Love Chanel

Picture: Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel
Photo from the blog The Encanted Manor

Chanel is a house with an aesthetics to love (just as Hermès). The chic aesthetics  also affects, or maybe more correct, inspires the fragrances from the house. The fragrances are well made and even if not in love with every subline, my craving for Chanel fragrances is enough to qualify Chanel as one of my favorite perfumehouses. I think many of the Chanels in the regular line is as good as Les Exclusifs, the difference is more in price and distribution, not the quality of the production.

I very much appreciate the aldehydic classics like No 5 in its difierent versions, as also the mossy citrus of Cristalle and the greenery of No 19 in the different interpretations of those classics. Also the modern classics as the incredible spicy oriental Coco and the not as much talked about gem Allure Sensuelle are favorites as also the mega hit, the contemporary fruity-floral chypre Coco Mademoiselle and its balsamic, spicy follower Coco Noir.

When it comes to Les Exclusifs there are also plenty to love. The green and clean woody vetiver Sycomore, the putty, slight dirty aldehyde No 22, the strange amberette No 18, the elegant flowers of Beige and best of them all the smooth, light flower touched, gunpowder leather of Cuir de Russie.

I'm now curious to try the new Gabrielle and find out if the new Chanel pillar fragrance will qualify among my favourites.

Perris Monte Carlo - Santal du Pacifque EDP & Extrait

Picture: Staute of Ganesha in sandalwood
Photo by Ricce
Wikimedia commons 

The Santal du Pacifque duo (Edp & Extrait) was released 2016 together with the Absolue d'Osmanthus duo from monegasque perfumhouse Perris Monte Carlo. Both are a part of a range of perfumes which presents  "singlenotes" in different settings and interpretations. Here is my previous reviews of the line.

Picture: Santal du Pacifique EDP
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Santal du Pacifique starts with a warm, sparkling, transparent sandalwood. with a prominent fignote. I think fig is a part of sandalwood as it's present also in for example By Kilian Sacred Wood  which is the sandalwood fragrance which is most similar to Santal du Pacifique from what I come to think of when wearing Santal du Pacifique especially in the Edp concentration. The Edp concentration is woodier and denser than the Extrait which emphasizes the flowery and light spicy aspects of sandalwood. Both versions lacks the cocoa accent which is present in sandalwoodfragranceas as Sacred Wood and Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule and are therefore lighter in apperance. The Edp is deeper, warm, smooth woody as one can imagine the scent of a piece of polished sandalwood in the sunset, warmed by the sun during the day. There are also darker, a bit pleasant dirty barnyardnotes glimpsing from the depts of the Edp contrasting the fresh sandalwood. In the later stages the SdP Edp reminds me lot of Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore Edt but less green.As the latter has sandalwood as a prominent note beside the vetiver, that's not surprising especially as both fragrances has the similar tonality on the fragrance notescale. When it comes to the Extrait this version,as mentioned above, is more of a arier, soft woody floral with some warm dry salty, spicy elements. In the middlenotes there are also contrasting notes of a damp vegetation, in the same good way as the barnyardnotes in the Edp. A hint of the figgy note persist duting the whole dry down of the Extrait and contributes to a seaish impression and the overall impression is that the Extrait has some similarities with Hermès Epice Marine even if less spicy.

Picture: Santal du Pacifique Extrait
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Santal du Pacifique is a versatile, casual elegant and comforting fragrace which could be worn year around. It's unisex even if the Edp probably will attract men more as it's less flowery and more woody. The Edp has medium sillage and the Extrait is close. Longevity for the Edp is over 12h and the Extrait almost for a day.
A clean and pared down contemporary sandalwood which smells natural and not of perfumery.

Rating: 5

Notes: Sandalwood, floral notes

Burberry - My Burberry Black

Picture: My Burberry Black
Photo: PR Burberry (c)

In mainstream, during the years, I have discovered that I have a soft spot for fragrances from Burberry, both Burberry Body and My Burberry caught my interest and Burberry London for Men is already classic in my book. When a nice colleauge supported me with a sample of the new My Burberry Black I was intrigued at once, wearing the fragrance two days in a row which is unusual when it comes to me. Just as My Burberry, My Burberry Black is created by Francis Kurkdjian.

My Burberry Black starts almost repellent with a thick, flowery, fruity accord, a sort of a syrupy version of a nightblooming slight animalic jasmine. The fragrance then lightens, the thickness disappears but some of the syrupy texture remains and in this stage My Burberry Black reminds me of Chanel Allure Edp. Then a peachy, candided, ambery rose accord appears, balanced by a dark, clean patchouli in the contemporary minimalistic style. There is something in the feeling/texture of sweet candided flowers which reminds me of By Kilian Voulez-vous coucher avec Moi? not the similar smell but the style and feeling even if the Kilian is more polite and discrete. The Burberry in comparison, is big, almost in your face, as contemporary version of a 1980s fragrance, for example Lancome Trèsor, a fragrance which My Burberry Black has similarities to when it comes to the ambery treatment of the rose.

Wearing My Burberry Black is like walking home late through the city a dark, rainy and cold night in the autumn. A wet asphalt note mingled by exhaust fumes from the cars is opposing the gourmand candided sweet flowers and reduces the sweetness and creates an intriguing backdrop to the fragrance. The asphalt/fume accord is also present in the daytime urban floral My Burberry but in My Burberry black it's heavier, darker and moistier.

Picture: My Burberry Black
Photo: PR Burberry (c)

My Burberry Black is the perfect fragrance for evenings but also for daytime when it's grey, cold and rainy outside. It's very feminine, strong (be careful to not overdose) the sillage is big and longevity on skin excellent, over 24h. An intresting and well made representative of contemporary mainstrem with retro (1980s) vibes.

