Maria Candida Gentile - Finisterre

Picture: Fisterre, Galicia, Spain
Photo: Greta, Wikimedia Commons

Finisterre is one of the latest releases in the classical line of my favorite Italian perfumer, Maria Candida Gentile. Finisterre is a contemporary representative of the, among many (snobbish) perfumistas, not so valued (to be diplomatic) aquatic genre. This genre seems to have a revival recently with Hermès Epice Marine as a forerunner. The aquatics of the 2010s doesent have the traditional melon (calone) note and re-interprete the genre.

Finisterre is inspired by the second (the first is Cabo da Roca outside Lisabon which I've wisited myself) outermost tip of the Iberian Peninsula, Cape Finisterre in Galicia, where the wawes of the atlantic ocaean rolls in over the cliffs with full power. Finisterre really captures what I image as a sunny, windy summerday at the place. The first part has something in common with the original Kenzo pour Homme but without the intriguing aromatic aquatic twisted lily of the valley note that is the characteristic of the Kenzo. Very soon a very well done, not sharp, turpentine note appears and is present during the whole dry down. It's contrasted with a green, non sweet, minty note and when these notes are interacting a sea like note appears. There are also a woody freshness of fir present softened with a discrete sandalwood and immortelle. The immortele is not at all the bombastic proportions of for example Annick Goutal Sables or leathery strong as in Histoires de Parfums 1740 Marquise de Sade. The herbal qualities of Finisterre expresses itself as an soft anise/ licorice-like nuance which discretely accompanies the other notes. A note of crisp green leaves, just like fresh tulip or other bulbflowers crispy leaves i  spring also appears and this part reminds me of the beautiful springfragrance of Oriza L.Legrand Déjà le Printemps.  There is also a relaxing, salty, balsamic aspect of Finisterre, probably the ambregris which lends the composition a true oceanic expression.
Even if no distinguishable incensenote there is also an almost churchy aspect of Finisterre, a nuance of what is much more noticeable in MCG Sideris and Exultat. Maybe this is mirroring the fact that Finisterre is the final destination of the pilgrims of the Way of Saint James, the last 90 km walk from the pilgrim metropole Santiago de Compostela. When reaching Finisterre, the pilgrims following an old tradition, burns their clothes or shoes. Finsterre is a quite linear composition to my nose and one experience most of its features at the same time.

Picture:. The stylish bottle of Finisterre
Photo: PR Maria Candida Gentile (c)

I instantly liked Finisterre for the first time when I tried it and my liking has constantly growing through the wearing from the sample supplied by Fragrance & Art. Finisterre is also drawing compliments, several people have independitly complimented this aquatic wonder. A perfect summerfragrance, both for casual and for office. Not the most complicated MCG fragrance but on the other hand, who wants to analyze the whole time, sometimes at least me, just want to relax in a good fragrance. Finsterre is just great IMO and it has joined my other two most favorite MCG:s  Sideris and Cinabre in the top.

Rating: 5

Notes: Sea notes, immortelle, pine tree, ambergris, sandalwood

Parfumerie Générale - Grand Siècle Intense 7.1

Picture: Grand Siècle Intense
Photo: PR Parfumerie Générale (c)

Grand Siècle Intense 7.1 is the just released, fourth fragrance in the Signature Collection of Parfumerie Générale, collection which Pierre Guillaume started to create 2012 to mark the 10th anniversary of Parfumerie Générale that year. The collection will capture Pierres development as a perfumer and offers different interpretations of some of the Parfumerie Générale perfumes from the past. The Signature Collection is only avaible at Parfumerie Générales own website.

Grand Siècle Intense is a follower to the very natural smelling bitter citrus cologne Cologne Grand Siècle in which Pierre Guillaume was inspired by the court of the Sun King Louis XIV in the seventeenth century and the few and pure ingredients which then was avaible to the parfumer. 

Grand Siècle Intense starts with natural smelling bitter citrus and green notes. A realistic and refreshing, slight fizzy note of mint leaves appears after a while. This mint is also present in the original Maroocan Mint tea inspired Harmatan Noir 11, but in this fragrance, blended with smokey, spicy almost metallic notes. The minty note is also present in the easier to wear Noir Marine from the Phaedon line. Grand Siècle Intense goes on with green-woody notes, with the sparkilng green of cypress over light woods, fresh moss and a well intergrated vetiver. The cypress slightly reminds me of the sparkling green in Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien. A slight smokey touch also appears and glimpses of a very fine leather also appears and in the basenotes there is also a light, well rounded sweetness, probably the honey, which prevent the fragrance from beeing too aromatic in style.Just as in Cologne Grand Siècle there are no harsh or artifical smelling notes which seems to be quite common in cheaper aromatic/citrus fragrances. As usual with Parfumerie Générale this is high quality stuff and it's a smooth, delightful and easy to wear fragrance. Grand Siècle Intense is, just as it's forerunner, with its close sillage, perfect both for casual and office wear in spring and summer. The only drawback, just as with the cologneversion, is the longevity. Even if I applied liberally, I have to reapply every two-three hours and 75% of my 2 ml sample was gone after one wearing. On the other hand, I have dry skin so this is probably not a common problem.

Comparing the two Grand Siècle versions, Cologne Grand Siècle is more of a cologne in style (even if not fully) with citrusy, lemony notes and also with a for the fragrance characteristic note of a hard citruspastille. In  Grand Siècle Intense the cologne inspired theme is most present in the early stage of the fragrance, later it's more of a citiric, green, light woody aromatic perfume. Both fragrances are unisex even if the cologne IMO is leaning a bit more to the masculine side and the Intense is just neutral.

Rating: 4 (if rating how it smells, its structure and quality of ingredients), 3 (if taken the longevity issues in consideration)

Notes: Bergamot, bitter orange, lemon leaves, mint, cypress, vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, tobacco absolute, hay, honey

Van Cleef & Arpels - Un Air de First

Picture: Jasminum sambac 'Grand Duke of Tuscany'
Photo: Scott Zona (cc) some rights reserved, Wikimedia Commons

Un Air de First is a new interpretation by perfumer Nathalie Gracia-Cetto to celebrate the 35th anniversery of the first Van Cleef & Arpels fragence, the classic First created by Jean-Claude Ellena.

