Vero Profumo - Rubj Voile d'Extrait

Picture: Bayâd singt zur Laute vor der Herrin und ihren Dienerinnen
Bild im "Die Geschichte von Bayâd und Riyâd" (« Hadîth Bayâd wa Riyâd »),
Maghrebinisches Manuskript, 13 Jh, Wkimedia Commons

Rubj Voile d'Extrait from Vero Profumo is, just as Onda Voile d'Extrait reviewed a few days ago, a lighter and brighter variation of the Extrait version of the fragrances. Rubj Voile d'Extrait is created by Vero Kern.

Rubj Voile d'Extrait starts brighter and fresher than more spicy and darker Rubj Extrait with its dirty notes of cumin. In the Voile d'Extrait, even if not mentioned in the notelist, I almost smell a note of a fresh lavender instead of the cumin. Just as in Rubj Extrait, the orangeblossom note is very beautiful, deep and full and without any syntetic wibes as in many orangeblossom fragrances. Also the jasmine is full bodied in texture, natural and blends perfectly with the orangeblossom. Even if Rubj Voile d'Extrait lays an octave or two higher than the Extrait, it also intermediate the image of resting on a couch, hiding from the heat at noon in the palace gardens of Alhambra during the days of the Moors in Al-Andalus. The Extrait is like resting in the same place in the warm and velvet dark evening, lighted by the stars, the full moon and the torches in the palacegarden, listen to the sparkling of the fountains and the music from the lute and other strings.

Overall, to my nose, Rubj Extrait is a bit more complex with its dirty, retro notes and Rubj Voile d'Extrait is easier to wear and could therefore be appreciated among a wider audience.  Rubj Voile d'Extrait is as indicated above, proper for daytime wear and the mysterious Extrait is better suited for evenings and nights even  if I don't care about such "rules" and wears the Extrait also at daytime. Longevity for both fragrances are about 12h, the Extrait a bit longer and the sillage is good, with a bit better radiance from the Voile d'Extrait.

Rating: 4+ (Extrait still 5)

Notes: Orange blossom, jasmine, musk, cumin

Vero Profumo - Onda Voile d'Extrait

Picture: Onda Voile d'Extract
Photo: PR Vero Profumo (c) 

Onda Voile d'Extrait is swiss perfumer Vero Kerns of Vero Profumo alternative interpretation of the original Onda Extrait (released 2007). To me, the Voile d'Extrait is more similar to the Extrait then the Edp with its passionfruitnote which is the characteristics for the Edp versions of Onda, Rubj and Kiki.

In both Onda Extrait and Voile d'Extrait the vetivernote is dominating and in both fragrances in a different way than in most vetiverfragrances, especially the extrait is unusual. In both fragrances the vetiver is surrounded by spices, herbs, mossy and woody elements which creates the perfect image of the smell of early spring, when the snow has just melted and the sun is warming up the soil in the forestground. That was the situation when I tested Onda Voile d'Extrait and I took a walk around the small lake in the woodland nearby. Onda Voile d'Extrait matched perfectly as well as the drops of the Extrait that I worn on my left arm as reference. When comparing the two Ondas I think the Extrait is the more difficult of the two. The Extrait starts deeper, darker and almost animalic, dirty whereas the Voile d'Extrait is ligther and more sparkling, it has more of the fizzy gingernotes where Extrait has deeper and warmer spicy notes. The Extrait is more retro in style, with powdery, a bit dirty  notes and the vetiver is seamless blended with the other ingredients. The Voile d'Extrait is clearer, the vetiver is greener and more distinct and the composition is somehow fresher in appearance. I think the Voile d'Extrait will appear to a broder public than the Extrait which is more complicated and to generalize, more of a "perfumista fragrance". I like both versions but prefer the Extrait as it is more challenging during it's developement.

Onda Voile d'Extrait is suitable for casual daytime wear but it's also good for office. It's perfect for late winter and spring, the sillage is medium and longevity for 12h+.

Those who likes vetiver fragrances such as Chanel Sycomore and L'Artisan Parfumeur Coeur de Vetiver Sacré, sharp, dark, smoky greens as Hermès Eau de Gentiane Blanche and Eau d'Italie Sienne l'Hiver will probably also appreciate Onda Voile d'Extrait.

Rating: 4  (Onda Extrait still 5 just as when I tested 2009 and 2011)

Notes: Vetiver, ginger, nutmeg, coriander

Vero Profumo - Mito Voile d'Extrait

Picture: The great swedish soprano Birgit Nilsson (1918-2005),
maybe the closest to a Diva we have had in this country of Jante. 
MitoVoile d'Extrait would have fit character as Birgit perfectly.
Photo: Gunnar Harnesk 1948, Wikimedia commons

The "Les Voile d'Extrait" sub-line from Swiss perfumer Vero Kern is another interpretation of Veros beuatiful perfumes and EDP:s Mito, Rubj, Kiki and Onda.  Just as the differences between the perfume and EDP line justifies owning both versions of the favorite, also the Voile Extrait versions are sufficiently different to justify owning also these. When it coems to Rubj, Kiki and Onda I think the Les Voiles d'Extraits are closer to the perfumes than to the EDP:s, the speical passionflower accord in the latter distinguishes the EDP:s of this three most from the perfume and the Les Voile d'Extrait-line. Mito EDP that is a later creation than the first three of the house is without this passionflowernote. But now to todays subject the stunning beauty Mito Voile d'Extrait.

Picture: The retrostyled bottle of
Mito Voile d'Extrait
Photo: PR Vero Profumo (c)

When Mito Vd'E starts the round, sunny,  fresh citrusy note of Mito is clearly present but not dominating as in Mito EDP. Instead a beautiful tubereusenote is taking the centerstage. The tubereuse is the varm, honeyed, nectarladen tubereusenote of Annick Goutal Tubereuse which smells like as I image the tubereuse flowers on the fiield during the day, exposed in the strong sunlight. Mito Vd'E is very feminine (whereas Mito EDP is more unisex) and voluptuous, a perfume for a Diva, but not the heavy diva as Fracas. Mito Vd'E is more transparent in texture and somehow a retro but  in the same time modern impression is achieved. The flowery notes which are present in the middle notes of Mito EDP for instance the magnolia are amplified in Mito Vd'E and the interaction of tubereuse and magnolia reminds me of another fragrance which combines these notes; Arquiste Flor y Canto even if the magnolia is more distinct in the latter and the combination is soapy, which is not the case with MitoVd'E. Compared to the original Mito EDP, Mito Vd'E is warmer and much more flowery, the original is a juicy citron, with distinct green and also some slight almost herbal notes and a moisty mossy base. The mossy base is also present in MitoVd'E but a bit smoother in character, or maybe just dazzled by the flowers. To compare the both Mitos: Mito EDP could be the daytime version and Mito Vd'E could be the evening/more festive version of the Mito theme.

