Fragrance(s) of the week (45) - Jaded but enchanted

Picture: Fall is almost already over.
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

The more fragrances I sniff and/or test, of course just a dimunitive part of the steadily increasing flood of new launches and new houses, the more jaded.Even if a good fragrance as such, there is not so often a fragrance really moves me, even if I can apprediate its composition and good ingredients etc. I see myself more and more longing for the classics (even if reformulated) both older and contemporary classics. Also old reaible houses which have been around for a while, don't overdo and mess the fragrances up, or is just too much in appearance, gets my appreciation. Such houses as Guerlain, Chanel, Hermès, Annick Goutal, Robert Piguet, Parfums de Nicolaï, Serge Lutens some Diors, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier. From newer, but today well established houses, Puredistance, Andy Tauer, Ramon Monegal and By Kilian seldom dissapoint.

To wear the classics, if gentle reformulated with the spirit of the fragrance perserved, is enchanted and never boring. Each fragrance has its own individual profile and it's not one in a dozen (at least) of the similar smelling crowd. When writing this I'm craving classic Guerlains; Shalimar, Liu and Mitsouko,classic Chanels as No 22, Cuir de Russie and the contemporary classic No 5 Eau Premiere and the also contemporary Hermès classic Eau de Merveilles. But honestly I seldom wear them as I'm too curious to resist sampling new frags :-).

Iris Nazarena & Iris Silver Mist - Short impressions

Picture: Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas
Photo: PR Aedes de Venustas (c)

Short impressions from two days in a row wearing of the 2013 Iris Nazarena from Aedes de Venustas created by Ralf Schwieger and the classic Iris Silver Mist from Serge Lutens created by Maurice Roucel in 1994.

My first impression of Iris Nazarena was "not original enough" for its price probably because I recognized other perfumes in each stage of IN. The carrot and earthy opening similar to ISM and Heeley Iris de Nuit but a more intense and longer lasting carrotaccord, the next more flowery part of IN that partly reminds me of Hermès Hiris with some spicy traces. The base with the typical current tart, putty but in the same time almost slight powdery musky accord with light traces of incense, an accord present in the bases of for example Les Exclusives Chanel 1932, Grossmith Amelia, Puredistance Opardu, Oriza L Legrand Oeillet Louis XV and Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin. But the sum of its parts puts this fragrance in a higher dimension, it is very pleasant and intriguing, I think the "recognizing other beautiful perfumes"effect during the drydown, contributes to this overall impression. This effect is also something I perceive in Kerosene Copper Skies even if this is a different fragrance. IN is concentrated and longlasting.

Picture: Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens
Photo: PR Serge Lutens (c)

When it comes to Iris Silver Mist the whole composition feels smoother, earthier, watery, like damp soil. The carrotopening is shorter and not as intense as in IN and the iris lends more to violet and leafy notes. The base is woody-musky. ISM is more harmonious, the different parts are seamless woven together, the composition is introvert, calming and meditative whereas IN is extrovert, louder with more radiance.

For lovers of  rooty irises, Iris Nazarena is well worth testing as well as the reference fragrance for this style Iris Silver Mist.

Frapin - Paradis Perdu

Photo: View of the World's Fair, Paris, France,
engraving 1889, Wikimedia Commons

Paradis Perdu the latest fragrance from the also in perfumery so successful venerable house of brandy, Frapin, is created by perfumer Amélie Bourgeois.Paradis Perdu is inspired of the temporary iron and glass palaces of the Paris World Fair 1889. The pavilions, showing their iron lacework foundations, celebrated the rise of industry and the "Art Nouveau". The Eiffel Tower was completed to the fair and its entrance arch. From this time the house of Frapin has an unique storehouse created by the master of ironconstructions, Gustave Eiffel.

Paradis Perdu opens with green, juicy notes, like long blades of grass swaying in the wind an early, warm and sunny autumnday. A distinguishable and natural grapefruitnote are present during the the first part of Paradis Perdu, a non-catpie sulfatic grapefruitnote, something that I have positivly experienced in some fragances lately. Maybe there has been some developement of the grapefruitformula lately as the grapefruit is much more pleasing today than some years ago. Later on Paradis Perdu highlights dry hayish notes, contrased with fuller notes of slightly fermented grapes, after all, Frapin is a cognacmanufactur. In this stage the overall impression of Paradis Perdu is similar to Jour d'Hermès. An almost fizzy galbanum and a bright vetiver are also evident. The best part of Paradis Perdu in my opinion is the contrasting, dark, smoky, tarry woody, mossy, resinbase with some traces of wine, a base that reminds me of a much less bomastic and smoother version of the base of Copper Skies by Kerosene. In the base, darker and lighter passages interactes, the lighter ones, dominated by a fresh vetiver. Reaching the basenotes, is like  experience the chilly and crisp autumnevening just when the sun has went down.

