måndag 30 januari 2017

Jehanne Rigaud - Imperial Poudré

Picture: Bianca Castafiore
"Milanese Nigthingale" apperant in several albums
of  "Les aventures de Tintin" created by Hergé
(Georges Remi)
Picture borrowed from Comicvine
Jehanne Rigaud is perfumehouse based in Grasse. The inspiration comes from the treasure of vintage perfumes. The style of the house reminds me of Les Nereides, which also provides a range of robust, vintagestyled perfumes. There are also connections to the Oriza L.Legrand style even if find that house a bit less loud and maybe a bit more refined. Imperial Poudré is the first Jehanne Rigaud perfume I've tested.

Imperial Poudré starts with a blast of powder, it's dry and gunpowdery in style and applied with a gigant powderpuff with creamcolored fluff. The dry gunpowder smell reminds me of the dry gunpowder in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Ambre. After a while flowery elements balanced by a delicate, a bit earthy but flowery iris shows up, reminding me of Lorenzo Villoersi Teint de Neige, soon also sweet almond and warm heliotrophe appears. The more Imperial Poudré dries down, the more putty and moist in texture the powder emerges. A big retrostyled musky note supports and creates dept to the other notes during the whole dry down even if more present the longer Imperial Poudré has developed, it dominates in the latest stage. In the basenotes also an intriguing jasmine and rose combo appears which smells clearly vintage, it's a distinct animalic touch in the accord, probably the musk and jasmine contributes to that. In this stage I associate Imperial Poudré to Oriza L.Legrand Jardins d'Armride even if the special accord described is missed in the latter.
Picture: Imperial Poudré
Photo: PR Jehanne Rigaud (c)
Imperial Poudré is a "grand" fragrance, a perfume that makes a statement. It's an evening perfume, a perfume for a ball or the Opera, I can imagine an opera diva wearing this, Bianca Castafiore is the incarnation of Imperial Poudré. Of course one can wear it during daytime but than has to be very careful in application, a litte goes for long. It's a fragrance for the cold months, I suspect it could be cloying in the summer, except for a really cold early summer evening of the swedish type. Sillage is big and the longevity for over 24h. Its a very feminine perfume.

Imperial Poudré is an extreme fragrance of a type which almost isn't produced today. It's as Imperial Poudré originates from another century, a batch was forgotten in some warehouse and now showing up on the market. It's pushy on the verge to vulgar, not in the trashy but more in the nouveau riche way. Imperial Poudré definitly has its own personality and stands out from the crowd, which I really appreciate. Unfortunately Imperial Poudré dosen't mix well with my chemisty and therefore doesn't reach the highest score in my subjective rating.

Rating: 4

Notes: Ylang-ylang, iris, vanille, almond, powder, florals, musk, jasmine, rose, heliotrope

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

måndag 23 januari 2017

Jehanne Rigaud - Ambre Obscure

Picture: Captain Haddock,
from "Les Aventures de Tintin"
Author: Hergé (George Remi),
picture borrowed from pinterest
Ambre Obscure is a fragrance from the relatively unknown and a bit under cover perfume house Jehanne Rigaud from Grasse. As I understand it, the house had a range of fine fragrances during the 1920s-1930s and the following decades but then focused on to produce essences, ambiences, basic colognes and eaux as also producing for other perfumehouses. In one website I can recognize bottles with the same shape and labels as some editions from the house of Les Nereides. As mentioned in the earlier post about Imperial Poudré, I smell similarities in style between Les Nereides and Jehanne Rigaud. maybe this is not a coincidence. Jehanne Rigaud, just as Les Nereides, issues really priceworthy perfumes, compared both to mainstream and niche releases. The whole Jehanne Rigaud line is avaible here at top notch niche shop Fragrance & Art.

Ambre Obscur starts and proceeds very familiar to me: I can smell an old favorite, the early 1980s oriental Prelude from Balenciaga. It's almost the same vintage smelling amber, deep and multifacetted containing notes  similar to old sherry oakbarrels.It's like looking in a caledeoscope with changing patterns in brown and ruby red nuances. As Ambre Obscur dries further down, a fine jasmine blends delicately with the dark, deep amber and balsamic notes from the basenotes. Patchouli is also present as a supporting note, well balanced and it doesn't take over the composition, the patchouli just enhances the vintage feeling. Ambre Obscur is slight powdery in texture but not at all as powdery as the powder bomb from Jehanne Rigaud Imperial Poudré. In its later stage, Amber Obscur reminds me of the discontinued gem from Estée Lauder Youth Dew Amber Nude and there is also similarities with Aramis JHL at least the vintage version I have on hand.

