Maison Francis Kurkdjian - Masculin Pluriel

Picture: "The Dandy king",
Joachim Murat (1767-1815),  King of Naples etc
Portrait by Francois Gérard (1770-1837)

Masculin Pluriel created by one of my favorite perfumers Francis Kurkdjian for his own house, is the masculine counterpart to one of the very best feminine perfumes of 2014 Féminin Pluriel. Just as the latter, Kurkdjian in Masculin Pluriel interprets a classical theme in a contemporary setting but still retains the timeless expression of the fragrance.

Masculin Pluriel starts with a beautiful note of lavender on a light, woody background. The lavendernote is the featured note during the rest of the dry down and it shows off a bit different at different stages, influenced by the surrounding and supporting notes. Masculin Pluriel is truly aromatic, lighter in the begining and darker in the later stages. The woody notes never get sharp or chemical and interacting with the herbal notes, the fragrance explore both dark and light accords, bitter and even if an overall non-sweet fragrance, there are some sweet elements, I can smell some woody vanilla, the vanillic note coming from wood, in the middle of the fragrance. There is also a very light, smoky element present in the fragrance but it's almost not detectable as smoke, there is absolutely nothing sharp or offending about it. The patchouli in the base are dark and desert-dry, like dried patchoulileaves, no moisty texture but anyway it lends a slight earthy impression to the mix. The patchouli blends perfectly and highlighting the deep and dark facets of the lavender, here the lavender reminds me partly of the lavendernote of Vero Profumo Kiki Extrait. There is something, the bitter, slight smoky impression, in Masculin Pluriel that reminds me of  the new By Kilian "extreme" Smoke for the Soul where Masculin Pluriel is the polished, elegant and wearable one. I read on Fragrantica that the fragrance trend for the coming years are woodsy and piny notes, as for example birch and likely  there is room for woody-aromatic fragrances in this trend which Masculi Pluriel and Smoke for the Soul could be some of the forerunners to. Another fragrance that comes to my mind testing Masculin Pluriel is the classic Aramis Tuscany (vintage) even if that one is bold and big compared to the former.

Picture: Masculin Pluriel
Photo: PR Maison Francis Kurkdjian (c)

Masculin Pluriel is an elegant, understated, very wearable choice for daytime officewear. There is something dandy-ish over the whole composition. The longevity is very good, for over a day and the fragrance is suitable for every season except the warmest summermonths. As Masculin Pluriel is a very well constructed and easy to wear fragrance, it should have been included in my best of 2014 list if I had tested it properly on myself and on Mr Parfumista before year end.

Rating: 5

Notes: Lavender, cedar, patchouli, vetiver, leather, woody notes

Best of 2014

Picture: Grape hyacinths in spring 2014
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Best of 2014 is not an easy post to write (and should not be as long as the perfume industry has not collapsed compleatly :-) as I have tried a bunch of good fragrances released in the market this year. And as usual, I've just tested a fraction of the thousend+ releases on the international market.

Best Feminine:
Vero Profumo Rozy Voile d'Extrait, an retro styled but still contemporary deep, balsamic, oriental rose.
Close contenders: My Burberry and Maison Francis Kurkdjian Féminin Pluriel both contemporary, beutiful floral interpretations by Francis Kurkdjian, the former a  though, urban flower, the latter a contemporary but in the same time timeless flower creation. Le Galion Iris a magnificent, iris-lily dominated floral bouquet, review will follow in January 2015.

Best Masculine:
Le Galion Special for Gentleman, an elegant, retrostyled, very masculine aromatic/chypre.
Close contenders: Oriza L.Legrand Vétiver Royal Bourbon  unisex but leaning IMO to the masculine side. Chalky, brisk, light green vetiver, nautral smelling with some traces of Terre d'Hermes, the chalky tone. By Kilian Smoke for the soul doesn't suit me personally but the fragrance is very original and innovative to be a member of the Kilian line. Therefore it's the stand out in the "The addicted state of mind" trio.

For both:
Serge Lutens L'Orpheline is totally unisex to me, fits equally fits equally well for me as for Mr Parfumista. It's a fragrance that is a growing liking for me. I like it much better worn in colder tempratures than when tested it last summer for the review. A new and appealing interpretation of incense. Frapin Nevermore, this decades interpretation of the iconic dark rose of the 1990s; L'Artisan Voleur de Roses. Nevermore is leaning to the masculine side but I admit I notice a growing appreciation to wear it myself.

Disappointments of the year:
Both are very good fragrances but apparently in practice the don't fit me even if they should, in theory.
Editions Parfums Frederic Malle Eau de Magnolia: Even if a well constructed fragance and probably a hit commercial, it's just too shrill to me, and honestly, to me this fine fragrance is boring in the long run.
Cartier La Panthere: Probably I havn't tested it enough, but even if well constructed etc it doesn't leave a lasting impression, I can't remember at all how it smells.

Wishing you a great New Years Eve and a Happy New 2015!

Maison Nicolas de Barry - L'Eau de Shah Jahan

Picture: Shah Jahan (1592-1666)
Wikimedia commons

Even if it's a true unisex fragrance, it's obvious to me that L'eau de Shah Jahan is cretaed to be the masculine counterpart to the beautiful and bombastic L'eau de Mumtaz i-Mahal which was reviewd earlier in December. Shah Jahan is just as the Mumtaz created by Nicolas de Barry and Eddy Blanchet.

