Neela Vermeire Creations - Mohur Extrait

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Mohur Extrait (or Espirit de Parfum) is the perfumeversion of Mohur in Edp which was one of the first three Neela Vermeire Creations in early 2012. The Extrait will, just as Ashoka, be launched soon.

I find the Mohur Extrait deeper and darker than the Mohur Edp. Mohur Edp is a bright medium pink rose to me, smooth, almost creamy, spicy and with some fizzy green notes. There is also a leathernote that reminds me slightly of tobbacco. The Extrait gives me the image of heavy silkvelvet in the color of dark purple with golden stiches and loads of roses in the same color, all surrounded by a smooth almost creamy saffron and other delicate spiced stored in smooth leather pouches. The leathernote in Extrait is darker and deeper than in the Edp.The woody notes of oud and sandalwood is gentle and not at all overpowering.  I can also smell a note or part of an accord that reminds me of Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille (swe). Probably this is an effect of iris and violet interacting, underscored by dark deep notes, in Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille. patchouli and in Mohur Extrait oud. The Extrait has a retro vibe even if not as evident as in Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille. 

Picture: The matching bottle to the Mohur Extrait
Photo: PR Neela Vermeire Creations (c)

The Extrait, as the perfumestrength in general, is close to the skin wheras the Edp has more radiance. Longevity is good  about 12h in warm weather and as also the Edp, Mohur really blooms when the skin gets warmed. I think both are as good, they complement each other, one for the day and on for the night.  the Extrait is a perfect calming fragrance to sleep in, as it is also for festive evening occasions.  Mohur Extrait just as Mohur Edp is a must try for lovers of intricate oriental rosefragrances such as Guerlain Rose Nacree du Desert d'Orient.

Rating: 5 

Notes: Cardamom, coriander, ambrette, carrot seeds, pepper, elemi, iris, jasmine, rose, violet, almond, leather;sandalwood, amber, woody notes, patchouli, oud, benzoin, vanilla, tonka bean

The Neela Vermeire Creations are avaible here

Neela Vermeire Creations - Ashoka

Picture: Ashoka in its sylish, Indian inspired bottle
Photo: PR Neela Vermeire Creations (c) 

Ashoka is the latest of  Neela Vermeires Creations and it will be released later this week. Thanks to Neela I've got the opportunity to test a sample of this intriguing fragrance in advance. Ashoka, as also the first three fragrances in the Neela Vermeire line, is created by the top perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. The inspiration to the perfume comes from an Indian Emperor Ashoka (304-232 BC) a qruel conquer who transformed to a relativley nice guy when he found Buddha.

Ashoka starts intriguing, there is a note that reminds me of lemon balm, which is not mentioned among the ingredients and there is also something thats reminds me of sandalwood. The fragrance has a slight spicy, green, almost foody character, much like green currypaste smoothed by coconut milk. This early stage of Ashoka reminds me of the context of (even if not smelling close) the gourmand (= Asian food, not sweeties) Etat Libre d'Orange Fils de Dieu du riz et des Agrumes, but Ashoka is more distinct in style. After a while notes of figs, both leaf and fruit, enters. The fignotes are so well blended that they don't stand out separately, they contributes with their different ascpects of green, the smooth, milky fruit and the fizzy green of the leaves. Watery and a tad powdery floral notes adding additional dimensions to the the milky fig greenery and the mix is somehow calming and comforting. It's like resting in the shadow at the side of a pond in an oriental garden a very hot day. When Ashoka is settled in the base, the green balsam fir and the incense is dominating and in this phase Ashoka reminds me of Andy Tauers Reverie au Jardin but smoother and milkier in texture.

My overall impression of Ashoka is an oriental styled interpretation of Un Reverie au Jardin, green notes, incense and balsam fir is mutual and take central roles in both fragrances. When I wear Ashoka I think of it as an warm Un Reverie au Jardin.  Ashoka is spicier, smoother and warmer where Un Reverie au Jardin is dewy, balmy and aromatic with its lavander. Even if providing a mutual impression in style, the differences are are sufficient, Ashoka and Un Reverie au Jardin are sort of Yin & Yang, which complement each other in an excellent way.

Ashoka is a high quality fragrance in which naturals are predominant. Fig, insence and fir balm in a smooth, green context is dominating according to my nose. Ashoka is intriguing and there is always something going on during the whole dry down. The longevity is good 12h+ and the radiance is a bit louder  than most of the first Neela Vermeire trio Mohur, Bombay Bling and Trayee. According to my nose, even if  unisex, Ashoka is the most masculine from the Neela Vermeire Creations so far. Probably thats the reason, even if a very well done fragrance, why Ashoka doesn't click with my chemistry as well as the first three creations and the retro beauty Mohur Extrait which will be reviewed later this week. Ashoka is a must try for admirers of the Neela Vermeire Creations and for fine fragrances in general.

Rating: 4

Notes: Fig leaf, leather, white and pink lotus, mimose, fig tree, osmanthus, rose, water hyacinth, vetiver, styrax, incense, sandalwood, myrrh, tonka bean, balsam fir

Ashoka and the other Neela Vermeire Creations could be bought directly from Neelas E-Boutique
I can recommend the discoveryset.

Fragrance(s) of the week (37) 2013 - Impression of Autour d'Parfum

Picture: Ambre Mystère Autour d'Parfum
Photo: PR Autour d'Parfums

To my nose the fragrances of Autour d'Parfum are good and affordable, robust perfumes that highlights some basic ingredients in perfumery. These fragrances are perfect as a base for the woody-oriental/ oriental section when start building a perfumewaredrobe.  Other robust, priceworthy basic fragrances is Les Nereides with a good Patchouli Patchouli Antique and good musks as Musc Samarkand and Musc de Java. Also the "solinotes" perfumes of Molinard is good as fore example Molinard Ambre, Vanille, and Patchouli.

Autour d'Parfums - Ambre Mystère

Picture: Padparadscha
Photo: List of birthstones.com (c)

The ambre of the Autour d'Parfums line Ambre Mystère is in the sweet, vanillic and pleasable category. It starts with a sweet ambery, almost burnt, caramelized accord in stye of the sweet ambre of Molinard Ambre (swe) but  lighter and with less dept in the caramelized notes. Ambre Mystère continues quite linear with its sweet ambery, balsamic and vanillic notes. Wearing Ambre Mystère I immadiately got the image of a beutiful Padparadscha, the orange and pink colored gemstone in the saphire (corundum) family.

It's easy to wear amber that suits perfect during the colder months but also in summer evenings. The sillage is close and longevity for about a day. It's officefriendly and would not offend even in close sourroundings.