Un Air de First is a proper name for this fragrance, it is airier and cleaner than the original during the whole developement of the fragrance. It starts aldehydic, flowery, green but the flowers are fruity and bright compared to the soapy and heavier flowers of First. I also pervieve the flowers of Un Air de First as perdominantly clean and white (even the rose is white) wheras Firsts flowers are heavier and with a higher degree of yellow flowers. Pretty soon in the drydown, a note that almost smells like fresh tobacco appears in  Un Air de First. Galbanum is als glimpsing but not as noticable as in First. Later on the tobacco is lit and a clean note of cigarettesmoke appears accompanying the jasmine. The notemix is not at all dirty as in Etat Libre d'Orange Jasmine et Cigarettes but it's not as dry and subtle as in M.Micallef Royal Vintage, it's more round and fruity. Un Air de First continues to dry down in a lipsticky, aldehydic flowery manner and is underscored by a musky slight woody base.

Picture. Un Air de First
Photo: PR Van Cleef & Arpels (c)

Un Air de First has succeded to perserve the spirit of the original, just as Balmain with the new interpretation of Ivoire where the new version is fruitier and brighter than the original. The fact that the spirit of First is perserved is also proved by Mr Parfumistas comments about a " much too ladylike scent". I think Un Air de First is sort of contemporary ladylike and as it's very strong, one have to be careful with application, it is not airy=light. The sillage is great and as also the longevity, about 24h.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Galbanum, Peach, Fruity Notes, Jasmine, Rose, Green Notes, Vetiver, White Musk

By Kilian - Imperial Tea

Picture: Flower close up of Jasminum officinale
Photo: B.traeger (cc) some rights reserved, Wikimedia Commons

Imperial Tea is the other of the two latest releases in the By Kilian Asian Tales Collection, a collection with transparent, elegant and relaxing fragrances of high quality ingredients. Even if delicate in style, the Asian Tales fragrances have good lastingpower and sillage to be modern, light compositions. The Asian Tales line IMO is especially good for spring and summer. Imperial Tea is created by Claice Becker with the intention to recreate the olfactive impression of  a freshly brewed cup of exquisite jasmine tea.

Imperial Tea starts with a beautiful, very natural smelling jasmine, which is sparkling, light and uplifiting. After a while a contrasting almost green a bit tart, chalky note appears which remainds me of the smell in the oyster colored Jugendstyled bathroom of my grandmother. This note, is also present for a while in By Kilian Playing with The Devil and just a tad denser also in Vanille Tonka from Parfums de Nicolaï. When Imperial Tea dries down, it is obvious that  the jasmine is not as clean as the initial impression. In the middlenotes the animalic undertone of jasmine appears, contrasting the cleaner notes just as the chalky note persist. The teanote of Imperial Tea is subtle and just accompaning the jasmine. It is a light, gentle, white teanote, like silver tip tea and there is absolutely non of the for many teafragrances typical harsh, wet wipe note. The teanote of Imperial Tea is the best subtle teanote that I have smelled in perfume so far. In the basenotes, Imperial Tea becames darker in its tonality but the wellbalanced jasmine, tea, green chalky, slight animalic combo still persists.

Picture Bai Hao Yin Zhen tea leaves (white tea)
Photo: lateasquirrel (cc) some rights reserved, Wikipedia Commons

Imperial Tea is perfect for sipping white tea in a blooming jasmine bower a warm early summer day. It's a casual chic fragrance, perfect for daytime wear and is also very suitable for office. Compared to the other By Kilian which feature jasmine, Love and Tears, Imperial Tea is more minimalistic and less flowery in style. Both fragrances are classied as unisex and to my nose Love and Tears leaning more to the feminine side than Imperial Tea which is positioned in the middle but also slight more feminine. Longevity is for a day, if freely applied, the sillage is close, a true wristsniffer. This is a must have for summer :-)

Rating: 5

Notes: Jasmine, tea

By Kilian - Sacred Wood

Picture: Santalum Album in Hyderabad
Photo: J.M Garg (cc) some rights reserved,
Wikimedia Commons

Sandalwood perfumes are a tricky fragrance cathegory for me. The iconic  Guerlain Samsara is too bold for me (even if my friend Fragrancefanatic have some anosmic problems with it), the heavy sandalwood + curry(?) Serge Lutens Santal de Mysore which is the only fragrance so far that has caused me an allergic reaction, Parfums Frederic Malle Dries van Noten is a bit too sweet and almondcookie like too remind me of the real wood. Etro Sandalo (old version) is good but maybe a bit too dense. And so one could go on... Until now, when I have found my ideal sandalwood (so far): By Kilian Sacred Wood from the Asian Tales Collection, as most Kilians created by Calice Becker. CB is well known for her excellent floral interpretations but apparently she is also a champion of woods. As a composition Sacred Wood is built around the olfactive impression of Mysore Sandalwood. This sandalwood is prohibited to use because of over-exploitation and a similar accord has been  reconstituted in Sacred Wood.

Sacred Wood starts with delicious sparkling, transparent sandalwood. The cocosaccent in the sandalwood is distinct in the operning and is almost flowery and reminicent of the cocoslike note in tubereuse. Soon there is also a tart, slight, fizzy but in the same time smooth and milky green note contrasting the sandalwood. The milky green note reminds me of fig, not a listed note but the effect is similar. The sandalwood, tart milky fig combination persists during the whole dry down of Sacred Wood but as longer the fragrance dries down the more prominent the sandalwood is. In the later basenotes, the impression is of solid, warm sandalwood.

Picture: Sacred Wood By Kilian
Photo: PR By Kilian (c) 

Sacred Wood somehow reminds me of a woody Annick Goutal Ninféo Mio and is just as this dark green.figgy  fragrance, a perfect companion for summer. Even if transparent in texture, Sacred Wood is a powerful fragrance that lasts for almost 24h and has a medium sillage. Its warmth makes it also nice to wear during the colder month. Sacred Wood is suitable both for work and festive occasions, an elegant,  sandalwood in a contemporary but in the same time timeless interpretation.

Rating: 5

Notes: Sandalwood oil, milk, wood, spices

Fragrances for Easter

Picture: Easter postcard early 20th century
Wikipeda Commons

During the years my Easterfragrances mostly have been from the following cathegories: Incense, gourmand or green. This year therefore I'll feature one favorite from each category that will fit for Easter in some sense.