L'eau de Shah Jahan also starts with the rubbery rose oil accord as Mumtaz i-Mahal but less dominating and distinct. Soon fruits pickled in a liqueur-brandy like accord appears, the rose steps backwards but is discretly present in the rest of the dry down. The boozy fruits is the distinguishing theme when Shah Jahan is compared with Mumtaz i-Mahal, both has the same characteristic sandalwood, oud and what I think is the note of nagarmotha as basenotes and "frame". And of course the fragrances should complement each other very close, just as Shah and his favorite wife Mumtaz once did. To me L'eau de Shah Jahan is a true oriental version, at least as I, from my limited experience with the Arabian Oud perfumed oils, imagine true orientals, of the western woody oriental Serge Lutens Boxeuses, which compared with Shah Jahan of course seems almost anorectic, but the pickled fruits and the boozy notes is a common theme. Another western styled woody oriental that comes to my mind when testing Shah Jahan is Parfums Delrae Bois de Paradis.

Picture: The sofisticated bottle of L'Eau de  Shah Jahan
Photo: PR Maison Nicolas de Barry (c)

Shah Jahan has a distinct silage even if not as grand as the rosy Mumtaz i-Mahal. Longevity is just as the latter about 24h and Shah Jahan is also best for festive occasions or in very small doses, also for cold and grey winter days. This is not the fragrance for the workplace with the least tendency to scentophobia.

Rating: 4
This as I prefer the roses of the Mumtaz this one i 5 rated and Shah Jahan 4, but if I had preferred fruits better the rating would be reversed as the fragrances are so similar

Notes: Rose, sandalwood, oud

 As mentioned above I also recognize booze, fruits and nagarmotha


Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to try

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My Christmas Eve fragrance

Picture: A winterrose. Also this year Christamas
is green and some roses are almost blooming.
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Time for the regular Christmas Eve post:. Scent of Christmas Eve 2014 is my favourite iris - Impossible Iris from Ramon Monegal. Suits this green, sunny and, after some rainy weeks, cold Christmas Eve. The chilly iris is enlightened by mimosa and rasberry which gives the formal iris an less severe expression. Mr Parfumistas SOTD is an old Classic, Santos de Cartier vintage version, suits well with its light note of  cinnamon.  Last year, also a green Christmas, was Chypre Mousse from Oriza L.Legrand. 
Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn the last eleven Christmas Eves:

2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy)
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)

I wish all of you a Great Christmas and as I'm very curious to know what you are wearing for Christmas, feel free to leave a comment.
 

Maison Nicolas de Barry - L`eau de Mumtaz-i Mahal

Picture: Empress consort Mumtaz Mahal (1593-1631)
Mughal painting from 17th or 18th Century
Wikimedia commons

L`eau de Mumtaz-i Mahal is a deep, oriental-floral fragrance  created of  Nicolas de Barry and Eddy Blanchet for the perfumehouse of the former, Maison Nicolas de Barry which creates perfumes inspired from the history. Nicolas de Barry has also created the historic inspired line Les Parfums Historiques for Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier George Sand and La Reine Margot, which both also are released in the Maison Nicolas de Barry - line. Later i.e next year I'm planning to review those  (thanks to samples from Fragrance & Art) and compare to the MPG issues.

L`eau de Mumtaz-i Mahal, in the following LMM, is of course dedicated to the cause of the construction of  Tai Mahal - the beloved third wife (the favorite)  of indian ruler Shah Jahan,  Mumtaz Mahal.

LMM, starts with an accord of wonderful, rubbery, roseoil with some light green elements glimpsing through. This is the rubbery rose that is also present in Annick Goutal Rose Splendide but much more rich and dense in LMM and with less of the tart greenery of the Goutal. The rubbery rose is also present in Montale Tai'f Roses but less sweet and sharper. In the Montale I imagine the rose as medium red, in texture as a stiff silk fabric as in a robe form the 14-15th century, in LMM it's medium pink with a silk, velvet finish. As LMM developes a pleasant boozy element appears as also an well integrated spicyaccord. The beautiful blend is anchored in a base of smooth sandalwood which has nothing sharp or chemical about it, it smells like a smooth piece of sandalwood, polished with sandpaper.  I also smell a gentle oud and a note I think is nagarmotha from the base.

LMM has a tickness and dept which are rare in western perfumery today, even the most expensive nichefragrances seems thinned and volatile compared with LMM. LMM has similarities in the style and smell with some oils I have tried from Arabian Oud and also with the very good but not often mentioned Aramis Perfume Calligraphy Rose which is sort of a western styled diet variation of LMM. There is also a kinship in texture and expression with Vero Profumo Rozy Voile d'Extrait.

LMM is a fragrance for the colder months of the year but I can imagine it also blooms beautiful in the indian night. Silage is grand when applied but medium when dried down to the basenotes, longevity for 24h. A very special fragrance, strong and intensive, it has to be applied carefully. Great for festive occasions as for example New Years celebration.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, sandalwood (according to the notelist but I smell att least Spices, boozy notes oud and nagarmotha in the blend)

Le Galion - Special for Gentlemen

Picture: Special for Gentlemen
Photo: PR Le Galion (c)

The venerable perfumehouse of the 1930s-1970s  Le Galion, was brought back to life again  in  2014. The golden days of Le Galion started in 1935 when the already then famous perfumer Paul Vacher bought the house and started to create a range of high class perfumes. Vacher is also the nose of iconic Miss Dior and Diorling for Christian Dior. Tomas Fontaine is the perfumer who has reworked the old Le Galions according to current standards. As I haven't tested any vintages, I can't comment on differences/similarities et but the new versions I've tested so far are great. Over to the object of today: Special for Gentlemen originally released 1947 and was created by Parul Vacher himself.