Rating: 5

Notes: Jasmine, candided roses, peach, amber, patchouli

Chanel No 5 and its different faces

The most famous fragrance classic, Ernest Beaux's Chanel No 5 is the model for aldehydic perfumes. Since its introduction in perfume concentration 1921 No 5 has appeared in different shapes and formulas. A few weeks ago I worn some of its variations:

Picture: Chanel No 5 EDT
Photo: Chanel (c)

Chanel No 5 EDT: The Edt version of the original perfume was interpreted by Henri Robert in 1952. Before a cologneversion created by Ernest Beaux was launched in the 1930s. The Edt is an austere, balanced, sort of putty-soapy aldehydic fragrance, cold and refined as marble, perfect for formal occasions. A demanding and challenging fragrance, the appearance shifts slightly between wearings, but its overall "stiff upper lip" personality remains the same. A confident personality but as often in such cases, there is some uncertainty about the self-esteem.

Picture: Chanel No 5 EDP
Photo: Chanel (c)

Chanel No 5 EDP: The Edp version was created by  former Chanel inside perfumer Jacques Polge in 1986. Starts with the recognizable No 5 aldehydic accord, soon deepened with a smooth, deep note of sandalwood. Beside the refined sandalwood, jasmine, rose and peach are the protagonists. Chanel No 5 Edp as a whole is the one that differs most from the other versions tested, to me its a wellbehaved, restrained, sort of urban variation of the colorful, vivid sandalwood jasmine Guerlain Samsara. Strangly I also find similarities with a later composition, Miller Harris Noix Tubereuse. The perfect No 5 for autumn and winter.

Picture: Chanel Eau Premiére
(old bottle and the tested version)
Photo: Chanel (c)

Chanel No 5 Eau Premiére: Eau Première was created 2007 by Jacques Polge as a modern take on No 5 Edt. In 2015 Eau Premiére was reformulated and also changed its presentaion to the Chanel squarebottle. I'm testing the original formula in the rectangual bottle. No 5 Edt is clearly recognizable in Eau Premiére, the characteristic aldehydic accord is similar, the fragrance as a whole feels more uncomplicated, warmer and gentler probably because of the emphasize of the neroli, ylang ylang and vanilla notes. It's apperance, like sunny aldehydes, is creating an informal atmosphere. Eau Premiére's personality is well behaved, kind, with a great dose of self-esteem.

Picture: Chanel No 5 L'Eau
Photo: Chanel (c)

Chanel No 5 L'Eau: No 5 L'Eau created by inhouse perfumer Olivier Polge, is Chanels move to convince the young generation to like No 5. Airy, watery, with a lighter and higher interpretation of the classical No 5 aldehyde accord, the fruity (lemon, orange, mandarine) and floral (jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang) notes are bright and clean (not detergent clean) and not embedded in the powdery-putty "just blown out candle" aldehydic notes of No 5 Edt and to a lesser extent No 5 Eau Première. Uplifting, and carefree, versatile to wear, a sort of casual elegance, perfect for any daytime occasion. As this is not a sweet, fruity, floral I doubt this will be a sucess in the yougest group of perfume consumers. No 5 L'Eau will attract those with a discerned taste in any agegroup. In my book this version is already a classic.

My favorite: With no doubt Chanel No 5 L'Eau, together with Galop d'Hermès the best release in 2016 (from the very small fraction I have tested). Followed by No 5 Edt because of its more intriguing dry down compared to Eau Première, which on the other hand I like better as a whole, considered its personality and friendlier apperance.  Last but not least Chanel No 5 Edp which is an elegant perfume but in another style, more dated and not as much No 5 as the other versions.

5 Top fragrances for fall

Picture: Maple leaves
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Autumn is late this year but finally it has arrived with its glowing colors, fresh chilly air and damp/moisty scents. Below some fragrances I like/like to wear this autumn, whether they are autumnal or not:

Bois Blond (Parfumerie Generale): Now when my sample is drained after years of occasionally wearing, I suddenly realized how much I will miss this dry, hayish, woody beauty. It's not the easiest fragrance to come close to and probably too masculine for me....Anyway a bottle is on its way.

Galop d'Hermès (Hermès): No toplist without a Hermès, their fragrances are versatile and suits me perfect for everyday wearing. Galop exceed my expectations with its juicy, rosy, soft leather with a slight sort of clean, animalic touch. It's now my favorite Hermès together with my all time feminine favorite from the house: Amazone.

No 5 L'Eau (Chanel): I have to confess I didn't want to like this as L'Eau is a far longer step away from the distinct super aldehydic original No 5 than No 5 Eau Première. Even if I tried to resist when tested in store, this flowing light flowery beauty with many the notes from No 5 but in different proportions and with a lighter base is a new classic.

Baume du Doge (Eau d'Italie): It's such a well balanced myrrh dominated fragence. Infused with orange, resins  and spices, BdG warns during grey and rainy days. To be worn with a cashmere sweater/shawl.

Baptême du Feu (Serge Lutens): A bit weired but intrguing fragances with light gourmand, citric, incense and smoky notes. The incense in style with the clean note in L'Orpheline, the citric notes cold as metal, the gourmand licour and spice, the smoke from gunpowder and campfires. Intriguing during it's whole dry down.

