måndag 9 februari 2015

Mona di Orio - Lux (old and new version)

Picture: Still-life with Lemons, Oranges and Rose,
Painting 1633 by Francisco de Zurbáran (1598-1664)
Wikimedia commons
Mona di Orio is one of my most favorite perfumers as I love, like and wear (or Mr Parfumista) all her fragrances except Check, check mate wich I have not smell, I think it was a special edition for a fashion designer Jan Taminiau. Lux is one of the first fragrances released from Mona, and it was withdrawn from the market for some years, now re-apperaring in the Signature Collection. In the review I'll compare the juice from my old original Lux bottle with the current from a  sample which I kindly received from Parfums Mona di Orio

Picture: Lux (old version)
Photo: PR Mona di Orio (c)
The old Lux starts lemony, round and fullbodied whith some almost candided sweetness. It has a slight candided sweetness and in its texture its like dark yellow/grey silk velvet, soft and subdued. It's not the bright shining lemon, it's more of a pickled lemon or unsweet on the verge to bitter marmalade. The new Lux starts less lemony, with slight sparkling, light peppery and Woody green notes which brigthen up the lemon a bit compared to the old version. Maybe the difference comes from my perfume has matured over the years but I don't think so as I remember that special lemony, subdued, vevlvet feeling from before. Maybe regulations has changed the concentation of the ingredients, in the topnotes my old brew feels thicker and the newer more transparent. As Lux dries down, the initial special lemony accord remains and the two Lux versions get closer to each other, the slight difference is that I smell more prominent contrasting, almost animalic notes in the old one. They are also present in the new one but I percieve the vetiver stronger in the new version. The vetiver is also more present in the current version when it comes to the balsamic, musky base of Lux. There is more contrasts in the basenotes of the new one thanks to the more prominent vetiver, the old one is more musky with traces of something almost dirty and the impression is slight retro. The basenoteaccord in the new one has better tenacity and longevity than the old version, it's like they are improved a bit. To summerize: I like the topnotes best in the old version, the basenotes best in the new and the middle section is equal liking.

Picture: Lux (new version)
Photo: PR Mona di Orio (c)
Both versions are intriguing and beautiful, the differences I discribe is of minor impact, taken as a whole it doesn't matter which version to own. Lux is a typical Mona di Orio fragrance, it's elegant, mysterious, understated and lingering like a second skin for a day. It's a fragrance that never becomes boring, it intrigues the wearer during the whole dry down. A timless fragrance which in style somehow resembles a nighttime version of Dior Diorella.


Notes: Petitgrain, litchi, lemon, sandalwood, vetiver, cedar, labdanum, benzoin, amber, musk, vanilla

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