Picture: It's a rainy May so far.... Photo: Mr Parfumista (c) |
lördag 10 maj 2014
Fragrance(s) of the week (19) - An intriguing perfumeline
torsdag 8 maj 2014
Maria Candida Gentile - Gershwin
Picture: Publicity portrait of George Gershwin (1898-1937), with autograph ca 1935, Wikipedia Commons |
Gershwin starts refreshing with excellent citrusnotes, underscored with a fizzy and wellbalanced pepper. The woody elements are soon coming forward and an almost juniperthree-like note appears. In both the top- and the middle stages Gershwin reminds me of a fresh, woody, chilly favorite of mine, The Different Company De Bachmakov. There is also something that slight resembles the chilly aura of Helmut Lang Cuiron.
Even if the overall impression of Gershwin is that of a linear fragrance, there is a notable difference between the top- and middlenotes and the base where Gershwin dries down in a beautiful, rounded almost honey-like incense. The incense is soft and not overpowering or sharp. Even in the basenotes, the impression of the forest like freshness of the earlier stages of the fragrance are still present but it's not the mainplayer anymore.
Picture: Gershwin in its stylish bottle Photo: PR Maria Candida Gentile (c) |
Those who appreciate Andy Tauers Incense Extreme and Parfumerie Générale L'Eau Guerriere even if these fragrances doesn't smell too close, they are somehow common in style.
Rating: 4
Notes: Winter and Sicilian lemons, bitter orange, grapefruit, pink pepper, sycamore (maple), water flowers, cloves, sandalwood, incense
Etiketter:
Ambre Sultan,
Citrus,
Cuiron,
De Bachmakov,
Gershwin,
Helmut Lang,
Incense Extreme,
L'Eau Guerriere,
Maria Candida Gentile,
Parfumerie Générale,
Review,
The Different Company
måndag 5 maj 2014
Maria Candida Gentile - Finisterre
Picture: Fisterre, Galicia, Spain Photo: Greta, Wikimedia Commons |
Finisterre is inspired by the second (the first is Cabo da Roca outside Lisabon which I've wisited myself) outermost tip of the Iberian Peninsula, Cape Finisterre in Galicia, where the wawes of the atlantic ocaean rolls in over the cliffs with full power. Finisterre really captures what I image as a sunny, windy summerday at the place. The first part has something in common with the original Kenzo pour Homme but without the intriguing aromatic aquatic twisted lily of the valley note that is the characteristic of the Kenzo. Very soon a very well done, not sharp, turpentine note appears and is present during the whole dry down. It's contrasted with a green, non sweet, minty note and when these notes are interacting a sea like note appears. There are also a woody freshness of fir present softened with a discrete sandalwood and immortelle. The immortele is not at all the bombastic proportions of for example Annick Goutal Sables or leathery strong as in Histoires de Parfums 1740 Marquise de Sade. The herbal qualities of Finisterre expresses itself as an soft anise/ licorice-like nuance which discretely accompanies the other notes. A note of crisp green leaves, just like fresh tulip or other bulbflowers crispy leaves i spring also appears and this part reminds me of the beautiful springfragrance of Oriza L.Legrand Déjà le Printemps. There is also a relaxing, salty, balsamic aspect of Finisterre, probably the ambregris which lends the composition a true oceanic expression.
Even if no distinguishable incensenote there is also an almost churchy aspect of Finisterre, a nuance of what is much more noticeable in MCG Sideris and Exultat. Maybe this is mirroring the fact that Finisterre is the final destination of the pilgrims of the Way of Saint James, the last 90 km walk from the pilgrim metropole Santiago de Compostela. When reaching Finisterre, the pilgrims following an old tradition, burns their clothes or shoes. Finsterre is a quite linear composition to my nose and one experience most of its features at the same time.
Picture:. The stylish bottle of Finisterre Photo: PR Maria Candida Gentile (c) |
Rating: 5
Notes: Sea notes, immortelle, pine tree, ambergris, sandalwood
Etiketter:
1740 Marquis de Sade,
Annick Goutal,
Cinabre,
Déjà Le Printemps,
Exultat,
Finisterre,
Histoires de Parfums,
Kenzo pour Homme,
Maria Candida Gentile,
Oriza L.Legrand,
Review,
Sables,
Sideris
torsdag 1 maj 2014
Parfumerie Générale - Grand Siècle Intense 7.1
Picture: Grand Siècle Intense Photo: PR Parfumerie Générale (c) |
Grand Siècle Intense is a follower to the very natural smelling bitter citrus cologne Cologne Grand Siècle in which Pierre Guillaume was inspired by the court of the Sun King Louis XIV in the seventeenth century and the few and pure ingredients which then was avaible to the parfumer.
