måndag 26 augusti 2013
Quick impressions - Made in Italy
Rosamunda (Laboratorio Olfattivo): A pink Lady Vengeanance, even if this is a rose/(light)oud mix instead of rose/patchouli in the contemporary style which I appreciate so much. Uplifting and longlasting, perfect for a summerday.
Nirmal (Laboratorio Olfattivo): A Prada Infusion d'Iris follower, lighter, a bit sweeter and maybe a bit meek in comparation with the Prda. Overall a nice iris which is suitable for office, couldn't bother anybody.
Roma Imperiale (Profumi del Forte): This sweet flowery beauty with some wellbalanced almost cookielike notes with some dangerus, on the verge to dirty notes luring behind mus be a Maria Candida Gentile creation. I recognize the latter intriguing notes from creations of her own line.
Versilia Aurum (Profumi del Forte): How could a fragrance with strawberry be so good? Smooth, tender, not too sweet, longlasting and a pleasure to wear. It's like the strawberry blossom has been bottled in a golden nectar.
La Divina Tubereuse (Antonio Visconti): True, fresh and crispy daytime tubereuse growing in the garden.Not the dangereus, carnal nighttime facet of this beautiful flower. One of the very best, if not the best, fresh tubereuses I have tried so far.
Rebel (Antonio Visconti): Elegant and polished patchouli, no dirty hippies which could be indicated by the name. This is the minor rebellion of the well-bred heir.
Piper Nigrum (Lorenzo Villoresi): The ultimate spicy fragrance, it's like true spices are bottled. A bit harsh and strong for me but just perfect for Mr Parfumista after some testing, the first test was not successful..The Villoresi fragrances is not easy, they don't flatter at once, they have to be worn several times to be truly appreciated.
Teint de Neige (Lorenzo Villoresi): I have reviewed TdN earlier but as I like it more and more (it has grown to love) I have to mention this stunning gunpowdery/soapy Villoresi creation where some dirty notes just could be glimpsed under the white cleanness. The model for contemporary, retro, soapy aldehydes
Etiketter:
Antonio Visconti,
La Divina Tubereuse,
Laboratorio Olfattivo,
Lorenzo Villoresi,
Nirmal,
Piper Nigrum,
Profumi del Forte,
Rebel,
Review-mini,
Roma Imperiale,
Rosamunda,
Teint de Neige,
Versilia Aurum
torsdag 22 augusti 2013
Coquillete - Impressions of Herat & Moramanga
Picture: Coquillete minis Photo: PR Coquillete (c) |
Herat: Sort of well-behaved and fresh ELDO Jasmine & Cigarettes but without the off-putting old-cologne/dirty notes that I percieve from J&C. Herat is cigarettesmoke, jasmine, fresh tobacco-and balsamic notes, the incense and the other fumes are rather quiet to my nose. When Herat dries down it takes an unexpected twist, suddenly it smells like a less distinct and weaker Cuiron the unfortunately discontinued contemporary Helmut Lang leather. I think Herat is a unisexfragrance but from the four Coquilletes Herat it is the most masculine offering.
Rating: 4
Notes: Tobacco, jasmine, ylang-ylang, amber, cannabis, myrrh, labdanum, incense, moss, vetiver, ambergris
Moramanga: Starts with a beautiful fleshy jasmineaccord which reminds med of the Serge Lutens jasmine classic A la Nuit. As Moramanga dries down other tropical flower appears and underscores the jasmine just as the vanilla/musk and warm resinnotes in the base. If I didn't already owned A la Nuit Moramanga would be a candiate for the lush jasmine in the perfumewardrobe.
