovely, dark, dirty, deep, floral accompanied with cardamom.

Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection (ELd'O): Soapy red rosewater with peppery notes and traces of patchoulli.

Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille Edt (Annick Goutal): This dark, dusty, plummy patch is both a distinct and elegant fragrance. A real gem.

An intresting observation is that there is no obvious oriental listed. And that inspite of the fact that there has been cold wintertempratures during almost the whole observation period. This oriental-phenomena I have experienced some winters ago. Am I not an oriental person at heart? (Shudder), even if I love many orientals I sometimes find it difficult to start wearing them, have somehow to get into the "orienal-theme-mood" before I can fully appreciate them.

Erik Kormann – Eau de Fröliche

Photo: Parfumista (c)

Eau de Fröliche by the Berliner soaptrader Erik Kormann is a sweet and happy little perfume, just as it’s name reveals. Little in the meaning that it conveys the feeling of the image of the little quite Pug that is featured on the bottle.  The name perfectly matches this blend.

Eau de Fröliche is perfume that could be classified as a light gourmand. It starts with notes of a bath foam that contains sweet, but not too sweet, berry notes. Despite this, Eau de Fröliche never develops to be cloying, it avoids cross the border of smelling, too sweet, berry and chemical as for exemple Vichy Tiel’s Sirène, a fragrance that come to my mind when testing Eau de Fröliche. According to the description of Eau de Fröliche there is inscense in the brew, but I can only smell diminutive traces of it, probably because I know it’s there.

Eau de Fröliche is a straight forward composition, pretty linear and by no means a complicated blend, wearable during daytime for most occasions. It’s the a typical NICE and non-offensive fragrance that doesn’t make a statement, it’s just comfortably there. Taken in consideration that there is something that reminds me of a more tuned down and polished  LUSH-product I think the price 65 EUR/50 ml is a little too high. This compared with the fact that you can receive a quality blend as for example a 100 ml Mona di Orio to the price of 125 EUR.

Rating: 2+

Notes: Raspberry, fruity notes, cardamom, frankincense, iris, tonka bean, tolu balsam, vanilla, patchouli, rosewood

DoubleYou - Norvége

Picture: Lodalen, a valley in Sogn og Fjordane county, Norway

Photo: Aqwis (cc), some rights reserved, Wikimedia commons.

Norvége is the other of the two first fragrances from the Norwegian perfumehouse DoubleYou which I briefly descriped in the previous post. founded by Catherine Rösseland 2010. Norvège is inspired of Norway and Catherines origin on her mothers side. Norvége is intended to be worn separate or layered with Zanzibar (previous post). Just as Zanzibar, Norvége is created in colaboration with perfumer Barnabe Fillion. The fragrances are said to contain only natural ingredients, but I think that the most accurate description is that they contain a large proportion naturals.

Norvége opens up with notes reminding me of a citrusy, not to sweet, icy lemonade sipped in a sunny summerday. The lemony note remains during the whole drydown of Norvége and are accompanied by herbs, light flowers and some vanilla. Norvége has much less of the, for natural perfumes, typical dense, slight sour note, even if there are whiffs from it now and then. Even if Norvége doesn't give me the impression of the beautiful scenerys in our neighboring country, it's a nice and at the same time unusual fragrance for daytime that fits best for casual wearing. The longevity is very good to be a natural perfume, Norvége is still on my skin twelve hours from application. Norvége is a unusual perfume but it partly reminds me of Maître Perfumeur et Gantiers Eau de Camélia Chinois but the latter is less sweet and airier in it's impression than Norvége.

To sum up I think that the DoubleYou fragrances is interesting to try especially for fans of natural perfumes.
The two perfumes I tested is quite as good as most of them with Norvége in the better half of the league.

Rating: 3

Notes: Grass, coriander, magnolia, vanilla, thyme, lavendel, opoponax, lemon, dry wood, amber, sandalwood

DoubleYou - Zanzibar

Picture: Cloves, important commodity of Zanzibar,

 Photo by ? (cc), Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

Zanzibar is one of the two first fragrances from the Norwegian perfumehouse DoubleYou  founded by Catherine Rösseland 2010. Carherine has her roots in both Norway and in Western Africa as her father derived from Tanzania. Zanzibar mirrors that part of Catherines heritage as the other fragrance, Norvège is inspired of Norway and Catherines origin on her mothers side. Zanzibar and Norvège is intended to be worn separate or layered. The fragrances are created in colaboration with the perfumer Barnabe Fillion and they are said to contain only natural ingredients. The latter I doubt as there is very unusual that a fragrance contains 100 % naturals.The notelist below also supports my argument, since when is "leather" a natural? But there are undoubtly a high precentage of naturals in the blends as:

Sampling Zanzibar I was immediately aware of the clear presence of nautrals by the, to natural perfumes, typical slight sour, compact note. This note is present during the whole dry down but it's in no way repellent, on the contrary it fits the concept. Zanzibar is a warm and spicy perfume, to my nose the clove plays a central role, it reminds me of the smell of the Maja soaps from the house of Myrurgia. In the topnotes of Zanzibar I also smell something reminiscent of the smell of the traditional swedish dish boiled crawfish in dill broth.

