M.Micallef - Art Collection Rouge No 1

Picture: The beautiful Rouge No 1 bottle,
created by Martine Micallef herself.
Photo:PR by Parfums M.Micallef (c)

Rouge No 1 is the first part of the summer 2013 limited edition Collection Rouge from the house of the artful and beautiful bottles and perfume M.Micallef. It's a highend fruity floral, created by the M.Micallef houseperfumer Jean-Claude Astier. The red bottles of the two Rouges are stunning to say the least.

Rouge No 1 starts soft vanillic-fruity with an accord that smells almost as smoothed red berries in creme but this is probably the peach interacting with the other notes in this very pleasant gourmand symphony. There is also a contrasting pleasant note of "dry dust on a lighted bulb" which is present in for example Mona di Orio Carnation and makes the opening quite interesting. Particulary in this stage, Rouge No 1 has similarities with the delicious creamy-berry-fruity Jeunesse from Robert Piguet which is a bit more edgy in style. In the next stage Rouge No 1 becomes more floral as also the wellbalanced white musk in the basenotes which gives a certain contrasting dept in this almost edible, yummy blend. The intresting and well balanced "dustnote"weakens during the dry down but a hint is still there in the base, something that I appreciate of course as I usually like  a"weird" twist in a fragrance.

Rouge No 1 is quite linear and confidently recognizable, with its returning but gradually evolving accords, during the dry down. Despite edible as a pastry, Rouge No 1 is not dense and thick or too sweet and therefore also suitable for summer. It blooms beautiful in warm weather, the musk anchors the other ingredients and ensures a good longevity for 12h+.  The overall impression is a fragrance constructed with high quakity ingredients with notes that are arranged in a wellbalanced harmony. Rouge No 1 is a true wrist sniffer,very comfortable and easy to wear.

Rouge No 1 could be interesting to those who like M.Micallef Ylang in Gold as they are close in style and also, there are similarities in the context (expect the patchouli) of Miss Dior Le Parfum and also the, IMO underestimated comfortscent, Chanel Coco Noir.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Peach, mandarine, ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine, vanilla, musk, benzoin

Annick Goutal - Les Colognes Eau d'Hadrien

Picture: Kornfeld mit Zypressen, 1888/1889
Painting by Vincent van Gogh (1853-1890) 

Annick Goutal Les Colognes is a light interpretation of some Annick Goutal fragrances form where it seems as some is disappered from the line as for example the intriguing Vétiver. Les Colognes Eau d'Hadrien could be an attempt to save this classic by interpreting it in another form and texture as the citric notes has gone true many restrictions during the lastest years which has step by step transformed the original formula to something too different. The older formula in my bottle from ca Y2K, but of course not oldest formula as Eau d'Hadrien is from the early eighties, is more lemony and dense in its structure than the paler and more woody current cologneversion.

Le Cologne Eau d'Hadrien starts with citrusnotes but to my nose there are more of the notes from the orangetree than lemonnotes in this version. Also the light fresh cypress note is much more evident than in the older version. If the old version has a color it's bright, yellow as a fresh lemon where the cologneversion is pale orange-pale-green it it had a color. To me Le Cologne Eau d'Hadrien is close to a thinner versin of Dior Escale à Portofino minus the almondnote in the latter and plus the fresh herbnotes of the former. Somewhere in the middle of Le Cologne Eau d'Hadrien a pleasant, slight bitter note of lemon cores also appears. The woody musky base are wellbalanced and the musk is pleasant, watery in texture and is probably the ingredient that provides this cologne a decent longevity. I feel traces of it in the evening after applying liberally in the morning. Perfect scent both for work (very officefriendly) and casual. Summery in style but, as with the old Eau d'Hadrien,  I would recommend wearing it on sunny winter to obtain a better longevity and to get time to catch this fine fragrance.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Lemon, tangerine, grapefruit, bergamot, petitgrain, cypress, basil, rosemary, musk

Fragrance(s) of the week (19) 2013 - Hurry up!

Picture: Miss Dior
Photo: PR Christian Dior (c)

When I a few days ago was reading  this scary entry on the parfumehistorian/perfumeexpert Octavians blog 1000Fragrances, I can not help feel contended with my perfumecollecting strategy during the latest 6-7 months. I have stocked up and complemented with some classics that I really like or think a "full" perfumecollection should contain.

Of course these classics have been reformulated many times since they first appeared but as I have understand from reading the experts as Octavian and Elena at  Perfumeshrine the new regulations will almost completely ruin many of the greats. So the latest half year I have neglected  investments in current perfumereleases, of course I have tested as many as always from samples, but as FB investments I have given the classics the total priority. And even there are some very nice stuff in the current releases tested, overall I get a greater experience with these by this operation salvaged classics as Dior Miss Dior (orginale but the version before the Orignale was added to the name) back-up bottle and Dolce Vita, back-up bottles of Thierry Mugler Angel, Guerlain Shalimar, Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue and also the 2010 version of Yves Saint Laurent Opium to spare my ca 25 ml left of the vintage Edt-version.

Today, it's only 61 days left, so hurry up if you want to be sure to secure some of the perfumelegacy for your collection.........

Picture: Guerlain Mitsouko
Photo: PR Guerlain (c)

Oriza L.Legrand - Rêve d'Ossian

Picture:Rêve d'Ossian (Ossians dream)
Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres, oil on canvas 1813
Wikimedia commons

Rêve d'Ossian from the old, established 1720 as a producer of hair and whig-powder, Oriza L.Legrand, is a woody oriental with major elements of incense. The house Oriza L.Legrand is conncting to its heritage with newly created fragrances with inspiration from the past. When it comes to Rêve d'Ossian the inspiration is to quote themarketing buzz: "Ossianizm is a romantic poetry style in Europe in the XIX centurary. Ossian is the narrator and purported author of a cycle of celtic and epic poems. Ossian was influent of the developement of the romantic movement of the XVIIIth and the XIXth century. The poems achieved international success (Napoleon Bonaparte was a great fan) and many writers, paniters and artists were influenced by the works, including Ingres, Schubert and Oriza L.Legrand Parfumes. The work also had a timly resonance for those swept away by the romantic movement and the teory of the "noble savage".

