Best of 2017

I have little to say about the 2017 releases as most fragrances I've tested this year was created in 2016 or the years just before. I liked both of the two great releases in 2017 much.Versatile and elegant/playful fragrances: Chanel Gabrielle and Hermès Twilly. This year Carner Barcelona Floral Collection also was nice even if I liked the Black Collection from 2016 better. Puredistance Warzawa, with its muted, dark, green elegance, was released for the entire market 2017 but was actually released in 2016, exclusive for the polish market.

Picture: Best of 2017
 Roger & Gallet Extraits de Cologne
Photo: PR Roger & Gallet (c)

My choice of best of 2017 is the classic Colognehouse Roger & Gallet Extraits de Cologne line. The fragrances are created by different, famous or upcoming perfumers. Some of the extraits de Cologne are as an Eau de Toilette (Edt) in radiance and stregnth and other somewhere in between Cologne and Edt. My favorites are Néroli Facètie (Fabrice Pellegrin) and Cassis Frénésie (Elise Benat) even if Tubereuse Hédoine (Anne Flipo) Thé Fantaisie (Alberto Morillas) and Verveine Utopie (Juliette Karagueuzoglou) comes close. The line is very well done and priceworthy given the quality (100 ml GBP 55 ). Lovely fragrances, would be great for Springtime.

The Fragrances of Christmas Eve 2017

Picture: Christmas tree 2017
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The Scent of Christmas Eve 2017 is the elegant retro and in the same time contemporary austere flowery-green Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford.  Suits a green Christmas very well I think. It's more like a partial sunny autumnday outside.

Mr Parfumista is wearing Incense Extreme by Andy Tauer. A light "white" incense swirling to the sky even if intense in performance. Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn the last fourteen Christmas Eves:

2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody)
2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals)
2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote)
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy)
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)

Let's have a Great Fragrant Christmas! 

Independence Day

Picture: Finlands "Blue Cross Flag"
Photo from Facts.co

Today our beautiful neighbour Suomi-Finland is celebrating 100 years as an independent country.       Congratulations Finland!

Thinking of Finland, I suddenly remembered there was some entertaining fragrant readings with finnish connection on Fragrantica a year or two ago. And here I found them, written by Eeva-Helena Laurinsalo.

Fragrant Finland: A Fresh Affair

Fragrant Finland: Saunas, Babies and Rive Gauche

Fragrant Finland: An Emerging Scentscape & Tax Free Vikings

Fragrant Finland: Lumene, Beauty Born of Light

And last but not least: Congratulations to my son who is celebrating his 15th birthday today!

Fragrantica Perfume Awards

Picture: Fallen falleaves
Photo: Parfumista (c)

An exciting initiative from Fragrantica - " We at Fragrantica decided to organize our own community awards which will be fully driven by your suggestions and votes. You can nominate up to 5 fragrances in each category and vote for or against  of each nomination". 

The awardcategories, submitted & voted by the Fragrantica community, are:

1. Best Fragrance Of All Times for Women
2. Best Fragrance Of All Times for Men
3. Best Unisex Fragrance Of All Time
4. The Worst Fragrance Of All Time
5. Best Women's Fragrance Voted by Men
6. Best Men's Fragrance Voted by Women
7. Best Discontinued Fragrance for Women, Bring It Back!
8. Best Discontinued Fragrance for Men, Bring It Back!
9. The Legend of the Latest Decade for Women
10. The Legend of the Latest Decade for Men
11. Best Fragrance of 2017 for Women
12. Best Fragrance of 2017 for Men
13. Niche Fragrance of 2017
14. Most Innovative Fragrance of 2017
15. Perfume House Of The Year
16. Best Perfume Bottle of 2017
17. Best Perfume Flanker of 2017
18. Most Underrated Fragrance
19. Most Overrated Fragrance
20. Best Fragrance for Hot Days
21. Best Fragrance for Cold Days
22. Fragrance with the Best Longevity
23. Best Bargain Fragrance for Women
24. Best Bargain Fragrance for Men
25. R.I.P - Beloved Perfumes Murdered by Reformulation

The voting is open 24 Nov to 1 Dec - Don't miss the chance to  have fun and to influence.

Further fragrance reading...

Picture: Novemberrose
Photo: Parfumista (c)

I'm in some sort of writer's block but others have interesting perfumrelated things to share. Here some links to articles/posts I've appreciated recently.

Intresting thoughts about the battle between two versatile, very likable, everyday  fragrances launched in 2017  Chanel Gabrielle and Hermès Twilly - like them both.