Grand Siècle Intense starts with natural smelling bitter citrus and green notes. A realistic and refreshing, slight fizzy note of mint leaves appears after a while. This mint is also present in the original Maroocan Mint tea inspired Harmatan Noir 11, but in this fragrance, blended with smokey, spicy almost metallic notes. The minty note is also present in the easier to wear Noir Marine from the Phaedon line. Grand Siècle Intense goes on with green-woody notes, with the sparkilng green of cypress over light woods, fresh moss and a well intergrated vetiver. The cypress slightly reminds me of the sparkling green in Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien. A slight smokey touch also appears and glimpses of a very fine leather also appears and in the basenotes there is also a light, well rounded sweetness, probably the honey, which prevent the fragrance from beeing too aromatic in style.Just as in Cologne Grand Siècle there are no harsh or artifical smelling notes which seems to be quite common in cheaper aromatic/citrus fragrances. As usual with Parfumerie Générale this is high quality stuff and it's a smooth, delightful and easy to wear fragrance. Grand Siècle Intense is, just as it's forerunner, with its close sillage, perfect both for casual and office wear in spring and summer. The only drawback, just as with the cologneversion, is the longevity. Even if I applied liberally, I have to reapply every two-three hours and 75% of my 2 ml sample was gone after one wearing. On the other hand, I have dry skin so this is probably not a common problem.
Comparing the two Grand Siècle versions, Cologne Grand Siècle is more of a cologne in style (even if not fully) with citrusy, lemony notes and also with a for the fragrance characteristic note of a hard citruspastille. In Grand Siècle Intense the cologne inspired theme is most present in the early stage of the fragrance, later it's more of a citiric, green, light woody aromatic perfume. Both fragrances are unisex even if the cologne IMO is leaning a bit more to the masculine side and the Intense is just neutral.
Rating: 4 (if rating how it smells, its structure and quality of ingredients), 3 (if taken the longevity issues in consideration)
Notes: Bergamot, bitter orange, lemon leaves, mint, cypress, vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, tobacco absolute, hay, honey
måndag 28 april 2014
Van Cleef & Arpels - Un Air de First
Picture: Jasminum sambac 'Grand Duke of Tuscany' Photo: Scott Zona (cc) some rights reserved, Wikimedia Commons |
Un Air de First is a proper name for this fragrance, it is airier and cleaner than the original during the whole developement of the fragrance. It starts aldehydic, flowery, green but the flowers are fruity and bright compared to the soapy and heavier flowers of First. I also pervieve the flowers of Un Air de First as perdominantly clean and white (even the rose is white) wheras Firsts flowers are heavier and with a higher degree of yellow flowers. Pretty soon in the drydown, a note that almost smells like fresh tobacco appears in Un Air de First. Galbanum is als glimpsing but not as noticable as in First. Later on the tobacco is lit and a clean note of cigarettesmoke appears accompanying the jasmine. The notemix is not at all dirty as in Etat Libre d'Orange Jasmine et Cigarettes but it's not as dry and subtle as in M.Micallef Royal Vintage, it's more round and fruity. Un Air de First continues to dry down in a lipsticky, aldehydic flowery manner and is underscored by a musky slight woody base.
Picture. Un Air de First Photo: PR Van Cleef & Arpels (c) |
Rating: 3+
Notes: Galbanum, Peach, Fruity Notes, Jasmine, Rose, Green Notes, Vetiver, White Musk
torsdag 24 april 2014
By Kilian - Imperial Tea
Picture: Flower close up of Jasminum officinale Photo: B.traeger (cc) some rights reserved, Wikimedia Commons |
Imperial Tea starts with a beautiful, very natural smelling jasmine, which is sparkling, light and uplifiting. After a while a contrasting almost green a bit tart, chalky note appears which remainds me of the smell in the oyster colored Jugendstyled bathroom of my grandmother. This note, is also present for a while in By Kilian Playing with The Devil and just a tad denser also in Vanille Tonka from Parfums de Nicolaï. When Imperial Tea dries down, it is obvious that the jasmine is not as clean as the initial impression. In the middlenotes the animalic undertone of jasmine appears, contrasting the cleaner notes just as the chalky note persist. The teanote of Imperial Tea is subtle and just accompaning the jasmine. It is a light, gentle, white teanote, like silver tip tea and there is absolutely non of the for many teafragrances typical harsh, wet wipe note. The teanote of Imperial Tea is the best subtle teanote that I have smelled in perfume so far. In the basenotes, Imperial Tea becames darker in its tonality but the wellbalanced jasmine, tea, green chalky, slight animalic combo still persists.
Picture Bai Hao Yin Zhen tea leaves (white tea) Photo: lateasquirrel (cc) some rights reserved, Wikipedia Commons |
Imperial Tea is perfect for sipping white tea in a blooming jasmine bower a warm early summer day. It's a casual chic fragrance, perfect for daytime wear and is also very suitable for office. Compared to the other By Kilian which feature jasmine, Love and Tears, Imperial Tea is more minimalistic and less flowery in style. Both fragrances are classied as unisex and to my nose Love and Tears leaning more to the feminine side than Imperial Tea which is positioned in the middle but also slight more feminine. Longevity is for a day, if freely applied, the sillage is close, a true wristsniffer. This is a must have for summer :-)
Rating: 5
Notes: Jasmine, tea
måndag 21 april 2014
By Kilian - Sacred Wood
Picture: Santalum Album in Hyderabad Photo: J.M Garg (cc) some rights reserved, Wikimedia Commons |
Sacred Wood starts with delicious sparkling, transparent sandalwood. The cocosaccent in the sandalwood is distinct in the operning and is almost flowery and reminicent of the cocoslike note in tubereuse. Soon there is also a tart, slight, fizzy but in the same time smooth and milky green note contrasting the sandalwood. The milky green note reminds me of fig, not a listed note but the effect is similar. The sandalwood, tart milky fig combination persists during the whole dry down of Sacred Wood but as longer the fragrance dries down the more prominent the sandalwood is. In the later basenotes, the impression is of solid, warm sandalwood.