5 Early summerfragrances 2016

Picture: Ulriksdal Palace, one of the Royal Castles,
a morning in early May 2016
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Today it's Swedens nationalday! Early June with it's fresh, fragile flowers and greenery is, just as May, the most beautiful time of the year in this northen part of the globe. Flowery and light, sparkling fragrances are comforting and easy to wear. Below five reaible favourites:

Fleurissimo (Creed): This post continues in a royal setting: The wonderful green bouquet with tubereuse, violet, iris over a light ambergrisbase, was according to the storytelling from Creed, the fragrance made for and worn by Grace Kelly on her wedding with Prince Rainer of Monaco. My skin amplifies the violet/iris and the tubereuse here performs as a supporter, not the star of the show as in most fragrances with tubereuse as one of the main notes. Surprisingly there is a pleasant bananalike note contrasting and smoothing the blend, the nuance shows the tropical side of the tubereuse which is present in warm and lush tubereuse fragrances as in Le Galion Tuberéuse

Rose Essentielle Edp (Bvlgari): A sparkling blend of violet and rose in (to my nose) almost equal propotions. The violet is dominating on my skin most wearings, but sometimes the rose comes through more. Sweet, with a texture like hard candy but in the same time sort of fresh. The base is musky, slight earthy. After more then ten years on the market, Rose Essentielle is still an intriguing and very wearable fragrance.

Photo: Parfumista (c)

Jour d'Hermès Gardenia (Hermès): A tart, clean, minimalistic gardenia without the moist, earty smell of mushroom as in the heavier examples in the genre. Elegant, inoffensive and very easy to wear in most daytime ocasions. Not as grassy as the original Jour d'Hermès Edt .

Magnolia Romana (Eau d'Italie): Sharp green with almost rubbery, juicy white and yellow flowers. Sounds strange but smells so good. This is a fragrance for sunny and windy days, as there is sort of a natural flow in Magnolia Romana. An intriguing, contemporary floral.

Cristalle Edt (Chanel): A day in Cristalle is like a day in a cloud of sparkling Champagne, even if a regular workday. Retro bergamot-citrus fresh but at the same time with a distictive green, mossy body with hints of bulbfowers. A timeless creation, allways right to wear, true casual chic.

Anatole Lebreton - Bois Lumière

Picture: Bois Lumière

Photo: PR Anatole Lebreton (c)

Bois Lumière is the third fragrance in the Lebreton line starts very honeyed, sweet and rough animalic, in an almost an unpleasant accord. But as almost always with strange beginnings of a fragrance, the rest is so much better.  Even if still dominating, the honeyed sweetness is toned down in the rest of the dry down, balanced with warm woody/resin notes, immortelle, hay and orange. A warm, glowing, sparkling and cosy fragrance, very special and comforting for grey days. In the base there is also a musky feeling wish sweeps through the overall warm impression as a refreshing, chilly, gust. A friend of mine finds that there is something in Bois Lumière that oddly enough is resembling accords of a fragrance in a quite different style, Chanel Cristalle Edt but with a thicker and denser texture.

Honey dominated perfumes are not common and the one I think of when wearing Bois Lumière is (of course) Serge Lutens Miel de Bois which I precieve as a more elegant alternative. Bois Lumiere is rougher and sort of rual in appearance, the bewitched forest shows another dimension. Bois Lumière is a fragrance which attracts compliments.

Bois Lumière is the perfect autumn, winter and early springfragrance. The sillage is medium and longevity outstanding, 24h. It's neutral unisex.

Rating: 5

Notes: Juniper, clary sage, mandarin orange, fir balsam, honey, rose, carnation, immortelle, beeswax, cedar, benzoin

Easter fragrances 2016

Picture: Imperial Coronation Egg (Fabergé),
photographed at an exhibition in Rome
Photo: Miguel Hermoso Cuesta (cc)
Wikimedia Commons some rights reserved

This year I'll skip to find something to the usual Easter fragrance categories (gourmand-sweet, churchy-incense, green-crispy- leafy-bulbflowery) from which I pick fragrances suitable for Easter. Instead I'll pay attention to some fragrances which pleases me extra right now.

Heliotrope Blanc (Oriza L.Legrand): Ok this one suits perfectly in my traditional gourmand sweet category. Fluffy, alamonds, powder and vanilla, this is cosiness and comfort at it's best. The smell recalls  the sweetest of Easterbunnis.

Black Opium Edp (Yves Saint Laurent): I know I'm taken the risk to be written of as a serious perfumista by admitting that I feel very comfortable in Black Opium and I think it smells quite good. And so does also Mr Parfumista "This one smells better on you than many of the niche fregrances you're testing". Another one in the sweet territory.

Rosarium (Angela Ciampagna): A calming and contemplating, smooth rose incense, like taking a break sitting down in a small italian medival rual chapel a warm summerday.

Shermine (Huiteme Art): This furry iris/lavender with its very special almost chalky citrus note attracts compliments from those around. Perfect for the early wintery Easter of this year.

Marions Nous (Oriza L.Legrand): Recently I've been in an Oriza circle, I just can't get enough of the fragrances from this house. Marions Nous is a successful intepreation of an 1920s aldehyde fragrance. Sparkling, almost refreshing and in the same time with animalic notes lurking from it's depts. A fragrance which becomes better with each wearing.

Allure Sensuelle Edp (Chanel): A incrediable comforting fragrance in the Coco Mademoiselle - Coco Noir style but more fruity and with less patchouli  Smoother and rounded compared to the former two, a forgotten gem in the Chanelline.

Ylang-Ylang Nosy Be Extrait (Perris Monte Carlo): Last but not least the beautiful, intense, glowing, sweet, flowery, vanillic interpretation of one of the most faithful flowery teammates of "parfums de femme" the ylang-ylang.

Happy Easter!

Oriza L.Legrand - Cuir de l'Aigle Russe

Picture: Cuir de l'Aigle Russe
Photo: PR Oriza L.Legrand

Following my Oriza theme last week on twitter, here comes my review of their latest one.
Cuir de l'Aigle Russe is the latest creation of the great house of vintagestyled perfumes - Oriza L.Legrand.
Cuir de l'Aigle Russe has a note list longer than the pedrigree of the Tsars, and that combined with leather and the fact there is finally a new Oriza, it's over a year since the latest realeases, sets the hopes high.

