Serge Lutens - L'Eau Froide

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

L'Eau Froide is the second release in the controversial Eau-line of Serge Lutens. Controversial as SL is famous for its distinctive contemporary oriental style even if the house haven't been totally faithful to the initial theme during the receant years. L'Eau Froide is inspired of the smell of the snow and the frozen ground just about when it starts to melt in the late winter.

L'Eau Froide starts with an evident citrus detergentnote followed by an infusion of a crispy, icy incensenot. The citrusnote (even if citrus is not listed) is more pronounced than the opening of the first creation of the Eau-line, L'Eau Serge Lutens. The citrusnote is similar to the one in DoubleYou Norvége  and MPG Eau de Camelia Chinois and I have started to wonder if this is a new note, created to be complinat to the IFRA citrusrestrictions. After a while a fresh pinenote comes forward, pine seems to be fashionable this days. The note is evident also in Annic Goutals Nuit Etoliée , but contrary to the cold L'Eau Froide, I precive Nuit Etolieé as a warm fragrance. At the pine-phase of L'Eau Froide I can recognize a similarity to the pine and incense in Olivier Durbanos Black Tourmaline but both notes are more pronounced and according to my opinion better executed in Black Tourmaline.

When L'Eau Froide reaches the basenotes something very familiar appears after a while: The vegetal base of the particular flowery SL Nuit de Cellophane. This vegetal baseaccord are deepen as L'Eau Froide drys down and it's mainly accompanied by the opening citrus and with some pale wiffs of the cold incense.

L'Eau Froide smells good but I prefer the vegetal base paired with flower as in Nuit de Cellophane. I percieve the scent as a mix of distinctive elements from L'Eau de Serge and Nuit de Cellophane paired with incense. L'Eau Froide is an ideal officescent wearable year around but preferably for spring and summer.

Rating: 3

Notes: Olibanum, seawater, mint, incense, musk, vetiver

Perfumed thoughts April 2012

Earlier this week I thought that this weekend would be the right time to publish my list of Spring-Spring perfumes in my serie Spring fragrances, see the earlier post Winter-Spring fragrances. But then Jack Frost returned for the weekend and I lost all the inspiration. But as always there is some perfumed thoughts:

* As the Robert Piguet fragrances is an old love to me I'm really looking forward to the release of the  five fragrances in the Nouvelle Collection created by the Piguet "house-nose"Aurélien Guichard at Givaudan: Bois Noir, Casbah, Mademoiselle Piguet, NoteS and Oud. Earlier, expect from Douglas Hannant by Robert Piguet, the house in collaboration with perfumer Aurélien Guichard  has new-interpreted their old classics Visa, Baghari, Calypso and Futur. Bandit, Fracas and Cravache I think are "regulary" reformulations of the original Germaine Cellier creations. The Nouvelle Collection will be tested and reviewed later if I can get my hands of some samples.

* Another release I have read about but are not sure it will be this year is some new fragrances from Vero Kern, Vero Profumo. As I love Rubj, Onda (swedish) and Kiki I know Vero will deliver.

* I'm also not sure about if or when the perfume/perfumes Mona di Orio was working on when she passed away in December 2011 will be released. As a great admier of Mona, although it is so deeply tragic, I'm waiting of the privilege to take part of her final creation(s).

* There is so many interesting fragrances around and it's hard to select what is worth to sample. As Denyse at Grain the Musc wrote in her post (controversial as she argues about the consequenses of the sharp increase of perfumebloggers)  Enchanted, disenchanted she can't waste time trying out scents that don't challange her. Therefore her strategy is almost only to test and review creations from houses/noses that she know almost always delivers from her point of view. I will try to practice this rule in the future, and I already do that (without thinking of it)  to some extent, but it's not a a planned strategy of mine. As I have many already written reviews "in stock" the mix of favouritehouse/noses and other will remain within the foreseeable future.

That's my perfumed thoughts by now :-)

Huitième Art - Sucre d'Ebene

Bild: Venezuelan sugar cane (Saccharum) harvested for processing

Foto: Rufino Uribe (cc) Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

For review in english, scroll down

I Sucre d'Ebene har Pierre Guillaume verkligen lyckats framhäva just socker. Det är ett lagom sött, inte så raffinerat (i meningen renat) utan ett mörkt socker i oregelbundna bitar som karvats av från en sockerklump. Efter ett tag känns det som om sockret är upphettat och krystalliserat över en créme bruleé, en behaglig dessertkänsla infinner sig. Sockret och bruleén varar sedan tämligen linjärt under hela dagen, det ska finnas trä i basen och det finns säkert där för att väga upp sötman. Spåren av kåda, benzoin, är i så fall tydligare.

