Considerations when it comes to perfumerating

Photo: Parfumista (c)

When I rate parfumes I use the scale 1-5 where 5 is the best and 1 is the lowest rating. The ratingscale are fintuned with a "+" when a fragrances has qualities that somehow exceeds the chosen rating but don't  reaches all the way up to the next grade. I have observed that the number of 4 and 5 rated fragrances in my reviews are disproportionately high compared to the fragrances rated as "good" (ie medium, quite ok, something I would like wear). An explanation to this is that I acquires samples of fragrances that there in advance is a high probability that I will like as I read a lot about them and know my favorite houses/noses/notes. But to perform the grading more accurately in the future, I have to consider what should form the criterias be to deserve a certain rating.

In my perfumerating section I describe as follows:

"When I describe and evaluate a fragrance in a review it is concluded with a weighted rating. The components considered are: Quality of the ingredients, longivity on the skin, balance in the composition, originality of the composition, if there is an interesting development during the day, if the scent is stimulates the imagination , if the fragrance is reasonably priced (compared to what it delivers), if there is a surprise or a disappointment. Overall it provides a subjective assessment based on the experience and knowledge accumulated over several decades being interested in perfume.

5. An exellent fragrance. Something beyond the ordinary, perhaps already a classic or a future classic. Or just a beautiful fragrance that I love....
4. A very good fragrance. Or a fragrance that I like very much or almost love.
3. A good fragrance. Adequate, no reason not to buy a sample or two of it when I like it. Something that I will wear occasionally.
2. Not so good. A fragrance that does not live up to the expectations. A disappointment to me and therefore not worth buying to me.
1. Poor, a fragrance that is underperforming. "

I think all this is still relevant but I think that two factors are increasingly important to me: 1) The fragrance is challenging or otherwise interesting and keeps my interest during it's whole dry down and during a whole day ie the longevity have to be good. Or 2) The fragrance makes me feel comfortable and I'm longing to wear the fragrance. The fragrance supports me in uncomfortable situations and strengthen my self-confidence. A perfume rated 3 doesn't have these qualities to me (to my personal liking) even if smelling good and I probably would wear such a fragrance from time to time. But I could nonetheless recommend the scent to others to try as I have assessed the fragrance as good and to somebody else these two important qualities described maybe will occur.

Ramón Monegal - L'Eau de Rose

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Ramón Monegals rosewater is despite of it's airy, happy, uplifting character, not a traditional dab-on rosewater L'Eau de Rose seems to me as a bright and seemlessy blended Edt composed by high quality roseoils. The scent of the rose is the scent of the rosebuds of the flower, there is no harsh green notes of the steem or leaves crushed in the blend, just the smooth and creemy rosebuds. I image there is rose buds from different colors particulary pink but also yellow, orange and red, all of them in the lighter and brigther tonality of the respective color. Soon the rosiness becomes creamy, it smells almost as the nail cream my mother used when I was a child, and as she rememered from her childhood that her grandmother used. As the delicate blend reaches the basenotes it's grounded with a light touched patchouli that gives the blend a interesting darker dept as a background. There is also musk there but so well intergrated that I don't smell it as a separate, dominate note. In fact, I was surprised when wearing L'Eau de Rose that the, for light and bright rose fragrances, mandatory rose-musk combination is missing.

To me L'Eau de Rose is sort of a delicate, fintuned, summerversion of rose, patchouli combos such as Lady Vengeance by Juliette Has a Gun (review in swedish). Also bright and light pink rose fragrances as Rose Pivoine by Patricia de Nicolï and Bulgari Rose Essentielle comes to my mind even if L'Eau de Rose is less sweet and has it's darker twist compared to the two latter fragrances.

All in all: L'Eau de Rose is a straight forward light rosefragrance, easy and comfortable to wear, suitable both for casual and officewear. The longevity is great, a full day wearing in summer, the sillage is close. The darker patchuli twist makes L'Eau de Rose staying away from the dull and meek light rose fragrance territory. A good alternative when it comes to the light and bright rose fragrance category.

Rating: 4+
Rating: 5 (June 2013)
Update: L'Eau de Rose is unusual to be a pink rose and deserves to climb the last half step to reach the highest rating 5.