As a natural perfume, Zanzibar reminds me of some of the perfumes of Liz Zorn that I have sampled. The typical natural note is present in both lines and overall they convays a similar expression. As I'm not so versed in natural perfumes my references are limited when trying to compare Zanzibar to other perfumes in this genere. But as I like some of Liz Zorns offerings as Grand Canyon and Oud Laquer, which dosen't have that typical smell of  naturalperfume. That is also the case with my favourite natural perfumeline La via del Profumo with for instance Mecca Balsam. Compared to that beautiful oriental natural fragrance Zanzibar, even if unusual, has some to catch up. I think that my rating is influnced by the fact that I'm not so used to natural perfumes. I think that someone more in to this genre will appreciate this blend much more than I'm.

Rating: 2+

Notes: Geranium, clove, leather, oak, siam- and cedar wood, rose, cardamom,  black currantbuds, ginger, cinnamon, sandalwood

Hassler Roma - Amorvero

Photo: Dinner at The Hassler´,

(c) Hotel Hassler, Roma

Amorvero is created by the italian nose Lorenzo Dante Ferro to catch the aura and the spirit of the posh, five star Hotel Hassler Roma, with traditions back in the nintheen century.

The discrete charm of Amorvero is perfectly catching the spirit of an establishment as Hotel Hassler. Amorvero opens as a classical oriental with bergamot and citrusy notes followed by distinctive ambery- floral elements. Something reminds me of the smell of understated, luxary soap that are present in first class hotels like Hassler. Despite the soapy association Amorvero isn't particulary soapy in it's drydown. The scent is somehow fleeting in it's texture. I'm trying the EDT version and as I understand, the EDP and perfume versions have more body and are more close to the skin. To me Amorvero EDT is a wearable daytime oriental that also can be worn in summerevenings without the risk of become cloying. Perfect for a romantic candellight dinner a warm summerevening in the eternal city.

There is something in the spirit of Amorvero that reminds me of Guerlains Vol de Nuit EDT, in some of the latest, but not the latest, formulation. As VdN is sharper and has more of a aldehydic irisy feeling, Amorvero smells more of ambery-wrapped white flowers and is softer, warmer, rounder and more sweet in it's character. The ackords of white flowers and oriental notes seems to be seamless and the blend is very well rendered. The sample of Amorvero EDT comes from Fragrance & Art

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, citrus, mandarine, jasmine, tuberose, rose, sandalwood, vanilla, amber

Gianluca Bulega - Amami per Sempere

Picture: Teatro alla Scala by night.

Photo by: o2ma (cc), Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

To me Amami per Sempere from italian fashiondesigner Gianluca Bulega is just a slight smoother and timid version of Krizias discontinued Teatro alla Scala but la Scala is more distinct in it's apperance.

Amami per Sempere starts with sparkling citrusy notes, followed by a heart of a floral oriental carachter. The basenotes are warm, a nice vanilla accompanied by sandalwood and darker traces of patchouli. Thera are also a part of the base that reminds me of  Estee Lauders Youth Dew. ApS is a warm and creamy scent that suits many occasions. The longevity is outstanding, I can smell the basenotes on my wrist 24 h after application and at this stage there are some liqueury notes comming through.

ApS is a nice scent but on the other hand it's also totaly forgettable and without it's own carachter. The only thing I remember after wearing this is it's similarities with Teatro alla Scala. This annoys me during the whole wearing of ApS, to the high price it commands it shouldn't be a weak copy of the bold Teatro alla Scala. Due to it's similarities to Teatro alla Scala, Amami per Sempere qualify to it's rating, it smells good. Taken the high price in account (almost EUR 200 on sale) and the annoying fact that it is almost a copy of old alla Scala it probably deserves a lower rating. All this matters weighted against each other ends up in:

Rating: 3

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, iris, rose, jasmine, narcissus, white flowers, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla 

Unsorted perfume thoughts February 2012

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Unsorted thoughts in my perfumeoriented mind:

