torsdag 4 februari 2016

Annick Goutal - Les Absolus Ambre Sauvage

Picture: Painting of a family game of checkers
("jeu des dames"), ca 1803
Painting by Louis-Léopold Boilly (1761-1845)
Ambre Sauvage is featuring another staple in perfumery: Amber. Ambre Sauvage is created by Camille Goutal and perfumer Isabelle Doyen.

Ambre Sauvage starts with a soft and smooth amber note, the amber is nor herbal, nor dry gunpowdery, nor candy sweet, just light, refined like a mediumbrown colored silkveil fluttering in the wind. There are no sharp, rough edges of the resins in Ambre Sauvage, it's a balsamic interpretation mixed with the glazed vanilla of Vanille Charnelle. For a short while I can also feel a light, almost salty vibe. As Ambre Sauvage dries down an offsetting slight cold accord with a just detectable iris/lavender appears, balancing the warmth of the amber. A refined, dry and dark patchouli creates a beautiful dept to the perfume. Ambre Sauvage is very well balanced and blended in a way which makes it hard to distinguies the different ingredients, they are just swirling in a comforting, quality flow. Compared to the earlier Annick Goutal amber, Ambre Fetiche, Ambre Sauvage is quiet and soft, Ambre Fetiche is relatively loud and powerful compared to Ambre Sauvage and Ambre Fetiche contains a  considerable amount of incense.

Picture: Ambre Sauvage
Photo: PR Annick Goutal (c)
Ambre Sauvage is a calming fragrance, a fragrance which feels classic in style and apperance. When wearing it I can imagine ladies from the Empire wafting this type of fragrance when moving in their cashmere stoles. Ambre Sauvage is maybe not the right name to this gentle and refined amber as it is not wild at all, on the contrary it's very polished, soft and elegant.

Ambre Sauvage is an excellent comfort fragrance for autumn and winter. It's softspoken and could not offend anyone. Sillage is close and longevity for more than a day. Unisex but leaning to the feminine side.

Even if not smelling the same I think those who likes ambers as the more boozy Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe, the more woody-spicy Téo Cabanel Barkhane and the a tad sweeter Rania J. Ambre Loup will also appreciate Ambre Sauvage.

Rating: 4

Notes: Patchouli, amber; pink pepper, lavender, iris, vanilla 

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