Cuir de l'Aigle Russe (CdlAR) starts with a beautiful with soft powdery flowery accord in the comforting vintage, Oriza-style. It is high in the octaves on the notescale and it smells almost angelic. Soon a equally beautiful "blond"leathernote arrives, it is like leather in a very fine pair of gloves, very clear in smell and texture, there are no soft suedenotes. After a while the leather and flowery elements step backwards and a beautiful (every new note/accord arriving presents it self as very beautiful in this blend) bergamot/laveder combo appears taken the lead for a while, then the leather take some steps forward again. Also the balsamic, woody and musky notes later on seems very well.behaved, smooth, no harsh edges and again - beautiful. Some powdery notes in the Oriza tradition is present in almost the whole dry down in a very unobtrusive manner. The clear leathernote is also present in a subtle but clearly detectable way. The notes are so well blended and the accords are swirling around in a behaved but in the same time, intriguing way.

CdlAR is a classical bergamot-leather-lavender fragrance interpreted in a subtle and transparent way, it never becomes dense, cloying or "old fashion" smelling. It's like a very successful contemporary version, but still vintage in style, of this classic genre. The fragrance is classy, discrete and oozes of confidence, a perfect fragrance for negoations and other situations when the wearer needs to an authoritarian and in the same time comfortable, supporting and not disturbing perfume.

CdlAR belongs to a traditional masculine perfume category but in this version, it's lending slightly more to the feminine side. It's wearable year around, for daytime both for work and non-sporting casual. Sillage is medium and longevity for a day.

Those who like polished light leathers with flowery additions as Chanel Cuir de Russe Edt, Cuir de Lancome and Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fetiche will certainly also like CdlAR.

Rating: 5

Notes: Coriander, lavender, wormwood, bergamot, juniper, styrax, geranium, rose, immortelle, cardamom, styrax, patchouli leaf, labdanum, incense, musk, tonka bean, sandalwood, amber, benzoin, vetiver

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Perris Monte Carlo - Essence de Patchouli

Picture: Moon over the Mediterranean sea  (Greece)
Photo: Mr Parfumista

Essence de Patchouli is the first patchouli fragrance in the Perris Monte Carlo line. Essence de Patchouli is one of the five first fragrances which were released in 2012, the other four starters are Bois d'Oud (reviewed a few weeks ago), Oud Imperial, Ambre Gris and Musk Extrême. In 2014 a second patchouli fragrance was released, Patchouli Nosy Be which I have not smelled when writing this review but plan to test and review the coming winter. Update March 2016 - review of Patchouli Nosy Be.

Essence de Patchouli starts with a very dark, balck or dark purple if imagine a color, velvety patchouli which is silky in texture. There are also some offsetting almost "ugly" notes that could be associated with mosquito repellent but in a non sharp, again velvety texture. The repellent accord steps backward as Essence de Patchouli dries down but is present in the background to prevent the fragrance to be too polite. The patchouli in this fragrance is not of the ambery type nor the herbal, which are the two cathegories that constitutes 90% of all patchfrags. The patchouli of Essence de Patchouli is instead as the patchouli leaves have been pickled in a musky, dark flowery a tad sweet souse. As Essence de Patchouli dries further down, the dark iris/rose combo becomes more apparent even if they are intergrated to such extent that they are hard to separate from each other. The sliky, light powdery patchouli impression prevail and the powdery note reminds me slightly of the cocapowdernote of Mon Patchouly from Ramon Monegal which is also a patchouli fragrance which is not ambery nor herbal but almost gourmand, which Essence de Patchouli is not. As with some other Perris Fragrances, Essence de Patchouli is grounded in a beautiful, either not chemical nor animalic smelling musk. The musk creates an intense, long-lived fragrance and it pronounces and highlights the other ingredients. Woody notes warmed up with a light touch of resin deepens the fragrance.

Essence de Patchouli mediates the picture and feeling of dining outside on a terrace by the sea a warm mediterranean summereveing with the dark velvettextured sky dark lighted by the silver full moon.
In darkness, texture, mood and apperance Essence de Patchouli reminds me of a forgotten gem which is based on a completely different note (incense) Juozas Statkevicius/Josef Statkus from the designer of the same name.

Picture: Essence de Patchouli
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Essence de Patchouli is appropriate to wear in most seasons, in summer one has to be extra careful when applying, a little goes ong and too much could be totally overwhelming especially when warm weather outside. To me Essence de Patchouli is a feminine creation even if it definitly could be worn by brave men. The silage is moderate to big and longevity for 24h.

Essence de Patchouli is another winner from Perris Monte Carlo, it's not happen often that the releases from house have a hit rate like this house when it comes to fragrances that I think is memorable and longing to wear even after the tests for the review is over.

Those who like Sergel Lutens Borneo 1834, Chanel Coromandel  and Prada Intense will probably also appreciate Essence de Patchouli even if the former three are more gourmand and the latter more floral in style.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, geranium, iris, cedar, guaiac wood, patchouli, musk, labdanum, coumarin

Franck Boclet - Patchouli

Picture: Empress Josephine in a
patchouliscented kashmere shawldress
Painting by painting by Antoine-Jean Gros (1809)
Picture from pintertest, referred to 1000fragrances.bolgspot.com 

Patchouli is a fragrance from the perfumline of the fashionhouse Franck Boclet. Patchouli is created by perfumer Melaine Leroux.