Rating: 4
Notes: Jasmine, gardenia, iris, tolu balsam, opoponax, benzoin, tubereuse, ylang-ylang, vanilla, musk
The Coquillete fragrances are all pleasant and easy to wear with good longevity and moderate to medium projection. They are non-offensive and totaly officefriendly. The fragrances are good for summer, these are the type of fragrances that intensifies in warm weather and longevity is good about more or less a day tested in hot weather. The overall impression is that one fragrances is in the same pleasable and wearable track as the By Kilian In The Garden of Good and Evil - line (Sulmona), two gentler, not as edgy, ELD'O-styled releases (Herat, Sumatera) and one in the classic soliflore-genre (Moramanga). The line is well worth trying if searching for a comfortable, not so complicated but in the same time interesting, good smelling fragrance. A set of minibottles of 5 ml each is avaible and provides a good option for extensive testing.
måndag 19 augusti 2013
Coquillete - Impressions of Sulmona & Sumatera
Picture: Sulmona Photo: PR Coquillete (c) |
Sulmona: Sulmona opening like an almondcoockie paired with tropical flowers and then dries down over a vanillic base. A pleasent, warm and non-disturbtive, oriental, floral, vanilla with modest projection and good longevity. Smells straight forward good without any unexpected twists. A fragrance in the tropical vanilla family as for example Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Fleurs de Comores but without the contrasting slight dirty notes of the latter. Despite its sweetness, Sulmona is a good easy to wear fragrance for summer.
Rating: 3
Notes: Vanilla, sugar, bitter almond, orangeblossom,
Sumatera: Sumatera is said to be derived from only fresh patchoulileaves and with no use of dried leaves and this will give it a soft character. If there is the leaves or something else that gives the soft character that I percive I dont know. Sumatera is sort of soft and sweet light herbal combined with a soft cinnamon which to me is the dominating note in this fragrance. Cinnomon often tend to be a bit harsh but this is definitly not the case here. To me Sumatera is like a soft and refreshing cinnamon tea. Intriguing and special.
Rating: 4
Notes: Patchouli, jasmine, different white flowers, cinnamon, black pepper, cedarwood, musk, vanilla, jasmine
My impressions of the other two Coquillete fragrances will be posted in the next entry.
Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the samples to test
torsdag 15 augusti 2013
Jardins d'Écrivains - Gigi
Picture: Gigi by Jardins d'Écrivans Photo: PR Jardins d'Écrivains (c) |
Gigi starts with a sunny accord of orangeblossom, tubereuse and jasmin supported by some fresh greenery and a hint of a cocos note often recognized together with tubereuse, I think it's one facet of the flowers scent. Soon also a subdued fruity note appears which deepens the fragrance just a bit, but the transparant sparkling impression is still dominating. Further in the dry down an almost nailpolish like note (but not in the chemical way) appears but in a pleasant way. I think it's the black currant paired with the, in this stage, nondescript white flowers that creates this effect. The base is moderately woody-musky and supports the other notes in a in a harmonious way.
Moderate I think is the right way to describe Gigi. It's a nice and gentle without any strange passages, a typical IFRA/EU compliant floral fragrance of today. Gigi is not in the putty/powdery/soapy floral genre which is typical for the releases of the latest year, Gigi is clean, transparant, white floral. Unfortunately it seems as my skin almost eat Gigi, and even if there is clear traces left after a day of wearing, the fragrance ends up somehow bland for me. Even the other feminine Jardins d'Écrivains the cologne La Dame aux Camélias appears much clearer, is more distinct and creates images to me, than the Edp Gigi. Gigi is very officefriendly and easy to wear.
Those who likes fragrances like Prada Infusion de Tubereuse, the original Gianfranco Ferré (with the same name) and Ramón Monegal Kiss My Name and Lovely Day, despite the three latter are way more distinctive and have more expressed personalities, I think also could appreciate Gigi.