Picture: Sacred Wood By Kilian Photo: PR By Kilian (c) |
Rating: 5
Notes: Sandalwood oil, milk, wood, spices
Etiketter:
Annick Goutal,
By Kilian,
Dries van Noten,
Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle,
Etro,
Guerlain,
Ninféo Mio,
Review,
Sacred Wood,
Samsara,
Sandalo,
sandalwood,
Santal de Mysore,
Serge Lutens
torsdag 17 april 2014
Fragrances for Easter
Picture: Easter postcard early 20th century Wikipeda Commons |
Passage d'Enfer (L'Artisan Parfumeur): The well balanced incensenote combined with an elegant white lily gives me associations of a cathedral in Easter. Rays of springlight flowing through the high, gotic windows and the voices from the choir is rises towards the gotic arches.
Imperial Tea (ByKilian):Technically this is of course not a gourmand but as I've a bit stomach ache and less appetite than usual, nothing really gourmand attracts me at the moment. It does however this refreshing and calming jasminetea fragrance. Review will follow next week.
Déjà de Printemps (Oriza L. Legrand): What could be more springlike green than the crisp and fresh leaves of springtime bulbflowers, fresh grass and glimpses of Lily of the Vally. Déjà de Printemps captures a just blooming springgarden perfectly.
Happy Easter!
måndag 14 april 2014
A reminder about Mohur....
Photo; Mr Parfumista (c) |
Mohur Extrait is my favorite from Neela and I was reminded of its dark, rosy, velvet, golden, purple revelation when trying the airy, silk, silver, purple rose from Parfumerie Générale, Isparta 26 lately. Mohur Extrait could be a perfect companion in the coming Easter, especially on the serene and sad Good Friday as the fragrance is a calming and perfect for the contemplative mood. Here is the link to the full review of Mohur Extrait.
fredag 11 april 2014
Maria Candida Gentile - Burlesque
Picture: Perfumer Maria Candida Gentile started to create her own rosewater as a little girl. Photo: This cute photo of Maria is published on her website (c) Maria Candida Gentile |
The initial impression of Burlesque is like a candied iris accord, enhanced by dark, balsamic notes. There are also swirls of a light incense which performs in an almost sweet woody accord, for a while this part smells like wood from a juniper bush. Burlesque smehow reminds me of a balanced and non-excessive L'Artisan Explotions D'Emontions Skin on Skin. Later on, there is a light cosmetic note shining through in Burlesque, combined with a touch of gunpowder. There is something that reminds me a bit of a clean interpreation of Etat Libre d'Orange Putain des Palaces. The longer in the drydown, the more the beautiful blended patchoulinote comes forward. The patchouli is warm, smooth a bit sweet and almost light herbal. There are absoluetly no harsh or dusty impression from the patchouli. Burlesque is my favorite from the three tested from the Exclusive Collection, very pleasant and in the same time intresting to wear during a whole workday. As a perfume the sillage is close, a real wristsniffer where interesting things going on. Longevity about a day.
Rating: 5
Notes: Blood orange, iris, rose, patchouli, incense
Thanks to Fragance & Art for the sample to test
onsdag 9 april 2014
Maria Candida Gentile - Lady Day
Picture: Billie Holiday (1915-1959), Photo: PR (Getty) (c) |
I can image Lady Day as a perfect companion warm and humid summerevenings in the tropics but also for the dark nights of August up here in the North. Medium longevity, lasts for a workingday, and close sillage as this is an extrait.
Rating: 4
Notes: Galbanum, gardenia, peru balsam
Thanks to Fragance & Art for the sample to test
måndag 7 april 2014
Maria Candida Gentile - Luberon
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c) |
Luberon is inspired of the lavenderfields in the Provencale region with the same name. Trying it, I can imagine cycling around the lavendelfields a sunny summerday inhaling the wonderful herbal-flowery scent. Luberon starts with the most natural smelling lavenderaccord, reminicent of the lanvender gold standard in the genre, Caldey Island Lavendel (swe). After a while tha lavender blend with other notes and becomes almost chalky-oily, a bit similar to a light petrolnote, maybe the minty leaves creates this effect together with the lavender. The rose nor the woody note is noticable as a separate notes, it's the beautiful lavender which dominates during the whole drydown. The longevity is very good for a lavenderfragrance, it lasts for a whole day performing outdoor activities, which also is the right setting for Luberon. Where Caldey Island Lavendel is musky in the base, Luberon is of a drier, woodier character.
