torsdagen den 17:e april 2014

Fragrances for Easter

Picture: Easter postcard early 20th century
Wikipeda Commons
During the years my Easterfragrances mostly have been from the following cathegories: Incense, gourmand or green. This year therefore I'll feature one favorite from each category that will fit for Easter in some sense.

Passage d'Enfer (L'Artisan Parfumeur): The well balanced incensenote combined with an elegant white lily gives me associations of a cathedral in Easter. Rays of springlight flowing through the high, gotic windows and the voices from the choir is rises towards the gotic arches.

Imperial Tea (ByKilian):Technically this is of course not a gourmand but as I've a bit stomach ache and less appetite than usual, nothing really gourmand attracts me at the moment. It does however this refreshing and calming jasminetea fragrance. Review will follow next week.

Déjà de Printemps (Oriza L. Legrand): What could be more springlike green than the crisp and fresh leaves of springtime bulbflowers, fresh grass and glimpses of Lily of the Vally. Déjà de Printemps captures a just blooming springgarden perfectly.

Happy Easter!

måndagen den 14:e april 2014

A reminder about Mohur....

Photo; Mr Parfumista (c)
It seems as when I reviewed the beautiful Mohur Extrait from Neela Vermiere in september last year, it was not yet widely released. The broader launch was some weeks ago at Esxence 2014, information from Lucas on Chemist in a Bottle, read his very well written report from the event here.

Mohur Extrait is my favorite from Neela and I was reminded of its dark, rosy, velvet, golden, purple revelation when trying the airy, silk, silver, purple rose from Parfumerie Générale, Isparta 26 lately. Mohur Extrait could be a perfect companion in the coming Easter, especially on the serene and sad Good Friday as the fragrance is a calming and perfect for the contemplative mood. Here is the link to the full review of  Mohur Extrait.

fredagen den 11:e april 2014

Maria Candida Gentile - Burlesque

Picture: Perfumer Maria Candida Gentile
started to create her own rosewater as a little girl.
Photo: This cute photo of Maria is published on her website
(c) Maria Candida Gentile
The initial impression of Burlesque is like a candied iris accord, enhanced by dark, balsamic notes. There are also swirls of a light incense which performs in an almost sweet woody accord, for a while this part smells like wood from a juniper bush. Burlesque smehow reminds me of a balanced and non-excessive L'Artisan Explotions D'Emontions Skin on SkinLater on, there is a light cosmetic note shining through in Burlesque, combined with a touch of gunpowder. There is something that reminds me a bit of a clean interpreation of Etat Libre d'Orange Putain des Palaces. The longer in the drydown, the more the beautiful blended patchoulinote comes forward. The patchouli is warm, smooth a bit sweet and almost light herbal. There are absoluetly no harsh or dusty impression from the patchouli. Burlesque is my favorite from the three tested from the Exclusive Collection, very pleasant and in the same time intresting to wear during a whole workday. As a perfume the sillage is close, a real wristsniffer where interesting things going on. Longevity about a day. 

Rating: 5

Notes: Blood orange, iris, rose, patchouli, incense

Thanks to Fragance & Art for the sample to test 

onsdagen den 9:e april 2014

Maria Candida Gentile - Lady Day

Picture: Billie Holiday (1915-1959),
Photo: PR  (Getty) (c)
Lady Day starts intriguing with a cold, dry, cold flower (gardenia) complemented with almost tarry, leathery notes. As Lady Day dries down the gardenia comes forward, the composition becomes warmer and almost balsamic. From the middle to the base Lady Day reminds me of a gentler and less sweet version of the early 2000nd Bertrand Duchaufour creation for Lalique Flora Bella. As I like Flora Bella, Lady Day is also a very nice acquaintance. Just as Serge Lutens Une Voix Noire, Lady Day is a tribute to Billie Holiday and I think both fragrances are appropriate as such; Lady Day mirrors the positive sides of Billies life symbolized by the characteristic gardenia worn by her, Une Voix Noire the darker sides with the decaying interpretation of the flower.

I can image Lady Day as a perfect companion warm and humid summerevenings in the tropics but also for the dark nights of August up here in the North. Medium longevity, lasts for a workingday, and close sillage as this is an extrait.

Rating: 4

Notes: Galbanum, gardenia, peru balsam

Thanks to Fragance & Art for the sample to test 

måndagen den 7:e april 2014

Maria Candida Gentile - Luberon

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)
Lately I've tested some fragrances from Maria Candida Gentile, an Italian perfumer who's creations I really appreciate, see my reviews of some of the earlier releases ExultatHanburyBarry LyndonCinabreSideris. This week I'll write about my impressions of three fragrances from the Exclusive Collection and starts with the lavender beauty Luberon.

