Annick Goutal - Les Absolus Ambre Sauvage

Picture: Painting of a family game of checkers
("jeu des dames"), ca 1803
Painting by Louis-Léopold Boilly (1761-1845)

Ambre Sauvage is featuring another staple in perfumery: Amber. Ambre Sauvage is created by Camille Goutal and perfumer Isabelle Doyen.

Ambre Sauvage starts with a soft and smooth amber note, the amber is nor herbal, nor dry gunpowdery, nor candy sweet, just light, refined like a mediumbrown colored silkveil fluttering in the wind. There are no sharp, rough edges of the resins in Ambre Sauvage, it's a balsamic interpretation mixed with the glazed vanilla of Vanille Charnelle. For a short while I can also feel a light, almost salty vibe. As Ambre Sauvage dries down an offsetting slight cold accord with a just detectable iris/lavender appears, balancing the warmth of the amber. A refined, dry and dark patchouli creates a beautiful dept to the perfume. Ambre Sauvage is very well balanced and blended in a way which makes it hard to distinguies the different ingredients, they are just swirling in a comforting, quality flow. Compared to the earlier Annick Goutal amber, Ambre Fetiche, Ambre Sauvage is quiet and soft, Ambre Fetiche is relatively loud and powerful compared to Ambre Sauvage and Ambre Fetiche contains a  considerable amount of incense.

Picture: Ambre Sauvage
Photo: PR Annick Goutal (c)

Ambre Sauvage is a calming fragrance, a fragrance which feels classic in style and apperance. When wearing it I can imagine ladies from the Empire wafting this type of fragrance when moving in their cashmere stoles. Ambre Sauvage is maybe not the right name to this gentle and refined amber as it is not wild at all, on the contrary it's very polished, soft and elegant.

Ambre Sauvage is an excellent comfort fragrance for autumn and winter. It's softspoken and could not offend anyone. Sillage is close and longevity for more than a day. Unisex but leaning to the feminine side.

Even if not smelling the same I think those who likes ambers as the more boozy Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe, the more woody-spicy Téo Cabanel Barkhane and the a tad sweeter Rania J. Ambre Loup will also appreciate Ambre Sauvage.

Rating: 5

Notes: Patchouli, amber; pink pepper, lavender, iris, vanilla 

Annick Goutal - Les Absolus Vanille Charnelle

Picture: Le Bain
Painting by Alfred Stevens (1823-1906)

Vanille Charnelle is the first one I test from the 2015 introduced Annick Goutal sub-line: Les Absolus. In Les Absolus house perfumer Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal "listen to the whispers of their rawmaterials" and creating exclusive fragrances of the best ingredients which are highligthing one rawmaterial at a time. In this case: Vanilla. In coming reviws amber and oud are featured.

Vanille Charnelle starts with a clean, vanillapod note combined with a milky impression, the marketing buzz says: "Imagine a bath of almond milk laced with vanilla beans in which you want to immerse yourself before meeting your lover". There is no chemical-sweet vanilla like in some cheaper fragrances, this smells like high quality stuff. A hint of a well intergrated pepper soon appears and also a soft, very light hint of flowers. The flowery element is just perceptible, it is not as pronounced as in another clean and bright vanilla also from 2015, Eau d'Italie Morn to Dusk. Just as in the latter, there is no boozy, tobbacco or spicy notes in Vanille Charnelle even if it in the next step of its developement becomes gourmand in its character.  Vanille Charnelle than smells like a fine, delicious, glazed vanilla cake, and just as in the earlier stage without smudgy or cloying elements.Just as Morn to Dusk, Vanille Charnelle is a fragrance in the higher octaves of the olfactory notescale. Even in the basenotes Vanille Charnelle retains its sort of light impression, still gourmand and with a musky touch cleaverly counterbalanced by an almost undetectable vetiver, it's just discerned.

Picture: Les Absolus Vanille Charnelle
Photo: PR Annick Goutal (c)

It seems as there  currently is a trend with a sort of fluffy, clean and pristine vanillas which are very comfortable to wear, so far I have tested Vanille Charnelle and Morn to Dusk and I am convinced there already are or will be more fragrances released in this style.Vanille Charnelle has very little in common with the earlier Annick Goutal vanilla Vanille Exquise which is (as I remember it) sharper, greener, fizzy and more distinctive compared to Vanille Charnelle.

Vanille Charnelle is cozy and comforting to wear in the dark seasons and could also be appropriate for cold and rainy summerdays. Labeled as unisex but I find it more feminine. The silage is close, a skinscent, with longevity for a day. Summed up Vanille Charnelle is a very well balanced, skillful crafted fragrance which, not surprisingly, is also priced thereafter. 

Rating: 4

Notes: Ylang-ylang, mandel, pepper, vanilla, tonka bean, white musk, vetiver

UNUM - Opus 1144

Picture: Central tympanum, the Western (Royal) Portal at cathedral of Chartres (ca 1145). These architectural statues are the earliest Gothic sculptures and
were a revolution in style and the model for a generation of sculptors.
Photo: Cancre (cc) some rights reserved, Wikimedia commons

Opus 1144 is the second fragrance from the Italian nichhouse UNUM. Opus 1144 is inspired from the gotic era which was started approximately 1144. The fragrance is inspired from the stone in the cathedrals and the grey skies of Normandy, a birthplace for the Gotic style and culture.Just as with LAVS, Opus 1144 is created by Filippo Sorcinelli with help form the secret parfumer.

