Read this

Picture: Patricia de Nicolaï - a true Master Parfumer
Photo: PR Parfums de Nicolï (c)

Speaking of Guerlain, there is a very interesting interview on Fragrantica with the Guerlain descendant and true pillar of good and timeless perfumery; Patricia de Nicolï. I really  like her down to earth and
straightforward opinions about the current trends in perfumery.

Unfortunately, one can read between the lines, that future increases in prices are possible as the brand will start with marketing activities and has/will straighten up the bottledesign from their IMO old charming bottles with non-conform labels. So probably all the complainers about the "ugly bottles" finally reached their goal: Raised prices for the last affordable niche line.

Parfums de Nicolaï - Eau sOleil

Picture: Eau sOleil
Photo: PR Parfums de Nicolaï (c)

Eau sOleil is the latest addition to the successful Parfums de Nicolaï Eau Fraiche-line in which one light and casual fragrance is released each summer. Eau sOleil, created by Patricia de Nicolaï as always, is featuring neroli.

Eau sOleil opens with a mellow nerolinote, creamy, on the verge to powdery, in texture. The image it evokes is dark , just like the background of the picture above. The neroli is contrasted by a mix of fresh citrusnotes and fresh note of thyme and the bitter herbal note from wormwood. As the citrusnotes decline, Eau sOleil gets more flowery, with the orangeblossom still dominating. The creaminess is present during the whole dry down of the fragrance and it lends Eau sOleil a smooth and pleasant expression. The blend is anchored in patchouli and musk which gives Eau sOleil an excellent longevity for a fragrance categoreized as an Eau Fraiche. The musky base is also present in the rework of the classic Annick Goutal soliflore Néroli, Les Colognes Néroli, but cleaner in this lighter and more straightforward neroli interpretation.In the basenotes, Eau sOleil is almost retro in style and it reminds me of the beautiful La Dame aux Camélias from Jardins d'Ecrivains. The neroli interpretation also has resemblance with the Patricia de Nicolaï classic Cologne Sologne but that one is simpler in construction and more of an old school cologne IMO.

Eau sOleil is not the bright, spakling, fizzy soliflore "Eau de Neroli", Eau sOleil is a deeper and a bit more complicated fragrance with its contrasting herbal and creamy notes. To me it's a orange/herbal dominated standard Edt not a lighter/brighter Eau Fraiche and I think one should take that into consideration when judging Eau sOleil. I have read some reviews which are slightly dissapointed on Eau sOleil, among other complaining about the restrained neroli in the dry down. Probably the reviewers expect a sparkling colognestyled fragrance and therefore doesn't judge Eau sOleil on its own merits. To me, Eau sOleil is the best and most intriguing fragrance in the Patricia de Nicolaï Eau Fraiche-line so far.

As almost always with Patricias creations, a well blended and casual chic fragrance. Very versatile and appropriate for daytime wearing year around. Longevity for 12 h+ with medium sillage. Those who likes Prada Infusion Fleur d'Oranger will probably also appreciate Eau sOleil.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Lemon, mandarin, bergamot, petitgrain, herbal thyme, wormwood, jasmine, ylang-ylang, neroli, patchouli, musk

Thanks to Parfums de Nicolaï for the sample to test

By Kilian - Playing With The Devil

Picture: Quite contrary to the Devil: Kilian Hennessy himself,
as handsome as this fragrance is beautiful :-)
Photo: PR By Kilian (c) 

Playing With The Devil is the fourth installation in the By Kilian sub-line In The Garden of Good and Evil. As almost all By Kilians, PWTD is created by Calice Becker, a true champion when it comes to handle flowers in a delicate way. The first three fragrances of this sub-line, even if good, was a bit too similar and I find it difficult to distinguish them from each other. Playing With The Devil on the other hand, stands out from the crowd and is just stunning.

Playing With The Devil starts with the most natural smelling orange, in this case, Blood Orange I have smelled so far. The beautiful orangenote is underscored by darker fruity notes as a perfectly matched balckcurrant note and  round, delicious notes of peach and litchi. The peach is the same peachnote as in Flower of Immortality  from this spring, but slightly darker and fuller. The notes are nor sharp or synthetic smelling at all..

As PWTD dries down, flowery notes mingles with the fruit and in this stage PWTD becomes slight sopay on my skin and oddly, a chalky note that I also recognize in Vanille Tonka by Parfums de Nicolaï appears for a while but in a smoother interpretation. The flowers are accompanied by very smooth rendered versions of hot spices; pimento and pepper. This is very skillful performed, there is no traces of the typical peppernote that is common in current perfumery. In the basenotes, the fruity impression is still present, but darker and with an almost tobacco leaves/liqueur twist. This is probably the effect of fruit blended with resins, sweet tonka and delicate woody/patchouli notes. The base is lasting for hours and the fragrance is still unfragmented after more than 12h and distinct traces are still there after 24h.

Playing With The Devil is both elegant and comforting. It's very well blended, using high quality ingredients. It has nothing to to with the usual fruity floral offerings. It's just gorgeous!

