måndag 3 augusti 2015

Parfums MDCI - Cio Cio San

Picture: Poster for Madama Butterfly by Giacomo Puccini,
Author: Alberto Hohenstein (1854-1928), Wikimedia commons
Cio Cio San is the latest addition to the high quality Parfums MDCI line. Just as the intriguing Nuit de Andalouse from 2013, Cio Cio San is created by one of the brightest shining stars on the perfume heaven in the latest years: Cecile Zarokian. Cecile seems to have good hand (and nose) with oriental styled parfumes, she has created some of my favorites in the genre; Masque Tango, Laboratorio Olfattivo Kashnoir and Amouage Epic Woman.

Cio Cio San is also oriental styled but a floral oriental with intriguing, supporting fruity notes which are lightened up with skillfull handled teanotes which are note sharp or chemical at all. Cio Cio San starts sparkling with pink, lush floral notes, accentuated with fruits, with litchi as the leading star. I can't say that I can distinguish the cherry blossoms but I suppose they are involved in the sparkling, pink flowery opening.
From the very beginning Cio Cio San reminds me of a sort of reversed and less sweet Graine de Joie from Eau d'Italie. Where the fruits are the protagonists, supported by flowers in Graine de Joie, the flowers takes the central position in Cio Cio San even if distinctly supported by the fruits. Soon also deeper nuances appears in Cio Cio San which shows a wider spectrum of accords than in Graine de Joie. After a whlie a dark, rubbery note, similar to the rubber note of rose oil appears and as rose isn't mentioned I guess it comes from the peony. There is also a light glimpse of a fresh almost petrollike note in this stage. Soon also a dark woody note appears, it's similar to a light touch of oud (also not mentioned among the notes) and there is also something almost boozy lurking in the woody musky depths of Cio Cio San. Even in the deeper and darker dimensions of the fragrance, the loveliness of the flowers and fruits are clearly present. The teanote is perfectly intergrated and creates an airy and almost light impression also in the basenotes. There is also a pleasant sort of  tingling (maybe the ginger) tartness present during most of the dry down. The notes of Cio Cio San doesn't smell chemical which could be a problem in some fruity-florals and tea fragrances, respectively.

Picture: The "bust bottle" of Cio Cio San, there
is also a version with a plain cap.
Photo: PR Parfums MDCI (c) 
Just as Cio Cio San herself aka Madame Butterfly, the fragrance Cio Cio San is a fragrance with at least two faces: The happy one just as in the very beginning of the opera, then the melancolic and sad expression just as the way to, and the end of, this tragic drama. Another beautiful flower fragrance which honors Madame Butterfly is Amouage Honour Woman (swe) which is a creamy, well blended, but less original white floral which plays in a less dramatic scale and in higher octaves than Cio Cio San.

Cio Cio San is a intriguing fragrance where different ascpects/facetts are highlighted in different wearings depending for example from how much of the scent is applicated. I'm looking forward to test Cio Cio San also in cold weather as I suspect it will wears nice then too. For summer it's great. Cio Cio San is appropriate for many occasions, both for work and casual, but not for sports, it's too complex for that.
Sillage is somewhere between close to medium, longevity for at least a day with traces on skin the morning after.

Those who like good quality fruity florals as Neela Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling, By Kilian Playing With The Devil and Robert Piguet Jeunesse I suspect will also appreciate Cio Cio San.

Rating: 5

Notes: Yuzu, lemon, ginger, grapefruit, cherry blossom, peony, litchi, tea, guaiac wood, cedar, mus

måndag 27 juli 2015

1000 Jubilée

Picture: Avaible on the net, source in this case
Australian Perfume Junkies
Today I noticed that I just posted my 1000nd entry (the Rose Privee one) on this site, the entries from the almost three years on the fashionmagazine "Damernas Värld" (The Ladies World) are than not included. Many thanks to the readers over the years ! I assume the mix of readers are quite different now than in the earlier years. I think there are more people from the "perfumenerd category" reading today (as I'm Writing in english and reach out worldwide) and less from the broder "interested in beauty and fashion category" from the early years when written in swedish. But I could have completely wrong. Many thanks also to you who provides me with the samplevials of perfume which are the  basic commodites to run this place.

The speed was faster in earlier days with shorter entries which is rather good.per se. The more I get into perfume, the more impressions and connections to other earlier tested fragrances  I find out for the new ones I try. And the result is that each post get more extensive and there is less entries posted as a total. Also  the time that I can spare for this hobby has unfortunately decreased. In the "blog-library" I also see 333 old, unpublished entries, many of them are from my earliest blog "Parfumistans Blog" (The Perfumista diary) written in swedish and imported to this site from the first place where the blog was suitiated, on the newspaper Expressen. Expressen was early in Sweden to offer space for bloggers on their site. Other of the unpublished stuff is pre-written perfumereviews, most of them also in swedish and some in english. My intention is to publish at least  the english written entries from time to time between all the new stuff I review. And of course waitng for the great idea how to redefine the blog. In the meantime, there is business as usual.