Rating: 3

Notes: Amber, perubalsam, tolubalsam, labdanum, vanilla, patchouli, vetiver

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Autour d'Parfums - Poudre d'Iris

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Poudre d'Iris is the iris interpretation in the affordable fragranceline from Autour d'Parfums which contains good and priceworthy "down to earth" basic fragrances in the same way as fore example the houses of  Les Nereides and Molinard.

Poudre d'Iris starts like a bit sweeter but in the same time thinner version of the neroli/orangeblossom dominated accord of Prada Infusion d'Iris Edp. After the initial phase, Pd'I becomes sort of wet powdery, like putty in  texture, and a note of almondblossom, with the characteristic (good) smell of the classic swedish paperglue, Carlssons klister, appears. This white glue also has this sort of texture as Pd'I reminds me of. The iris is note the rooty, carrotlike, harsh type, it's velvet flowery, as I image iris would smell if the flower had a scent. In the basenotes Pd'I is almost powdery, edible, gourmand and here it reminds me a bit of Guerlain Tonka Imperiale but softer and less sweet. There is also something with the irismix in Pd'I that reminds me of a quite different fragrance, the classical  80s light spicy floral Turbulences by Revillon

To me Pd'I induces the image of a sheer but in the same time heavy, light purple silkchiffon veil embrodied with gold and amethysts, the exquisite veil of a grand odalisque. Pd'I is very wearable and even if a tad sweeter, just as officefriendly Infusion d'Iris. Longevity is for more than 12h and sillage is close.

Rating: 4

Notes: Neroli, angelica, iris powder, almond blossom, heliotrophe, white musk, almond, sandalwood

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Fragrances of the week (36) 2013 - Fragrant thoughts

Picture: Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodphur,
the Maharaja resides in a part of it
Photo: Ss2107 (cc) Wikimedia Commons

Penhaglion's Vaara has received mixed reviews and some reviewers seems to be quite reserved when having an opinion about it, emphasize that it's a well made fragrance but on the other hand to mainstream-ordinary and not enough indian in style. Despite the doubts of others: I really like Vaara, it's a sort of airy and balmy oriental-floral, with a light rose-saffron combination which is pleasant and very wearable. I also don't find Vaara especially ordinary as the note of quince gives the fragrane an own character. Coriander also gives a sort of fresh, oriental vibe. I can imagine a scent like this wafting through a Maharajas palace and as the perfume is a tribute to the granddaugther of the Maharaja of  Marwar Jodphur, named Vaara, I find the creation credible. On the other hand, I havn't visited a Palace of a Maharaja so of course I don't know, just speculating.

Talking of Orientals: When I visited one of the major departmentstores the other day, some stylish spanishspeaking touristing ladies in their (I guess) sixties, passes by me. And what a wonderful scent trail they wafted: Deep and full spicy orientals, far away from the pale, fresh, meeky fragrances the swedish women wears, if not wearing shrill and overly sweet fruitchoulis of course. These ladies wore distinct, classy perfumes and I have to confess that I turned around and went after them for a short while just to inhale. This experience made me crave for wearing YSL Opium.

Last but definitly not least: One of the most intriguing releases this autumn is IMO Puredistance Black. For this fragrance no notes or fragrancefamily is disclosed, Puredistance just want us to enjoy and relax without so much analysis. As I love the Puredistance fragrances I really looking forward to test this and try to do at least some analysis, an interesting challenge.

Autour du Parfums - Encens d'Ange

Picture: Two Winged Putti (ca 1748-50)
Drawing of Francois Boucher (1703-1770)

Encens d'Ange is a perfect name for this light incese fragrance from Autour du Parfums a line that I have to say is quite affordable, ca EUR 43 for 50 ml.

I also have to confess that I'm not so fond of the opening accord of Encens d'Ange as it somehow reminds me of ELDO Jasmine et Cigarettes but without the cigarette butt note of the latter but with the same almost wast flowery note as JeC. And that even if there are no flowery notes mentioned in the notelist. But topnotes are there to fade and after a while Encense d'Ange becomes deeper with confier and incense notes. The incense is still light and the green softwood/fir needle lends some a sort of forest freshness to the composition. There is also a well balanced note of pencilshavings typical for cedarwood somewhere in the middle of the fragrance. As Encens d'Ange deepens in the basenotes, there are plesant notes of resins amplified by a discrete musk which together creates a sort of pleasant moisty, earthy note with almost a touch of fresh tabacco.

 Encens d'Ange in its somehow fresh lightness, is a perfect incense fragrance for summer, it blooms used during a warm and a bit humid summerday. It's appropriate to wear both for work and casual. The longevity is very good, for at least a day and the sillage is medium.

Those who like uplifting incenses as L'Artisan Parfumeur Passage d'Enfer and Dzongkha, Serge Lutens L'Eau Froide and Andy Tauer Incense Extreme will probably also appreciate Encens d'Ange. That even if the exemplified fragrances are more distinctive in charchter and Encens d'Ange smoother and easier to wear.

Rating: 4

Notes: Mandarin, bergamot, incense, perubalm, tolubalm, firbalm, benzoin, cedarwood, musk, cistus labdanum

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of Encens d'Ange.

Mission completed!

An adventurous colluege and me couldn't resist (despite all negative sayings that it's not possible to see the President) going to this institution not far away from our office where Barck Obama made one of his visits. Here he is, in the Beast, photographed by my colleague (all credits to her for the picture:-), we saw him waving when passing the crowd.
It will be fun reporting in the office tomorrow - We did it !!!

SOTD: I dug up my sample of Tommy Girl from Tommy Hilfiger, I'm a little weak for this sort of honest, american applepie, american dream, styled scent, Calice Becker did a good job here, as almost always. And Barack Obama is indeed the image of the american dream, the regular guy who through hard work reached the highest position in the world. Mr Parfumista also chosed american but a more sofisticated style: DK Man in its original 90s version.

Welcome Mr President!

Picture: President Barack Obama
Official photo from whitehouse.gov

Tomorrow, the most important visit in the history of Stockholm (so far) will happen: The President of the United States of America, Barack Obama will visit our capital for one days. Stockholm is under surveillance and there will be a gigant traffic jam as early as hours before Air Force One is approaching Arlanda Airport. The President will visit an institution a few hundred  meters from my office and today we have debating  whether or not we have a chance to see a glimpse of him if going there. Unfortunately it's just to realise it's better watching the webcast but it's so irritaing having the most powerful man in the world as near as tomorrow and not beeing able to see him :-(

To celebrate this great event tomorrow there will of course be an american SOTD, something from Estee Lauder, Donna Karan or why not my favorite american Amoureuse from Parfums DelRae.