Those who like wellcrafted fruity interpretations as Missoni by Missoni, Jeunesse by Robert Piguet, Bonbay Bling by Neela Vermeire Creations and Manguier Metisse by Huitieme Art will certainly appreciate PWTD:

Rating: 5

Notes: Blood Orange, black currant, peaches, litchi, pimento, rose, jasmine, pepper, cedarwood, sandalwood, patchouli, tonka been, benzoin, vanilla

Fragrance(s) of the week (31-35) 2013 - Worth waiting for....

Picture: Just varnished vintage Grythyttan A2:s  *)
outside the archipelago house, July 2013
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Most of the summer is gone and so is also most of the vacation. But there is still warm and wonderful summer outside and mostly I'm wearing light and easy to wear fragrances.At the moment I'm not especially intrigued of new releases but there are some that triggers my interest from fragrances that will be launched this autumn and I hope I get the opportunity to test at least some of:

Parfums de Nicolaï: At least two oud fragrances aimed to the Middle East market. Oud and the technical skillful Patricia de Nicolaï can't go wrong.

Serge Lutens: As usual the Exclusive of the year from SL is worth waiting for. This years Iron maiden, La Vierge de Fer which is said to be a hard, ironlike lily with incense, seems promising.

Mona di Orio: As Monas perfums are among my most treasured, I'm of course intrigued by the Les Nombres d'Or La Violette Fumee even if I suspect it's leaning more to the masculine side.

Andy Tauer: Seems to experimenting with some exclusive roseextract from Afganisthan in order to release a rose centred perfume before Christmas. Roses from Andy is must haves, as most of the other fragrances also.

ByKilian: The fourth fragrance of In the Garden of Good & Evil collection Playing with the Devil will be launched during the autumn. I hope this one will be dark and dangerous in stye compared to the very wearable, well-behaved and well-crafted first three fragrances of the garden-line.

Robert Piguet: Always awaiting news from one of my all time favorite houses Robert Piguet. Insomnia, judged from the name this seems to be a truly  mysterious fragrance. I'm thankful for the extensive efforts of the Robert Piguet CEO Joe Garces to restore and further develope this fine perfumebrand. Here is an very interesting post from CaFleureBon describing this work.

Neela Vermiere Creations: The new Ashoka by Bertrand Duchaufour seems to be very good according to reports from the lucky ones that have the opportunity to test it. And Mohur Extrait will certainly be something that I like.

Update mid-August: Puredistance Black: A new Puredistance is annoncued for December and this is really something to looking forward to. I love this house, a dark follower to the terrific I, Antonia, M and Opardu is just great. Already planning for a review....

Which new releases are you looking forward to?

*) Grythyttan A2 is one of the most (if not the most) classical swedish garden furniture, the A2 chair and table was designed to the Stockholm exhibition 1930 and are still produced. The set on the picture is from the late 1940s/early 50s and have since then stood the test of the sometimes hard weather of the archipelago with just minor repairs and varnishing.

5 top green summer fragrances

Picture: Crowded on the waterway to Stockholm in July
Photo: Parfumista (c) 

As I wrote in a post recently, I'm perfumwise, in tune with the season this summer i.e I don't long for the darker and heavier fragrances of autumn/winter which is quite common for me. This summer is green in different interpretations to me and even if I don't have time to wear all the fragrances mentioned, there is always some new samples in waiting for test, I sniff them regulary and ensure that the rest of the family wears some of them.

Coton Egyptien (Phaedon): Finally, thanks to Mr Parfumista and the kids who used up my sample, I get this elegant, casual, galbanum light, freshly ironed, high quality crisp cottonfabric fragrance. There is no detergent vibes in this as in for example Serge Lutens L'Eau Serge which is a perfume in a similar style but with a chemical (in a positive way) apperance. The Phaedon line is re-packing in new bottles and it seems as Coton Egyptien is discontinued as it doesn't appear among the re-bottled fragrances. At present Fragrance & Art sells the Phaedons in the old bottles, among them Coton Egyptien, to a reduced price.

Vent Vert (Pierre Balmain): The soapy, slight salty, light musky notes combined with galbanum of the current version reminds me of the archipelago, more particulary the wood-fired sauna with the following bath in the cold seawater. My appreciation of the current version is growing, I like it as much as the older, sharper, more elegant version.

Cologne Friction (Parfums de Nicolaï): This gentle, crisp, grassy cologne is like sunwarmed grass added with a light accord of the non-cocnut classical austrian sunscreen Snikk. I think Cologne Friction is on my top summer fragrances list almost every year, it is so relaxing and versatile. Unfortunately it seems as it's discontinued when looking at the new Parfums de Nicolaï website.

Vetiver (Guerlain): Mr Parfumista wears both one of the later Edt versions and a vintage Edc. Both are great (even) for summer. The Edt version (with better longevity) is a bit soapy, with a lighter touch of vetiver, in the Edc the vetiver is more concentrated, smells almost as, but not as strong, the pure vetivernote in LesNez Turtle Vetiver.

Cristalle Eau Verte (Chanel): Another underappreciated Chanel IMO. This slight flowery, herbal, watery-green fragrance reminds me of a chilly and refreshing vermuthdrink loaded with icecubes a hot summerday. Perfect casual chic for work during the summer.