To me Paradis Perdu the first 2/3 are light considering it's a Frapin fragrance. The basenotes are deeper, fuller and more Frapin-styled. Paradis Perdu perfectly pictures an early autumn day, from the crisp sunny beginning, over the warmer, sunnier, fuller and sweeter middle of the day to the chilly and fast darkening evening. Two days after my full wearing day of Paradis Perdu I put on the same jacket as I worn the testingday and smelled something very familiar: Ivoire from Pierre Balmain. On fabric Paradis Perdu has transformed to a more homogeneous fragrance than I experienced it on skin.

Picture: Paradis Perdu
Photo: PR Frapin

Sillage is close and longevity 12h+. Perfect for autumn but will also be good for spring, especially the earlier stages of Paradis Perdu. Paradis Perdu catches (like some other perfumes* the latest year) parts from different parfumes/parfumstyles and could therefore please a wide range of perfumelikings.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, citron, mandarin, basil, spinach, vine, ravensara, galbanum, elemi, paradisamide, vetiver, hay, cedarwood, rosewood, labdanum, precious woods, moss, musk

*) Kerosene Copper Skies was the first fragrance obvious with this concept (to my nose), Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena is another one.

Annick Goutal - Les Colognes Néroli

Picture: Glass vial containing Neroli Essential Oil
Photo: Itineranttrader, Wikimedia Commons

Le Cologne Néroli is, just as the original Néroli Edt, created by the housenose of Annick Goutal, Isabelle Doyen in collaboration with Camille Goutal.

Le Cologne Néroli starts with fresh, pale green orangeblossom/neroli notes. The opening is sparkling and moist compared to the Edt-version, which I suspect is discontinued. The Edt starts with the orangeblossom/neroli but  supported by notes that gives it a herbal touch. After a while  notes smelling almost as fresh mushrooms appears in the Cologne, while the same passage in the Edt smells like a well kept stable with happy horses. The Cologne Néroli has the same typical, fresh luxurary linen colognenote as Le Cologne Eau d'Hadrien and lots of other better colognes. Just as the Hadrien Cologne, there is a fine, white musk base that intermediates a moisty impression. Overall the cologneversion is more flowery and sparkling, in the Edt version the orangy notes are combined with a herbal touch. Even if the Cologne Néroli is more similar to other nérolicolognes i prefer it slightly to the Edt.

Le Cologne Néroli has better longevity on me than the original Edt. I suspect that the white musk, just as in Le Cologne Eau d'Hadrien, is the facilitator of this. The Cologneversion lasts for more than a day with fragments left after 24h and the Edt lasts for almost a day.

Those who likes Hermès Eau de Cologne d'Orange Verte, Historiae Orangerie du Roy and the likes will probably appreciate Le Cologne Néroli.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Neroli, orangeblossom, petitgrain, heliotrophe, white musk

Historiae - Orangerie du Roy

Picture: Louis XIV of France (1638-1715)
oil on canvas 1701 by Hyacinthe Rigaud (1659-1743)

Orangerie du Roy is an excellent orangeblossom dominated fragrances composed by Bertrand Duchaufour for the house of Historiae. This house creates fragrances inspired of the spirit of different eras of the french history.

Orangerie du Roy is inspired of the "Sun King" Louis XIV which adored the freshness of the orangeblossom. The King started a new era parfumevise directed to fresh, flowery perfumes, preferably orangeblossoms, after being overdosed with musk for many years.

Orange du Roy starts with a natural smelling, clean, orangeblossom, without musky or laudery details. The flower is contrasted by light, green herbal notes, somehow smooth and on the verge of soapy but the fragrance doesn't enter the soapy territory, just touches it. The orangeblossom is classic-fresh and recalls the scent of freshly pressed linen sheets in cool and shady room during a warm summerday in a luxury Mediterrian hotel. Even if Orange du Roy is linear or maybe circular in its structure it is not dull at all, it evokes images not just from Mediterrian hotels, I can also see the old Sun King in his warm whig, strolling in the gardens of Versailles a warm summerday. Orangerie du Roy is well balanced and made of fine ingredients of an impression number for a eaux styled fragrance. It's also reasonable priced ca EUR 25 for 15 ml/ ca EUR 49 for 50 ml.

Picture: Orangerie du Roy Edt
Photo: PR Historiae (c)

Orangerie du Roy is a real wristsniffer, perfect both for work and casual, especially during spring and summer. The longevity is very good for a an eaux styled edt, it lasts for more than a day.

I think those who sheer orangeblossoms as Prada Infusion Fleur d'Oranger and Hermès Cologne Orange Verte will also like Orangerie du Roy.

Rating: 4

Notes: Lemon, sweet orange, petit grain, basil, mint, bergamot, orangeblossom, ylang-ylang, honeysuckle, lavendel, thyme, mock orange, patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, musk

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Springfragrances 2013

Picture: Violets
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

The winter has been staying for an exceptional long time this year so the real inspiration of wearing springfragrances has not really appeared. Instead I have been much into fragrances which are suitable year around and  with a renewed appreciation of some of the great classics, particulary the Guerlains. Regardless of this, but of course also with some inspiration from it, here comes a list of fragrances inspiring me this spring:

Rose Splendide (Annick Goutal): The tough, rough and wild pink rose, just as a not trimmed rosebush. Rose Splendide smells as the flowers, leaves and steams are all crushed and extracted into the fragrance.