Rating: 5

Notes: Citrus, galbanum, tubereuse, champaca, hyacinth, magnolia, peach, cypress, labdanum, moss, musk

Fragrance(s) of the week (11) - Mainstream week

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Sometimes I'm just fed up wearing and analyzing all these pretentious nichefragrances. This week I felt I had to relax during the weekdays by wearing straightforward mainstream fragrances. And of course, I couldn't stop analyze....:-)

Monday: My new favorite for spring Elie Saab Le Parfum L'Eau Couture reminds me of lily of the valley, some greenery over vanilla. Springlike crispy but in the same time warm.

Tuesday: Miss Dior Edp current version (former Miss Dior Cherie). Don't understand all the compliments about this contemporary chypre, floral, musky and light fruity. I think it's a good representative of the genre and a perfume with it's own characteristics, which are still recognizable after reforumlations, even if the strawberryflowers and the popcornnote seems to be replaced compared to the original 2005 Miss Dior Cherie release. Not many niche fragrances has a personality like this modern classic.

Wednesday: My liking for Boucheron Place Vendôme is growing. An elegant contemporary floral with contrasting notes reminiscent of airy tobaccoleaves in the basenotes. Would be perfect for spring in companion with an ivory colored, elegant, light, wollen suit, worn with a smooth silk top.

Thursday: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Edp is in the same contemporary chypre floral category (with the typical patchouli in the basenotes) as Miss Dior Edp but darker, more formal and grown up. Just as pleasant as Miss Dior to wear during a working day, but provides a more serious impression.

Friday: Nina Ricci  Nina L'Elixir is a candied version of the original Nina, sweeter with less of the uplifitng citrusy sparkle of its forerunner. Strangly, in the dry down, Nina L'Elixir suddenly starts to smell like a much sweeter, crystallized Frapin Speakeasy. Nothing wrong with this perfume but this was the let down during the week, Nina L'Elixir doesn't play in the same leauge as the other tested, or for that matter, the original Nina in in which I perceive the same comfort level as in the fragrances tested Monday-Thursday.

Now I have to plan my next "theme-week", a week in Guerlain could be something....

Olivier Durbano - Heliotrophe

Picture: A bottle of Heliotrophe with the bloodstones (heliotrophes)
which are the inspiration for the fragrance
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c) 

Heliotrophe or bloodstone is the semiprecious stone that inspiered to this red and warm perfume from Olivier Durbano.

Heliotrophe starts balsamic, with a hint of mandarine and a smell similar to red "autumberry" notes such as cranberries and rowan berries. There is also a tender, juicy, spiciness present combined with an almost powdery slight vanillic note, probably the heliotrophe (flower). After a while a herbal impression also appears. The herbal note creates a slight medical impression. In its earlier stages, Heliotrophe reminds me of Serge Lutens Chypre Rouge. Later Heliotrophe deepens and gets warmer with a light saffronnote which interacts with the resins and woods in different layers of the perfume, just as the incense typical for all the perfumes in the Bijoux Pierre Poemes. Heliotrophe is the smells from the forest with it's morass' a sunny day in the early autumn.

Picture: Another peace of inspiration to Heliotrophe
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)

Heliotrophe is another outdoor fragrance from Olivier Durbano. Not as extreme as the ultimate fragrance for outdoor life, Black Tourmaline (see earlier review) instead a softer, gentler and friendlier one, easier to wear and suitable also for work. The sillage of Heliotrophe is close and longevity for less then a day. On fabric Heliotrophe lasts much longer and its character strangely enough shows off better on fabric then on my skin. Even if a bit tame compared to the other testes Durbanos, it's an original scent well worth testing.

Rating:3+

Notes: Elemi, olibanum, ginger, blood mandarin, angelica, chili pepper; saffron, magnolia, nagarmotha, heliotrope, myrrh, cedar, sandalwood, musk, ambergris, benzoin

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample

Olivier Durbano - Black Tourmaline

Picture: Black Tourmaline by Olivier Durbano
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)
This also applies to the pictures below

Black Tourmaline is another fascinating fragrance from the jewellery/perfumehouse Olivier Durbano. It's one of the earliest releases of the house and a part of the Bijoux de Pierres Pòemes which is fragrances inspired from different semi-precious stones.

Black Tourmaline starts heavy with a very  natural smelling tar-note. Soon Black Tourmaline smells like an Isle whisky, with its notes of tar and turf with a tad of smoke. The incense is interplaying well blended with the other notes. As Black Tourmaline dries down the tarry wood notes are softened by different dry spicy notes. There is also a hint of a quite rough leather but not as rough as in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Cuir which is the fragrance that I find most similar to Black Tourmaline, Cuir is almost a sort of turned up follower of  Black Tourmaline, even if Cuir also have the original smoky note that resembles grilled meat. Cuir is overall a stronger and heavier perfume. In the basenotes the dark and potent notes of Black Tourmaline are offsetted by an accord similar to the smell of the forest floor which provides the fragrance a sort of aronatic, fresh and clear expression. I guess this is achieved by the mossy and patchoulinotes interacting with the spices. To me Black Tourmaline is totally unsweet, opposed to MdO Cuir which have some resin sweetness. Sometimes I find such total lack of sweetness i a perfume as a relief.