Fragrance(s) of the week (29) 2013 - Green &herbal

Here we are in the middle of the summer.Almost every year I have started long for the dark orientals of the autumn & winter by now but this year I'm more in tune whith the season and like to wear herbal and green perfumes such as:
 My SOTD Reverie au Jardin a bit neglected and forgotten Tauer.Green incense  lavandel herbal dry beauty, the always so wearable Cologne Friction from Parfums Nicolai, the salty, musky galbanum of Balmain Vent Vert (I appreciate the new version more and more) and the cotton clean galbanum of Coton Egyptien from Phaedon. Overall I like the unsweet and natural in style fragrances at the moment but theses preferences will probably change soon...

Oliver & Co - La Colonia

Picture: La Colonia by Oliver & Co
Photo: PR Oliver & Co

La Colonia from spanish nichehouse Oliver & Co founded by Oliver Valverde who also creates the parfumes, is not a cologne IMO even if it intermediates some elements of cologne freshness. Instead La Colonia performs as an Edt with good sillage and longevity, features that is rare when it comes to light fragrances these days.La Colonia is a part of the illustrated series where an illustration of Pablo Perez Sanmartin capturing the essence of each fragrance is included.

La Colonia starts with a acquatic-citirc accord and the opening is was I like the least with this fragrance, the initial stage feels too undescript "usual-light-perfum-y".Fortunately, this stage doesen't  last long at all, after a few minutes some fersh green, herbal slight spicy notes apperas with dill as the prodominant player to me. The dill in this creation is well blanced, dill I suspect can be too sharp and overwhelming but in La Colonia it's a good contrast to the flowers and soft woody notes. Another composition where dill is used in a pleasant way is Eau de Lalique. In the dry down of La Colonia there is also a fizzy green note playing in harmony with the crisp Lily of the Valley. I suspect this note is green pepper.

La Colonia is a fragrance with interesting twists but in the same time easy to wear, fresh without any detergentnotes and very officefriendly. Perfect for summer or anytime of the year when longing for warm summerdays.

Those who are fond of fragrances in the chilly, fresh, dark green style of Patricia de Nicolaï Week End à Deauville and Andy Tauer Carillon pour une Ange will probably appreciate La Colonia.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, ozone, dill, jasmine, green pepper, lily of the valley, sandal- and cedarwood

La Colonia and the other intriguing Oliver & Co fragrances is possible to order (free shipping around the world) from the Oliver & Co website. 

Parfums deNicolaï - L'Eau à la Folie

Picture: L'Eau à la Foile
Photo: PR Parfums de NIcolaï

It's almost an old truth that you can always count on Patricia de Nicolaï. Well made fragrances to affordable prices, I can't understand all complaints of the bottles, I think they are charming  with their a bit homemade look, as they are just bottled and labled in the lab and then taken out for an immediate sell in the shop. L'Eau à la Foile, the creation of last year in Patricias L'Eau line, (precursors L'Eau Mixté 2010 (citrus/wood), L'Eau Chic 2011 (geranium)), is no exception. It's a wellmade, somehow robust, realible green, slight fruity, floral, slight boozy, spicy, woody light fragrance with a with a surprising longevity, for a day at least even if close to the skin most of the time.

L'Eau à la Folie starts with refreshing, sparkling notes of lime, citrus, a light white ruhmnote and some spritzy floralnotes. The opening is just like a refreshing Mojito a hot summerday. Mojito is also mentioned among the topnotes. As L'Eau à la Folie dries down the flowery impression strenghtens and there is a light spicy fizz that runs through the whole drydown of L'Eau à la Folie, and is also apparent in the light, blond woody base.

Picture: Mojito
Photo: from Gigilicom  

L'Eau à la Folie is such a pleasure to wear, a real wristsniffer that feel natural in comparison with all the fresh chemical laundry stuff out there. The name is well chosen, the fragrance is happy and smiling, ready for some minor madness. L'Eau à la Folie suits perfect for summer daytime wear, both for work and casual. I also think it will suit also in the middle of the cold and dark winter, when longing for summer. From the L'Eau line, I like L'Eau à la Folie best so far.

Rating: 4

Notes: Mojito, citrus, ginger, flowers, jasmine, green notes, fruits, wood

Oriza L.Legrand - Déjà Le Printemps

Picture: The Return of Spring (Le Printemps)
Oil on canvas by William-Adolphe Bouguereau, 1886
Wikimedia commons

Déjà Le Printemps is the fourth fragrance in the great Oriza L.Legrand collection that I had the pleasure to try. Reviews of the others Rêve d'Ossian, Relique D'Amour and Oeillet Louis XV are published already published the latest months. The fragrances are created by Elisabeth Feydeau.

Déjà Le Printemps is just what the name indicates, a spring fragrance. A beautiful, lasting and unusual green fragrance. The marketing blurb is just on the spot:"A promenade in the wood awakening from a long winter sleep. Morning dew is glistening like a beads on a wild grasses which exude fresh flavor. The sun rises and its rays awaken wet flowers and fragrant leaves of fig trees swaying by wind. Tree buds swollen with young leaves, flower buds ready to bloom, and the earth, with its smell of turf and twisted roots, full of vitality. The first lilies of the valley reveal itself. It’s spring awakening. Spring has come."