Rating: 4
lördag 5 april 2014
Fragrance(s) of the week (14) 2014 - Kilian and more....
Picture: Kilian Hennessy, the founder of ByKilian Photo: PR ByKilian (c) |
PS: What a coincidence, the two "coverboys" of the perfume world, Pierre Guillaume and Kilian Hennessy in two entries in a row :-)
torsdag 3 april 2014
Parfumerie Générale - Isparta 26
Picture: Pierre Guillaume Photo: PR Parfumerie Générale (c) |
But now over to todays subject, Pierres latest release, a beautiful dark rose named Isparta 26. Isparta is named after the turkish province which roses produces superior roseoils, featured in this fragrance and 26 as PG:s numbered collection now has reached that number of fragrances.
Just reading about the ingredients of Isparta makes me excited. I have to admit that I'm very fond of the rose-patchouli-ambroxan combination in fragrances such as Juliette Has a Gun Lady Vengeance and Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady, and this accord, in Isparta combined with balsamic and animalic accords, makes me drool.
Isparta starts heavy but in the same time transparent and light, the rose is really purple, and the rosy smell is a bit tart and as a contrast it's surrounded by a not too sweet, jammy note. A clean, cold patchouli is also contrasting with a high and clear darkness, just as the night sky a starry night. As Isparta dries down it becomes a bit warmer, even if it remains in the cold spectrum, with balsamic and woody notes, among them a well balanced oud. The clean amber, the ambroxan is not as evident as in Portrait of a Lady, in Isparta it is handled with a lighter hand. In the basenote there is also a moisty, mossy note thar togeter with the tart, purple rose are contrasting the ambrox-oud combo. The mossy note together with the rose is what is left after 24h. The moss in this stage reminds me of the refreshing and uplifting mossy note of Parfumerie Générale Papyrus de Ciane.
Picture: Isparta, a dramatic, dark, purple rose Photo: PR Parfumerie Générale (c) |
Despite its light texture, Isparta 26 is strong in its concentration and one have to be careful when applying, too much and Isparta transforms to a sillagemonster. About four spritses is enough of Isparta to keep it within the limit of officetolerable. Sillage is great and longevity for days if more than the four spritses is applied :-)
Rating: 5
Notes: Red berries, rose, peru balsam, calamus, patchouli, olibanum, benzoin, oud, ambroxan, moss
måndag 31 mars 2014
Vero Profumo Voile d'Extraits - Summary
Picture: Vero Kern with her Mito Edp Photo: PR Vero Profumo (c) |
* The Edp and Extraits/Voiles d'Extraits are different enough to justify owning one from each category if you are a Vero aficionado.
* When it comes to the Extraits vs Voile d'Extraits there is more of a question which version to own, ie if you prefer you fragrance in the higher octaves or in the lower register of the scale.
Overall the perfumes of Vero Kern is intriguing, high quality creations with great personalities and the line is flexible enough to let everyone find his/her favorite version.
torsdag 27 mars 2014
Vero Profumo - Kiki Voile d'Extrait
Picture: Mr Dunfords Champion wirehaired Foxterrier Arthur Wardle early twentieth century painting |
Kiki in Extrait is an multifacetted fragrance with notes of lavender and some notes that reminds me of wheat and beer notes over a dark, fresh earthy accord in the basenotes. Review here. The Edp version is almost gourmand in style and the passionfruitnote contrasted with dark patchouli is more prounanced. Review here.
To make a long story short, I think that Kiki Voile d'Extrait is close to the extrait (just as Rubj and Onda) it just play one or two ocataves higer on the scale. The fragrance is brighter and more sparkling in its apperance and the lavender is a bit more pronounced.
All the Kikis are intriguing fragrances with new twists in each stage. Kiki is a demanding, stubborn, racy and energetic character which is never boring, just as the two (after each other) wirehaired foxterriers of my grandparents who were named Kiki.
Kiki Voile d'Extrait has a good longevity just as the extrait, over 12h. Nice to wear during autumn, winter and early spring.
Rating: 5
Notes: Bergamot, citron, black currant, passionfruit; lavender, geranium, musk, patchouli, opoponax, amber caramel
Etiketter:
Kiki,
Kiki Voile d'Extrait,
lavender,
Review,
Vero Profumo
måndag 24 mars 2014
Vero Profumo - Rubj Voile d'Extrait
Picture: Bayâd singt zur Laute vor der Herrin und ihren Dienerinnen Bild im "Die Geschichte von Bayâd und Riyâd" (« Hadîth Bayâd wa Riyâd »), Maghrebinisches Manuskript, 13 Jh, Wkimedia Commons |
Rubj Voile d'Extrait starts brighter and fresher than more spicy and darker Rubj Extrait with its dirty notes of cumin. In the Voile d'Extrait, even if not mentioned in the notelist, I almost smell a note of a fresh lavender instead of the cumin. Just as in Rubj Extrait, the orangeblossom note is very beautiful, deep and full and without any syntetic wibes as in many orangeblossom fragrances. Also the jasmine is full bodied in texture, natural and blends perfectly with the orangeblossom. Even if Rubj Voile d'Extrait lays an octave or two higher than the Extrait, it also intermediate the image of resting on a couch, hiding from the heat at noon in the palace gardens of Alhambra during the days of the Moors in Al-Andalus. The Extrait is like resting in the same place in the warm and velvet dark evening, lighted by the stars, the full moon and the torches in the palacegarden, listen to the sparkling of the fountains and the music from the lute and other strings.