Autour du Parfum - Patchouli Tonka

Photo: Patchouli Tonka
Photo: Promotion Autour du Parfum

Autour du Parfum is a fragranceline founded by Eline Pajot who had worked for many years with developement and marketing in the parfume and cosmetic industry. There are four fragrances in her Private Collection, which all seems to searching back to the origin of perfumery, straightforward, wellcrafted singlenotesperfumes.

Patchouli Tonka is such a straightforward patchoulifragrance which creates that genuine impression. Patchouli Tonka starts similar to Les Nereides Patchouli Antique. It's a dark, woody, earthy patchouli, rough and tough (but not as rough as Patchouly Indonesia from Farmacia SS Annunziata dal 1561), not the polite by amber sweetened patchouli. As Patchouli Tonka dries down, the patchouli softens and gets smoother, even if the woody, by this stage, slight earthy, impression remains. Probably there is the soft, sweetness of the tonka and some light almost herbal-minty vanilla in the base that balances the raw, erthy notes to a pleasent, velvety, dark impression.

Patchouli Tonka is a perfect casual fragrance year around and perfect for the late summer/early autumn strolling around searching for mushrooms in the forest. It's also comfortable to wear at work. Sillage is medium and longevity for about a day.

For those who are searching for a straightforward patchoulifragrance in the woody, almost herbal. not ambery, end of the spectra like Molinard Patchouli and Etro Patchouly, Patchouli Tonka is a very good and also quite affordable choice SEK 370 (ca USD 58 and EUR 44).

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, orange, geranium, patchouli, sandalwood, cedar, tonka been, vanilla

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of Patchouli Tonka.

Guerlain Chamade - Quick comparison between vintage and current

Picture: Chamade
Photo: PR Guerlain (c) 

A fun activity as a part of the perfumehobby is the side by side comparisations on skin or on scentsstripes. When comparing frags by skintesting I normally compare just two, one on each arm.

On of the most exciting excercises is to compare current and vintageversions of fragrances. Below are my short impressions comparing Guerlains green flowery classic Chamade from 1969, the forerunner to other clsssics as Chanel No19 (1971), Van Cleef & Arpels First (1976) and Annick Goutal L'Heure Exquise (1984).

Left arm Guerlain Chamade Edt vintage don't know exact age probably ca 20y.The topnotes its off and I have read on the Guerlain expert, Mr Guerlains blog ,that Chamade doesn't age well. After the oldsmelling topnotes have evaporated the sharp galbanum, the edgy smell of the bulbflowers and a dry gunpowdernote comes forward. The basenotes are warm and comforting, compared to the cool and balmy base of No 19.

Right arm: Chamade Edp current version some pleasant fruity notes blended among the green crisp bulbflowers and no sharp galbanumnote, it's sort of rounded out for the fruity notes. Overall, the current Edp have not the same dept and strenght as the vintage Edt.The Edp is more pleasant and wearable, probably because of the damaged topnotes in Edt. All together I prefer the Edp for wearing and Edt for testing to investigating the deeper facets of the fragrance.

Quick impressions - Made in Italy

Picture: The Capitoline she-wolf with the boys Romulus and Remus. 13th century AD with figures of Romulus and Remus added in the 15th century
Museo Nuovo in the Palazzo dei Conservatori, Rome,
Source: Wikipedia Commons

I truly appreciate the dramatic and not always so well-polished italian fragrancestyle. Here are impressions of some nice ones I have sampled:

Rosamunda (Laboratorio Olfattivo): A pink Lady Vengeanance, even if this is a rose/(light)oud mix instead of rose/patchouli in the contemporary style which I appreciate so much. Uplifting and longlasting, perfect for a summerday.

Nirmal (Laboratorio Olfattivo): A Prada Infusion d'Iris follower, lighter, a bit sweeter and maybe a bit meek in comparation with the Prda. Overall a nice iris which is suitable for office, couldn't bother anybody.

Roma Imperiale (Profumi del Forte): This sweet flowery beauty with some wellbalanced almost cookielike notes with some dangerus, on the verge to dirty notes luring behind mus be a Maria Candida Gentile creation. I recognize the latter intriguing notes from creations of her own line.

Versilia Aurum (Profumi del Forte): How could a fragrance with strawberry be so good? Smooth, tender, not too sweet, longlasting and a pleasure to wear. It's like the strawberry blossom has been bottled in a golden nectar.

La Divina Tubereuse (Antonio Visconti): True, fresh and crispy daytime tubereuse growing in the garden.Not the dangereus, carnal nighttime facet of this beautiful flower. One of the very best, if not the best, fresh tubereuses I have tried so far.

Rebel (Antonio Visconti): Elegant and polished patchouli, no dirty hippies which could be indicated by the name. This is the minor rebellion of the well-bred heir.

Piper Nigrum (Lorenzo Villoresi): The ultimate spicy fragrance, it's like true spices are bottled. A bit harsh and strong for me but just perfect for Mr Parfumista after some testing, the first test was not successful..The Villoresi fragrances is not easy, they don't flatter at once, they have to be worn several times to be truly appreciated.

Teint de Neige (Lorenzo Villoresi): I have reviewed TdN earlier but as I like it more and more (it has grown to love) I have to mention this stunning gunpowdery/soapy Villoresi creation where some dirty notes just could be glimpsed under the white cleanness. The model for contemporary, retro, soapy aldehydes

Coquillete - Impressions of Herat & Moramanga

Picture: Coquillete minis
Photo: PR Coquillete (c)

My impressions of the fragrances of the Coquillete line is continuing today with short reviews of Herat and Moramanga:

Herat: Sort of well-behaved and fresh ELDO Jasmine & Cigarettes but without the off-putting old-cologne/dirty notes that I percieve from J&C. Herat is cigarettesmoke, jasmine, fresh tobacco-and balsamic notes, the incense and the other fumes are rather quiet to my nose. When Herat dries down it takes an unexpected twist, suddenly it smells like a less distinct and weaker Cuiron  the unfortunately discontinued contemporary Helmut Lang leather. I think Herat is a unisexfragrance but from the four Coquilletes Herat it is the most masculine offering.

Rating: 4

Notes: Tobacco, jasmine, ylang-ylang, amber, cannabis, myrrh, labdanum, incense, moss, vetiver, ambergris

Moramanga: Starts with a beautiful fleshy jasmineaccord which reminds med of the Serge Lutens jasmine classic A la Nuit. As Moramanga dries down other tropical flower appears and underscores the jasmine just as the vanilla/musk and warm resinnotes in the base. If I didn't already owned A la Nuit Moramanga would be a candiate for the lush jasmine in the perfumewardrobe.

