Parfumerie Générale - Grand Siècle Intense 7.1

Picture: Grand Siècle Intense
Photo: PR Parfumerie Générale (c)

Grand Siècle Intense 7.1 is the just released, fourth fragrance in the Signature Collection of Parfumerie Générale, collection which Pierre Guillaume started to create 2012 to mark the 10th anniversary of Parfumerie Générale that year. The collection will capture Pierres development as a perfumer and offers different interpretations of some of the Parfumerie Générale perfumes from the past. The Signature Collection is only avaible at Parfumerie Générales own website.

Grand Siècle Intense is a follower to the very natural smelling bitter citrus cologne Cologne Grand Siècle in which Pierre Guillaume was inspired by the court of the Sun King Louis XIV in the seventeenth century and the few and pure ingredients which then was avaible to the parfumer. 

Grand Siècle Intense starts with natural smelling bitter citrus and green notes. A realistic and refreshing, slight fizzy note of mint leaves appears after a while. This mint is also present in the original Maroocan Mint tea inspired Harmatan Noir 11, but in this fragrance, blended with smokey, spicy almost metallic notes. The minty note is also present in the easier to wear Noir Marine from the Phaedon line. Grand Siècle Intense goes on with green-woody notes, with the sparkilng green of cypress over light woods, fresh moss and a well intergrated vetiver. The cypress slightly reminds me of the sparkling green in Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien. A slight smokey touch also appears and glimpses of a very fine leather also appears and in the basenotes there is also a light, well rounded sweetness, probably the honey, which prevent the fragrance from beeing too aromatic in style.Just as in Cologne Grand Siècle there are no harsh or artifical smelling notes which seems to be quite common in cheaper aromatic/citrus fragrances. As usual with Parfumerie Générale this is high quality stuff and it's a smooth, delightful and easy to wear fragrance. Grand Siècle Intense is, just as it's forerunner, with its close sillage, perfect both for casual and office wear in spring and summer. The only drawback, just as with the cologneversion, is the longevity. Even if I applied liberally, I have to reapply every two-three hours and 75% of my 2 ml sample was gone after one wearing. On the other hand, I have dry skin so this is probably not a common problem.

Comparing the two Grand Siècle versions, Cologne Grand Siècle is more of a cologne in style (even if not fully) with citrusy, lemony notes and also with a for the fragrance characteristic note of a hard citruspastille. In  Grand Siècle Intense the cologne inspired theme is most present in the early stage of the fragrance, later it's more of a citiric, green, light woody aromatic perfume. Both fragrances are unisex even if the cologne IMO is leaning a bit more to the masculine side and the Intense is just neutral.

Rating: 4 (if rating how it smells, its structure and quality of ingredients), 3 (if taken the longevity issues in consideration)

Notes: Bergamot, bitter orange, lemon leaves, mint, cypress, vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, tobacco absolute, hay, honey

Van Cleef & Arpels - Un Air de First

Picture: Jasminum sambac 'Grand Duke of Tuscany'
Photo: Scott Zona (cc) some rights reserved, Wikimedia Commons

Un Air de First is a new interpretation by perfumer Nathalie Gracia-Cetto to celebrate the 35th anniversery of the first Van Cleef & Arpels fragence, the classic First created by Jean-Claude Ellena.

Un Air de First is a proper name for this fragrance, it is airier and cleaner than the original during the whole developement of the fragrance. It starts aldehydic, flowery, green but the flowers are fruity and bright compared to the soapy and heavier flowers of First. I also pervieve the flowers of Un Air de First as perdominantly clean and white (even the rose is white) wheras Firsts flowers are heavier and with a higher degree of yellow flowers. Pretty soon in the drydown, a note that almost smells like fresh tobacco appears in  Un Air de First. Galbanum is als glimpsing but not as noticable as in First. Later on the tobacco is lit and a clean note of cigarettesmoke appears accompanying the jasmine. The notemix is not at all dirty as in Etat Libre d'Orange Jasmine et Cigarettes but it's not as dry and subtle as in M.Micallef Royal Vintage, it's more round and fruity. Un Air de First continues to dry down in a lipsticky, aldehydic flowery manner and is underscored by a musky slight woody base.