Patchouli starts with an old book musty patchuli but the old book note is not as strong or sharp as in Les Nereides Patchouli Antique. Soon the old book impression lightens up and a dark chocolate and spices are added, with the moisty impression prevails. After a while the chocolate and spices transforms to a beautiful, clean not by any means muddled tobbacco note. Tobbacco is not mentioned among the notes but somehow the fresh tobbacco smell is present. This clean almost sparkling and natural smelling tobbacco is the leading part for quite a while, the tobbacco reminds me of the beautiful Parfums de Nicolaï Cuir Cuba Intense. Then the patch, this time cleaner and earthier, once again takes the centerplace. The pathouli is now paired with a very pleasant, smooth, moisty, creamy, slight musky note, which rounds the edges off. As Patchouli dries further down, the spicy accord appears again as also the tobbacco glimpses now and then. The basenotes are woody with ambery, vanillic touches, the patchouli still present but appears lighter and cleaner almost as it now has transformed for a mission where it has to offset the other sweeter and heavier basenotes.

Picture: Franck Boclet Patchouli
Photo: PR Franck Boclet (c)

Having a soft spot for patchoulifragrances, Franck Boclet Patchouli IMO is a very good and multifaceted representant of the genre. As much is going on, with contrasting elements interacting in different ways during the different phases of the dry down, Patchouli is particulary intriguing when taken in consideration that it's presented as a solinote perfume (which it of course is not).

Patchouli is a warm, comforting and relaxing patchouli, perfect for autumn and winter. It's projects close to medium depending on dosage. It's unisex in character and could be worn for work or casual. Very good longevity, it lasts unfragmented for more than a day.

Those who likes patchouli fragrances as Chanel Coromandel, Oriza L. Legrand Horizon and Ramon Monegal Mon Patchouly will probably like Franck Boclet Patchouli too.

Rating: 5

Notes: Patchouli, cedar- and sandalwood, amber, benzoin, tonka been, vanilla, musk

Thanks to Fragrance and Art for the sample to test

Puredistance - WHITE

Picture: Puredistance WHITE
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

The idea of the new perfume WHITE  from the house of Puredistance is to create at perfume so Beautiful and positive that it gives the wearer an instant flow of happiness.  IMO Perfumer Antoine Lie and house founder/creative director Jan Ewoud Vos  have indeed succeeded in their mission to fullfill this idea. The process to create WHITE took over one year and probably this is a big part of the sucess, Puredistance never stresses new perfumes into the market, the creators take the time needed. Therefore the Puredistance line is one of the most solid lines in the market, there are no misses (so far) just solid, sophisticated, very high quality perfumes and I'm very fond of them all, can't choose a favorite as each fragrance suits different moods, styling and occassion. See my reviews of Black, Opardu, I, M and Antonia.

WHITE starts bright, transaprent and happy. My instant thought is the image of a daisy, a dried specimen of that little sunny flower was also included with the sample from Puredistance, a very good illustration to this scent. As WHITE dries down, flawless like an exquisite brilliant it becames thicker but never heavy in its texture. An excellent creamy smoothness appears and stays during the rest of the drydown, making WHITE very comforting to wear despite its elegant aura. WHITE is 
seamless blended and it's hard to pick up where on note start dominating and another take a step backwards. The notes are interacting, shaping a flowery veil anchored in a smooth top notch sandalwood, whitout any harsh or sharp edges, it's like the sandalwood is a part of the bouquet. There is a tonality of musk  wafting from the base of WHITE, a white, non-dirty musk which has no traces of  chemical,laundry. Instead it's deepens the accords and gives  bodies to the flowers. The musk also, together with the pleasant sweetness of tonka been and a minimalist patchouli, creates that special tart note which I  appreciate so much in complex floral compositions, in WHITE without the powdery aspect which the tart note also could be combined with. On my skin the tart musky accord especially highlighing the airy rose, pale yellow or pale pink if imagining a color, supported by some dry, slight fizzy, light earthy orris elements but without the orris carrotnote.



Picture: Picture: Puredistance full Collection
spring 2015
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

WHITE is a sophisticated fragrance, surprisingly easy to wear taken its elegance and the expensive, high quality ingredients in to account. It would the perfect pefume for the bride of the coming swedish royal wedding in June, Sofia read this :-). WHITE is comforting and conveys a  happy mood and sunshine. Even if in style a spring/summer perfume WHITE has enough dept and genuine texture for pleasant  wearing year around. It's as timeless and versatile as for example Chanel No 22. The longevity is very good, 12h+ and a few small spritses from the samples is enough. WHITE is in perfume (extrait) strenght and therefore quite close to the wearer, even if distinct traces are recognizable for people around.

WHITE is so wellcrafted that it makes me considering selling off my less well crafted florals. Even if I like them as such, when compard to a fragrance as WHITE the chemical, harsh and laundry notes of especially some mainstream perfumes becomes quite obvious.

WHITE is for everyone who likes a delicate, flower boquet and will please those who like the  style of fragrances as for example Grossmith Amelia and  Floral Veil or the new Teo Cabanel Lace Garden.

Maybe a bit boring but the fact is that I already know WHITE will be one of my most liked pefumes of 2015. And it definitly has the potential to be THE number one of 2015. Beware Chanel Misia.

Rating: 5

Notes: May rose, tonka absolute, orris root, sandalwood, bergamot, musk, vetiver, patchouli.

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Mon Numero 10

Picture:  Cover of the pulp magazine Oriental Stories
(Spring 1932, vol. 2, no. 2)  featuring Scented Gardens by Dorothy Quick.Cover art by Margaret Brundage, Wikimedia commons

Mon Numero 10 is created by  the highly productive perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour for the well known, pioneer, nichehouse L'Artisan Parfumeur.