Déjà Le Printemps starts with the green smell of the crisp, green, leaves of flower bulbs accompanied by fresh, light green grass. This green smell is almost always a bit sharp but in DLP the leaves are embedded in a note tha smells like a delightful, soft  suede. This suede accord I could recognize in a rougher and bolder presentation in for exmple Ava Luxe Film Noir.

As DLP dries down the suedenote recedes step by step and the green accords becomes  more spakling and radiant. There is also an almost tart crisp flowery note with a touch of orange which I can image as hints of  Lily of the Valley and orangeblosssom. There is alsosome alomst herbal green flower which could be the clover mentioned among the notes. Overall the flowery notes are playing in the background balancing the fresh leaves and grass. When DLP settles in the basenotes, the suede note slowly appears again, accompanied by deeper green notes as moss and vetiver.

Déjà Le Printemps is very uplifting and joyful to wear. It evokes the impression of sun even if grey outside. Therefore it's suitable not only for spring and summer, it's also comforting during the darker and colder months.

Those who like fragrances as Puredistance Antonia, Balmain Vent Vert and Ivoire, Chanel No 19 Edt, Parfums de Nicolaï  Week-End à Deauville (swe) and Van Cleef & Arpels First will certainly also like the gem (emerald) Déjà Le Printemps.

Rating: 5

Notes: Mint, orangeblossom, chamomile, fig leaves,clove, mown grass, lily of the valley, galbanum, musk, vetiver, cedar, moss

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of Déjà Le Printemps

Grossmith - Amelia

Picture: European peony, Paeonia lactiflora
Photo by Frances2000, Wikipedia Commons

Amelia, a part of the Grossmith Black Label Collection released in late 2012, is created in honour of the daughter of the founder of the house (originally established in 1835), Amelia. The fragrance is created by Trevor Nicholl.

Amelia starts with an accord reminding of an upscale version of Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely and Narciso Rodriguez For Her Edt. Amelia than proceed less musky and sweet than the two other mentioned, there are offsetting neroli, white flowery and green notes detectable which balances the fragrance in a delicate way. I also smell a small fraction of that special tart note which is present in many 2012 cretations, probably compliant with the coming regulations. I like this kind of dry tartness combined in one note, the tart note is more clearly presant in for example Chanel 1932. 
The star of the flowery accord is a fresh and dewy peony, a peony that manage to maintain this impression during the whole dry down and doesn't get sour and dull. The base is musky with a counterbalancing typical contemporary chypre accord containing patchouli and vetiver. In the latest stages of the development of the base, the notes seems similar to the baseaccod in Golden Chypre which was reviewed last week. As in all Black Label creation tested so far the notes are well balanced and seamlessy mixed.

Amelia is a perfect fragrance for spring. It is clean without any laudery- or ozonic notes. It fits into most environments and couldn't offend anyone, hence it's the perfect, feminine scent for work. To be a tribute to a woman of the 19th centurary, Amelia feels a bit too contemporary in style. Maybe it is also a bit too perfect, there are absolutely no dangers lurking in the background as in for example the NR For Her Edt mentioned above. Amelia wears close to the skin and the longevity is for a day. The quality is top-notch as with Grossmiths in general.

Those who like fragrances in the classical style of Annick Goutal Quel Amour and Parfums de Nicolaï Rose Pivoine will probably appreciate this modern, musky interpretation of the peony-theme.

Rating: 4

Notes: Neroli, osmanthus, rose, jasmine, peony, amber, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, cashmere musks

Thanks to Fragrances & Art for the sample to test.

Springfragrances 2013

Picture: Violets
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

The winter has been staying for an exceptional long time this year so the real inspiration of wearing springfragrances has not really appeared. Instead I have been much into fragrances which are suitable year around and  with a renewed appreciation of some of the great classics, particulary the Guerlains. Regardless of this, but of course also with some inspiration from it, here comes a list of fragrances inspiring me this spring:

Rose Splendide (Annick Goutal): The tough, rough and wild pink rose, just as a not trimmed rosebush. Rose Splendide smells as the flowers, leaves and steams are all crushed and extracted into the fragrance.

La Violette (Annick Goutal): This leafy,crispy green perfectly just a bit candided sweet violet is not of the lipsticky-powdery cosmetic styled type. This is the small violet struggeling in the old grass just before the new fresh and green appears.

Violette in Love (Parfums de Nicolaï): Also a non-cosmetic violet, this time supported by citrus, peppery and slight berry notes. In the same style as AG La Violette but different when it comes to the details. Pretty, feminine and chic.

Vie de Chateau (Parfums de Nicolaï): This citrus-topped, hay-ish, slight leathery chypre is the  quintessential of casual chic. Like a stroll on the fields a sunny, day in the late spring/early summer.

I think that Annick Goutal and Parfums de Nicolaï are my ulitmate houses when it comes to springfragrances. Both have several light, sparkling, natural fresh fragrances which are very suitable for spring. And when spring approaches, the craving of fragrances from these houses arises.