La Violette (Annick Goutal): This leafy,crispy green perfectly just a bit candided sweet violet is not of the lipsticky-powdery cosmetic styled type. This is the small violet struggeling in the old grass just before the new fresh and green appears.

Violette in Love (Parfums de Nicolaï): Also a non-cosmetic violet, this time supported by citrus, peppery and slight berry notes. In the same style as AG La Violette but different when it comes to the details. Pretty, feminine and chic.

Vie de Chateau (Parfums de Nicolaï): This citrus-topped, hay-ish, slight leathery chypre is the  quintessential of casual chic. Like a stroll on the fields a sunny, day in the late spring/early summer.

I think that Annick Goutal and Parfums de Nicolaï are my ulitmate houses when it comes to springfragrances. Both have several light, sparkling, natural fresh fragrances which are very suitable for spring. And when spring approaches, the craving of fragrances from these houses arises.

As I have been in some sort of Guerlain obsession the latest months there is of course some gems from this house in different facets of blue.

Apres l'Ondee (Guerlain): More iris than violet, some soft spices warms it up a bit but in hte same time there is a moisty cleanness as the smell of earth, grass and fragile springflowers just after a rain.

L'Heure Bleue (Guerlain): After decades of testing, I finally get this more complicated follower to Apres l'Ondee (or have become totally exhausted and have capitulated :-) and also have been almost addicted. I often long for wearing L'Heure Bleue.

Last but not least, the house with the always so wearable, casual chic classics, Hermès.

Amazone (Hermès): My all time favourite fresh flowery fragrance. I have so much appreciated the fresh leaves and bulb- and other crisp flowers of the wild but chic Amazone since we met for the first time twenty years ago. A signature of younger days.

Jour d'Hermès (Hermès): Hermès latest will probably be a floral classic. This green floral is, to my nose, a paler and more polite variation of the extroverted great narcissus, mossy, green Le Temps d'une Fête from (here is the fabulous Patricia again:) Parfums de Nicolaï.

Fragrance(s) of the week (12) 2013

Picture: Hermès Elixir des Merveilles
Photo: PR Hermès (c) all rights reserved

Havn't anything perfume-wise to say this week except that my craving for orange and orangeblossom  in the sunny but very cold weather is evident. Robert Piguet Blossom and L'Artisan Seville à l'Aube are my choices. As is it very cold for the season I'm still remains in the oriental wardrobe with frags as Parfum d'Empires  Ambre Russe and Hermès  L'Ambre des Merveilles and Elixir des Merveilles, where the latter is the perfect  formula for the situation as it combines orange and oriental notes.

Mona di Orio - Eau Absolue

Picture: Eau Absolue by Mona di Orio
Photo: PR Parfums Mona di Orio, all rights reserved  (c)

Eau Absolue is a fragrance blended from one of the perfumeformulas which the great perfumer Mona di Orio left behind. As I have understand, many of the formulas were finished or almost finished even if we of course couldn't know if Mona would have done further improvements if she had to live.Eau Absolue, which is said to be finished already before last year realease Les Nombres d'Or Rose Etoile de Hollande is inspired of the Mediterrian landscape and I think that the composition has captured that olfactory image perfectly well.

Eau de Absolue starts with an intriguing accord that reminds me of the bombastic opening barnyard accord of Homme de Grès but dimmed to a tenth in strength. This accord in Eau Absolue is also rounded and finetuned compared to the though and rough notes in the opening of Homme de Grès. In Eau Absolue soon a note that creates a texture close to smooth suede appears, this texture is also present in Mona di Orio Lux despite these two fragrances smells different. This suedenote tempers the herbal/spicy, citrus notes of the fragrance and seems to create more body and dept than in a regular cologne. Eau Absolue is a Edp version of a colognestyled fragrance. When Eau Absolue calms down, the pleasant barnyardaccord gives way to a balanced green slight herbal, fresh spicy accord where the note of bayleaf is in the center. The bayleaf is crisp and the fresh leathernote that bayleaves sometimes induce is clearly present and creates a wellbalanced contrast. This stage is like citrus and greenery are wrapped in smooth leather. In the basenotes the green, citrus and bayleaf-leathery impression remains, warmed up and deepened by musk and labdanum. In the base I also smell similarities with Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Vétyver especially a certain pleasant tartness from that fragrance. The longer I wear Eau Absolue, the more of LNd'OV I smell.

Overall Eau Absolue is an elegant, casual fragrance which is also very appropriate for officewear. It's werable year around even if spring and summer comes first in mind. Longevity on my skin is about a day which is quite good when it comes to citrus/aromatic fragrances. Eau Absolue is less citrusy and more smooth, herbal green than most offerings in this genre. Despite this, this fine, wellcarfted, highquality fragrance somehow feels as I have smelled it before, probably because of the similarities to LNd'O Vétyver which I experience in the basenotes. This slightly affects the rating of the fragrance.