How does this romantic perfume that make us dream like Ossian smell? It depends on in which phase as Rêve d'Ossian has different guises in different stages of its dry down. Rêve d'Ossian starts as a fragrance where incense is the prominent but not totally dominant note as in most "straight forward" incensefragrances. The incense is embedded with sweet, woody and tart notes which creates an intriguing and wellbalanced composition. As Rd'O developes the incense emerges back and forward, in different strenghts and positions versus the other woody and resin notes. Even if not mentioned among the notes, to my nose vanilla or a note akin to vanilla is present in the blend. But on the other hand, vanillic notes could also be present as some vanilic substanses are extracted from wood. When Rd'O is resting in the basenotes for many hours, the sweet, woody notes at least are overcoming the incense. Especially in this stage Rd'O reminds me of a gentler and smoother version of Diors Dolce Vita, the 1990s formulation, but Dolce Vita has sharper, cedarwood notes. Also in some earlier stages when sweeter notes are interacting with the woods and incense, the latter not appearant in Dolce Vita, Dolce Vita comes to my mind. There is also a conncetion to Shiseido Feminte du Bois just as in the case of Dolce Vita. Also the beautiful, wellbalanced incensefragrances from Maria Candida Gentile Sideris and Exultat comes to my mind.These fragrances highlighting, just as Rd'O, the incense as a protagonist, but not as a note that overwhelms the other.

Rêve d'Ossian is a beautiful, a bit sweet, woody, incense perfume, the perfect comfortblanket for chilly days. A very interesting and versatile fragrance that enjoys the wearer during the whole dry down. Longevity is very good and the sillage is close to the wearer. In some stages a bit too close but strangly enough, it recovers in strange in a later phase and this "phenomen" is appearing several times during the dry down.

Rating:  5

Notes: Incense, Aldehydes, Maritime Pine, Cinnamon, Benzoin, Elemi, Tonka Bean, Guaiac Wood, Opoponax, Balsamic notes, Sandalwood, Leather, Labdanum, Amber, Musk

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample used to test this beautiful fragrance. F&A has, among others, a exquisite selection of some unusual, quality fragrances.

Rêve d'Ossian Oriza L.Legrand
Photo from Fragrance & Art 

Robert Piguet - Chai

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Chai is a green fragrance accentuated by  flowery notes grounded in subtle and smooth, lingering teanotes. Chai is a part of the Robert Piguet Pacific Collection which is created by Aurelien Guichard.

Chai starts with a burst of the same fresh teanote that is the maintheme of the classic Bulgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert. The fresh teanote quickly enters to the background but emphasizes the sparkling green freshness of the scent of just cutted  greenery and a gentle touch of white flowers, probably orangeblossom. A touch of a subdued citrusnote is also present. As Chai reaches the basenotes a wellbalanced smoky teannote joins the light teanote and the pronounced notes of greenery. A waxy note smoothens and warms the texture of Chai. Teafragrances are often cold and bright but Chai is warm and gentle in it's apperance. The smoky note is gentle, it's not the sharp smokiness of Lapsang souchong but a smooth smokiness. The smoky note reminds me somehow of a light version of the pleasant almost cigarette smoky note of my favourite Carner Barcelona, D600 . This smoky note is also present in another favourite, Annick Goutals herbal, smoky Nuit Etoilee. Finally there is (of course) also similarities to the smoky teanotes of L'Artisan Parfumeurs masterpiece Tea for Two but the smoky notes are subdued in Chai compared to Tea for two.

Chai is the perfect daytime spring and summerfragrance, also wearable in the colder month when longing for the summer. This green fragrance is suitable both for work and casual and even if bright and light in texture, Chai is sort of compact and not att all fleeting in its structure. The sillage is medium and the longevity for at least 12h.

Chai is suitable for wearers who likes the two perfumestyles indicated above: "Pure" tea fragrances and fragrances grounded with transparent, fresh lighten cigarette smoky notes. Other tea fragrances that comes to my mind when testing out Chai are Dior Escale à Pondichery (bergamot, jasmin, spices, black tea) and ByKilian Bamboo Harmony (bergamot, neroli, spices, tea).

To me Chai is the star of the Pacific Collection. An uplifting, comfortable fragrance, just in time with the color of 2013: Green.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot leaves, white tea, (white flowers), beewax, mate tea

Fragrance(s) of the week (1) 2013

Photo: Parfumista (c)

Almost every week there is a fragrance or fragrancestyle that I particulary crave. Maybe I wear the fragrance some day that particular week, just sniff it, tray it or just let the longing persist as I'm often totally off-season when it comes to what I crave and the season current. To examplify: The week before Christmas I suddenly started to long after the sparkling, grassy and green springlike Chanel No 19 Edt, this in the middle of the cold and darkest winter, with lot of snowing. The same phenomena, but in the opposite fragrancedirection, is happening in the middle of the summer, some years as early as around Midsummers Eve. Than in the warmth and brightness of the Nordic summer, I start longing for dark and deep fragrances as ambers, dark roses, ouds, patchouli. Another observation when it comes to my perfumecraving during the latest half year is an increasing need and appreciation for the classics as the classic Chanels, Guerlains, Rochas or Diors. When it comes tocontemporary perfumes, I prefer perfumes created in the classic style as the offerings of Puredistance, Parfums de Nicolï and Parfums MDCI or more complicated contemporary perfumes with many dimensions as the perfumes of Ramón Monegal, Amouage or Mona di Orio.

To conclude this philosophising: 1) Fragrancewise I'm often in the reverse season 2) Fragrancestylish the circle is completed, I'm back where it all started, with the classics or  classic styled, well-crafted fragrances.

For 2013 I will start to notice (and post) if there is a/some special weekly cravings. Here are my observations for the first week of January 2013:

- The longing for springfragrances has intensified. Today (chilly and grey outside) I'm wearing  the Guerlain iris/violet/mimosa/guerlinade classic Apres l'Ondee Edt and I'm constantly sniffing my wrists.