Passage d'Enfer (L'Artisan Parfumeur): The well balanced incensenote combined with an elegant white lily gives me associations of a cathedral in Easter. Rays of springlight flowing through the high, gotic windows and the voices from the choir is rises towards the gotic arches.

Imperial Tea (ByKilian):Technically this is of course not a gourmand but as I've a bit stomach ache and less appetite than usual, nothing really gourmand attracts me at the moment. It does however this refreshing and calming jasminetea fragrance. Review will follow next week.

Déjà de Printemps (Oriza L. Legrand): What could be more springlike green than the crisp and fresh leaves of springtime bulbflowers, fresh grass and glimpses of Lily of the Vally. Déjà de Printemps captures a just blooming springgarden perfectly.

Happy Easter!

A reminder about Mohur....

Photo; Mr Parfumista (c)

It seems as when I reviewed the beautiful Mohur Extrait from Neela Vermiere in september last year, it was not yet widely released. The broader launch was some weeks ago at Esxence 2014, information from Lucas on Chemist in a Bottle, read his very well written report from the event here.

Mohur Extrait is my favorite from Neela and I was reminded of its dark, rosy, velvet, golden, purple revelation when trying the airy, silk, silver, purple rose from Parfumerie Générale, Isparta 26 lately. Mohur Extrait could be a perfect companion in the coming Easter, especially on the serene and sad Good Friday as the fragrance is a calming and perfect for the contemplative mood. Here is the link to the full review of  Mohur Extrait.

Maria Candida Gentile - Burlesque

Picture: Perfumer Maria Candida Gentile
started to create her own rosewater as a little girl.
Photo: This cute photo of Maria is published on her website
(c) Maria Candida Gentile

The initial impression of Burlesque is like a candied iris accord, enhanced by dark, balsamic notes. There are also swirls of a light incense which performs in an almost sweet woody accord, for a while this part smells like wood from a juniper bush. Burlesque smehow reminds me of a balanced and non-excessive L'Artisan Explotions D'Emontions Skin on Skin. Later on, there is a light cosmetic note shining through in Burlesque, combined with a touch of gunpowder. There is something that reminds me a bit of a clean interpreation of Etat Libre d'Orange Putain des Palaces. The longer in the drydown, the more the beautiful blended patchoulinote comes forward. The patchouli is warm, smooth a bit sweet and almost light herbal. There are absoluetly no harsh or dusty impression from the patchouli. Burlesque is my favorite from the three tested from the Exclusive Collection, very pleasant and in the same time intresting to wear during a whole workday. As a perfume the sillage is close, a real wristsniffer where interesting things going on. Longevity about a day. 

Rating: 5

Notes: Blood orange, iris, rose, patchouli, incense

Thanks to Fragance & Art for the sample to test 

Maria Candida Gentile - Lady Day

Picture: Billie Holiday (1915-1959),
Photo: PR  (Getty) (c)

Lady Day starts intriguing with a cold, dry, cold flower (gardenia) complemented with almost tarry, leathery notes. As Lady Day dries down the gardenia comes forward, the composition becomes warmer and almost balsamic. From the middle to the base Lady Day reminds me of a gentler and less sweet version of the early 2000nd Bertrand Duchaufour creation for Lalique Flora Bella. As I like Flora Bella, Lady Day is also a very nice acquaintance. Just as Serge Lutens Une Voix Noire, Lady Day is a tribute to Billie Holiday and I think both fragrances are appropriate as such; Lady Day mirrors the positive sides of Billies life symbolized by the characteristic gardenia worn by her, Une Voix Noire the darker sides with the decaying interpretation of the flower.

I can image Lady Day as a perfect companion warm and humid summerevenings in the tropics but also for the dark nights of August up here in the North. Medium longevity, lasts for a workingday, and close sillage as this is an extrait.

Rating: 4

Notes: Galbanum, gardenia, peru balsam

Thanks to Fragance & Art for the sample to test 

Maria Candida Gentile - Luberon

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Lately I've tested some fragrances from Maria Candida Gentile, an Italian perfumer who's creations I really appreciate, see my reviews of some of the earlier releases Exultat, Hanbury, Barry Lyndon, Cinabre, Sideris. This week I'll write about my impressions of three fragrances from the Exclusive Collection and starts with the lavender beauty Luberon.

Luberon is inspired of the lavenderfields in the Provencale region with the same name. Trying it, I can imagine cycling around the lavendelfields a sunny summerday  inhaling the wonderful herbal-flowery scent. Luberon starts with the most natural smelling lavenderaccord, reminicent of the lanvender gold standard in the genre, Caldey Island Lavendel (swe). After a while tha lavender blend with other notes and becomes almost chalky-oily, a bit similar to a light petrolnote, maybe the minty leaves creates this effect together with the lavender. The rose nor the woody note is noticable as a separate notes, it's the beautiful lavender which dominates during the whole drydown. The longevity is very good for a lavenderfragrance, it lasts for a whole day performing outdoor activities, which also is the right setting for Luberon. Where Caldey Island Lavendel is musky in the base, Luberon is of a drier, woodier character.

Rating: 4

Notes: Lavender, rose, mint, oakmoss, cedar

Thanks to Fragance & Art for the sample to test 

Fragrance(s) of the week (14) 2014 - Kilian and more....

Picture: Kilian Hennessy,
the founder of  ByKilian
Photo: PR ByKilian (c)

Today I'm testing one of the new ByKilans from the Asian Tales collection: Sacred Wood. A great fragrance which I'll review when I have tried it a few more times. This week, I entered the Kilian-universe again, wearing the delicious honeyed tobacco Back to Black which has been neglected for too long. This made me think of one of my favorites flowers last summer, Water Caligraphy which is a fragrance that I have grown to love. See my updated review. The other floral favorites last summer was Annick Goutal Néroli (the discontinued Edt) and the perfect pink rose Rose Perfection by Robert Piguet. Now I'm longing for summer and the fragrance summer wardrobe.