And here comes reviews of them Twilly on Perfume Shrine and Twilly on Now Smell This Twilly on The Scented Salamander, Gabrielle on Bois de Jasmin and Gabrielle on Now Smell This, Gabrielle on The Scented Salamander.

An article about styling the winter wardrobe with perfumes on Fragrantica. The picture of the snowmen is just great :-)

Bois de Jasmin share us some words of wisdom from Christian Dior’s Little Dictionary of Fashion  timeless advices about style which of course including perfume.

More vintage, here about vintage perfume bottles

And last but not least - an inteview (with photo) with the mysterious perfumer Pierre Montale who many people doubt exist. Anyway, somebody is interviewed here 

Styling with perfume

Picture: The frame for the perfumes of last week
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Styling the SOTD with suitable outfits and accessoires is almost a science, especially under timepressure which is the ordinary state in the early mornings during a working week. I have found a routine to tackle this "problem". Doing some planning in advance gives the opportunity to concentrate on the choice of  SOTD the following mornings. I'm not organized like this often, but sometimes I got the "flow". Here is an example from last week:

First of all I chose a theme for the SOTD:s for the coming week which in this case was autumnal + oriental + dark fragrances + classic. Then I chose the beckground, the canvas for the composition, black dresses in jersey or light woolblend qualities act as a dark, simple neutral background. As the everyday frame to the composition, I chose the reaible accessories pictured above: Mulberry Chester in textured goat, my favourite November - December Hermès cashmere-silk shawl Collections Imperiales in black with pattern in muted autumn and winter colours, the Freywille Attersee bangle, vintage rings in gold with pearls and cabochon amethysts and a simple strand of pearls. The olfactory brushstrokes which completed the composition for each workday were:

Monday - Dior Eau Sauvage not an oriental but on the verge of beeing heavy applied the basenotes with moss, amber and musk are more pronounced. Still with the golden citrus glimpses and dark green aromatic accord.

Tuesday - Guerlain Shalimar Edp what a pleasure to wear this classic I imagine Shalimar as auburn in colour. Elegant, special, comforting and warm. Timeless.

Wednesday - Penhaligon's Halfeti not a classic but a representative of the western oud trend: Loud peppery saffron, oud  and woody notes over somoother and pleasant accords of a very dark red rose, creamy amber and leather. Potent and radiating, lasts for days on textiles and also with traces on skin after more then one showering. If it had a colour: Darkest of red and black.

Thursday - Chanel Coco Edt spicy, soft, cosy, strong and radiating but still elegant. A contemporary classic. Just as Shalimar, a real pleasure to wear.

Friday - Burberry My Burberry Black I like Burberry fragrances, it seems as their DNA suits my skintype. This fragrance is deep, dark, fruity, boozy, smokey, balsamic in a such pleasant and warming way. It also lasts for days on my shawl.

End of report from my well organized perfume week.

Blog anniversary 11 years

Picture: Violettes du Czar
Photo: PR Oriza L Legrand (c)

Last Wednesday 1 November, Parfumistans Blogg celebrated 11 years and I was wearing the intriguing leather, gasoline, violet Violettes du Czar from Oriza L. Legrand. Since a couple of years I have noticed that November is the time of the year when  I crave Oriza fragrances the most. Probably something in their nostalgic DNA that goes with the mood of the season.

Picture: Eau Sauvage
PR Christian Dior (c)

When writing this post I'm wearing a true classic signed the great Edmond Roudnitska, Dior Eau Sauvage, to honor my father, who passed away 10 years ago today, far too young. Eau Sauvage was his signaturefragance and it was like tailormade for him. I find Eau Sauvage unisex, with cirtus, aromatic, subdued  flowery, mossy accords. It's casual fresh in an elegant retrostyle and lights up any gloomy Novemberday as well as beeing refreshing a warm summer day.

So far this year it seems as I'm not in the right mood for the real, heavy autumn/winterfragrances, probably this will change when winter strikes. Probably there will be another day in Eau Sauvage tomorrow, and I definitly think more women should try it.

Puredistance - Warszawa

Picture: Puredistance Warszawa
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

Puredistance Warszawa is a collaboration with the Missala family who sells Puredistance in their perfumeries in Poland. The perfume (extrait with 25 % perfumeoil) is created by perfumer Anotine Lie and is a tribute to Warszaw and it's people, inspired of the golden era of Warszawa in the begining of the last century. Warszawa was originally launched in 2016 and was sold exclusivity by Quality Missala for a year. Now it's at last avaible for the rest of us lovers of vintage styled fragrances.