Rating: 4

Notes: Jasmine, gardenia, iris, tolu balsam, opoponax, benzoin, tubereuse, ylang-ylang, vanilla, musk

The Coquillete fragrances are all pleasant and easy to wear with good longevity and moderate to medium projection. They are non-offensive and totaly officefriendly. The fragrances are good for summer, these are the type of fragrances that intensifies in warm weather and longevity is good about more or less a day tested in hot weather. The overall impression is that one fragrances is in the same pleasable and wearable track as the By Kilian In The Garden of Good and Evil - line (Sulmona), two gentler, not as edgy, ELD'O-styled releases (Herat, Sumatera) and one in the classic soliflore-genre (Moramanga). The line is well worth trying if searching for a comfortable, not so complicated but in the same time interesting, good smelling fragrance. A set of minibottles of 5 ml each is avaible and provides a good option for extensive testing.

Coquillete - Impressions of Sulmona & Sumatera

Picture: Sulmona
Photo: PR Coquillete (c)  

Coquillete Paris is a nichebrand started by two perfumeinterested women in creative professions. The fragrances are inspired from their travels among the world and captures the emotions and impressions from these journeys. Coquillete seems to be a  mysterious brand, I havn't found out either who the founders name nor the nose of the four first fragrances of scheduled six. Despite the "Paris" in the name the Coquillete brand seems to be based in Milan.

Sulmona: Sulmona opening like an almondcoockie paired with tropical flowers and then dries down over a vanillic base. A pleasent, warm and non-disturbtive, oriental, floral, vanilla with modest projection and good longevity. Smells straight forward good without any unexpected twists. A fragrance in the tropical vanilla family as for example Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Fleurs de Comores but without the contrasting slight dirty notes of the latter. Despite its sweetness, Sulmona is a good easy to wear fragrance for summer.

Rating: 3

Notes: Vanilla, sugar, bitter almond, orangeblossom,

Sumatera: Sumatera is said to be derived from only fresh patchoulileaves and with no use of dried leaves and this will give it a soft character. If there is the leaves or something else that gives the soft character that I percive I dont know. Sumatera is sort of soft and sweet light herbal combined with a soft cinnamon which to me is the dominating note in this fragrance. Cinnomon often tend to be a bit harsh but this is definitly not the case here. To me Sumatera is like a soft and refreshing cinnamon tea. Intriguing and special.

Rating: 4

Notes: Patchouli, jasmine, different white flowers, cinnamon, black pepper, cedarwood, musk, vanilla, jasmine

My impressions of the other two Coquillete fragrances will be posted in the next entry.

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the samples to test

Jardins d'Écrivains - Gigi

Picture: Gigi by Jardins d'Écrivans
Photo: PR Jardins d'Écrivains (c) 

Gigi is the other feminine floral in the literature and garden inspired fragranceline of the house of Jardins d'Écrivains. Gigi is inspired of La Belle Époque and Colettes novel Gigi, about a parisian girl groomed to be a courtesan by her grandmother.

Gigi starts with a sunny accord of orangeblossom, tubereuse and jasmin supported by some fresh greenery and a hint of a cocos note often recognized together with tubereuse, I think it's one facet of the flowers scent. Soon also a subdued fruity note appears which deepens the fragrance just a bit, but the transparant sparkling impression is still dominating. Further in the dry down an almost nailpolish like note (but not in the chemical way) appears but in a pleasant way. I think it's the black currant paired with the, in this stage, nondescript white flowers that creates this effect. The base is moderately woody-musky and supports the other notes in a in a harmonious way.

Moderate I think is the right way to describe Gigi. It's a nice and gentle without any strange passages, a typical IFRA/EU compliant floral fragrance of today. Gigi is not in the putty/powdery/soapy floral genre which is typical for the releases of the latest year, Gigi is clean, transparant, white floral. Unfortunately it seems as my skin almost eat Gigi, and even if there is clear traces left after a day of wearing, the fragrance ends up somehow bland for me. Even the other feminine Jardins d'Écrivains the cologne La Dame aux Camélias appears much clearer, is more distinct and creates images to me, than the Edp Gigi. Gigi is very officefriendly and easy to wear.

Those who likes fragrances like Prada Infusion de Tubereuse, the original Gianfranco Ferré (with the same name) and Ramón Monegal  Kiss My Name and Lovely Day, despite the three latter are way more distinctive and have more expressed personalities, I think also could appreciate Gigi.

Rating: 3

Notes: Freshly cut grass, orangeblossom, neroli, tubereuse, jasmin, blackcurrant, sandalwood,white musk

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of  Gigi

Jardins d'Écrivains - La Dame aux Camélias

Picture: Marie Duplessis (1824-1847)
Watercolor by Camille Roqueplan (1802-1855)

La Dame aux Camélias from french nichhouse Jardins d'Écrivains is something so unusual as a Cologne de Nuit, a cologne to be used for bedtime pleasures. Of course any type of light fragrance could be used if one have the need to be perfumed round the clock but La Dame aux Camélias seems to be perfectly composed for the purpose as it not has the effervescent and uplifting effect as citrusdominated colognes.

La Dame aux Camélias starts with classic orangeblossom cologne notes blended with green and supported with a very smooth cardamom. The impression is that of  freshly laundered high quality linen sheets but without any contemporary detergent note. After a while an accord of delicate, subtle a bit oldfashioned (in a good way) and chilly flowers joins. The scent is clean but underneeth there is something almost on the verge to dirty, light animalic and maybe it's the indolic facet of orangeblossom that makes itself known combined with the musk and powdery tonka of the base. La Dame aux Camélias is a fragrance that triggers the imagination, I can well imagine that this was the scent of the exclusive linen sheets of the real Dame aux Camélias, the courtesan Marie Duplessis who also was the mistress of Alexandre Dumans the younger and the model for Marguerite Gautier in his novel La Dame aux Camélias (1848).

Beeing a colognestyled fragrance, La Dame aux Camélias should be applied liberally and if so, it lasts for a day, anyway if the weather is rainy and the conditions are humid. La Dame aux Camélias is intruiging and in the same time easy and pleasant to wear, entirely officefriendly. And the genereous 250 ml bottle is so beautiful....

Picture: La Dame aux Camélias
Photo: PR Jardins D'Ecrivains

Those who like fragrances such as Prada Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger, Guerlain L'Heure Bleue Edt and Parfumerie Générale Corps et Ames Eau de Toilette Apaisante will probably also appreciate La Dame aux Camélias.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Verbena, cardamom, orange blossom, violet, rose, camellia, tonka bean, musk, juniper wood

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of  La Dame aux Camélias

Robert Piguet -Alameda

The Femme fatale spirit of Alameda - Salome
oil on canvas by Franx von Stuck 1906
Wikimedia commons

Alameda by Aurlien Guichard is a strange and intriguing fragrance from one of my favorite houses Robert Piguet. Alameda is classified as a floral chypre but it also has traces of animalic, gourmand and aldehydic accords.