PS: What a coincidence, the two "coverboys" of the perfume world, Pierre Guillaume and Kilian Hennessy in two entries in a row :-)

Parfumerie Générale - Isparta 26

Picture: Pierre Guillaume
Photo: PR Parfumerie Générale (c)

As almost always when reviewing something from Parfumerie Générale it's hard to resist publish a picture of the perfumer Pierre Guillaume himself :-)

But now over to todays subject, Pierres latest release, a beautiful dark rose named Isparta 26. Isparta is named after the turkish province which roses produces superior roseoils, featured in this fragrance and 26 as PG:s numbered collection now has reached that number of fragrances.

Just reading about the ingredients of Isparta makes me excited. I have to admit that I'm very fond of the rose-patchouli-ambroxan combination in fragrances such as Juliette Has a Gun Lady Vengeance and Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady, and this accord, in Isparta combined with balsamic and animalic accords, makes me drool.

Isparta starts heavy but in the same time transparent and light, the rose is really purple, and the rosy smell is a bit tart and as a contrast it's surrounded by a not too sweet, jammy note. A clean, cold patchouli is also contrasting with a high and clear darkness, just as the night sky a starry night. As Isparta dries down it becomes a bit warmer, even if it remains in the cold spectrum, with balsamic and woody notes, among them a well balanced oud. The clean amber, the ambroxan is not as evident as in Portrait of a Lady, in Isparta it is handled with a lighter hand. In the basenote there is also a moisty, mossy note thar togeter with the tart, purple rose are contrasting the ambrox-oud combo. The mossy note together with the rose is what is left after 24h. The moss in this stage reminds me of the refreshing and uplifting mossy note of Parfumerie Générale Papyrus de Ciane.

Picture: Isparta, a dramatic, dark, purple rose
Photo: PR Parfumerie Générale (c)
  

I have read some comment that Isparta doesn't add anything new to the rosegenre. I have to strongly disagree as IMHO this is an unusual combination of the strong and intense but in the same time airy and light. In texture Isparta is just as an exquisite, purple silk veil with silverstitches and embroderies. That image makes me think of another beautiful purple rose, Neela Vermeire Creations Mohur Extrait, which seems to be Ispartas antithesis in the purple, rosy spectrum. Mohur is like a dense, smooth, purple silk velvet with golden stiches and embroderies as opposed to the light, transparent, sliver silk veil of Isparta. Even if these purples of course are not smelling the same, Mohur Extrait (which is more spicy and flowery than Isparta) somehow reminds me much more of Isparta than the more obvious (when reading about its notes) ambrox-rose-patchouli Portrait of a Lady. Just as Mohur, Isparta gives me images of a relaxed, life i luxury, somewhere in the East, during the time of Thousand and one nights.

Despite its light texture, Isparta 26  is strong in its concentration and one have to be careful when applying, too much and Isparta transforms to a sillagemonster. About four spritses is enough of Isparta to keep it within the limit of officetolerable. Sillage is great and longevity for days if more than the four spritses is applied :-)

Rating: 5

Notes: Red berries, rose, peru balsam, calamus, patchouli, olibanum, benzoin, oud, ambroxan, moss

Vero Profumo Voile d'Extraits - Summary

Picture: Vero Kern with her Mito Edp
Photo: PR Vero Profumo (c)

My conclusion from testing the Volies d'Extraits and comparing from my testing of the Extraits and what I remember form my earlier testings of the Edp:s is:

* The Edp and Extraits/Voiles d'Extraits are different enough to justify owning one from each category if you are a Vero aficionado.

* When it comes to the Extraits vs Voile d'Extraits there is more of a question which version to own, ie if you prefer you fragrance in the higher octaves or in the lower register of the scale.

Overall the perfumes of Vero Kern is intriguing, high quality creations with great personalities and the line is flexible enough to let everyone find his/her favorite version.

Vero Profumo - Kiki Voile d'Extrait

Picture: Mr Dunfords Champion wirehaired Foxterrier
Arthur Wardle early twentieth century painting

Over the years, Kiki both in Extrait and Edp has grown to be my favorite fragrance from Vero Kern, dethrone Rubj to be number two. Therefore it was of course very intruiging to test Kiki in the Voile d'Extrait version.

Kiki in Extrait is an multifacetted fragrance with notes of lavender and some notes that reminds me of wheat and beer notes over a dark, fresh earthy accord in the basenotes. Review here. The Edp version is almost gourmand in style and the passionfruitnote contrasted with dark patchouli is more prounanced. Review here.

To make a long story short, I think that Kiki Voile d'Extrait is close to the extrait (just as Rubj and Onda) it just play one or two ocataves higer on the scale. The fragrance is brighter and more sparkling in its apperance and the lavender is a bit more pronounced.

All the Kikis are intriguing fragrances with new twists in each stage. Kiki is a demanding, stubborn, racy and energetic character which is never boring, just as the two (after each other) wirehaired foxterriers of my grandparents who were named Kiki.

Kiki Voile d'Extrait has a good longevity just as the extrait, over 12h. Nice to wear during autumn, winter and early spring.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, citron, black currant, passionfruit; lavender, geranium, musk, patchouli, opoponax, amber caramel

Vero Profumo - Rubj Voile d'Extrait

Picture: Bayâd singt zur Laute vor der Herrin und ihren Dienerinnen
Bild im "Die Geschichte von Bayâd und Riyâd" (« Hadîth Bayâd wa Riyâd »),
Maghrebinisches Manuskript, 13 Jh, Wkimedia Commons

Rubj Voile d'Extrait from Vero Profumo is, just as Onda Voile d'Extrait reviewed a few days ago, a lighter and brighter variation of the Extrait version of the fragrances. Rubj Voile d'Extrait is created by Vero Kern.

Rubj Voile d'Extrait starts brighter and fresher than more spicy and darker Rubj Extrait with its dirty notes of cumin. In the Voile d'Extrait, even if not mentioned in the notelist, I almost smell a note of a fresh lavender instead of the cumin. Just as in Rubj Extrait, the orangeblossom note is very beautiful, deep and full and without any syntetic wibes as in many orangeblossom fragrances. Also the jasmine is full bodied in texture, natural and blends perfectly with the orangeblossom. Even if Rubj Voile d'Extrait lays an octave or two higher than the Extrait, it also intermediate the image of resting on a couch, hiding from the heat at noon in the palace gardens of Alhambra during the days of the Moors in Al-Andalus. The Extrait is like resting in the same place in the warm and velvet dark evening, lighted by the stars, the full moon and the torches in the palacegarden, listen to the sparkling of the fountains and the music from the lute and other strings.

