Easter fragrances 2016

Picture: Imperial Coronation Egg (Fabergé),
photographed at an exhibition in Rome
Photo: Miguel Hermoso Cuesta (cc)
Wikimedia Commons some rights reserved

This year I'll skip to find something to the usual Easter fragrance categories (gourmand-sweet, churchy-incense, green-crispy- leafy-bulbflowery) from which I pick fragrances suitable for Easter. Instead I'll pay attention to some fragrances which pleases me extra right now.

Heliotrope Blanc (Oriza L.Legrand): Ok this one suits perfectly in my traditional gourmand sweet category. Fluffy, alamonds, powder and vanilla, this is cosiness and comfort at it's best. The smell recalls  the sweetest of Easterbunnis.

Black Opium Edp (Yves Saint Laurent): I know I'm taken the risk to be written of as a serious perfumista by admitting that I feel very comfortable in Black Opium and I think it smells quite good. And so does also Mr Parfumista "This one smells better on you than many of the niche fregrances you're testing". Another one in the sweet territory.

Rosarium (Angela Ciampagna): A calming and contemplating, smooth rose incense, like taking a break sitting down in a small italian medival rual chapel a warm summerday.

Shermine (Huiteme Art): This furry iris/lavender with its very special almost chalky citrus note attracts compliments from those around. Perfect for the early wintery Easter of this year.

Marions Nous (Oriza L.Legrand): Recently I've been in an Oriza circle, I just can't get enough of the fragrances from this house. Marions Nous is a successful intepreation of an 1920s aldehyde fragrance. Sparkling, almost refreshing and in the same time with animalic notes lurking from it's depts. A fragrance which becomes better with each wearing.

Allure Sensuelle Edp (Chanel): A incrediable comforting fragrance in the Coco Mademoiselle - Coco Noir style but more fruity and with less patchouli  Smoother and rounded compared to the former two, a forgotten gem in the Chanelline.

Ylang-Ylang Nosy Be Extrait (Perris Monte Carlo): Last but not least the beautiful, intense, glowing, sweet, flowery, vanillic interpretation of one of the most faithful flowery teammates of "parfums de femme" the ylang-ylang.

Happy Easter!

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Oeillet Sauvage (new version)

Picture: Dianthus caryophyllus
Photo by 撮影者：カールおじさん (cc)
Wikimedia.com, some rights reserved

L'Artisan Parfumeur Oeillet Sauvage created by Anne Flipo, was first released in year 2000, then discontinued, probably because of the though IFRA restrictions against the substances creating the scent of carnation. Now it's relaunched and the review is of the current version, I have not tested the vintage.

Oeillet Sauvage starts with a crisp, papery, carnation note. It's like the name implies, like wild, intensive red carnations, growing in a field surronded by fresh and dry hay where the smells mingles a windy summerday alternating sun with clouds in the sky. Oeillet Sauvage smells distinct of carantion, no dark or cloying clove seems to be unvolved. It's not as spicy as many traditional carnation, here the flower itself is highlighted even if other flowers and notes are supporting, they not overrides in any stage of the developement of the fragrance. A light powdery finish are persent but not as clear as in Oriza L.Legrand Oeillet Louis XV which ha similariteis in the interpretation of the flower but is much more of a mulitflower powder puff. Compared to the other Oriza L.Legrand carnation fragrance Royal Oeillet and also the great carnation of Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale the two latter are darker, balsamic and overall more complicated. Oeillet Sauvage is not as peppery and diluted as another carnation on the lighter end of the spectra, Etro Dianthus or not as old world smelling as Caron Bellodgia.

Picture: Oeillet Sauvage (current version)
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

Oeillet Sauvage is a cheerful, easy to wear carantion which is suitable for daytime wear year around, Royal Oeillet and Oeillet Bengale is autumn/winterfragrances or for chilly summer evenings. Sillage is medium and longevity for more than a day. Oeillet Sauvage is a well made, uncomplicated, contemporary carnation which is definitely worth trying for those appreciate carnation.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Pink pepper, rose, carnation, ylang-ylang, lily, wallflower, morning glory, resin, vanilla

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Noir Exquis

Picture: Terrace of the café on the Place du Forum in Arles
in the evening,ca 16 September 1888
Painting by Vincent van Gogh (1853-1890)
Wikimedia commons

Noir Exquis is a fragrance in the gourmand style created by Bertrand Duchaufour, as most of the latest fragrances of L'Artisan Parfumeur.