Notes:  Tea rose, taif rose, neroli, patchouli, musk

Remembering Mona

I hope that as many of you as possible has noticed the moving newsletter of yesterday from Parfums Mona di Orio. If not I copied it; here it is......And I will pick a rose today to remember Mona, my favoriteparfumer.....

Mona di Orio

Tomorrow the 19th of July is Mona's birthday. I hope she will be extra remembered on this day.

Mona dedicated  a big part of life to the Art of Parfum. She always hoped that people would open up and receive the gift of really using their nose. Become aware of the smells around you. To remind her on this day it would be great to pick up a flower and smell it intensly and think of Mona. Mona you are being missed. X

Ramón Monegal – Entre Naranjos

Picture: Citrus aurantium, (bitter orange "Orange de Seville")

Real Jardín Botánico de Madrid.

Photo: A.Barra (cc), Wikimedia Commons,

some rights reserved

Now it’s time to going on posting my impressions from my journey of discovery of the Ramón Monegal fragrances. Of course I should have introduced the house and the line by now but as my overall impression from what I have sniffed from the house is very positive, I can’t stop myself from testing and forward my impressions of the fragrances. But the hard facts will follow later J.

Entre Naranjos, between the oranges (trees?), is a name that matching this uplifting orange scent perfectly. The formula seems straight forward but for the sake not at all simple as the ingredients seems to be of a good quality and as in the RM fragrances tested so far, also well blended without any rough or sharp edges (except the neutronbomb Dry Wood). Entre Naranjos have similarities with the classic Hermès Eau de Cologne Orange Verte but as EDCOV is more about the orangeflowers EN is almost all about the oranges, the fresh fruits themselves, directly picked from the tree, peeled and eaten in it’s shadow. Despite the initial similarities, the fragrances then take different directions: Where EDCOV:s citrus accented orangeflowers rests on a cool, bright, mossy base, EN:s fruity orange goes darker and more oriental-woody in style, resting on a light peppery (cedar?), woody amber base. The patchouli is very well blended with the other ingredients and it’s not recognizable as a singular note, but it’s adding some chilly eartyness to the blend.  All in all: EN stirkes me as a sort of contemporary interpretaion of the orange-cologne theme of the Hermès classic.

EN to me seems to be a good year around cologne, during the colder season as a vitamin boost and a reminder of the sunny summer. It’s perfect for casual daytimewear and will not offend anybody in the office enviroment. EN is unisex in style even if some passages of it is leaning slight to the masculine side. The sillage is close, the longevity is relativly short, not the 24h + that I have experienced from some other RM fragrances. On the other hand as  EN is leaning towards the cologne style one can’t expect more.

To summon it all up: Entre Naranjos is a versatile, casual, orange-woody fragrance, not groundbreaking but a good choice for a basic contemporary alternative in the citrus section of the fragrance wardrobe.

Rating: 3

Notes: Orange blossom, bitter orange, petit grain, neroli, amber, patchouli

Ramón Monegal - Impossible Iris

Picture: The Impossible Iris personified

H.R.H Crownprincess Victoria of Sweden,

Photo: Mattias Edwall/Royal Court (c) 

The Impossible Iris, a creation of senior parfumer Ramón Monegal for his own house, which also bears his name, is all but impossible. It's a beautiful irisfragrance in which the perfumer manages to curb the sharp, rough, carrot-earthy notes that are present in the topnotes of almost every orris-root dominated perfume as in for example Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist or Heeley Iris de Nuit. The carrot is there but it's soft and rounded, in texture as cashmere. Another fragrance where I have percieved this sensation is in Naiviris the Pierre Guillaumes creation for his Huitième Art line. After a while the iris note in Impossible Iris get an almost buttery (the orris-butter?), but at the same time airy quality. Soon also an unexpected twist for such a pure, elegant creation like this appears: A red berry note, but handled in a way that supports and balances the cold iris, ther is no typical sweet, fruity-floral, vibes at all. The warm and almost powdery note of mimosa is also clearly present to balance out the iris. In this stage there is a powdery-cosmetic feel that is characteristic for elegant iris fragrances but in Impossible Iris it's tuned down and constitute one of all the interesting facets of this fragrance. The whole delicate blend rests on a light woody-cedar base, integrated in a seamless way with the rest of the ingredients.