Overall, to my nose, Rubj Extrait is a bit more complex with its dirty, retro notes and Rubj Voile d'Extrait is easier to wear and could therefore be appreciated among a wider audience.  Rubj Voile d'Extrait is as indicated above, proper for daytime wear and the mysterious Extrait is better suited for evenings and nights even  if I don't care about such "rules" and wears the Extrait also at daytime. Longevity for both fragrances are about 12h, the Extrait a bit longer and the sillage is good, with a bit better radiance from the Voile d'Extrait.

Rating: 4+ (Extrait still 5)

Notes: Orange blossom, jasmine, musk, cumin

Vero Profumo - Onda Voile d'Extrait

Picture: Onda Voile d'Extract
Photo: PR Vero Profumo (c) 

Onda Voile d'Extrait is swiss perfumer Vero Kerns of Vero Profumo alternative interpretation of the original Onda Extrait (released 2007). To me, the Voile d'Extrait is more similar to the Extrait then the Edp with its passionfruitnote which is the characteristics for the Edp versions of Onda, Rubj and Kiki.

In both Onda Extrait and Voile d'Extrait the vetivernote is dominating and in both fragrances in a different way than in most vetiverfragrances, especially the extrait is unusual. In both fragrances the vetiver is surrounded by spices, herbs, mossy and woody elements which creates the perfect image of the smell of early spring, when the snow has just melted and the sun is warming up the soil in the forestground. That was the situation when I tested Onda Voile d'Extrait and I took a walk around the small lake in the woodland nearby. Onda Voile d'Extrait matched perfectly as well as the drops of the Extrait that I worn on my left arm as reference. When comparing the two Ondas I think the Extrait is the more difficult of the two. The Extrait starts deeper, darker and almost animalic, dirty whereas the Voile d'Extrait is ligther and more sparkling, it has more of the fizzy gingernotes where Extrait has deeper and warmer spicy notes. The Extrait is more retro in style, with powdery, a bit dirty  notes and the vetiver is seamless blended with the other ingredients. The Voile d'Extrait is clearer, the vetiver is greener and more distinct and the composition is somehow fresher in appearance. I think the Voile d'Extrait will appear to a broder public than the Extrait which is more complicated and to generalize, more of a "perfumista fragrance". I like both versions but prefer the Extrait as it is more challenging during it's developement.

Onda Voile d'Extrait is suitable for casual daytime wear but it's also good for office. It's perfect for late winter and spring, the sillage is medium and longevity for 12h+.

Those who likes vetiver fragrances such as Chanel Sycomore and L'Artisan Parfumeur Coeur de Vetiver Sacré, sharp, dark, smoky greens as Hermès Eau de Gentiane Blanche and Eau d'Italie Sienne l'Hiver will probably also appreciate Onda Voile d'Extrait.

Rating: 4  (Onda Extrait still 5 just as when I tested 2009 and 2011)

Notes: Vetiver, ginger, nutmeg, coriander

Vero Profumo - Mito Voile d'Extrait

Picture: The great swedish soprano Birgit Nilsson (1918-2005),
maybe the closest to a Diva we have had in this country of Jante. 
MitoVoile d'Extrait would have fit character as Birgit perfectly.
Photo: Gunnar Harnesk 1948, Wikimedia commons

The "Les Voile d'Extrait" sub-line from Swiss perfumer Vero Kern is another interpretation of Veros beuatiful perfumes and EDP:s Mito, Rubj, Kiki and Onda.  Just as the differences between the perfume and EDP line justifies owning both versions of the favorite, also the Voile Extrait versions are sufficiently different to justify owning also these. When it coems to Rubj, Kiki and Onda I think the Les Voiles d'Extraits are closer to the perfumes than to the EDP:s, the speical passionflower accord in the latter distinguishes the EDP:s of this three most from the perfume and the Les Voile d'Extrait-line. Mito EDP that is a later creation than the first three of the house is without this passionflowernote. But now to todays subject the stunning beauty Mito Voile d'Extrait.

Picture: The retrostyled bottle of
Mito Voile d'Extrait
Photo: PR Vero Profumo (c)

When Mito Vd'E starts the round, sunny,  fresh citrusy note of Mito is clearly present but not dominating as in Mito EDP. Instead a beautiful tubereusenote is taking the centerstage. The tubereuse is the varm, honeyed, nectarladen tubereusenote of Annick Goutal Tubereuse which smells like as I image the tubereuse flowers on the fiield during the day, exposed in the strong sunlight. Mito Vd'E is very feminine (whereas Mito EDP is more unisex) and voluptuous, a perfume for a Diva, but not the heavy diva as Fracas. Mito Vd'E is more transparent in texture and somehow a retro but  in the same time modern impression is achieved. The flowery notes which are present in the middle notes of Mito EDP for instance the magnolia are amplified in Mito Vd'E and the interaction of tubereuse and magnolia reminds me of another fragrance which combines these notes; Arquiste Flor y Canto even if the magnolia is more distinct in the latter and the combination is soapy, which is not the case with MitoVd'E. Compared to the original Mito EDP, Mito Vd'E is warmer and much more flowery, the original is a juicy citron, with distinct green and also some slight almost herbal notes and a moisty mossy base. The mossy base is also present in MitoVd'E but a bit smoother in character, or maybe just dazzled by the flowers. To compare the both Mitos: Mito EDP could be the daytime version and Mito Vd'E could be the evening/more festive version of the Mito theme.

Rating: 5

Notes: Citrus, galbanum, tubereuse, champaca, hyacinth, magnolia, peach, cypress, labdanum, moss, musk

Fragrance(s) of the week (11) - Mainstream week

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Sometimes I'm just fed up wearing and analyzing all these pretentious nichefragrances. This week I felt I had to relax during the weekdays by wearing straightforward mainstream fragrances. And of course, I couldn't stop analyze....:-)

Monday: My new favorite for spring Elie Saab Le Parfum L'Eau Couture reminds me of lily of the valley, some greenery over vanilla. Springlike crispy but in the same time warm.