- What a relief that January is over. I had promised myself only testing/using samples and I always keep promises :-) I have so longed for using my bottles that have waiting for me. Now I'm free to wear them even if testing from samples will be the main activity in February as well. And as today I'm still sampling... Maybe 2012 will be the year draining the samples...
- I think the lesson above is very enlighting: It  it makes me really appreciate my collection. But on the other hand; sampling also raises new temptations and thats one of the trills in testing perfume.
- The other day I passed through the perfumesection at the local department store and in passing sprayed the latest Versace Yellow Diamond: Citrusy-fruity-chemichal hell, I immadiately had to find a paperbin to throw the horrible scent strip away. I liked the first one Crystal Noir quite well, is neutral to Bright Crystal. How could this disaster happen?
-Two - three weeks ago, winter has finally caught us up in this nordic outpost. Strangly enough I don't yearn for my oriental lieblings. Instead I'm mostly stucked in heavy florals and Vero Kerns Kiki Edp which is just beautiful.
- Looking into my tweets there are much MPG testing the latest month. This house is a growing liking to me. Even if I have appreciated some of it's fragrances for many years I now have started to appreciate the different themes of the house. Earlier I was much more simplistic.
- A few days ago I've re-tested By Kilians clean and realistic jasmine Love and Tears, Surrender. It's just as beautiful as when i tried it last spring/summer. If not better as it lasts very well, without falling apart, more than twelve hours in the cold weather (- 10 C).  Love it!
- Yesterday I was wearing Teo Cabanels Alahine, a sweet, almost licqouary floral oriental that developes excellent in the cold (-15 C) snowy, weather. Maybe I turn into the orientals at last.

Isabey - L'Ambre de Carthage

Picture: Ruins of the Punic Quarter on the Byrsa hill, Carthage.

Photo: BishkekRocks, (cc) Wikimedia Commons.

From the description of L'Ambre de Carthage, it seems that the 2011 introduced fragrance  is a reworking of a Isabey oriental from 1924. The fragrance is intended to be "pour homme" but to me L'AdC is totally unisex.

When first applied L'AdC somehow reminds me of Dune by Dior. Later in the drydown there is also similarities with Scent Intense by Costume National but L'AdC is more ambery and has no special characteristics as SI:s the- and hibiscusnotes. L'AdC to me is a typical, contemporary, resiny amber, with some incense and I also think I can sniff my good friend mr Ambrox in the mixture. Nice blend but very conventional. Nothing like my favourite ambers, the two opposite interpretations of  amber: The dark, dirty, animalic  L'Ombre Fauve from Parfumerie Generale or the sparkling, crackling dry, gunpowdery Les Nombres d'Or Ambre from Mona di Orio.

L'AdC is a well-behaved and well balanced blend of good quality. It is wearable in various situations during the cold season and for evenings during the summer. L'AdC has a good sillage and the longivety is at least twelve hours. But despite all it's merits, L'AdC doesn't move me at all. Sample from good ol' Aus Liebe zum Duft

Rating: 3

Notes: Bergamot, labdanum, osmanthus, jasmin, amber, olibanum, sandalwood, patchouli

Vero Profumo - Kiki EDP

Picture: Lavendel in the fall of 2011.

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Vero Kerns Kiki starts with a beautiful, bright, clean and sparkling lavendel which after a while blends with the characteristic slight tart scent of passionfruit. I can recognize the note from Maïtre Parfumeur et Gantiers Fraiche Passiflore but in that scent it is lighter and more flowery, which of course not is that suprising, featuring that name. The note of passionfruit  I'll also recognise from Veros Rubj and Onda EDP which also highlights the passionfruit and it somehow smells like the pulp of the fruit,. As Kiki drys down the note of passiflore deepens and mingle with the noble note of lavendel, some hints of brisk geranium and a well balanced patchouli that bases the notes. In this stage that lasts the rest of the day, Kiki has reached its perfection as Angel Lavandula.

Something that fascinates me with Kiki is that I can still smell clear whiffs of the clean and bright lavendel sixteen hours after application. At that stage it would not be surprising if the patch had taken over the show but instead it supports the lavendel in a balanced way. Kiki is in the same spirit as Serge Lutens Gris Clair and there are some similarities in notes, the clean and bright lavendel is the most obvious. But as Gris Clair to me are more masculine in it's character, featuring incense and harsher notes, Kiki, with it's passionfruit and patch is the feminine version.

Kiki is a true comfortscent that lasts the whole day and remains unfragmented, a perfect companion during cold winterdays, especially on Mondays I have noticed.The paring of lavendel, passionflower and patchouli seems quite unusual but is in this case a perfect match.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, citron, passionfruit, lavendel, geranium, musk, patchouli, caramel

Huitième Art - Ambre Ceruleen

Bild: Chinese Crested Dog - Powderpuff

Foto: Tommy Gildseth (cc) Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

For summary in english, scroll down. 