Picture. Un Air de First
Photo: PR Van Cleef & Arpels (c)

Un Air de First has succeded to perserve the spirit of the original, just as Balmain with the new interpretation of Ivoire where the new version is fruitier and brighter than the original. The fact that the spirit of First is perserved is also proved by Mr Parfumistas comments about a " much too ladylike scent". I think Un Air de First is sort of contemporary ladylike and as it's very strong, one have to be careful with application, it is not airy=light. The sillage is great and as also the longevity, about 24h.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Galbanum, Peach, Fruity Notes, Jasmine, Rose, Green Notes, Vetiver, White Musk

By Kilian - Imperial Tea

Picture: Flower close up of Jasminum officinale
Photo: B.traeger (cc) some rights reserved, Wikimedia Commons

Imperial Tea is the other of the two latest releases in the By Kilian Asian Tales Collection, a collection with transparent, elegant and relaxing fragrances of high quality ingredients. Even if delicate in style, the Asian Tales fragrances have good lastingpower and sillage to be modern, light compositions. The Asian Tales line IMO is especially good for spring and summer. Imperial Tea is created by Claice Becker with the intention to recreate the olfactive impression of  a freshly brewed cup of exquisite jasmine tea.

Imperial Tea starts with a beautiful, very natural smelling jasmine, which is sparkling, light and uplifiting. After a while a contrasting almost green a bit tart, chalky note appears which remainds me of the smell in the oyster colored Jugendstyled bathroom of my grandmother. This note, is also present for a while in By Kilian Playing with The Devil and just a tad denser also in Vanille Tonka from Parfums de Nicolaï. When Imperial Tea dries down, it is obvious that  the jasmine is not as clean as the initial impression. In the middlenotes the animalic undertone of jasmine appears, contrasting the cleaner notes just as the chalky note persist. The teanote of Imperial Tea is subtle and just accompaning the jasmine. It is a light, gentle, white teanote, like silver tip tea and there is absolutely non of the for many teafragrances typical harsh, wet wipe note. The teanote of Imperial Tea is the best subtle teanote that I have smelled in perfume so far. In the basenotes, Imperial Tea becames darker in its tonality but the wellbalanced jasmine, tea, green chalky, slight animalic combo still persists.

Picture Bai Hao Yin Zhen tea leaves (white tea)
Photo: lateasquirrel (cc) some rights reserved, Wikipedia Commons

Imperial Tea is perfect for sipping white tea in a blooming jasmine bower a warm early summer day. It's a casual chic fragrance, perfect for daytime wear and is also very suitable for office. Compared to the other By Kilian which feature jasmine, Love and Tears, Imperial Tea is more minimalistic and less flowery in style. Both fragrances are classied as unisex and to my nose Love and Tears leaning more to the feminine side than Imperial Tea which is positioned in the middle but also slight more feminine. Longevity is for a day, if freely applied, the sillage is close, a true wristsniffer. This is a must have for summer :-)

Rating: 5

Notes: Jasmine, tea

By Kilian - Sacred Wood

Picture: Santalum Album in Hyderabad
Photo: J.M Garg (cc) some rights reserved,
Wikimedia Commons

Sandalwood perfumes are a tricky fragrance cathegory for me. The iconic  Guerlain Samsara is too bold for me (even if my friend Fragrancefanatic have some anosmic problems with it), the heavy sandalwood + curry(?) Serge Lutens Santal de Mysore which is the only fragrance so far that has caused me an allergic reaction, Parfums Frederic Malle Dries van Noten is a bit too sweet and almondcookie like too remind me of the real wood. Etro Sandalo (old version) is good but maybe a bit too dense. And so one could go on... Until now, when I have found my ideal sandalwood (so far): By Kilian Sacred Wood from the Asian Tales Collection, as most Kilians created by Calice Becker. CB is well known for her excellent floral interpretations but apparently she is also a champion of woods. As a composition Sacred Wood is built around the olfactive impression of Mysore Sandalwood. This sandalwood is prohibited to use because of over-exploitation and a similar accord has been  reconstituted in Sacred Wood.

