söndag 12 september 2021
Early autumn 2021
Photos 1-6: Parfumista (c)
Photos 7-9: From Fragrantica (c)
måndag 28 december 2020
Best of 2020
In 2020 the year of Covid-19, the opportunities to sniff/try new releases, has been limited. Below the releases from 2020 which I've tested.
The winner
Picture: Puredistance Rubikona Photo: PR Puredistance (c) |
Puredistance Rubikona - The more I wear Rubikona the more I love it. Starts chilly crisp and than gets warmer, wonderful creamy flowers, patchouli and moss. A real contemporary chypre, like a modernized version of a classic green chypre. This is the scent of power and self confidence, the role model for Rubikona must be Ursula von der Leyen, an Ursula in any age. When wearing Rubikona, I'm always come to think of the power woman UvdL and her cool blonde apperance.
The close contenderPicture: Serge Lutens Fils de Joie
Photo: PR Serge Lutens (c)
Serge Lutens Fils de Joie - Sweet, jasmine of different types drenched in honey, glowing like the sunset in the late summer, followed bt a dark but warm, mysterious starry night. This is the best Lutens for years and it reminds me of a scent from the past, have to wear Fils de Joie more to find out which.
Picture: Goutal Le Temps des Rêves Photo: PR Goutal (c) |
The no 3
Annick Goutal Le Temps des Rêves - Even if not as complex as the other two, LTdR is a well constructed, lovely contemplative soft white flower fragrance with notes of neroli and contrasting bran which is a new note to me in perfumes. Happy and comforting with a good stayingpower taking in consideration it's an EDT and a Goutal. Reminds me of the beautiful Hermès Hermessence Cedre Sambac.
The rest of the bunch
Picture: Dolce & Gabbana The Only One Intense Photo: PR Dolce & Gabbana (c) |
Dolce & Gabbana The Only One Intense - This is my secret obsession this autumn/winter. Delicious, without too much sweetness. Fluffy, creamy coconut and neroli, contrasted by an applenote. Comforting and de-stressing. A hidden gem among the mainstreams.
Picture: Goutal Rose Pompon EDP Photo: PR Goutal (c) |
Annick Goutal Rose Pompon EDP 2020 - A 2018 release in a new bottle 2020, maybe also the notes are tweaked somehow, dont know as I havn't tested the 2018 EDP. I was not so fond of the 2018 EDT which was a bit weak IMO. The EDP is thicker, the typical sweet (here not too sweet) raspberry rose which has been so popular the recent years. The raspberry rose done right.
Picture: Guerlain Patchouli Ardent Photo: PR Guerlain(c) |
Guerlain Les Absolus de Orient Patchouli Ardent - I don't like the opening which is dry, a bit peppery, woody. Then suddenly PA changes and becomes deep green as a dark fig note appears and the woody notes goes from woody to green conifers. The patchouli is not present as detectable note, it plays a second role, blended with oud, contributing with a fresh but dark earthiness. Dark woody and figgy glimmering green, like wandering through a primeval forest.
Picture: Hermès L'Ombre des Merveilles Photo: PR Hermès (c) |
Hermès L'Ombre des Merveilles - My favorite among the Merveilles. A darker version of the salty L'Ombre des Merveilles Bleue. I find with some similarities with the light smoky, sundried woody black tea accord from Hermès Eau de Citron Noir an underestimated fragrance in the Hermès Cologneline.
torsdag 24 december 2020
The fragrances of Christmas Eve 2020
Picture: In the the wood 2020 Photo: Parfumista (c) |
söndag 4 oktober 2020
Puredistance - Rubikona
Picture: Rubikona a mulitfacetted, glowing gem Drawing: PR Puredistance (c) |
Rubikona from the luxurious perfumehouse Puredistance: I've craved for this perfume since I got information about the release about a year ago. Why did it attract me far in advance?
- The description promised a contemporary but retro chypre,
- From my favorite perfumehouse Puredistance, always reliable when it comes to quality and imaginative perfume concepts.
- Created by one of my favorite perfumers Cécile Zarokian.
- The teaser of the coming presentation in elegant ruby red, which now is realized from the flacons to the images and drawings of the Rubikona women.