Overall, to my nose, Rubj Extrait is a bit more complex with its dirty, retro notes and Rubj Voile d'Extrait is easier to wear and could therefore be appreciated among a wider audience. Rubj Voile d'Extrait is as indicated above, proper for daytime wear and the mysterious Extrait is better suited for evenings and nights even if I don't care about such "rules" and wears the Extrait also at daytime. Longevity for both fragrances are about 12h, the Extrait a bit longer and the sillage is good, with a bit better radiance from the Voile d'Extrait.
Rating: 4+ (Extrait still 5)
Notes: Orange blossom, jasmine, musk, cumin
torsdag 20 mars 2014
Vero Profumo - Onda Voile d'Extrait
Picture: Onda Voile d'Extract Photo: PR Vero Profumo (c) |
In both Onda Extrait and Voile d'Extrait the vetivernote is dominating and in both fragrances in a different way than in most vetiverfragrances, especially the extrait is unusual. In both fragrances the vetiver is surrounded by spices, herbs, mossy and woody elements which creates the perfect image of the smell of early spring, when the snow has just melted and the sun is warming up the soil in the forestground. That was the situation when I tested Onda Voile d'Extrait and I took a walk around the small lake in the woodland nearby. Onda Voile d'Extrait matched perfectly as well as the drops of the Extrait that I worn on my left arm as reference. When comparing the two Ondas I think the Extrait is the more difficult of the two. The Extrait starts deeper, darker and almost animalic, dirty whereas the Voile d'Extrait is ligther and more sparkling, it has more of the fizzy gingernotes where Extrait has deeper and warmer spicy notes. The Extrait is more retro in style, with powdery, a bit dirty notes and the vetiver is seamless blended with the other ingredients. The Voile d'Extrait is clearer, the vetiver is greener and more distinct and the composition is somehow fresher in appearance. I think the Voile d'Extrait will appear to a broder public than the Extrait which is more complicated and to generalize, more of a "perfumista fragrance". I like both versions but prefer the Extrait as it is more challenging during it's developement.
Onda Voile d'Extrait is suitable for casual daytime wear but it's also good for office. It's perfect for late winter and spring, the sillage is medium and longevity for 12h+.
Those who likes vetiver fragrances such as Chanel Sycomore and L'Artisan Parfumeur Coeur de Vetiver Sacré, sharp, dark, smoky greens as Hermès Eau de Gentiane Blanche and Eau d'Italie Sienne l'Hiver will probably also appreciate Onda Voile d'Extrait.
Rating: 4 (Onda Extrait still 5 just as when I tested 2009 and 2011)
Notes: Vetiver, ginger, nutmeg, coriander
Etiketter:
Chanel,
Coeur de Vetiver Sacre,
Eau d'Italie,
Eau de Gentiane Blanche,
Hermès,
Kiki,
L'Artisan Parfumeur,
Onda,
Onda Voile d'Extrait,
Review,
Rubj,
Sienne l'Hiver,
Sycomore,
Vero Profumo,
Vetiver
måndag 17 mars 2014
Vero Profumo - Mito Voile d'Extrait
Picture: The great swedish soprano Birgit Nilsson (1918-2005), maybe the closest to a Diva we have had in this country of Jante. MitoVoile d'Extrait would have fit character as Birgit perfectly. Photo: Gunnar Harnesk 1948, Wikimedia commons |
Picture: The retrostyled bottle of Mito Voile d'Extrait Photo: PR Vero Profumo (c) |
Rating: 5
Notes: Citrus, galbanum, tubereuse, champaca, hyacinth, magnolia, peach, cypress, labdanum, moss, musk
lördag 15 mars 2014
Fragrance(s) of the week (11) - Mainstream week
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c) |
Monday: My new favorite for spring Elie Saab Le Parfum L'Eau Couture reminds me of lily of the valley, some greenery over vanilla. Springlike crispy but in the same time warm.
Tuesday: Miss Dior Edp current version (former Miss Dior Cherie). Don't understand all the compliments about this contemporary chypre, floral, musky and light fruity. I think it's a good representative of the genre and a perfume with it's own characteristics, which are still recognizable after reforumlations, even if the strawberryflowers and the popcornnote seems to be replaced compared to the original 2005 Miss Dior Cherie release. Not many niche fragrances has a personality like this modern classic.
Wednesday: My liking for Boucheron Place Vendôme is growing. An elegant contemporary floral with contrasting notes reminiscent of airy tobaccoleaves in the basenotes. Would be perfect for spring in companion with an ivory colored, elegant, light, wollen suit, worn with a smooth silk top.