As I have been in some sort of Guerlain obsession the latest months there is of course some gems from this house in different facets of blue.

Apres l'Ondee (Guerlain): More iris than violet, some soft spices warms it up a bit but in hte same time there is a moisty cleanness as the smell of earth, grass and fragile springflowers just after a rain.

L'Heure Bleue (Guerlain): After decades of testing, I finally get this more complicated follower to Apres l'Ondee (or have become totally exhausted and have capitulated :-) and also have been almost addicted. I often long for wearing L'Heure Bleue.

Last but not least, the house with the always so wearable, casual chic classics, Hermès.

Amazone (Hermès): My all time favourite fresh flowery fragrance. I have so much appreciated the fresh leaves and bulb- and other crisp flowers of the wild but chic Amazone since we met for the first time twenty years ago. A signature of younger days.

Jour d'Hermès (Hermès): Hermès latest will probably be a floral classic. This green floral is, to my nose, a paler and more polite variation of the extroverted great narcissus, mossy, green Le Temps d'une Fête from (here is the fabulous Patricia again:) Parfums de Nicolaï.

Place des Lices - Fiordlatte

Picture: Summer Evening on the Souther Beach,
 oil on canvas by  Peder Severin Kröyer, 1893

Fiordlatte from Place de Lices starts a bit sharp with notes of green grass and some flowery notes. I bet I can smell a moderated galbanum, even if not mentioned in the notelist. When Fiordlatte settles a bit, a pleasant, soapy, glabanumlike, note appears. It’s similar to the “antique, bathroom, chalky” note that is also present, but more intense, in Vanille Tonka from Parfums de Nicolaï. This accord is fading, but not disappear completely, in a nice, a bit paper-dry in texture, white floral accord. Despite the “bathroom” vibe it’s not a watery floral of the kind that is en vouge by now for exemple Live in Love by Oscar de la Renta or Water Calligraphy from By Kilian. The white floral note feels more timeless and the dry white floral impression is more in the style of Un Amour de Patou by Jean Patou and Montale Crystal Flowers (even if rose centered) but subdued in comparasion.In the basenotes Fiordlatte becomes light musky and moistier. A slight sour note (in a positive way) which is present in many light rosefragrances becomes detectable and I think it’s the note of peony.

Fiordlatte is the perfect outdoor casualscent especially for spring and summer, preferably at sea as the dry white flowers will balance perfectly with the salty air by the seaside. Fiordlatte is also a nice casual or officescent when one has to be reminded of the lighter seasons of the year.

Rating: 3

Notes: Jasmine, cottonflower, peony, vanilla

Fragrance(s) of the week (1) 2013

Photo: Parfumista (c)

Almost every week there is a fragrance or fragrancestyle that I particulary crave. Maybe I wear the fragrance some day that particular week, just sniff it, tray it or just let the longing persist as I'm often totally off-season when it comes to what I crave and the season current. To examplify: The week before Christmas I suddenly started to long after the sparkling, grassy and green springlike Chanel No 19 Edt, this in the middle of the cold and darkest winter, with lot of snowing. The same phenomena, but in the opposite fragrancedirection, is happening in the middle of the summer, some years as early as around Midsummers Eve. Than in the warmth and brightness of the Nordic summer, I start longing for dark and deep fragrances as ambers, dark roses, ouds, patchouli. Another observation when it comes to my perfumecraving during the latest half year is an increasing need and appreciation for the classics as the classic Chanels, Guerlains, Rochas or Diors. When it comes tocontemporary perfumes, I prefer perfumes created in the classic style as the offerings of Puredistance, Parfums de Nicolï and Parfums MDCI or more complicated contemporary perfumes with many dimensions as the perfumes of Ramón Monegal, Amouage or Mona di Orio.

To conclude this philosophising: 1) Fragrancewise I'm often in the reverse season 2) Fragrancestylish the circle is completed, I'm back where it all started, with the classics or  classic styled, well-crafted fragrances.

For 2013 I will start to notice (and post) if there is a/some special weekly cravings. Here are my observations for the first week of January 2013:

- The longing for springfragrances has intensified. Today (chilly and grey outside) I'm wearing  the Guerlain iris/violet/mimosa/guerlinade classic Apres l'Ondee Edt and I'm constantly sniffing my wrists.

- The other perfume that influenced me this week and I really liked to wear at New Years Eve was a perfume that not belongs to any of the categories mentioned above: Miss Dior Le Parfum which IMHO is a well crafted, contemporary mainstream with some dept and body to it. Features that is becoming more and more rare these days,  both within mainstream and niche.

Ramón Monegal – White Musk

Picture: Gardenia jasminoides
Photo by Erin Silversmith (cc) Wikimedia Commons,
some rights reserved

If  Musc Intense by Parfums de Nicolaï that I reviewed earlier this week is a subtle, classical musk which evokes associations to the 18^th centruary and the powder-pastels of Madame de Pompadour, Barcelonean perfumer, Ramon Monegals White Musk is the opposite. It’s a true contemporary, high quality, imaginative, interpretation of a flowery white musk that certainly stands out even from the white musk niche-crowd. Just as with Musc Intense, the musk in White Musk is not the typical “mainstream white musk” if anyone can’t stand that interpretation of this interesting basenote.