Rating: 3
Notes: Freshly cut grass, orangeblossom, neroli, tubereuse, jasmin, blackcurrant, sandalwood,white musk
Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of Gigi
måndag 12 augusti 2013
Jardins d'Écrivains - La Dame aux Camélias
Picture: Marie Duplessis (1824-1847) Watercolor by Camille Roqueplan (1802-1855) |
La Dame aux Camélias starts with classic orangeblossom cologne notes blended with green and supported with a very smooth cardamom. The impression is that of freshly laundered high quality linen sheets but without any contemporary detergent note. After a while an accord of delicate, subtle a bit oldfashioned (in a good way) and chilly flowers joins. The scent is clean but underneeth there is something almost on the verge to dirty, light animalic and maybe it's the indolic facet of orangeblossom that makes itself known combined with the musk and powdery tonka of the base. La Dame aux Camélias is a fragrance that triggers the imagination, I can well imagine that this was the scent of the exclusive linen sheets of the real Dame aux Camélias, the courtesan Marie Duplessis who also was the mistress of Alexandre Dumans the younger and the model for Marguerite Gautier in his novel La Dame aux Camélias (1848).
Beeing a colognestyled fragrance, La Dame aux Camélias should be applied liberally and if so, it lasts for a day, anyway if the weather is rainy and the conditions are humid. La Dame aux Camélias is intruiging and in the same time easy and pleasant to wear, entirely officefriendly. And the genereous 250 ml bottle is so beautiful....
Picture: La Dame aux Camélias Photo: PR Jardins D'Ecrivains |
Rating: 4+
Notes: Verbena, cardamom, orange blossom, violet, rose, camellia, tonka bean, musk, juniper wood
Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of La Dame aux Camélias
torsdag 8 augusti 2013
Robert Piguet -Alameda
The Femme fatale spirit of Alameda - Salome oil on canvas by Franx von Stuck 1906 Wikimedia commons |
Picture: Alameda by Robert Piguet Photo: PR Robert Piguet (c) |
Alameda is a rich fragrance with great sillage and longevity for 24h+. It's not the fragrances for the scentfobic office but in a fragrancefriendly surrounding, a light dose could be nice preferably during the dark and cold season. For eveing and festive occasions, Alameda is just amazing.
Rating: 5
Notes: Bergamot, rose, lily, orris, patchouli, amber, castoreum
Etiketter:
Alameda,
Chypre,
Estee Lauder,
Knowing,
La Perla,
Montana,
Parfum d'Peau,
Review,
Robert Piguet
måndag 5 augusti 2013
Robert Piguet - Rose Perfection
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c) |
Rose Perfection starts with a quick whiff of the typical green rubberlike not which is typical for natural roseoils. Soon the fragrance transforms in a fizzy very pink velvet rose. It has a natural sweetness and the scent of the pink petals are dominating even if slight offset by just a gentle dose of the green tart smell from the stem, leaves and thorns. In other bright rosefragrances where the tart note is more distinct, the impression of the rose is more of rosewater from a wild rosebush as for example Annick Goutal Rose Splendide and Lostmarc'h Iroaz. Rose Perfection is far away from this wild roses, Rose Perfection is a highly cultivated rose with an impressing pedigree growing in the symmetrically designed garden of a french renaissance castle. In style and apperance Rose Perfection reminds me of Serge Lutens Sa Majesté la Rose another elegant pink rose primarily focusing on the delicate rosepetals instead of the rose as a whole. The beautiful, perfect, almost airy clean rose of Rose Perfection is said to be a blend of different matching notes from destilations of different types of roses. A slight musky base supports and highlights the rosy perfection.
Rose Perfection is perfect for summer, capable to manage even a warm day as it has a great longevity (24h) and stays lightly on my skin also after the morningshower. The sillage is medium and it blooms beautiful a summerday. I'm also convinced that Rose Perfection will do well also during the colder month especially as the rose has a soft, almost velvet character and not the lighter texture of rosewater.
To me Rose Perfection is the rose equivalent to Robert Piguets beautiful interpretation of orangeblossom Blossom and just as the latter, highly addictive. Both fragrances are bright, happy, sparkling and in the same time comfortable, relaxing and real pleasure to wear. Just perfect!
Rating: 5
Notes: Citrus, rose, floral notes, musk
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