Black Tourmaline is, just as MdO Cuir, a sort of "outdoor perfume" a fragrance which immediately gives me associations to the autumnal hunt in the swedish forests. The woody and damp smells from the forest, the smoke from the campfire when taking the lunchbreak, the smell from the well oiled riefles and smeared leathery guncases, the woolen, moleskin and leathery smells from the clothes. Black Tourmaline is a unisex fragrance not leaning either to the masculine or feminine side as opposite to MdO Cuir which I find very masculine. It's a perfume for daytime casual wear but could be worn to work if very sparingly applied, this is potent stuff. Sillage is medium and longevity for 12h+.

Black Tourmaline could  be appreciated by those who likes Amouage Interlude Man, Carner Barcelona Cuirs and Nasomatto Black Afgano.

Rating: 5

Notes: Cardamom, coriander, cumin, frankincense, pepper, smoked wood, oud, leather, precious woods, musk, amber, moss, patchouli

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Olivier Durbano - Pink Quartz

Picture: An elephant carved in rose quartz
Wikimedia commons

Pink Quartz from Olivier Durbano Parfums de Pierre Poemes dedicated to semiprecious stones starts pink/grey velvety rosy paired with a sort of dry, opaque stoney note. In the topnotes, Pink Quartz is uplifting and a bit sparkling and the rose is very natural smelling and true to the real rose scent. When the fragrance dries down, a small trace of incense, spice, balsamic and musky notes deepens and darkens the unconventional rose/stone combo. This combo is the core of the fragrance and apperant in all stages of the dry down. In the basenotes there is also a tangy, slight fizzy note which I so appreciate in rosefragrances and which gives them a touch of chypre. There is also a subtle smoky nuance in the base and a very light sweetness from the resins. If Pink Quartz had a color it's definitly the almost opaque, pale pink/grey of the pink quartz mineral. If it was a fabric, it would be a pale, powdery, pink quartz colored velvet.

Pink Quartz is very intriguing, probably (as the notelist indicate) all the wellbalanced ingredients creates this impression. Pink Quartz is a true unisexfragrance and IMO it lending to the masculine side, here is a rose (without oud) for men. Despite this, it's pleasant also for a woman to wear, an  exception when it comes to pink roses as it is not as sweet as most pink fragrances.. Sillage is close and longevity for 12h+, an exellent choice for the early spring.

Picture: The tempting Pink Quartz
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)

Pink Quartz could be appreciated by those who likes pink roses with some deept and without the conventional sweetness fragrances such as Parfum d'Empire Eau Suave even if that one is a tad fruity. To me pink Quartz is sort of the masculine counterpart of Eau Suave. Just as the latter (on of my alltime favorite pink roses) Pink Quartz is a little gem.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, pink grapefruit, olibanum, saffron, ginger; palmarosa, damask rose, palisander rosewood, rose, amber, patchouli, myrrh, benzoin, white musk

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample 

Springtime fragrances

Soon they're here!
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

This year spring is very early, or at least the late winter is springlike some of the days. Of course there was almost no winter this year which is a great relief in everyday life. Anyway, this brings out this brings out the craving after springfragrances, such as:

Foin Fraîchement Coupé (Oriza L.Legrand): Starts fizzy, light green over dry haynotes, clover and herbs. Deepens in a sweeter, almost anise-liqueur-like light musky note. Comnines rual, green freshness with a delicate, sweet. light gourmand accord. Excellent longevity, I can smell whiffs from this fragrance from the dept of my skin days after I worn FFC.

Le Parfum  L'Eau Couture (Elie Saab): From the very moment when the first molecules hit my skin when testing LPL'EC I knew this is a must have. Starts bright and springlike, with an accord reminiscent of an almondy and not so cold Lily of the Valley, even if the notelist says magnolia. The classical Kurkdjian/Saab orangeblossom accord is also there but not as highlighted as in the original Le Perfum. A light vanilla complements the flowers perfectly. This is a reminder: Never underestimate "the mainstreams". Many of them are much better than all of the anxious complicated fragrances which are too many in the tide of nicherealeases.

Forever and Ever Dior (Christian Dior): This is a fragrance which I have neglected to try for a decade because of its silly name. It was displayed when I passed through a perfumestore and I tested it and fell immadiately for its light, bright, pink, rosy and crisp flowery charm. An elegant and very wearable springfragrance for ladies of all ages.

L'Heure Bleue (Guerlain): I think I mentioned L'HB in my list of springfragrances last year too. Every late winter/early spring I long a bit extra for this magic velvet dark blue, dusty, iris-neroli-heliotrophe-tonka elixir in all of its concentrations. L'HB is a fragrance which never loses its interest and which I appreciate even better the more I sniff from the flood of new fragrances.

Onda (Vero Profumo): Like taking a walk over the fields when the snow just has melted. The smell of earth, mud and the grass of yesteryear with light animalic whiffs from the horses on the barnyard nearby. (Onda Extrait & Voile d'Extrait).

Which fragrances do you perfer for spring?

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Quick impressions of some classic L'AP:s 2(2)

More impressions from my random L'Artisan samples sniffing. Today from the lighter fragrances department:

Picture: Thé pour un Été,
refreshing, retro jasmine
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

Coeur de Vetiver Sacré: A creation of Karine Vinchon Spehner from as late as 2010 which seems to have flopped as it would be discontinued if I have understand i right. Despite the name that indicate this is a vetiver dominated fragrance, the said note is discrete and interacting in a subtle and wellbalanced way with incense, spices, light fruity and woody notes. Calming and relaxing and a bit misunderstod IMO.

Thé pour un Été: A creation from the era of fresh perfumes, the 90s (1995), by Olivia Giacobetti. A refreshing jasminetea blend with some lemony sparkle and contrasted with a very light spicyness. TpuE has a certain retro feeling, when I smell it I immediately come to think of Catherine Deneuve in the movie Indochine from the colonial French Indochina. TpuE is gentler and doesn't get the smell as much of wet wipe that is common in many tea fragrances form the era, for example the iconic Bulgari Eau Parfumeé au Thé Vert. TpuE seems also to be a gentler forerunner to another jasmine-tea-spicy fragrance Dior Escale à Pondichéry.

Verte Violette: A bit strange 2001 violet creation by Anne Flipo. Starts smelling like Yves Saint Laurent Paris and after a while a note of water melon appears and adds an aquatic but also vegetal impression.When it alls calms down, a beautiful, sleek, violet flower note remains. In the same group as Annick Goutal La Violette which is (despite the name) greener and with a crispy candy feeling and Parfums de Nicolaï Violette in Love which is more fruity/sparkling.