White Musk starts with a intense cascade of gardenina blended with vanilla and the musk accompanying in a moist, creamy way, it’s like the gardenia is cracked and mixed together with cream and vanilla. The opening is an almost gourmand accord also somehow resembeling the smell and also the texture of coconut. This coconutty texture remains during the whole dry down of White Musk.In the middlenotes the gardenia note is becoming increasingly clearer, the sweetness from the vanilla is tuned down and a light, perfectly balanced, resiny peppery note is accompanying in the background, adding an interesting contrast to the creamy flower. The gardenia note is that of a perfectly fresh gardenia, a gardenia that just have entered the full blooming stage, it’s not the gardenia just started to wilting as in Serge Lutens Une Voix Noire. There are also some subdued, green, crispy notes that could be sensed, just like some of the leaves also are crushed down in the blend. Later on the gardenia gets more fragile, almost papery in texture, similar to the gardenia in the beautiful Gardenia by Isabey. All these notes are mingeling with a well balanced white musk that anchors and depening this sensual blend together with dry resinnotes, almost light blond woody in character. Later on in the further development of the basenotes, there is a sort of clear, a bit wet accord, that in smell and texture reminds me of the Helmt Lang cult-frag Cuiron.

White Musk, even if loud, requires lot of space and is not wellmannered as my top Monegal Impossible Iris, is definitly one of my favourites after testing almost all from the wellcrafted and beautiful Ramon Monegal line. I remember this was the one that immadiately caught my attention when I was “screening” all of the Mongeals samples by just sniffing them from the outside. As almost all Monegals, White Musk is a fragrance that involves the wearer during the dry down, there are many interesting twists and nuances to be find during the journey. White Musk almost also rivals my favoritemusk so far: Mona di Orio Les Nombres d’Or Musc but fortunately they are in quite different musk-genres: White Musk is a bold tropical musk when LNd’O Musc is a traditional, elegant, slight flowery, subdued musk.

White Musk is wearable the year around, I can image it will blooms perfectly a warm summer evening as it will warm up a grey and cold winterday. Not suitable for scentofobic offices, its more of a comfort, casual- or a great evening fragrance. White Musk is, like most of the RM:s, a concentrated fragrance and as it’s very intense, (a changes of name with Musc Intense would be appropriate :-) ) it has to be applied sparingly to avoid knockning the ambient. Sillage is huge (if not careful in application) and longevity extraordinary, 24h+.

I don’t find any “alikes” at the moment but I can image that those who likes Montale Intense Tiare and Les Nez Manoumalia will like this unusual, stunning creation.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, gardenia, olibanum, vetiver, vanilla, white musk

Parfums de Nicolaï – Musc Intense

Picture: Portrait of Madame de Pompdour (1721-1764)
Francois Boucher, 1756

Musc Intense is a sensual flowery, high quality white musk created by the great parfumer Patricia de Nicolaï for her own house, Parfumes de Nicolaï in 2012.

First of all I want to calm those readers down that don’t like the white musk performed in many of the reacent years mainstream offerings. Musc Intense is nothing of that characteristic almost wet slight chemichal note that could be too much in some offerings but that I like in many, if handled with care. Instead Musc Intense is all about a dry, powdery, luxary musk that integrating the flowers and other ingredients in a subtle manner.

Musc Intense starts with a pleasant, very dry almost gun powdery accord. It’s not the distinct wet gunpowder as in Lorenzo Villoresis Teint de Neige neither the less harsh but anyway close opening accord of the beautiful Temps d’Hiver by Antonio Visconti. But Musc Intense has similarities with both this fragrance openings but is lighter and smoother, just like an elegant loose powder on a powder puff. There is a lighter version of the typical gunpowderaccord of the two former ones,  which I think (just speculating I’m no chemist) consists of rose, carnation and maybe the musc or some other ingredient that could show powdery facetts. As Musc Intense reaches its heart, the powdery, subdued, flowery notes slightly reminds me of the beautiful powdery violet of Opardu by Puredistance. Some subdued liquery notes deepening the accord in a finetuned manner.At last, Musc Intense is anchored in a dry, powdery, not especially sweet musk and there is a deep but at the same time light, pink rosenote that emerges on my skin.

Musc Intense is a subtle and elegant fragrance, well blended of high quality ingredients as we are used to when it comes to creations of Patricia de Nicolaï. The only weakness is that it seems like my skin just eats Musc Intense and the scent therefore is faint to me, even if described as sensual and subtle it’s a bit too subtle to me. The longevity is for about a day and the sillage is very close.

To me Musc Intense is a scent as was it created exclusive for Madame de Pompadour.It’s the essence of the rococoera, delicate fabrics, pastels, powder and musk. Musk Intense is a fragrance for those who likes some of the fragrances mentioned above but also my own favorite musk Les Nombres d’Or Musc by Mona di Orio, also a slight flowery musk but more distinct and less powdery. Also Les Nombres d’Or Ambre by Mona di Orio has a similar drieness and some of the gunpowder of the opening.  If you like Les Nereides Musc Samarkand and Annick Goutal Musc Nomade you probably also will like Musc Intense.

