DoubleYou - Zanzibar

Picture: Cloves, important commodity of Zanzibar,

 Photo by ? (cc), Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

Zanzibar is one of the two first fragrances from the Norwegian perfumehouse DoubleYou  founded by Catherine Rösseland 2010. Carherine has her roots in both Norway and in Western Africa as her father derived from Tanzania. Zanzibar mirrors that part of Catherines heritage as the other fragrance, Norvège is inspired of Norway and Catherines origin on her mothers side. Zanzibar and Norvège is intended to be worn separate or layered. The fragrances are created in colaboration with the perfumer Barnabe Fillion and they are said to contain only natural ingredients. The latter I doubt as there is very unusual that a fragrance contains 100 % naturals.The notelist below also supports my argument, since when is "leather" a natural? But there are undoubtly a high precentage of naturals in the blends as:

Sampling Zanzibar I was immediately aware of the clear presence of nautrals by the, to natural perfumes, typical slight sour, compact note. This note is present during the whole dry down but it's in no way repellent, on the contrary it fits the concept. Zanzibar is a warm and spicy perfume, to my nose the clove plays a central role, it reminds me of the smell of the Maja soaps from the house of Myrurgia. In the topnotes of Zanzibar I also smell something reminiscent of the smell of the traditional swedish dish boiled crawfish in dill broth.

As a natural perfume, Zanzibar reminds me of some of the perfumes of Liz Zorn that I have sampled. The typical natural note is present in both lines and overall they convays a similar expression. As I'm not so versed in natural perfumes my references are limited when trying to compare Zanzibar to other perfumes in this genere. But as I like some of Liz Zorns offerings as Grand Canyon and Oud Laquer, which dosen't have that typical smell of  naturalperfume. That is also the case with my favourite natural perfumeline La via del Profumo with for instance Mecca Balsam. Compared to that beautiful oriental natural fragrance Zanzibar, even if unusual, has some to catch up. I think that my rating is influnced by the fact that I'm not so used to natural perfumes. I think that someone more in to this genre will appreciate this blend much more than I'm.

Rating: 2+

Notes: Geranium, clove, leather, oak, siam- and cedar wood, rose, cardamom,  black currantbuds, ginger, cinnamon, sandalwood

Hassler Roma - Amorvero

Photo: Dinner at The Hassler´,

(c) Hotel Hassler, Roma

Amorvero is created by the italian nose Lorenzo Dante Ferro to catch the aura and the spirit of the posh, five star Hotel Hassler Roma, with traditions back in the nintheen century.

The discrete charm of Amorvero is perfectly catching the spirit of an establishment as Hotel Hassler. Amorvero opens as a classical oriental with bergamot and citrusy notes followed by distinctive ambery- floral elements. Something reminds me of the smell of understated, luxary soap that are present in first class hotels like Hassler. Despite the soapy association Amorvero isn't particulary soapy in it's drydown. The scent is somehow fleeting in it's texture. I'm trying the EDT version and as I understand, the EDP and perfume versions have more body and are more close to the skin. To me Amorvero EDT is a wearable daytime oriental that also can be worn in summerevenings without the risk of become cloying. Perfect for a romantic candellight dinner a warm summerevening in the eternal city.

There is something in the spirit of Amorvero that reminds me of Guerlains Vol de Nuit EDT, in some of the latest, but not the latest, formulation. As VdN is sharper and has more of a aldehydic irisy feeling, Amorvero smells more of ambery-wrapped white flowers and is softer, warmer, rounder and more sweet in it's character. The ackords of white flowers and oriental notes seems to be seamless and the blend is very well rendered. The sample of Amorvero EDT comes from Fragrance & Art

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, citrus, mandarine, jasmine, tuberose, rose, sandalwood, vanilla, amber

Gianluca Bulega - Amami per Sempere

Picture: Teatro alla Scala by night.

Photo by: o2ma (cc), Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

To me Amami per Sempere from italian fashiondesigner Gianluca Bulega is just a slight smoother and timid version of Krizias discontinued Teatro alla Scala but la Scala is more distinct in it's apperance.