To me who is a bit tired of all the light and airy contemporary ambers released in later years, Ambre Obscur is a very pleasant surprise, dark, deep and vintage in style. This is a fragrance for those who wants more body in their ambers and I think those who like fragrances as Rania J. Ambre Loup and Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Doré (with patchouli in Ambre Obscur instead of oud as in Ambre Loup and Ambre Doré), also will appreciate Ambre Obscur.
Picture: Ambre Obscur
Photo: PR Jehanne Rigaud (c)
Ambre Obscur is perfect for autumn, winter and early, chilly spring. It's also a good eveningfragrance and it's very comforting to wear for example by the fireplace a dark, snowy winterevening, Ambre Obscur is unisex even if leaning slight to the feminine side IMO. Despite that I couldn't resist to continue using a Tintin character, in this case Captain Haddock, to illustrate Ambre Obscur. I think he fits the bill as the fragrance has some dark, boozy elements..

Taken as a whole: Ambre Obscur is a very well blended, genuine, a bit wild and untamed, dark amber. Dark as its namn implies but it could, and not the new Annick Goutal amber, also be named Ambre Sauvage.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, orange, jasmine, amber, labdanum, vanilla, vetiver, patchouli, musk

måndag 16 januari 2017

Jehanne Rigaud - Patchouli Premier

Picture: Tintin
From the album "Tintin au Congo" (1931)
p.55, drawing Hergé (George Remi) (c)
borrowed from Tintin.com
Patchouli Premier from Grasse perfumehouse (and scent supplier) Jehanne Rigaud features, as the name indicates: Patchouli.

When applying Patchouli Premier my first thought is: This is Patchouli Antique from Les Nereides. It's the same rough, dark, dusty old book note as the latter. Now my speculations in earlier posts about a connection between Les Nereides and Jehanne Rigaud fragrances, maybe JR is the producer for both, seems even more possible. When Patchouli Premier (PP) reaches the middlenotes it departs partly form Patchouli Antique (PA). Whereas PA continues in its rough, dusty, slight fuggy, like an attic in an old house accords, interpreted in a positive way, PA smells really intriguing, PP enters another route as it becomes, lighter, brisker, sort of outdoorsy in style. It highlights the herbal and leafy aspects of how I imagine fresh patchouli could smell. When comparing to PA, I'm refering to the old version, I havn't tested the later versions in the new, different styled, bottles.
Picture: Les Nereides Patchouli Antique
old bottle at the top, a newer version below.
Photo: PR Les Nereides (c)

As the middle accord also the rest of PP smells. It's a good classic, basic patchouli of the herbal, not the ambery kind, which doesn't adds anything new to the genre. On the other hand it's a perfect companion when one need something simple, woody, outdoorsy refreshing, both for casual and for work. Patchoulis in this "fresh" style is relaxing to wear during the summer in particular sunny and windy warm days, but not in the worst heat wave. PP as slmost all patchs in this style is perfectly unisex. Silage of PP is close, longevity for at least a day.
Picture: Patchouli Premier
Photo: PR Jehanne Rigaud (c)
As the two earlier reviewed Jehanne Rigauds, Imperial Poudré and Ambre Obscur, Patchouli Premier also could be associated to a "Les aventures de Tintin" character, in this case the protagonist himself: Tintin. A lively, brisk patchuli like PP is perfect for the changeing existence of the character, one day among papers and prints in the newspaper desk, the other in the middle of the jungle.