Mon Numero 10 starts with a very special accord which smell almost like stewed fruits in  liqueur. Soon a clean airy incenseote appears, similar to the clean incense in Andy Tauers Incense Extreme. The incense is followed by a very well mixed note of cedar which smells like smooth pencil shavings, the note of pencil shavings I sometimes percieve as too sharp. Leather is another note which slowly evolve and becoming clearer in the middle of Mon Numero 10 and together with the other notes the fragrance adopts an almost furry texture. From here on, Mon Numero 10 smells similar to the iconic Fendi  Femme (original) but thinner and sweeter, like a contemporary, slight gourmand adaption to the classical Fendi theme. I could also detect Chanel Coco. This pleasant phase goes on until the later stages where suddenly the sweet, cinnaber infused, glüwein accord found in Parfumerie Generale Un Crime Exotique appears.

Picture: L'Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numero 10
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur

Mon Numero 10 is a perfect oriental for fall and winter, comforting and with  interesting twists as described above. The longevity is good, for a day and with traces left the following morning, it's especially these remaining notes which are very close to Un Crime Exotique. As Mon Numero 10 appears as an intresting mix of other attractive perfumes it somehow feels like Duchaufour was not especially inspired when he composed this blend, it's like this fragrance was created by routine. Despite this Mon Numero 10 is a good, multifacetted and wearable oriental. If I had not been familiar with the other perfumes which I detect in this fragrance and also liked each of them better than the "merged" fragrance, I would have considered more than a sample of Mon Numero 10.

Rating: 4 (November 2014)

Rating: 5 (Re-rated in June 2015 as I liked No 10 even more when tested after the review. It turned to be a fragrance which I couldn't get out of my mind = FBW)

Notes: Fennel, bergamot, aldehydes, pink pepper, cardamon, cinnamon, cabreuva, leather, incense, rose, geranium, jasmine, cedar, musk, vanilla, benzoin, hyrax, heliotrophe, tonka been, styrax, ambregris

Thanks to Fragrance & Art  for the sample

Parfum d'Empire - Cuir Ottoman (new & old version)

Picture: Sultan Selim III holding an audience in
front of the Gate of Felicity.
 Oil on canvas, Topkapı Sarayı Müzesi, Istanbul,
Wikipedia commons

Cuir Ottoman is created by ISIPCA perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato for his own perfumehouse, Parfum d'Empire. Parfum d'Empire is a house that produces first class perfumes to decent prices (to be niche) also after the re-packing, and it also seems to, slight revison of the earlier fragrances. When it comes to Cuir Ottoman, revision is definitly the case at least to my nose when comparing the first version launched in 2006 with the new one.

Picture: Cuir Ottoman (old)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Cuir Ottoman starts leathery-floral, the newer one airier and with more flowers than the older one. After a while the old one becomes a bit smokey, supported by a rubbery note, slight similar to the rubber in Bulgari Black. The rubbernote is intricate and surpringly shifts between the rubber and a note similar to something to a flowery bubblegumnote. When the new version developes, the higher octaves of the scentscale and the more flowery impression remains. Instead of the rubbery note in the old version, I smell a note close to gunpowder balancing the flowerinfused leather. The new version is a tad more feminin in style, more elegant than the more masculine tougher and rougher old version, somewhat like the elegant Chanel Cuir de Russie compared to the masculine Knize Ten even if not smelling the same. As Cuir Ottoman dries down in the still leathery basenotes, I find new and old version becoming more alike than in the earlier stages, even if the old version is a tad more spicy and deeper.

Cuir Ottoman is a very good leather fragrance in the basic classic style that every fragrance wardrobe needs. Not demanding or or particularly innovative but a well made and well balanced leather in a timeless style. When writing this review, a grey autumn Sunday, I slightly prefer the old version, which with its a bit darker facetts is suitable for autumn and winter. But if the testing was performed in spring/summer I maybe would prefer the new version.

Picture: Cuir Ottoman (new)
Photo: PR Parfume d'Empire (c)

Cuir Ottoman is appropriate for most occasions (apart from working out) and seasons (though not in the hottest summer). Longevity is good, for more than a day, and sillage is somewhere between close to medium. To conclude, Cuir Ottoman is definitely a leather to consider when adding a classic "Cuir" to ones wardrobe.

Rating. 5

Notes: Iris, jasmine, leather, vanilla, tonka bean, incense

Thanks to Fragrance & Art  for a sample of the new version

Blog Anniversary - 8 years today

Today it's eight years since my first entry (in swedish) on old "Parfumistans dagbok" = "The diary of Parfumista". It was about my long time passion for perfume, my first perfumememories of my mothers signaturefragance Dior Diorissimo etc. Looking back, if I had put all the effort that I put in blogging and the money spend in perfume in managening a stock portfolio instead, I would be halfway to be financially independent by now :-). On the other hand, I  probably would have smell less intricate.

Perfumes I crave and wear at the moment:

Guerlain L'Heure Bleue Edt & Edp (vintage): Both magnificent, Edt airier, drier and with an almost herbal touch, Edp dark and like velvet in texture, sweeter and with more flowery notes.

YSL Opium Edt (current): I love also the current formula, deep, spicy, dark woody. Perfect for fall and winter and with a excellent longevity.

Montale Aoud Red Flowers Edp: A non-oudy oud from Montales oud-line. Lipstick texture, tagets with traces of tobbacco. Sort of vintage feeling.

Farmacia SS Annunziata Gelsorosa Edp: The best jasmine (supported by orangeblossom and tubereuse) I have tested so far. Intensive and musky-animalic.

Chanel Cuir de Russie Edt: Powdery, aldehydic, leather, with a lipstick texture. Like the smell from inside an elegant purse.

Pictures above: PR Guerlain, Yves Saint Laurent, Montale, Farmacia SS Annunziata, Chanel (c)

PS: Out of nostalgia I publish this post at 14:02 PM exactly the same moment as the first entry eight years ago.