- The other perfume that influenced me this week and I really liked to wear at New Years Eve was a perfume that not belongs to any of the categories mentioned above: Miss Dior Le Parfum which IMHO is a well crafted, contemporary mainstream with some dept and body to it. Features that is becoming more and more rare these days,  both within mainstream and niche.

Versace - Vanitas Edt

Picture: Idleness, John William Godward , 1900,
Wikimedia commons

Some days I just want to wear a fragarnce that just smells incredible good and that not distracts with strange twists that urges for a constant analyze. Such a fragrance is Versace Vanitas Edt, created by Dora Baghriche-Arnaud, a fresher interpretation of the Edp which was launched last year.

Vanitas Edt starts with a blast of sparkling yellow and white flowers grounded on an mellow, tropical, almosfruity accord that is not overly sweet and accentuating the flowers and gives them a depth. In the earlier stages of Vanitas Edt there is a bit of, but not fully developed, watery-flowery accord in the lotus flower style, like in Water Calligraphy by ByKilian and Gala de Dia by Loewe. As the fragrance dries down the watery texture gradually softens but doesn’t disappear completely. Also in the base the flowers is the most distinguished notes even if grounded on woody and teanotes according to the notelist.

Vanitas Edt is a sophisticated floral fragance with notes that feels almost fruity in the background. It’s a grown up floral, far away from the sweet, pink, young-girlish style.There is also no shrillness as in some Versace creations, neither it reflects the sometimes almost vulguar noveau riche style of the Versace couture. The almost fruity light sweetness, I think it’s the freesia that dominates the blend, smells almost natural, like mango and papaya, and there is no chemical vibes that could be prominent in some fragrances in this style.

Vanitas Edt is suitable for those who enjoy Amouage Honour Woman, Ormonde Jayne Tiare, Dior Pure Poison and First by Van Cleef & Arpels even if the latter is a grand, soapy 70s aldehydic, the lustre and elegance in apparance is similar.

Vanitas Edt is elegant but also relaxing and comfortable, perfect for daytime wear year around and it really blooms in humid weather which was the curicumstances when I tested it. I also think it would be a terrific fragrance to wear during lazy summerdays and warm summerevenings. Longevity is very good, at least 12h and the sillage is medium.

Rate: 4

Notes: Freesia, rose, osmanthus, tiareflower, cedarwood, black tea

Oscar de la Renta - Live in Love

Picture:Flower of Nelumbo nucifera, bean of India
Photo by T Voelker, (CC) some rights reserved, Wikimedia commons

Live in Love is an elegant, easy to wear, daytime green floral created for Oscar de la Renta by three perfumers in colaboration: Jean-Marc Chaillan, Carlos Benaim and Ann Gottlieb.

Live in love, despite its notes of classic though green notes as bergamott, hyacinth and galbanum, starts as a modern, fresh, clean green floral but without either the detergent note or the "just climbing out from the shower"freshness. The flowers are bright but not weak in appearence and there is also a complementing, subdued fruitiness present. All together this creates a watery impression, as of waterflowers in a pond. There is similarities with ByKilian Water Calligraphy and with the overall impression of Bulgari Omina Coral even if that one is much more fruity and sharp compared to the better balanced Live in Love.

After a while a shining almost incenselike note appears and starts to interact with the wet florals and their supprting slight fruity notes. This incensenote create an interesting contrast to the fruity notes and helps to put them forward. The incense like note I think is a subdued ginger and maybe traces of soft cedarwood (if looking at the notelist anyway).A very successful ginger interpretation as ginger often is too screamy, bubbeling andspritzy, almost as an overdose of  freshly minced white pepper.This interesting and appealing interaction between the "incense" and the fruity-floral notes goes on duirng the middlenotes and as the ginger tunes down the flowery/fruity notes lands in a pleasant woody, musky base.

Live in Love with it's sort of unsweet elegant slight fruity,wet floral, green notes and the classical ingredients (galbanum, hyacinth, bergamot) interpreted in a modern way is the perfect officescent suitable year around but especially for spring, summer and the early autumn. It's present but quite close to the wearer and can't offend (almost) anyone. The longevity is great,it lasts for 24h.

Live in Love is an evidence that good "mainstream"/designerfragrances could be created today also. It's seems that Oscar de la Renta has revived some of it's former glory in perfume especially with the launch of the beautiful aldehydic composition Esprit d'Oscar but also Live in Love is a good example of what could be created if the intention is there. The coming Essential Luxuries seems also very interesting and I hope I get the opportunity to smell them later on.

Live in Love could be appreciated for the fans of the fragrances mentioned above but also for those who like Dior Escale à Pondichery, Gala de Dia (review in swedish) by Loewe and By Kilian Bamboo Harmony.

Rating: 4

Notes: Hyacinth, galbanum, bergamot, lily-of-the-valley, orchid, jasmine, orange flower, rose sandalwood, cedar, woodsy notes, amber, musk

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier - Soie Rouge

Picture: Gartennelke (Dianthus caryophyllus)

Photo: Darkone (cc) Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

MPG:s Soie Rouge is one of several fragrances that was launched when Jean Laporte started the MPG house in 1988. Soie Rouge is MPG::s interpretation of the, to my nose, difficult note carnation. I'm not particulary fond of carnation dominated fragrances,Carons Bellodgia is to strong and clovy, Etros Dianthus too clovy and Serge Lutens Vitrioil d'Oeillet to weak on the cranation.

Soie Rouge starts with somthing like a dry fruity mess accompanied by a slight laudry/detergent smell. Fortunately this part is passing quickly and than a more pleasent note that seems familiar to the passionflower in MPG Fraiche Passiflore passes by. After fifteen to thirty minutes the carnation takes the centerplace and the fruity notes are tuned down to a supporting background. The carnation is without that mandatory clove which I find to be a great relief. A clean carnation supported by a soft, dimmed fruitiness and a something smooth, creamy, that reminds me of a rose note, even if it's not among the ingredients. All the notes are resting on a rather pale musky, sandalwoody base. Soie Rouge recalls memories from my childhood, from dinners in my grandmothers beautiful Jugendhaus. Probably  handsome aunt Birgit was the one that wore the carnation, maybe Bellodgia. My own mother was even then faithful to Dior; mostly Diorissimo but also Miss Dior, Dioressence and Diorama. How I wish she hadn't use up those bottles....

