Vero Profumo - Rozy EDP

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

The rose variations Rozy  from Vero Profumo are said to be inspired from the intensive (to say the least) italian actress Anna Magnani and espceially the movie The Rose Tatoo. As usual the fragrances from Vero Profumo is created by the founder of the house, Vero Kern. Today my impression of Rozy EDP and in the next entry, Rozy Voile d'Extrait.

Rozy EDP starts with an accord that reminds me of the honeyed flowery/rosy a bit lipsticky in texture start of the clasic  Shocking by Elsa Schiaparelli. But after a while Rozy EDP takes its own track, a delicious, fruity, golden nectar, honey and rose. The passionfruit, characteristic for the EDP:s of Vero Kern is deeper, denser and more gentle than in for example Rubj EDP or Kiki EDP. Something original with Rozy EDP is the mix peach, rose, honey and lilacflowers which gives the fragrance its own, original characteristic, its texture is almost inky and the smell has also some similarities (cold, wet metallic) with fluid ink. As a contrast, a soft, smoothing sandalwood is interacting. In the basenotes there is an animalic, dirty quality, powdery almost like putty in texture, a combination that I like very much, present also, but much more powdery, in fragrances as Etat Libre d'Orange Putain de Palaces and Huitéme Art Poudre du Riz. Overall, the resemblance with something that could be a contemporary and more sofisticated (at least compared with current EDT, haven't tried the vintage perfume) Shocking by Schiaparelli lingers during the whole drydown. In the basenotes something that  vaughely reminds me of a flowery version of Amouage Gold Extrait in the older formula is also present as also a resemblence with Antonio Visconti Rose Savuage.

Picture: Rozy EDP
Photo. PR Vero Profump (c)

Rozy EDP is a beautiful, retrostyled rose that distinguishes itself among other dark, dramatic roses. Longevity is very good, traces are left unfragemented almost 24h later. The sillage starts big but lingers to close and in the end to a skinscent. Rozy EDP could be worn year around even if I think it would be great for the colder season or for chilly summerevenings.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, peach, passionfruit, honey, lilac, hyacinth, tarragon, sandalwood, powdery notes

Rania J - Rose Ishtar

Picture: Queen Elizabeth I of England in her coronation robes,
patterned with Tudor roses and trimmed with ermine.
She wears her hair loose, as traditional for the coronation of a queen,
 perhaps also as a symbol of virginity. The painting, by an unknown artist,
dates to the first decade of the seventeenth century (c.1600)
 and is based on a lost original also by an unknown artist.
Wikimpedia Commons

Beware Rose Ishtar from Rania J is nothing of the usual roseinterpretation, either the modern or the classic take. Rose Ishtar is a special and intriguing rose. It's really a rose of its own.

Rose Ishtar starts with a blast of harsh almost sour notes. There is a herbal wibe, dry, dark, tick and dense, sharp without any rounding sweet, fruity notes. There is also something soft spicy about Rose Ishtar. As longer Rose Ishtar dries down, the more of the rose is apparent. The rose is unsweet, tangy but in the same time dry and it's a natural smelling rose with no artificial/cosmetic notes at all. This is the most unsweet rose I have tried. When I image Rose Ishtar in this stage I think of it as a powdery mauve taupe rose if there are roses in this color.When reaching the basenotes, soft patchouli combined with a well balanced sandalwood is deepening and darkening the scent further. Here there are strings of purple in the mauve. Some discrete sweet powdery notes of vanilla and heliotrophine appears and balances the edgy aspects in a pleasant way.

Rose Ishtar is a concentrated fragrance, one has to be careful when applying, it could easily be overpowering. If properly applied, Rose Ishtar has a medium sillage and longevity for more than a day. I think Rose Ishtar is a perfect fragrance for autumn, the imagened color range, texture and tonality of the fragrance is that of the autumn. There is also something eternal over this somehow insidious powerful perfume, I can imagine the glorious Queen Elisabeth I of England, a Tudor rose, wearing a fragrance smelling like Rose Ishtar.