Tuesday: Miss Dior Edp current version (former Miss Dior Cherie). Don't understand all the compliments about this contemporary chypre, floral, musky and light fruity. I think it's a good representative of the genre and a perfume with it's own characteristics, which are still recognizable after reforumlations, even if the strawberryflowers and the popcornnote seems to be replaced compared to the original 2005 Miss Dior Cherie release. Not many niche fragrances has a personality like this modern classic.

Wednesday: My liking for Boucheron Place Vendôme is growing. An elegant contemporary floral with contrasting notes reminiscent of airy tobaccoleaves in the basenotes. Would be perfect for spring in companion with an ivory colored, elegant, light, wollen suit, worn with a smooth silk top.

Thursday: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Edp is in the same contemporary chypre floral category (with the typical patchouli in the basenotes) as Miss Dior Edp but darker, more formal and grown up. Just as pleasant as Miss Dior to wear during a working day, but provides a more serious impression.

Friday: Nina Ricci  Nina L'Elixir is a candied version of the original Nina, sweeter with less of the uplifitng citrusy sparkle of its forerunner. Strangly, in the dry down, Nina L'Elixir suddenly starts to smell like a much sweeter, crystallized Frapin Speakeasy. Nothing wrong with this perfume but this was the let down during the week, Nina L'Elixir doesn't play in the same leauge as the other tested, or for that matter, the original Nina in in which I perceive the same comfort level as in the fragrances tested Monday-Thursday.

Now I have to plan my next "theme-week", a week in Guerlain could be something....

Olivier Durbano - Heliotrophe

Picture: A bottle of Heliotrophe with the bloodstones (heliotrophes)
which are the inspiration for the fragrance
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c) 

Heliotrophe or bloodstone is the semiprecious stone that inspiered to this red and warm perfume from Olivier Durbano.

Heliotrophe starts balsamic, with a hint of mandarine and a smell similar to red "autumberry" notes such as cranberries and rowan berries. There is also a tender, juicy, spiciness present combined with an almost powdery slight vanillic note, probably the heliotrophe (flower). After a while a herbal impression also appears. The herbal note creates a slight medical impression. In its earlier stages, Heliotrophe reminds me of Serge Lutens Chypre Rouge. Later Heliotrophe deepens and gets warmer with a light saffronnote which interacts with the resins and woods in different layers of the perfume, just as the incense typical for all the perfumes in the Bijoux Pierre Poemes. Heliotrophe is the smells from the forest with it's morass' a sunny day in the early autumn.

Picture: Another peace of inspiration to Heliotrophe
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)

Heliotrophe is another outdoor fragrance from Olivier Durbano. Not as extreme as the ultimate fragrance for outdoor life, Black Tourmaline (see earlier review) instead a softer, gentler and friendlier one, easier to wear and suitable also for work. The sillage of Heliotrophe is close and longevity for less then a day. On fabric Heliotrophe lasts much longer and its character strangely enough shows off better on fabric then on my skin. Even if a bit tame compared to the other testes Durbanos, it's an original scent well worth testing.

Rating:3+

Notes: Elemi, olibanum, ginger, blood mandarin, angelica, chili pepper; saffron, magnolia, nagarmotha, heliotrope, myrrh, cedar, sandalwood, musk, ambergris, benzoin

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample

Olivier Durbano - Black Tourmaline

Picture: Black Tourmaline by Olivier Durbano
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)
This also applies to the pictures below

Black Tourmaline is another fascinating fragrance from the jewellery/perfumehouse Olivier Durbano. It's one of the earliest releases of the house and a part of the Bijoux de Pierres Pòemes which is fragrances inspired from different semi-precious stones.

Black Tourmaline starts heavy with a very  natural smelling tar-note. Soon Black Tourmaline smells like an Isle whisky, with its notes of tar and turf with a tad of smoke. The incense is interplaying well blended with the other notes. As Black Tourmaline dries down the tarry wood notes are softened by different dry spicy notes. There is also a hint of a quite rough leather but not as rough as in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Cuir which is the fragrance that I find most similar to Black Tourmaline, Cuir is almost a sort of turned up follower of  Black Tourmaline, even if Cuir also have the original smoky note that resembles grilled meat. Cuir is overall a stronger and heavier perfume. In the basenotes the dark and potent notes of Black Tourmaline are offsetted by an accord similar to the smell of the forest floor which provides the fragrance a sort of aronatic, fresh and clear expression. I guess this is achieved by the mossy and patchoulinotes interacting with the spices. To me Black Tourmaline is totally unsweet, opposed to MdO Cuir which have some resin sweetness. Sometimes I find such total lack of sweetness i a perfume as a relief.

Black Tourmaline is, just as MdO Cuir, a sort of "outdoor perfume" a fragrance which immediately gives me associations to the autumnal hunt in the swedish forests. The woody and damp smells from the forest, the smoke from the campfire when taking the lunchbreak, the smell from the well oiled riefles and smeared leathery guncases, the woolen, moleskin and leathery smells from the clothes. Black Tourmaline is a unisex fragrance not leaning either to the masculine or feminine side as opposite to MdO Cuir which I find very masculine. It's a perfume for daytime casual wear but could be worn to work if very sparingly applied, this is potent stuff. Sillage is medium and longevity for 12h+.

Black Tourmaline could  be appreciated by those who likes Amouage Interlude Man, Carner Barcelona Cuirs and Nasomatto Black Afgano.

Rating: 5

Notes: Cardamom, coriander, cumin, frankincense, pepper, smoked wood, oud, leather, precious woods, musk, amber, moss, patchouli

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Olivier Durbano - Pink Quartz

Picture: An elephant carved in rose quartz
Wikimedia commons

Pink Quartz from Olivier Durbano Parfums de Pierre Poemes dedicated to semiprecious stones starts pink/grey velvety rosy paired with a sort of dry, opaque stoney note. In the topnotes, Pink Quartz is uplifting and a bit sparkling and the rose is very natural smelling and true to the real rose scent. When the fragrance dries down, a small trace of incense, spice, balsamic and musky notes deepens and darkens the unconventional rose/stone combo. This combo is the core of the fragrance and apperant in all stages of the dry down. In the basenotes there is also a tangy, slight fizzy note which I so appreciate in rosefragrances and which gives them a touch of chypre. There is also a subtle smoky nuance in the base and a very light sweetness from the resins. If Pink Quartz had a color it's definitly the almost opaque, pale pink/grey of the pink quartz mineral. If it was a fabric, it would be a pale, powdery, pink quartz colored velvet.