PS: Celebrating the 1000nd by sampling the lovely floral, spicy, fruity, airy Pichola from one of my favorite houses, Neela Vermeire Créations. Review will follow later on of this beautiful huge white-flowery perfume.

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Rose Privee

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)
Rose Privee is the latest rosecomposition from the classical nichehouse L'Artisan Parfumeur. Rose Privee is a creation of Bertrand Duchaufour and Stephanie Bakouche. Earlier rosecentered fragrances from the L'Artisan are the dark and dramatic Voleur de Roses and the rose-violet powder Drole de Rose. Rose Privee is something in the territory in between despite the pink, rosy packaging which indicates a light and sheer pink rose.

Rose Privee has one of the strangest openings that I have smelled for years which is definitly positive in my book. When described it will probably not be perceived as positive but it is as the fragrance balancing on the edge to smell unplesant but don't turn over to the wrong side. Rose Privee starts with
the for roseoil typical rubbernote which very soon turns to the smell of warm tires and then transforms in something similar to the smell of catpee in dry, hayish grass. If separating the notes in this cat-accord I smell mandarine, hay and basil and it seems as theese notes blended evokes this fatal olfactory combination.

Picture: Rose Priveè
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

After this nose-catching and challenging start, Rose Privee in its middlenotes becomes a more ordinary, rose dominated, floral (lilac, magnolia) musky blend with both fruity and herbal accents which creates a slight schizofrenic fragrance which couldn't chose which personality to be. In the basenotes there are dark notes with a dry patchouli which smell almost like dry tobbacoleaves combined with traces of basil  and amber. The somehow messy and uncertain impression of the middle- and basenotes unfortunately offsets the edgy start of the fragrance and lowers the overall impression of Rose Privee.  In the middle and basenotes there is something that reminds me of Vero Profumo Rozy Edp, probably the rose-lilac combo. Despite its messy character and the fact it's a bit annoying (the same phenomen as in Coqullite Tudor) I think Rose Privee is better than its reputation, it has got some negative comments in the blogosphere.

Rose Privee is suitable to wear for non-casual occasions year around. Sillage is medium and longevity great, about 24h.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Basil, mandarine, hay, lilac, carnation, magnolia, may rose, violet leaves, patchouli, amber

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

måndag 20 juli 2015

Téo Cabanel - Julia

Picture: Our new Swedish royalty HRH Princess Sofia
on her weddingday 13 June 2015.
Photo: From the press, avaible from many sources on internet
Julia is one of the first three releases (together with Alahine and Oha) when the old, venerable house of Téo Cabanel was re-launched in 2005. Julia is a re-working of inhouse perfumer Jean-Francois Latty of an older Julia formula, which I think I read somewhere was worn by Wallis, Duchess of Windsor who was a customer of Téo Cabanel in the most glorious days of the house.

Julia starts with a tangy accord of rhubarb and blackcurrant, notes thst could be harsh and sharp but obviously not in the skillfull hands of Latty. The accord feels. juicy and sunny which offsets the cold hyacinth dominated, flowery accord which is the heart of the fragrance. The hyachinth is supported by classical flowers as violet and jasmine and a plesant raspberry sweetness which supports the hyachinth-violet in the same discrete way as the iris is supported by the same berry in Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris. The raspberry and the rhubarb adds a contemporary touch to a, taken as a whole, timeless fragrance. The basenotes are elegant, woody, musky slight balsamic and matches the floral, tangy structure of Julia very well.
Picture: Julia
Photo: PR Téo Cabanel
Julia is a fragrance which suits very well for formal daytime summer dressing, it's a fragrance which intermediates confidence and exquisite taste. It´s discrete but in the same time clearly present, a very versatile perfume. Would be a good choice for a royalty like for example our new Princess Sofia for daytime representation. Longevity is good, for at least a day and sillage is medium.

Fragrances that comes to my mind (in style and apperance, they don't smell the same) when wearing Julia are Van Cleef and Arpels First and Purdistance Antonia.

Rating: 4

Notes: Mandarine, rhubarb, black currant, hyachinth, violet, jasmine, raspberry, musk, sandalwood, labdanum, incense

torsdag 16 juli 2015

Téo Cabanel - Hegoa

Picture: Hegoa
Photo: PR Téo Cabanel
Hegoa is a light breezy, refreshing fragrance in the natural summerscent category from top quality niche house Téo Cabanel. Hegoa is created by inhouse perfurmer Jean-François Latty.

Hegoa starts teaish with soft, supporting citric notes. The tea is soft green and soon also a watery, dewy white rose joins the breezy blend and Hegoa is fleeting in a discrete and elegant cloud around the wearer. As wearer, it feels like taking a bath in a luxary rosewater with the bathtube full of the white rosepetals. The longer Hegoa dries down, the moore notes of greenery comes forward. The green notes are smooth and delicate, like budding leaves. A soft and discrete musk is emphasizing the top and middlenotes and an ambery glow and some very light woods constitutes the base. Hegoa is a true example of "less is more" carefully blended and balanced with high quality ingredients.The fragrance feels very natural, no sharp chemicals in sight (smell). It's a carefree, casual chic fragrance, refreshing and suitable to wear in daytime, year around even if the fragrance itself  signals sunny summerdays in a wild english styled garden. Sillage is very close and longevity almost for a day.