To summon up: In the flood of all new releases, don't forget to look back and revaluate the old gems from the fragrance houses which has stood the test of time.

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Quick impressions of some classic L'AP:s 1(2)

Picture: One of the L'Artisans,
Drôle de Rose
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

After becoming disappointed with the new sub-line L'Explosions de Emotions from the old (one of the very first niche-houses, only Diptyque was earlier) reaible L'Artisan Parfumeur, I had to test/re-test some of my samples from the house to get my confidence back. Below some quick impressions of some classic L'Artisans from different genres.

Bois Farine: A 2003 Jean-Claude Ellena inspiration from an unusual tree in the Caribbian. Sweet, powdery, like flour, woody with some spices. The opening smells like peanutbutter. Delicious, mouthwatering and comforting (if properly dosed) to wear cold and grey days. Unfortunately Bois Farine now is discontinued, so it's time to stock up.

Voleur de Roses: Created by Michel Almairac as early as 1993 and it's a forerunner to the whole dark, earthy, moisty, dark, red rose and patchouli that I like so much. VdR is somehow the unpolished gem (ruby) of the genre the patchouli is dirtier and moistier, the red rose is darker and bolder than in the more polished followers such as Guerlain Rose Barbare, Juliette has A Gun Lady Vengeance, and Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady.

Drôle de Rose: A powdery, cosmetic, lemony, cherful, sunny take on the combined violet and pink rose theme, created by Olivia Giacobetti in 1996. Also a forerunner to fragrances such as Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose which more formal in appearance and with more pronounced violet than in DdR and Etat Libre d'Orange Putain des Palaces which is a dramatic, dark and dirty variation of violet-rose.

To be continued in the next post.

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Explosions D'Émotions 2 (2)

Today impressions of the two remaining Explosions D'Emotions.

Picture: Skin on Skin
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

Skin on Skin "a wanton embrace" also for this fragrance the marketing blurb is fitting. Skin on Skin embraces you with an obtrusive, chemical candynote which interplays with a sweet irisnote, passably dimmed with soft saffron somewhere in the middle of the fragrance and moved to a note similar to hairspray. A musky, smoky (probably the Whisky mentioned among the ingredients) suede is lurking in the background, contrasting the hairspray and the sweet  notes. As the fragrance is strong and shrill, one should be careful with application. Skin on Skin seems almost as sort of an experimental mockery of a great iris-suede as Histoires de Parfums Tubereuse 1 Capricieuse which, despite its name, foremost is an iris-suede with gourmand accords of cacao and saffron. Skin on Skin could also be one of the sketches to Duchaufours own L'Artisan creation Traverseé du Bosphore. 

Picture: Amour Nocturne
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

Amour Nocturne "the intimacy of the night" Amour Nocturne shocks with a loud and garish chemical note of cocos + milk chocolate like a liquid Bounty Bar. As it dries down to the middle- and basenotes, the scent softens and a milky accord infused  with some sweet candynotes contrasted with a dry burned (probably hints of the gunpowdernote), plastic slight flowery note (as in Parfumerie Generale Psychotrope but I like the latter much better)  dominates the fragrance until it's fading out about 24h after the initial application. After going through the jarring top notes, Amour Nocturne despite or maybe because of the burned, plastic  is quite pleasant and comforting to wear in a small dose. Just as with Skin on Skin: Beware to overapply this!

To sum it all up: Probably I'm too old school and doesen't understand anything from this avantgarde(?) creating: Probably I also have a too ironic mind because when sampling Explosions D'Émotions I almost suspect Bertrand Duchaufour for making fun of his public and the current exalting of niche, taking it too serious. After all, these fragrances are more expensive than the IMO overall much better L'Artisans in the regular line. Seems like he's taking the concept a famous name (the perfumer and brand) + nice bottle + an OK juice + some "exclusive" marketing chit-chat to the extreme. An interesting concept and the fragrances as such is very well worth sampling (thanks to Fragrance & Art for the samples) as a reflection of the state of niche today or just to find an unconventional and (in some phases of them if applied sparingly) comforting fragrance.

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Explosions D'Émotions 1(2)

The Expolsions D'Émotions trio are fragrances signed Bertrand Duchaufour for L'Artisan Parfumeur that must have been created with the intention to provoke the smell of sense. The fragrances are wellcrafted and unconventional, and seems to be almost a sort of experimental fragrances ie nothing for daily wearing but something to stuck in and analyze a day staying at home. Explosions D'Émotions are bottled in a new stylish design of the L'Artisan bottles.

Picture: Déliria
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

Déliria "exhilaration of the senses" according to L'Artisan marketing blurb and that's true. Déliria starts with a note close to sweet pinapple (BD inspired from Jean Patou Colony?)contrasted with the dry, dirty, unaired ambernote that is present in one of my favorite ambers, L'Ombre Fauve from Parfumerie Générale. After the contrasting opening, Déliria proceeds in a bubblegum note close to the classical pink, swedish bubblegum namned Bugg. Then the sweet notes are more nondescript, its more of a candystore and later the fragrance softens, like the note of candyfloss. The candy notes are darker, deeper and better blended then the regular sweet candy fragrance, a more serious interpretation of this pink-sugary genre.

To be continued in the next post.....

Etat Libre d'Orange - La Fine du Monde

Picture: A scene from the last phase of Ragnarök (1905)
Painting by Emil Doepler (1855-1922)

Who could imagine the Armageddon so quiet and undramatic, almost relaxing? I image chaos, horror and fear but this is not what is expressed in the latest Etat Libre d'Orange fragrance La Fin du Monde created by Quentin Bisch .