Soie Rouge is a good carnation, the best tested so far to me. I like that it's not paired and soaked with clove and more true to the flower. The blend is soft and very polite to be a MPG of 1988, the sillage is very colse to the skin and there is some longevity issues. But on the other hand, I have put Soie Rouge on a hard test: Shuffling heavy snow during an hour in the cold swedish winter, it is probably not fair to judge.

Update August 2012: Fortunately the winter has not arrived yet here in the north, there is still summer :-) This review was written when I tested Soie Rouge last winter and has been waiting in the archives since then.
Rating: 3

Notes: Pineapple, dried fruits, carnation, iris, jasmine, heliotrophe, apricot, musk, sandalwood, amber

The mainstream niche

As I strolled around in the local chain-perfumstore some perfumed insights just popped up. In these days when the launches of many nichelines becomes more and more bland and not distinguishable from other niche and mainstream offerings (we can call it "mainstremification" of the niche) an opposing movement occurs automatically when it comes to some "mainstream" parfumes or maybe better referred to "designer"parfumes. Just looking around in the ordinary assortment of the chainstore I visited, I came to some conclusions:

- The classics still remaining in the assortment  is way more interesting then the majority of the new niche realeases. A perfume that have survived five to ten years or more, even if gradually reformulated, has stood the test of time and is something special. Examples: Rive Gauche (YSL), No 5 & Coco (Chanel), Angel & Alien (Thierry Mugler), Infusion d'Iris (Prada), Aromatic Elixir (Clinique)

- There are good new releases too, even if increasingly rarer (in relative terms) i.e exactly the same phenomen as in the niche sector. From the latest two years: Esprit d'Oscar (Oscar de la Renta), Le Parfum (Elie Saab),  No 19 Poudre (Chanel), Body (Burberry), Candy (Prada).

- The, in some cases quite distinctive reformulations of some fragrances, with the new Dior policy as a hallmark, suddenly makes a ten year old bottle with an pre-reformulation formula to an almost niche fragrance. Examples are of course in particualar from the Dior range: Dior Addict, Dune, Miss Dior Cherie Edp. I will  definitely treasure my (not so) old Diors :-).

-This store had a tester of Miss Dior labled as that and not the new Miss Dior Originale. I bet the MDO version formula is somehow tweaked too.

When writing this I'm yearning for these and other distinctive "mainstream" fragrances. As I'm almost always  sampling different nichefragrances, a week or two in "mainstream" would be a great relief.

Lalique - Eau de Lalique

Picture: Anethum graveolens,

Prof. Dr. Otto Wilhelm Thomé Flora von Deutschland, Österreich und der Schweiz 1885, Gera, Germany, Wikimedia Commons (GFDL by Kurt Stueber)

Scroll down for a summary in english.
Den anrika franska glasdesignerfirman Lalique har som många känner till även en parfymlinje. Detta är helt logiskt då Lalique skapat vackra parfymfalkonger sedan det tidiga nittonhundratalet. Eau de Lalique är en skapelse av Jean-Claude Ellena, strax innan han blev husnäsa hos Hermès, och Emelie Coppermann.

Eau de Lalique är en i mitt tycke typisk transparant men ändå inte flyktig Ellena-komposition. Jag känner igen drag från hans klassiska och banbrytande gröna the-komposition för Bulgari, Eau Parfumee au the vert men Eau de Lalique har en lite annan inriktning, den är en mer lätt men kallt kryddig cologne. Eau de Lalique inleds med noter av bland annat dill. Dillnoten känns tydligt en mycket kort stund i inledningen men sedan blandar den upp sig med bland annat citrusfrukter, kardemumma, lätta blomnoter, kådor och trä. Eau de Lalique är en slags orientalisk cologne och mig ger den ungefär samma känsla som Diors av Indien inspirerade Escale à Pondichery, även om den senare domineras av jasmin och svarta thenoter. På mig framträder framförallt Eau de Laliques kardemumma under hela doftens nedtorkning men trä, blomma  och citrusfrukter tonar ned kardemumman till en lagom nivå. Framåt kvällen återstår en träigt, kallt kryddig, vit myskig bas med en klar orientalisk touch, hela doften känns i det avslutande skedet mycket mörkare, som om det inte varit en lättare doft under dagen. Eau de Lalique är lite av en kameleont.

Eau de Lalique är i mitt tycke en fräsch doft utan att vara aqua-kemisk i stilen. Den är perfekt sommartid och håller väldigt bra om man inte under-applicerar. Men det är också en doft som passar bra om man vill ha något fräscht för att bryta av från de tyngre dofter som jag ofta använder under höst/vinter, och fast jag inte "borde", under stor del av våren. Doften är klassad som unisex vilket jag håller med om även om den har en liten dragning åt det feminina hållet om man ska vara stockkonservativ i sin bedömning.

Sammanfattningsvis är Eau de Lalique en mycket användbar doft av bra kvalitet som är enkel och avslappnande att bära. Ingen direkt intellektuell utmaning med konstigheter eller krusiduller något som kan vara väldigt befriande ibland.

Summary: Eau de Lalique is a versatile scent, easy and relaxing to wear. An unusual opening accompanied with a dillnote, followed by a wellbalanced thenote combined with some citrus, light flowers and a cardamonnote over a wood-musky base. Unisex, leaning slightly to the feminine side. Perfect for summer with it's good longevity even when hot or humid weatherconditions. With Ellena as co-perfumer it's not surprising that Eau de Lalique has some similarities with Eau Parfumee au the vert. The flowery notes blended with cardamon also gives me associations to Dior Escale à Pondichery  I precieve the same feeling. Eau de Lalique is not directly an intellectual challenge with oddities or frills but that's is very relieving at times.

Rating: 4

Notes: Mandarine, bergamot, pimento, citron, dill, cardamom, cinnamon, hibiscus, freesia, gaiac- and sandalwood, benzoin, musk.