Starts like a natural lemony (not chemical lemon pledge) contemporary Shalimar without the animalic notes in the original one and less vanillic then the "Route" Shalimars-line. In the Opus 1144 middlenotes the powder intesifies and becomes deeper, a sort of wet, chalky, putty powder. Now the vanilla also intensifies, probably because a clear musky note, complementing the discrete, cold flowers which are also present. In this stage Opus 1144 reminds me of a more vanillic and less flowery Oriza L. Legrand  Jardins D'Armide .  Also the oriental vanilla Kèora from Jean Couturier comes to my mind. As Opus 1144 dries further down it becomes darker, deeper, balsamic, resin and ambery now with slight salty, animalic notes from the ambregris. Tanken as a whole Opus 1144 is quite linear even if the fragrance changes to deeper nuances as it dries down.

Picture: Unum Opus 1144
Photo: PR Unum (c)

Even if classified as unisex, Opus 1144 to my nose is very feminine, like a fluffy angorajumper. Unfortunately, Opus 1144 doesn't remind me of medival times at all, to me it's more of a fragrance for a very feminine and elegant lady. The concept is not new, this is a classical fragrance directly in the footsteps of Shalimar. Opus 1144 powdery elegance is combined with a certain cosy comfort. It's perfect for autumn and winter, could be worn during the day but most people would classify it as an evening perfume. Sillage is medium+ and longevity overnight, a cosy, lemony, powdery, vanillc accord remains after 24 h. This is strong stuff (perfume strength) and one has to apply sparingly.

Those who like powdery fragrances as Huitème Art Poudre de Riz which is less sweet than Opus 1144 as also deep, woody vanillas like Montale  Boisé Vanille will probably also like Opus 1144.

Rating: 4

Notes: Jasmin, mandarin, elemi, bergamot, iris, orchid, cashmere wood, musk, ambregris, vanilla, benzoin, leather, sandalwood

Les Cocottes de Paris - La Castiglione

Picture: Virginia Oldoini
Countess of Castiglione (1837-1899)
Photo from 1865, Wikimedia commons

La Castiglione from Les Cocottes de Paris is inspired from Virginia Oldoini an italian Countess of Castiglione, who was an influential mistress of Emperor Napoleon III. She also supported the art of photography and ordered pictures to immortalizing important phases of her life and became a famous model in early photography. According to the legend, La Castiglione during the last years of her life, lived in a totally blacked apartment without mirrors in the Place Vendome. She refused to be remembered of her bygone beauty and she was just going out when it was dark outside.

The fragrance La Castglione is probably inspired from the later, dark years. It starts interesting, with an accord of pickled citron and the smell from an old attic, the old attic smell is a lighter and not as distinct as the in Parfumerie Générale L'Ombre Fauve. As L'Ombre Fauve is one of my all time favorites, this is a positive remark. Then other dark notes as a soggy patchouli and a well balanced liquorice steps forward founded in woody balsamic notes. Myrrh adds a cold and uplifting counterbalance to the dark and deep mix. There are also herbal elements that brightens which prevent the fragrance from beeing dusty and stuffy. In the basenotes La Castglione reminds me in spirit and appearance of Gucci by Gucci Edp

Picture: La Castiglione
Photo: PR Les Cocottes de Paris (c)

La Castiglione is a fragrance for autumn/winter good for evenings but also as a mysterious daytimefragrance. Sillage is close and longevity for a day. La Castiglione is definitly my favorite of the Cocottes.

Rating: 4

Notes: Mugwort, citron, copaiba, liquorice, patchouli, cedar, ambergris, myrrh, styrax

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to try.

Les Cocottes de Paris - Melle Cléo

Picture: Cleo de Merode (1874-1966)
Photo: Unknown photographer 1903
Wikimedia commons

Melle Cléo is the last in the trio of courtesans in the Les Cocottes de Paris line. The fragrance is inspired from Cleopatra de Mérode a famous ballet dancer in the Paris Opera who was linked to the king of Belgium, Leopold II. Cléo was also a trendsetter and considered as the most beautiful women in the world during the latest years of the 19th century.

Melle Cléo starts very sweet, it smells like a jammy rose together with a fresh, just baked, vanilla bread which is wrapped in a white, crispy, cotton kitchen towel. After a while a the juicy note of litchi arrives and adds a fruity vibe to the fragrance as also sweet flowers. The rare perfumenote of night blooming cersus which (according to Fragranticas database of notes) is a  tropical cactus plant with flowers which smell like vanilla, is probably responsible for the special smelling vanillic accord in Melle Cléo. Probably the cotton flower also is responsible for the fabric texture mentioned above. In the basenotes, Melle Cléo becomes less sweet, even if still almost edible. The just baked bread texture returns in the musky basenotes. There is also something that similar to a lighter version of the blurred biscuitnote which is a present undertone in some flower fragrances from ca 2006 such as Burberry London for her and Agent Provocateur Maitresse. As the basenotes dries down, Mello Cléo smells almost the same but an octave darker, it's also a note that is close to light fresh tobacco present in the late stage of the fragrance.