La Fin du Monde starts with an iris accord emphasize the rooty, carrot smell. But the carrot isn't raw, instead it's softer, like stewed carrot, an impression that I also get from Huitèime Art Naiviris but in the latter the stewed impression is more intense. After a while a smooth peppery, fizzy, spicy note come up, probably the pepper/cummin. The cummin seems to be a stripped down version, without the sweat (strange that the sweatish component is missing when thinking about the dramatic inspiration for La Fin du Monde). Then a torrid, slight burned note appears, a light interpretation of gunpowder. A sweet, a bit nutty note, reminding me of a almondcake glimpses by, contrasting in the dry, black lead-like accord. In the next stage a slight salty nuance appears and soon a mild popcornnote arrives. The popcorn is gentle and natural in style compared to the candied popcorn note in Miss Dior Cherie (original 2005 version). The composition is grounded in a light, very dry woody-resin base, with the soft gunpowdernote continuously present. The gunpowdernote is much more soft than in fragrances such as Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Ambre or in Lorenzo Villoresi Teint de Neige.

The overall impression of La Fine du Monde is a connection to another recent gunpowdery-slight gourmand interpreation: Amour Nocturne by L'Artisan Parfumeur (an analyze will be published in the coming weeks), but it seems as the names are interchanged.La Fin du Monde is soft, quiet and balanced compared to the much stronger, louder and chaotic Amour Nocturne, which seems to be an experimental and provoking fragrance. La Fin du Monde on the other hand, is very wearable, pleasant and officefriendly, a fragrance many could like, not as extreme as the earlier ELd'O fragrances. When wearing La Fin du Monde, I spontaneously received very positive remarks from when it comes to perfume fastidious Mr Parfumista. La Fin du Monde has close sillage and good longevity, about 12h.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Popocorn, carrot seeds, cumin, sesame, black pepper, freesia, vetiver, sandalwood, ambrette, iris, styrax and gunpowder.

Thanks to Riktig Parfym for the sample.

Pierre Balmain - Extatic

Pictures: All pictures above and below:
PR Pierre Balmain (c)

Extatic is the latest release from the venerable house of Pierre Balmain. Extatic is created by Emelie Copperman.

Extatic starts with soft flowery, slight fruity notes accompanied by a light woody smell which induces a note that almost smells like something I image as light tobaccoflowers. There is nothing of the annoying candy like sweetness of many mainstream fragrance, the sweetness is well balanced. The rest of the flowery impression is nondescript and there is hard to sort out any of the individual notes. The woody notes are soft, with the musky cashmeran dominating probably infused with some clean patchouli. Overall a pleasant, polite, easy to wear and non-extatic fragrance, without own identity or specific features. Extatic is suitable both for day and night and it's not a heavy partyfragrance. The longevity is very good as often with woody-musky fragrances, more then 12h.

To be honest I'm a bit confused about Extatic. It's IMO a let down from the good releases of Balmain the latest decade such as the very well reformulated Ivoire and Vent Vert as well as the contemporary creations Ambre Gris and Carbone. I hope this is a temporary incident and not a trend reversal in the Balmain perfumeline. This doesn't mean there is something wrong with Extatic, quite the contrary, it's a good mainstream perfume that many will like. The issue is that I have higher expectations on Balmain than just to be likable and pleasing.

Those who like easy to wear, pleasant, contemporary, woody florals will probably like Extatic. I can't put my nose on which fragrances Extatic resembles but I smell the likes when walking around in the public. Anyway, Extatic is worth trying, remember my medium rated perfume could be your top rated :-)

Rating: 3

Notes: Rose, osmanthus, pear, orchid, iris, jasmine, amyris, sandalwood, cashmeran, leather

Parfums MDCI - Nuit Andalouse

Picture: Innenhof der Alhambra, 1892Painting by Adolf Seel (1829-1907)
Wikimedia commons

Nuit Andalouse is the other of the two latest launches from Parfums MDCI, Cuir Garamante was reviewed in the prior post. Nuit Andalouse is created by the risning star in the perfumers Pantheon: ISIPCA graduated perfumer Cecile Zarokian which created (together with Daniel Maurel) the epic Epic Woman for Amouage when she still was a trainee at Robertet!

Nuit Andalouse starts with a sort of stripped down, elegant gardenia and cool violet, green notes contrasted with a zesty orange. This is not the usual big white floral burst which is the start of  most orange, this is more elegant and muted. As Nuit Andalouse developes, the flowery notes gets sweeter and deeper, but not as sweet and liqueur-ish as in By Kilian Sweet Redemption, this is a natural, floral, nectar sweetness. A restrained and almost dry in texture musk is present in during the whole drydown, contributing with a slight hay-ish impression. The whole impression of Nuit Andalouse is that of a transparant but not at all cologne-ish orangeblossom fragrance.

Picture: The Deluxe falcons of Parfums MDCI,
there is also a plain version
Photo: PR Parfums MDCI (c)

Nuit Andalouse is a beautiful, well-made, elegant and very wearable orangeblossom fragrance. Maybe not that innovative or avantgarde but a high-quality, classic fragrance in a style that is timeless. Perfect to wear year around, both for office and dressed up. This is a fragrance that really cheers up a grey, chilly winterday and blooms a hot summerday. Sillage is medium and longevity for 12h+.

Those who like lovely and uplifting orangeblossoms such as L'Artisan Parfumeurs Seville à l'Aube, Robert Piguet Blossom, Maison Francis Kurkdjian APOM Femme and Oscar de la Renta Granada will probably also like Nuit Anadalouse.

Rating: 4

Updated rating November 2015: 5 

After more wearings since the review this one has grown and I have to adjust the rating as it's a very versatile and beautiful orangeblossom with excellent longevity, on fabric for weeks.

Notes: Orange, violet, green notes, gardenia, ylang-ylang, rose, orange blossom, vanilla, sandalwood, musk, amyl salicylate (light flower/cutted gras musk note)

PS: Parfums MDCI offers generous 12 ml bottles in the samplesets on their website 

Parfums MDCI - Cuir Garamante

Picture: Foggara (water chanell) in the
old Garamantes territory in Libya
Photo: Tagelmoust (cc) Wikipedia,
some rights reserved 

Parfums MDCI is a french niche house, founded by Claude Marchal, which offers high quality fragrances in collaboration with both experienced established perfumers and the coming perfumer generation.Cuir Garamante is one of the two latest launches from the house. The fragrance is created by Richard Ibanez, an experinted senior perfumer, creator of for example the special, before its time, dark, woody Sonia Rykiel Le Parfum.