Histoires de Parfums - Tubereuse 2 Virginale

Picture: Prunus Avivum, Vogel-Kirsche im Früling

Photo: Benjamin Gimmel (BenHur), (cc) Wikimedia commons,

some rights reserved

Tubereuse 2 Virginale is the second installment in the Histoires de Parfums Tubereuse triology, created by the HdP house founder the  ISIPCA-graduated Gérald Ghislain and Magali Senequier ( I think). The Tubereuse triology is a suite of different interpretations of tubereuse or more precise, perfumes with tubey as the common denominator but not necessarily tubereuse as the dominant note of the composition.

T 2 Virginale is like it's name indicates a  bright, happy and cheerful white flowery scent with fruity accents. Virginale starts with a fresh, not at all sweet, cloying, cherry note. The note, accented with an almost peppery/insence note, is transparent in style. A hint of the smell of nailpolish whirls thoriug the scent after a while, but not at all in a unpleasent way. Soon thereafter there is also an accord that reminds me of a lip balm of my youth, don't remember it's name. It was american, the container was black with a white cap and the grease was in a pale pink nuance. Later in the middlenotes, bright and quite transparent white flowers intensifies the tubey is there but interwowen with the other white flowers in a boquet. In the background something sweet and almost gourmandy lurks, I almost recognize a tuned down version of the strawberry popcornnote of the original Christine Nagel 2005 composition of Miss Dior Cherie Edp. The basenotes of  T Virginale 2 are slight clean musky but in the right proportion, not the detergent clean musk but a nice white musk. There is also some patchouli in hte base, but in a gentler dose than in MDC Edp.

T 2 Virginale is a nice, inoffensive scent, perfect for officewear in spring and summer but also during the other seasons when longing for summer. Good, wellbalanced and very wearable.

Rating: 3

Notes: Cherry, mandarin, iris, tuberose, tiare flower, frangipani, blond wood, patchouli, vanilla, white musk

By Kilian - Bamboo Harmony

Bamboo Harmony is the other of the two Calice Becker fragrances released 2012 in the ByKilian Asian Tales line.The line is planned to continue at least five fragrances which will be launched during the next three years.

As with Water Calligraphy earlier this week, I've recognize another fragrance immediately when spraying BH. This time I recognize a smoother Escale à Pondichéry by Dior in the earlier stages of the dry down infused with some hints of Keiko Mecheris Les Nuits D'Izu. After a while BH is back on the smoother EsP trail, with less spices, tea and jasmine than EsP BH is a nicer and more polite version on the citrus-tea-aromatic-flowery theme. Nice, pleasant, refreshing and harmless, this is the perfect officescent for summer. Also as well suited for casual wear.

Well blended and polished, no harsh or sharp notes but unoriginal and somehow dull to be an expensive By Kilian frag.

Rating: 3

Notes: Bergamot, neroli, bigaride, tea, mimosa, spices, oakmoss, holly, figleaves

Carner Barcelona - Tardes

Picture: Tardes, afternon in the countryside

Photo: Carner Barcelona (c)

Carner Barcelona Tardes is created by one of my favourite perfumers Daniela Andrier, the housenose of Prada.In Tardes the founder of the house of Carner, Sara Carner, through Andriers nose will capture the peaceful summerafternoons in the catalonian countryside.

Tardes starts with slight chemical notes that disappears very fast and an airy almond shines through. Soon the almond is supported by flowers and some light herbal notes and it's not hard to imagine the source of inspiration to this balmy and calming fragrance. Tardes is fairly liniear during it's dry down and heliotrophe and musk are supporting and deepen the other notes in the base. I can feel a minior trace of the fresh lighted cigarettenote that I appreciate in D600 in the base, but it is just fragments compared to D600 . Maybe this cigarettenote is a part of the housenote of Parfums Carner, probably it's a part of the musk used in the base.
Tardes is an airy almondfragrance, not surprisingly as it's a creation of the queen of transparency and airiness Daniela Andrier. Tardes is not as sweet as most fragrances with almond as the dominating note. Fragrances as Etros Heliotrophe which has about the same sweetness but has more heliotrophe and tonka then Tardes, Kiss me tender (swedish) by Patricia de Nicolaï which is a pastry take on almond and heliotrophe which almost feels like marzipan. Fragrances as Dior Hypnotic Poison (swedish) and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Castelbajac  (swedish) also features almond but are completely different, denser types of fragrances. Keiko Mecheris Taormine (swedish) is also a different almond, it's creamy and smells similar to an almondy bodylotion. Even if Tardes is slight gourmandy it somehow remains fresh in caracter during it’s whole dry down. Tardes is a very longlasting fragrance that remains unfragemented on skin after a whole day. The projection is fairly close.
The overall impression of Tardes is the airy, gourmandy and almost chilly expression that is also present in another late Daniela Andrier creation, Prada Candy (swedish). As Tardes was launched 2010 and Candy 2011 it is quite likely that the perfumer has worked almost simultaneously with the fragrances and they therefore shares the same theme but using almond as the major note in Tardes and benzoin/resins in Candy. Of the two, I prefer Tardes whith it's fine tuned, almondy, floweriness.

Tardes, as well as my other favourite D600, is a wellcrafted, comfortable and wearable fragrance.It is appropriate for daytime, both casual and to work. An almond that is suitable also in summer due to it's Andrierian transparency and almost chilly airiness.

Rating: 4

Update summer 2013: Rating 5. After wearing from the sample some more times, I totally adore the almond-rosewood-heliotrope combination. Just great and FBW.

Notes: Geranium, rose, rosewood, almond, cedar, plum, celery, tonka, musk, heliotrope

Carner Barcelona - D600

Picture: D600 by Carner Barcelona. This image

perfectly captures the spirit of D600. Photo by Carner Barcelona (c).

The scents of Carner Barcelona is sometimes accused to be to close to other, preferably better mainstream, fragrances. But with the multitude of fragrancereleases of today, which houses are not, and I can't see that Carner stands out among the other regarding this. Even if Cuirs that I reviewed in November last years resembles some other niche releases in the oud-saffron-leather category it's a well done fragrance which fully can compete with the other mentioned. But now, over to the todays subject - D600.