Pink Quartz is very intriguing, probably (as the notelist indicate) all the wellbalanced ingredients creates this impression. Pink Quartz is a true unisexfragrance and IMO it lending to the masculine side, here is a rose (without oud) for men. Despite this, it's pleasant also for a woman to wear, an  exception when it comes to pink roses as it is not as sweet as most pink fragrances.. Sillage is close and longevity for 12h+, an exellent choice for the early spring.

Picture: The tempting Pink Quartz
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)

Pink Quartz could be appreciated by those who likes pink roses with some deept and without the conventional sweetness fragrances such as Parfum d'Empire Eau Suave even if that one is a tad fruity. To me pink Quartz is sort of the masculine counterpart of Eau Suave. Just as the latter (on of my alltime favorite pink roses) Pink Quartz is a little gem.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, pink grapefruit, olibanum, saffron, ginger; palmarosa, damask rose, palisander rosewood, rose, amber, patchouli, myrrh, benzoin, white musk

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample 

Springtime fragrances

Soon they're here!
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

This year spring is very early, or at least the late winter is springlike some of the days. Of course there was almost no winter this year which is a great relief in everyday life. Anyway, this brings out this brings out the craving after springfragrances, such as:

Foin Fraîchement Coupé (Oriza L.Legrand): Starts fizzy, light green over dry haynotes, clover and herbs. Deepens in a sweeter, almost anise-liqueur-like light musky note. Comnines rual, green freshness with a delicate, sweet. light gourmand accord. Excellent longevity, I can smell whiffs from this fragrance from the dept of my skin days after I worn FFC.

Le Parfum  L'Eau Couture (Elie Saab): From the very moment when the first molecules hit my skin when testing LPL'EC I knew this is a must have. Starts bright and springlike, with an accord reminiscent of an almondy and not so cold Lily of the Valley, even if the notelist says magnolia. The classical Kurkdjian/Saab orangeblossom accord is also there but not as highlighted as in the original Le Perfum. A light vanilla complements the flowers perfectly. This is a reminder: Never underestimate "the mainstreams". Many of them are much better than all of the anxious complicated fragrances which are too many in the tide of nicherealeases.

Forever and Ever Dior (Christian Dior): This is a fragrance which I have neglected to try for a decade because of its silly name. It was displayed when I passed through a perfumestore and I tested it and fell immadiately for its light, bright, pink, rosy and crisp flowery charm. An elegant and very wearable springfragrance for ladies of all ages.

L'Heure Bleue (Guerlain): I think I mentioned L'HB in my list of springfragrances last year too. Every late winter/early spring I long a bit extra for this magic velvet dark blue, dusty, iris-neroli-heliotrophe-tonka elixir in all of its concentrations. L'HB is a fragrance which never loses its interest and which I appreciate even better the more I sniff from the flood of new fragrances.

Onda (Vero Profumo): Like taking a walk over the fields when the snow just has melted. The smell of earth, mud and the grass of yesteryear with light animalic whiffs from the horses on the barnyard nearby. (Onda Extrait & Voile d'Extrait).

Which fragrances do you perfer for spring?

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Quick impressions of some classic L'AP:s 2(2)

More impressions from my random L'Artisan samples sniffing. Today from the lighter fragrances department:

Picture: Thé pour un Été,
refreshing, retro jasmine
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

Coeur de Vetiver Sacré: A creation of Karine Vinchon Spehner from as late as 2010 which seems to have flopped as it would be discontinued if I have understand i right. Despite the name that indicate this is a vetiver dominated fragrance, the said note is discrete and interacting in a subtle and wellbalanced way with incense, spices, light fruity and woody notes. Calming and relaxing and a bit misunderstod IMO.

Thé pour un Été: A creation from the era of fresh perfumes, the 90s (1995), by Olivia Giacobetti. A refreshing jasminetea blend with some lemony sparkle and contrasted with a very light spicyness. TpuE has a certain retro feeling, when I smell it I immediately come to think of Catherine Deneuve in the movie Indochine from the colonial French Indochina. TpuE is gentler and doesn't get the smell as much of wet wipe that is common in many tea fragrances form the era, for example the iconic Bulgari Eau Parfumeé au Thé Vert. TpuE seems also to be a gentler forerunner to another jasmine-tea-spicy fragrance Dior Escale à Pondichéry.

Verte Violette: A bit strange 2001 violet creation by Anne Flipo. Starts smelling like Yves Saint Laurent Paris and after a while a note of water melon appears and adds an aquatic but also vegetal impression.When it alls calms down, a beautiful, sleek, violet flower note remains. In the same group as Annick Goutal La Violette which is (despite the name) greener and with a crispy candy feeling and Parfums de Nicolaï Violette in Love which is more fruity/sparkling.

To summon up: In the flood of all new releases, don't forget to look back and revaluate the old gems from the fragrance houses which has stood the test of time.

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Quick impressions of some classic L'AP:s 1(2)

Picture: One of the L'Artisans,
Drôle de Rose
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

After becoming disappointed with the new sub-line L'Explosions de Emotions from the old (one of the very first niche-houses, only Diptyque was earlier) reaible L'Artisan Parfumeur, I had to test/re-test some of my samples from the house to get my confidence back. Below some quick impressions of some classic L'Artisans from different genres.

Bois Farine: A 2003 Jean-Claude Ellena inspiration from an unusual tree in the Caribbian. Sweet, powdery, like flour, woody with some spices. The opening smells like peanutbutter. Delicious, mouthwatering and comforting (if properly dosed) to wear cold and grey days. Unfortunately Bois Farine now is discontinued, so it's time to stock up.

Voleur de Roses: Created by Michel Almairac as early as 1993 and it's a forerunner to the whole dark, earthy, moisty, dark, red rose and patchouli that I like so much. VdR is somehow the unpolished gem (ruby) of the genre the patchouli is dirtier and moistier, the red rose is darker and bolder than in the more polished followers such as Guerlain Rose Barbare, Juliette has A Gun Lady Vengeance, and Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady.