Impossible Iris is high quality stuff, very versatile, it's the perfect officescent, a sort of first-class Prada Infusion d'Iris Edp replacement. Impossible Iris is also the perfect "lunch at some elegant restaurant fragrance" or something to wear at a day time reception, would be a perfect choise to our Crownprincess Victoria for the official celebrations of her 35th birthday today. If Impossible Iris is to be personified, Victoria is my choice. When wearing Impossible Iris another high quality iris comes to my mind, the XerJoff Irisss (review in swedish). Both these fragrances have the elegant, gently, airy quality but to me the orris root are more present in Impossible Iris whilst Irisss to my nose is more about the iris flower. Of the two IMHO Impossible Iris has more interesting twists whereas Irisss is more of a conventional, classical iris.

Even if Impossible Iris is easy to wear, the developement is interesting during the whole dry down, something that I demand from my favourite fragrances. The longevity is great, + 24 hours in warm, humid summer weather, a feature that is not common when it comes to fragrances with this smooth and gentle character. Often such fragrances falls apart and fade away, but not this incredible,beautiful (Im)possible Iris.

Rating: 5

Notes: Iris, mimose, raspberry, ylang-ylang, jasmine, cedar

Thanks to Ramón Monegal Parfums for getting the opportunity to sample this beauty. The Ramón Monegal Parfums are also avaible at Aus Liebe zum Duft .

Caldey Abbey Perfumes - Island Fern

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

I was so inspired by Pojkfrökens fact-filled travel report (in swedish) from the Island of sacred fragrances Caldey Island so I felt the urge to test the Island Fern also described in the post of Pojkfröken. Last year when I orderd the Caldey Abbeys best fragrance (five stars from Luca Turin and by him appointed as the best lavendel) Caldey Island Lavendel  I also received a bunch of generous samples from the bountiful monks. One of them is Island Fern.

Island Fern is a green in texture, a soapy, herbal, grassy, slight mossy blend, an archetypal fougère. I haven't much to add to Pojkfrökens review, my impressions seems to be similar.Island Ferns structure is straightforward, neither complicated nor "great parfumery" but with good quality of the ingredients and it's an excellent reference fougère. In style it has some similarities with lighter, classical vetivers as for example Guerlains Vetiver but Island Fern is smoother, soapier and gentler in charachter. It reminds me somehow of a retrostyled hotelsoap. Island Fern is the perfect scent to splash on after a sauna and the following refreshing bath in the sea, an easy going scent for casual life in the archipelago. The longevity is medium, better then I expected, the sillage is quite close with some whiffs around the wearer now and then.

Rating: 3

Notes: Fern, moss, grass, herbals, aldehydes (I guess as I have not found a notelist of Island Fern)

Thanks to Caldey Island Abbey for samples to try.

Mona di Orio - Les Nombres d'Or Rose Etoile de Hollande

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Rose Etoile de Hollande is maybe not Monas last creation but as a formula that she has worked on for several years and was finished before her tragical death last December, it's a deserving tribute to a great perfumer. A perfumer that is my most preferred.

- Pink rose with some of the to the rose oils typical rubbernote in the top/early middlenotes, but the rubbernote is gentler than in for example Annick Goutals Rose Absolue a high quality rose soliflore.

-Later on in the developement REdH is like a almost dry not especially sweet gourmand scent. This stage reminds med of Andy Tauers wonderful Une Rose Vermeille (minus the sweet jammy rosiness). In it's texture and the feeling REdH is close to Les Nombres d'Or Musc with some powder (minus the crackling dry gunpowder powderness) from Les Nombres d'Or Ambre. In the base there is darker, spicy, resiny, velvety dry notes. A fine, gentle leather note is also shining through. In the last stages it feels retro in style, with dark and dramatic facets, like a well mannered Rochas Femme. There is also a slight dusty note that reminds me of the "dust on a glowing bulb" note (minus the glowing) in Monas first creation of her own house: Carnation.

- REdH appers to me as softer and gentler then many of the earlier Mona creations. The sillage is close, almost as a skinscent but with occasional wiffs of the beautiful, pink rose on it's deeper and darker background.

- REdH conveys the sensation of soft cashmere and angora to me. It's clearly feminine in style.