D600 is one of the two initial fragrances for the house of Carner, founded by Sara Carner in 2010. In the fragrances Sara will capture the spirit of her hometown Barcelona and it's catalonian surroundings through the compositions of different perfumers. In D600 the perfumer Christophe Raynaud  hits the target: D600 is the smell of La Rambla a warm summernight, it perfectly captures the modern pulse of the medivial city. D600 starts with notes thats resembles the smoke of a fresh lighted cigarette mingled with iris and jasmine . Later on the blend becomes more flowery with some discrite citric notes well blended, but in a urban, subdued way. There is also a sort of putty, slight lipsticky note that surrounds the flowers which is very pleasant. The base is light vetiver, woody well balanced with a vanillic touch and the light, freshly lighted cigarettenote consists and deepens during the evolution of the basenotes. In the end, blended with the vanilla, there is an almost edible, light gourmand accord. Something also is reminding me of The Different Company Oriental Lounge (in swedish).

D600 is a very comfortable scent, unisex but to my nose it's leaning to the feminine side as opposed to Dior Homme (different versions) which it's sometimes is said to be too similar to. To my nose there is similarities in style and in the irisnote but I think DH is much more lipsticky and the iris is louder and more cosmetic in feel and so is the whole DH fragrance. In D600 the jasmine is almost equal to the irisnote and I can't find the fresh ligheted cigarettenote in DH. Another frag that comes to my mind when sniffing the cigarettenote is Etat Libre D'Oranges Jasmin et Cigarettes but in this scent the cigarettenote paired with jasmine on me,  precipitates in the most unpleasent way. D600 is a much more successful interpretation of the flowery cigarette theme. D600 also intermediate a sort of urban, vegetal feeling that I also can recognize in Annick Goutals Nuit Etoilée . There is also a touch of hot asphalt like in Keiko Mecheris Mulholland (swedish), even if Mulholland is a citrusfrag with winy accords.

Overall, D600 is a pleseant, comfortable fragrance very versatile, the type of fragrance which is essential those days when it's hard to choose which frag to wear. The longevity is satisfactory and the fragrance is interesting during it's whole dry down.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, pepper, iris, jasmine, cardamom, vetiver, cedarwood, vanilla

Thanks to Carner Barcelona for sending a sample for test.

Valentino - Valentina

Bild: Valentina reklambild från Valentino (c)

For an english version, scroll down.

Valentina är skapad för huset Valentino av välkända parfymörerna Alberto Morillas och Oliver Cresp. Den presenteras i en mycket vacker flaska. Själva doften är en typisk ung, modern à la 2011 vit blommig floral över en clean vanilj och träbas med lite skalad ambra.

Valentina inleds med lite dämpat, spritsigt, lätt citrusliknande med inslag av de vita blommorna. De vita blommorna, speciellt apelsinblomman blir sedan tydligare för att sedan mingla ihop och söta till sig med en lätt bärig not. När Valentina nått basen finns där lätt vanilj, ambra och lite trä, en snäll och mjäkig bas, en dussinvara. Valtentina påminner om många dofter i den ordinarie doftbilden lite light Miss Dior Cherie, lite Elie Saab blandad med allmän vanilj doft. I basen finns något som påminner om en skalad och pastellblek version av Diesel Loverdose.

Vad har jag då att säga om Valentina? Tja, smells najs aber überhaupt nicht intressant. Inte för en tant som jag i alla fall, men Valentina är också främst tänkt för en yngre generation damer.

Positivt är att Valentina inte har någon tydlig tvättmedelsnot även om den känns syntetisk och att den trots smultron inte är bärigt sötsliskig som så många dofter riktade till den yngre generationen. Valentina är inte heller, som så många dofter marknadsförda mot den yngre generationen, billigt vulgär och flamsigt fnissig utan den har faktiskt viss klass, är rätt diskret och lite posh.

Valentina is created for the italian fashionhouse Valentino by the famous perfumers Alberto Morillas and Oliver Cresp. It is presented in a beautiful bottle that fits the scent, a typical young, modern à la 2011 stripped down white floral over a clean vanilla and wood base with a little scaled amber.

Valentina begins a little muted, sparkling, slightly citruslike with hints of white flowers. The white flowers, especially orange flower then becomes clearer and then mingle together and sweetens with a light berry note. When Valentina reached the base there is a straight forward vanilla, amber and a hint of wood, a kind and almost meeky base, that could be recognized a variety of contemorary creations. The whole perfume also recalls many scents in the regular scentpicture a bit of a Miss Dior Cherie light, some Elie Saab mixed with a general vanilla scent. The base is somewhat reminiscent of a scaled and pastel pale version of Diesel Loverdose.

What do I have to say about Valentina? Well, smells nice aber nicht überhaupt interesting. Not for an old lady like me anyway, Valentina is primarily intended for a younger generation.

The good news is that Valentina, even if it smells smooth synthetic, has no obvious clean detergentnote. The wild strawberry note is not sharp sugary, as in the case of many fragrances targeted to the younger generation. Valentina is not, as so many fragrances marketed towards the young ones, cheap, vulgar and giggly, it actually has some class, it's quite subtle and a bit posh.

Rating: 3

Notes: Bergamot, truffle, orangeblossom, jasmine, tuberose, strawberry, cedarwood, amber, vanilla

Thanks to Escentual for the sample of Valentina 

Isabey - L'Ambre de Carthage

Picture: Ruins of the Punic Quarter on the Byrsa hill, Carthage.

Photo: BishkekRocks, (cc) Wikimedia Commons.

From the description of L'Ambre de Carthage, it seems that the 2011 introduced fragrance  is a reworking of a Isabey oriental from 1924. The fragrance is intended to be "pour homme" but to me L'AdC is totally unisex.

When first applied L'AdC somehow reminds me of Dune by Dior. Later in the drydown there is also similarities with Scent Intense by Costume National but L'AdC is more ambery and has no special characteristics as SI:s the- and hibiscusnotes. L'AdC to me is a typical, contemporary, resiny amber, with some incense and I also think I can sniff my good friend mr Ambrox in the mixture. Nice blend but very conventional. Nothing like my favourite ambers, the two opposite interpretations of  amber: The dark, dirty, animalic  L'Ombre Fauve from Parfumerie Generale or the sparkling, crackling dry, gunpowdery Les Nombres d'Or Ambre from Mona di Orio.