Rose Ishtar is a unisexfragrance but to me it's a manly rose, at least in the top and middlenotes, with its powerful, harsh edges, in the base it's more feminine. Nevertheless I like to wear it but have to be in mood for a demanding perfume that day. Because Rose Ishtar is truly demanding, special and intriguing, a rose of its own

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, cassis, rose damascena, sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, heliotrophine, musk

A reminder about Mohur....

Photo; Mr Parfumista (c)

It seems as when I reviewed the beautiful Mohur Extrait from Neela Vermiere in september last year, it was not yet widely released. The broader launch was some weeks ago at Esxence 2014, information from Lucas on Chemist in a Bottle, read his very well written report from the event here.

Mohur Extrait is my favorite from Neela and I was reminded of its dark, rosy, velvet, golden, purple revelation when trying the airy, silk, silver, purple rose from Parfumerie Générale, Isparta 26 lately. Mohur Extrait could be a perfect companion in the coming Easter, especially on the serene and sad Good Friday as the fragrance is a calming and perfect for the contemplative mood. Here is the link to the full review of  Mohur Extrait.

Parfumerie Générale - Isparta 26

Picture: Pierre Guillaume
Photo: PR Parfumerie Générale (c)

As almost always when reviewing something from Parfumerie Générale it's hard to resist publish a picture of the perfumer Pierre Guillaume himself :-)

But now over to todays subject, Pierres latest release, a beautiful dark rose named Isparta 26. Isparta is named after the turkish province which roses produces superior roseoils, featured in this fragrance and 26 as PG:s numbered collection now has reached that number of fragrances.

Just reading about the ingredients of Isparta makes me excited. I have to admit that I'm very fond of the rose-patchouli-ambroxan combination in fragrances such as Juliette Has a Gun Lady Vengeance and Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady, and this accord, in Isparta combined with balsamic and animalic accords, makes me drool.

Isparta starts heavy but in the same time transparent and light, the rose is really purple, and the rosy smell is a bit tart and as a contrast it's surrounded by a not too sweet, jammy note. A clean, cold patchouli is also contrasting with a high and clear darkness, just as the night sky a starry night. As Isparta dries down it becomes a bit warmer, even if it remains in the cold spectrum, with balsamic and woody notes, among them a well balanced oud. The clean amber, the ambroxan is not as evident as in Portrait of a Lady, in Isparta it is handled with a lighter hand. In the basenote there is also a moisty, mossy note thar togeter with the tart, purple rose are contrasting the ambrox-oud combo. The mossy note together with the rose is what is left after 24h. The moss in this stage reminds me of the refreshing and uplifting mossy note of Parfumerie Générale Papyrus de Ciane.

Picture: Isparta, a dramatic, dark, purple rose
Photo: PR Parfumerie Générale (c)
  

I have read some comment that Isparta doesn't add anything new to the rosegenre. I have to strongly disagree as IMHO this is an unusual combination of the strong and intense but in the same time airy and light. In texture Isparta is just as an exquisite, purple silk veil with silverstitches and embroderies. That image makes me think of another beautiful purple rose, Neela Vermeire Creations Mohur Extrait, which seems to be Ispartas antithesis in the purple, rosy spectrum. Mohur is like a dense, smooth, purple silk velvet with golden stiches and embroderies as opposed to the light, transparent, sliver silk veil of Isparta. Even if these purples of course are not smelling the same, Mohur Extrait (which is more spicy and flowery than Isparta) somehow reminds me much more of Isparta than the more obvious (when reading about its notes) ambrox-rose-patchouli Portrait of a Lady. Just as Mohur, Isparta gives me images of a relaxed, life i luxury, somewhere in the East, during the time of Thousand and one nights.