Picture: Melle Cléo
Photo: PR Les Cocottes de Paris (c)

The notelist of Melle Cléo truly mirrors how the fragrance really smells which is not very  common. Melle Cléo could by the first glimpse be taken as a mainstream, sweet, fruity floral but when sniffing it thoroughly the very special notes described above comes through, announcing that Melle Cléo is a very special creature after all.

Melle Cléo is appropriate year around and I can imagine it will bloom beautifully during warm, humid summerevenings. Sillage is medium and longevity very good, it lasts for longer than a day.

Those who likes fruity floral fragances as for example Eau d'Italie Graine de Joie and Robert Piguet Jeunesse will probably also like Melle Cléo.

Rating: 3

Notes: Rosewood, bergamot, litchee, night blooming cereus, ylang-ylang, rose, cotton flower, lichen

Les Cocottes de Paris - La Belle Otero

Picture: Agustina Otero Iglesias (1868-1965)
"La Belle Otero"
Photo: PR Les Cocottes de Paris (c)

Les Cocottes de Paris is a brand started by Anaïs Biguine who also started the Jardins d'Ecrivains brand, inspired by litterature and gardens, some years ago. In the new brand, the inspiration comes from some famous nineteenth century courtesans who were active in the french capital. La Belle Otero is the first of three fragrances to be tested, inspired of a spanish artist, Agustina Otero Iglesias, who is said to have "devoted her life to dancing, men, precious stones, gambling, parties and all above freedom". The fragrance is said to be an invitation to misbehave and I can agree with that when testing La Belle Otero.

La Belle Otero starts sharp, fruity, boozy, chemical, almost as something that could be a sweet fruity floral celebrity fragrance but less sugary. Than the fragrance becomes more flowery, the violet accentuated by a crispy narcissus takes the center. There is almost a lipsticknote present but without the characteristic powdery-creamy smell that is the lipstick standard. The fruity note is still present in the basenotes, balanced by sandalwood and with musk which reinforces the blend. There is something vaugly dirty and decadant glimpsing through the floral-fruity facade, like dirty underwear hiding under a brand new amazing haute couture gown.

Picture: La Belle Otero
Photo: PR Les Cocottes de Paris (c)

Strong syntetical violet and narcissus over a light sandalwood infused by fizzy. musky, fruity elements is the synthesis of La Belle Otero. It's a demanding fragrance with rough edeges but in the same time a somehow pleasant fragrance to wear. It's a dangeroues fruity floral, something dark and beastly are lurking in the background. I think the syntetic smell is a bit too much in La Belle Otero but leaving that a aside, this is a intriguing and in the same time happy and taken as a whole, nice to wear fragrance.

Those who likes fragrances as Rober Piguet Jeunesse, Eau d'Italie Graine de Joie, Parfums MDCI Cio Cio San and By Kilian Playing with the Devil (which is much darker) could probably appreciate La Belle Otero.

Rating: 3

Notes: Neroli, pepper, absinthe, ginger, fig, violet, musk, lavender, narcissus, buchu, lavender, iris, frankincense, sandalwood 

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Huitème Art - Shermine

Picture: Greta Garbo as Ivana Ivanova
in a gigantic foxfur in the 1930s movie
The Battle for House Burlesque
Sourse: Furglam.com

Shermine is the latest launch from the Pierre Guillaume subline Huitième Art. Perfumer is as always Pierre himself.

Shermine starts citric with a distinct element of the typical carrot irisnnote, which highlights the roty aspect of iris. Cold, spicy, herbal notes which are somehow enveloped in a warm, furry, setting, soon appears. The citric accord remains during the whole dry down but deepens, in an accord reminding of pickled lemons. The lavender which appears as a flowery element interacting with the cold iris, is concentrated and clean but not bright,. it's not as herbal or sharp that mostly is the case with lavender. Shermine in this part reminds me in style and apperance with Houbignant Iris de Champs. I don't know what the magic mix is which creates the furry, slight animalic impression, no animalic notes are mentioned in the notelist. Only the olfactory magican Pierre Guillaume knows. There is also a touch of a gourmand in Shermine but not as much as in the fruity lavender Vero Profumo Kiki.The base of Shermine is clearly woody-musky at the beginning, then it transforms to be sweeter and with a more powdery texture. Just as Kiki, Shermine is an intriguing and also slight demanding fragrance to wear. It never becomes boring and it's a pleasure to be wrapped in, one can imagine an exclusive furstole, lined with cool silk and warm fur on the outside.

Picture: Shermine, the picture tells all about its appearance.
Photo: PR Huitème Art (c)

Even if retro in style, Shermine is sort of a 2015s version of the legendary fougère Guerlain Jicky. Shermine hasn't almost any similarities, expect the lavender, with for example Serge Lutens Gris Clair which  features incense and is overall more contemporary in style.

Despite containing fougère accords, lavender and woods, I find Shermine quite feminine, maybe the furry and slight gourmand accord is responsible for that. Shermine is suitable for the colder months or as a evening fragrance. The silage is medium and longevity more then a day.

Shermine is definitly another winner from Pierre Guillaume, one of the very best releases in last year.