Känns som den gode Pierre Guillaume haft lite för bråttom är han blandat ihop Ambre Ceruleen. I och för sig en helt annan stil en hans utmanande L'Ombre Fauve (se review häromdagen) för Parfumerie Générale Private Collection men ändå. En lätt och ljus, lite retropudrig ambra som efter toppnoterna stannar kvar i samma ackord resten av dagen. Mysig och mjuk som en angoratröja att burra in sig i en kall dag men doften tillför ingenting. Tankarna går till Molinards Ambre när det gäller framtoningen, men Molinards Ambre är mer originell med sin kristalliserade, karamellnot. Även Pradas Candy dyker upp i den inre biografen, men den är i mitt tycke mer intressant som helhet. Konstigt nog anges inte ambra som ingrediens men ambra ackord tas fram av variationer på orientaliska ackord, här finns benzoin, tonkaböna och sandelträ. Labdanum och cistus är, om jag inte missminner mig, komponenter som brukar finnas med i mörkare ambraackord.

Summa sumarum: Ambre Ceruleen är en helt ok lätt ambradoft, icke påträngande och bärbar överallt, när som helst, utom när det är varmt på sommaren. Provet kommer från Fragrance & Art

Over all Ambre Ceruleen is a quite ok light amberstyled scent, non-intrusive and wearable anywhere, anytime, except when it is hot in the summer. The clean and innocent Ambre Ceruleen is the direct opposite to PG:s dirty amber L'Ombre Fauve, reviewed earlier this week. Ambre Ceruleen has some similarities with Molinards Ambre but I think that one is more interesting with it's caramelized note. Also Pradas Candy comes to my mind but as more complex and interesting than the well-adjusted, well-blended, cute, angora puffy Ambre Ceruleen. Ambre Ceruleen is a good choice to those who want at light, proper and clean amber that is comforting and doesn't disturb anyone. The sample tested comes from Fragrance & Art 

Rating: 3

Noter: Verbena, tonkabönor, sandelträ, opoponax /verbena, tonkabeen, sandalwood, opoponax

Parfumerie Générale - L'Ombre Fauve

Picture:  Old, Old Fairy Tales: "Beauty and the Beast" by Anne Anderson.

Beauty sat down to dinner with the beast...Drawing: Anne Anderson (1874-1930)

Wikimedia Commons

Scroll down for an english version.

L'Ombre Fauve "Bestens skugga" är verkligen ett passande namn åtminstone om man går efter inledningen av Parfumerie Générales ambra med rökelseträ accentuerade doft. I starten luktar den ovädrad gammal klädkammare där en eller annan gammal, lite torr, päls hänger. Det är en torr, pälsig doft som även om den nog kan verka frånstötande för en del, ger en spännande inledning av denna fint komponerade doft. Allteftersom de instängda noterna vädras ut blir L'Ombre Fauve mer konventionell även om den i sann PG anda aldrig blir en vanlig doft. L'Ombre Fauve är en doft som hela tiden kittlar min fantasi, något som för mig är ett kännetecken på en bra doft. I nästa fas inträder söta, lätt vaniljiga noter och ett stänk av den aprikosigt, fruktiga noten av artemisia som finns i L'Oiseu de Nuit, se review häromdagen. Sedan trokar L'Ombre Fauve ned i en varmt, ambrerande, torrt sandelträig doft med en fin och mycket behaglig pudrighet. Lite dammig pälsighet lurar fortfarande i bakgrunde även om L'Ombre Fauve i den här fasen känns mer lik andra fina ambradofter.

 L'Ombre Fauve är ett riktigt förvandlingsnummer, börjar som de håriga besten som kryper fram i sin håla och slutar nästan som en elegant dam. Skönheten och odjuret í samma doft. På något vis saknar jag den brutala starten när L'OF tonat ut i de bärbara stadierna när den blivit en elegant och retrolik doft. Den påminner mig i den här fasen om en modern variant av Carons Nuit de Noël. Nuit de Noël skapades ursprungligen som en pälsdoft när den kom ut 1924. Under 1920-talet var det vanligt att man parfymerade själva pälsen. Nuit de Nöel innehåller precis som L'Ombre Fauve, en diskret pälsig ton .

L'Ombre Fauve passar perfekt kyliga och mörka vinterdagar och kvällar.