Despite its light texture, Isparta 26  is strong in its concentration and one have to be careful when applying, too much and Isparta transforms to a sillagemonster. About four spritses is enough of Isparta to keep it within the limit of officetolerable. Sillage is great and longevity for days if more than the four spritses is applied :-)

Rating: 5

Notes: Red berries, rose, peru balsam, calamus, patchouli, olibanum, benzoin, oud, ambroxan, moss

Téo Cabanel - Oha

Picture: December roses
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Oha from the venerable house of Téo Cabanel is an old school styled chypre. Oha is created by the house nose or Téo Cabanel, Jean-Francois Latty, a skilful perfumer when it comes to fragrances in the the high quality classic style of Téo Cabanel. I have tested a recent sample and an older one with juice from a bottle of the old design.

Oha starts grandly with a slight powdry and bitter bergamot with contrasting accords of different roses, I can image both pink and red roses. When Oha reaches its middlenotes the roses is still dominating but has deepened and has become darker and tarter. Jasmine and iris is supporting in a robust classic flowery accord with some cool spicyness from the cardamom. There is very little sweetness, if none in Oha, even the musky base is woody and dry powdery, the vanilla and tonka are barely detectable but I suspect these notes prevent Oha from being too austere. Even if lacking oakmoss which seems to have be replaced with musk and woods, Oha is old school chypre-ish in style, something that fails most modern fragrances in this genre.  Ohas lack of sweetness and robust chypre character makes it to an unusual fragrance.

Picture: Oha (in the current bottle)
Photo: Téo Cabanel (c)

Comparing the two samples of Oha, despite just  the older one is more classic, deeper, boozier and less musky powdery with slightly better longevity. The current sample is more musky powdery, a bit sweeter in the roses and reminds me especially in the opening of Narcisco Rodriguez for Her Edt. Oha is said to be an evening scent but I think it's also appropriate for formal daytime wear as it is close to skin. Longevity is good, ca 12h.

Those who like fragrances in the style of Sisley Soir de Lune, Estee Lauder Knowing, the original Agent Provocateur, Niki de Saint Phalle, but also a bit more spicy blends as Chanel Coco, will probably also appreciate Oha.

Rating: 3 +

Notes: Bergamot. tea, rose, jasmine, cardamon, iris, vanilla, tonka been, woods, musk

Historiae - Mystic Oud

Picture: The awesome bottle of Mystic Oud
Photo: PR Historiae (c)

Mystic Oud is a contrasting fragrance in the up today classical "garden perfume" inspired line of the french niche house Historiae. Orangerie du Roy, Bouquet de Trianon, Hameau de la Reine, Rose de France and Violette Imperiale. As most of the Historiaes Mystic Oud is created by no other than the famous Bertrand Duchaufour.

Mystic Oud starts intriguing with a fruity, boozy note, probably the davana, soon followed by a pink, creamy rose which smells almost like a luxurary face creme. After a while red roses, without the creamy feel, fizzy and a bit tart the same impression as in Annick Goutal Rose Splendide (swe) but not as prounounced, joins the blend and contrasts the comfortable creamy impression. Further on the oud appears but not as the demanding note as in so many oud fragrances. In Mystic Oud it acts more as a dark, woody, contrasting note to the roses and the oud is acting balanced  together with the others in the accord. The boozy note returns darkens and intensifies in the basenotes together with a note of natural honey which lend a slight animalic character to Mystic Oud. The rosy mix is still present in the base, both the creamy pink ones and the tart red ones.

In an early stage of the developement of Mystic Oud I got strong associations to a favorite pink rose of mine, Burberry Body Edp  (swe) but overall Mystic Oud gives a rosier, cleaner and more minimalistic impression compared to Burberry Body which is more of a mixed bouquet but dominated by roses to me.  I think Mystic Oud is a proper name for this rose dominated blend as the oud is (as mentioned above) sort of hidden among the other deeper notes of the fragrance.