Rating: 5

Notes: Pepper, lemon, cardamom, rosewood, iris, lavender, vanilla, musk, vetiver, patchouli, guaiac wood.

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Best of 2015

Picture: Lily of the valley
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Last day of 2015 and I don't feel entitled to write this post as I havn't tested a fraction of the many fragrances released this year. I'm also aware of some samples *) of untested 2015s from which I know there will be some I'll like very much.

Regardless my limited testing of 2015 releases, this post optimally should be written in March/April 2016 to catch up, there was a battle between flowers. The winner is Puredistance White with Téo Cabanel Lace Garden as a close contender. White is not only a beautiful, well crafted, high quality fragrance, it's also a very happy fragrance, versatile, elegant and in the same time comforting, easy to wear. A staple for everyday life, as a concept reminding of the also very versatile Jour d'Hermès. Lace Garden is the white floral going contemporary, also happy and elegant, easy to wear but less formal, more casual than White.

Honorable mentions to the lovely, lush, fruity, airy floral Cio Cio San  from Parfums MDCI and in the same vein but a bit spicier; Neela Vermiere Creations Pichola, the creamy non oud - oud 1001 Ouds from Annick Goutal, the spectacular, almost gormand, citric, furry lavender Shermine from Huitème Art and last but not least the cosy, fluffy, lily of the valley vanilla Eau d'Italie Morn to Dusk.

Among designerfragrances releases Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Bleu is the winner in my book. I also like Narciso Rodriguez Narciso Edt and Gucci Bamboo. Havn't smelled the praised Alaïa from Alaïa nor Equipage Geranium by Hermès.

A house I started to explore in 2015 was the (relatively) priceworthy, quality nichehouse Perris Monte Carlo. Their Edp:s are great and now I have just started to explore their wonderful Extraits, released in 2015. So Perris is my house of the year, even if in the fragrance business for decades.

*) Still untested 2015's which I suspect I'll like much are: Cuir L'Aigle Russe from Oriza L.Legrand, UNUM Rosa Nigra and Jehanne Rigaud Imperial Poudré. And I definitly must get my nose on Parfums MDCI Les Indes Galantes a late 2015 release.

Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 - Short impressions

Stéphane Humbert Lucas the perfumer of many of the Nez a Nez and SoOud fragranes also has his own line named Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777. The "7:s" comes from his lucky number. The perfumes are oriental in style, high class ingredients are used and it seems that the market of the Middle East is the main target. Below my impressions from testing some samples of the earlier releases from the line.

Picture: Khôl de Bahreïn
Photo: PR Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 (c)

Khôhl de Bahreïn: Dominated by a dry, gunpowder note in the same style (but darker) as the same note in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Ambre. The cumminlike note in the top is dry, smooth and very well balanced against a very dark mystic violet. The dark, powdery violet theme reminds me of a drier version of Terry de Gunzburg  Ombre Mercure. 

Picture: Oumma
Photo: PR Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 (c)

Oumma: The smell of the finsest and softest  first class leather gloves, infused with very smooth and discrete roses and balsamic notes. The woody notes are almost creamy, even the oud is smooth, there are no sharp edges at all. Pure class and sophistication which has to be be experienced. But unfortunately, the perfection of Oumma is also reflected in the price: EUR 395 for 50 ml, sigh :-(

Picture: Rose de Petra
Photo: PR Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 (c)

Rose de Petra: A soft, high quality, dark, soft spicy rose. It somehow resembles Histoires de Parfums 1876 Mata Hari but in a darker, more oriental way. It's also more quiet in apperance and lacks the slight gourmand "cakenote" that is present in Mata Hari. Unfortunately RdP has too short longevity, it doesn't last as long as required form my high standards (and the price), ie for a day.

Picture: Black Gemstone
Photo: PR Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 (c)

Black Gemstone: Wearing this I come to think of MDCI Cuir Garamante drier and Puredistance Black which is sweeter and more feminine. Black Gemstone is one of the woody-boozy-leathery fragrances with a dark depth. A good fragrance but personally I prefer Black, Black Gemstone is more masculine.

Picture: Soleil de Jeddah
Photo: PR Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 (c)  

Soleil de Jeddah:  A strange fragrance, starts interesting with yellow flowers as mimosa and chamomille but when developed to the middle notes, a leathery, smoky, tarry, burned meat accord a la Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Cuir appears but not as skillfull handled as in Cuir. Until today, what I have sniffed from this accord/note it is successful interpreted just in MdO Cuir. In Soleil de Jeddah the unbalanced sweet flowers and the burned meat/leather simply is too much.

To sum up my impressions of the Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777-line so far: An interesting line well worth testing even if uneven in how they fits me. Some mixes very well with my skinchemistry and lasts for at least a day, other is just "meh" and too short longevity and the Jeddah is a small disaster on my skin.

The scent for Christmas Eve 2015

Picture: It's almost the same temprature (+6 C)
this Christmas Eve as Midsummer Eve 2015 (+10 C).
Therefore this lush summer rose is illustrating this post.
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Once again time for the regular Christmas Eve post:. Scent of Christmas Eve 2015 is a stunning rose - Rose de Taif Extrait by Perris Monte Carlo. This is a high quality fragrance as also the Rose de Taif Edp.