Cuir Garamante is inspired by the ancient saharian berbers who was constructors of water channels for irrigaton and therefore dominated the traderoute from Tchad to the Mediterranean ca 500 B.C. As inspired from the desert, Cuir Garamante starts very dry, hot and spicy. Pepper, saffron and the likes creates a fizzy almost transparant, warm, desert-windy impression.As CG deepens there is also a pleasant slight sweaty note, like a soft touch of cummin glimpsing through. The oud is of the smoother variation and it's contributing with a dark, luxury, boozy, woody impression in the same way as in Puredistance Black.On my skin the rose in Cuir Gramante is not detectable as it is when testing it on the scentstripe, probably as the rose is light.On the teststripe the oud-rose (medium pink rose) smells very balanced and restrained, this is not the traditional rose-saffran-oud combo of  Montale and the crowd of followers of this, in those days avantgarde house. The Cuir Garamante rose-oud combo is more of (even if the fragrances are different in style) the gentle second oud genaration rose-oud accord, as in Parfums de Nicolaï Rose Oud. In the basenotes the boozy quality is still present, but in a slighter sweeter context than earlier, probably the resins, smooth sandalwood and discrete, dry vanilla (pod) notes, absolutely not the gourmand, dessert vanilla. In the basenotes there is also a fine leather, which interacts seamless with the other notes.

Picture: Cuir Garamante in Parfums MDCI Deluxe Falcon
There is also a plain version bottle
Photo: PR Parfums MDCI (c) 

Cuir Garamante is marketed towards men but I think it's an unisex creation which leans to the masculine side, contrary to Puredistance Black which is a more feminine unisex IMO. But this is just nuances, one have to test on oneself. Cuir Garamante is suitable both for office and dressed up occasions, for all seasons except for the warmest summerdays. The longevity is about a day.

Cuir Garamante is a well crafted fragence, well balanced and made of high quality ingredients. It's not original or avantgarde, an increasing number of niche lines includes a fragrance of this dark-woody- spicy- oud- booze-leather character (even if emphasizing a bit different among the notes) in their catalouge. Beside a spicier version of Puredistance Black, Cuir Garamante also resembles Robert Piguet Casbah (the dry spices) and partly Huitième Art Monsieur (the niche standard woody impression).

Rating:. 5

Notes: Pink pepper, nutmeg, saffron, rose, oud, papyrus, leather, vanilla, labdanum, frankincense, sandalwood

Boucheron - Place Vendôme

Picture: Place Vendôme
Photo: PR Boucheron (c)

Place Vendôme is created to capture the spirit of the venerable jewellery house Boucheron, situated at the epicentrum of luxury. Place Vendôme is created as a collaboration between perfumers Olivier Cresp and Nathalie Lorson.

Place Vendôme starts sparkling, citric with traces of fruit and light, white flowers. The initial accord reminds me of a rounded and fruity version of Dior Escale à Pondichéry, without the teanote. As PV dries down the blended flowery impression intensifies and is somehow wrapped in gentle, not too sweet, notes. The flowery notes are light as a veil in texture and impression. The sweetness discrete, the honeynote involved is not of the animalic kind as in Serge Lutens Miel de Bois, this is a stripped down version, with just some elements of the honey extracted. The base is light and woody, with a sweet resin quality and the honeyed florals are still pleasant, deeper in expression as in the middlenotes. On my skin, the base is blooming 12h+ after application, I woke up in the middle of the night wondering "What is smelling so good"? The basenotes is the best part of PV for me.

The impression and expression of Place Vendôme is sort of a mainstream Grossmith Floral Veil. Nondescript light, ariy flowers are fleeting in and out in the accords, just as a fleeting light silk veil. Place Vendôme is also a bit "mainstream" rugged in texture compared to Floral Veil but on the other hand, the fragrances are in different priceranges. Another fragrance that comes to my mind when wearing Place Vendôme is Versace Vanitas, even if Vanitas is cold, a bit watery and crispy in texture, where PV is on the verge to creamy.

Picture: The stylish bottle of Place Vendôme
Photo: PR Boucheron (c)

Place Vendôme is a modern interpreation of the classical Boucheron floral-oriental theme. It's fleeting (as many contemporary fragrances after all the IFRA regulations have been effective) and lighter compared to classic Boucherons but elements of the elegant, a bit sweet, classic Boucheron base could be found also in PV. PV is feminine, elegant and suitable both for office and dressed up occasions. It is utterly well behaved, almost annoying in its perfection and it is hard to catch and analyze. Even if PV has no distinct characteristics it's pleasant and easy to wear. The longevity is very good, traces are left after almost 24h. Altogether a fragrance which fits most women, smells nice, is comforting and doesn't offend anybody.

Rating: 4

Notes: Pink pepper, rose, orangeblossom, mandarine, jasmine, honey, peony, praline, benzoin, cedarwood

Fragrances for cold winter

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

After a green, rainy and green winter (with tempratures about +5-10 C) which spanned over the year end and nine days into January, the regular snowy and cold winter is now here and seems to be permanented. Even if the white snow is beautiful, everyday life gets much more tedious (all the clothes one have to wear, scraping the car windows, slippery outside, shoveling snow etc). But one thing is very positive, at last I really carve the hard core orientals. Here are some favorites at the moment.

Labdanum 18 (Le Labo): Thanks to Sigrun (Riktig Parfym) I got a sample of this and it was instant liking. Dense, warm, like dark brown, viscous, chocolate, even if not smelling of that. To me it smells of resins, a bit powdery, animalic and balsamic. Reminds me of Shalimar but not as complex and darker. Which leads to:

Shalimar (Guerlain): Cold weather is the right condition for this multifacetted beauty. I get less of the lighter notes as bergamot/citric and more of the dark, balmy, resin and animalic ones. "Shallan" is a true follower which could always be trusted.

Ambre Doré (Maître Parfumeur et Gantier): This is a dark, velvety, slight dirty amber with oud deepening the creation and givning it an interesting twist. The oud is very discrete, one doesn't think of it as oud. The dirtyness is also discrete, not as much as in another amber favorite L'Ombre Fauve from Parfumerie Générale.

Rêve d'Ossian (Oriza L.Legrand): Ossians dream has emerged to be my favorite Oriza in very hard competition as they are all so good. Amber, incense, pines, resins and some spieces are creating a comforting, warm and snuggly texture which warming up the coldest of days.