Amami per Sempere starts with sparkling citrusy notes, followed by a heart of a floral oriental carachter. The basenotes are warm, a nice vanilla accompanied by sandalwood and darker traces of patchouli. Thera are also a part of the base that reminds me of  Estee Lauders Youth Dew. ApS is a warm and creamy scent that suits many occasions. The longevity is outstanding, I can smell the basenotes on my wrist 24 h after application and at this stage there are some liqueury notes comming through.

ApS is a nice scent but on the other hand it's also totaly forgettable and without it's own carachter. The only thing I remember after wearing this is it's similarities with Teatro alla Scala. This annoys me during the whole wearing of ApS, to the high price it commands it shouldn't be a weak copy of the bold Teatro alla Scala. Due to it's similarities to Teatro alla Scala, Amami per Sempere qualify to it's rating, it smells good. Taken the high price in account (almost EUR 200 on sale) and the annoying fact that it is almost a copy of old alla Scala it probably deserves a lower rating. All this matters weighted against each other ends up in:

Rating: 3

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, iris, rose, jasmine, narcissus, white flowers, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla 

Unsorted perfume thoughts February 2012

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Unsorted thoughts in my perfumeoriented mind:

- What a relief that January is over. I had promised myself only testing/using samples and I always keep promises :-) I have so longed for using my bottles that have waiting for me. Now I'm free to wear them even if testing from samples will be the main activity in February as well. And as today I'm still sampling... Maybe 2012 will be the year draining the samples...
- I think the lesson above is very enlighting: It  it makes me really appreciate my collection. But on the other hand; sampling also raises new temptations and thats one of the trills in testing perfume.
- The other day I passed through the perfumesection at the local department store and in passing sprayed the latest Versace Yellow Diamond: Citrusy-fruity-chemichal hell, I immadiately had to find a paperbin to throw the horrible scent strip away. I liked the first one Crystal Noir quite well, is neutral to Bright Crystal. How could this disaster happen?
-Two - three weeks ago, winter has finally caught us up in this nordic outpost. Strangly enough I don't yearn for my oriental lieblings. Instead I'm mostly stucked in heavy florals and Vero Kerns Kiki Edp which is just beautiful.
- Looking into my tweets there are much MPG testing the latest month. This house is a growing liking to me. Even if I have appreciated some of it's fragrances for many years I now have started to appreciate the different themes of the house. Earlier I was much more simplistic.
- A few days ago I've re-tested By Kilians clean and realistic jasmine Love and Tears, Surrender. It's just as beautiful as when i tried it last spring/summer. If not better as it lasts very well, without falling apart, more than twelve hours in the cold weather (- 10 C).  Love it!
- Yesterday I was wearing Teo Cabanels Alahine, a sweet, almost licqouary floral oriental that developes excellent in the cold (-15 C) snowy, weather. Maybe I turn into the orientals at last.

Isabey - L'Ambre de Carthage

Picture: Ruins of the Punic Quarter on the Byrsa hill, Carthage.

Photo: BishkekRocks, (cc) Wikimedia Commons.

From the description of L'Ambre de Carthage, it seems that the 2011 introduced fragrance  is a reworking of a Isabey oriental from 1924. The fragrance is intended to be "pour homme" but to me L'AdC is totally unisex.

When first applied L'AdC somehow reminds me of Dune by Dior. Later in the drydown there is also similarities with Scent Intense by Costume National but L'AdC is more ambery and has no special characteristics as SI:s the- and hibiscusnotes. L'AdC to me is a typical, contemporary, resiny amber, with some incense and I also think I can sniff my good friend mr Ambrox in the mixture. Nice blend but very conventional. Nothing like my favourite ambers, the two opposite interpretations of  amber: The dark, dirty, animalic  L'Ombre Fauve from Parfumerie Generale or the sparkling, crackling dry, gunpowdery Les Nombres d'Or Ambre from Mona di Orio.