In October 15 2020, Rubikona finally will be launched and thanks to the founder of Puredistance Jan Ewoud Vos, I've tested it. Does the perfume (extrait 28% perfumeoil) live up to my high expectations? Yes it really does, it exceeds them by far. This is the best constructed perfume I've tested for years, there are so many layers and also facetts within each layer of the perfume, a real mulitfacetted gem, the inspiration from the glowing ruby is spot on. Rubikona is now my No 1 favorite from Puredistance.
Picture: The chic Rubikona Extrait Photo: PR Puredistance (c) |
The opening of Rubikona is très chic with an elegant blended citric dominated accord (which doesn't smell like citrus) of bergamot, mandarin and surprisingly grapefruit. There is absolutely no traces of the often almost acrid impression that grapefruitnote can provoke. When Rubikona first hit my skin, I for a short while, can smell a note that reminds me of lilac slightly reinforced by aniseed and I come to think of another great perfume from Puredistance - Opardu.
The following overall warm, but still in some aspects almost chilly and refreshing dry down, is very wellblended. The indivdual notes doesn't stand out, they cooperate in well crafted accords to an experience far greater than Rubikonas different parts. In the heart there are mixed elegant creamy flowers reinforced by soft mossy and woody notes balancing the fragrance, creating an overall dry texture. In the basenotes there is a creaminess in the dryness and something fleeting by that reminds me of a smooth and gentle edition of accords from Robert Piguet Bandit. When it comes to the warmth of Rubikona, I can imagine and almost visualize, it coming from the intense glow of the gemstone and the contrasting chiliness I perceive reminds me that after all, the ruby as material is a cold mineral. When compared to Cécile Zarokians other great creation for Puredistance the oriental, warm as the sand in the desert, Sheiduna, which to me is warm-warm in apperance, Rubikona is cold-warm.
Even if Rubikona is a contemporary chypre it not at all features the typical, a bit sweet patchouli musk base, which is quite pleasant but standard in the so called noveau chypres. There is patchouli and musk in Rubikonas baseenotes for sure but so wellblended that it's almost impossible to pick up the indivdual notes. The texture of Rubikona is dry and transparent
Picture: The elegant sprit of Rubikona Drawing: PR Puredistance (c) |
in apperance, and manages to creat the impression of an elegant, retro flowery-green chypre in a contemporary form. I come to think of the great chypres from the late 70s and 80s but not dense, animalic, bold and intrusive as many of them. When comparing Rubikona to the other chypre of the Puredistance line, the elegant Warszawa , the latter represent another sub-group of chypres; the dark fruity one (think Guerlain Mitsouko, Rochas Femme, YSL Yvresse). Rubikona is from the brighter floral sometimes green sub group (think Esteé Lauder Knowing and Private Collection (original), Trussardi Femme (80s original)).
When wearing Rubikona images pops up from memory, inducing and triggering scentmemories is one sign for a real intriguing perfume. In this case a ceratin light pink lipbalm in a black metal tube with white cap and screw mechanism which I (and also a friend who had exactly the same association when she smelled Rubikona) were wearing in school in the late 70s and early 80s. Can't remember the name of it and when thinking of this lip balm, I can still clearly visualize the place around the corner where I put this lip balm on before entering the schoolbuilding. When it comes to fragrances from the past, there are for example elements that reminds my friend of the fresh, green Private Collection, me of the green mossy YSL Y. My friend was also reminded of the powerful Giorgio Beverly Hills (in a positive way she emphasized, don't be scared from this association, Rubikona is not smelling similar, they just somehow share the positive, warm, sunny and shining spirit). Also something from Montana Parfum de Peau stripped of the animalic notes, comes to my mind. The fragrance Rubikona reminds me most of (up to this day at least) is the warm and elegant Hérmes 24 Faubourg.
To summarize my overall impressions: Rubikona as a concept, reminds me of a contemporary, transparent, less bold and not dense interpreation of the great floral and floral-green chypres of the 70s-80s.
Rubikona is elegant and chic, suitable for daytime wear and also for the evening, even if Warszawa (of the Puredistance chypres ) IMHO is more of the evening type of perfume. To me Rubikona is leaning more to the feminine side even if the refreshing, dry, mossy, woody elements also make it suitable for brave men. Sillage is medium and longevity about 12h.
Rubikona will be the perfect Christmas gift of 2020 to all lovers of real chypres. Even if no oakmoss is mentioned among the ingredients, this masterful blend itself, creates a light touch of it. From my point of view, this is a timeless perfume that will stand the test of time, a future classic.