Noir Exquis starts with dark vanillic, nutty slight flowery and soft spicy notes enlighted by a green, fizzy spicyness. The first section of the accord described reminds me of a paler version of the almond-vanilla bomb Montale Amandes Orientales. The second spicy part with soft spices brightened by the fizzy, a bit sharp green, spicyness reminds me of two fragrances from Carner Barcelona, most of Rima XI, the soft spices and comfortaura and Palo Santo especially when it comes to the green, spicy notes. As Noir Exquis dries down the pleasant, comforting spiciness remian as also the green fizzy vibe as a balance. The vanilla is pleasant and not too sweet, it's a fizzy vanilla in the style of Annick Goutal Vanille Exquise, maybe the Noir Exquis name isn't a coincident. Noir Exquis is overall quite linear in style, even if it also becomes woodier in the basenotes with a warm sandalwoodnote of the australian type, a bit herbal, not as smooth as the indian. Heliotrope also adds a cozy, familliar, very pleasant flowery, sweetness in the second part of the fragrance.

Picture: Noir Exquis
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

Noir Exquis is a moderate sweet gourmand in the contemporary caféstyle as Rima XI mentioned above and also Frederic Malle Dries van Noten, Noir Exquis just seems to be some years delayed. Just as the other Dries van Noten and Rima XI it is somehow light in texture despite it's gourmand character, the gourmands of later years are not as heavy and dense as the gourmands of the 90s-00s. Noir Exquis is a unisex comfortfragrance, easy to wear and appropriate for autumn, winter and early spring. Sillage is medium and longevity for more than a day.

Rating: 4
Update January 2018: Rating 5 This is a really good gourmand fragrance, the more I'm wearing it, the more I'm appreciating it.

Notes: Chestnut, orange, orange blossom, coffee, maple sap, ebony, heliotrope, vanilla, tonka bean, sandalwood

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Perris Monte Carlo - Patchouli Nosy Be Extrait

Picture: Nosy Be
Photo: from Pinterest 

Patchouli Nosy Be is the most recent patchouli fragrance from Perris Monte Carlo. The Nosy Be part of the name is from the island suitiated on the north west of Madagascar, the island is famous for cultivating ylang-ylang, coffe and vanilla but the climate is suitiable also for other spices and flowers. The Nosy Be Patchouli is a successful experiment where the manager of the ylang-ylang plantation of the well known fragrance ingredients producer Robertet planted patchouli on the Nosy Be Island. Here the patchouli plants could be protected from the sharp sunlight by the foliage of other plants and this favorable cultivation combined with a careful harvesting process creates a high class multifacetted patchouli oil. The Nosy Be fragrances of Perris are as today, also an Edp version of Patchouli Nosy Be, which was released 2014 a year before the extrait, as also an Ylang Ylang Nosy Be in Edp and Extrait. These will be reviewed later on.

Patchouli Nosy Be starts with the herbal, leafy, almost fresh, patchouli which is present in most niche patchouli offerings from the latest years, an early example is Histories de Parfums Noir Patchouli but this one is sharper, rougher and more transaparent in its herbal leafiness. Also Franck Boclet Patchouli comes to my mind in the initial accords. After a while warm spices appears, predominantly pepper, blended with a note of cacao simlar to the combination in for example Ramon Monegal Mon Patchouly and Serge Lutens Borneo 1834 even if the latter is darker and denser. The pepper, which I also think is strengthend from the cedarwood in the base, is a bit too distinctive to my nose/taste for a short part of the dry down but is fortunately softened when a beautiful vanilla is sneeking in step by step in this contemporary woody-spicy blend with a patchouli addition. To me  Patchouli Nosy Be is not so much about patch as it is of spices, wood and vanilla, the patch is just one of the well bakanced, interplaying accords.The earlier Perris patchouli Essence de Patchouli, is much more of patchouli, more extreme and uncommon and personally I prefer this over Patchouli Nosy Be when I crave a real patchfrag. The best part of Patchouli Nosy Be is definitliy the comforting base where the spicy mixed patch is contrasted by a beautiful very natural smelling, slight flowery vanilla and discrete woody notes. The base note accords comes and goes like waves with a slight different highlighting of each of the main notes in different waves. It's a true delight wearing this perfume.