Alameda starts in a classic animalic-floral-chypre way but in a contemporary interpretation of the style of for example Estee Lauder Knowing and Montana Parfum d'Peau. The animalic note is relatively clean, it's somehow like the smell of a new fur. But soon the chypre impression is dimmed with an almost gourmand, dry, light spicy, cookie accord. As the fragrance moves further a light powdery-clean-earthy-rosy almost light aldehydicstyled accord appears and this accord intesifies and different twists appears during the dry down. The earthiness of the orris is without the carrots, it's like this note has been removed.  In the basenotes, Alameda ends up in a beautiful animalic chyprebase similar to how I image Montana Parfum d'Peau or La Perla (classic) would  have smelled if these fragrances were created today.

Picture: Alameda by Robert Piguet
Photo: PR Robert Piguet (c)

Alameda is a fragrance which performs with different twists during different wearings. It's a complicated fragrance which take a wearing or two to really appreciate. Just as I want from my perfumes, Alameda is intriguing, the wearer doesn't know what will happen next in the dry down, this perfum is not about just smelling good, it's also about a challenge. To apply Alameda sparingly is a must, the fragrance is concentrated and could be overwhelming if applying too much, my preferred dose is three squirts. Alameda is classified as unisex, to me it's definitly feminine but could, as complex as it is, probably develope in a quite different way, on a man. Can't convince Mr Parfumista to try as he thinks it's a real Femme fatale fragrance.

Alameda is a rich fragrance with great sillage and longevity for 24h+. It's not the fragrances for the scentfobic office but in a fragrancefriendly surrounding, a light dose could be nice preferably during the dark and cold season. For eveing and festive occasions, Alameda is just amazing.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, rose, lily, orris, patchouli, amber, castoreum

Robert Piguet - Rose Perfection

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Rose Perfection is another new creation by Aurelien Guichard the housenose of the venerable perfumehouse Robert Piguet. Before creating a bunch of new fragrances the latest years, Guichard also has re-interpreted most of the Robert Piguet classics. Rose Perfection was launched as an Harvey Nichols exclusive.

Rose Perfection starts with a quick whiff of the typical green rubberlike not which is typical for natural roseoils. Soon the fragrance transforms in a fizzy very pink velvet rose. It has a natural sweetness and the scent of the pink petals are dominating even if slight offset by just a gentle dose of the green tart smell from the stem, leaves and thorns. In other bright rosefragrances where the tart note is more distinct, the impression of the rose is more of rosewater from a wild rosebush  as for example Annick Goutal Rose Splendide and Lostmarc'h Iroaz. Rose Perfection is far away from this wild roses, Rose Perfection is a highly cultivated rose with an impressing pedigree growing in the symmetrically designed garden of a french renaissance castle. In style and apperance Rose Perfection reminds me of Serge Lutens Sa Majesté la Rose another elegant pink rose primarily focusing on the delicate rosepetals instead of the rose as a whole. The beautiful, perfect, almost airy clean rose of  Rose Perfection is said to be a blend of different matching notes from destilations of different types of roses. A slight musky base supports and highlights the rosy perfection.

Rose Perfection is perfect for summer, capable to manage even a warm day as it has a great longevity (24h) and stays lightly on my skin also after the morningshower. The sillage is medium and it blooms beautiful a summerday. I'm also convinced that Rose Perfection will do well  also during the colder month especially as the rose has a soft, almost velvet character and not the lighter texture of rosewater.

To me Rose Perfection is the rose equivalent to Robert Piguets beautiful  interpretation of orangeblossom Blossom and just as the latter, highly addictive. Both fragrances are bright, happy, sparkling and in the same time comfortable, relaxing and real pleasure to wear. Just perfect!

Rating: 5

Notes: Citrus, rose, floral notes, musk

Fragrance(s) of the week (31-35) 2013 - Worth waiting for....

Picture: Just varnished vintage Grythyttan A2:s  *)
outside the archipelago house, July 2013
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Most of the summer is gone and so is also most of the vacation. But there is still warm and wonderful summer outside and mostly I'm wearing light and easy to wear fragrances.At the moment I'm not especially intrigued of new releases but there are some that triggers my interest from fragrances that will be launched this autumn and I hope I get the opportunity to test at least some of:

Parfums de Nicolaï: At least two oud fragrances aimed to the Middle East market. Oud and the technical skillful Patricia de Nicolaï can't go wrong.

Serge Lutens: As usual the Exclusive of the year from SL is worth waiting for. This years Iron maiden, La Vierge de Fer which is said to be a hard, ironlike lily with incense, seems promising.

Mona di Orio: As Monas perfums are among my most treasured, I'm of course intrigued by the Les Nombres d'Or La Violette Fumee even if I suspect it's leaning more to the masculine side.

Andy Tauer: Seems to experimenting with some exclusive roseextract from Afganisthan in order to release a rose centred perfume before Christmas. Roses from Andy is must haves, as most of the other fragrances also.

ByKilian: The fourth fragrance of In the Garden of Good & Evil collection Playing with the Devil will be launched during the autumn. I hope this one will be dark and dangerous in stye compared to the very wearable, well-behaved and well-crafted first three fragrances of the garden-line.

Robert Piguet: Always awaiting news from one of my all time favorite houses Robert Piguet. Insomnia, judged from the name this seems to be a truly  mysterious fragrance. I'm thankful for the extensive efforts of the Robert Piguet CEO Joe Garces to restore and further develope this fine perfumebrand. Here is an very interesting post from CaFleureBon describing this work.

Neela Vermiere Creations: The new Ashoka by Bertrand Duchaufour seems to be very good according to reports from the lucky ones that have the opportunity to test it. And Mohur Extrait will certainly be something that I like.

Update mid-August: Puredistance Black: A new Puredistance is annoncued for December and this is really something to looking forward to. I love this house, a dark follower to the terrific I, Antonia, M and Opardu is just great. Already planning for a review....

Which new releases are you looking forward to?

*) Grythyttan A2 is one of the most (if not the most) classical swedish garden furniture, the A2 chair and table was designed to the Stockholm exhibition 1930 and are still produced. The set on the picture is from the late 1940s/early 50s and have since then stood the test of the sometimes hard weather of the archipelago with just minor repairs and varnishing.

Robert Piguet - Bois Bleu

Picture: Bois Bleu in its stylish, classical
Robert Piguet bottle 

Bois Bleu is created by the (almost) in house perfumer Aurlien Guichard for Robert Piguet and is the latest addition (spring 2013) to the Nouvelle Collection from 2012. Bois Bleu is classified as an unisex woody aromatic fragrance.