- I tested REdH in summer but I also think it will fit very well (if not even better) in the cold season. Tender but in the same time sparkling like a little far away twinkling dimond star a starry winternight. A star like Mona.

- Monas companion, Jeroen Oude Sogetoen, has dedicated the name Rose Etoile de Hollande to Mona. Mona is the Star of Holland, Holland where their perfumehouse is domiciled and also where Mona have her final restingplace.

- To summon it all up: I love this rose, it fullfilled my very high expectations, but as always I could trust Mona handling one of my favouritenotes. REdH is not as dark as I had expected but that is absolutly not a disadvantage. On the contrary, darker roses are often more rough in characher. This one goes from bright to medium on a dark, contrasting background, it's one of those fragrances that demands attention during the whole developement which to me is the essence of a fine perfume.

Rating: 5

Notes: Aldehydes, white peach, bergamot, rose, cloves, geranium, leather, patchouli, cedar, heliotrope, vanilla, benzoin, amber, peru balsam.

Thanks to Parfums Mona di Orio for sending me a sample to test. REdH is avaible at Aus Liebe zum Duft.

Lubin - Idole

Spices in Mapusa Market, Goa, India,

Foto: Judepics, cc (some rights reserved)

Wikimedia commons

Scroll down for an version in english.

Idole är en kryddigt, träig doft enligt uppgift skapad av Olivia Giacobetti 2005 i samband med uppfräschningen och moderniseringen av det gamla klassiska parfymhuset Lubin.

Idole är inspirerad av dofterna i den afrikanska, karibiska och indiska oceaniska övärlden. Jag känner kryddor, mörkt trä, lite tjära och romindränkta tunnor fraktat av ett segelfartyg. Ingredienserna till trots så är ändå Idole en transparent doft, en motsats som gör doften fascinerande. När det gäller kryddigheten så känns den speciella pepprighet som saffran ger, en not som också finns i Montales Amber & Spices och Sisleys Eau de Sisley 3. Den transparenta stilen trots en del kraftfulla ingredienser, delar Idole med Eau de Sisley 3 fast den senare är dominerad av citrus där Idole domineras av trä. Det finns också något i den känsla som Idole framkallar som påminner om Maitre Parfumeur et Gantiers Eau des Iles.

Idole är en mörk kryddoft som med fördel kan bäras även sommartid. Passar dagtid både på jobbet och som casual. Mycket bärbar och en bra basdoft men inte (längre) särskilt originell.

Idole is a spicy, woody fragrance created by Olivia Giacobetti in 2005 in connection with the refresh and modernization of the old classic perfume house Lubin. Idole is inspired by the scents of the islands of the African, Caribbean and Indian oceans. I smell lot of spices, dark wood, a little tar and the rum-soaked barrels transported by a sailing ship. Despite all these potent ingredients, Idole is still a transparent fragrance, a contrast that makes the blend fascinating. In the case with the spiciness, it smells like that special peppery note that saffron gives, a note which is also is present in  Montales Amber & Spices and Sisley Eau de Sisley 3. The transparent style despite some powerful ingredients, is the common denominator for Idole and Eau de Sisley 3, the latter is dominated by citrus where Idole instead is dominated by woody notes. There is also something in the sense that Idole conveys that is reminiscent to Maitre Parfumeur et Gantiers Eau des Iles.

To summon up Idole is a dark spicy-woody fragrance which can be worn advantageously preferable in the summer. Suitable for daytime at work as well as casual. Very versatile and a good basic in a fragrance wardeobe but not (any longer) particularly original.

Rating: 3+

Noter/notes: Bitter apelsin, mörk rom, klöver, saffran, socker, ebenholz, sandelträ, läder /bitter orange, dark rum, clover, soffron, sugar, ebony, sandalwood, leather

