Le Galion - Tubéreuse

Picture: Le Galion Tubéreuse
Photo: PR Le Galion (c)

Tubéreuse is one of the re-issued and re-constructued fragances of the french house Le Galion (more about that in the previous post). The original Tubéreuse was created 1937 by Paul Vacher and the current interpretation is performed by Thomas Fontaine.

Tubéreuse starts with a blast of fresh cut, white flowers with some of the crispy, green leaves also clearly present. The tuberose is dominating in the first stage but as Tubéreuse dries down, the fragrance developes, on the verge to, a  voluminous white floral bouquet with some sweet, almost fruity elements. Tubéreuse is fresh and innocent in style, there is neither an indolic interpretation of the flower, like Robert Piguet Fracas, nor a cold, earthy  and green interpretation of the contemporary style like L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubéreuse. The flowers are clean and clear, a (white) rose is another flower which steps forward in some passages, and a light spicy accords reinforces as Tubéreuse dries down. There is no powder or soap in the mix, and what it smells like is an uncomplicated, well balanced and very comfortable white bouquet composed with good ingredients. The delicious flowers rests on a musky, slight woody, ambery base balanced with an almost animalic note. The musky-animalic bases gives the fragrance a good longevity and medium silage.

Tubéreuse is very wearable white flower, suitable year around for daytime wearing. It's a bright and happy fragrance and it's reminds me in style of other white bouqet tuberoses such as Gianfranco Ferre signature fragrance with the same name, Oscar de la Renta Mi Corazon (both quite timeless in style), Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle (older and denser in style) and Ramón Monegal Kiss My Name (more contemporary in style).

Rating: 4

Notes: Mandarin, galbanum, pink pepper, pear; tuberose, rose, orange blossom, raspberry, cedar, amber, musk

Thanks to Fragance & Art for the sample to test

Made in Italy (2) - Lorenzo Villoresi - quick impressions

Picture: Landschaft mit Sonnenuntergang ca 1505
Painting by Giorgione (1477-1510)

About one and a half year ago I had a post regarding some interesting Italian perfumes from different perfumehouses. I really like the often dramatic, sometimes almost unpolished style of the italian perfumery. Below short impressions of some fragrances from Lorenzo Villoresi, a well-established, contemporary-classic house with quality fragrances to reasonable prices. Even if the fragrances differs in style, the LV house IMO is sort of the italian equivalent to the french Annick Goutal or Parfums de Nicolaï: Reaible fragranceinstutions of their respective country.

Donna: This is a true bombshell, intense floral fragrance in the great 1980s style. A fragrance for the brave, the diva who doesn't mind taking the center stage. Starts with a bold, sour, old fashioned, dark rose, that transforms to a beautiful slight creamy leathery-smoky-dark rose stage, almost the sort of creamy effect of the rose-oud-saffron combo that appears in some modern ouds like Montales Aoud Safran (swe), but in Donna without the oud. There is also just the right spicy carnation note supporting the rose and probably it's this combination that gives the creamy-leathery-smoky effekt. Later on, soft sandalwood and musky  notes smoothens and calms the fragrance a bit but the dark, smoky rose are still there, lurking in the blend. When I smell Donna, I'm glad that someone still has the courage to produce such an "unfashionable" and not at all easy to wear fragrance.

Alamut: This is much smoother and more pleasant than I've imaged from reading reviews of it. A bit powdery rosewood, the beautiful gunpowder note that is used but on a much higher volume in my favorite LV Teint de Neige. There is also polished orangeblossom notes, soft wood and spices which smells like an old wooden chest used to store spices for deacades. Alamut is the true image of a  member of the soft oriental fragrance family. Comforting, unobtrusive but still ever present during its dry down, a  cherishing fragrance for autumn and winter.

Sandalo: A velvet smooth, straight-forward, nutty sandalwood, not the sharp type of sandalwood (I think it's the australian grown type of sandalwood that contains the sharp notes). Reminds me of Etro Sandalo (swe) but less peppery in style. The Etro I refer to is an older formula than the one sold now which I havn't sniffed. LV Sandalo is a very good canditate for those who seeks for a singlenote sandalwood for the fragrance wardrobe.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian - Masculin Pluriel

Picture: "The Dandy king",
Joachim Murat (1767-1815),  King of Naples etc
Portrait by Francois Gérard (1770-1837)

Masculin Pluriel created by one of my favorite perfumers Francis Kurkdjian for his own house, is the masculine counterpart to one of the very best feminine perfumes of 2014 Féminin Pluriel. Just as the latter, Kurkdjian in Masculin Pluriel interprets a classical theme in a contemporary setting but still retains the timeless expression of the fragrance.