Those who likes Eau de Rochas, Eau de Sisley 3, Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien and Hermès Eau de Cologne Orange Verte will probably also appreciate Eau Absolue.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, clementine, petitgrain, citron, Litsea Cubeba, geranium, vetiver,
bay leaf, pink peppercorn, cedarwood, musk, cistus labdanum

Thanks to Parfums Mona di Orio for a sample to try.

Histoires de Parfums - Vici

Picture: Victory, Bronze quadriga on Wellington Arch, London, England

Photo: Kadellar (cc) Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved.

Vici is the third installment in the Julius Ceasar conquest inspired trio where houseperfumer  Gérald Ghislain examines different facetts of cardamom. The Veni, Vidi, Vici fragrances are a part of the Edition rare line.

As Vici is the scent of victory, my expectations were something powerful. Instead, Vici is a nice and comfortable fragrance with medium projection. The dominating note to me is incense, and here of course we have the connection to victory. In the Roman, as in many anciant cultures, and almost until today, incense is burned to celebrate victory. The incense in Vici is the dry, transparent and white (if I use a color to image the note) incense of one of my favourite incenses, Andy Tauers Incense Extreme. But in Vici the incense is tuned down some notches. The other note that is distinct to me is a iris very similar to the iris that  complements the tubereuse in the terrific Histoires de Parfums Tubereuse I Capricieuse. The cardamom? I can smell the note in the opening accord together with some flowery notes which together creates a herbal touch of the top. The iris and incense then stepping into the front with the incense getting more prodominant as longer the drydown proceeds to the balanced woody-musk base.

As Veni and Vidi, Vici is also a pleasant, wearable but not especially original fragrance, something that maybe could be expected from a Edition rare line. To me, the regular Hdp line is over all better and more original than the two Edtiton Rare lines. I almost get the feeling that the main work is done for the regular line and that some of what is developed during that process is recycled in the Edition rare line. But this is just a speculation.

Vici would be appreciated by those who likes incense fragrances but also some irises as the one mentioned above and also Hermés Kelly Caleche as KC has a flowery-green-vegetal texture that have similarities with the flowery aspects of Vici.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Angelica, cardamom, red fruit, basil, violet leaf, galbanum, aldehydes, iri, osmanthus, incense, celery seed, patchouli, musk, cedar, raspberry

Histoires de Parfums - Veni

Picture: Bust of Gaius Julius Caesar

 Photo by Andreas Wahra, Wikimedia commons

Veni is the first fragrance in the Histoires de Parfums "cardamom trio", fragrances that highlighting different aspects of cardamom. The fragrances are inspirated of the conquests of Julius Ceasar and his celebrated words "Veni, Vidi, Vici!" .Veni is composed by Gérald Ghislain, founder and perfumer of the house Histoires de Parfums and, together with Vidi and Vici, a part of the Editions Rare line of 2012. The theme of Editions Rare 2011 was (of course) oud.

Veni, "I have come" starts with a true smell of cardamom, followed by a light and sweet flowery impression supported by different spicy notes. The caradamom is present during the whole dry down of Veni and the unusual, slight flowery, dark, a bit moisty, spicy accord are resting on a bit peppery, contrasted with sweet and resin basenotes. Even in the basenotes the cardamom note feels as natural and the other spices acts like a wellblended warming background.

To be honest, Veni doesn't induce the picture of Julius Ceasar on expedition in faraway countries. My impression of Veni is drinking a nice cup of  chai tea and eating a soft cardamom cake a cold winterday.

Veni is suitable to wear at daytime, escpecially during the colder months. The sillage is close and the longevity about twelve hours.

Those who likes Phaedon Cendres de The and also Dzhari (even if cardamom here just is a supporting note), just as Hermès Un Jardin Apres la Mousson could, even if different cardamom interpretations, also appreciate Veni (and it's sisterfrags Vidi and Vici).

Rating: 3

Notes: Cardamom, cinnamon, galbanum, lavendel, tagete, saffron, guaiac wood, patchouli, vanilla, caramel, musk, amber, benzoin, oakmoss

Puredistance - M

Picture: The spirit of Puredistance M, 

Puredistance (c) all rights reserved

M is the masculine (or most masculine) fragrance in the excellent Puredistance line. It's a masculine oriental in the classical style, featuring soft leather notes. Even if classified as masculine, the elegant and smooth construction of the fragrance makes it suitable also for a brave woman, the same situation as with Aramis JHL. M is created by Roja Dove.

M starts with topnotes dominated by a natural leathernote, a leathernote like the scent of an elegant briefcase. After the leathery start, M transforms into a close wellbalanced spicyness with clear notes of carnation and clove. The leather takes a step behind but is still recognizable in the background. In this stage a very light and smooth note that reminds me of a soft, refined curry appears among the other spicy notes. On my skin anyway, this note is not clearly apparent on Mr Parfumista. In the basenotes, M get balsamic-resiny and more leathery again, a deeper and muskier leather than in the topnotes. To conclude it all: On my skin M is a harmonious mix of leather,carnation and spices.