L'AdC is a well-behaved and well balanced blend of good quality. It is wearable in various situations during the cold season and for evenings during the summer. L'AdC has a good sillage and the longivety is at least twelve hours. But despite all it's merits, L'AdC doesn't move me at all. Sample from good ol' Aus Liebe zum Duft

Rating: 3

Notes: Bergamot, labdanum, osmanthus, jasmin, amber, olibanum, sandalwood, patchouli

Vero Profumo - Kiki EDP

Picture: Lavendel in the fall of 2011.

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Vero Kerns Kiki starts with a beautiful, bright, clean and sparkling lavendel which after a while blends with the characteristic slight tart scent of passionfruit. I can recognize the note from Maïtre Parfumeur et Gantiers Fraiche Passiflore but in that scent it is lighter and more flowery, which of course not is that suprising, featuring that name. The note of passionfruit  I'll also recognise from Veros Rubj and Onda EDP which also highlights the passionfruit and it somehow smells like the pulp of the fruit,. As Kiki drys down the note of passiflore deepens and mingle with the noble note of lavendel, some hints of brisk geranium and a well balanced patchouli that bases the notes. In this stage that lasts the rest of the day, Kiki has reached its perfection as Angel Lavandula.

Something that fascinates me with Kiki is that I can still smell clear whiffs of the clean and bright lavendel sixteen hours after application. At that stage it would not be surprising if the patch had taken over the show but instead it supports the lavendel in a balanced way. Kiki is in the same spirit as Serge Lutens Gris Clair and there are some similarities in notes, the clean and bright lavendel is the most obvious. But as Gris Clair to me are more masculine in it's character, featuring incense and harsher notes, Kiki, with it's passionfruit and patch is the feminine version.

Kiki is a true comfortscent that lasts the whole day and remains unfragmented, a perfect companion during cold winterdays, especially on Mondays I have noticed.The paring of lavendel, passionflower and patchouli seems quite unusual but is in this case a perfect match.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, citron, passionfruit, lavendel, geranium, musk, patchouli, caramel

Huitième Art - Ambre Ceruleen

Bild: Chinese Crested Dog - Powderpuff

Foto: Tommy Gildseth (cc) Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

For summary in english, scroll down. 

Känns som den gode Pierre Guillaume haft lite för bråttom är han blandat ihop Ambre Ceruleen. I och för sig en helt annan stil en hans utmanande L'Ombre Fauve (se review häromdagen) för Parfumerie Générale Private Collection men ändå. En lätt och ljus, lite retropudrig ambra som efter toppnoterna stannar kvar i samma ackord resten av dagen. Mysig och mjuk som en angoratröja att burra in sig i en kall dag men doften tillför ingenting. Tankarna går till Molinards Ambre när det gäller framtoningen, men Molinards Ambre är mer originell med sin kristalliserade, karamellnot. Även Pradas Candy dyker upp i den inre biografen, men den är i mitt tycke mer intressant som helhet. Konstigt nog anges inte ambra som ingrediens men ambra ackord tas fram av variationer på orientaliska ackord, här finns benzoin, tonkaböna och sandelträ. Labdanum och cistus är, om jag inte missminner mig, komponenter som brukar finnas med i mörkare ambraackord.

Summa sumarum: Ambre Ceruleen är en helt ok lätt ambradoft, icke påträngande och bärbar överallt, när som helst, utom när det är varmt på sommaren. Provet kommer från Fragrance & Art

Over all Ambre Ceruleen is a quite ok light amberstyled scent, non-intrusive and wearable anywhere, anytime, except when it is hot in the summer. The clean and innocent Ambre Ceruleen is the direct opposite to PG:s dirty amber L'Ombre Fauve, reviewed earlier this week. Ambre Ceruleen has some similarities with Molinards Ambre but I think that one is more interesting with it's caramelized note. Also Pradas Candy comes to my mind but as more complex and interesting than the well-adjusted, well-blended, cute, angora puffy Ambre Ceruleen. Ambre Ceruleen is a good choice to those who want at light, proper and clean amber that is comforting and doesn't disturb anyone. The sample tested comes from Fragrance & Art 

Rating: 3

Noter: Verbena, tonkabönor, sandelträ, opoponax /verbena, tonkabeen, sandalwood, opoponax