Opium (Yves Saint Laurent): As I'm saving on the little which is left of my vintage version, I'm mostly wearing the current version which I think is a very good woody-spicy oriental on its own merits. Can't understand all the complaints about it.

What is your comfort cold, winter scents?

Olivier Durbano - Citrine

Picture: Citrin geschliffen 58 Carat
Photo: Wela49 (cc) Wikimedia Commons,
some rights reserved

Citrine is just like Lapis Philosophorum earlier this week a part of the Olivier Durbano line dedicated to semiprecious stones. Citrine to the yellow to brown rare gemstone (most "citrines" are in fact heat treated smoky quartzes or amethysts).

Citrine starts with warm and lemony, accompanied with slight pepper/incense notes. After a while a flowery accord sweetens Citrine and the yellow mimosa shines through as does a balancing note of rosewood. The mimosa is not as distinct as the mimosa in Annick Goutal Le Mimosa and the rosewood is nota as notable as the rosewood in Comme des Garcons Palisander. Resins and slight honeyd waxy notes are lending an unusual sweetness without any vanillic notes and the fragrance is very comforting. In the basenotes the warm and glowing, resin sweetness of myrrh and ambery notes completes Citrine in deeper facets. Traces of the peppery/ginger/elemi accord from the beginning of the fragrance is present in the background as also the soft note of mimosa.

Citirine is a pleasant and thanks to the mimosa unusual resin/incense fragrance. It's soft and discrete, a deliberated fragrance that doesn't intrude to the personal space of others ie a good fragrance for the workplace. With it's sunny apperance it's suitable for summer but also for autumn and winter to remember the warm days. Longevity is for a day.

I think those who like one of my all time incense favorites Comme des Garcons Zagorsk would also appreciate Citrine. Even if Zagorsk is stronger and more distinct with its pine and incense, both fragrancses has a flowery quality but whereas the Zagorsk flower is icy and cold, the yellow mimosa of Citrine is sunny and warm.

Rating: 4

Notes: Citron, orange, elemi, ginger, pink pepper,carrot seed, mimosa, rosewood, linguum vitae (sort of gaiac wood), musk, myrrh, grey amber, beeswax

Olivier Durbano - Lapis Philosophorum

Picture: From the world of alchemistry
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)

Lapis Philosophorum is the 2013 release from Olivier Durbano who is an architect and a jewelry designer, His perfumes are inspired by his collection of semi-precious stones, Bijoux de Pierres Poèmes (Perfumes of Stones Poems).A common trait in his perfumeline is the involvement of different types of incense. Lapis Philosophorum is inspired from how the ancient alchemists was searching for the Philosopher’s stone that would change base metals into pure gold. 

Lapis Philosophorum starts with soft balsamic notes with over a gentle, winey backgrouond, the winey accord is reminiscent of the winey expression in Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Une Rose. After a while a soft note of incense appears, balancing the tangy winey notes in a sort of meditative harmony. The winey soft incense accord stays through the whole dry down of LP and lasts also in  the contrasting base of the fragrance. The base is very original, a clear menthol note which adds an almost sea-salty impression, is blended with warm, balsamic notes of opoponax and myrrh with oakmoss contributing with its mysterious, dark, velvety green dept. There is something with LP in this phase that reminds me of a darker, warmer and  incense infused sibling to the salty, aquatic, herbal  Finisterre by Maria Candida Gentile.In the later stage of the basenotes, LP turns dark blue in its expression as an inky note appears on an almost metallic background. 

Picture: Lapis Philosophorum
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)

Lapis Philosophorum evokes the image of medieval alchemist working in the secret, hidden somewhere in the a dark moisty cave with lichens on the rough and cold walls. The overall impression of Lapis Philosophorum is, despite the odd combination of notes, a well balanced, soft, calming and relaxing fragrance of high quality and with (even to my jaded nose) intriguing twists in each phase of the dry down. This is a fragrance that catches my attention from the first dab to the final notes 12h+ later, something I really appreciate from a perfume.

Rating: 5

Notes: Calamus, juniper, rum, truffle, grapefruit, wine sediment, frankincense, mesquite, ambergris, menthol

opoponax, myrrh, musk, oak moss

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test.

Guilty (perfume) pleasures

Picture: My guilty perfumepleasure -
Jimmy Choo Flash
Photo: PR Jimmy Choo (c)

Sigrun at perfmeblog  "Riktig Parfym" is describing a sort of a guilty perfumepleasure in yesterdays post.
My guilty perfume pleasure is definitely Jimmy Choo Flash. In theory, or at least in the view of perfumesnobbery (which I'm not, I hope, but Mr Parfumista sometimes accuses me to be) I shouldn't like this almost insipid tubereuse/jasmine/orangeblossom with a flashy twist of strawberry (just as Sigruns Miss Dior Cherie - strange, the same berry AND Christine Nagel as creator :-) and catchy, bling-bling box. But somehow I'm attracted to this fragrance, which I find relaxing and comforting, quite contrary to the marketing of the fragrance which mediates images of a glamorous but hectic life in the limelight. But for me strangely, it makes me calming down a stressful day. A hidden gem among "mainstream".

Picture: The official image of Flash
Photo: PR Jimmy Choo (c)

Fragrant dessert

Picture: Scent stripes
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Sometimes when we had dinner we ends up with a fragrant dessert instead of a conventional dessert loaded with calories. Sometimes there is a theme and sometimes there is just random sampling. We are testing on scentstripes in order to experience the fragrances unaffected. Here is an example from a recent fragrant dessert:

First some theme-oriented scentstrips: The intention was to compare immortelle notes which then devolved to compare immortelle and boozy notes.

Sables (Annick Goutal) The starting point was of ocurse the role model of immortelle, Sables. This rough and salty immortelle is the image of dunes, wooden boats and docks, the soggy and slaty air at seaside.

Cuir Beluga (Guerlain) Refined luxurry immortelle combined with the softest, light suedenote ever. Pure delight!

1740 Marquis de Sade (Histoires de Parfums) The immortelle is here and working together with leathery/balsamic notes makes a true dark, cognac, boozy impression appearing.