Det finns något i Sucre d'Ebene som påminnner om Pradas Candy, troligen är det båda dofternas anknytning till sötsaker. Candy upplever jag som ljusare, pudrigare och lättare medan Sucre d'Ebene är en tätare och mörkare komposition. En annan doft som det finns likheter med är den dammiga pappersnoten i Boucherons Trouble. Sucre d'Ebene är en riktig komfortdoft i kallt och ruggigt väder. Den har god hållbarhet och passar dagtid i de flesta sammanhang. Provet kommer från Fragrance & Art

In Sucre d'Ebene, Pierre Guillaume really managed to highlight the texture of sugar. It is not the refined white sugar but a moderately sweet, dark sugar carved in irregular pieces from a sugar loaf. After a while it feels just as if the sugar is heated up and is crystalized over a creme brulee, a pleasant feeling of a smooth dessert arises. The sugar and brulée lasts then fairly linear throughout the day, with wood  added in the base to offset the sweetness. There is also clear traces of resiny notes as for exemple some powdery benzoin.

There is something in Sucre d'Ebene that's remindes me of Prada Candy, probably that both scents are associated with sweets. I find Candy to be lighter and more powdery , while Sucre d'Ebene is a denser and darker composition. In Sucre d'Ebene, although sweet, I also (oddly) feel traces of the dusty paper note of Trouble Boucheron . Sucre d'Ebene is a real comfort scent in cold and chilly weather. The longevity is good and it is suitable for daytime wear in most contexts. The sample comes from Fragrance & Art

Rating: 4

Notes Socker, benzoin, trä/sugar, benzoin,woody notes

Huitième Art - Manguier Metisse

Bild: Alphonso Mangoes in a box surrounded by straw

Foto: G. Patkar, (cc) Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

Pierre Guilaumes Manguier Metisse är en doft som är totalt dominerad av frukt men ändå inte så typiskt sött kemiskt fruktig som så många fruktiga dofter är. Visst är Manguier Metisse kemisk men jag får ingen "kemikänsla". Mango är inte heller någon särskilt söt frukt utan mer ger ett mer neutralt, lite träigt intryck. I Manguier Metisse finns också en tropisk blommighet och fruktigheten är mörk och dov i tonen. Den not som för mig är dominerande under hela doftens utveckling är något annat, nämligen den plåsterliknande not som finns i Cartiers Panthere Edt och i Musst de Cartier Edt i tidig nittiotals formula. Framförallt ger mig Manguier Metisse ständiga associationer till Panthere och det alltså tack vare plåsternoten, texturen och det blommiga inslaget. Andra dofter med likheter är Montales Mango Manga och även Missonis mörkt fruktiga Missoni har en del gemensamt.

Precis som övriga dofter i Huitième Art linjen är Manguier Metisse en lättburen och vilsam doft, användbar i många sammanhang dagtid. Hållbarheten är ganska bra, projektionen relativt nära och till främst för bäraren själv.

Manguier Metisse by Pierre Guilaume is a fragrance that is totally dominated by fruit. But it is not the typical artificial, sweet fruity thing as so many contemporary fruity scents are. Obviously Manguier Metisse contains chemical ingredients but it doesn't convey a "chemical sense". Mango is also not a particularly sweet fruit, but rather provides a more neutral, slight woody impression. Manguier Metisse is also highlight a tropical floralness and the fruity notes are heavy and overripe. But the note that is most dominant  to me throughout the development is something else. Strangely I smell the patch-like note found in Cartier Panthere EDT and Musst de Cartier EDT in their early nineties formulas. Thanks to this note and the texture of the floral elements above all Manguier Metisse gives me associations with Panthere. Other fragrances thats comes to my mind  are Montale Mango Manga and even the dark fruity Missoni by Missoni.

Like the other fragrances in the Huitième Art line is Manguier Metisse is easy to wear and is somehow restful when I wear it. It is useful in many contexts for daytime wearing. Longevity is pretty good, and the projection relatively close to the wearer.

Rating: 3

Noter: Frukt, mango, frangipani, socker, the/ fruit, mango, frangipani, sugar, the

Huitième Art - Ciel d'Airain

Photo: Parfumista (c)

For an english version, scroll down.

Pierre Guillaumes  Ciel d'Airain är en förbryllande doft. Den inleds av noter som för tankarna till asfalt och varma däck, likt klassiska Bulgari Black. I mellanregistret inträder något som jag uppfattar som en kall och krutig lädernot. Krutigheten finns mer uttalad i Lorenzo Villoresis Teint de Neige. Ciel d'Airain tonar sedan ned i något kallt fruktigt, som ändå inte är sött. Det kalla och fruktiga fortsätter ned i basen där det bottnar i en lätt ambrerande not som får Ciel d'Arian att räcka långt in på kvällen.

Ciel d'Arian är precis som de flesta övriga Huitième Art dofterna, en användbar allrounddoft både för både jobb och fritid. Ingen doft som rör upp utan som bara finns där som en trevlig bakgrund. Provet har jag fått från Fragrance & Art

The Pierre Guillaume creation Ciel d'Airain is an intriguing fragrance. It starts with notes that are reminiscent of asphalt and hot tires, like the classic Bulgari Black. In the middlenotes something enters as I perceive as a cold and gunpowdery slight leathery note. The gunpowder is more pronounced in Lorenzo Villoresis Teint de Neige,  in Ciel d'Airain the impression is a paler version. Ciel d'Airain is then fading into a cold un-sweet fruitness. This cold and fruity stage continues down to the base where it anchors in a light ambrering note that makes Ciel d'Arian to last well into the evening.