L'Ombre Fauve, "The Shadow of the Beast" is really a fitting name, at least if you judge by the topnotes of this Parfumerie Générale amber, incense accented scent. It starts smelling like an old storms wardrobe in which one or another old, dusty, dry fury-coats are hanging. This dusty, dirty, dry, fury smell, even if it probably may seem repugnant to some, provides a fascinating introduction to this well constructed, interesting and fascinating fragrance. As the unaired waredrobe notes are blown out, L'Ombre Fauve becomes more conventional, although in true PG spirit it will never be an ordinary fragrance. L'Ombre Fauve tickels my imagination during it's whole drydown, and that's the ultiamte sign of a good perfume to me. The next phase begins with some hints of light vanilla notes and also a hint of apricots, which is the fruity note of artemisia, also available in L'Oiseu de Nuit, see my review earlier this week. In the basenotes L'Ombre Fauve drys down into a warm, ambery, dry woody scent with a nice and very pleasant powdery feeling of sandalwood. Some of the dusty furiness is still lurking in the background, even if L'Ombre Fauve in this phase feels more similar to other fine amber fragrances.
L'Ombre Fauve is something of a metamorphosis, in the beginning a hairy beast that crawls out of its cave and ends up almost as an elegant lady. Beauty and the Beast in the same scent. Somehow I miss the brutal start when L'Ombre Fauve has faded out in the more conventional stages as a more polished, elegant and retro fragrance, reminding me of a contemporary version of Caron Nuit de Noël. Nuit de Noël by the way, was created as a fur fragrance when it first came out 1924. During the 1920s it was quite common to perfume the fury coats, and Nuit de Noël just as L'Ombre Fauve.
provides a matching discreet furry note.

L'Ombre Fauve is perfect to wear in cold and dark winter days and nights.

Notes: Rökelseträ, patchoulli, mysk, ambra, trä /incense, patchouli, musc, amber, woody notes
Rating: 5

Parfumerie Générale - L'Oiseau de Nuit

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Scroll down for an english version.

Pierre Guillaumes L'Oiseau de Nuit ska vara något av en light-läder och något lätt-lädrigt finns det nog i denna nattfågel. Men främst finns där en fin kittig not som jag tycker är trevlig i dofter. Den kittiga noten finns också i Chanels Allure Sensuelle och i Serge Lutens ekträ doftande Chêne. Så därför känns L'OdN ganska bekant. En annan not som är tydlig i L'OdN är en mörkt, dov, fruktighet som kommer av davana extrakt (artemisia). Det finns också en lite jordig ton i L'OdN. Den påminner också om en mer feminin, sötare och snällare variant av PG:s L'Ombre Fauve.

För mig är L'OdN en mörkt, blå doft som faktiskt ger nattassociationer. Doften är komfortabel och mörkt, aprikosmarmeladigt söt, sammansatt av fina ingredienser av hög kvalitet. Men samtidigt känns den lite rörig och splittrad, som om den inte kan bestämma sig utan ska vara så mycket på en gång, lite som en splittrad tonåring. Både L'Ombre Fauve, Allure Sensuelle och Chêne är mycket mer vuxna och bestämda i sin karaktär, de kör sina egna race med tydliga mål i sikte. Men det här är som L'OdN uppträder på min hud, den är säkert helt suberb på många andra. L'OdN passar bäst höst och vinter och är bärbar vid de flesta tillfällen. Projektionen är ganska låg, något av en skinscent på mig, och hållbarheten på huden är fullt tillräcklig.

L'Oiseau de Nuit  by Pierre Guillaume is something of a light leather and some delicate leather there certainly is in this night bird. But mostly there is a putty, slight sweet, woody, note that I think is so nice in fragrances. That putty note is also available in Chanel's Allure Sensuelle and Serge Lutens oak scented Chene. So that's probably why L'OdN  is quite familiar. Another note that is clear in L'OdN is a dark, subdued, fruitiness (as dried dates) that comes from the Davana extract (artemisia). There is also a slightly earthy tone of L'OdN that recalls me of PG L'Ombre Fauve. And to me L'OdN is something of aa more feminine, prettier and easier version of the dusky PG L'Ombre Fauve.

To me, L'OdN is a dark blue fragrance that actually gives associations of the night, just as the picture above. The scent is comfortable and dark, sweet like apricot jam and as PG:s generally are, composed of high quality ingredients. But at the same time it feels a bit cluttered and fragmented, as if it can not decide how to evolve, a bit like a lost teenager that want's to be so much at once. Both L'Ombre Fauve, Allure Sensuelle and Chene are much more adult and definite in their character, they are running their own race with a clear goal in sight. But this is as L'OdN appears on my skin, it is certainly quite superb on other skin chemistrys. L'OdN is best suited for autumn and winter and wearable for most occasions. The sillage is quite low, almost a skinscent to me, and the longevity good but not outstanding.

Rating: 4

Noter: Labdanum, davana extrakt, benzoin, läder/leather

Parfumista goes International

Drumroll!