Overall M gives me the association of resting in a wellworn armchair, nestled in a cashmereblanket, sipping an excellent cognac, in front of the fireplace at some old country estate.
M is most of all a masculine fragrance, but is so gentle and refined that it could also be worn comfortably by a women. In that sense M is unisex. M is a wellcrafted, comfortable fragrance made of quality ingredients and it suits both for formal worksituations and for festivite occasions. With its warmth M perfectly suits the colder months of the year, but I suspect it could also be fine for chillier summerevenings.

M is similar to Hermès great Bel Ami but to my and Mr Parfumistas noses, M is more leathery, darker, boozier and closer than the current version of  Bel Ami, but the style, and apperance is the same. M is even more close to the old Bel Ami-version in the "coctail-shaker-bottle" which is thicker, spicier and somehow boozier in texture. There are also similarities between M and the real leather classic Knize Ten and the contemporary but classic in style Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens. My nose also find some traces (the spicy cinnamon-warmth) of JHL (original formula).

M wears closer to the skin than Bel Ami but then M also is in perfumestrength whereas Bel Ami is in Edt concentration and therefore has a more extensive radiation. Longevity is about the same for both fragrances, they lasts for about 24h.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, jasmine, rose, carnation, vanilla, vetiver, patchouli, wood, labdanum, moss, cinnamon, clove, leather, musk

Ramón Monegal - Mon Cuir

Picture: La Debacle by Theodore Robinson (1892)
Wikimedia commons

Mon Cuir is one of two leather inspired creations in the spanish perfumeline who bears the name of it's founder the very long experienced (over thirty years) perfurmer Ramón Monegal.

Mon Cuir starts with one of the most realistic leather accords that I have experienced in perfume. It's far away from the rough and tough, smoky leather of for example Mona di Orio Cuir but it's also a bit away from the smooth, elegant leather of a a pair of long evening gloves as the light leather in such different frags as the contemporary Hermès Kelly Caleché or the classic Chanel Cuir de Russie. Instead the leather of Mon Cuir is somewhere in between, the opening gives the impression of a well-kept two coloured ( brown and mossy green) weekendbag in leather. Just as the leathery accord mellows into the middlenotes with the traditional orangeblossom accord, a glimpse of an almost minty note appears for a short while. This intermidiates a streak of something chilly in a otherwise warm and comforting fragrance and it reminds me a bit of Parfum d'Empires Cuir Ottoman. This is an example of one of those unexpected moments which are typical for the perfumes of Ramón Monegal. In the rest of the middlestage the flowery-leather accord becomes almost creamy and at the same time cocoapowdery.

Mon Cuir dries down in a tonka been powdery,slight musky, resin base with a light flowery impression still lingering. In the this stage Mon Cuir reminds me of a smoother and gentler version of one of the floral oriental icons of the 80s, the ingenious Joop Femme.

My impression of Mon Cuir is that of a soft and a bit sweet "feminine leather" (for someone who cares about division in gender when it comes to perfume) unobtrusive and "officeproper". Mon Cuir lingering close to the skin but giving away some inscrutable whiffs now and then. Mon Cuir is great for the autumn and winter months but also for chilly summerevenings. And of course for a relaxing weekend at the countryside, with the luggage carried in that perfect leather, weekend bag.

Rating: 4

Notes: Leather, orange blossom, labdanum, musk, sandalwood, patchouli, nutmeg

Balmain - Ivoire (new)

Picture: Place Vendome, a picture of  the spirit of Ivoire.

Photo by Dimitris Distigues  (CC) Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

The 1980 classic Ivoire de Balmain is re-launched 2012 (this week in Sweden) in a new and very successful interpretation/formulation created by Michel Alamirac and Jacques Flori.

The new interpretation of Ivorie starts much smoother and gentler than the older galbanum-tinged formula with elegant fruity-flowery notes. The pleasant fruitiness has an accompning role inr the middlenotes where elegant flowery interpretations of are mingeled with the traditional galbanum of old Ivoire in a considerably lighter dose. An interesting twist is the addition of some slight peppery notes. It sounds hazardly for such an elgant blend as Ivoire but the pepperiness is so skillfully handled, it's acting in the background as an uplifting note that gives sparkle to Ivoire and I don't percieve the spritzy-sharpness that are present in many peppery creations.  The soapiness of the old Ivoire is tuned down a bit in the earlier stages of the new, this is not strange at all as the galbanum isn't preseant in the early stage. As Ivoire continues to dry down the similarities, among them the lovely sopainess, with the older formula are even more obvious, despite the fact that the soapiness is of a smoother and gentler kind. It intermediates the feeling of wearing a soft, white cashmerejumper, the same feeling as I precieved with the wonderful lilyinterpreation Cartier Baiser Volé. In the elegant base which mediates a vintage sense of mossiness, the new Ivoire has much in common with the old version, to me it's like the more Ivoire dries down, the closer to the old Ivoire it appears. The expression of both the fragrances is the same and I can recognise the same structure and scent but the new Ivoire has a smoother, gentler and fruitier aura as the older is greener, sharper, rougher and more edgy.