Tour de Montale

I'm so tired of all the complaints of the multiple offerings from the house of Montale that has been common the latest years in the perfumebloggosphere. Going from beeing praised when Montale started the oud-trend in the beginning/middle of the 00-decade, suddenly (when other houses followed and started to realease easier, light oud interpretations) the common thoughts went quite the opposite. Montale is for instance accused to have to 1) many, too similar smelling offerings, 2) using a sharp, syntetichal oud and 3) to release too many fragrances per year. My reaction to 1) and 3) is that it is up to the customer to try and decide and as long it's opportunities for sale on the worldmarket it's also reasonable to continue. Regarding 2) my opinion is that most perfumelines uses syntetical oud at most so Montale isn't differently then the others and I also think that they are using real oud to some extent in some of their offerings.As to the sharp oudnote there is used more or less in the Montales I have to confess I really like it. It's a distinct antipode to the other ingredients and lends character an longevity beyond 24h for the blends. I experience this oudnote as somehow cool-earthy-refreshing and I prefer the oud-line in summer even if the ouds also fits well in the colder seasons.

The last week I devoted myself to test some Montales from the oudline foremost to try out if they are so similar as claimed to. My answer is no, the typical Montale base is present in various proportions but as a whole I can smell apparent differences between the four that was tested and I was not bored at all, on the contrary. And when it comes to typical bases, most houses has their own characteristic base and I can't see why it shouldn't Montale do the same. My impression from the tested fragrances is as follows:

Aoud Queen Roses: This one is more about medium red, fresh roses then about oud. The oud is relatively unobtrusive in the background.

Black Oud: The most famous Montale and probably, all ifs and buts weighted, also the best. Dark roses, that together with the patchouli and oud creates an almost creamy leathery effect. This one almost always attracts compliments.

Aoud Leather: Not so heavy on the dark oudnote, here the oud ist the peppery interpretation. Together with a note that reminds me of lime and a light and bright leathernote this of is refreshing a warm summerday.

Aoud Amber: Aoud Amber is perhaps the most "cold season" of the four. To me the oud note is muted in AA, there is more of a sort of skanky, oriental-chypre charachter with resiny notes combined with notes which are mossy in charachter. This is a strange but enjoyable blend.

To summon up: I percived enough variation in the oud-theme to enjoy may four days of tour de Montale.

Parfumerie Générale - Cologne Grand Siècle

Photo: André Karwath, CC - some rights reserved,

Wikipedia commons

For an english version, scroll down
Parfumerie Générales (PG:s) citruscologne Cologne Grand Siècle är gjord av en hög andel naturliga råvaror. Pierre Guilleme, husets grundare och näsa, säger sig vara inspirerad av solkungens hov (Ludvig XIV) på 1600-talet och de få och rena råvaror som då stod till parfymörernas förfogande.

CGS är en fin, om jag ska tänka mig en färg, djupgul, citrus. Den är lite söt, påminner om smaken av en hård citruspastill. Det påminner i stilen om kultklassikern Eau de Rochas men den senare är mer tvålig, har en mossig bas och är stramare i stilen. CGS är med sin trä och vetiverbas mer publiktillvänd och lättsam. En fin sommardoft som tyvärr har en stor nackdel: Den försvinner på en halvtimme, visserligen testad under tuffa soliga sommarförhållanden. CGS är något mer maskulin än feminin, även om man tycks framhäva doften något olika: På herr Parfumista framhävs de träiga noterna mer den korta stund det varar, på mig citrusnoterna.

Parfumerie Générale (PG) citrusy cologne Cologne Grand Siecle is made of a high proportion of natural ingredients. Pierre Guilleme, the house's founder and nose, says he is inspired by the court of the Sun King Louis XIV in the  seventeenth century and the few and pure ingredients which then was avaible to the  parfumer.

CGS is a nice, if I have to think of a color, deep yellow, citrus. It's a little sweet, reminiscent of the taste of a hard citruspastille. It's reminiscent of the style of the cult classic Eau de Rochas, but the latter is soapy, has a mossy base and is stricter in style. CGS, with its base of wood and vetiver is more oriented  towards the general public and more easygoing. A nice summer fragrance which unfortunately has a major drawback: It disappears in half an hour, although tested under harsh sunny conditions. CGS is a bit more masculine than feminine, even if it seems to enhance the smell somewhat different: Mr Parfumista highlights the woody notes the short time it lasts,  and for me, the citrus notes dominates.