Bois Bleu starts with a intriguing blend of citrus and bergamot. The accord is somehow muted, it's note the sparkling, sunny a bit bitter uplifting accord which has evaporated when the topnotes are gone, but a sort of massive, much deeper accord which in texture and apperance, even if not so close in the citric smell, reminds me of the start of Mona di Orios Lux (swe) but more masculine. My first impression is that, just as with the aromatic NoteS of the Nouvelle Collection, Bois Bleu leans to the masculine side on the unisexscale.
But as always with Piguet fragrances, many things are going on and suddenly Bois Bleu becomes less aromatic and more spicy as a delicious note of nutmeg appears and take the centerstage still with the muted citric notes accompanying. The nutmeg is balancing a dry, non-sweet violet which is almost woody in character, Threre is nothing of the sweet, candy like violet or the more green violet with violetleaves which are the most common interpretations. The citric,violet,nutmeg trio is underscored with a wellbalanced woody base of vetiver, sandalwood and cedar where I think the warm and slight sweet character of sandalwood comes very well to its right. Bois Noir is subtle and engage the wearer during the whole dry down. The overall impression remains, despite the warmer, spicier part in the middle, that Bois Bleu is a more masculine in character but women searching for an aromatic fragrance should not hesitate to try it.

Trying Bois Bleu on Mr Parfumista the fragrance appears in a different way. The separate notes are much more distinct and the whole fragrance is brighter and somehow fresher. There is something in the mix and in the general impression of Bois Bleu there that on Mr Parfumista smells like a 2010s styled, refined and dimmed version of the wonderful Zino Davidoff from the 80s but without the distinct patchouli of the latter.
   
Just as its companions in the Nouvelle Collection, Bois Bleu is a fragrance of its own even if there is something familiar in the overall aura and some traces in common with two other Nouvelles: The nutmeg from Casbah and the sandalwood from Bois Noir. Bois Bleu is more discrete than the powerful Bois Noir, the sillage is medium but the longevity is very good, traces are still there after 24 h.

Rating: 5 (on Mr Parfumista) 4 (on me)

Notes: Bergamot, citruses, nutmeg, violet, sandalwood, cedarwood, vetiver

5 top green summer fragrances

Picture: Crowded on the waterway to Stockholm in July
Photo: Parfumista (c) 

As I wrote in a post recently, I'm perfumwise, in tune with the season this summer i.e I don't long for the darker and heavier fragrances of autumn/winter which is quite common for me. This summer is green in different interpretations to me and even if I don't have time to wear all the fragrances mentioned, there is always some new samples in waiting for test, I sniff them regulary and ensure that the rest of the family wears some of them.

Coton Egyptien (Phaedon): Finally, thanks to Mr Parfumista and the kids who used up my sample, I get this elegant, casual, galbanum light, freshly ironed, high quality crisp cottonfabric fragrance. There is no detergent vibes in this as in for example Serge Lutens L'Eau Serge which is a perfume in a similar style but with a chemical (in a positive way) apperance. The Phaedon line is re-packing in new bottles and it seems as Coton Egyptien is discontinued as it doesn't appear among the re-bottled fragrances. At present Fragrance & Art sells the Phaedons in the old bottles, among them Coton Egyptien, to a reduced price.

Vent Vert (Pierre Balmain): The soapy, slight salty, light musky notes combined with galbanum of the current version reminds me of the archipelago, more particulary the wood-fired sauna with the following bath in the cold seawater. My appreciation of the current version is growing, I like it as much as the older, sharper, more elegant version.

Cologne Friction (Parfums de Nicolaï): This gentle, crisp, grassy cologne is like sunwarmed grass added with a light accord of the non-cocnut classical austrian sunscreen Snikk. I think Cologne Friction is on my top summer fragrances list almost every year, it is so relaxing and versatile. Unfortunately it seems as it's discontinued when looking at the new Parfums de Nicolaï website.

Vetiver (Guerlain): Mr Parfumista wears both one of the later Edt versions and a vintage Edc. Both are great (even) for summer. The Edt version (with better longevity) is a bit soapy, with a lighter touch of vetiver, in the Edc the vetiver is more concentrated, smells almost as, but not as strong, the pure vetivernote in LesNez Turtle Vetiver.

Cristalle Eau Verte (Chanel): Another underappreciated Chanel IMO. This slight flowery, herbal, watery-green fragrance reminds me of a chilly and refreshing vermuthdrink loaded with icecubes a hot summerday. Perfect casual chic for work during the summer.

Fragrance(s) of the week (30) 2013 - About Mitsi

Picture: Autumn Red peach
Photo: Jack Dykinga, USDA, Wikimedia Commons

Earlier this week I performed a side by side comparasion between the current version of Mitsouko Edp and an earlier version about 10 years old (golden box with yellow fields). The overall impression is similar but I perceive the current version as brighter and thinner in texture, the peachnote is also a tad less ripe. There is also a note close to light vetiver in the base, probably some mossubstitute as I recognize this note from some contemporary chypres and such as Grossmith Golden Chypre. The older version is deeper, darker, moistier and mossier and the impression is more "old-styled". The peachnote is more ripe and light spicy, the base is darker and mossier.  The longevity is about the same for both versions.

I like both versions and just as with the Edt I think that the modern version is more wearable as it is better suited to the tastes of the 2010s, despite retro in style compared to most of the current fragranceofferings. The older version is more oldstyled and reserved for the days when the retromood appears. Overall the new version is a wellcrafted fragrance more intriguing and special even than most of todays niche-offerings.

Boucheron - Jaïpur Bracelet

Picture: Jaïpur Bracelet
Photo: PR Boucheron (c)

The jewellery house Boucheron has been in the fragrancemarket since 1989 when the iconic floral-oriental Boucheron pour Femme was released. Even if this first release still is the jewel of the crown, the 2012
Jaïpur Bracelet, flanker of another classic from the house Jaïpur, is a very pleasant finding. Jaïpur Bracelet is created by Carlos Benaim. An earlier and now discontinued flanker to Jaïpur is Jaïpur Saphire

Jaïpur Bracelet starts with a green, slight herbal, flowery accord accentuated with orange-citirc notes which when interacting creates an almost berry tune to the fragrance which in turn softens the sharpness and warms up the coldness of the crispy flowers; Lily of the valley, hyacint, iris and carnation. If this fragrance had a color it would be medium, velvety pink, a bit darker than the color of the Jaïpur Bracelet box and bottle. From top to base Jaïpur Bracelet reminds me of a less sweeter version of the first Lalique fragrance with the same name. The Lalique contains berry and fruity notes but also vanilla and some white flowers and as a 1990 release it is bolder and with a bigger silage even if Jaïpur Bracelet has a not contemptible silage to be created as late as 2012. Instead of vanilla, sandalwood and musk as in Lalique, Jaïpur Bracelet ends up in the wellbalanced woody-musky base of cashmerean. Another fragence that reminds me of Jaïpur Bracelet is the big, bold and sparkling Dior Pure Poison (one of the three cretors of this is Carlos Benaim) but compared to Pure Poison, Jaïpur Bracelet is almost low-key.