The fragrance starts in a traditional aromatic way with the most beautiful lemon, yellow, sunny and warm. The lemon is of course supported by aromatic, hebal notes, very fine tuned and smooth in their apperance. In this stage Special reminds me of fragrances as Givenchy Gentleman, Geoffrey  Beene Bowling Green  and Chanel Pour Monsieur. Quite contrary to most aromatic fragrances, there is absolutely no harsh or sharp edges as in Special, it's so well blended and seems to be constructed with very high quality ingredients. Among the herbal-spicy notes a smooth cinnamon is most evident and it's recognizable during the rest of the dry down. When the cinnamon appears I'm reminded of Parfums de Nicolaï  Patchouli Homme a very uncommon patchoulifragrance. After a while also balsamic notes appears, deepens the fragrance and wraps the wearer in a comfortable but still very elegant aura. There are also discrete woody-mossy  notes with a touch of something animalic which anchoring Special in the basenotes. Despite the heavy notes, Special is sort of light in texture  with a very clear presence which is never disturbing. In its later stages, Special reminds me of fragrances as Aramis Tuscany (mens version) and there is also something (but much smoother) from the legandary Guerlain Jicky present.

Special is pure elegance, for the versatile gentleman, a timeless fragrance of high class, both in construction, blending and quality of the ingredients. To me, Sean Connery in the character of 007 James Bond, personifies Special for Gentlemen. It could be worn in many (non-sporting) occasions and Special is demanding in another way: Wearing it always requires a proper outfit for the said occassion, as the whole image of the wearer has to be complete. Special is indeed a very masculine fragrance but the smoothness and balsamic structure oddly enough also make it (almost) wearable for a women.

Special is definitly a must try for those in search for a classical aromatic fragrance. Personally, after trying this, I can't remember me or Mr Parfumista have tried anything better among classical aromatics. Top notch and the best masculine fragrance tested since M.Micallef Royal Vintage spring 2013.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, citron, lavender, cinnamon, amber, labdanum, oakmoss, patchouli, vanilla, castoreum, birch, opoponax

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the (already drained :-( ) sample to try

Oriza L.Legrand - Violette du Czar

Picture: Violette du Czar
Photo: PR Oriza L.Legrand (c)

Violette du Czar is another re-construction of an old formula from the early 20th century released by venerable perfumehouse Oriza L.Legrand, a which was brought back to business a few years ago.

Violette du Czar starts with a true smell of violet, not artifical, candy sweet, but fresh and natural, as the newly sprung flower in the moisty soil a sunny early day in spring. The violet in this stage reminds me of the violet in Annick Goutal La Violette but without any sweetness. After a while the violetnote steps backwards and the smell of hay contrasted with some light stablenotes appears. In this stage one almost belive the violet has surrendered but soon it steps forward once again together with a flowery irisnote, similar but not quite as vivid to the one in Le Galion Iris. There is also a tangy oldschool soapy Accord,as if there are som citric notes as bergamot present. The soap is very light handed, it's just a touch. The basenotes is balsamic, light woody and with a transparent leathernote, like elegant, long, cream-colored glace gloves accompanying a ball gown. There is something in the overall impression in the this stage thar reminds me of Ramón Monegal Impossible Iris even if the latter is sort of denser and stronger in apperance. When it comes to the transparancy and overall impression of the fragrance, it reminds me of  the texure of Jardins d'Ecrivains La Dame aux Camélias whereas the violet is more present in Violette du Czar, in La Dame... the violet is not as prominent, the orangeblossom is the more distinct flower in the latter.

 Violette du Czar is transparent and light fragrance, the notes  (even the dirty one) are carefully handled and there is a compoistion in the higher octaves of the fragrance notescale. It's refreshing and a perfect elegant daytime fragrance particularly for spring but it's suitable for all seasons when one want something light, refreshing and natural smelling, there is no chemical vibes in this Beautiful fragrance. As Violette du Czar is light it demands generous application. The silage is somewhere betweeen close to medim and longevity for about a day.


Rating: 4
Notes: Violetleaf, violet, violet, iris, heliotrope, tolu balm, russian leather, amber, guaiacwood

Fragranceshopping for Christmas (and beyond) 2014

Picture: Julaftonen/Christmas Eve 1904
Watercolor by Carl Larsson (1853-1919)
Wikimedia commons

Soon Christmas is here and hopefully there is some time for perfumetesting during the holidays. Here comes some inspiration when it comes to perfumeshopping not just for the holidays but most of all also in the long term.