Picture: Patchouli Nosy Be Extrait
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Patchouli Nosy Be is a versatile warm fragrance, suitable for autumn, winter and early spring. It's unisex and could be worn both for work and casual. Sillage is medium and longevity good, more then a day, traces are left on skin after a nights sleep.

Rating: 5

Notes: Patchouli, pink pepper; cocoa, labdanum, vanilla, cedarwood, sandalwood

Perris Monte Carlo - Oud Imperial Edp & Extrait

Picture: Illustration from Persian version of
"One Thousand and One Nights" (1849-56)
Painter: Sani ol molk (1814-66)

Perris Monte Carlo Oud Imperial  is another, to my nose much more masculine take, on the oud theme than the earlier reviewed Bois d'Oud. As the other Perris fragrances,  Oud Imperial  is created by Luca Maffei. The first issue of Oud Imperial Edp was avaible in a golden bottle, after that there was some improvements in the raw materials and today Oud Imperial Edp is avaible in the black Perris bottle.

Starts cold, with a fresh woody character which reminds me of confier and has some similarities to accords in Robert Piguet Oud. Some wearings highlighets a note similar to petroleum which glimpses by, other wearings it's not that present. The same happens with a turphentine like note, similar to the one in Lorenzo Villoresi Piper Nigrum. When Oud Imperial dries further down it turns darker and warmer, with an oily texture and some light, smooth smoke. There is also something leathery to it. The oud becomes more present in this stage and it smells very autentic woody and it's lightly infused with a smooth almost nutty note which I think is present in sandalwood. Somehow Oud Imperial evokes the color of black, maybe the patchouli which is lightly present in the fragrance contributes to that. For most of it's dry down, Oud Imperial reminds me of a denser and darker interpretation of the excellent, dry Montale Original Aouds. Taken as a whole Imperial Oud is a dark and classy very masculine oud. It smells authentic, exotic woody and it's a quite complicated fragrance as it's highlighting different accords, notes and nuances in different wearings depending on dosage, season, weather etc.

The Oud Imperial Extrait is even more oily, darker and has more smoke to it. The leathery note is also more present. As an extrait it has not such radiance as the Edp, it'is a close skinscent, ticker and denser than the Edp. The versions complementing each other and to generalize the Edp is for daytime wearing and the Extrait for the evening.

Picture: Oud Imperial
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Oud Imperial is very strong and has to be applied sparingly. It's a fragrance suitable for autumn and winter but could also be worn in dark, humid summernights. Sillage is strong and longevity for more then 24h for the Edp. The extrait has a close sillage and a lonegvity for 12h+, not as long as the Edp. As said above, this is a very masculine fragrance and frankly I don't feel comfortable to wear it even if I appreciate it's quality and good smell. On the other hand, Bois d'Oud is definitly my cup of tea.

Rating: 5 (on Mr Parfumista who enjoys this very much, especially the Edp and the impression in this post is                 just as much or even more his observations)
              Ratings are the same for both  Edp and Extrait.

Notes: Jasmine, caraway, incense, patchouli, saffron, oud, sandalwood, blackwood, cedar, labdanum, vetiver

Oriza L.Legrand - Cuir de l'Aigle Russe

Picture: Cuir de l'Aigle Russe
Photo: PR Oriza L.Legrand

Following my Oriza theme last week on twitter, here comes my review of their latest one.
Cuir de l'Aigle Russe is the latest creation of the great house of vintagestyled perfumes - Oriza L.Legrand.
Cuir de l'Aigle Russe has a note list longer than the pedrigree of the Tsars, and that combined with leather and the fact there is finally a new Oriza, it's over a year since the latest realeases, sets the hopes high.