The colour of Warszawa the fragrance is said to be dark green with some gold and grey, and that's is also my first impression of the fragrance. It's starts like an elegant, glowing fruity chypre and it reminds me very much of a restrained, darker and smoother variation of Yves Saint Laurent Yvrersse (Champagne). Yvresse is higher on the fragrance notescale and more extrovert whereas Warszawa is gentler and intimate in character. Warszawa is also less sweet and more flowery than Yvresse, more green where Yvresse has more of the golden glimmer, or to be correct, Yvresse sparkles and Warszawa glimmers. Galbanum is distinctive in the first part of Warszawa and it's then present during the whole dry down. In the middle notes the flowery accord first brightens with a fruity touch which gives me associations to the lipstick-textured fruitiness of Cartier Baiser Fou but in a darker and refined context. In one wearing the fruitiness stands out, the other wearing the more intoxicated, elegant, flowery notes. Warszawa is a fragrance with many layers and interesting twists. Later in the dry down an almost balsamic texture appears, wrapping the wearer in a gentle and mysterious skinscent. The basenotes are deep and dark green, with strikes of a mysterious golden glow, like the remains of a campfire in the dept of a big forest a dark night in the autumn.Warszawas slight cosmetic touch, without beeing powdery or too lipsticky also reminds me of a night in the opera or theatre in the pre WW1 era. Dim light, elegant women in fur, velvet and silk in dark jewellery colours, glowing gemstones, feather decorations, powder and heavy perfumes.



Pictures: Montage of Warsawa, Poland
Montage of  Foxy 1219 photos of  Radek Kołakowski, Marek和Ewa Wojciechowscy ,
 ekeidar, Marcin Białek, DocentX, Mateusz Włodarczyk
Wikimedia commons (cc) some rights reserved

Warszawa is a fragrance which has to be experienced in multiple wearings as new angles are appearing in each wearing. It's a fragrance for evenings around the year and for daytime wearing during the colder and darker months. The sillage is close, its a calm and quiet perfume, the longevity is for at least a day. A retro styled fragance in a contemporary interpretation.

Rating: 5

Notes: Galbanum, grapefruit, violet leaf, jasmin, broom, orris, patchouli, vetiver, styrax.

....and 5 other autumn frags

Picture: Maple leaves October 2017
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Last week was colder and autumn is now really here. Heavier stuff was worn, including some favourites such as:

White Oud (Montale): White, cuddling, with a white rose, something mashmallow-ish and a faint oudnote. Texture and smoothness like an angora kitten.

Amber & Spices (Montale): A pleasant, fizzy gingernote and warm spices with hints of a delicate rose and some oud. Smells like my grandmothers spice rack did.

Auburn (Andy Tauer): From the discontinued Pentachords-line (three fragrances built among just five notes). Auburn is warm, brown, cinnamon with tobacco and some white flowers. Even if a bit freaky synthetic, it's the ultimate autumnfragance. 

Sheiduna (Puredistance): Warm, embracing, spicy, balsamic whith some almost boozy notes. The ultimate pleasure to wear a grey, rainy day.

Incense Oud (Parfums de Nicolaï). Smells like the deep forest in autumn, damp and chilly, with dark green moss, tangy, slight herbal notes and earthy patchouli. A sort of refreshing fragrance. 

5 Autumn Fragrances 2017

Picture: Autumnleaves 2017
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Autumn is very rainy and quite warm this year. This weekend the sun was shining mauch and there was almost as late summer days. When it comes to fragrances, my choices are both "in between", transition fragrances or fragrances suitable for (almost) year around and some autumn/winter fragrances. And there are lot of Chanel I recognize when thinking of what I've worn lately.

Gabrielle (Chanel): The more I wear Gabrielle, the more I like it. This abstract, lightly glowing like an opal, restrained floral is an addicting fragrance. Gabriell is so easy and versatile to wear, attracting compliments and stay long on skin.

Twilly d'Hermès (Hermès): Ginger and a pale tuberose where the ginger is not too strong, it's just enough and adds a fizzy sparkle to the pale, watercolor tuberose. Twilly reminds me of a light outdoor variation of Vivienne Westwood Boudoir (the first version of it).

Coco Edt (Chanel): This one is of course for autumn and winter but is also a great transition fragrance. Warm, glowing like amber, with soft spicy notes where cinnamon most evident. A great spicy oriental, the Edt is more straightforward spicy than the Edp with it's more pronunced drak fruity and flowery notes.