Aedes de Venustas - Oeillet Bengale

Picture: Oeillet Bengale
Photo: PR Aedes de Venustas (c)

The latest release from New York based perfumeshop Aedes de Venustas, Oeillet de Bengale is created by perfumer Rodrigues Flores-Roux, a pefumer who created hidden mainstream gems as Donna Karan Gold  (swe) and also hyped niche fragrances as for example for Arquiste.

Oeillet Bengale starts with a true and soft carnation note followed by a light spicy incense focused note. Soon a beautiful rose appears, the rose is tender and natural smelling. As Oeillet Bengale dries further down, the rose and spices blends in a mix that creates an impression of a soft spicy carnation. Further in the development, the rose steps forward and appears in a different form, now in the form of a retro diva, the rose smells balsamic and a bit oldfashioned, deep and dark but without powdery and soapy nuances and reminds me of the rose-saffron accord in Odori Zafferano but in a smoother version. In the basenotes the balsamic, ambery impression deepens and playing beautifully with the spicy, rose-carnation. Taken as a whole, Oeillet Bengale is linear in style but playing in a higher, flowery register in its first part and on the deeper, darker part of the scale in the second part.

Oeillet Bengale is subtle with an obvious, chic-simple elegance, I can imagine the wearer of Oeillet Bengale in a basic uniform consisting of a black chasmere jumper/cardigan, a black light woolen penskirt, contrasted with different decorative silkscarves or pashminas. In its olfactory character, Oeillet Bengale reminds me of a non powdery Chanel 1932 or a Grossmith like Amelia. When it comes to carnations, the current (or just disontinued) Caron Bellodgia Edt is too watered down and not as balsamic in style, Bellodgia Edt in
the older version is in the traditional eugenol carnation style. Compared to another great carnation release from this year, Oriza L. Legrand Royal Oeillet reviwed earlier this week, Oeillet Bengale is a more of a non descript carnation, the fragrance is in fact a spicy rose underscored by balsamic notes which creates the impression of carnation, whereas Royal Carnation is a very true, classical carnation but in a contemporary interpretation. I have also heard from a reaible source that Oeillet Bengale have many similarities with vintage Yves Saint Laurent Opium Extrait, havn't smell the vintage extrait myself.

Oeillet Bengale is soft, elegant and in the same time comforting. It's sillage is close
but fully detectable for those nearby. Appropriate both for casual and the office especially for the colder months. The stayingpower is good, for over a day. And the bottle, like the other Aedas falcons, just marvellous.

Rating: 5

Notes: Turmeric, cinnamon, black pepper, cardamon, clove, saffron, rose, white pepper, strawberry, floral notes, vanilla, tolu balsam, benzoin, labdanum

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Serge Lutens - L'orpheline

Picture: L'orpheline
Photo: PR Serge Lutens

L'orpheline is the latest fragrance from Serge Lutens and it's a part of the square (spary) bottles line, sometimes also called the exportline. As the black label indicates, its a stronger concentration, and more expensive than the whitelabeled bottles. Perfumer is Christopher Sheldrake, the former inhouseperfumer of Serge Lutens, now also with Chanel. As with most of Lutens latest creations, there is a backstory to L'orpheline which has it's background in Lutens childhood, the relation to his mother and his analyze of his feelings of the time.

L'orpheline starts with an almost refreshing combination of aldehydes, a cold, woody,almost green incensenote similar to pine. After a while it becomes warmer and light woody, herbaceous and as the fragrance further dries down, a peppery twist of the incensenote similar to the one in Parfumerie Gènèrale L'Eau Guerrière, appears but only with a fraction of the strength of the latter. As the drydown goes furhter on, a comforting, slight soapy note appers, soften the incense without any sweetness. There is also traces of the chilly, fresh pinelike incensenote from the initial blast of L'orpheline, a note which is also present, but stronger, in Robert Piguet Oud and in Oriza L.Legrand Relique D'Amour. The dominating accord in the middle of the fragrance is this simple but beautiful combination of fresh incense and soapy aldehydes.

Reaching the base the special pleasant slight wet, powdery, putty and musky note appears which I like in creations as Chanel 1932 and several other good contemporary fragrances, here is the link to a special post about this basenote. In L'orpheline that special note is combined with incense and creates an alternately chilly and tepid impression. Overall, L'orpheline in its latest stage reminds me very much of Chanel 1932, without jasmine and with more incense. And probably is that not a coincidence taken Sheldrakes role in both houses into account.

L'orpheline is a subtle, lowkey skinscent with low silage. Longevity for a day but a bit weak in the latest stage. Office-appropriate but also casual mostly for intellectual leisures as visiting an art exhibition or a classic concert. L'orpheline is a fragrance for contemplating and situations that require some sort of tranquility. First it not seems very original as there are traces of other fragrances, but  when worn and properly evaluated, this is in my opinion a new way to treat incense, in a low key, comforting way. Anyway L'orpheline is intriguing (triggering the imagination) and pleasant to wear.

Update December 2014: Cold weather makes the best of L'orpheline, it's a awesome fragrance, easy to wear, intriguing, which means that you get compliments. One of the best releases of 2014.

Rating: 4 5 (December 2014)

Notes: Aldehydes, coumarin (fougere accord), woods, ambergris, patchouli, incense, chasmerean
(notelist from Perfumeshrine as Serge Lutens doesn't reveal the notes on the site)

Vero Profumo - Onda Voile d'Extrait

Picture: Onda Voile d'Extract
Photo: PR Vero Profumo (c) 

Onda Voile d'Extrait is swiss perfumer Vero Kerns of Vero Profumo alternative interpretation of the original Onda Extrait (released 2007). To me, the Voile d'Extrait is more similar to the Extrait then the Edp with its passionfruitnote which is the characteristics for the Edp versions of Onda, Rubj and Kiki.