• From now on I will start to write my new reviews in swe(english). Not writing in my native language will of course cause that I miss many words and nuances but on the other hand, there is no huge population of eager perfumistas here in Sweden. Speaking of that see Sigruns post on this topic at Fragrancefanatic
• The transition to Parfumista International will implemented little by little during 2012. As I already have almost a plethora of prewritten, scheduled reviews for this year in swedish, most of them will be summeraized in the end of the swedish version and sometimes I will translate the whole post. As time is limited sometimes posts written only in swedish will sneak in between.
• My ambition is also to translate some of the most popular reviews of 2011, but at present that has  lower priority. But check now and then, you never know when I'm in mood for this historical updates. 
• I will post in the blog to notice when such a historical update is published.
• I hope I will cope with this translating project during 2012. In spring 2011 I started translating but tired as it took too long.

Let's start!

Parfumerie Générale - Bois de Copaiba

Bild: Woman at her toilette, 1889

Henri Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-1901), Wikimedia Commons

Scroll down for summary in english.
"Luktar tant, för starkt ". Herr Parfumista är inte särskilt nådig mot Pierre Guillaumes pudriga, varma oriental Bois de Copaiba. Min väninna är mer diplomatisk, "väldigt pudrig, damig". Men jag kan inte låta bli att tycka om denna klassiska oriental mer än jag borde, eftersom den påminner om andra, redan existerande fina orientaler och florala orientaler. Den känns varm, orange och för tankarna till ett annat århundrade, som på bilden ovan.

BdC inleder med att påminna mig mycket om en fas i Serge Lutens klassiska läderdoft Cuir Mauresques utveckling. Det är det varma, torrt pudrigt lätt apelsinblommigt lite fruktiga, spanskt lädriga inslaget. Det finns också något i BdC som påminner om Jean Patous florala oriental Divine Folie, troligen rör det sig om ett inslag av nejlika. Och så finns där en not av heliotrophe, även om den inte nämns, något som är likt Patricia de Nicolaïs Kiss me tender. Längre fram i doften ger sig sedan gamla hederliga Shalimar till känna, särskilt den bergamottdominerade öppningen i Shalimar finns med som ett stråk i BdC. Den senare delen av BdC känns mer transparent än starten, om man nu kan använda ordet transparant i de här orientaliska sammanhangen, och BdC får ytterligare en dimension. Den här fasen förstärks också pudrigheten av en fin och mjuk sandeltränot.

BdC är en sådan där doft som jag har fastnat för ordentligt trots, eller kanske just för att, den påminner så om flera fina klassiker. Att jag verkligen har fastnat för en doft är tydligt när den pockar på uppmärksamhet och dyker upp i tankarna flera dagar efter att jag provat den. Jag testade den också för ett och ett halvt år sedan men då klickade det inte ordentligt. Eller så segrade förnuftet över känslan. Nu finns stor risk att motsatsen inträffar!

BdC är en varm, kraftfull doft och herr Parfumista har delvis rätt i uttalandet om för stark. Jag tog lite för mycket, det medges. Däremot rätt doserad så är den med sin värme helt perfekt för en lång, kall vinter. Den är också mycket intressant med sina olika faser och det bekanta och igenkännande som doften förmedlar.

 Mr Parfumista first comments of  Bois de Copiba was "this is an old ladys scent" (I hate that expression as I like many of scents in classical aldehydic, chypre or oriental style).  One have to be very careful when applicating BdC, when I tested this at first I spritsed to much. When applicated with lighter hand Mr P suddenly liked BdC. And of course, BdC is very ladylike and something of a contemporary interpretation of the classical, powdery, balmy, resiny oriental genere. Old classics as Shalimar, Divine Folie and also modern interpretations as Cuir Mauresque but also the heliothropeladen Kiss Me Tender comes to my mind. A great blend with an outstanding longevity that doesn't loses interest to the wearer during the drydown. On the contrary in BdC the talanted Pierre Guillaume summerizes the classical oriental genre and there is very inspiring and interesting to meet all this good old friends during the drydown.

Betyg/Rating: 5

Noter: Apelsin, amaretto, ingefära, myrra, copahubalsam,  mahogany, sandelträ

Bulgari - Mon Jasmin Noir

Picture: Typ av undervegetation. /Sort of undergrowth

Photo: Parfumista (c)

Scroll down for summary in english

Bulgaris Mon Jasmin Noir är någon slags fortsättning på Jasmin Noir som kom för några år sedan, båda komponerade av Sophie Labbé men i fallet Jasmin Noir tillsammans med Carlos Benaim istället för Oliver Cresp som är medkompositör i MJN.