Thursday: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Edp is in the same contemporary chypre floral category (with the typical patchouli in the basenotes) as Miss Dior Edp but darker, more formal and grown up. Just as pleasant as Miss Dior to wear during a working day, but provides a more serious impression.
Friday: Nina Ricci Nina L'Elixir is a candied version of the original Nina, sweeter with less of the uplifitng citrusy sparkle of its forerunner. Strangly, in the dry down, Nina L'Elixir suddenly starts to smell like a much sweeter, crystallized Frapin Speakeasy. Nothing wrong with this perfume but this was the let down during the week, Nina L'Elixir doesn't play in the same leauge as the other tested, or for that matter, the original Nina in in which I perceive the same comfort level as in the fragrances tested Monday-Thursday.
Now I have to plan my next "theme-week", a week in Guerlain could be something....
Etiketter:
Boucheron,
Chanel,
Coco Mademoiselle,
Dior,
Elie Saab,
Frapin,
Le Parfum L'Eau Couture,
Miss Dior Cherie,
Miss Dior Edp,
Nina,
Nina L'Elixir,
Nina Ricci,
Place Vendôme,
Review,
Speakeasy
torsdag 13 mars 2014
Olivier Durbano - Heliotrophe
Picture: A bottle of Heliotrophe with the bloodstones (heliotrophes) which are the inspiration for the fragrance Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c) |
Heliotrophe starts balsamic, with a hint of mandarine and a smell similar to red "autumberry" notes such as cranberries and rowan berries. There is also a tender, juicy, spiciness present combined with an almost powdery slight vanillic note, probably the heliotrophe (flower). After a while a herbal impression also appears. The herbal note creates a slight medical impression. In its earlier stages, Heliotrophe reminds me of Serge Lutens Chypre Rouge. Later Heliotrophe deepens and gets warmer with a light saffronnote which interacts with the resins and woods in different layers of the perfume, just as the incense typical for all the perfumes in the Bijoux Pierre Poemes. Heliotrophe is the smells from the forest with it's morass' a sunny day in the early autumn.
Picture: Another peace of inspiration to Heliotrophe Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c) |
Rating:3+
Notes: Elemi, olibanum, ginger, blood mandarin, angelica, chili pepper; saffron, magnolia, nagarmotha, heliotrope, myrrh, cedar, sandalwood, musk, ambergris, benzoin
Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample
måndag 10 mars 2014
Olivier Durbano - Black Tourmaline
Picture: Black Tourmaline by Olivier Durbano Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c) This also applies to the pictures below |
Black Tourmaline starts heavy with a very natural smelling tar-note. Soon Black Tourmaline smells like an Isle whisky, with its notes of tar and turf with a tad of smoke. The incense is interplaying well blended with the other notes. As Black Tourmaline dries down the tarry wood notes are softened by different dry spicy notes. There is also a hint of a quite rough leather but not as rough as in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Cuir which is the fragrance that I find most similar to Black Tourmaline, Cuir is almost a sort of turned up follower of Black Tourmaline, even if Cuir also have the original smoky note that resembles grilled meat. Cuir is overall a stronger and heavier perfume. In the basenotes the dark and potent notes of Black Tourmaline are offsetted by an accord similar to the smell of the forest floor which provides the fragrance a sort of aronatic, fresh and clear expression. I guess this is achieved by the mossy and patchoulinotes interacting with the spices. To me Black Tourmaline is totally unsweet, opposed to MdO Cuir which have some resin sweetness. Sometimes I find such total lack of sweetness i a perfume as a relief.
Black Tourmaline is, just as MdO Cuir, a sort of "outdoor perfume" a fragrance which immediately gives me associations to the autumnal hunt in the swedish forests. The woody and damp smells from the forest, the smoke from the campfire when taking the lunchbreak, the smell from the well oiled riefles and smeared leathery guncases, the woolen, moleskin and leathery smells from the clothes. Black Tourmaline is a unisex fragrance not leaning either to the masculine or feminine side as opposite to MdO Cuir which I find very masculine. It's a perfume for daytime casual wear but could be worn to work if very sparingly applied, this is potent stuff. Sillage is medium and longevity for 12h+.
Black Tourmaline could be appreciated by those who likes Amouage Interlude Man, Carner Barcelona Cuirs and Nasomatto Black Afgano.
Rating: 5
Notes: Cardamom, coriander, cumin, frankincense, pepper, smoked wood, oud, leather, precious woods, musk, amber, moss, patchouli
Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test
torsdag 6 mars 2014
Olivier Durbano - Pink Quartz
Picture: An elephant carved in rose quartz Wikimedia commons |
Pink Quartz is very intriguing, probably (as the notelist indicate) all the wellbalanced ingredients creates this impression. Pink Quartz is a true unisexfragrance and IMO it lending to the masculine side, here is a rose (without oud) for men. Despite this, it's pleasant also for a woman to wear, an exception when it comes to pink roses as it is not as sweet as most pink fragrances.. Sillage is close and longevity for 12h+, an exellent choice for the early spring.