Jaïpur Bracelet is the ultimate comfort scent, a real wristsniffer, an uncomplicated but well composed fragrance that brightens up the most gloomy day. As Jaïpur Braclet is not too sweet and with an excellent longevity, 24h+, it's perfect to wear in warm and sunny summerdays.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Basil, violet leaves, lemon verbena, bitter orange, petitgrain, hyacinth, lily-of-the-valley, carnation, iris, cypress, cashmeran

Teo Cabanel - Méloé

Picture:Hay Harvest at Éragny by Camille Pissarro 1901,
Wikimedia commons, (cc) some rights reserved (PD-1923)

Méloé is created by perfumer Jean-Francois Latty for the perfumehouse Téo Cabanel. This house were originally started in Algiers in 1893 but moved to Paris 1908. The house were re-started 2005 and have launched several new fragrances since then, most famous is the floral-oriental Alahine.

Méloé start with sparkeling citrus-/mandarinenotes, offsetted by a slight bitter (in a good way), powdery bergamotnote. There is also a touch of herbal and spicy notes, nutmeg is appears clearly to me and also a touch of basil. Méloé is fresh but not in a chemical or sweet way and the florals seems equally balanced with herbs and spice and the fragrance feels somehow natural and wellblended. There is also an almost watery-floral touch to Méloé, like in Oscar de la Renta Live in Love and By Kilian Water Calligraphy, but in Méloé the watery impression is much more subdued, even if still there, than in the two related fragrances. In the basenotes there is a white musk supported by mossy and woody notes, which deepens the fragrance in a bit darker nuances of green. All together, Méloé to me is a sort of aromatic-floral, not fruity-floral as I have read somewhere. 

Picture: Méloé in its stylish bottle.
Photo: PR Parfums Téo Cabanel

Méloé is an upliftining, surprisingly longlasting fragrance.The blend is specified as an Eau Légére, which is supposed to be lighter than an Edt, but I can smell whiffs of it after almost 24h on skin and on fabric some days after the day I was wearing it. Méloé is suitable for daytime wear, especially for spring and summer, but also, as lighter fragrances lasts better in autumn/winter, for days when longing for something lighter during the darker and colder.

Even if Méloé bears similarities with other fragrances in the light, refreshing, floral genre it has its own identity, the green herbal tinge and slight bitter (in a positive way) note.

Even if not similar fragrances but similar in expression, those who enjoy De Bachmakov (also herbal notes) from The Different Company, Dior Escale à Pondichéry (the flower and spice) and Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte (the green, slight bitter flowers) also could like Méloé.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, mandarin, lemon, lavender, basil, neroli, orange blossom, jasmine, nutmeg, musk, moss, amber, woody notes

Fragrance(s) of the week (29) 2013 - Green &herbal

Here we are in the middle of the summer.Almost every year I have started long for the dark orientals of the autumn & winter by now but this year I'm more in tune whith the season and like to wear herbal and green perfumes such as:
 My SOTD Reverie au Jardin a bit neglected and forgotten Tauer.Green incense  lavandel herbal dry beauty, the always so wearable Cologne Friction from Parfums Nicolai, the salty, musky galbanum of Balmain Vent Vert (I appreciate the new version more and more) and the cotton clean galbanum of Coton Egyptien from Phaedon. Overall I like the unsweet and natural in style fragrances at the moment but theses preferences will probably change soon...

M.Micallef -Art Collection Rouge No 2

Picture: The beautiful bottle of Rouge No  2
Photo: PR M.Micallef (c), all rights reserved

Rouge No 2 in the M.Micallef Art Collection 2013 is a just as comfortable, delicious sibling to Rouge No 1. Just as the latter, Rouge No 2 is created by the Micallef housenose Jean-Claude Astier and the red stunning bottle, a variation of Rouge No 1 by Martine Micallef herself.

Rouge No 2 just as Rouge No 1 starts sweet and delicious but to my nose No 2 is less soft fruity-vanillic and  lend more to green, tangy black currant notes but with a fudgy gourmand edge. In the middlenotes a whiff of a note (not mentioned among the ingredients) that smells almost as soft non-sweet coconut occurs but the mainplayers are violet and orchid underscored with jasmine, making a more serious impression than the louder middlenotes of No 1. There is something in this stage that reminds me of a clean and proper version of ELDO Putain des Palaces. Unlike the latter, there are no dirty or dangerous notes lurking beneath and the violet-orchid combo is not lipstick-y nor powdery. Even the animalic note that appears (castoreum), is somehow clean as a brand new luxuary fur coat. Beside the animalic note also the rest of the base of Rouge No 2 is darker, with resins and less vanilla than No 1. Another fragrance that Rouge No 2 reminds me of is Poudre de Riz by Huitème Art.

Overall my impression is that Rouge No 2 are darker and the more serious, intorvert sibling of the Rouges. Rouge No 1 has a happier, easy to go and more extrovert character than No 2. Both fragrances will suit for the occasions when one have to take care of oneself and to be wrapped in Rouge No 2 is just as comfortable as to be surrounded by No 1. Just as the charcters of the fragrances, No 2 is preferred for philosophical and No 1 for more outreach activities. Rouge No 2 could be worn year around expect in sunny summerheat but is on the other hand, perfect for dark late summer evenings. Sillage is medium and longevity is for 24h. A wellblended fragrance of high quality. Rouge No 2 is just as good as No 1 but my favorite is No 1 as i find it more original and intriguing, Rouge 2 doesn't stand out from the crowd as much as No 1. I think they complement each other in a good way. Both Rouge No 1 and No 2 are well worth trying for those in search for a just enough sweet, olfactory delight of high quality. These fragrances have nothing in common with the shrill fruity-florals which could be found among some mainstream offerings.

Rating: 4

Notes: Citruses, black currant, nutmeg; jasmine, violet, orchid, vanilla, labdanum, amber, castoreum

M.Micallef - Art Collection Rouge No 1

Picture: The beautiful Rouge No 1 bottle,
created by Martine Micallef herself.
Photo:PR by Parfums M.Micallef (c)

Rouge No 1 is the first part of the summer 2013 limited edition Collection Rouge from the house of the artful and beautiful bottles and perfume M.Micallef. It's a highend fruity floral, created by the M.Micallef houseperfumer Jean-Claude Astier. The red bottles of the two Rouges are stunning to say the least.