Suits this green, warm Christmas Eve with some sun outside. This beautiful rose is enlightened by subtle spices and a smooth rubbery note from the roseoil. It's just delightful, a sort of thicker and stronger variation of the Edp version. Wearing it feels like rolling around in fresh, just harvested, medium pink rosepetals a warm and sunny day. 

Mr Parfumistas SOTD is Santos de Cartier vintage version, suits well with its spicy, leathery accords.     Last year, also a green Christmas, he wore the same fragrance. Wearing this classic is a recurring habit for Mr Parfumista for Christmas Eves as it has happened for several times.
Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn the last twelve Christmas Eves:

2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote)
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy)
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)

I wish all of you a Great Christmas! As I'm very curious to know what you are wearing for Christmas, feel free to leave a comment.

Perris Monte Carlo - Essence de Patchouli

Picture: Moon over the Mediterranean sea  (Greece)
Photo: Mr Parfumista

Essence de Patchouli is the first patchouli fragrance in the Perris Monte Carlo line. Essence de Patchouli is one of the five first fragrances which were released in 2012, the other four starters are Bois d'Oud (reviewed a few weeks ago), Oud Imperial, Ambre Gris and Musk Extrême. In 2014 a second patchouli fragrance was released, Patchouli Nosy Be which I have not smelled when writing this review but plan to test and review the coming winter. Update March 2016 - review of Patchouli Nosy Be.

Essence de Patchouli starts with a very dark, balck or dark purple if imagine a color, velvety patchouli which is silky in texture. There are also some offsetting almost "ugly" notes that could be associated with mosquito repellent but in a non sharp, again velvety texture. The repellent accord steps backward as Essence de Patchouli dries down but is present in the background to prevent the fragrance to be too polite. The patchouli in this fragrance is not of the ambery type nor the herbal, which are the two cathegories that constitutes 90% of all patchfrags. The patchouli of Essence de Patchouli is instead as the patchouli leaves have been pickled in a musky, dark flowery a tad sweet souse. As Essence de Patchouli dries further down, the dark iris/rose combo becomes more apparent even if they are intergrated to such extent that they are hard to separate from each other. The sliky, light powdery patchouli impression prevail and the powdery note reminds me slightly of the cocapowdernote of Mon Patchouly from Ramon Monegal which is also a patchouli fragrance which is not ambery nor herbal but almost gourmand, which Essence de Patchouli is not. As with some other Perris Fragrances, Essence de Patchouli is grounded in a beautiful, either not chemical nor animalic smelling musk. The musk creates an intense, long-lived fragrance and it pronounces and highlights the other ingredients. Woody notes warmed up with a light touch of resin deepens the fragrance.

Essence de Patchouli mediates the picture and feeling of dining outside on a terrace by the sea a warm mediterranean summereveing with the dark velvettextured sky dark lighted by the silver full moon.
In darkness, texture, mood and apperance Essence de Patchouli reminds me of a forgotten gem which is based on a completely different note (incense) Juozas Statkevicius/Josef Statkus from the designer of the same name.

Picture: Essence de Patchouli
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Essence de Patchouli is appropriate to wear in most seasons, in summer one has to be extra careful when applying, a little goes ong and too much could be totally overwhelming especially when warm weather outside. To me Essence de Patchouli is a feminine creation even if it definitly could be worn by brave men. The silage is moderate to big and longevity for 24h.

Essence de Patchouli is another winner from Perris Monte Carlo, it's not happen often that the releases from house have a hit rate like this house when it comes to fragrances that I think is memorable and longing to wear even after the tests for the review is over.

Those who like Sergel Lutens Borneo 1834, Chanel Coromandel  and Prada Intense will probably also appreciate Essence de Patchouli even if the former three are more gourmand and the latter more floral in style.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, geranium, iris, cedar, guaiac wood, patchouli, musk, labdanum, coumarin

UNUM - LAVS

Picture: A swedish fir in the middle of the long, cold winter
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

LAVS is the first fragrance from the House of UNUM. The house started as an atellier for constructing, maintaining and taking care of  liturgical vestments. The Vatican is an important cuetomer and LAVS has a fascinating backgrund. It started as a roomfragrance which is used in the atelliers and also to scent the robes and vestments when packaged for delivery. The wearer of LAVS in other words has the same olfactory aura around as the Pope himself, at least when he wears his UNUM vestments :-) . The creative director and spirit of UNUM is Filippo Sorcinelli which has many artistic skills, for example he is an a church organist and also expriments with painting. His businesspartner Marcello is a tailor who seeks perfection in the creative process creating the UNUM coustumes. More about the backgorund and inspiration of UNUM look here.

The perfumer is a person very close to UNUM’S world who prefers remain hidden, he translates in fragrances the emotions and the ideas of the creative director.

LAVS opens spectacular with an accord containing fresh and brisk birchtar, a very thick and dense, almost honeyed incense and a rubbery note close to fresh, new, tires. There is also a light, smokey note, like smoke from a campfire made of dry pinewood a cold winterdaym with high, dry air in the coniferous forest. The impression is somehow clean, outdoorsy despite the thick notes. After a while a fresh (fresh seems to be the common factor here) and soft leathernote appears followed by a metallic note that bridges over to the middlenotes. In the middle- and basenotes, LAVS calms down and connects to the ordinary incensetrack, most close to Comme des Garcons Avignon and Montale Full Incense, minus the aldehydes of the latter, but also with traces form other Commes des Garcons incenses such as the cold pine in Kyoto and the note similar to a textile band-aid from Jaisalmer. The putty, almost powdery texture in the basenotes reminds me also of Making of Cannes Rocher Princier.