• Just as last year: First of all I'll recommend the beautiful perfumes I have tested and reviewed this year. Remember: All are good regardless rating. The rating reflects my personal impression when testing the fragrance, my 3 rated could be your 5.
• From the perfumes reviewed so far 2014, I'm when thinking back most found of: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Féminin Pluriel an eternal beauty, My Burberry from Burberry, a contemporary, urban interpretation of the same theme as Féminin Pluriel. Boucheron Place Vendôme Edp is another mainstream fragrance which, just as My Burberry made an unexpectedly positive impression. Parfumerie Générale Isparta a transparent, purple rose which I think havn't got as much attention as it should have in the blogosphere, Rose Ishtar an intriguing and  unconventional, herbal non-sweet rose, Eau d'Italie Un Bateau pour Capri  contemporary but in the same time retro. When into roses, I'm a roselover after all, Rozy Voile d'Extrait is a beautiful dark, balsamic rose. Another good balsamic fragrance, with winey and myrrh-incense notes which I discovered this year is Olivier Durbano Lapis Philosophorum. The fleeting jasmine-tea of By Kilian Imperial Tea  is another nice finding from 2014 in the lighter fragdivision and so is the new first non-Mona from Mona di Orio, the somehow refreshing and calming Myrrh Casati.
• Lately I've discovered two very good houses, new to my nose, the revived house of  Le Galion and the since many years established Maison Nicolas de Barry. This findings thanks to the sample service from Fragrance & Art, IMO the best retailer in Sweden when it comes to carry a well compsed varity of nichefragrances, many of them very rare. Reviews of fragrances from these lines will start with one from each line before Christmas and further reviewing is planned to the first half of 2015.
• Samples from one of my favorite houses, Oriza L.Legrand just arrived, in a lovely little green retrobox with a motif on the lid inspired from the 1910s. I'll review one of the new ones before Christmas and the other are planned to follow in 2015. Sniffing outside the untested vials, my impression is I'll not be dissapointed. A great Christmas gift is the Oriza sampleset with 7x2ml spray vials of choice for EUR 20.
• Another perfume grabbing my attention at the moment (reviewed early in 2013) is the beautiful cold incense, lily, fir Relique D'Amour from the above mentioned Oriza L.Legrand. The more I try it, the more I like it and now I've drained my first sample and have just one sample left.... A perfume for those who like L'Artisan Passage d'Enfer this is great stuff.
• When it comes to repacking, last year Parfums Annick Goutal was the issue here in the "shopping for Christmas post". This year it's Parfum d'Empire which has changed the bottle design and of course, raised the price. But there are still bargins avaible, Fragrance & Art have some in the old bottle left.
• As a sidenote about the before mentioned Annick Goutal at least one of the discontinued gems soon was brought back in the assortment, but I don't know if it depends of the customer compliants or not. In the new bottle of course and I don't know if the formula has changed: Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille, the best Goutal so far IMO. The Edp-version of  Un Matin d'Orage Edp launched in 2014 is also a very good perfume.
• A package of samples is an intriguing Christmas gift to most people. If you don't have the time and patience to decant yourself, Fragrance & Art and Riktig Parfym could support.

Mona di Orio - Myrrh Casati

Picture: Marchesa Luisa Casati, (1881-1957)
Painting  1908 by Giovanni Boldino (1842-1931)
Wikimedia commons

Myrrh Casati is the first fragrance from nichehouse Mona di Orio created by another perfumer than Mona. After Monas untimely death in December 2011, the fragrances that was in line for release Rose Etoile de Hollande and Eau Absolue or the personal fragrance for Monas business partner Jeroen Oude Sogtoen Violette Fumeé, were launched. This difficult mission to compose the first non-Mona fragrance for the house of di Orio was given to perfumer Melanie Leroux. The new perfumes are launched in a subline called the Monogram Collection which also introduce new bottles and a new logotype for the Mona di Orio brand.

Myrrh Casati is inspired of the very wealthy eccentric italian early 20th century active Marchesa Luisa Casati, a musa for fashion and art. Myrrh is a timeless, dramatic and mysterious ingredient with ancient origins and therfore also maybe a tad eccentric.

Myrrh Casati starts transparent and in the higher octaves of the scale, a similar context as Serge Lutens beautiful La Myrrhe but with a slight spicy, smoky almost leathery addition. La Myrrhe is more of a pure myrrh perfume with the pronounced refreshing mushroomnote which lasts for a considerable time of the dry down, in Myrrh Casati the mushroomnotes last just for a while. In the middlenotes the licorice contribute to a sweet contrast to the very dry myrrhinterpretation of Myrrh Casati. There is also a smell of fresh loam and a quick glimpse of a drak green moisy moss and a quick passing note similar to pine needles. The licorienote is very well balanced and not as prominent as in Guerlain Myrrhe et Delires or Huiteme Art Myrrhiad. In the basenotes Myrrh Casati is deeper and the myrrh is surrounded by perfectly balanced spices, the cardamom and saffron are note detectable as separte notes, as also not the incense and patchouli. Everything is somehow perfectly balanced, restrained, elegant and wellbehaved.

Picture: Myrrh Casati in the new Mona di Orio flacon
Photo: PR Parfums Mona di Orio (c)

To me Myrrh Casati is calming and soothing, not recalling one of the Marchesas wild parties. The darker, denser and heavier Huiteme Art Myrrhiad would be more suitable in this context IMO. Insted it's recalling the same as Serge Lutens La Myrrhe a medival stonechapel, cold a bit moisty and mossy stone, with traces of the smell of balmy incense, myrrh and soft spices in the air.

Even if not original or not particularly distinctive from the other myrrhs mentioned in the post, the soothing and in the same time elegant qualities makes Myrrh Casati very attractive and wearable for many occasions year around. It's undoubtedly appropriate in style to join the perfumes created by Mona. Sillage is close and longevity over night. Not that I'm a specialist in perfume construction but to me, Myrrh Casati is better balanced then both Myrrhe et Delires and Myrrhiad. Finally I perceive it Myrrh Casati as a more restrained alternative to La Myrrhe.

Rating: 5

Notes: Red berries, pink pepper, cardamom, saffron, licorice, benzoin, myrrh, incense, patchouli, nagarmotha, guaiac wood

Coquillete - Tudor

Picture: Elisabeth of York, (1465-1503)
queen consort of England
Paining from ca 1500, unkonwn painter
Wikimedia commons

Tudor is said to be the last installment in the fragrance journey of french nichehouse Coquillete. There is no perfumer mentioned for Tudor.

Tudor starts with a pink,velvet rose carried by a fully ripe lemon, which create a fresh, fruity but not too sweet vibe of the fragrance. There are absolutely no harsh or sharp edges either from the lemon or from the rose. The rose smell  is the fresh petals, without the green leaves, steam and thorns.  One can imagine a noble lady relaxing a sunny, early summer day outside a heavy medival castle relieved that the "cousins war" or as we call it today, the war of roses was finally over.