Picture: The tempting Pink Quartz Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c) |
Rating: 5
Notes: Bergamot, pink grapefruit, olibanum, saffron, ginger; palmarosa, damask rose, palisander rosewood, rose, amber, patchouli, myrrh, benzoin, white musk
Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample
måndag 3 mars 2014
Springtime fragrances
Soon they're here! Photo: Mr Parfumista (c) |
Foin Fraîchement Coupé (Oriza L.Legrand): Starts fizzy, light green over dry haynotes, clover and herbs. Deepens in a sweeter, almost anise-liqueur-like light musky note. Comnines rual, green freshness with a delicate, sweet. light gourmand accord. Excellent longevity, I can smell whiffs from this fragrance from the dept of my skin days after I worn FFC.
Le Parfum L'Eau Couture (Elie Saab): From the very moment when the first molecules hit my skin when testing LPL'EC I knew this is a must have. Starts bright and springlike, with an accord reminiscent of an almondy and not so cold Lily of the Valley, even if the notelist says magnolia. The classical Kurkdjian/Saab orangeblossom accord is also there but not as highlighted as in the original Le Perfum. A light vanilla complements the flowers perfectly. This is a reminder: Never underestimate "the mainstreams". Many of them are much better than all of the anxious complicated fragrances which are too many in the tide of nicherealeases.
Forever and Ever Dior (Christian Dior): This is a fragrance which I have neglected to try for a decade because of its silly name. It was displayed when I passed through a perfumestore and I tested it and fell immadiately for its light, bright, pink, rosy and crisp flowery charm. An elegant and very wearable springfragrance for ladies of all ages.
L'Heure Bleue (Guerlain): I think I mentioned L'HB in my list of springfragrances last year too. Every late winter/early spring I long a bit extra for this magic velvet dark blue, dusty, iris-neroli-heliotrophe-tonka elixir in all of its concentrations. L'HB is a fragrance which never loses its interest and which I appreciate even better the more I sniff from the flood of new fragrances.
Onda (Vero Profumo): Like taking a walk over the fields when the snow just has melted. The smell of earth, mud and the grass of yesteryear with light animalic whiffs from the horses on the barnyard nearby. (Onda Extrait & Voile d'Extrait).
Which fragrances do you perfer for spring?
torsdag 27 februari 2014
L'Artisan Parfumeur - Quick impressions of some classic L'AP:s 2(2)
More impressions from my random L'Artisan samples sniffing. Today from the lighter fragrances department:
Coeur de Vetiver Sacré: A creation of Karine Vinchon Spehner from as late as 2010 which seems to have flopped as it would be discontinued if I have understand i right. Despite the name that indicate this is a vetiver dominated fragrance, the said note is discrete and interacting in a subtle and wellbalanced way with incense, spices, light fruity and woody notes. Calming and relaxing and a bit misunderstod IMO.
Thé pour un Été: A creation from the era of fresh perfumes, the 90s (1995), by Olivia Giacobetti. A refreshing jasminetea blend with some lemony sparkle and contrasted with a very light spicyness. TpuE has a certain retro feeling, when I smell it I immediately come to think of Catherine Deneuve in the movie Indochine from the colonial French Indochina. TpuE is gentler and doesn't get the smell as much of wet wipe that is common in many tea fragrances form the era, for example the iconic Bulgari Eau Parfumeé au Thé Vert. TpuE seems also to be a gentler forerunner to another jasmine-tea-spicy fragrance Dior Escale à Pondichéry.
Verte Violette: A bit strange 2001 violet creation by Anne Flipo. Starts smelling like Yves Saint Laurent Paris and after a while a note of water melon appears and adds an aquatic but also vegetal impression.When it alls calms down, a beautiful, sleek, violet flower note remains. In the same group as Annick Goutal La Violette which is (despite the name) greener and with a crispy candy feeling and Parfums de Nicolaï Violette in Love which is more fruity/sparkling.
To summon up: In the flood of all new releases, don't forget to look back and revaluate the old gems from the fragrance houses which has stood the test of time.
Picture: Thé pour un Été, refreshing, retro jasmine Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c) |
Thé pour un Été: A creation from the era of fresh perfumes, the 90s (1995), by Olivia Giacobetti. A refreshing jasminetea blend with some lemony sparkle and contrasted with a very light spicyness. TpuE has a certain retro feeling, when I smell it I immediately come to think of Catherine Deneuve in the movie Indochine from the colonial French Indochina. TpuE is gentler and doesn't get the smell as much of wet wipe that is common in many tea fragrances form the era, for example the iconic Bulgari Eau Parfumeé au Thé Vert. TpuE seems also to be a gentler forerunner to another jasmine-tea-spicy fragrance Dior Escale à Pondichéry.
Verte Violette: A bit strange 2001 violet creation by Anne Flipo. Starts smelling like Yves Saint Laurent Paris and after a while a note of water melon appears and adds an aquatic but also vegetal impression.When it alls calms down, a beautiful, sleek, violet flower note remains. In the same group as Annick Goutal La Violette which is (despite the name) greener and with a crispy candy feeling and Parfums de Nicolaï Violette in Love which is more fruity/sparkling.