A welldone, and even if not the most innovative fragrance ( I find Burberry Body more innovative, maybe because it is IMHO the prototype in this contemporary rosy genre), an intriguing and in the same time comforting  rosefragrance to wear. Sillage is medium and longevity 12h +. The best of all: Mystic Oud is reasonably priced compared to most niche ouds (SEK 830, EUR 93 and USD 124) in Fragrance & Art  webshop. Mystic Oud is quity priceworthy when it comes to quality, there are far more expensive fragrances of lesser or same quality out there.

Those who like rose perfumes and ouds in the style of Ramon Monegal L'Eau de Rose, Robert Piguet Rose Perfection and  Montale Aoud Damascus (swe), I think also  will appreciate Mystic Oud.

Rating: 4

Notes: Aldehydes, bergamot, orange, rose, davana, saffron, rose, peony, geranium, clove, oud, vanilla, benzoin, vetiver, castoreum, amber, patchouli, sandalwood, oak moss

Neela Vermeire Creations - Mohur Extrait

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Mohur Extrait (or Espirit de Parfum) is the perfumeversion of Mohur in Edp which was one of the first three Neela Vermeire Creations in early 2012. The Extrait will, just as Ashoka, be launched soon.

I find the Mohur Extrait deeper and darker than the Mohur Edp. Mohur Edp is a bright medium pink rose to me, smooth, almost creamy, spicy and with some fizzy green notes. There is also a leathernote that reminds me slightly of tobbacco. The Extrait gives me the image of heavy silkvelvet in the color of dark purple with golden stiches and loads of roses in the same color, all surrounded by a smooth almost creamy saffron and other delicate spiced stored in smooth leather pouches. The leathernote in Extrait is darker and deeper than in the Edp.The woody notes of oud and sandalwood is gentle and not at all overpowering.  I can also smell a note or part of an accord that reminds me of Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille (swe). Probably this is an effect of iris and violet interacting, underscored by dark deep notes, in Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille. patchouli and in Mohur Extrait oud. The Extrait has a retro vibe even if not as evident as in Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille. 

Picture: The matching bottle to the Mohur Extrait
Photo: PR Neela Vermeire Creations (c)

The Extrait, as the perfumestrength in general, is close to the skin wheras the Edp has more radiance. Longevity is good  about 12h in warm weather and as also the Edp, Mohur really blooms when the skin gets warmed. I think both are as good, they complement each other, one for the day and on for the night.  the Extrait is a perfect calming fragrance to sleep in, as it is also for festive evening occasions.  Mohur Extrait just as Mohur Edp is a must try for lovers of intricate oriental rosefragrances such as Guerlain Rose Nacree du Desert d'Orient.

Rating: 5 

Notes: Cardamom, coriander, ambrette, carrot seeds, pepper, elemi, iris, jasmine, rose, violet, almond, leather;sandalwood, amber, woody notes, patchouli, oud, benzoin, vanilla, tonka bean

The Neela Vermeire Creations are avaible here

Robert Piguet - Rose Perfection

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Rose Perfection is another new creation by Aurelien Guichard the housenose of the venerable perfumehouse Robert Piguet. Before creating a bunch of new fragrances the latest years, Guichard also has re-interpreted most of the Robert Piguet classics. Rose Perfection was launched as an Harvey Nichols exclusive.

Rose Perfection starts with a quick whiff of the typical green rubberlike not which is typical for natural roseoils. Soon the fragrance transforms in a fizzy very pink velvet rose. It has a natural sweetness and the scent of the pink petals are dominating even if slight offset by just a gentle dose of the green tart smell from the stem, leaves and thorns. In other bright rosefragrances where the tart note is more distinct, the impression of the rose is more of rosewater from a wild rosebush  as for example Annick Goutal Rose Splendide and Lostmarc'h Iroaz. Rose Perfection is far away from this wild roses, Rose Perfection is a highly cultivated rose with an impressing pedigree growing in the symmetrically designed garden of a french renaissance castle. In style and apperance Rose Perfection reminds me of Serge Lutens Sa Majesté la Rose another elegant pink rose primarily focusing on the delicate rosepetals instead of the rose as a whole. The beautiful, perfect, almost airy clean rose of  Rose Perfection is said to be a blend of different matching notes from destilations of different types of roses. A slight musky base supports and highlights the rosy perfection.