Those who like simple and genuine patchuli fragrances as for example Etro Patchouly and Molinard Patchouli will probably also apperciate Patchouli Premier.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Patchouli, cedar, myrrh, myrtle, sandalwood, oakmoss, vanilla, musk

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

måndag 9 januari 2017

Deco London - Quick reviews 2(2)

Deco London is a fragrancehouse which debuted with six fragrances in 2015, three for women and three for men. Deco London pays homage to the golden age of perfumery and elegant, flamboyant 1920s London. Here some thoughts about the gentlemens trio:

ErnestAromatic everyday, classic fresh with a contrasting, slight oriental depth which adds a certain balsamic sweetness to the aromatic structure. Lavander, vetiver, different woods, leather, amberand vanilla. Reminds me a tad of a oriental interpretation of Caron Pour un Homme but without the metallic almost bloody accord which is present in the latter. Ernest is a versatile, daytime fragrance in a timeless style.

Picture: Deco London Lawrence
Photo: PR Deco London
Lawrence: Smells like a warm bubblebath, which reminds Mr Parfumista of the classic Badedas bathoil. There is also something dry and salty, which is distictive for the fragrance. There is also a light spicy, tangy lime, blended with white flowers, lavender, vetiver and some greenery. First I come to think of a cologne dominated by orangeflowers (for example Les Colognes Néroli from Annick Goutal), when inhaling I can smell nothing of the orangeflowernote, but the structure/texture is similar. A special fragrance with a vintage but in the same time timless aura. The most intriguing in the Deco London collection IMO and a Mr Parfumista favorite.

Quentin: This one is close to good ol' Givenchy Gentleman at least in the earlier stage. Starts with a dark green mossy patchouli, just like Gentleman. After a while the development of Quentin takes a different path. Where Gentleman focuses on the dark, moisty moss, backed-up with a dark herbal patchouli, Quentin goes to radiate just a herbal patchouli, first with hints of old books as a tame version of Les Néiréides Patchouli Antique and later transformed to a nice slight soapy texture. A nice moderated patchouli, a unisex fragrance IMO.

To summon up the Deco line, three-four of them are similar to, or in some cases (Loretta & Millicent), very close to already excisting designer fragrances. Loretta & Millicent to my nose are gentler, more finetuned but not as distinctive as their designer equals.

Deco London is avaible from Fragrance&Art.

måndag 2 januari 2017

Deco London - Quick reviews 1(2)

Deco London is a fragrancehouse which debuted with six fragrances in 2015, three for women and three for men. Deco London pays homage to the golden age of perfumery and elegant, flamboyant 1920s London. Here som thoughts about the feamle trio:

Constance: A sweet, balsamic, musky oriental with some flowery notes. Reminds me of candy; caramel toffee to be precise. In style it has similarities with Prada Candy but more dense, sweet and less distinctive than Candy. Prada Candy has the typical chilly, almost of refreshing Prada base (similar to the basenotes of Infusion d'Iris)which brightens that fragrance, Constanse is solid in texture and is more average in its sweet oriental style than the Prada. Anyway a good oriental, balancing to the gourmand territory.

Picture: Deco London Millicent
Photo: PR Deco London
Loretta: This Loeretta is far away from the dark, plummy tuberose of Andy Tauer. The Deco Loretta is bright, chocolate-boozy, like white, icy, booze in a wide cocktail glass. There is also a flowery element which I percieve as lily of the valley, both the flower and the greenery even if the notelist mentions orangeflower, osamnathus, rose and jasmine. To me Loretta smells like a lighter, brighter and more flowery version of the chocolate-boozy, icy Notorious from Ralph Lauren. Notorious is bold, dark and dense in texture compared to Loretta. If compared, Loretta is the spring and summerversion, whereas Notorious goes for autumn and winter.

Millicent: A superb white floral which is not surprising as Millicent smells almost identical to a real favorite orangeblossom of me, Elie Saab Le Parfum (Edp) at least in the top and basenotes. In the middle, Millicent is at tad more of a general "white floral bouquet" even if the orangeblossom dominates in this stage too. Millicent is less sweet/thick and more spritzy/mineral-like (like  Sauvignon blanc vs Chardonnay if related to the world of wine) than Elie Saab Le Parfum in its Edp version (havn't tested the Edt). In the basenotes of Millicent there is also a light pleasent dry a bit chalky note which smells like a sunwarmed, round, smooth stone a hot summerday. My favorite from the womens trio, very pleasant to wear.

Deco London is avaible by Fragrance & Art