måndag 12 maj 2014

Rania J - Ambre Loup

Picture: Gum rockrose, Capsule and seeds, (labdanum)
Photo: Roger Culos (cc) Wikipedia Commons,
some rights reserved
Ambre Loup is as the name indicates, the ambercentered fragrance in the  Rania J:s natural perfume line. Ambre Loup is composed by Rania Jouaneh, just as all the perfumes of the house. Rania, while growing up, was livning in the Orient as well as Africa, is now living in France. She is inspired olfactory by her multicultural background.

Ambre Loup starts with relatively dark animalic notes, this part reminds me of the opening of one of my most favorite amberfragrances L'Ombre Fauve by Parfumerie Générale. But where L'Ombre Fauve goes further in investigating some weird notes, Ambre Loup suddenly turns in a lighter, very pleasant, almost bubblegum, a tad smokey, rubbery ambery accord. This accord is IMHO close to what could be smelled in the lovely bubblegum-amber fragrance Jean Paul Gaultier 2, but it is less sweet interpreted in Ambre Loup.

Ambre Loup is a fitting name for the composition as the fragrances seems to loop around, after a while the deep animalic amber is appearing again, then the lighter amber. The longer Ambre Loup dries down, the more of both the animalic and the bubblegum amber notes are blended together to a quite dark, distinct ambery, slight musky harmony which is very comfortable and relaxing. In the basenotes Ambre Loup reminds me of another excellent amber from the latest years which also contains a wellbalanced amount of oud: Ambre Doré by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, also a real wristsniffer just as Ambre Loup. The oud in Ambre Loup is also similar to the note in Oud Assam (will be reviewed in a coming post) but more subdued. In texture and spirit, Ambre Loup also reminds me a bit of another favorite, Le Labo Labdanum 18. Ambre Loup has an excellent longevity, the basenotes are left unfragmented 24h after application. The sillage is quite close and it is definitly officefriendly, if properly applied it could not disturb anybody. Ambre Loup is perfect for the colder months but also for a rainy and cold summerevening.

Picture: Glass vial containing Cistus Essential Oil (labdanum)
Photo: Itineranttrader, Wikipedia Commons
In summary Ambre Loup is a perfect basic amber, straightforward without any oddities. It never gets too vanillic sweet as some ambers, nor too herbal as others. The animalic notes are tempered and lends a dark dept to the fragrance. Could be recommended to those who are searching for a staple amber.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Peru balsam, labdanum, vanilla, oud, guaiacwood, cedarwood, musk

2 kommentarer:

  1. Sounds interesting, I'll give it a try if I come across it somewhere.
    92 EUR for 50 ml... It's not scary but I wouldn't consider it free either.

  2. I've found them for EUR 85. Of course not cheap but as the same amount of a "better mainstream" costs about the same here (in Sweden) I think "the Ranias" are well worth the price. There is also a sampleset for EUR 8 on Ranias website.