Picture: The stylish bottle of LAVS
Photo: PR UNUM (c)

Not as churchy as Avignon, LAVS has more of a cold, outdoorsy aura. My sons reaction was "It smells like Finland" probably the birchtar, the smokey, sauna like notes as also the cold, airy vibes of LAVS evokes the association of our beautiful neighboring country. Robert Piguet Oud also has this cold outdoorsy feeling and even if not containing oud, LAVS has a similarity to RP Oud in its texture and expression.

LAVS is unisex, appropriate for all seasons expect in the warm days in the summer. Longevity is for more than a day, sillage is medium in the first stage, then close to skin, LAVS after all is in perfume strength.

LAVS starts incredible, the first on third is the most interesting incensefragrance I've tried so far, (and I have tested many :-). From the middlenotes to the base, LAVS to some extent "dissapoints" in the way that it doesn't live up to the extraordinary first part. But LAVS anyway, even if the originality has disappered, is a very good high quality incensefragrance also in the later stages. As I'm sick and tired of fragrances that starts exciting and then morphs into something common that I've smelled so many times before, LAVS shouldn't deserve  the highest rating. But in this case the first part is so spectacular and the rest just as good as for example Avignon (which is a favorite of mine) and therefore LAVS gets

Rating: 5

Notes: Jasmine, cardamon, black pepper, elemi, coriander, clovs, labdanum, opoponax, palisander, amber, oakmoss, tonka been

Fragrances for Christmas 2015 2(2) - Nichefragrances

In the second post about fragrances which could attract especially in Christmastime some appropriate gems from the niche segment will be commented.

Picture: Un Crime Exotique
Photo: PR Parfumerie Générale (c)

Un Crime Exotique (Parfumerie Générale): This is similar to the traditional sweet mulled wine called Glögg which swedes are drinking the in Advent and during the Christmas holiday. Un Crime Exotique is not as sweet as Glögg, the fragrance smells like Glögg mixed with an refreshing the like for example Oolong.

Picture: Loretta
Photo: PR Tableau de Parfums (c)

Loretta (Tableau de Parfums): A dark fruity, spicy, slight dirty, animalic tuberose which compared to for example Marc Jacobs Decadence really is decadent. A fragrance in the classic dark, style of Rochas Femme. One of Andy Tauers best fragrances IMO.

Picture: Mon Numero 10
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

Mon Numero 10 (L'Artisan Parfumeur): This one is a sort of merged fragrance with traces from Christmas appropriate classics as Fendi (original), Coco (Chanel) and also Un Crime Exotique (above) + some incense. Embracing and comforting to wear in cold and grey weather.

Picture: M.O.U.S.S.E
Photo: PR Oliver & Co (c)

M.O.U.S.S.E (Oliver & Co): This is the most similar fragrance to mimic real clove that I've tested so far. A sort of fresh, airy but in the same time intense, almost cold, spicy fragrance. Some incense also seems to be involved in a supporting role.

Picture: Wazamba (new bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Wazamba (Parfum d'Empire): A warm, a bit sweet and spicy incense, not the traditional cold, midnight mass churchy type as Comme des Garcons Avignon which is also a beautiful fragrance suitable for Christmas.

Fragrances for Christmas 2015 1(2) - Designerfragrances/classics

Christmas is upcoming, in a few weeks it's here. Up here in the north the temprature is mild for the season about 6-8 C, and the residues of two storms namend "Gorm" and "Helga" makes it windy outside. Maybe because of this my inspiration is not on top when it comes to Christmasoriented fragrances, anyway here is an attempt when it comes to the designerfragrance/classic category ie the ones that are fairly available in departmentstores, parfumeries and on line. In the next post (on Thursday) there will be some suitable fragrances from the nichesector.

Picture: Burberry London Men
Photo: PR Burberry (c)

Burberry London Men: This is an underappreciated dark gem, with a subdued dark, velvety red sparkle. Highlights warm tobacco and boozy, woody, slight spicy and leathery notes. Very comforting like sipping brandy by the fireplace one of the Christmas evenings. If released today Burberry London probably would appear in niche.

Picture: Opium
Photo: PR Yves Saint Laurent (c)

Opium (Yves Saint Laurent): I like both the vintage and the current very much. The current version is more woody and with less carnation and I think its a good reworking of the original. Warm, thick, woody, spicy and dark flowery Opium is a winner for cold and grey days and dark evenings.

Picture: Decadance
Photo: PR Marc Jacobs (c)

Decadance (Marc Jacobs): This plummy, ambery dark woody floral fragrance is to me somehow the 2010s decade interpretation of 1985 Dior Poison. Thirty years later, Decadance intermediate the same feeling in a contemporary setting.

Picture: Dioressence
Photo: PR Christian Dior (c)

Dioressence (Christian Dior): Like sparkling rosewood with green and spicy elements, especially cinnamon over a base with both balsamic and mossy elements. A classic especially suitable for daytime during Christmas.