MJN inleds med en vegeterande not, påminnande om en kemisk, lite skarp variant av den i Guerlains Jardins de Bagatelle respektive Annick Goutals Passion. Först slår den vegeterande noten över i något obehgligt shampoaktigt men shampokänslan försvinner när MJN når mellanregistret. Här inträder en mycket lätt pepprighet som är lite rökelseliknande, men det är antagligen cederträet i basen som gör sig gällande. Något lite spritsigt grönt smyger sig också in, kanske en variation på den not av sav som finns i JN. Det finns också en liksom sammetslik, konfektlik söthet i MJN. Jasminen som ska vara doftens huvudnummer är inte den vanliga jasmindoften utan känns som en mycket skalad variant. Som om man tagit ut några av doftmolekylerna och satt samman till en anorektisk jasmin. Så för mig är inte MJN så mycket jasmin och så är fallet även med föregångaren JN som är mer av en doft blommig, grönt, träig oriental medan MJN är mer av en myskigt, gräsig, pepprig, vegeterande, lätt blommig doft med stråk av bättre konfekt. Ett alternativ till denna typ av nedtonad, skalad jasmin är i mitt tycke Parfumerie Generales Drama Nuui. Den är inte lika skarp som JN och MJN och bland annat jasmin, trä och kryddor framkallar en trevlig, lätt theig aura.

Om jag jämför MJN och JN så är den sistnämnda  mitt tycke en mer fullländad och originell doft, dvs att parfymörena tänkt till en del när de skapade formulan. JN känns mer dramatisk och fungerar också som en kvällsdoft medan MJN i mitt tycke mer är en dagdoft då den är mer straight forward och ljusare. På det hela taget är inte MJN så tokig när den torkat ned, även om den, precis som JN ger i från sig en lite skarp not på mig.

Bulgaris Mon Jasmin Noir is a kind of continuation of Jasmin Noir, which was released from the same house a few years ago. To me all together, the sappy-green with it's contrasting dark, woody vanilla Jasmin Noir is the more interesting of the two. Mon Jasmin Noir on the other hand is lighter and has an interesting vegetal feeling, there are notes that reminds me of classical floral fragrances with vegetal layers as Guerlains Jardins de Bagatelle and Annick Goutals Passion with Mon Jasmin Noir as an 2010's interpretation of the theme. There is also peppery and some schampoo-like notes in the top. Traces of powdery candy notes appears as Mon Jasmin Noir dries down, probably the nougat mentioned among the notes. Jasmine is very light handed in both Jasmin Noir and Mon Jasmin Noir, a similar treat as in Parfumerie Generales Drama Nuui . The latter is smoother and more spicy to me where as the to Bulgaris are projected sharper on my skin. Mon Jasmin Noir is more easy going, an office scent, than Jasmin Noir which is more of an evening fragrance. Of the two I would choose Jasmin Noir but I would be happy to wear Mon Jasmin Noir if somebody gifted med with a bottle.

Rating: 3

Notes: Citrusnoter, liljekonvalj, jasmin, nougat, mysk, patchoulli, cederträ / citrus, lily of the vally, jasmine, nougat, musc, patchouli, cedarwood

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier - Eau de Camélia Chinois

Picture: Lemon - fleur et fruit. Photo: Elena Chochkova (cc)

Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

...or just Camélia Chinois, it has been re-named in recent years, is a Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier creation from 1997. As Jean Laporte transferred the ownership of MPG to Jean-Paul Millet Lage that year I'm not sure who is the creator but I suppose Jean Laporte as Jean-Paul Millet Lage was trained several years by Laporte as a part of the deal. Given the weirdness and peculiarity of this perfume, is suppose the nose is Laporte.

Camélia Chinois is definitly NOT a crowdpleaser. When I first put it on i thought, "Oh now do I have to suffer through a whole day with this". The opening is a sharp burst of lemony cleaner combined with a note that is similar to something that according to Mr Parfumista is similar to lily of the vally. This observation was independently confirmed by the kids who told me "You smell like grandmother", a faithful wearer of Diorissimo and Jessica McClintock. But according to the notelist there is no lily of the vally, but who knows. There are also some green and fresh herbal notes playing around.

When lived through the topnotes with conflicting emotions suddenly the CC transforms to a creamy, slight soapy, well balanced, light flowery, still lemony but now in a soft texture, green, soft herbal (preferably basil) blend. The mixture is somehow airy, bright and light even if it is very potent (on my skin at least). I read in a comment at Fragrantica that Camélia Chinois is a french name of a teaplant and probably it's the teanote that cause that airy note and maybe also the detergent note that lurking in the background. But on the other hand, the teanote is not as distinguishable and harsh as in the Bulgari perfumes, it's of another kind and so well blended with the oter notes. The lemony notes in Camélia Chinois have some similarities with the natural perfume Norvége from DoubleYou, a fragrance I will review in a month or two.