Masculin Pluriel starts with a beautiful note of lavender on a light, woody background. The lavendernote is the featured note during the rest of the dry down and it shows off a bit different at different stages, influenced by the surrounding and supporting notes. Masculin Pluriel is truly aromatic, lighter in the begining and darker in the later stages. The woody notes never get sharp or chemical and interacting with the herbal notes, the fragrance explore both dark and light accords, bitter and even if an overall non-sweet fragrance, there are some sweet elements, I can smell some woody vanilla, the vanillic note coming from wood, in the middle of the fragrance. There is also a very light, smoky element present in the fragrance but it's almost not detectable as smoke, there is absolutely nothing sharp or offending about it. The patchouli in the base are dark and desert-dry, like dried patchoulileaves, no moisty texture but anyway it lends a slight earthy impression to the mix. The patchouli blends perfectly and highlighting the deep and dark facets of the lavender, here the lavender reminds me partly of the lavendernote of Vero Profumo Kiki Extrait. There is something, the bitter, slight smoky impression, in Masculin Pluriel that reminds me of  the new By Kilian "extreme" Smoke for the Soul where Masculin Pluriel is the polished, elegant and wearable one. I read on Fragrantica that the fragrance trend for the coming years are woodsy and piny notes, as for example birch and likely  there is room for woody-aromatic fragrances in this trend which Masculi Pluriel and Smoke for the Soul could be some of the forerunners to. Another fragrance that comes to my mind testing Masculin Pluriel is the classic Aramis Tuscany (vintage) even if that one is bold and big compared to the former.

Picture: Masculin Pluriel
Photo: PR Maison Francis Kurkdjian (c)

Masculin Pluriel is an elegant, understated, very wearable choice for daytime officewear. There is something dandy-ish over the whole composition. The longevity is very good, for over a day and the fragrance is suitable for every season except the warmest summermonths. As Masculin Pluriel is a very well constructed and easy to wear fragrance, it should have been included in my best of 2014 list if I had tested it properly on myself and on Mr Parfumista before year end.

Rating: 5

Notes: Lavender, cedar, patchouli, vetiver, leather, woody notes

Best of 2014

Picture: Grape hyacinths in spring 2014
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Best of 2014 is not an easy post to write (and should not be as long as the perfume industry has not collapsed compleatly :-) as I have tried a bunch of good fragrances released in the market this year. And as usual, I've just tested a fraction of the thousend+ releases on the international market.

Best Feminine:
Vero Profumo Rozy Voile d'Extrait, an retro styled but still contemporary deep, balsamic, oriental rose.
Close contenders: My Burberry and Maison Francis Kurkdjian Féminin Pluriel both contemporary, beutiful floral interpretations by Francis Kurkdjian, the former a  though, urban flower, the latter a contemporary but in the same time timeless flower creation. Le Galion Iris a magnificent, iris-lily dominated floral bouquet, review will follow in January 2015.

Best Masculine:
Le Galion Special for Gentleman, an elegant, retrostyled, very masculine aromatic/chypre.
Close contenders: Oriza L.Legrand Vétiver Royal Bourbon  unisex but leaning IMO to the masculine side. Chalky, brisk, light green vetiver, nautral smelling with some traces of Terre d'Hermes, the chalky tone. By Kilian Smoke for the soul doesn't suit me personally but the fragrance is very original and innovative to be a member of the Kilian line. Therefore it's the stand out in the "The addicted state of mind" trio.

For both:
Serge Lutens L'Orpheline is totally unisex to me, fits equally fits equally well for me as for Mr Parfumista. It's a fragrance that is a growing liking for me. I like it much better worn in colder tempratures than when tested it last summer for the review. A new and appealing interpretation of incense. Frapin Nevermore, this decades interpretation of the iconic dark rose of the 1990s; L'Artisan Voleur de Roses. Nevermore is leaning to the masculine side but I admit I notice a growing appreciation to wear it myself.

Disappointments of the year:
Both are very good fragrances but apparently in practice the don't fit me even if they should, in theory.
Editions Parfums Frederic Malle Eau de Magnolia: Even if a well constructed fragance and probably a hit commercial, it's just too shrill to me, and honestly, to me this fine fragrance is boring in the long run.
Cartier La Panthere: Probably I havn't tested it enough, but even if well constructed etc it doesn't leave a lasting impression, I can't remember at all how it smells.

Wishing you a great New Years Eve and a Happy New 2015!

Maison Nicolas de Barry - L'Eau de Shah Jahan

Picture: Shah Jahan (1592-1666)
Wikimedia commons

Even if it's a true unisex fragrance, it's obvious to me that L'eau de Shah Jahan is cretaed to be the masculine counterpart to the beautiful and bombastic L'eau de Mumtaz i-Mahal which was reviewd earlier in December. Shah Jahan is just as the Mumtaz created by Nicolas de Barry and Eddy Blanchet.