Picture: Chanel No 19 Edp
Photo: PR Chanel (c)

No 19 EDP (Chanel): The Edp version of the green, galbanumladen Edt higlights more of the flowery elements. There is a cool, fresh mix of itis and rose resembling a crispy hyacinth  over a green mossy light leathery base. Refreshing stuff relatively the heavy scents of Christmas.

By Kilian - Voulez-vous coucher avec Moi ?

Picture: Volez-vous coucher avec Moi? - The Perfume
Photo: PR By Kilian (c)

Voulez-vous coucher avec Moi? (VvcaM?) the latest By Kilian for the new sub line (A Night) In the Garden of Good and Evil, "which draws inspiration from dark nights and exciting game of seduction".The fragrance is created by perfumer Alberto Morillas and described as a gardenia centered perfume over a smooth sandalwood.

VvcaM? starts light flowery, and is a bit tart. The flowers are white with shades of purple, the petals are cold and crispy. The first fragrance I come to think of when testing VvcaM? is Lanvin Eclat d'Arpege even if that one has a lilac themre. A light, smooth, woody accord balances the flower and as also a discrete almost fluffy vanilla. The vanilla is the earlier stages is of the down light, angelic kind as in Eau d'Italie Morn to Dusk but not at all as present as in the latter. In the basenotes the vanilla is combined with cedarwood.and I can trace similarities with the base of Chanel Allure Edp. These darker nuances creates dept and character to the fragrance. VvcaM? is not especially sweet and it's also not powdery. It's a fine, clean (but not at all chemical clean) unobtrusive floral which, has little in common with the daring name of the creation. Maybe Kilian follows in the fotsteps of the latest Serge Lutens fragrances with challening namnes which are more or less the opposite to the real impression from the fragrance. Speaking of Lutens, VvcaM? has similarities to Serge Lutens La Religieuse in its smooth, dark, discrete, flowery image.

Picture: Volez-vous coucher avec Moi? - The clutch
Photo: PR By Kilian (c)

VvcaM? is quite linear even if it gets darker and even if not exactly warm it's absolutely no longer cold in the basenotes. It's a very pleasant, sort of calming fragrance to wear, nothing loud, shrilly or extreme. The more I wear VvcaM?, the more I like it. Just as with La Religiuese this is a fragrance which doesn't unfolds directly, one has to be patient to tune in with this one. A contemporary, floral classic which IMO is very feminine in style.

VvcaM? despite its elegant aura, is easy and comforting to wear. It could be worn anytime of the year and for most occassions except for exercise and similar activites. Sillage is close and longevity almost for a day.

Those who appreciate Puredistance Opardu, even if that one is a bit powdery and with a lilac note, as also Ann Gerard Perle de Mousse with its almost shadowy impression with tart and moisty notes

Rating: 4

Notes: Neroli, gardenia, tuberose, ylang ylang, petalia, rose, sandalwood, cedarwood,  vanilla

Jul et Mad - Les White - Nin-Shar, Néa & Garuda

Les White is a separate collection of three oriental inspiered Extraits de parfum from Jul et Mad. Nin-Shar is created by Sidonie Lancesseur, Néa and Garuda by Luca Maffei. 

Picture: Nin-Shar
Photo: PR Jul et Mad (c)

Nin-Shar starts fruity-rosy with boozy elements. Soon woody, balsamic, incense notes joins where a wellbalanced oud and most of all, a distinct note of nagarmotha is present. As the boozy note steps back, the rose becomes sweeter and jammy. The nagarmotha accord softens in the basenote but taken as a whole, this together with the fruity, later jammy rose is the lasting impression of Nin-Shar. To me Nin-Shar is very close to a sweeter, fruitier version of the beautiful L'eau de Mumtaz i Mahal by Maison Nicolas de Barry which I personally slightly prefer. Nin-Shar is reported to be the bestseller in the trio.

Picture: Néa
Photo: PR Jul et Mad (c)

Néa Oriental-fruity-gourmand, the fruit in the heavy oriental style with  boozy dates, ripe peach, mango but also berries. Green notes balances the fruit as also a beautiful rose. The basenotes with resins, balsamic notes and musk creates a dept to the perfume. Even if intense with many powerful ingredients I percieve Néa as a perfume in the higher ocataves in the notescale. Néa is not at all cloying or heavy to wear, it is sparkling in some passages of its development, sometimes some green fizz break through with a note that smells something that I can imagine fresh harvested cardamom smells like. There is nothing chemical or sickenly sweet to Néa. it's a delicious pleasure to wear, comforting and relaxing. For those who likes the style of Eau d'Italie Graine de Joie and By Kilian Playing with the Devil.

Picture: Garuda
Photo: PR Jul et Mad (c)

Garuda Light fruity/nutty accentuated of a light smokey oud-wood with some behaved barnyard elements glimpsing through. The oudy - woody note is high and bright in the octaves compared with for example Perris Monte Carlo Bois d'Oud and Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud. This accord gets more woody in general and less oudy as Garuda developes. There are also a herbal. minty element that sparkels and adds almost a freshenss to the fragrance. I suspect there is also sandalwood involved, probably the warm, nutty elements comes from there. In the basenotes there is also a tangy, floral alomst mossy quality which has a resemblance to a green classical chypre accord but with a soapy twist. Garuda with its compexity and different faces is my favorite from the line.