In spite of it's strangeness, Camélia Chinois is perfect for casual wearing during a day at work. It's a sunny and happy fragrance that lightens up a gloomy day. The sillage is moderate and the longivity is great.

To summon up I have found another MPG favorite but this time in another style than the musky, dirty, jasmine ones that I usually appreciate from the house. MPG is, according to my opinion, an underrated perfumhouse that usually offers surprises, good or bad. But their fragrances almost never leaves me unaffected.

Rating: 4

Notes: Grapefruit, bergamot, tea, basil, resins, sandalwood, musk

Cartier - Baiser Volé

Picture: Lilium longiflorum, Easter Lily.

Photo by UpstateNYer (cc), Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

A freshly washed cashmerejumper white as snow, worn by an elegant woman in a large likewise elegant. white decorated living room. She is resting in front of the lighted fire in the marble fireplace in the center of the room. That's the image that Mathilde Laurents Baiser Volé evokes to me.

After some gentle citrusnotes and a light note of luxery detergent in the top, Baiser de Volé is a quite linear creamy, lily fragrance. If the fragrance had a texture it would be something like the showercreme of Dove. The lily is bright and crisp with a soft spiciness that feels like the natural spiciness of the lilyflower.  but in the same time it is warm, not cold as lily scents often are. The creamy aura reminds me of the creaminess of Burberry Body, but as Body features a pink rose, Baiser de Volé features the white lily.

When it comes to comparing BV to other lily fragrances I have to confess that I like it much better than Serge Lutens Un Lys. To me Un Lys is Lily of the valley and the scent is somehow fragmented and a little screamy and not as full blown as BV. Compared to the favorite lily of mine, Donna Karan Gold, Gold with it's woody- watery, dark lily notes is like a forest in the evening, with golden rays falling through the trees and something dark lurking in the background. As BV is another type of lily fragrance it has it's place even i a wardrobe already containing those.

Maybe Baiser de Volé is not the most complicated creation but on the other hand it's just lovely and cosy. And that's exactly what I need gray and chilly days. To my nose, one of the best releases among designer fragrances in 2011. I received my sample from Escentual.

Rating: 5

Notes: Citrusnoter, gröna blad, lilja/ Citrus, green notes, lily

Juliette Has A Gun - Vengeance Extreme

Bild: Novemberros Foto: Herr Parfumista (c)

För ganska precis ett år sedan (i morgon) reviewade jag Juliette Has A Gun's Lady Vengeance som såklart är föregångaren till Vengeance Extreme. Lady Vengeance skapades av mästernäsan Francis Kurkdjian som var ett slags husnäsa och skapade husets första dofter innan JHAG:s grundare Romano Ricci själv kände sig tillräckligt varm i kläderna för att antingen själv eller troligen i samarbete med en riktig (men mindre känd än FK) parfymör skapa några egna, riktigt bra dofter som Midnight Oud och Calamity J.

Vengeance Extreme är i mångt och mycket Lady Vengeance reversed. I Extreme är det patchoullin som dominerar över den fina rosennoten som finns i både men som alltså får spela mer fritt i Lady V. Extreme inleds med ros men patchoullin blir ganska fort huvudaktören med rosen som supporterande not istället för tvärtom i Lady V. Både rosnoten och patchoullinoten är fina men rosen noten relativt fiiiinare, den känns faktiskt rätt äkta, som om den har hög andel äkta rosenolja. Vanlijen i basen är lite mer tydlig i Lady V och är mer hunsad av patchoullin i Extreme. Vengeance Extreme är precis som Lady V en komfortdoft som lättar upp den värsta, grå vinterdag och jag finner mig konstant klistrad med näsan mot handlederna precis som med Lady V, tur att man döljer sig i eget rum på jobbet, handledssniffande kan verka obskyrt i landskap.

Sammantaget: Även om jag tycker bra om Vengeance Extreme så känns den lite som ett billigt trick att försöka mjölka ut lite mer profit genom att göra en tvist på Francis Kurkdjians första formula, liksom i brist en riktig parfymör.

Nu cirklar jag runt den svåra biten, vilken att föredra, Lady V eller Extreme? Som alltid gäller; smaken är som baken - delad. Gillar man patch, vilket jag gör så är Extreme No 1. Men gillar man ros, som jag också gör är Lady V No 1, 1-1 i rond 1 således. Utslaget blir att jag tycker att rosennoten är så fin och att den är relativt bättre än medelrosen än vad patchen är medelpatchen. Med Lady V får jag något som mer skiljer sig från mängden än med Extrme som med sin dominerande patchoullinot påminner mer om annat på marknaden än Lady V. Då Lady V fick betyg 4+ får Extreme i konsekvensens namn:

Betyg: 4

Noter: Patchoulli, ros, vanilj