Rating: 4

Notes: Liquer, different types of roses and white musks, carnation, violet, jasmine

Ramón Monegal - Cuirelle

 The Ramón Monegal testing is continuing....

Photo: Parfumista (c)

Cuirelle is an interesting and beautiful soft suede/leather fragrance from the Barcelonabased parfumer Ramón Monegal whose perfumehouse also bears his name.

As Cuirelle starts it’s a bit sweet and almost fruity with a rounding delicate suede accord. In the topnotes, Cuirelle reminds me of a smoother and less sweet and flowery In Leather Woman by Etienne Aigner (in swedish). As Ramón Monegal has created some fragrances for Etienne Aigner (don’t know if In Leather Woman in on of them) there is maybe a connection between the two fragrances. Another fragrance that comes to my mind in this stage is Ava Luxe Film Noir even if Film Noirs slight fruity suede note is tougher, rougher and more than a bit dirty.

When Cuirelle reaches the middlenotes it takes another direction than In Leather Woman. Where the latter highlighten fruity notes almost like applepie the former transforms to an almost chalky soapy accord, reminiscent to the accord in Vanille Tonka by Parfums de Nicolaï but less green and less distinctive. Later on a slight spicy, warm, honeyd  boozy note appears, similar to the interpretation in Mon Patchouly but without the cocoapowder feeling. In Cuirelle there are some light woody-patchouli notes that accompanying the delicate suedenote that depens as more the fragrance dries down. 

The basenotes is a beautiful accord of gentle and delicate, honeyed, clean leathery booziness with traces of cinnamon. The natural sweetness is just right balanced to create an aura of comfortable smothness. In this stage Cuirelle reminds me of a softer, warmer and sweeter relative to the discontinued contemporary cult leather Cuiron by Helmut Lang. In the base Cuirelle almost has transformed it’s suede to a smooth elegant leathernote, but just almost as the fragrances seems to be fleeting between soft sude and soft leather.

Just as most of the other Monegal perfumes I have tested, Cuirelle takes the wearer on an interesting journey during a day of wearing. Cuirelle is very well balanced, the notes mixes in each other in a very subtle way. It’s also like many of the other from the house of Ramón Monegal a thrilling blend where you can’t predict how the fragrance will end from just smelling the initial topnotes. That’s something that I really appreciate from a fragrance and one of all aspects that makes the perfumehobby so exiting.

Cuirelle is great to wear during the colder months, suitable both for daytime and eveningwear. The sillage is medium and the longevity is at least for 12h.

Rating: 5

Notes: Olibanum, patchouli, honey, cinnamon, vetiver, cedarwood, incense

Ramón Monegal - L'Eau de Rose

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Ramón Monegals rosewater is despite of it's airy, happy, uplifting character, not a traditional dab-on rosewater L'Eau de Rose seems to me as a bright and seemlessy blended Edt composed by high quality roseoils. The scent of the rose is the scent of the rosebuds of the flower, there is no harsh green notes of the steem or leaves crushed in the blend, just the smooth and creemy rosebuds. I image there is rose buds from different colors particulary pink but also yellow, orange and red, all of them in the lighter and brigther tonality of the respective color. Soon the rosiness becomes creamy, it smells almost as the nail cream my mother used when I was a child, and as she rememered from her childhood that her grandmother used. As the delicate blend reaches the basenotes it's grounded with a light touched patchouli that gives the blend a interesting darker dept as a background. There is also musk there but so well intergrated that I don't smell it as a separate, dominate note. In fact, I was surprised when wearing L'Eau de Rose that the, for light and bright rose fragrances, mandatory rose-musk combination is missing.

To me L'Eau de Rose is sort of a delicate, fintuned, summerversion of rose, patchouli combos such as Lady Vengeance by Juliette Has a Gun (review in swedish). Also bright and light pink rose fragrances as Rose Pivoine by Patricia de Nicolï and Bulgari Rose Essentielle comes to my mind even if L'Eau de Rose is less sweet and has it's darker twist compared to the two latter fragrances.

All in all: L'Eau de Rose is a straight forward light rosefragrance, easy and comfortable to wear, suitable both for casual and officewear. The longevity is great, a full day wearing in summer, the sillage is close. The darker patchuli twist makes L'Eau de Rose staying away from the dull and meek light rose fragrance territory. A good alternative when it comes to the light and bright rose fragrance category.

Rating: 4+
Rating: 5 (June 2013)
Update: L'Eau de Rose is unusual to be a pink rose and deserves to climb the last half step to reach the highest rating 5.

