torsdag 18 december 2014

Le Galion - Special for Gentlemen

Picture: Special for Gentlemen
Photo: PR Le Galion (c)
The venerable perfumehouse of the 1930s-1970s  Le Galion, was brought back to life again  in  2014. The golden days of Le Galion started in 1935 when the already then famous perfumer Paul Vacher bought the house and started to create a range of high class perfumes. Vacher is also the nose of iconic Miss Dior and Diorling for Christian Dior. Tomas Fontaine is the perfumer who has reworked the old Le Galions according to current standards. As I haven't tested any vintages, I can't comment on differences/similarities et but the new versions I've tested so far are great. Over to the object of today: Special for Gentlemen originally released 1947 and was created by Parul Vacher himself.

The fragrance starts in a traditional aromatic way with the most beautiful lemon, yellow, sunny and warm. The lemon is of course supported by aromatic, hebal notes, very fine tuned and smooth in their apperance. In this stage Special reminds me of fragrances as Givenchy Gentleman, Geoffrey  Beene Bowling Green  and Chanel Pour Monsieur. Quite contrary to most aromatic fragrances, there is absolutely no harsh or sharp edges as in Special, it's so well blended and seems to be constructed with very high quality ingredients. Among the herbal-spicy notes a smooth cinnamon is most evident and it's recognizable during the rest of the dry down. When the cinnamon appears I'm reminded of Parfums de Nicolaï  Patchouli Homme a very uncommon patchoulifragrance. After a while also balsamic notes appears, deepens the fragrance and wraps the wearer in a comfortable but still very elegant aura. There are also discrete woody-mossy  notes with a touch of something animalic which anchoring Special in the basenotes. Despite the heavy notes, Special is sort of light in texture  with a very clear presence which is never disturbing. In its later stages, Special reminds me of fragrances as Aramis Tuscany (mens version) and there is also something (but much smoother) from the legandary Guerlain Jicky present.

Special is pure elegance, for the versatile gentleman, a timeless fragrance of high class, both in construction, blending and quality of the ingredients. To me, Sean Connery in the character of 007 James Bond, personifies Special for Gentlemen. It could be worn in many (non-sporting) occasions and Special is demanding in another way: Wearing it always requires a proper outfit for the said occassion, as the whole image of the wearer has to be complete. Special is indeed a very masculine fragrance but the smoothness and balsamic structure oddly enough also make it (almost) wearable for a women.

Special is definitly a must try for those in search for a classical aromatic fragrance. Personally, after trying this, I can't remember me or Mr Parfumista have tried anything better among classical aromatics. Top notch and the best masculine fragrance tested since M.Micallef Royal Vintage spring 2013.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, citron, lavender, cinnamon, amber, labdanum, oakmoss, patchouli, vanilla, castoreum, birch, opoponax

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the (already drained :-( ) sample to try

3 kommentarer:

  1. Margareta, after reading your review and learning that both you and Mr. Parfumista hold this in highest esteem, now I'm curious: who drained the sample - you, him, or the both of you?

    This almost sounds like a cross between a fougere and a chypre. Your mention of some likeness to Chanel Pour Monsieur made me smile, because I used to buy that one for my grandfather, who was a farmer all his life, but when he retired, he liked to get dressed up, and he loved that scent. If he were still alive, I'd get him a sample of this to try. It sounds even better than Pour Monsieur.

    Hey, while I'm thinking of it, and if I don't stop over here before then, here's wishing you a Glad Yul!

  2. Dear Suzanne, Actually Mr Parfumista and my son drained the sample, havn't got a chance. As my son had his 12th birthday a few weeks ago we gifted him with a bottle of Special and now I can smell this lovely scent again and his the best smelling kid in school in an ambient with the smell of Lipsmackers and Victoria Secrets fragrances :-) I'm also 100% sure that your grandfather would have loved Special as my sons other fragrance is precisely Chanel pour Monsieur. It was chosen all by himself for his birthday last year and I think the fragrances complements each other, Pour M more fresh and crisp Special warmer and spicier. How nice that two so completely different generations has the same taste for this type of fragrance, that's real classics! Wishing you also a very God Jul !

    1. Aww, I loved hearing how good taste "runs in the family," as we say here ... and even more impressed that your son's other fragrance is Chanel pour Monsieur. It is indeed very nice that too opposite generations can appreciate that fragrance: the true sign that it's a classic!