Les White are perfect fragrances for the colder months, they envelope the wearer in warmth and smells delightful. Their style is ornamental, warm, golden and all will fit perfectly for the coming Christmas and New Years Holidays. All three fragrances are of very good quality, with close to medium sillage and good longevity. To my nose predominantly feminine in style.

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the samples to test

Perris Monte Carlo - Rose de Taif

Picture: Rosa Damascena
Photo/author: Kurt Stüber (cc)
Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

Rose de Taif is a classical, intense and beautiful taif rose blend created by the obviously rising star perfumer Luca Maffei for the perfumehouse Perris Monte Carlo. Taif roses are above all damascena roses of different types which are cultivated in the city of Taif in Saudi Arabia, the favorable climate and special soil produces some of the most exclusive roses and thereof also roseoils in the world.

Rose de Taif starts bold with tart, almost medical and very natural smelling rosenotes. The medical smell is not of the oudy character, there is no oud in this creation, but instead of an sort of old fashioned, acied and light spicy character. This vintage feeling reminds me of the cold, anticeptic, light spicy rose of the very beautiful rose of Parfum d'Empire Eau Suave. Just as Eau Suave I imagine the rose in Rose de Taif as velvety pink in color. Where Eau Suave has some fruity elements and coriander Rose de Taif is just soft spicy and there is a clear note of nutmeg coming through.

As Rose de Taif dries down, the tart rose becomes more prominent. The rose smells dry but not dried as in potpourri, it has some light sweetness but absolutely not in the jammy or cosmetic styled way. There is very little of the greenery (leaves and steam) from the rose, Rose de Taif is predominantly about the rose petals even if somehow from the deeper layers of the fragrance, a whisper from the rubbery note of roseoil appears. Also compared to another beautiful blend of taif roses Montale Taif Roses Rose de Taif is about the rose petals wheras Taif Roses also includes the greenery and therefore becomes more sharp and rough in it's appearance. In the basenotes a pleasant musk grounds the whole fragance but there are also light woody elements in the base as also a note or combination of notes that reminds me slight of dark but not smokey tea. Probably the tea impression comes from the rosenote as tea-ish nuances is a part of the great register of roseoil. Even if Rose de Taif darkens a bit in the base, the fragrance is still bright and bold in character.

Picture: The intriguing bottle of Rose de Taif
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Rose de Taif is a classical and strong taif rose blend with many intriguing layers under what in the first impression could appear as a simple rose blend. For me as a roselover, Rose de Taif is one of the absolute best, if not the best tested so far, in the cathegory of natural smelling rosefragrances. It's a real pleasure to wear, suitable for year around, it has a distinct but not obtrusive smell as it attracts compliments. The longevity is great, about 24 hours and it lingers on cloth for days. Unisex IMO even if lending slight to the feminine side. Soon an extrait version of Rose de Taif will be released and concluded from the quality of the Edp version described in this review, the extrait will probably be magnificent.

Rose de Taif could be appreciated by those who likes the lovely blend of different rose types by Annick Goutal, the natural smelling Rose Absolue where Rose Absolue is even more rosesoliflore, without the spicy additions.

Rating: 5

Notes: Nutmeg, lemon, geranium, taif rose, damask rose, musk

Perris Monte Carlo - Bois d'Oud

Picture: Uttewalde Grund
Painting ca 1825 by Caspar David Friedrich (1774-1840)
Wikimedia Commons

Bois d'Oud is a fragrance in the Perris Monte Carlo oud duo, to me it's the more feminine one whereas Oud Imperial is definitly the masculine alternative.

Bois d'Oud starts powerful with a woody, light oudy accord underscored with smokey notes accentuated by a light note almost close to grilled meat or burned leather. This meat/leather note but more distinct is present in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Cuir and to a lesser extent in Amouage Interlude Man where it's matched with a tangy almost rhubarbnote. Further on flowery elements steps forward, the flowers are interwoven with woody elements in an intricate pattern which gives an impression similar to flowery oud, I think it's the cambodian variety. In this stage I recognize the oudy, flowery style of Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud which smells more "vintage/perfumery" (in a positive way). As Bois d'Oud dries further down, the fragrance becomes more woody-spicy and Montale Amber & Spices comes to my mind, later on another Montale shows up the flower-sandalwood Sandalsliver which is brighter, sweeter and is playing in the higher octaves of the notescale. In the basenotes Bois d'Oud reminds me much of a darker, less sweet and more balsamic Sandalsliver with sudden whirls of the smokey notes.

Picture: Bois d'Oud
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Bois d'Oud as a fragrance captures the mystical, dark, forest atmosphere in the Caspar David Friedrich painting above. It's appropriate for dusky autumn and winterdays but it's also developing very well when tested in summertempratures. Bois d'Oud is a strong fragrance, a little will go for long. Longevity is for 24h and sillage is medium or more. Its intensity makes it suitable for a night out. If worn in the office, gently application is recommended.

Rating: 5

Notes: Peach, plum, jasmine, rose, iris, orange blossom, oud, cedar, blackwood, patchouli, vanilla, ambergris, labdanum, musk