As Tudor reach the middle, the rose and other notes mingles in a beautiful, creamy texture, smelling almost like the smooth rose-nailcream  (don't remember its name)   which my mother used decades ago and also told me that  her grandmother used. Going further in the drydown, Tudor suddenly becomes slight spicy and the pink velvet darkens. There are also earthy qualities apperaing, just as the moisty loam of the forestfloor  heated up by the warm sun contrasting the early summerlight and delicate green of the grass, bushes and  threes. In the basenotes Tudor continues in the light spicy, creamy style and also gets deeper and more balsamic in texture. There is a touch of amber added with light vanilla notes that together with the rest, creates a strange sort of  dark putty lipstick-accord, almost touching a smooth, dark leathery element. In this part there is someting (the dark lipstick) that reminds me of a pale version of the beautiful Rozy Edp from Vero Kern, part of the basenotes of that fragrance seems to be present also in Tudor. There is also a dark, slight herbal, medical note contrasting in the base, in this fragrance darker and ticker than in the archetype of medical roses, Parfume d'Empire Eau Suave. In the overoll context of the basenotes there is also something that reminds me of a feminie interpreatation of Frapin Nevermore, which I experience as a masculine rose. Tudor is, just like Nevermore, classified as unisex but to me it's much more feminine in style, for those who cares of genderclassifications. The longer Tudor dries down in the base the more sweet (like a deep dark frutiy retro candy note) but also, unfortunately, also indistinct and plain it becomes. The top-, middle- and early basenotes is the best and interesting parts of Tudor, in the second part of the basenotes nothing happens.

Picture: Tudor
Photo: PR Coquillete (c)

Taken as a whole, Tudor despite its shortcoming (compared to the earlier stages) in the late dry down, is an intriguing rose fragrance, developing from a innocent, creamy, pink and sunny rose to a darker variation with some not so innocent nuances. The fragrance  may actually serve as an olfactory portrait of the first Tudor queen, Elisabeth the Princess of York (the White rose) married to the Tudor (Lancaster the red rose) Henry, who bacame king Henry VII as the outcome of the civilwar and both parents to Henry VIII. Without any sharp edges and with its sort of retro sweetness, Tudor smells timeless and sort of mysterious natural, like a recipe of a brew  preserved since the days of the Tudors.

Tudor is suitable to wear year around, for any (non-sport) occasions. Sillage is medium and longevity for a day. This intriguing and timeless perfume also causing compliments to the wearer.

Rating: 3

Re rating 2018/2019: 4 + - this is a comfortable and easy to wear rose for everyday. It doesn't become boring, it has enough interesting twists. A rose suitable for fall and winter.

Notes: Rose, geranium, lily of the valley, amber, benzoin, soil, rosewood, labdanum, benzoin, grey amber, vanilla

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of Tudor

Naomi Goodsir - Or du Serail

Picture: The Reception (1873)
Painting by John Frederick Lewis (1805-1875)
Wikipedia commons

Or du Serail is the third fragrance in the perfumelinfe of australian fashiondesigner Naomi Goodsir. Or du Serail is created by the famous nose Bertrand Duchaufour.

Or du Serail starts with a wonderful blast of balsamic, resin notes, supported by cocos and  pickled fruits in boozy, rum-liqueur. This accord are present during the whole dry down but in different strengths in different parts of the fragrance. Soon a balancing almost aromatic note appears and adding some slight spritzy green texture to the fragrance. Combined with the other notes, an accord similar to the smell of almondcake appears for a while. I recognize this accord from Carner Barcelona Rima XI. Then Or du Serail goes on in a darker, fruity-rum phase, with some hardwood, the fizzy herbal green still present but more subdued. In this stege there is something that reminds me of a less spicier Frapin Caravelle Epicée with its woody rum and warmth crossed with  the dark, boosy, woody fruits of Parfum DelRae Bois de Paradise. In the basenotes a light gunpowdernote also appears balancing the boozy fruit, the resins and balsams with some dryness. In the late basenotes, the fruits somehow gets more noticeable again and has a slight flowery twist.

Picture: Or du Serail
Photo: PR Naomi Goodsir (c)

I can think of Or du Serail as suitable as a daytime perfume in the harem as I imagine heavier and much darker elixirs  was used for the night. For most of the public in todays Western World, Or du Serail is sufficiently full and exotic for evening wear, even if Parfumistas easily wears it for daytime during autumn and winter. Or du Serail will be the perfect fragrance for the coming Christmas holidays, despite celebrating at home/away or working. It's a unisex fragrance but IMO it lends a bit more to the feminine side. The sillage is medium and longevity for 24h.

Or du Serail is another oriental-fouerge I have tested lately. It seems as a genre with rising popularity at the moment, see also my reviews of By Kilian Intoxicated and Light My Fire. The aromatic notes in those fragrances makes them lighter, less sweet and probably attract a broder group of potential customer then the classical heavy orientels.

Rating: 4

Notes: Apple, red berries, mango, sweet orange, rum, artemisia, sage, coconut, geranium, ylang-ylang, mate, labdanum, beeswax, honey, tobacco, amber, oak tree, cedar, musk, vanilla

Thanks for Fragrance & Art for the sample to try

By Kilian - Intoxicated

Picture: In Cafe at Hotel Sacher, Wien
Photo: Deror avi (cc) Wikimedia commons,
some rights reserved

Intoxicated is the third tested fragrance in the new By Kilian subline Addicted State of Mind. The fragrance is created by the almost By Kilian inhouse nose Calice Becker.