Cuir de l'Aigle Russe (CdlAR) starts with a beautiful with soft powdery flowery accord in the comforting vintage, Oriza-style. It is high in the octaves on the notescale and it smells almost angelic. Soon a equally beautiful "blond"leathernote arrives, it is like leather in a very fine pair of gloves, very clear in smell and texture, there are no soft suedenotes. After a while the leather and flowery elements step backwards and a beautiful (every new note/accord arriving presents it self as very beautiful in this blend) bergamot/laveder combo appears taken the lead for a while, then the leather take some steps forward again. Also the balsamic, woody and musky notes later on seems very well.behaved, smooth, no harsh edges and again - beautiful. Some powdery notes in the Oriza tradition is present in almost the whole dry down in a very unobtrusive manner. The clear leathernote is also present in a subtle but clearly detectable way. The notes are so well blended and the accords are swirling around in a behaved but in the same time, intriguing way.

CdlAR is a classical bergamot-leather-lavender fragrance interpreted in a subtle and transparent way, it never becomes dense, cloying or "old fashion" smelling. It's like a very successful contemporary version, but still vintage in style, of this classic genre. The fragrance is classy, discrete and oozes of confidence, a perfect fragrance for negoations and other situations when the wearer needs to an authoritarian and in the same time comfortable, supporting and not disturbing perfume.

CdlAR belongs to a traditional masculine perfume category but in this version, it's lending slightly more to the feminine side. It's wearable year around, for daytime both for work and non-sporting casual. Sillage is medium and longevity for a day.

Those who like polished light leathers with flowery additions as Chanel Cuir de Russe Edt, Cuir de Lancome and Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fetiche will certainly also like CdlAR.

Rating: 5

Notes: Coriander, lavender, wormwood, bergamot, juniper, styrax, geranium, rose, immortelle, cardamom, styrax, patchouli leaf, labdanum, incense, musk, tonka bean, sandalwood, amber, benzoin, vetiver

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Annick Goutal - Rose Pompon

Picture: Rose Pompon
Photo: PR Annick Goutal (c)

Rose Pompon is the latest fragrance from Annick Goutal, created by Camille Goutal and a new perfumer to me, Philippine Courtiére. According to Annick Goutal buzz the rose pompon woman exudes joie de vivre which is reflected in the perfume. 

Rose Pompon also starts happy and cheerful as a big smile with a note that is similar to smooth grapefruit, the pink/red variety. The grapefruit is not mentioned as a note but what is there is ver similar but has no metallic vibes nor the catpee note that sometimes appears in grapefruit combinations. The opening make me think of Yves Saint Laurent Baby Doll Paris.The mediumpink rose appears mixed with a clear and natural note of raspberry and the a fresh, watery tinge of peony. The light woody, musky base has a gentle touch of patchouli which creates a modern light chypre-ish vibe. It's not the typical, modern oversweet chypre, Rose Pompon has a more classic vibe to the chypre accord, even if contemporary styled, and reminds me of the basenoteaccord of EnJoy by Jean Patou without the pineapplenote. Also the elegant Ramon Monegal L'Eau de Rose comes to my mind even if that one is without the berrynotes and a bit more formal.

Picture: Rose Pompon
Photo: PR Annick Goutal (c)

Rose Pompon really is a feminine, chic and happy fragrance, uncomplicated and easy to wear. I think the PR movie with Camille Goutal is spot on. Mr Parfumistas spontaneus comment when I tested Rose Pompon was "smells like a better mainstream". Rose Pompon will be the perfect companion for spring, but unfortunately my sample will running out long before that. The only drawback with the fragarnce is the longevity, even if heavy applied, it doesn't last for a whole day. Compared to the other rose centered fragrances from Annick Goutal, Rose Pompon is the most uncomplicated and will probably attract a wider audience then the green, thorny, tangy Rose Splendide or the classical, rubbery, pure roseoil blend Rose Absolue.

Rating: 4

Notes: Raspberry, black currant, pink pepper; rose and pink peony, musk, cedar, patchouli