L'eau de Shah Jahan also starts with the rubbery rose oil accord as Mumtaz i-Mahal but less dominating and distinct. Soon fruits pickled in a liqueur-brandy like accord appears, the rose steps backwards but is discretly present in the rest of the dry down. The boozy fruits is the distinguishing theme when Shah Jahan is compared with Mumtaz i-Mahal, both has the same characteristic sandalwood, oud and what I think is the note of nagarmotha as basenotes and "frame". And of course the fragrances should complement each other very close, just as Shah and his favorite wife Mumtaz once did. To me L'eau de Shah Jahan is a true oriental version, at least as I, from my limited experience with the Arabian Oud perfumed oils, imagine true orientals, of the western woody oriental Serge Lutens Boxeuses, which compared with Shah Jahan of course seems almost anorectic, but the pickled fruits and the boozy notes is a common theme. Another western styled woody oriental that comes to my mind when testing Shah Jahan is Parfums Delrae Bois de Paradis.

Picture: The sofisticated bottle of L'Eau de  Shah Jahan
Photo: PR Maison Nicolas de Barry (c)

Shah Jahan has a distinct silage even if not as grand as the rosy Mumtaz i-Mahal. Longevity is just as the latter about 24h and Shah Jahan is also best for festive occasions or in very small doses, also for cold and grey winter days. This is not the fragrance for the workplace with the least tendency to scentophobia.

Rating: 4
This as I prefer the roses of the Mumtaz this one i 5 rated and Shah Jahan 4, but if I had preferred fruits better the rating would be reversed as the fragrances are so similar

Notes: Rose, sandalwood, oud

 As mentioned above I also recognize booze, fruits and nagarmotha


Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to try

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My Christmas Eve fragrance

Picture: A winterrose. Also this year Christamas
is green and some roses are almost blooming.
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Time for the regular Christmas Eve post:. Scent of Christmas Eve 2014 is my favourite iris - Impossible Iris from Ramon Monegal. Suits this green, sunny and, after some rainy weeks, cold Christmas Eve. The chilly iris is enlightened by mimosa and rasberry which gives the formal iris an less severe expression. Mr Parfumistas SOTD is an old Classic, Santos de Cartier vintage version, suits well with its light note of  cinnamon.  Last year, also a green Christmas, was Chypre Mousse from Oriza L.Legrand. 
Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn the last eleven Christmas Eves:

2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy)
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)

I wish all of you a Great Christmas and as I'm very curious to know what you are wearing for Christmas, feel free to leave a comment.
 

Maison Nicolas de Barry - L`eau de Mumtaz-i Mahal

Picture: Empress consort Mumtaz Mahal (1593-1631)
Mughal painting from 17th or 18th Century
Wikimedia commons

L`eau de Mumtaz-i Mahal is a deep, oriental-floral fragrance  created of  Nicolas de Barry and Eddy Blanchet for the perfumehouse of the former, Maison Nicolas de Barry which creates perfumes inspired from the history. Nicolas de Barry has also created the historic inspired line Les Parfums Historiques for Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier George Sand and La Reine Margot, which both also are released in the Maison Nicolas de Barry - line. Later i.e next year I'm planning to review those  (thanks to samples from Fragrance & Art) and compare to the MPG issues.

L`eau de Mumtaz-i Mahal, in the following LMM, is of course dedicated to the cause of the construction of  Tai Mahal - the beloved third wife (the favorite)  of indian ruler Shah Jahan,  Mumtaz Mahal.

LMM, starts with an accord of wonderful, rubbery, roseoil with some light green elements glimpsing through. This is the rubbery rose that is also present in Annick Goutal Rose Splendide but much more rich and dense in LMM and with less of the tart greenery of the Goutal. The rubbery rose is also present in Montale Tai'f Roses but less sweet and sharper. In the Montale I imagine the rose as medium red, in texture as a stiff silk fabric as in a robe form the 14-15th century, in LMM it's medium pink with a silk, velvet finish. As LMM developes a pleasant boozy element appears as also an well integrated spicyaccord. The beautiful blend is anchored in a base of smooth sandalwood which has nothing sharp or chemical about it, it smells like a smooth piece of sandalwood, polished with sandpaper.  I also smell a gentle oud and a note I think is nagarmotha from the base.

LMM has a tickness and dept which are rare in western perfumery today, even the most expensive nichefragrances seems thinned and volatile compared with LMM. LMM has similarities in the style and smell with some oils I have tried from Arabian Oud and also with the very good but not often mentioned Aramis Perfume Calligraphy Rose which is sort of a western styled diet variation of LMM. There is also a kinship in texture and expression with Vero Profumo Rozy Voile d'Extrait.

LMM is a fragrance for the colder months of the year but I can imagine it also blooms beautiful in the indian night. Silage is grand when applied but medium when dried down to the basenotes, longevity for 24h. A very special fragrance, strong and intensive, it has to be applied carefully. Great for festive occasions as for example New Years celebration.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, sandalwood (according to the notelist but I smell att least Spices, boozy notes oud and nagarmotha in the blend)