Opens delicious with something which smells as a very dry lavendel note combined with coffe, cream and cardamom. Instantly the coffe-cream-lavendel  Belle en Rykiel  from Sonia Rykiel  comes to my mind but Belle is sweeter and more gourmand in style, Intoxicated is like an ariy, subtle version. After a while Intoxicated moves a step further compared with Belle and Intoxicated  is further warmed up with more light, sort of airy interpreted spices with an offsetting fizzy accord/note which is present from now on.

During the whole drydown, Intoxicated seems to be injected with some special almost fizzy aromatic notes but  the notes are not of the full herbal quality. Instead the impression is as some parts of some aromatic notes have been separated and then mixed to a new version of an aromatic note. Anyway, that note or accord  perfectly counterbalances  the sweetness from coffe,cream and the warmth of the spices.
Finally, in  the basenotes, Intoxicated ends up in a  pleasant mix of fresh cardamon in a caffe latte, suported by the rest of  the spices. very cozy and awesome to wear a grey, rainy autumnday. There is also the  fizzy, woody quality  (described above) in the base that brightens it up and avoid that Intoxicated ends up too dense and sweet which is always a risk with "café-inspired" fragrances. There are also traces of something dark, similar to patchouli.

Intoxicated is IMO the stand out (at least when it comes to what's pleasant for me to wear, when it comes to originality Smoke for the Soul takes the prize) in the Addicted State of Mind-trio. Wearing this well balanced blend gives the image of visitning a cosily café and stay there for hours a gloomy autumn afternoon. It's a pleasure to wear, makes the wearer happy and it is suitable for daytime wear during the cold season. The sillage is close, and there is overnight longevity. Even if not a groundbreaking composition Intoxicated is so delicious, nice to wear and comfortable that it deserves:

Rating: 5

Notes: Cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon, coffee

By Kilian - Light My Fire

Picture: The Doors -
personalizing "Light My Fire"
Photo: PR from 1968, Wikipedia commons

Light My Fire is the second fragrance I have tested in the new Addicted state of Mind trio from french nichehouse By Kilian. Pefumer is Sidonie Lancesseur.

Light My Fire starts with boozy tobacco executed in the higher octaves of the fragrancenotes scale. Despite that booze/tobacco traditionally is dark, deep and warm notes, here they are somehow high-pitched and almost cold. After a while a pleasant bubblegumnote, similar to that note in Jean Paul Gaultier 2 but more subtle, appears and softens the tobaccoleaves. A bit sharp, green note, paste-like in texture shows up as a contrast. This note reminds me of the spicy green, foody note in Etat Libre d'Orange Fils de Dieu du Riz et des Argumes. In the early dry down this note is slight metallic and in some stages Light My Fire reminds me of a softer version of the original Gianfranco Ferre Homme with its special, metallic, oriental, tobacco and spicy notes. There are also something familiar with the old Fendi Uomo but lighter in texture. As Light My Fire dries further down the green note becomes almost fizzy and with fresh vibes and smells almost like like geranium for a. When Light My Fire settles in the basenotes a harmonius blend of tbbacco, hay, light patchouli and some supporting vetiver are dominating. The green, spicy note still there but not as not as clear as before. In this stage I smell some similarities with the tobacco of Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque but in Light My Fire the note is thinner and lighter. The basenotes is the most pleasant phase of the perfume and the patchouli interacting with the tobacco, adds a welcomed depth to the fragrance. In the basenotes there is a similarity in expression with Frapin Speakeasy.

Compared to THE tobacco perfume of By Kilian Back to Black, Light My Fire may be likened with blond, fresh tobacco suitable for a light cigarette and Back to Black to ripe, deep, dark pipe tobacco.
Light My Fire is a pleasant and wearable perfume, nothing groundbreaking but good. It suits best for autumn and winter as for most occasions. Sillage is close and longevity for more than a day.

Rating: 4

Notes: Cumin, hay, patchouli, vetiver, honey, vanila, tobacco

By Kilian - Smoke for the Soul

Picture: Kilian himself personify
his new line - Addicted State of Mind
Smoke for the Soul
Photo: PR By Kilian (c)

Smoke for the Soul is one of three fragrances that constitutes the start of a new By Kilian subline called "The addicted state of mind.  Smoke for the Soule is created by perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin.

Smoke for the Soul starts cold and slight mentholic, probably from the eucalyptus, soon a bitter citric note appears,  followed by a note close to dry, unsweet liquorice. After a while the smoke appears, a smoke similar to the smell of a forest fire. When the smoke subsides, the cold green mentholic accord comes forward again, accompanied by a natural smelling cardamon note. There is also something that smells similar to wet tobaccoleaves glimpsing in the background. The overall structure is sharp, woody, cold spicy/herbal.

Picture: Smoke for the Soul
Photo: PR By Kilian (c)

Overall Smoke for the Soul is a weird perfume. At first it's easy to be confused and condemn it as a high-end but easy going fragrance, likable for most people. But soon I become aware of my mistake, Smoke of the Soule is alternately repulsive and likeable, feels alternately refreshing and depressing. It has something familiar but overall it's a strange composition. It's lighter and more fleeting than some other fragrances with "drug" elements such as Nasomatto Black Afgano ticker, a bit sweeter and fullbodied compared with SftS and Parfumerie Generale Cozë also sweeter,denser and more spicy/herbal. When the fresher sides of SftS shines through, there is something (the chilly herbal quality) in the overall apperance that reminds med of
De Bachmakow from The Different Company.

Smoke for the Soul is suitable (in small doses) for daytime wear but not in too warm or too cold temperatures, perhaps autumn and spring is the best seasons for this fragrance. Overnight longevity and sillage is close. It's classified as unisex and I agree with that, it's totally genderless.

Not my favorite By Kilian but as always with the Kilians a wellcrafted, high quality fragrance that at least creates a reaction, which is not common among the current releases.