In both Onda Extrait and Voile d'Extrait the vetivernote is dominating and in both fragrances in a different way than in most vetiverfragrances, especially the extrait is unusual. In both fragrances the vetiver is surrounded by spices, herbs, mossy and woody elements which creates the perfect image of the smell of early spring, when the snow has just melted and the sun is warming up the soil in the forestground. That was the situation when I tested Onda Voile d'Extrait and I took a walk around the small lake in the woodland nearby. Onda Voile d'Extrait matched perfectly as well as the drops of the Extrait that I worn on my left arm as reference. When comparing the two Ondas I think the Extrait is the more difficult of the two. The Extrait starts deeper, darker and almost animalic, dirty whereas the Voile d'Extrait is ligther and more sparkling, it has more of the fizzy gingernotes where Extrait has deeper and warmer spicy notes. The Extrait is more retro in style, with powdery, a bit dirty  notes and the vetiver is seamless blended with the other ingredients. The Voile d'Extrait is clearer, the vetiver is greener and more distinct and the composition is somehow fresher in appearance. I think the Voile d'Extrait will appear to a broder public than the Extrait which is more complicated and to generalize, more of a "perfumista fragrance". I like both versions but prefer the Extrait as it is more challenging during it's developement.

Onda Voile d'Extrait is suitable for casual daytime wear but it's also good for office. It's perfect for late winter and spring, the sillage is medium and longevity for 12h+.

Those who likes vetiver fragrances such as Chanel Sycomore and L'Artisan Parfumeur Coeur de Vetiver Sacré, sharp, dark, smoky greens as Hermès Eau de Gentiane Blanche and Eau d'Italie Sienne l'Hiver will probably also appreciate Onda Voile d'Extrait.

Rating: 4  (Onda Extrait still 5 just as when I tested 2009 and 2011)

Notes: Vetiver, ginger, nutmeg, coriander

Fragrance(s) of the week (11) - Mainstream week

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Sometimes I'm just fed up wearing and analyzing all these pretentious nichefragrances. This week I felt I had to relax during the weekdays by wearing straightforward mainstream fragrances. And of course, I couldn't stop analyze....:-)

Monday: My new favorite for spring Elie Saab Le Parfum L'Eau Couture reminds me of lily of the valley, some greenery over vanilla. Springlike crispy but in the same time warm.

Tuesday: Miss Dior Edp current version (former Miss Dior Cherie). Don't understand all the compliments about this contemporary chypre, floral, musky and light fruity. I think it's a good representative of the genre and a perfume with it's own characteristics, which are still recognizable after reforumlations, even if the strawberryflowers and the popcornnote seems to be replaced compared to the original 2005 Miss Dior Cherie release. Not many niche fragrances has a personality like this modern classic.

Wednesday: My liking for Boucheron Place Vendôme is growing. An elegant contemporary floral with contrasting notes reminiscent of airy tobaccoleaves in the basenotes. Would be perfect for spring in companion with an ivory colored, elegant, light, wollen suit, worn with a smooth silk top.

Thursday: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Edp is in the same contemporary chypre floral category (with the typical patchouli in the basenotes) as Miss Dior Edp but darker, more formal and grown up. Just as pleasant as Miss Dior to wear during a working day, but provides a more serious impression.

Friday: Nina Ricci  Nina L'Elixir is a candied version of the original Nina, sweeter with less of the uplifitng citrusy sparkle of its forerunner. Strangly, in the dry down, Nina L'Elixir suddenly starts to smell like a much sweeter, crystallized Frapin Speakeasy. Nothing wrong with this perfume but this was the let down during the week, Nina L'Elixir doesn't play in the same leauge as the other tested, or for that matter, the original Nina in in which I perceive the same comfort level as in the fragrances tested Monday-Thursday.

Now I have to plan my next "theme-week", a week in Guerlain could be something....

Téo Cabanel - Oha

Picture: December roses
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Oha from the venerable house of Téo Cabanel is an old school styled chypre. Oha is created by the house nose or Téo Cabanel, Jean-Francois Latty, a skilful perfumer when it comes to fragrances in the the high quality classic style of Téo Cabanel. I have tested a recent sample and an older one with juice from a bottle of the old design.

Oha starts grandly with a slight powdry and bitter bergamot with contrasting accords of different roses, I can image both pink and red roses. When Oha reaches its middlenotes the roses is still dominating but has deepened and has become darker and tarter. Jasmine and iris is supporting in a robust classic flowery accord with some cool spicyness from the cardamom. There is very little sweetness, if none in Oha, even the musky base is woody and dry powdery, the vanilla and tonka are barely detectable but I suspect these notes prevent Oha from being too austere. Even if lacking oakmoss which seems to have be replaced with musk and woods, Oha is old school chypre-ish in style, something that fails most modern fragrances in this genre.  Ohas lack of sweetness and robust chypre character makes it to an unusual fragrance.

Picture: Oha (in the current bottle)
Photo: Téo Cabanel (c)

Comparing the two samples of Oha, despite just  the older one is more classic, deeper, boozier and less musky powdery with slightly better longevity. The current sample is more musky powdery, a bit sweeter in the roses and reminds me especially in the opening of Narcisco Rodriguez for Her Edt. Oha is said to be an evening scent but I think it's also appropriate for formal daytime wear as it is close to skin. Longevity is good, ca 12h.

Those who like fragrances in the style of Sisley Soir de Lune, Estee Lauder Knowing, the original Agent Provocateur, Niki de Saint Phalle, but also a bit more spicy blends as Chanel Coco, will probably also appreciate Oha.

Rating: 3 +

Notes: Bergamot. tea, rose, jasmine, cardamon, iris, vanilla, tonka been, woods, musk