måndag 28 december 2015

Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 - Short impressions

Stéphane Humbert Lucas the perfumer of many of the Nez a Nez and SoOud fragranes also has his own line named Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777. The "7:s" comes from his lucky number. The perfumes are oriental in style, high class ingredients are used and it seems that the market of the Middle East is the main target. Below my impressions from testing some samples of the earlier releases from the line.

Picture: Khôl de Bahreïn
Photo: PR Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 (c)
Khôhl de Bahreïn: Dominated by a dry, gunpowder note in the same style (but darker) as the same note in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Ambre. The cumminlike note in the top is dry, smooth and very well balanced against a very dark mystic violet. The dark, powdery violet theme reminds me of a drier version of Terry de Gunzburg  Ombre Mercure
Picture: Oumma
Photo: PR Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 (c)
Oumma: The smell of the finsest and softest  first class leather gloves, infused with very smooth and discrete roses and balsamic notes. The woody notes are almost creamy, even the oud is smooth, there are no sharp edges at all. Pure class and sophistication which has to be be experienced. But unfortunately, the perfection of Oumma is also reflected in the price: EUR 395 for 50 ml, sigh :-(

Picture: Rose de Petra
Photo: PR Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 (c)
Rose de Petra: A soft, high quality, dark, soft spicy rose. It somehow resembles Histoires de Parfums 1876 Mata Hari but in a darker, more oriental way. It's also more quiet in apperance and lacks the slight gourmand "cakenote" that is present in Mata Hari. Unfortunately RdP has too short longevity, it doesn't last as long as required form my high standards (and the price), ie for a day.
Picture: Black Gemstone
Photo: PR Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 (c)
Black Gemstone: Wearing this I come to think of MDCI Cuir Garamante drier and Puredistance Black which is sweeter and more feminine. Black Gemstone is one of the woody-boozy-leathery fragrances with a dark depth. A good fragrance but personally I prefer Black, Black Gemstone is more masculine.

Picture: Soleil de Jeddah
Photo: PR Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 (c)  
Soleil de Jeddah:  A strange fragrance, starts interesting with yellow flowers as mimosa and chamomille but when developed to the middle notes, a leathery, smoky, tarry, burned meat accord a la Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Cuir appears but not as skillfull handled as in Cuir. Until today, what I have sniffed from this accord/note it is successful interpreted just in MdO Cuir. In Soleil de Jeddah the unbalanced sweet flowers and the burned meat/leather simply is too much.

To sum up my impressions of the Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777-line so far: An interesting line well worth testing even if uneven in how they fits me. Some mixes very well with my skinchemistry and lasts for at least a day, other is just "meh" and too short longevity and the Jeddah is a small disaster on my skin.

2 kommentarer:

  1. I love reading articles of sweet & short reviews. I like the sound of Black Gemstone - sounds authentic badass

  2. I remember BG as a though one but I like the style. Unfortunately Oumma is my favorite of the frags above and also like the more reasonable priced Kohl de Barhein