Rating: 4

Notes: Eucalyptus, grapefruit, tobacco, mate, birch, cashmirwood, cannabis, cardamom

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Mon Numero 10

Picture:  Cover of the pulp magazine Oriental Stories
(Spring 1932, vol. 2, no. 2)  featuring Scented Gardens by Dorothy Quick.Cover art by Margaret Brundage, Wikimedia commons

Mon Numero 10 is created by  the highly productive perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour for the well known, pioneer, nichehouse L'Artisan Parfumeur.

Mon Numero 10 starts with a very special accord which smell almost like stewed fruits in  liqueur. Soon a clean airy incenseote appears, similar to the clean incense in Andy Tauers Incense Extreme. The incense is followed by a very well mixed note of cedar which smells like smooth pencil shavings, the note of pencil shavings I sometimes percieve as too sharp. Leather is another note which slowly evolve and becoming clearer in the middle of Mon Numero 10 and together with the other notes the fragrance adopts an almost furry texture. From here on, Mon Numero 10 smells similar to the iconic Fendi  Femme (original) but thinner and sweeter, like a contemporary, slight gourmand adaption to the classical Fendi theme. I could also detect Chanel Coco. This pleasant phase goes on until the later stages where suddenly the sweet, cinnaber infused, glüwein accord found in Parfumerie Generale Un Crime Exotique appears.

Picture: L'Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numero 10
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur

Mon Numero 10 is a perfect oriental for fall and winter, comforting and with  interesting twists as described above. The longevity is good, for a day and with traces left the following morning, it's especially these remaining notes which are very close to Un Crime Exotique. As Mon Numero 10 appears as an intresting mix of other attractive perfumes it somehow feels like Duchaufour was not especially inspired when he composed this blend, it's like this fragrance was created by routine. Despite this Mon Numero 10 is a good, multifacetted and wearable oriental. If I had not been familiar with the other perfumes which I detect in this fragrance and also liked each of them better than the "merged" fragrance, I would have considered more than a sample of Mon Numero 10.

Rating: 4 (November 2014)

Rating: 5 (Re-rated in June 2015 as I liked No 10 even more when tested after the review. It turned to be a fragrance which I couldn't get out of my mind = FBW)

Notes: Fennel, bergamot, aldehydes, pink pepper, cardamon, cinnamon, cabreuva, leather, incense, rose, geranium, jasmine, cedar, musk, vanilla, benzoin, hyrax, heliotrophe, tonka been, styrax, ambregris

Thanks to Fragrance & Art  for the sample

Parfum d' Empire - quick reviews

Recently, I (and Mr Parfumista) tested some almost forgotten samples from the wellcrafted Parfum d'Empire line, all the samples is from the "old" line ie before the change in bottledesign.
Below some quick impressions:

Picture: Yuzu Fou (old bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Yuzu Fou: Citiric, kumquat and bitter orange notes contrasted with different bright, green notes such as bamboo and verbena. Creates a sunny and warm impression and a touch of something fizzy spicy as ginger. Goes much better with Mr Parfumistas skinchemistry than mine.

Picture: Osmanthus Interdite (old bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Osmanthus Interdite: This osmanthus is just lovely, it reminds me of another light and tender favorite but featuring another flower, ByKilian Imperial Tea.

Picture: Equistrius (old bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Equistrius: Strangely enough this is said to be an iris as it smells close to Antonio Visconti Rose Savage but on the other hand  neither the iris in E or the rose in RS are particularly clear or dominant, they are just parts of two elegant and well crafted fragrances.

Picture: Wazamba (old bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Wazamba: A gentle and unusually warm incensefragrance with some slight sweet, spicy notes. It is said to be inspired of Africa and I could agree as it has that warm and different twist compared to  the  austere styled cold european incenses. Great longevity.

Picture: Fougere Bengale (old bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Fougere Bengale: One of the best blond tobacco scents out there, smells pure and authentic as freshly harvested tobaccoleaves. A winner for Mr Parfumista.

Fragrance & Art carries the full line and have some bottles left of some of the Pd'E fragrances in the old styled bottles to the old considerably lower price.

Parfum d'Empire - Cuir Ottoman (new & old version)

Picture: Sultan Selim III holding an audience in
front of the Gate of Felicity.
 Oil on canvas, Topkapı Sarayı Müzesi, Istanbul,
Wikipedia commons

Cuir Ottoman is created by ISIPCA perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato for his own perfumehouse, Parfum d'Empire. Parfum d'Empire is a house that produces first class perfumes to decent prices (to be niche) also after the re-packing, and it also seems to, slight revison of the earlier fragrances. When it comes to Cuir Ottoman, revision is definitly the case at least to my nose when comparing the first version launched in 2006 with the new one.

Picture: Cuir Ottoman (old)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Cuir Ottoman starts leathery-floral, the newer one airier and with more flowers than the older one. After a while the old one becomes a bit smokey, supported by a rubbery note, slight similar to the rubber in Bulgari Black. The rubbernote is intricate and surpringly shifts between the rubber and a note similar to something to a flowery bubblegumnote. When the new version developes, the higher octaves of the scentscale and the more flowery impression remains. Instead of the rubbery note in the old version, I smell a note close to gunpowder balancing the flowerinfused leather. The new version is a tad more feminin in style, more elegant than the more masculine tougher and rougher old version, somewhat like the elegant Chanel Cuir de Russie compared to the masculine Knize Ten even if not smelling the same. As Cuir Ottoman dries down in the still leathery basenotes, I find new and old version becoming more alike than in the earlier stages, even if the old version is a tad more spicy and deeper.