Rating: 3

Noters Tangerine, bitter orange, cardamom, vetiver

Montale - Crystal Flowers

Bild: Bouquet de roses, Rosa sp. horticoles, marché aux fleurs, Place Monge, Paris

Foto: Jebulon, Wikipedia, (CC, some rights reserved)

Scroll down for an english version
Solsken, en lätt sommarbris och ljust rosa rosor i solskenet. Det är mitt sammanfattande intryck av Crystal Flowers en doft från Montales icke-oud linje (Edp-linjen).

• En öppning och toppnoter som påminner mycket om fina Un Amour de Patou.
• Sedan följer en linjär rosa rosenbukett på myskig bas.
• Jag känner inga gröna blad som man så ofta gör i ljusa rosendofter, det här handlar bara om själva rosen, blomman.
• Elegant och klassisk doft som gjord för sommaren.
• Känns inte särskilt unik då Crystal Flowers påminner om många andra högkvalitativa dofter i den ljusa rosengenren.

En mycket användbar sommardoft.

Sunshine, a light summer breeze and light pinkcoloured roses in the bright sunshine. That's my general impression of Montales Crystal Flowers a fragrance from the non-oud line (Edp-line).

*An opening and top notes, very similar to the fine pink-rosy Un Amour de Patou.
*Then follows a linear pink bouquet of roses on musk base.
*I do not recognize any green leaves, as so often is present in light rose scents, this is all about the rose flower.
*Elegant and classic scent perfect for summer.
*Does not feel particularly unique as Crystal Flowers is reminiscent of some other high-quality scents into the bright pink rose-genre.

A very versatile summer scent.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Rose, mandarine, lily of the valley, amber, musk

XerJoff - Oud Stars Al-Khatt

Picture: Raoucha

Artist: Nasreddine Dinet, 1901, Wikimedia Commons

Al-Khatt, from the oud line of the mega luxary house XerJoff, starts with a pleasant barnyard oud followed by a refreshing, high quality, slight creamy boquet of flowers. Unfortunately the animlic oud disapperas soon and the beautiful flowery blends remains and develops as Al-Katt is drying down. Or maybe the oudnote doesn't disappears, the laotian oud is known to be gentle and flowery in it's character, an excelllent example is Mona di Orio Oud, maybe the out in Al-Khatt just going through it's normal evulation. Beside the disappering animalic oud note there is also another annoying thing with Al-Khatt: The beautiful, bergamot-jasmine dominated flowery blend is very similar to Amouages Ubar, but Al-Khatt has a cashmeran, smoot, creamy texture. As Ubar is one of my favourite Amouages this mimicry irritates me but apart from that the perfumers Sergio Momo, Sonia Espelta and Laura Santander did a good job. Al-Khatt, just as Ubar, conveys the feeling of a sunny and pleasantly warm summerday. As a XerJoff, Al-Khatt is a high quality fragrance where the best ingredients are used. The elegant flowery blend is seemless with an excellent longevity and moderate projektion, can't disturb anybody if not overapplied. The blend is concentrated and a little goes for a whole day. My 1 ml sample will thankfully last for long.

To summon up: Al-Khatt is not as oriental in style as one can expect from an oud perfume. But on the other hand, Al-Khatt as it's older sister Ubar is a pleasure to wear, it's the sort of high quality flowery fragance that makes the wearer unwilling to wear even a decent mainstream fragrance again. I'm in love!

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, jasmine sambac, cashmeran, vanilla, oakmoss, benzoin, oud from Laos

SOTD Midsummer Eve is....

Mona di Orios gentle orange-bread-with myrrh Jabu. Not a perfume associated with the brightest and lightest day of the year, for a day like this a lighter and more sparkling orangeblossom perfume is more appropriate but today I felt I needed something interesting and artful like a Mona creation. I'm so looking forward to her postum rose the Les Nombres d'Or Rose Etoile d’Hollande, Mona and rose - the Queen of Perfumery and the Queen of flowers - I know that the outcome will be majestic.

The Midsummer Fragrance

Picture: Midsummer Dance (Midsommardans).

Oil on canvas by Anders Zorn, 1897, Wikimedia Commons

Tomorrow it's midsummer eve and today it's the lightest day of the year, tomorow it turns to be darker. Every year I write an entry about proper (or maybe improper) midsummer fragrances. Last year was midsummer in Chanel Cristalle Edt as I was in a Chanel mood. This year I'm in no particular mood (except maybe Annick Goutal as I'm so appreciate Nuit Etoileé and also La Violette) so I havn't got the slightest idea of what to wear.