Speakeasy (Frapin) Of course 1740 MdS had to be compared with the lighter boozy immortelle Speakeasy. On scentstripe the minty note is very prominent compared to what I percieve when wearing it, worn it's more of leathery-dark rum.

After this immortelle study, we went on for a "similar in style and expression but contemporary vs old school" study when I once again complained about the discontinuing of the great contemporary chypre

Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille (Annick Goutal) testing the less radiant and somehow denser Edp. MPCpC IMO is the best AG so far, dark, deep patchy- plummy, a contemporary Femme Fatal and as such clean compared to its (as I belive) role model:

Femme (Rochas) testing an old Edp of the 1989 version, dark, plummy and spicy, predominantly cummin which lends it just the right slight animalic skanky aura. This is perfume at its best, outdoing most of the current niche offerings.

Talking about current niche offerings, we went further to a great and at the moment hyped one:

Iris Nazarena (Aedes de Venustas) Mr Parfumista has complained this smelling "old man and Brut" on me but I suspecting he's just plotting to take over my sample of it. On the scentstripe the smooth, rooty-iris-carrot note is very pleasant and later on, maybe there is a hint of a refined Fabergé Brut. When Mr Parfumista wears Iris Nazarena the day after it smells like on the scentstripe. Maybe I let him have the sample after all...Unfortunately it seeems to be the same as with Mona di Orio Violette Fumée, I really appreciate the fragrance and want to wear it but Mr Parfumista wears it much better :-(

Finally to the antithesis of niche: My mother had handed over an interesting sample to me:

Oud (Alyssa Ashley) interesting because I'm interested to find out how a "budget-oud" is smelling and the answer is: Faint and fleeting, syntetical, dark woody fragrance with a slight almondy note. This note also appears in expensive nicheofferings but with more dept and accompained with more notes and nuances. In the Alyssa Ashley Oud interpretation it's somehow a flat soli-note. Not a bad perfume but nothing engaging either.

Téo Cabanel - Alahine

Picture: Alahine in its current extravagant bottle.
Photo: PR Téo Cabanel (c)

Alahine is probably the most famous of the Téo Cabanel fragrance and the third one released since the house re-started 2005. Alahine is created by Téo Cabanels in house perfumer, Jean-Francois Latty.

To me Alahine is the image of the floriental fragrance, even if Alahine has a contemporary slight gourmand twist, a strange but sucessfull interaction between pepper and liqueurlike notes. Alahine starts with an instant flowery sweetness of ylang-ylang supported by rose and the classical whites: Jasmine and orangeflower. Those accords are contrasted by fizzy peppery notes and soft notes of pencilshavings (not the sharp varity) also appears. The liqueur note which, just like the notes of pepper and pencil shavings, stays all through the dry down of Alahine. There is a warm and resin-y dept of Alahine which lends the fragrance a velvet soft quality. If Alahine has a color it's definitly red, medium jelly like (a bit transparent) red in the beginning and dark, red, thick, silky velvet in the end. Alahine is very sweet but the woody and peppery notes are contrasting the sweetness in such a well balanced manner and Alahine never gets cloying. When comparing an older sample with recent I don't find any notable differences between the versions. The older version is a bit deeper in character and the newer is just a notch more flowery.

When tested Alahine I come to think of another original red, liqueur, pepper, pencilshaving, floral which preceeded Alahine with six years, Chopard Madness. Madness is loud and sharpedged compared to Alahine but Madness is a forerunner and definitly ahead of its time. Another loud, red and spicy fragrance which comes to my mind when wearing Alahine is Vivenne Westwood Anglomania. Compared to both these red's, Alahine is wellbehaved, elegant and somehow the perfection of the theme. Alahine is a fragrance for autumn and winter, a blanket in grey, cold and rainy weather. Longevity is good, 12h+ and sillage is medium.

To sum up:Alahine IMO still holds its number one position among the Téo Cabanels even if Barkhane is a close runner up.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine, orangeblossom, pepper, iris, labdanum, benzoin, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla, musk

Téo Cabanel - Barkhane

Picture: Erg Chebbi, Morocco, Africa
Photo: 84514010 Author Rosino (cc),
Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

Barkhane inspired of Saharian dunes of transverse form, is the latest release from the house of Téo Cabanel. Barkhane is created by the housenose Jean-Francois Latty.

Barkhane starts dark, boozy and almost edible. The amber is not the sweet vanillic type, nor the typical herbal version, but  traces of spices are evident. A refreshing note of geranium shines through in the early stages of Barkhane and somehow the ease that the geranium provides to the fragrance, remains during the developement of Barkhane. Despite all the heavy ingredients, Barkhane doesn't become dense or cloying and in the later third of the fragrane a dry,on the verge to powdery, paper-like quality appears which is close to a much less sweet version of the papernote in Boucheron Trouble. Probably this comes from the vanilla note as vanillin like notes could be extracted from wood. This dry papernote is interacting beautiful with the dark, underlying, boozy, woody notes. There is also a wellcrafted, dark, minimalistic patchoulinote coming forward in the pleasant base of Barkhane. The spices also comes forward in the later atages of Barkhane, the almost putty, slight metallic curry tree note gives the spicy blend a special touch.

Barkhane is, as all Téo Cabanels tested so far, a well crafted, classic styled (but with a contemporary touch) oriental blend of high quality ingredients, very wearable in many situations. The fragrance is also affordable taken in consideartion the steep increases in the prices of niche. It's a perfect fragrance for winter but as it's note dense or cloying I also think it would be nice to wear in late summerevenings. Longevity is good, about 12h and as the stylish creation it is, the sillage is just right, not at least intruding but not just a skinscent.

Fragrances which comes to my mind when wearing Barkhane is Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe similar lightness despite the boozy amber, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Doré the dark, mysterious notes and the cult amber Farmacia SS. Annunziata dal 1561 Ambra Nera also dry, dark, almost powdery and with some spices. Also The Different Company Oriental Lounge comes to my mind and probably this comes from the spicy qualities of Barkhane, in particular the curry tree note that both fragrances have in common. I think those who considering the mentioned fragranses should also try Barkhane before the final decision what to buy.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Bergamot, cumin, geranium, curry tree, patchouli, vetiver, oud, labdanum, myrrh, tonka bean, vanilla, musk