måndag 22 april 2019

Easter in Guerlain

Picture: Easter Egg, with no resemblance
to the fragrances worn….
Photo: Parfumista (c)
And here are my Guerlain choices for the second part of Easter 2019....
 
Easter Eve: Encens Mythique D'Orient - I know that EMD'O is a high quality and well blended perfume but it doesn't team up well with my skinchemistry, at least not when heavily overapplied, applied five tiny spritzes and even if I tried to wash it off, it lingered like a second skin. I'll try only one spritz to do it justice another day. Starts with an interesting accord of cedar, spices that creates that almost eletrical note or dust on warm a light bulb note that is present in Mona di Orios Carnation and Téo Cabanel Kasar. After that I lost contact with EMD'O, it becomes an unstructured muddle of spice, rose and woody notes. But I don't give up that easy, the notes are just my cup of tea and I'll conquer EMD'O sooner or later.
 
Easter Sunday: Apres l'Ondee Edt - A comforting and calming perfume experience compared with the suffocating experience on Easter Eve. Starts with a beautiful, clean, earthy, slight carrot-y irisaccord, after a while violet, anis and heliotrope joins and Apres l'Ondee smells just like the outdoor precursor to L'HB as it also is. Not as powdery and indoor as L'HB, elegant casual and almost fresh. A happy fragrance unlike L'HB.
 
Easter Monday: L'Heure Bleue Edt - As mentioned above, the more powdery, lipstick, deeper and darker variation along the iris-violet-anis-heliotrope theme which isalso  the core of Apres l'Ondee. In L'HB there is also neroli that combined with carnation and balsamic notes creates a more dramatic and sophisticated style than the cheerful Apres l'Ondee. L'HB is melancholy, beautiful and intriguing, one has to take time with this, it's not an easy fragrance. I tested the Edt version today to compare with Apres l'Ondee which also is in Edt. The Edt (vintage from 1989) has a great radiance and longevity, when it comes to Guerlain the Edt and Edp formulas are different variations of the fragence with some differences in notes/accords. It's not som much about strenght and longevity.
 
Wearing Guerlain for six days is not at all boaring, on the contrary, I'll explore the fragrances further.


lördag 20 april 2019

Easter in....

Picture: Spring, Easter and Scilla´s in the garden
Photo: Parfumista (c)

 
This year I was pondering of what the theme for my Easterposting should be. Earlier years the theme almost always has been appropriate fragrances for Easter in the (to my nose) for the occasion appropriate fragrancesgroups gourmand, incense and green. As late as this Wednesday I had no clue what theme to choose when suddenly it stood all clear derived from my SOTD that day Mitsouko Edt: Fragrances from the honorable house of Guerlain should be the Eastertheme.

Wednesday (almost Easter): Mitsouko Edt (semivintage from 2001): This is a light sort of carefree Mitosuko, almost easy to wear. The typical peachy, spicy accord is cleaner, brighter, higher on the fragrance notescale and not as multifaceted  as the Edp. The latter could  sometimes, especially with a spritz to much applied, be perceived as almost muddled. The basenotes of the Edt, at least in this version, is dominated from an uplifting and pleasant note of vetiver. I think this verion of Mitisi is truly unisex.

Maundy Thursday: Rose Nacree du Desert - Starts like a green, elegant rose with also  the greenery botteled. Than it evolves to a radiating still very elegant creamy, clean rosy chypre with vintage vibes, if it had a color it would be powdery light salomonpink. When wearing RNdD I come to think of another elegant contemporary chypre Sisley Soir de Lune even if that one is deeper, heavier and more of a evening fragrance, whereas RNdD is a daytime fragrance.

Good Friday: La Petite Robe Noir Couture - Yesterday was very pleasant like I was wrapped in a delicious dessert during the whole day. Not too sweet if moderatly applied, with  just a few spritzes the earthy base with patchouli and vetiver are more present. Excellent longevity, even now  I can smell the pleasant notes of  cherry liqueur and patchouli on my wrists. To me it really smells cherry even if the berry in the notelist is raspberry.
 
 I will continue with a post about the fragrances for the last three days of this Easter on Monday.

Happy Easter!
 

 

tisdag 16 april 2019

In memory of Notre-Dame....

Picture: Notre-Dame Paris
Photo: Tristan Nitot (cc) some rights reserved
Wikimedia commons
….as we know her.

This morning I wanted to honour the Grand Dame of Paris and therefore choose an appropriate fragrance to remember this fascinating spiritual and cultural heritage. The SOTD was obvious:
Opus 1144 from UNUM/Filippo Sorcinelli, a fragrance inspired from the gotic era which was started approximately 1144. The fragrance is inspired from the stone in the cathedrals and the grey skies of Normandy, a birthplace for the Gotic style and Culture.

Opus 1144 is a lovely oriental styled perfume, comforting and cherishing, a Shalimar wrapped in a fluffy, creamy lemony note. What I don't understand is; where is the connection to the gothic era and the chatedrals? When I'm wearing Opus 1144 I come to think of the art deco style of the 1920s. Instead I'm associate Rosa Nigra from the same brand to medieval style and  atmosphere. This is some of the allure with perfume, different people have different associations. Positive news in this disaster are that two of the dominating luxury conglomerates will donate huge amounts to rebuild Notre-Dame and as a consequence, indirectly, we as parfumistas are also contributing.