Drôle de Rose: A powdery, cosmetic, lemony, cherful, sunny take on the combined violet and pink rose theme, created by Olivia Giacobetti in 1996. Also a forerunner to fragrances such as Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose which more formal in appearance and with more pronounced violet than in DdR and Etat Libre d'Orange Putain des Palaces which is a dramatic, dark and dirty variation of violet-rose.

To be continued in the next post.

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Explosions D'Émotions 2 (2)

Today impressions of the two remaining Explosions D'Emotions.

Picture: Skin on Skin
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

Skin on Skin "a wanton embrace" also for this fragrance the marketing blurb is fitting. Skin on Skin embraces you with an obtrusive, chemical candynote which interplays with a sweet irisnote, passably dimmed with soft saffron somewhere in the middle of the fragrance and moved to a note similar to hairspray. A musky, smoky (probably the Whisky mentioned among the ingredients) suede is lurking in the background, contrasting the hairspray and the sweet  notes. As the fragrance is strong and shrill, one should be careful with application. Skin on Skin seems almost as sort of an experimental mockery of a great iris-suede as Histoires de Parfums Tubereuse 1 Capricieuse which, despite its name, foremost is an iris-suede with gourmand accords of cacao and saffron. Skin on Skin could also be one of the sketches to Duchaufours own L'Artisan creation Traverseé du Bosphore. 

Picture: Amour Nocturne
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

Amour Nocturne "the intimacy of the night" Amour Nocturne shocks with a loud and garish chemical note of cocos + milk chocolate like a liquid Bounty Bar. As it dries down to the middle- and basenotes, the scent softens and a milky accord infused  with some sweet candynotes contrasted with a dry burned (probably hints of the gunpowdernote), plastic slight flowery note (as in Parfumerie Generale Psychotrope but I like the latter much better)  dominates the fragrance until it's fading out about 24h after the initial application. After going through the jarring top notes, Amour Nocturne despite or maybe because of the burned, plastic  is quite pleasant and comforting to wear in a small dose. Just as with Skin on Skin: Beware to overapply this!

To sum it all up: Probably I'm too old school and doesen't understand anything from this avantgarde(?) creating: Probably I also have a too ironic mind because when sampling Explosions D'Émotions I almost suspect Bertrand Duchaufour for making fun of his public and the current exalting of niche, taking it too serious. After all, these fragrances are more expensive than the IMO overall much better L'Artisans in the regular line. Seems like he's taking the concept a famous name (the perfumer and brand) + nice bottle + an OK juice + some "exclusive" marketing chit-chat to the extreme. An interesting concept and the fragrances as such is very well worth sampling (thanks to Fragrance & Art for the samples) as a reflection of the state of niche today or just to find an unconventional and (in some phases of them if applied sparingly) comforting fragrance.

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Explosions D'Émotions 1(2)

The Expolsions D'Émotions trio are fragrances signed Bertrand Duchaufour for L'Artisan Parfumeur that must have been created with the intention to provoke the smell of sense. The fragrances are wellcrafted and unconventional, and seems to be almost a sort of experimental fragrances ie nothing for daily wearing but something to stuck in and analyze a day staying at home. Explosions D'Émotions are bottled in a new stylish design of the L'Artisan bottles.

Picture: Déliria
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

Déliria "exhilaration of the senses" according to L'Artisan marketing blurb and that's true. Déliria starts with a note close to sweet pinapple (BD inspired from Jean Patou Colony?)contrasted with the dry, dirty, unaired ambernote that is present in one of my favorite ambers, L'Ombre Fauve from Parfumerie Générale. After the contrasting opening, Déliria proceeds in a bubblegum note close to the classical pink, swedish bubblegum namned Bugg. Then the sweet notes are more nondescript, its more of a candystore and later the fragrance softens, like the note of candyfloss. The candy notes are darker, deeper and better blended then the regular sweet candy fragrance, a more serious interpretation of this pink-sugary genre.

To be continued in the next post.....

Etat Libre d'Orange - La Fine du Monde

Picture: A scene from the last phase of Ragnarök (1905)
Painting by Emil Doepler (1855-1922)

Who could imagine the Armageddon so quiet and undramatic, almost relaxing? I image chaos, horror and fear but this is not what is expressed in the latest Etat Libre d'Orange fragrance La Fin du Monde created by Quentin Bisch .

La Fin du Monde starts with an iris accord emphasize the rooty, carrot smell. But the carrot isn't raw, instead it's softer, like stewed carrot, an impression that I also get from Huitèime Art Naiviris but in the latter the stewed impression is more intense. After a while a smooth peppery, fizzy, spicy note come up, probably the pepper/cummin. The cummin seems to be a stripped down version, without the sweat (strange that the sweatish component is missing when thinking about the dramatic inspiration for La Fin du Monde). Then a torrid, slight burned note appears, a light interpretation of gunpowder. A sweet, a bit nutty note, reminding me of a almondcake glimpses by, contrasting in the dry, black lead-like accord. In the next stage a slight salty nuance appears and soon a mild popcornnote arrives. The popcorn is gentle and natural in style compared to the candied popcorn note in Miss Dior Cherie (original 2005 version). The composition is grounded in a light, very dry woody-resin base, with the soft gunpowdernote continuously present. The gunpowdernote is much more soft than in fragrances such as Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Ambre or in Lorenzo Villoresi Teint de Neige.

The overall impression of La Fine du Monde is a connection to another recent gunpowdery-slight gourmand interpreation: Amour Nocturne by L'Artisan Parfumeur (an analyze will be published in the coming weeks), but it seems as the names are interchanged.La Fin du Monde is soft, quiet and balanced compared to the much stronger, louder and chaotic Amour Nocturne, which seems to be an experimental and provoking fragrance. La Fin du Monde on the other hand, is very wearable, pleasant and officefriendly, a fragrance many could like, not as extreme as the earlier ELd'O fragrances. When wearing La Fin du Monde, I spontaneously received very positive remarks from when it comes to perfume fastidious Mr Parfumista. La Fin du Monde has close sillage and good longevity, about 12h.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Popocorn, carrot seeds, cumin, sesame, black pepper, freesia, vetiver, sandalwood, ambrette, iris, styrax and gunpowder.

Thanks to Riktig Parfym for the sample.