1996 Inez & Vinoodh (Byredo): Light smooth leather over patchouli contrasted with the cold iris/violet and juniperberries that is very comforting and relaxing to wear. Perfect for grey, rainy days. Reminds me somehow slightly of the signature fragrance from Adrienne Vittadini.

Ambre Sauvage (Les Absolus Annick Goutal): A beautiful, dark, glowing amber. Like resting in front of the fireplace a dark and cold winterevening zipping on a good brandy or calvados. A clean an smooth amber contrasted by deep, black, patchouly.

Kerosene - Wood Haven

Picture: Wood from the Swedish forest.

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Wood Haven is created by John Pegg, the perfume reviewer that started his own house, Kerosene. Wood Haven is a fragrance in the a bit weird but tempting and in the same time “nice-to-wear” and “deja-vú”style that is typical for the house of Kerosene. The “deja-vú” feeling that is present with almost all Kerosense fragrances is both positive: I can recognize other frags that I like, sometimes several in one Kerosene composition as in the best of them all IMHO: Copper Skies. The negative part is that I feel a bit dissapointed, I mostly (but not always, a very wellconstructed and alternating frag close to another could be interesting anyway) get bored when a fragrance is too close or similar in style to another already existing fragrance.

Wood Haven starts with a grapefruitnote that I can recognize from one of the other woodinspired Kerosenes Santalum Slivers. A beautiful, mellow, sparkling, note of a yellow lemon glimpeses by, I wish this shining note would last more than just a short moment. Soon a dry grassy, green note appears, like long, wild, grass dried in the sun on a meadow. There is also a slight herbal tinge to the grassy note. After a while a slight moisty, vegetal accord arrives and balances the drieness. Some light, bright, light spicy and dry wood is present in a discrete and pleasant way, the smell recalls the smell of sun warmed bark on conifers. There is also a distinguishable note of vetiver present adding a slight, clean, earthy vibe to the barknote.

Wood Haven is a woody-fresh-grassy fragance, not woody-acquatic and not peppery-woody, which is enjoyable daytime, both for casual and work, year around.To me Wood Haven is a lighter and less distinctive version of L’Eau Guerriere by Parfumerie Generale, which is a more powerful fragrance in the fresh woody bark note category.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, black pepper, pink peppercorns, juniper leaf, ginger root, vetiver, cedar, gaiac wood

Thanks to Fragrantfanatic  (Riktig Parfym) for the sample of Wood Haven to test

Kerosene – Fields of Rubus

Picture: The 'Barnet' raspberry, a hand-coloured engraving after a drawing by Augusta Innes Withers (1792-1869),
from the first volume of John Lindley's Pomological Magazine (1827-1828), Wikimedia commons.

The Kerosene Fields of Rubus starts with a great deja-vú when it comes to me: I smell the great, robust and almost dusty, Patchouli Antique by Les Néréides. The patchoulinote dominates the topnote but after a while, step by step, a jammy, berry, note is sneaking into the blend, rounding up the almost harsh patchouli. Another moment later, the berrynote developes and shows to be the note of fresh picked raspberrys, for a while the smell of raspberry smells very true. Maybe the applenote mentioned among the notes contributes to the sparkle of the raspberry, I can’t smell it like a separate part, but I somehow can image it in this stage. After a while the jam is there again and Fields of Rubus becomes sweeter and similar to a raspberry, jam, vanillic, dessert with cream. As the fragrance developes the patchouli withdraws and becomes a player in the backgrund. The patchouli contributes to the dark facets in the base of Fields of Rubus, smoothed by the vanilla and musk that together with a light woody note, balances the though patchoulinote.

Before sampling, reading from the notelist and sniffing the outside of the sample vial, I had a great hope that Fields of Rubus would be as awesome as the ambery Copper Skies my favourite from the Kerosene line, but it turned out to be a good but not stunning fragrance when worn by me. Fields of Rubus starts interesting with the robust Patchouli Antique like accord and the sparkling raspberry that occurs after a while. But as FoR dries down it somehow loses some of its identity and ends up as an ok but not special scent. I wish Fields of Rubus would have developed in the opposite way, ie that the topnotes would form the base and vice versa.

Fields of Rubus is a fragrance suitable for autumn and winter as it creates a comfortable and sweet, delicious mood for the wearer. The sillage is medium and the longevity is good.

Rating: 3

Notes: Raspberry, plum, apple, tobacco wood, musk, vanilla, sandalwood, cedar, patchouli

Thanks to Fragrantfanatic  (Riktig Parfym) for the sample of Field of Rubus to test