Today I'm wearing Etat Libre d'Orange Tom of Finland and it's leathery, coconutty smell is not especially midsummerlike. The only association to midsummer I get from ToF is Finland as Finland is our neighbour country and also celebrates the midsummer eve. I received the Tom of Finland sample from my friend Fragrantfanatic yesterday during our pleasant, monthly perfumelunch. FF then told about a perfume that has supported her in the grief of her grandfather, see her touching entry here . FF also let me test from her sample of the new, not yet released, Mito from Vero Kern. Pure, sparkling, wonderful greenness, a must have. Can't place the fragrance already, but it reminds me of some other green beauty.

I wish you a merry Midsummer weekend!

Lalique - Eau de Lalique

Picture: Anethum graveolens,

Prof. Dr. Otto Wilhelm Thomé Flora von Deutschland, Österreich und der Schweiz 1885, Gera, Germany, Wikimedia Commons (GFDL by Kurt Stueber)

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Den anrika franska glasdesignerfirman Lalique har som många känner till även en parfymlinje. Detta är helt logiskt då Lalique skapat vackra parfymfalkonger sedan det tidiga nittonhundratalet. Eau de Lalique är en skapelse av Jean-Claude Ellena, strax innan han blev husnäsa hos Hermès, och Emelie Coppermann.

Eau de Lalique är en i mitt tycke typisk transparant men ändå inte flyktig Ellena-komposition. Jag känner igen drag från hans klassiska och banbrytande gröna the-komposition för Bulgari, Eau Parfumee au the vert men Eau de Lalique har en lite annan inriktning, den är en mer lätt men kallt kryddig cologne. Eau de Lalique inleds med noter av bland annat dill. Dillnoten känns tydligt en mycket kort stund i inledningen men sedan blandar den upp sig med bland annat citrusfrukter, kardemumma, lätta blomnoter, kådor och trä. Eau de Lalique är en slags orientalisk cologne och mig ger den ungefär samma känsla som Diors av Indien inspirerade Escale à Pondichery, även om den senare domineras av jasmin och svarta thenoter. På mig framträder framförallt Eau de Laliques kardemumma under hela doftens nedtorkning men trä, blomma  och citrusfrukter tonar ned kardemumman till en lagom nivå. Framåt kvällen återstår en träigt, kallt kryddig, vit myskig bas med en klar orientalisk touch, hela doften känns i det avslutande skedet mycket mörkare, som om det inte varit en lättare doft under dagen. Eau de Lalique är lite av en kameleont.

Eau de Lalique är i mitt tycke en fräsch doft utan att vara aqua-kemisk i stilen. Den är perfekt sommartid och håller väldigt bra om man inte under-applicerar. Men det är också en doft som passar bra om man vill ha något fräscht för att bryta av från de tyngre dofter som jag ofta använder under höst/vinter, och fast jag inte "borde", under stor del av våren. Doften är klassad som unisex vilket jag håller med om även om den har en liten dragning åt det feminina hållet om man ska vara stockkonservativ i sin bedömning.

Sammanfattningsvis är Eau de Lalique en mycket användbar doft av bra kvalitet som är enkel och avslappnande att bära. Ingen direkt intellektuell utmaning med konstigheter eller krusiduller något som kan vara väldigt befriande ibland.

Summary: Eau de Lalique is a versatile scent, easy and relaxing to wear. An unusual opening accompanied with a dillnote, followed by a wellbalanced thenote combined with some citrus, light flowers and a cardamonnote over a wood-musky base. Unisex, leaning slightly to the feminine side. Perfect for summer with it's good longevity even when hot or humid weatherconditions. With Ellena as co-perfumer it's not surprising that Eau de Lalique has some similarities with Eau Parfumee au the vert. The flowery notes blended with cardamon also gives me associations to Dior Escale à Pondichery  I precieve the same feeling. Eau de Lalique is not directly an intellectual challenge with oddities or frills but that's is very relieving at times.

Rating: 4

Notes: Mandarine, bergamot, pimento, citron, dill, cardamom, cinnamon, hibiscus, freesia, gaiac- and sandalwood, benzoin, musk.