The new Ivoire also preserves the same very french elegance as the older version. Ivoire still reminds me of an elegant french lady in a well-cutted, less-is-more, ivory silkdress, dining at a likewise elegant restaurant a bit cool summer evening at a place like Place Vendome. Ivoire creates the same feeling of elegance as Puredistances Antonia even if Antonia is edgier and closer to the original Ivoire whit its charactersitic note of galbanum. The casual-chic daytime alternative to Ivoire, a scent with resembling notes but interpreted in outdoor style is one of my all time favorites Hermès Amazone.

Both versions of Ivoire is definitly worth owning for the lovers of the old Ivoire, they are great complements to each other, where the newer "contemporary" version is a bit easier to wear and I also think it appeals to a wider group of perfumebuyers than the orignal. Besides the fragrances mentioned above I also think that people that enjoys Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens will like Ivoire, both the new and old version, fans of Chanel No 19 Poudre I think will appreciate the new Ivoire.

The longevity of Ivoire is very good, it lasts over a whole day to late in the evening.

Rating: 5

Notes: mandarin, violet, orange, jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, black pepper, galbanum, vanilla, vetiver, cedarwood, patchouli

Ramón Monegal - Kiss My Name

Picture: Rose Champagne Bubbles

Photo by Gaetan Lee (CC-BY-2.0; CC-BY-2.5.)

Wikimedia commons some rights reserved

A fizzy, peppery tubereuse-boquet is how I percieve Ramón Monegals tubereusefragrance Kiss My Name. The initial accord reminds med of the light, sight green, tubereuse boquet of Gianfranco Ferre (the fragrance has the same name as the designer himself). But very soon a blast of light, fizzy pepper appears and takes control over the blend. This stage is close to the developement of Lovely Day and just as with that fragrance, reminds me of Un Jardin apres la Mousson by Hermès. The glimpse of something that reminds me of an almost melony note is also present in Kiss My Name as in both of the former fragrances. I don't know from which ingredient the peppery note comes from, probably there is some woody note that is not mentioned among the ingredients that produces it. To me Kiss My Name, just as Gianfranco Ferre is first of all a sort of casual-chic dry, green white flower boquet where tubereuse has a leading but not predominant role. As Kiss My Name dries down the tubereusenote gets clearer. It's a clean and nice tuby-note that never reaches the dangerous dirty, fleshy, almost putty in texture, territory. In the late drydown, Kiss My Name is very close to the fizzy,airy, peppery Un Matin d'Orage by Annick Goutal.

Kiss My Name wears well during a warm summerday and I think it's proper for daytime wear year around. As it is strong in concentration, light application is recommended. A nice, happy and easy to wear fragrance, nothing complicated even if well crafted as the whole Ramón Monegal-line.

Rating: 4
Notes: Tuberose, iris, jasmine, neroli, tolu balsam

Ramón Monegal – Entre Naranjos

Picture: Citrus aurantium, (bitter orange "Orange de Seville")

Real Jardín Botánico de Madrid.

Photo: A.Barra (cc), Wikimedia Commons,

some rights reserved

Now it’s time to going on posting my impressions from my journey of discovery of the Ramón Monegal fragrances. Of course I should have introduced the house and the line by now but as my overall impression from what I have sniffed from the house is very positive, I can’t stop myself from testing and forward my impressions of the fragrances. But the hard facts will follow later J.

Entre Naranjos, between the oranges (trees?), is a name that matching this uplifting orange scent perfectly. The formula seems straight forward but for the sake not at all simple as the ingredients seems to be of a good quality and as in the RM fragrances tested so far, also well blended without any rough or sharp edges (except the neutronbomb Dry Wood). Entre Naranjos have similarities with the classic Hermès Eau de Cologne Orange Verte but as EDCOV is more about the orangeflowers EN is almost all about the oranges, the fresh fruits themselves, directly picked from the tree, peeled and eaten in it’s shadow. Despite the initial similarities, the fragrances then take different directions: Where EDCOV:s citrus accented orangeflowers rests on a cool, bright, mossy base, EN:s fruity orange goes darker and more oriental-woody in style, resting on a light peppery (cedar?), woody amber base. The patchouli is very well blended with the other ingredients and it’s not recognizable as a singular note, but it’s adding some chilly eartyness to the blend.  All in all: EN stirkes me as a sort of contemporary interpretaion of the orange-cologne theme of the Hermès classic.

EN to me seems to be a good year around cologne, during the colder season as a vitamin boost and a reminder of the sunny summer. It’s perfect for casual daytimewear and will not offend anybody in the office enviroment. EN is unisex in style even if some passages of it is leaning slight to the masculine side. The sillage is close, the longevity is relativly short, not the 24h + that I have experienced from some other RM fragrances. On the other hand as  EN is leaning towards the cologne style one can’t expect more.

To summon it all up: Entre Naranjos is a versatile, casual, orange-woody fragrance, not groundbreaking but a good choice for a basic contemporary alternative in the citrus section of the fragrance wardrobe.

Rating: 3

Notes: Orange blossom, bitter orange, petit grain, neroli, amber, patchouli

Neela Vermeire Creations - Bombay Bling

Picture: Different views from Mumbai (Bombay),

Photo: Permission CC-BY-SA-2.0, Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved.