Rouge No 1 starts soft vanillic-fruity with an accord that smells almost as smoothed red berries in creme but this is probably the peach interacting with the other notes in this very pleasant gourmand symphony. There is also a contrasting pleasant note of "dry dust on a lighted bulb" which is present in for example Mona di Orio Carnation and makes the opening quite interesting. Particulary in this stage, Rouge No 1 has similarities with the delicious creamy-berry-fruity Jeunesse from Robert Piguet which is a bit more edgy in style. In the next stage Rouge No 1 becomes more floral as also the wellbalanced white musk in the basenotes which gives a certain contrasting dept in this almost edible, yummy blend. The intresting and well balanced "dustnote"weakens during the dry down but a hint is still there in the base, something that I appreciate of course as I usually like  a"weird" twist in a fragrance.

Rouge No 1 is quite linear and confidently recognizable, with its returning but gradually evolving accords, during the dry down. Despite edible as a pastry, Rouge No 1 is not dense and thick or too sweet and therefore also suitable for summer. It blooms beautiful in warm weather, the musk anchors the other ingredients and ensures a good longevity for 12h+.  The overall impression is a fragrance constructed with high quakity ingredients with notes that are arranged in a wellbalanced harmony. Rouge No 1 is a true wrist sniffer,very comfortable and easy to wear.

Rouge No 1 could be interesting to those who like M.Micallef Ylang in Gold as they are close in style and also, there are similarities in the context (expect the patchouli) of Miss Dior Le Parfum and also the, IMO underestimated comfortscent, Chanel Coco Noir.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Peach, mandarine, ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine, vanilla, musk, benzoin

Fragrances of the week (28) 2013: Oliver & Co - Impression of the line

Picture: Oliver & Co Discoveryset
Photo: PR Oliver & Co, (c) all rights reserved

The Oliver & Co line definitly has its own natural smelling aromatic fresh style. Overall I find the unisex fragrances from the Oliver & Co house to be just a little bit more masculine than feminine in style (to use the stereotypes) probably because the absense of sweetness which I find carcteristic for the Olvier & Co fragrances as also the aromatic texture they all, more or less, have in common. Anyway, I think both genders should test these original creations.

All the fragrances are strong but refreshing and also long lasting which is not a common feature when it comes to fragrances with a high content of naturals. Those who like fragrances in the style of Commes des Garcons Incenseserie would probably appreciate the Olvier & Co line as they conveys the same impression but without incense as the line features other ingredients. My personal favorites are Mousse and Resina followed by La Colonia.

From Oliver & Co:s website there is possible to order a priceworthy discoveryset  which I think will last very long as each vial is 10 ml and as my 2 ml vials still lasts very well after assiduous testing.

Oliver & Co - Resina

Picture: Resin from pine
Photo: Meanos (cc) Wikimedia Commons,
some rights reserved

Resina is a natural smelling balsamic, spicy aromatic blend from spanish nichehouse Oliver & Co and as all the fragrances created by the owner of the house; Oliver Valverde.

Resina starts with the balsamic wowen plasternote that I like so much and which is distinct during the whole dry down in Comme des Garcons Jaisalmer but in Resina it soon withdraws from the centerstage as also a almost medical aromatic blast. Then a phase with balsamic, light spicy, unsweet caramellic and light woody notes appears, the ingredients seems almost seamless blended and the fragrances is soft and less aromatic. In this stage Resina gives me the impression of a non-sweet version of Prada Candy (swe) with a note that is very close to sandalwood (but as this ingredient is not listed it has to the skillful blending that creates this effect) instead of the sweet powdery benzoin in Candy. The overall impression of Resina is a natural smelling, warm and comforting fragrance with interesting twists from the spices and resins.

Even if wearable year around Resina IMO is the most cold season friendly fragrance from Oliver & Co. Its non-swetness makes it also possible to wear during the summer even if the warmest days should be avoided.
Longevity is great, 24h and sillage is medium. Beside Mousse, Resina until now is my favorite Olvier & Co fragrance. But who knows, further testings might change this order :-)

Rating. 4+

Notes: Tolu balsam, elemi, myrrh, labdanum, opoponax, jasmine sambac, incense, benzoin, coffee, flame tree, mace, rooibos tea, tonka bean, star anise

Oliver & Co - M.O.U.S.S.E and M.O.U.S.S.E II

Picture: Gewürznelkenbaum, Köhler
 Medizinal -Planzen, Franz Eugen Köhler (1897),
Wikimedia Commons

Mousse and Mousse II are slight different takes on a original fresh spicy clovetheme. Both are created by spanish indieperfumer Oliver Valverde who uses a high precentage of naturals in his, despite this, strong and lasting fragrances.

Moussse: Starts with a distinct scent of airy clove which is unsweet and natural in its interpretation. It's clean but without any detergentnotes despite its consistent supporting musky theme. Even if the clove is airy and transparent in texture, this fragrance is very strong and demands a light application. As Mousse dries down the clove is tamed by a soft sandalwood which perfectly balances the fragrance. In this stage there is a hint of the scent from a soft high quality carnation soap. To summarize Mousse it's the perfect spicy counterpart to Comme des Garcons excellent incense-pine creation Kyoto.   

As Mousse is a non sweet and fresh clove it's wearable also during the summer and the musky spicy clove blooms in warm weather. Mousse is also right to wear during the rest of the year, a versatile sort of timeless ( even if contemporary I can easily image a king of the baroque-era wearing this) unisex fragrance, despite IMO, just as Kyoto, Mousse is leaning to the masculine side. Sillage and longevity (24h+) are great.

Mousse II: This is an even more airy, almost ozonic take on the original Mousse. The clove is lighter and the whole scent is brighter and the fizzy fresh notes of mint and cardamom is added. There are also a strike of the crisp green lily of the valley accord from La Colonia. Overall Mousse II is more playful, brighter, lighter not as distinctive/sharp as the original Mousse and therefore easier to wear. It's also a more feminine unisex fragrance than the original Mousse. Sillage is good and longevity for a day. Etros transparant carnation with clove, Dianthus comes to my mind when wearing Mousse II even if Dianthus is more concentrated of the carnation than its clove notes

Even if Mousse is more masculine I prefer it as it is much more original and also genuinely highlights the clove. There is no attempts to quiet down the powerful clove as I perceive as an intention in the flanker Mousse II. But Mousse II is definitly a good choice for those who prefer a more blended and tuned down perfume featuring clove.

Rating: Mousse 5, Mousse II  3+

Notes Mousse: Lime, aldehydes, clove, lavander, oakmoss, sandalwood, musk
Notes Mousse II: Lime, aldehydes, clove, lavander, cardamom, mint, lily of the valley, sandalwood, ambergris, musk