Rose Perfection is perfect for summer, capable to manage even a warm day as it has a great longevity (24h) and stays lightly on my skin also after the morningshower. The sillage is medium and it blooms beautiful a summerday. I'm also convinced that Rose Perfection will do well  also during the colder month especially as the rose has a soft, almost velvet character and not the lighter texture of rosewater.

To me Rose Perfection is the rose equivalent to Robert Piguets beautiful  interpretation of orangeblossom Blossom and just as the latter, highly addictive. Both fragrances are bright, happy, sparkling and in the same time comfortable, relaxing and real pleasure to wear. Just perfect!

Rating: 5

Notes: Citrus, rose, floral notes, musk

Historiae - Rose de France

Picture: Francis I (1494-1547)
Painting  1530 by Jean Clouet (1475-1540)
Wikimedia Commons

Rose de France is the fourth fragrance created by Bertrand Duchaufour in the Historiae-line.It's said to be inspired of the Francis I era in the beginning of the 16th century

Rose de France starts fruity with almost raspberrylike topnotes  blended with roses. The first impression, put in a plesant way, is the smell of a coughmedicin for chlidren which I've been medicated with as a child.After this bold opening the roses steps forward in a dry, but never overwhelmimg or cloying, potpurri-like accord.
The dry roses smells very authentic but after a while the fragrance gets moistier, sweeter and the roses alive and accompanied with other fresh blooming flowers as the dewy peony. The now fresh, medium purple pink rose  is the protagonist during the rest of the dry down. The musky base with some balsamic and patchouli touches reminds me of the creamy, very pleasant, but artifical smelling white musky base of the Oscar de la Renta Essential Luxuries line.

To me Rose de France is a pleasant rosy fragrance perfect for office- and casualwear for spring and summer. I can't see the connection with the era of Francis I as I image the roses of this century as dangerous, dark, dirty and heavy. Sillage is medium and longevity for more than a day.

Those who like pink musky rosefragrances as for example Bulgari Rose Essentielle and Burberry Body Tender could also appreciate Rose de France.

Rating: 3

Notes: May rose, damascena rose, pear, bergamot, tagetes, rose absolute, magnolia, mock orange, clove, davana, peony, géranium, listea cubeba,  benzoin, vanilla, musc, amber

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Rosenotes in a haste

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Recently I have been hit by a sort of roseobsession and when reviewing Grossmith Saffron Rose I felt the urge to sniff some fragrances in the same category ie orientel styled or inspired roses and also clean rosesoliflores. Here are the impressions from what I smelled from the teststripes:

Rose Absolue (Annick Goutal): The truest and cleanest rose, mixed of rose absolues from six different rosetypes. This is like diving in an ocean of rosepetals, experience all the different facets of the scent of roses:  Fresh, green and steamy,dewy, smooth, spicy and velvety. Natural, elegant and relaxing. The reference rosesoliflore.

Taif Roses (Montale):The house of oriental styled roses is of course Montale.There are countless variations where the rose are more or less prominent compared to the other notes, usually oud. Taif Roses is a rosesoliflore, where the rose is supported with some of the leaves and steams which creates a slight rubbery note and a very light lemony note in the top.

Highness Rose (Montale): Dark, velvety, intense, lush and fresh red roses. This is THE rosesoliflore, grand in its "simple" apperance. A regal perfume.

Roses Musk (Montale): A crispy and peppery red rose blended with musk. Radiant and with a great sillage. This one has to be sparely applied.