Neela Vermeire Creations first three fragrances composed by the hyper-productive nose Bertrand Duchaufour, are three oriental olfactory gems compund by (as I perceive it and have read elsewhere) very fine ingredients. Bombay Bling is one of them and the one that I thought would be the less interesting of the three, the other are the spicy-woody Trayeé and the rosy Mohur. But sniffing from the bottles, I have bought the discoveryset of 3x10 ml which I really recommend, the one that caught my attention at first was Bombay Bling. Bombay Bling will capture the essence of the modern India.

Bombay Bling is the best fruity fragrance that I have experienced so far. There is not the artificial-chemical-sweet fruitiness, this is ripe, spicy, sturdy, "earthy/stone" fruits as melon (but not the calone-note) mango, litchi, embedded in subdued tropical flowers. Caradmom is present during the whole developement of the scent. The base there is a well balanced sandalwoody-vanilla underscored by gentle tobacco leaves. The whole composition is well blended, balanced and interesting during it's whole dry down. The first time I sampled Bombay Bling it almost vanished, as my skin was eaten the scent. But subsequent attempts proved that with a higher dose Bombay Bling is almost perfect.

Even if not very similar to Bombay Bling gives me associations to Missoni by Missoni, the dark sweet fruity notes,  the same with Casmir by Chopard but that one is more oriental ans sweeter. An airy, aquatic version of the theme is Hermès Un Jardin apres la Mousson where the cardamom and the melon are the common denominators. Calé Tepidarium also, even if citrusladen and sharper, have traces of the special Bombay Bling fruitiness but without the spiciness.

Bombay Bling is a extremly comfortable fruity-spicy oriental, wearable at most occasions, except for sport. I can image it will be just perfect to wear during a warm summer evening.

Rating: 5

Notes: Cardamom, caraway, labdanum, litchi, mango, black currant, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, ylang-ylang, frangipani, rose, patchouli, cedar- and sandal wood, other woody notes, tobacco, vanilla.

Puredistance - Antonia update January 2012

Picture: Antonia Minor (as Juno Ludovisi),

Museo Nazionale Romano, Rome 

Photo: user;shakko

When I first reviewd and tested Antonia last spring, I found it to sharp and smelling of luxury detergent see reviews in english and swedish. Relieved I wrote it off in company with the entire Puredistancecollection, M as a re-bottled Hermès Bel Ami and 1 as a luxury  Flora Bella by Lalique.

But this, to swedish conditions, warm and green winter I have longed for glowing, deep and intense florals. Suddenly my sample of Antonia was demanding for attention and I retested it, applicated a slightly larger dose than before. Wow, now I get it. It's so beautiful with its green notes of galbanum and flowers among them the ylang-ylang that adds a sofisticated sweetness. I wonder if the juice somehow has mellowed and has been blended during the storage because by now the smell of luxury detergent is not as apparent as in spring 2011. Antonia is also smoother than I percived it earlier. Maybe it also has to do with my own theory that the luxury detergent smell, that is present in several highend-/nicheperfumes, is the replacement of the typical soapy smell in the aldehydeperfumes of the late seventies- and early eighties such as First. To me Antonia is a contemporary successor to the elegant fragrances as First and it's peers, bright, glowing, with a flowing and well crafted texture. But is it also a successor of Pierre Balmains Vent Vert with it's intense, crispy, bitter, green note of galbanum. I can image that the original Vent Vert smelled something like this.

It's a pleasure to spend a day with the elegant but in the same time relaxed Antonia. But the day my sample vial runs out, will on the other hand, be tough to my poor wallet.

Rating: Antonia has made a rapid career, increasing it's rating from 3+ in April 2011 to 5 in January 2012.

Notes: Ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose, orris, geranium, ivy, vanilla, vetiver

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Al Oudh

Bild: Kummin, Carum carvi, Franz Eugen Köhler, Köhler's Medizinal-Pflanzen, Wikipedia

Al Oudh är en skapelse av L'Artisans husnäsa Bertrand Duchaufour. Den är inte vad jag klassificerar som en typisk oud-doft, utan en träigt lite äpplig och kryddig doft där kummin har huvudrollen.Ouden är så lätt att jag egentligen inte känner den, men den finns såklart där i den lätt lädriga tonen som framskymtar någonstans i bland hjärtnoterna.

Det är alltså kummin som har huvudrollen men det är en ganska snäll kummin, ungefär i paritet med kumminnoten i Gucci Eau de Parfum. I slutet av dagen, när bara mindre fragment finns kvar av doften så påminner Al Oudh faktiskt om Gucci EDP även om Guccin är sötare. Det är en likom lite kall och samtidigt lätt pudrig känsla som dofterna delar. En annan doft som Al Oudh påminner mycket om är Parfum d'Empires Aziyade, se tidigare review i oktober 2011. Al Oudh är en transparent doft som trots sina på pappret tunga ingredienser passar att bära om sommaren. Den är fint komponerad och noterna flyter in och ur varandra så fint att jag till slut tycker att Al Oudh nästan blir för konturlös. Trevlig och bärbar men inget jag känner behov av att införliva i doftgarderoben då min Eau d'Hermès har en klart mer distinkt kumminnot och är en mer spännade doft. Och för den som vill ha på gränsen till överdos av kummin finns ju exentriska Kingdom från Alexander McQueen.