L'AdC is a well-behaved and well balanced blend of good quality. It is wearable in various situations during the cold season and for evenings during the summer. L'AdC has a good sillage and the longivety is at least twelve hours. But despite all it's merits, L'AdC doesn't move me at all. Sample from good ol' Aus Liebe zum Duft

Rating: 3

Notes: Bergamot, labdanum, osmanthus, jasmin, amber, olibanum, sandalwood, patchouli

Osorterat om parfym så här i elfte timmen av 2011...

Bild: Mysko stenformation från sommaren 2011.

Snart är vi där igen! Foto Herr Parfumista (c)

Så var det då nyårsafton igen och jag får inte ihop något stort, intelligent och sammanfattande inlägg över parfymåret som gått. Här kommer istället aktuella parfymtankar och liknande, kanske speglar det i sitt osorterade skick ända parfymåret 2011.

* Är den tvättmedelsnot av typen dyrt, lyxtvättmedel som vi numera känner i kreationer från nichehus som Maison Francis Kurkdjian, APOM pour Femme respektive APOM pour Homme, L'Eau Serge Lutens och Puredistance Antonia, ersättaren för den härligt tvåliga not som fanns i det sena sjuttio- och det tidiga åttitalets häftiga aldehydparfymer. Fast denna megasoapiness anses idag tydligen som daterad. Får bara vara en bråkdel som i Pradas Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger som ändå blir utskälld. Detta medans tvättmedelsnoten ändå slinker igenom, dock under en del kritik, men då mer utifrån att den tillhör "mainstream" än noten som sådan.

* Viktig info till alla Dior Homme älskare som vill hamstra originalversionen. Klipp ur kommentar från Pojkfröken som precis som vanligt har örnkoll på läget:

"Åh, Dior Homme! Jämförde originalet med reformuleringen nyligen och skillnaden är påtaglig, den mer klara irisnoten är inte där längre :(( men den är fortfarande bra, nevertheless. Versionerna skiljer sig åt gm att originalet har kromat "rör" och nyutgåvan har ett svart."

Alltså håll koll på rören!

* Appropå Dior, parfymhuset som personifierar varumärkesvanvård. Det sägs att man reformulerar om det mesta för närvarande, som jag nämnt i ett tidigare inlägg (våras/tidig sommar) om att man "tar hem" dofterna från de stora doftföretagen som äger själva formulan. När man sedan ska blanda själv måste man ändra ganska märkbart i kompositionen så att det inte kan klassas som ett plagiat av den formula som doftföretaget äger.

* Det är alltså med tanke på ovan inte särskilt konstigt att mötas av den trista nyheten att en av mina vinterfavoriter Dior Addict tydligen bara är en skugga av sitt forna jag, en flytande vålnad. Har själv inte doftat på reformuleringen men gjorde det med Dune vilket inte var någon trevlig upplevelse. Det positiva är att jag plötsligt sitter på en vintage Addict med en flaska från 2007.

* När det gäller alla Best of 2011 listor som precis publicerats så är de ganska lika i temat. Klart är i alla fall att jag måste sniffa på Bottega Veneta för den finns med på nästan varenda lista. Frågan är om den klår MPG:s Cuir Fetiche, det verkar som om färre har sniffat på den.

* Så till doften för aftonen, det blir fullt klart en hyllning till Mona. Antingen en skvätt av Oud eller Nuit Noire som jag hade nyårsafton för två år sedan. NN passar nyårsaftnar tycker jag. Tubereuse är också en runner up i det vårvinterliknande vädret.

* På tal om svenskars favoritämne vädret: Jag tycker att den varma vintern är très bien! Jag känner för att använda nästan alla delar av parfymgarderoben, undantag de allra lättast blommiga som typ Diorissimo men jag får säkert snart en dragning även till denna typ av doft. Det har ju börjat ljusna, i alla fall i teorin. De senaste två vargavintrarna har det blivt ett ganska ensidigt användande av orientaler och gourmander, dessa trevliga doftfamiljer får alltså tuff konkurrens den här vintersäsongen. Oj, nu känner jag plötsligt för en doft som jag förknippar med tidig vår: Donna Karan Gold.

* Nyårslöften, är så trött på detta, för de fallerar redan i slutet av januari varje år och slår snarare över åt andra hållet. De brukar vara: Nästan köpstopp på flaskor, prova de prover jag har mer och vara restriktiv med nya provanskaffningar. I år struntar jag i detta och kommer därmed säkert att lyckas bättre men parfym är ju mitt stora intresse so what the heck.....

* Har som sista projekt 2011 börjat twittra.Visserligen ännu ett tidskonsumerande moment i en vardag fylld av tidsbrist. Men det är ett bra format att sända iväg en och annan parfymerad tanke och väldigt lämpad för att få en överblick av mina SOTD:s (Scent Of To¨Day). Dessutom att sätt att träna på att bli mer kortfattad, har en tendens att bli långrandig när jag är inne i mitt favoritämne. Nu har jag just varit mer än lovligt långrandig och:

Jag önskar alla Parfymälskare (och eventuella andra som råkat hamna här) ett Gott Nytt 2012!

Julklappstips i sista minuten

Late to the party! Både Pojkfröken och Parfymbloggen har redan klarat av detta tema med listningar på lämpliga dofter för olika kategorier nära och kära. Eftersom jag instämmer i mycket är det ingen mening att börja göra en lista här också men här några ytterligare tips:

* Ett väl beprövat tips är att vänta till presentförpackningarna säljs ut i mellandagsrean. Ofta är det 30-50 % och vill man inte kladda med tillhörande bodylotions etc så är medföljande produkt perfekt att ge bort. Själv har jag smått börjat fundera på presentförpackningen av Victor & Rolfs Flowerbomb.

*Såg i ett av de stora varuhusen en 15 ml flaska (minst) av DKNY Be Delicious dvs det ursprungliga gröna äpplet vilket "faktiskt" är en riktigt bra komposition, till ett pris av SEK 165. Överkomligt  om man vill komplettera sin doftgarderob med en klassiker som denna Granny Smith - kreation numera är.