Parfums de Nicolaï - Cologne Friction

Photo: Parfumista (c)

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Patrica de Nicolaïs Cologne Friction är en av husets fina cologner. Friction är mjukt gräsigt grön, krispigt bladdigt grön, den ligger någonstans mellan Sisleys riktigt gräsiga och tomatbladsliknande Eau de Campagne och Thierry Muglers gröna, solcremeslikande mysk Mugler Cologne. Cologne Friction är inte lika intensivt gräsig som Campagne och är inte fuktigt, myskig som Mugler Cologne utan som sagt ett välmodererat mellanting. Den är liksom torrt grön, utan att bli hö-ig, med en aningen av en lätt osöt tvålighet. Liksom de båda andra gröningerna är Cologne Friction unisex och till och med kinkiga herr Parfumista som aldrig skulle sätta på sig Mugler Cologne kan använda Friction i casualsammanhang någon gång då och då. För Cologne Friction är genuint casual, som gjord för en tur i skogen eller på sjön. Men den fungerar förstås också en dag när man vill ha något lätt och friskt på jobbet, exempelvis om man av en eller annan anledning känner sig ur form. Eftersom Cologne Friction är just en Cologne så är hållbarheten inte så bra men applicerar man en hyfsad dos finns ändå fragment kvar till kvällen.

Sammanfattningsvis en välgjord, balanserad och prisvärd cologne. Att rekommendera för den som inte är nöjd med reformuleringen av Eau de Campagne.

Patricia de Nicolai Cologne Friction is one of the fine wellcrafetd colognes of the house Parfums de Nicolaï. Friction is soft grassy green and crisp green leafy at the same time, it lies somewhere between Sisleys bold grassy and tomato leaf-like Eau de Campagne and Thierry Muglers green, suntan-like musk Mugler Cologne. Cologne Friction is not as intense as grassy Campagne and is not moist and musky as Mugler Cologne, instead it's a well modualted in between. It is dry and green, without being hay-like, with a light  slightly unsweet soapiness. Like the other two are greeniess, Cologne Friction unisex and even the fussy Mr. Parfumista who would never put on Mugler Cologne use Friction for casual once in a while. Beacause Cologne Friction is truly casual, perfect for a ride in the forest or a day at the sea. But of course it also works for the occasions when you want something light and fresh at work, for example, if for one reason or another, feeling out of shape. Of being a cologne the durability is quite good if applying a decent dose there is still clear, green, musky fragments left on skin in the evening.

In summary, Cologne Friction, as usually with the Nicolaï frags, is a well-made, balanced and affordable cologne. To recommend for those who are not satisfied with reformulation of Eau de Campagne.

Rating: 4

Noter: Gräs och annat grönt/ Grass and other greenery

Parfums de Nicolaï - L'Eau Chic

Picture: Pelargonium graveolens (Rose Geranium)

Photo: Laitche (cc), Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

Patricia de Nicolaïs L'Eau Chic starts with a brisk, green blast of geranium. The fragance is fresh but not in the characteristic contemporary laudery or detergent way. This is natural, green, sharp freshness with some minty notes followed by herbal and light spicy notes with a light woody background, blond wood as birch, aspen and linden. Even if Patricia de Nicolaï was inspiered by the scent of her parents geraniumsoaps I don't get a particulary soapy feeling of L'Eau Chic, there just some soapiness in the basenotes that somehow feels a little dry. 

To my nose L'Eau Chic is a woody take on one of my favorite Nicolaïs Week End 

à Deauville 2011. As an owner of that Week-End I'm not convinced that I need even a small bottle of L'Eau Chic as especially in the middlenotes, I feel many similarities between the two fragrances, Week End beeing a bit more flowery-green and with a mossy feeling, where L'Eau Chic is more woody-herbal-green.

Even if categorized as an Eau L'Eau Chic is sharp, distinct and longlasting, it lasts during a whole day. It's the perfect, chic, casual daytime perfume (especielly for spring and summer) that is very pleasent to wear and it feels very refreshing almost germicidal. Just as Week End à Deauville this is a fragrance that is very special and stands out from the crowd.

Rating: 4

Notes: Geranium, lavendel, mint, chamomille, clove, spice, sandalwood, musk