To summon up: In the flood of all new releases, don't forget to look back and revaluate the old gems from the fragrance houses which has stood the test of time.
måndag 24 februari 2014
L'Artisan Parfumeur - Quick impressions of some classic L'AP:s 1(2)
Picture: One of the L'Artisans, Drôle de Rose Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c) |
Bois Farine: A 2003 Jean-Claude Ellena inspiration from an unusual tree in the Caribbian. Sweet, powdery, like flour, woody with some spices. The opening smells like peanutbutter. Delicious, mouthwatering and comforting (if properly dosed) to wear cold and grey days. Unfortunately Bois Farine now is discontinued, so it's time to stock up.
Voleur de Roses: Created by Michel Almairac as early as 1993 and it's a forerunner to the whole dark, earthy, moisty, dark, red rose and patchouli that I like so much. VdR is somehow the unpolished gem (ruby) of the genre the patchouli is dirtier and moistier, the red rose is darker and bolder than in the more polished followers such as Guerlain Rose Barbare, Juliette has A Gun Lady Vengeance, and Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady.
Drôle de Rose: A powdery, cosmetic, lemony, cherful, sunny take on the combined violet and pink rose theme, created by Olivia Giacobetti in 1996. Also a forerunner to fragrances such as Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose which more formal in appearance and with more pronounced violet than in DdR and Etat Libre d'Orange Putain des Palaces which is a dramatic, dark and dirty variation of violet-rose.
To be continued in the next post.
fredag 21 februari 2014
L'Artisan Parfumeur - Explosions D'Émotions 2 (2)
Today impressions of the two remaining Explosions D'Emotions.
Skin on Skin "a wanton embrace" also for this fragrance the marketing blurb is fitting. Skin on Skin embraces you with an obtrusive, chemical candynote which interplays with a sweet irisnote, passably dimmed with soft saffron somewhere in the middle of the fragrance and moved to a note similar to hairspray. A musky, smoky (probably the Whisky mentioned among the ingredients) suede is lurking in the background, contrasting the hairspray and the sweet notes. As the fragrance is strong and shrill, one should be careful with application. Skin on Skin seems almost as sort of an experimental mockery of a great iris-suede as Histoires de Parfums Tubereuse 1 Capricieuse which, despite its name, foremost is an iris-suede with gourmand accords of cacao and saffron. Skin on Skin could also be one of the sketches to Duchaufours own L'Artisan creation Traverseé du Bosphore.
Amour Nocturne "the intimacy of the night" Amour Nocturne shocks with a loud and garish chemical note of cocos + milk chocolate like a liquid Bounty Bar. As it dries down to the middle- and basenotes, the scent softens and a milky accord infused with some sweet candynotes contrasted with a dry burned (probably hints of the gunpowdernote), plastic slight flowery note (as in Parfumerie Generale Psychotrope but I like the latter much better) dominates the fragrance until it's fading out about 24h after the initial application. After going through the jarring top notes, Amour Nocturne despite or maybe because of the burned, plastic is quite pleasant and comforting to wear in a small dose. Just as with Skin on Skin: Beware to overapply this!
To sum it all up: Probably I'm too old school and doesen't understand anything from this avantgarde(?) creating: Probably I also have a too ironic mind because when sampling Explosions D'Émotions I almost suspect Bertrand Duchaufour for making fun of his public and the current exalting of niche, taking it too serious. After all, these fragrances are more expensive than the IMO overall much better L'Artisans in the regular line. Seems like he's taking the concept a famous name (the perfumer and brand) + nice bottle + an OK juice + some "exclusive" marketing chit-chat to the extreme. An interesting concept and the fragrances as such is very well worth sampling (thanks to Fragrance & Art for the samples) as a reflection of the state of niche today or just to find an unconventional and (in some phases of them if applied sparingly) comforting fragrance.
Picture: Skin on Skin Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c) |
Picture: Amour Nocturne Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c) |
To sum it all up: Probably I'm too old school and doesen't understand anything from this avantgarde(?) creating: Probably I also have a too ironic mind because when sampling Explosions D'Émotions I almost suspect Bertrand Duchaufour for making fun of his public and the current exalting of niche, taking it too serious. After all, these fragrances are more expensive than the IMO overall much better L'Artisans in the regular line. Seems like he's taking the concept a famous name (the perfumer and brand) + nice bottle + an OK juice + some "exclusive" marketing chit-chat to the extreme. An interesting concept and the fragrances as such is very well worth sampling (thanks to Fragrance & Art for the samples) as a reflection of the state of niche today or just to find an unconventional and (in some phases of them if applied sparingly) comforting fragrance.
Etiketter:
Amour Nocturne,
Expolsions D'Emotions,
Histoires de Parfums,
L'Artisan Parfumeur,
musk,
Psychotrope,
Review,
Sin on Skin,
Traversee du Bosphore,
Tubereuse 1 Capricieuse
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