* Vill man som Pojkfröken både riskminmera och slippa trängas på sta'n så hinner man ta en titt hos trevliga niche-webbshopen/butiken Fragrance & Art. För den som vill riska i det lilla så borde paktetet hinna fram till julafton då 3-5 dagars leveranstid anges.

* Kan trots allt (med risk för att få min objektivitet ifrågasatt) inte låta bli att hinta om några bra dofter från ovanstående sortiment då jag provat en del av dofterna under hösten:

- Azemour les Orangers (Parfum d'Empires): Tänka sig att det anno 2011, restriktioner och annan goja till trots, faktiskt går att göra en klassisk citrus chypre av 70-talssnitt tänk Chanel Cristalle EDT och Eau de Rochas. Men så har också Parfum d'Empires ägare, tillika husnäsa Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, förutom en doktorsgrad i kemi i botten också examen från absoluta toppparfymörskolan École Internationale de Parfumerie de Versailles (ISIPCA). Review här.

- Myrrhiad (Huitieme Art Parfums): Om än inte lika toppskolad, här är det vad jag vet "bara" kemistexamen i botten, men med en pappa som lyckligtvis innehar en kemifabrik där någon produktionslina kunde ställas om, så lyckas snyggingparfymören Pierre Guillaume med det mesta han tar sig för. Så även i mytiska myrra, svart the och lakritsbrygden Myrrhiad som förresten reviewas i morgon.

- Pepper/Poivre (Place des Lieces): En straight-forward peppar-kryddblandning som på mig faller ut i en frisk rökelsedoft, se review härom veckan.

* Både Pojkfröken och Julia nämner två Dior Homme versioner, Intense respektive Sport. Jag vill även lägga till den ordinarie Dior Homme samt skicka ut en varning: Enligt tillförlitliga källor i parfymbloggosfären är Dior Homme under reformulering och denna innebär att man tonar ned den häftiga läppstiftsaktiga irisnoten till förmån till mer trä dvs DH kommer att mer likna andra herrdofter :-( . Så DH-fantasten bör  för säkerhets skull dammsuga markanden efter äldre flaskor dvs hitta någon affär med lägre omsättningshastighet på produkten. Vet inte om man ändrat på förpackningen/flaskan vilket brukar vara tecknet på en lite större reformulering.

Nej nu måste jag göra något vettigt, som att dekantera prover till julklappar. Också ett sista minuten tips till julklapp från en parfymnörd till någon med ett spirande intresse.

Ha en bra söndag!

Mona di Orio - Les Nombres d'Or Oud

Picture: Harem scene with the Sultan, Jean-Baptiste van Mohr (1671-1737)

1st half of 18th century, Badisches Landesmuseum, Wikimedia Commons,

some rights reserved

Mona di Orios Oud is a beautiful flowery, woody, dry perfume with green facets. The oud is not predominant, it's one of the very well blended woody notes and it is light, bright, shining and transparent . The oudnote feels somehow green compared to the dark oud-notes in the Montales, By Kilians and  Amouages.

In the topnotes and the beginning of the middlenotes there is muted citrusnotes, some light peppery notes and there is the osmanthusflower, that takes the centerstage. As Oud dries down it gradually developes in the wooden territory, first a light and dry wood with supporting green notes that feels exactly as green and fresh as when rubbing the leaves of a certain geranium plant, Graveolens/ Rose Geranium (or in swedish Doctor Westerlunds healthplant). This fresh green is contrasting to the dry woody notes which deepens as Oud developes further. According to the list of ingridienses there is no Rose Geranium in Oud but the notes creates something similar, in a toned down version. In the beautiful and lingering woody basenotes the green component change a bit and reminds me of eucalyptus. Oud induces a image of precious dry wood in antique oriental furnitures, chests and couches from the harem, beautiful, shimmering, heavy fabrics as silk and velvet and in the middle of all this; the note that reminds med of rose geranium and later of eucalyptus, as a healty, brisk and fresh element.

Mona di Orios Oud is a difficult fragance and I understood it, at least partly, after I have tested it for the fourth time and I don't know if I really get Oud yet. I think this is a perfume that will show the wearer different aspects during different wearings. By the first times testing Oud I was disappointed as I had tremendoues expectations. At first I thought it was too flowery and to thin. Probably I applied to litttle of Oud as I'm used to more potent ouds where I have to be very careful when applying. The sample is also a splashsample and probably it is better to spray the fragrance. But Oud is a fragrance that wins in the long run and by now I really appreciate Oud and admire the beautiful, high quality composition.  Before I was fully convinced and saved by Oud there where some (as I experienced it the first three wearings) setbacks: Oddly enough, in some stages Oud reminds me of a dry and refined version of Dior Addict and also of some parts of Diors Dune. Even if I love both those Diors, I don't expect them to show up in Monas expensive and exclusive creation. But now when I'm enligthed it's totally fine for me. Another scent that I feel some similarities with is Mona di Orios Ambre but that one i more sharp in its woodiness.

Oud is a timeless fragrance that could be used on many occasions. The sillage is low but the scent is very distinct to the wearer and those who comes close. The longevity is great, Oud lasts for at least 24 hours. It is also a relaxing fragrance, perfect for calming down. But on the other hand I feel relaxed from most of Monas fragrances, so maybe the relaxing vibes are a typical hallmark of Mona.

As I find different twists in Oud when apply it more liberally, I have to revisit my sample later to update my impressions. And when the sample is finished I have to acquire another one as know that Mona di Orios Oud is a fragance that I have to have within reach. As there is real and not syntetic oud in Oud it will be very interesting to smell if later batches of the perfume will smell different beacause of different vintages of oud. But as it smells in the current blend I almost think that my travel in Perfumeland is over, that I at last have found the ulitmate creation. But as a true Perfumista, I know that feeling will not last for long. But Mona di Orios Oud is definitly one of the top ten I have tried so far.

Rating: 5+

Notes: Petit grain, elemi, mandarin, osmanthus, nagarmotha, patchouli, cedar, amber, oud