Ciel d'Arian is, like the rest of the Huitième Art fragrances, a useful all-rounder useful both for both business and casual wear. Not an earthshakening fragrance, it is just there as a nice background. I received the sample  from Fragrance & Art

Rating: 3

Noter: Fruktiga noter, oliv, päronträ, ambra / fruity notes, olive, pear wood, amber

Bulgari – Omnia Coral

Picture: A closeup of a cavernous star coral Montastrea cavernosa

Photo: Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary Staff, Wikimedia commons

Omnia Coral is the latest creation in Alberto Morillas Omnia line for Bulgari. I like and have received compliments for the first spicy-orange Omnia but I have not tested the earlier flankers Omnia Ametysthe, Omnia Crystalline and Omnia Green Jade.

Omnia Coral is a floral-fruity blend with a cold, musky base that almost resembles ice tea. I recognize the basenotes from Omnia and some other Bulgari fragrances. Omnia Coral is more flowery than fruity and the fruity accord is not overly sweet or girlish, the fragrance seems to be a fruity-floral for grown ups. The opening accord is reminiscent of red berries and some fruits. In this stage Omnia Coral reminds me of a tropical version of Burberry Touch. The berry/fruity stage is followed by watery- and tropical flowers distinctly supported by the musk. Something in this stage, probably the hibiscus and the lingering berry notes reminds me of a non-peppery and softer Madness by Chopard.  Omnia Coral is a distinctive fragrance that is obviously present. I perceive Coral as a cold, cooling water hole surrounded by flowers on a tropical island.

Omnia Coral is reminiscent of some contemporary fragrances in the fresh, floral, musky style. It’s a happy scent, perfect for spring and especially in summer as the longevity is excellent. A soothing fragrance suitable for hot summerdays. But wearers beware, Omnia Coral is very potent and has to be applied with caution otherwise it could turn out to be a loud fragrance that wears the wearer rather than the reverse.

Rating: 2+

Notes: Bergamot, goji berries, water lily, hibiscus, pomegranate, musk, cedar

Valentino - Valentina

Bild: Valentina reklambild från Valentino (c)

For an english version, scroll down.

Valentina är skapad för huset Valentino av välkända parfymörerna Alberto Morillas och Oliver Cresp. Den presenteras i en mycket vacker flaska. Själva doften är en typisk ung, modern à la 2011 vit blommig floral över en clean vanilj och träbas med lite skalad ambra.

Valentina inleds med lite dämpat, spritsigt, lätt citrusliknande med inslag av de vita blommorna. De vita blommorna, speciellt apelsinblomman blir sedan tydligare för att sedan mingla ihop och söta till sig med en lätt bärig not. När Valentina nått basen finns där lätt vanilj, ambra och lite trä, en snäll och mjäkig bas, en dussinvara. Valtentina påminner om många dofter i den ordinarie doftbilden lite light Miss Dior Cherie, lite Elie Saab blandad med allmän vanilj doft. I basen finns något som påminner om en skalad och pastellblek version av Diesel Loverdose.

Vad har jag då att säga om Valentina? Tja, smells najs aber überhaupt nicht intressant. Inte för en tant som jag i alla fall, men Valentina är också främst tänkt för en yngre generation damer.

Positivt är att Valentina inte har någon tydlig tvättmedelsnot även om den känns syntetisk och att den trots smultron inte är bärigt sötsliskig som så många dofter riktade till den yngre generationen. Valentina är inte heller, som så många dofter marknadsförda mot den yngre generationen, billigt vulgär och flamsigt fnissig utan den har faktiskt viss klass, är rätt diskret och lite posh.

Valentina is created for the italian fashionhouse Valentino by the famous perfumers Alberto Morillas and Oliver Cresp. It is presented in a beautiful bottle that fits the scent, a typical young, modern à la 2011 stripped down white floral over a clean vanilla and wood base with a little scaled amber.

Valentina begins a little muted, sparkling, slightly citruslike with hints of white flowers. The white flowers, especially orange flower then becomes clearer and then mingle together and sweetens with a light berry note. When Valentina reached the base there is a straight forward vanilla, amber and a hint of wood, a kind and almost meeky base, that could be recognized a variety of contemorary creations. The whole perfume also recalls many scents in the regular scentpicture a bit of a Miss Dior Cherie light, some Elie Saab mixed with a general vanilla scent. The base is somewhat reminiscent of a scaled and pastel pale version of Diesel Loverdose.

What do I have to say about Valentina? Well, smells nice aber nicht überhaupt interesting. Not for an old lady like me anyway, Valentina is primarily intended for a younger generation.

The good news is that Valentina, even if it smells smooth synthetic, has no obvious clean detergentnote. The wild strawberry note is not sharp sugary, as in the case of many fragrances targeted to the younger generation. Valentina is not, as so many fragrances marketed towards the young ones, cheap, vulgar and giggly, it actually has some class, it's quite subtle and a bit posh.

Rating: 3

Notes: Bergamot, truffle, orangeblossom, jasmine, tuberose, strawberry, cedarwood, amber, vanilla

Thanks to Escentual for the sample of Valentina