Betyg: 4

Noter: Kardemumma, kummin, rosépeppar, dadlar, iris, neroli, saffran, rökelseträ, ros, oud, läder, sandel- och cederträ, patchoulli, tonkaböna, myrra, vanlij och civet.

Phaedon

Image: Bottles and candle from Phaedon (c)

Phaedon is a new line of perfumes where at least some of the scents are created by Pierre Guillaume. According to the buzz on Basenotes, Noir Marine and Dzhari are the two creations by Pierre. Those that are not created by him, is developed under his supervision. I have recived three samples of the Phaedon perfumes from the niche perfumeshop Fragrance & Art  . Here are my first impressions:

Noir Marine: This is a wearable, stripped, stright forward version of Harmatan Noir No 11 in the Perfume Generale line. Harmatan Noir is more complex but also harder to wear with a teanote that I perceive as metallic-bloody. Noir Marine is also dominated by the minty teanote in Harmatan Noir but it's a brighter and cleaner interpretaton. More aromatic-marine in it's tonality than Harmtan that is more woody- herbal. Personally I prefer the Noir Marine over Harmatan Noir. Notes of mint, tobacco and resins.

Dzhari: This is a beautiful blend with mint (again), sweet wine with some spice and dusty notes. The minty note is smoother compared to Noir Marine but connects the perfumes in the same theme. Dzhari really smells as I perceive ancient. It justifies the inspiration of the line from Sokrates and his disciple Phaedon. To my nose there are some similarities with Midnight Sun from Aqaba, a line inspired of the ancient times of the Queen of Sheba.

Cendres de The: A clean cardamom dominated scent with some sparkling peppernotes in the background. Reminds med the cardamom in Hermès Un Jardin Après la Mousson but Centres de Thè stays true to the cardamom during it´s whole drydown. I don’t feel the tea note but as spiced tea is one of the ingredients it’s probably so well blended that the note it self don’t stand out. Centres de Thè is the best cardamom scent that I have sniffed until now.

From the samples I have tried from the Phaedon Line, my overall impression is that it is a well crafted line in the spirit of Pierre Guillaume and with some characteristics from the PG line. But the Phaedons I have tried are in general more stripped versions, focusing on a few notes, and are easier to wear for a wider audience. To me the scents is smooth and relaxing and at least Noir Marine and Dzhari makes me think of the ancient times that the line gets some of it’s inspiration from. The Phaedons are comfortable and enchanting fragrances according to my nose.

Parfum d’Empires - Aziyade

Bild: La Grande Odalisque,

olja av Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres, 1814,

Louvre, Paris

Bland glömda, gamla,oprovade prover fann jag (som tur är) Parfum d'Empires Aziyade. Doften är inspirerad av Konstantinopel under sultanatets dagar och uppkallad efter haremsflickan Aziyade som en fransk officer förälskade sig i 1876. Doften Aziyade inleds med en rundad, lätt kumminnot som inte blir skarp eller frän vilket noten kan bli i en del blandningar. Därefter inträder en not som påminner mig mycket om ett grönt äpple, men inte den kemiskt, fräscha sorten som i DKNY Delicious utan en mer finstämd variant. Samtidigt ger sig en sorts kylighet som känns matt och sval i strukturen till känna. Det är inte en bitande kylighet utan mer som en kylig vindpust en sensommarkväll. Efter ett tag känner jag en ton av kanel och lätt läder, kumminen finns också som ett diskret inslag. Doften fortsätter ända ner i basen att flyta in och ut i kummin, kanel, äpple och läder. Rökelseträ adderas också i basen, däremot är patchoullin inte särskilt tydlig för min näsa. Sammantaget en mjuk behaglig och subtil kryddighet i en originell doft som är mycket trivsam.

Aziyade liknar en hel del, framför allt i toppnoterna, L'Artisans Al Oudh. Först och främst kumminens lite kalla känsla men även den äppliga noten. Al Oudh är starkare, stickigare och mer maskulin i typen medan Aziyade är mjukare, krämigare, mer feminin och i mitt tycke en bättre balanserad komposition. Det finns också något som påminner om uttrycket i Traversee du Bosphore, framförallt de äppliga och liksom matta noterna som finns i båda dofterna. Eller också förleds jag bara av inspirationen från Konstantinopel. Av de båda föredrar jag föregångaren på temat, Aziyade. När det gäller kummindofter som Aziyade egentligen ska jämföras mot så har Eau d'Hermès mycket mer rå och ren kumminkryddighet och är något av en "kumminsolitär" med lite citrus. Alexander McQueens Kingdom är tätare, rosigare, starkare och tuffare. Aziyade är en i många sammanhang mer bärbar doft än de båda.

Betyg: 4

Noter: Apelsin, mandel, granatäpple, plommon, kardemumma, kummin, kanel, ingefära, patchoulli, mysk, labdanum, rökelseträ, vanilj.