Rating: 5+
Notes: Grapefruit, bergamot, mandarin, rose, iris, ylang-ylang, clove, orange blossom, creamy notes, patchouli, cedarwood, musk, vanilla, solar notes
Picture: Rubikona avaible in three different sizes: 17.5 ml, 60 and 100 ml Photo: PR Puredistance (c) |
Thanks to Puredistance Jan Ewoud Vos & team for the opportunity to try this gem.
fredag 19 juni 2020
Midsummer 2020
Picture: Just unfolded red rose on the grand rosebush
Photo: Parfumista (c)
|
Midsummer 2020 is when it comes to the weather, the best in 10+ years, +25 and warmer, sun and a light breeze, cooling off a bit. Maybe a short time for relief in these strange Covid-19 days, perfect for celebrating solstice outside.
Picture: A pink/red rose from a lower plant Photo: Parfumista (c) |
Picture: A budding Queen Elisabeth Photo: Parfumista (c) |
Picture: Light pink and minimalist roses from a wild rose bush
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Picture: Two varities of yellow roses sneeking in in this tribute
to their red relatives
Photo: Parfumista (c)
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tisdag 24 december 2019
The fragrances of Christmas Eve 2019
Picture: From the Christmastree Photo: Parfumista (c) |
Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn for the last sixtheen Christmas Eves:
2018: Rubj Extrait by Vero Kern (warm, glowing orange in spices and elegant white flowers)
2017: Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford (elegant retro but also contemporary austere flowery-green.)
2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody)
2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals)
2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote)
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy)
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)
Wish you a Great Fragrant Christmas!
lördag 23 november 2019
Puredistance - Gold
Picture: Gold as visual art, concept by Jan Ewoud Vos 2019 Photo: Puredistance (c) |
Gold is a part of the "sub" colour-line within the Puredistance Collection, all created by masterperfumer Antoine Lie. The colour-line started with Puredistance Black, followed with its contrast Puredistance White, is now completed with the intertwining Gold. Both Black and especially White have strokes of glowing and glimmering gold, and Gold itself is - as the name imply - the matte texture and aura of the material in different alloys interpreted to a scent. The position of Gold on the fragrance notescale, is between the dark, mysterious Black and the bright, happy, shining White. The tonality of the fragrance is also very well matched by the beautiful golden flacon in the white de luxe box.
Gold starts with a light herbal- cold - spicy touch, a fresh hint of something close to a soft scent of Juniper. After a while a candied mandarine appears, reminding me of the candied orange peel in Serge Lutens Bapteme du Feu, juicier in Gold, just as the mandarine pulp itself is candied. Some bright balsamic facets are also shining through early on, probably the myrrh as the impression is clean and a bit chilly. A slight dirty-clean accord is also present for a while, it's like washing a horse after a ride with a luxury schampoo. There is also a green almost rosy element involved, probably the geranium. In the next stage the balsamic notes steps forward, dominated by the velvety coldness of sappy myrrh. The balsamic notes are thick but not heavy at all, the mix is smooth and very well balanced. Later one there is an unexpected and alluring phase in the development: Just like as the balsamic accord suddenly becomes misty, like transforming to a swirling haze, maybe this expression is coming from the smoothness of tonka beans. In that haze, I can also smell strikes of a contrasting, illuminating freshness of vetiver. In the late stage in the dry down of Gold, a soft slight soapy, clean resinous texture appears.
In the overall impression of Gold there is (to my nose) some resemblance to classic Jean Patou Sublime, even if that one is oriental flowery and Gold is a balsamic oriental and also a smoother, richer, more accomplished creation.
Picture: Gold is a perfect glow in the dark and gloomy November, for me the optimal season for the Puredistance rich fragrances Photo: Puredistance (c) |
To sum it all up: Gold really smells amazing and I'm enjoying it very much. It's up in my personal top three of the Puredistances, sitting there together with Sheiduna and Warszawa. Gold is the best launch of 2019 from what I have smelled so far from new releases.
Notes: Mandarine, bergamot, pink pepper, clove, rosemary, jasmine, labdanum, geranium, cinnamon, styrax, benzoin, myrrh, patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean, castoreum, vetiver
Thaks to Puredistance Jan Ewoud Vos for the opportunity to try this beauty