Luberon is inspired of the lavenderfields in the Provencale region with the same name. Trying it, I can imagine cycling around the lavendelfields a sunny summerday  inhaling the wonderful herbal-flowery scent. Luberon starts with the most natural smelling lavenderaccord, reminicent of the lanvender gold standard in the genre, Caldey Island Lavendel (swe). After a while tha lavender blend with other notes and becomes almost chalky-oily, a bit similar to a light petrolnote, maybe the minty leaves creates this effect together with the lavender. The rose nor the woody note is noticable as a separate notes, it's the beautiful lavender which dominates during the whole drydown. The longevity is very good for a lavenderfragrance, it lasts for a whole day performing outdoor activities, which also is the right setting for Luberon. Where Caldey Island Lavendel is musky in the base, Luberon is of a drier, woodier character.

Rating: 4

Notes: Lavender, rose, mint, oakmoss, cedar

Thanks to Fragance & Art for the sample to test 

lördagen den 5:e april 2014

Fragrance(s) of the week (14) 2014 - Kilian and more....

Picture: Kilian Hennessy,
the founder of  ByKilian
Photo: PR ByKilian (c)
Today I'm testing one of the new ByKilans from the Asian Tales collection: Sacred Wood. A great fragrance which I'll review when I have tried it a few more times. This week, I entered the Kilian-universe again, wearing the delicious honeyed tobacco Back to Black which has been neglected for too long. This made me think of one of my favorites flowers last summer, Water Caligraphy which is a fragrance that I have grown to love. See my updated review. The other floral favorites last summer was Annick Goutal Néroli (the discontinued Edt) and the perfect pink rose Rose Perfection by Robert Piguet. Now I'm longing for summer and the fragrance summer wardrobe.

PS: What a coincidence, the two "coverboys" of the perfume world, Pierre Guillaume and Kilian Hennessy in two entries in a row :-)


torsdagen den 3:e april 2014

Parfumerie Générale - Isparta 26

Picture: Pierre Guillaume
Photo: PR Parfumerie Générale (c)

As almost always when reviewing something from Parfumerie Générale it's hard to resist publish a picture of the perfumer Pierre Guillaume himself :-)

But now over to todays subject, Pierres latest release, a beautiful dark rose named Isparta 26. Isparta is named after the turkish province which roses produces superior roseoils, featured in this fragrance and 26 as PG:s numbered collection now has reached that number of fragrances.

Just reading about the ingredients of Isparta makes me excited. I have to admit that I'm very fond of the rose-patchouli-ambroxan combination in fragrances such as Juliette Has a Gun Lady Vengeance and Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady, and this accord, in Isparta combined with balsamic and animalic accords, makes me drool.

Isparta starts heavy but in the same time transparent and light, the rose is really purple, and the rosy smell is a bit tart and as a contrast it's surrounded by a not too sweet, jammy note. A clean, cold patchouli is also contrasting with a high and clear darkness, just as the night sky a starry night. As Isparta dries down it becomes a bit warmer, even if it remains in the cold spectrum, with balsamic and woody notes, among them a well balanced oud. The clean amber, the ambroxan is not as evident as in Portrait of a Lady, in Isparta it is handled with a lighter hand. In the basenote there is also a moisty, mossy note thar togeter with the tart, purple rose are contrasting the ambrox-oud combo. The mossy note together with the rose is what is left after 24h. The moss in this stage reminds me of the refreshing and uplifting mossy note of Parfumerie Générale Papyrus de Ciane.

Picture: Isparta, a dramatic, dark, purple rose
Photo: PR Parfumerie Générale (c)
  
I have read some comment that Isparta doesn't add anything new to the rosegenre. I have to strongly disagree as IMHO this is an unusual combination of the strong and intense but in the same time airy and light. In texture Isparta is just as an exquisite, purple silk veil with silverstitches and embroderies. That image makes me think of another beautiful purple rose, Neela Vermeire Creations Mohur Extrait, which seems to be Ispartas antithesis in the purple, rosy spectrum. Mohur is like a dense, smooth, purple silk velvet with golden stiches and embroderies as opposed to the light, transparent, sliver silk veil of Isparta. Even if these purples of course are not smelling the same, Mohur Extrait (which is more spicy and flowery than Isparta) somehow reminds me much more of Isparta than the more obvious (when reading about its notes) ambrox-rose-patchouli Portrait of a Lady. Just as Mohur, Isparta gives me images of a relaxed, life i luxury, somewhere in the East, during the time of Thousand and one nights.

Despite its light texture, Isparta 26  is strong in its concentration and one have to be careful when applying, too much and Isparta transforms to a sillagemonster. About four spritses is enough of Isparta to keep it within the limit of officetolerable. Sillage is great and longevity for days if more than the four spritses is applied :-)

Rating: 5

Notes: Red berries, rose, peru balsam, calamus, patchouli, olibanum, benzoin, oud, ambroxan, moss