Sacred Wood starts with delicious sparkling, transparent sandalwood. The cocosaccent in the sandalwood is distinct in the operning and is almost flowery and reminicent of the cocoslike note in tubereuse. Soon there is also a tart, slight, fizzy but in the same time smooth and milky green note contrasting the sandalwood. The milky green note reminds me of fig, not a listed note but the effect is similar. The sandalwood, tart milky fig combination persists during the whole dry down of Sacred Wood but as longer the fragrance dries down the more prominent the sandalwood is. In the later basenotes, the impression is of solid, warm sandalwood.

Picture: Sacred Wood By Kilian
Photo: PR By Kilian (c) 

Sacred Wood somehow reminds me of a woody Annick Goutal Ninféo Mio and is just as this dark green.figgy  fragrance, a perfect companion for summer. Even if transparent in texture, Sacred Wood is a powerful fragrance that lasts for almost 24h and has a medium sillage. Its warmth makes it also nice to wear during the colder month. Sacred Wood is suitable both for work and festive occasions, an elegant,  sandalwood in a contemporary but in the same time timeless interpretation.

Rating: 5

Notes: Sandalwood oil, milk, wood, spices

Fragrances for Easter

Picture: Easter postcard early 20th century
Wikipeda Commons

During the years my Easterfragrances mostly have been from the following cathegories: Incense, gourmand or green. This year therefore I'll feature one favorite from each category that will fit for Easter in some sense.

Passage d'Enfer (L'Artisan Parfumeur): The well balanced incensenote combined with an elegant white lily gives me associations of a cathedral in Easter. Rays of springlight flowing through the high, gotic windows and the voices from the choir is rises towards the gotic arches.

Imperial Tea (ByKilian):Technically this is of course not a gourmand but as I've a bit stomach ache and less appetite than usual, nothing really gourmand attracts me at the moment. It does however this refreshing and calming jasminetea fragrance. Review will follow next week.

Déjà de Printemps (Oriza L. Legrand): What could be more springlike green than the crisp and fresh leaves of springtime bulbflowers, fresh grass and glimpses of Lily of the Vally. Déjà de Printemps captures a just blooming springgarden perfectly.

Happy Easter!

A reminder about Mohur....

Photo; Mr Parfumista (c)

It seems as when I reviewed the beautiful Mohur Extrait from Neela Vermiere in september last year, it was not yet widely released. The broader launch was some weeks ago at Esxence 2014, information from Lucas on Chemist in a Bottle, read his very well written report from the event here.

Mohur Extrait is my favorite from Neela and I was reminded of its dark, rosy, velvet, golden, purple revelation when trying the airy, silk, silver, purple rose from Parfumerie Générale, Isparta 26 lately. Mohur Extrait could be a perfect companion in the coming Easter, especially on the serene and sad Good Friday as the fragrance is a calming and perfect for the contemplative mood. Here is the link to the full review of  Mohur Extrait.

Maria Candida Gentile - Burlesque

Picture: Perfumer Maria Candida Gentile
started to create her own rosewater as a little girl.
Photo: This cute photo of Maria is published on her website
(c) Maria Candida Gentile

The initial impression of Burlesque is like a candied iris accord, enhanced by dark, balsamic notes. There are also swirls of a light incense which performs in an almost sweet woody accord, for a while this part smells like wood from a juniper bush. Burlesque smehow reminds me of a balanced and non-excessive L'Artisan Explotions D'Emontions Skin on Skin. Later on, there is a light cosmetic note shining through in Burlesque, combined with a touch of gunpowder. There is something that reminds me a bit of a clean interpreation of Etat Libre d'Orange Putain des Palaces. The longer in the drydown, the more the beautiful blended patchoulinote comes forward. The patchouli is warm, smooth a bit sweet and almost light herbal. There are absoluetly no harsh or dusty impression from the patchouli. Burlesque is my favorite from the three tested from the Exclusive Collection, very pleasant and in the same time intresting to wear during a whole workday. As a perfume the sillage is close, a real wristsniffer where interesting things going on. Longevity about a day. 

Rating: 5

Notes: Blood orange, iris, rose, patchouli, incense

Thanks to Fragance & Art for the sample to test