Cuir Ottoman is a very good leather fragrance in the basic classic style that every fragrance wardrobe needs. Not demanding or or particularly innovative but a well made and well balanced leather in a timeless style. When writing this review, a grey autumn Sunday, I slightly prefer the old version, which with its a bit darker facetts is suitable for autumn and winter. But if the testing was performed in spring/summer I maybe would prefer the new version.

Picture: Cuir Ottoman (new)
Photo: PR Parfume d'Empire (c)

Cuir Ottoman is appropriate for most occasions (apart from working out) and seasons (though not in the hottest summer). Longevity is good, for more than a day, and sillage is somewhere between close to medium. To conclude, Cuir Ottoman is definitely a leather to consider when adding a classic "Cuir" to ones wardrobe.

Rating. 5

Notes: Iris, jasmine, leather, vanilla, tonka bean, incense

Thanks to Fragrance & Art  for a sample of the new version

Blog Anniversary - 8 years today

Today it's eight years since my first entry (in swedish) on old "Parfumistans dagbok" = "The diary of Parfumista". It was about my long time passion for perfume, my first perfumememories of my mothers signaturefragance Dior Diorissimo etc. Looking back, if I had put all the effort that I put in blogging and the money spend in perfume in managening a stock portfolio instead, I would be halfway to be financially independent by now :-). On the other hand, I  probably would have smell less intricate.

Perfumes I crave and wear at the moment:

Guerlain L'Heure Bleue Edt & Edp (vintage): Both magnificent, Edt airier, drier and with an almost herbal touch, Edp dark and like velvet in texture, sweeter and with more flowery notes.

YSL Opium Edt (current): I love also the current formula, deep, spicy, dark woody. Perfect for fall and winter and with a excellent longevity.

Montale Aoud Red Flowers Edp: A non-oudy oud from Montales oud-line. Lipstick texture, tagets with traces of tobbacco. Sort of vintage feeling.

Farmacia SS Annunziata Gelsorosa Edp: The best jasmine (supported by orangeblossom and tubereuse) I have tested so far. Intensive and musky-animalic.

Chanel Cuir de Russie Edt: Powdery, aldehydic, leather, with a lipstick texture. Like the smell from inside an elegant purse.

Pictures above: PR Guerlain, Yves Saint Laurent, Montale, Farmacia SS Annunziata, Chanel (c)

PS: Out of nostalgia I publish this post at 14:02 PM exactly the same moment as the first entry eight years ago.

Maria Candida Gentile - Noir Tropical

Picture: Noir Tropical
Photo: PR Maria Candida Gentile (c)

Noir Tropical is a vanilla, silght gourmandy fragrance from  italian perfumer Maria Candida Gentile whos fragrances, I appreciate very much. See reviews and other posts tagged MCG.

Starts with an vanillic accord which is almost chocolaty in the first stages. This part reminds me of old Trussardi Python but a smoother and gentler interpretation. The chocolade vanish after a while and a woody, slight rummy vanilla takes the centerplace. In this stage Noir Tropical reminds me of a mixture of Boucheron Trouble, the characteristic dry woody vanillanote, similar to the smell of old books, and the rummy vanilla of L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille/Vanille Absolument. After that there is not much more happening, Noir Tropical is a cozy plain vanilla, nothing original or challenging which is a bit disappointing as some of MCG:s first fragrances Sideris, Cinabre and Exultat are exactly just that. The longevity is for at least a day, the sillage is close and Noir Tropical is a perfect, not offending, perfume for the workplace. But as said above, no sensations. The name Noir Tropical to me recalls the image (or smell) of a dense night blooming, dark perfume, something with heavy flowers and vanilla and compared to that, Noir Tropical seems seems a bit lightweighted.

To summarize: A nice, and pleasant vanilla perfume which could be appreaciated by a much  wider audience than MCG:s earlist fragrances. A good sort of basic vanilla fragrance to consider I one needs a new one in this genre for the grey and cold months to come.

Rating: 3

Notes:  Bergamot, almond, vanilla, rum

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to try

Rania J. - T.Habanero

Picture: A close up of an orange Habanero chile pepper
Photo: Ryan Bushby (cc) Wikipedia commons,
some rights reserved

T.Habanero is the latest release from perfumer Rania Jounaeh who has created a collection of perfumes containing a high percentage of naturals. See  my reviews from spring this year.

T.Habanero starts with a blast of barnyard, strong, dark, and intensive. The barnyard accord is similar to tha same accord in Rania J. Oud Assam which is the one of Ranias earlier fragrances that most equals T.Habanero. It also have some traces of Rania J.s Ambre Loup. As T.Habanero dries down to its second half, the dirty notes almost disapperars and a distinct but not too strong tobacconote takes the centerplace. There is also a ligtht spicy impression which is rather cold and not warm in its character, probably it's the cardamom contributing to this. The pepper, is despite the name of the fragrance, not a dominating note, it's well integrated in the fragrance.

T.Habanero isn´t something new or especially orginal despite some challenging accords in the first part of the fragrance. Overall it's a nice and comforting perfume, perfect for the cold autumn and winterdays which are approaching. It's a strong fragrance so one has to apply sparingly to avoid overdoing. So handled it could be worn also in the workplace even if the style and character in my opinion is more casual, perfect for a walk in the woods in crispy autumn leaves.

The style is in the contemporary dark-resin-oudy with representatives as for example Puredistance Black, Parfums MDCI Cuir Garamante and Stephan Humbert Lucas 777  Black Gemstone. When comparing T.Habanero to Oud Assam, I think the latter is a better and more challenging composition.

Rating: 4

Notes: Cardamom, black pepper, sandalwood, olibanum, myrrh, oud, tobacco