Aoud Rose Petals (Montale): Saffron and a bright medium pink rose mixed in a delicious creamy combination refreshed by green cool geranium and anchored in a proper dose of oud and other precious woody notes.

Aoud Queen Roses (Montale): The most "perfumery" like rose fragrance in the group. Here there is a red rose which is darker, smoother and the oud  is more pronounced than in Aoud Rose Petals. A slight leathery note is also appearing, almost integrated with the dark rose.

When sniffing side by side on scentstripes there is very evident  how different the scents really are despite the common denominator the rose, and some cases also the oud. And this seems to be a general observation: Fragrances from the same family that seems to be similar when first smelled, mostly appears to be quite different when investigated more in detail.

Grossmith - Saffron Rose

Picture: Roses in a vase,
 painting by Auguste Renoir

I knew instantly when I splashed on Saffron Rose from the small vial that I would just love this stunning oriental styled rosecomposition. And Saffron Rose are just not about flattering topnotes, it is quality all the way out. Saffron Rose, created by Trevor Nicholl is a part of  the Grossmith Black Label Collection.

Saffron Roses starts with a beautiful, very clean, natural smelling pink, a bit oldfashioned, tearose. It is accuented with smooth, spicy notes of saffron and cinnamon, handled in a manner that creates a smooth, slight creamy impression of soft leather. The creamyness is in the same time dry in its texture and this accord creates a sort of chalky impression. As Saffron Rose progress in its dry down the scent is deepen in a melange of very well balanced darker resin and woody notes such as oud and myrrh. The notes are accompanying and the oud doesn't take over the composition as in most oud-rose fragrances. When Saffron Rose reaches the basenotes an almost animalc quality appears but in a subtle way. During the rest of the dry down Saffron Rose highlights the classical rose which interacting perfectly with the darker, soft spicy and woody-resin notes.

Saffron Rose wears close to the skin, the longevity is about 24h. It's a creation of understaded elegance, not as dominating and rough as many Montale rose-oud creations, Saffron Rose is more finetuned and it is a real pleasure to wear, as also the Montales depending on the mood.

Those who (like me) likes Montale Taif Rose, Highness Rose, Aoud Queen Roses, Aoud Roses Petals, Histoires de Parfum Rosam and Annick Goutal Rose Absolue I suspect also will like Saffron Rose.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, saffron, cinnamon, myrrh, oud, tobacco, wood, labdanum, castoreum, sandalwood, amber, guaiac wood

Thanks to Fragrances & Art for the sample to test.

Kerosene - Whips and Roses

Picture: A frag for Lucrezia?

 Probably a portrait of Lucrezia Borgia,

oil on panel by Barolomeo Veneto

Whips and Roses is created by the Michiganbased selfmade perfumer John Pegg. John is a perfumenerd, like most of us reading posts like this, who has taken the brave step to create frags by himself and it seems like he as made a great sucess as he is very en vogue in Perfumland at the moment. John has worked in the automobile industry and the crafted Kerosene bottles are inspired by this background, they are all hand coated by the perfumer himself.

Pink roses, a tart greenery, a slight leathery note over a musky base, Whips and Roses is a fragrance that conveys creepy, spooky undertones. WaR starts with the tart greenery, as the leaves and steem is blended with the all but fresh floralwater in the vase. After a while the pink roses intensifies but they never becomes dominating. The roses are supported by a slight leathery note, just perceptible to my nose. The top and the middle stages of WaR, where the creepy graveyeard association appears, are the most exciting and imiginative phases of the fragrance. As WaR has dried down to the base the blend is transformed to a comfortable but rather common white musk.

WaR in it's earlier stages reminds me of a damp and sort of chemical Rose Splendide by Annick Goutal (review in swedish), RS conveys the same imagination of leaves and steems blended with the pink rose, but the Goutal fragrance is bright and fresh where the WaR is dark and damp (in a positive way). In the base WaR reminds me of the pink rosy musky base of Bulgari Rose Essentielle Edp but the Bulgari musk seems more delicate to me, the Kerosene is more rough edged.