Even if not smelling the same, Hegoa would probably appeal to those who like light, fleeting rosefragrances such as Parfums de Nicolai Rose Pivoine and Annick Goutal Rose Splendide. Also those who likes Early Roses and Lace Garden from Téo Cabanel, will like Hegoa as  it shares their natural, elegant style but in a lighter and more transparant interpretation.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, citrus, mandarine, rose petals, green tea, violet, wood, musk, amber

PS:  Fragrance & Art also carries the Téo Cabanel line.

måndag 13 juli 2015

Téo Cabanel - Early Roses

Picture: Young woman in a rosegarden
Painting by Umberto Veruda (1868-1904)
Source: flickr.com
Early Roses is created by the inhouse perfumer of the venerable perfumehouse Téo Cabanel, Jean-Francois Latty some years ago. The Téo Cabanel house IMO create high quality, very wearable, natural smelling fragrances with timeless character, a house which should be tested by perfumelovers who likes the styles of the houses of Parfums de Nicolaî and Annick Goutal.

Early Roses starts with a perfectly balanced combination of pink dewy, heady roses and an smooth pink pepper which isn't sharp or dominating at all. There are also natural smelling, light woody notes with a smell which reminds me of some fresh cedarwood and most of all; juniperwood. The pink rose is dewy fresh without any tangy or souer nuances. This stage feels very natural and refreshing and also a bit rare as refreshing roseaccords often involves geranium which isn't the case here.

As Early Roses dries further down, a smooth, fluffy creaminess appears, also this accord is perfectly balanced, nor the musk or the touch of berries are overpowering or too sweet. It's like a clean, minimalist cream where high quality roses are melted down. The rosy creaminess is resting on a warming and golden glowing  amberbase with light woody nuances. The amber is also light, delicate and feels sort of natural, there is not the heavy ambroxstyle, which is present in many contemporary rosefragrances. There is also a pleasant, slight salty touch in the later stage of Early Roses, that creates a slight seaside impression, maybe a hint of ambergris.
Picture: Early Roses
Photo: PR Téo Cabanel
Fragrances which reminds me of Early Roses are for example Coquiliete Tudor for the rosy creaminess, where Tudor is not so well balanced and harsh and screachy in comperasion. A fragrance of high quality which comes to, my mind when wearing Early Roses in its later stages is Parfums de Nicolai Rose Oud which also has delicate ambery, woody, rosy basenotes.

Early Roses is a officefriendly fragrance for days when craving a delicate pink rose, regardless season. Sillage is medium and longevity for about a day.

Early Roses is a fragrance in the same transparent, elegant, flowery style as the latest release from the Téo Cabanel brand, the delicate white flower-tubereuse Lace Garden. Both fragrances could be equaled to olfactory Monet gardens.

Rating: 5

Notes: Jasmine, water, rose, pink pepper, musk, amber, wood

måndag 6 juli 2015

Olfactive Studio - Panorama

Picture: Sheats Goldstein House, LA with panorama view
Photo: Miguel Sandinha, PR Olfactive Studio (c)
Panorama is the latest addition to the Olfactive Studio line. The green fragrance is inspired of the "urban jungle" and the amazing view from the famous Sheats Goldstein House, an extraordinary villa in Los Angeles. Panorama is created by perfumer Clement Gavarry.

Panorama starts green but not with the damp and moisty greeness that I associate with jungles. Instead it smells like some green Irish mist perfume, a cold, herbal, clover greeness, man cologne-ish in style. After a while Panorama gets warmer and spicier  and a gourmand note reminding me of the asian gourmand note in Neela Vermiere Creations Ashoka and also in  État Libre d'Orange Fils de Dieu du Riz et des Agrumes. Probably this is the wasabi note mantioned, but far away in strength compared to when eaten with sushi. There is also a light incense-pepper note lurking in the background and here there is something (minus some sweetness) that reminds me of Tauer Un Reveire du Jardin. After a while, cooler, fir-like,  greenery appears and once again Panorama feels very masculine. The basenotes is the most plesant part of Panorama, the blend has smoothing out, some almost flowery and earthy elements have joined the mix and suddenly I recognise an old acquaintance the rough and tough lady Balmain de Balmain which is much more distinct and interesting green blend compared to Panorama. Not much more is happening in Panorama, it's a safe linear, but quite different and a bit weird green blend which is almost refreshing in its apperance.

Picture: The Beautiful green liquid of Panorama
Photo: PR Olfactive Studio

Panorama is good for summer, office friendly. with close sillage and longevity for a day. Even if a unisex fragrance, to me it's more masculine which I also think of Balmain de Balmain which is marketed as a ladys fragrance.

Rating: 3

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, wasabi, violet leaves, fig leaves, galbanum, cardamom, freshly cut gras,  musk, vanilla, tonka beans, myrrh, labdanum, fir, patchouli

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the Panorama sample to test