Notes:  Tea rose, taif rose, neroli, patchouli, musk

Parfums de Nicolaï - Cologne Friction

Photo: Parfumista (c)

Scroll down for an english version
Patrica de Nicolaïs Cologne Friction är en av husets fina cologner. Friction är mjukt gräsigt grön, krispigt bladdigt grön, den ligger någonstans mellan Sisleys riktigt gräsiga och tomatbladsliknande Eau de Campagne och Thierry Muglers gröna, solcremeslikande mysk Mugler Cologne. Cologne Friction är inte lika intensivt gräsig som Campagne och är inte fuktigt, myskig som Mugler Cologne utan som sagt ett välmodererat mellanting. Den är liksom torrt grön, utan att bli hö-ig, med en aningen av en lätt osöt tvålighet. Liksom de båda andra gröningerna är Cologne Friction unisex och till och med kinkiga herr Parfumista som aldrig skulle sätta på sig Mugler Cologne kan använda Friction i casualsammanhang någon gång då och då. För Cologne Friction är genuint casual, som gjord för en tur i skogen eller på sjön. Men den fungerar förstås också en dag när man vill ha något lätt och friskt på jobbet, exempelvis om man av en eller annan anledning känner sig ur form. Eftersom Cologne Friction är just en Cologne så är hållbarheten inte så bra men applicerar man en hyfsad dos finns ändå fragment kvar till kvällen.

Sammanfattningsvis en välgjord, balanserad och prisvärd cologne. Att rekommendera för den som inte är nöjd med reformuleringen av Eau de Campagne.

Patricia de Nicolai Cologne Friction is one of the fine wellcrafetd colognes of the house Parfums de Nicolaï. Friction is soft grassy green and crisp green leafy at the same time, it lies somewhere between Sisleys bold grassy and tomato leaf-like Eau de Campagne and Thierry Muglers green, suntan-like musk Mugler Cologne. Cologne Friction is not as intense as grassy Campagne and is not moist and musky as Mugler Cologne, instead it's a well modualted in between. It is dry and green, without being hay-like, with a light  slightly unsweet soapiness. Like the other two are greeniess, Cologne Friction unisex and even the fussy Mr. Parfumista who would never put on Mugler Cologne use Friction for casual once in a while. Beacause Cologne Friction is truly casual, perfect for a ride in the forest or a day at the sea. But of course it also works for the occasions when you want something light and fresh at work, for example, if for one reason or another, feeling out of shape. Of being a cologne the durability is quite good if applying a decent dose there is still clear, green, musky fragments left on skin in the evening.

In summary, Cologne Friction, as usually with the Nicolaï frags, is a well-made, balanced and affordable cologne. To recommend for those who are not satisfied with reformulation of Eau de Campagne.

Rating: 4

Noter: Gräs och annat grönt/ Grass and other greenery

Parfums de Nicolaï - L'Eau Chic

Picture: Pelargonium graveolens (Rose Geranium)

Photo: Laitche (cc), Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

Patricia de Nicolaïs L'Eau Chic starts with a brisk, green blast of geranium. The fragance is fresh but not in the characteristic contemporary laudery or detergent way. This is natural, green, sharp freshness with some minty notes followed by herbal and light spicy notes with a light woody background, blond wood as birch, aspen and linden. Even if Patricia de Nicolaï was inspiered by the scent of her parents geraniumsoaps I don't get a particulary soapy feeling of L'Eau Chic, there just some soapiness in the basenotes that somehow feels a little dry. 

To my nose L'Eau Chic is a woody take on one of my favorite Nicolaïs Week End 

à Deauville 2011. As an owner of that Week-End I'm not convinced that I need even a small bottle of L'Eau Chic as especially in the middlenotes, I feel many similarities between the two fragrances, Week End beeing a bit more flowery-green and with a mossy feeling, where L'Eau Chic is more woody-herbal-green.

Even if categorized as an Eau L'Eau Chic is sharp, distinct and longlasting, it lasts during a whole day. It's the perfect, chic, casual daytime perfume (especielly for spring and summer) that is very pleasent to wear and it feels very refreshing almost germicidal. Just as Week End à Deauville this is a fragrance that is very special and stands out from the crowd.

Rating: 4

Notes: Geranium, lavendel, mint, chamomille, clove, spice, sandalwood, musk

Phaedon – Coton Egyptien

Coton Egyptien from the Pierre Guillaume associated line Phaedon is (probably) also created by Pierre. CE is, like Verveine Figuier reviewed earlier this week, compared to the fragrances in the general Parfumerie Générale-line, a lighter and “easier to wear” fragrance.

Coton Egyptien starts with a somehow soft blast of galbanum, often galbanum is strong, sharp and dominating, but not in CE. Soon a papery, vanillic note appears and mingles with the green during the well balanced dry down. The base is slight dry woody, grounded in a white musk.

In style CE reminds me of some Patricia de Nicolaï creations, especially her geraniumdominated L’Eau Chic. Coton Egyptien is the galbanumversion of L’Eau Chic but also infused with some of the papery, chalky vanillic note from Vanille Tonka.

Coton Egyptien is a soothing scent for the summer and with it’s similarities to the Nicolaïs of course also a more elegant and refined alternative to the mainstream acqua-citrus-musky freshness. There is a clean but absolutely not laudery feeling of CE. Perfect for casual and the office. Longevity is not so good, CE demands a heavy application.

Rating: 3+

Update July 2013: This summer I've come to really appreciate this fine, wearable, casual chic fragrance which unfortunately seems to be discontinued in the rebottled Phaedon-line.

Rating 2013: 4+

Notes: Galbanum, iris, jasmine, lily of the valley, lily, orange blossom, musk, cedar.

Thanks to PG for providing the sample to test.