To sum up: WaR is a starts as an eccentric rose but ends in a more familiar rosy-musk. When writing this I have only tried this and Copper Skies from Kerosene and of the two Copper Skies is definitly my first choice, se review earlier this week.

Rating: 3

Notes: Bergamot, blood orange, rose, jasmine, gardenia, iris, sandalwood, musk, leather

Maria Candida Gentile - Cinabre

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Cinabre is a beautiful, smooth, soapy, spicy rosefragrance, created by Maria Candida Gentile. The rose is preseant from the begnning even if changing it’s performance. Cinabres opening rose is similar to the rosy rose aspects in Annick Goutals Rose Absolue. The typical almost rubbery note that is a sign of natural roseoil is present. But as AG:s RA is all about roses and greenery, the rose in cinabre of course is leaning on cinnabar and other spices. After a while the rose is flowing in an opulent, retro soapiness. From this stage of Cinabre I get the picture of Sophia Loren taking a bath, using a luxary, rosy soap. In this stage the rose has darkened and is probably in the very beginning of decaying. The spicy, soapy, rose is resting on a warm, soft, smooth, almost woody-powdery resiny base. In the middle- and basenotes Cinabre partly reminds me of the beautiful natural perfume Roses des Bois from AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo (La Via del Profumo) another high quality italian perfumehouse.

Cinabre is very feminine in style. It is multifacetted and there is new interesting twists during the whole dry down. It’s an interesting fragrance that involves the wearer. Even if dense and bold and with a good projection the scent doesn’t take over the space. To me Cinabre is officefriendly (but probably not to the average swedish perfumewearer) because to me, wearing parfume, is not just about smelling good. It’s also about to get different impressions and to enjoy art in the everyday, and to me Cinabre is definitly a piece of art.

Rating: 5

Notes: Pepper, ginger, rose, benzoin, opoponax, vanille (and I bet a lot of others)

Neela Vermeire Creations - Mohur

Picture: Begum Nur Jahan (Mehrunissa) 1577-1645

Wikimedia commons

Mohur is the third fragrance that I tried from the Neela Vermeire Creation Discovery set. It's like it's companions created by Betrand Duchaufour in collaboration with the founder of the perfumehouse Neela Vermeire. Mohur will evoke images of the powerful empress Mehrunissa of the Mogul (Begum Nur Jahan)dynasty but also of the later colonial era in India.

Mohur is a beautiful pink, smooth and creamy rose blend with a almond and gentle traces of pepper, cardamom, coriander, other spices and a foamy leathery note. There is also slight woody and green touch in Mohur and in the basenotes I find a gentle proportion of the almost fresh geranium smelling oudnote from the spicy Trayeé. The oud in Mohur never overpowers the rose, they are interacting in the most harmonius way. There is also a warm and smooth sandalwood among the basenotes, I think Mysore as it has no sharp edges as the australian version.

Mohur is no sillagemonster but it stays close to the skin, unfragmented during a whole day. There is a pleasure to inhale this thick blend loaded with fine ingredients during. Even almost twelve hours after application I can smell the beautiful natural smelling roseoil. This is a fragrance for elegant daytime events and it is also appropriate for elegant summerevenings. And of course, also to cheer the wearer up a gloomy winterday. Other rosefragrances that Mohur reminds me of is Aoud Damascus by Montale, even if thar one is a bit more oudy and have a slight metallic vibe. It has also some similarities (the pink, creamy rose) to Burberry Body, but Mohur is a highquality, oriental version of Body.

Mohur is a must try for pink rose lovers!

Rating: 5

Notes: Cradamom, coriander, ambrette, carrot seeds, elemi, pepper, rose, iris, violet, jasmine, almond, leather, amber, sandalwood, oud, woody notes, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, tonka been.