måndag 21 april 2014

By Kilian - Sacred Wood

Picture: Santalum Album in Hyderabad
Photo: J.M Garg (cc) some rights reserved,
Wikimedia Commons
Sandalwood perfumes are a tricky fragrance cathegory for me. The iconic  Guerlain Samsara is too bold for me (even if my friend Fragrancefanatic have some anosmic problems with it), the heavy sandalwood + curry(?) Serge Lutens Santal de Mysore which is the only fragrance so far that has caused me an allergic reaction, Parfums Frederic Malle Dries van Noten is a bit too sweet and almondcookie like too remind me of the real wood. Etro Sandalo (old version) is good but maybe a bit too dense. And so one could go on... Until now, when I have found my ideal sandalwood (so far): By Kilian Sacred Wood from the Asian Tales Collection, as most Kilians created by Calice Becker. CB is well known for her excellent floral interpretations but apparently she is also a champion of woods. As a composition Sacred Wood is built around the olfactive impression of Mysore Sandalwood. This sandalwood is prohibited to use because of over-exploitation and a similar accord has been  reconstituted in Sacred Wood.

Sacred Wood starts with delicious sparkling, transparent sandalwood. The cocosaccent in the sandalwood is distinct in the operning and is almost flowery and reminicent of the cocoslike note in tubereuse. Soon there is also a tart, slight, fizzy but in the same time smooth and milky green note contrasting the sandalwood. The milky green note reminds me of fig, not a listed note but the effect is similar. The sandalwood, tart milky fig combination persists during the whole dry down of Sacred Wood but as longer the fragrance dries down the more prominent the sandalwood is. In the later basenotes, the impression is of solid, warm sandalwood.

Picture: Sacred Wood By Kilian
Photo: PR By Kilian (c) 
Sacred Wood somehow reminds me of a woody Annick Goutal Ninféo Mio and is just as this dark green.figgy  fragrance, a perfect companion for summer. Even if transparent in texture, Sacred Wood is a powerful fragrance that lasts for almost 24h and has a medium sillage. Its warmth makes it also nice to wear during the colder month. Sacred Wood is suitable both for work and festive occasions, an elegant,  sandalwood in a contemporary but in the same time timeless interpretation.

Rating: 5

Notes: Sandalwood oil, milk, wood, spices

4 kommentarer:

  1. I've not found many perfumes to love from this line, but there are a couple, and you make this one sound quite silky and good. I'll sample it when I get a chance.

  2. Do try it and report your impressions. I've growing to like By Kilian fragrances more and more over time. Well crafted, good smelling (not a lot of odditeis) in a contemporary style which in the same time is classical in structure.. Very wearable.

  3. Jag köpte lite otippat en herrdoft med sandelträ i helgen; Geo. F. Trumper Sandalwood. Nu så här i efterhand så känns den lite för "herrig" men jag gillar sandelträ och eftersom den inte var så dyr så ska jag ge den en chans.

  4. Bra att ge den flera chanser, i olika doseringar, väder och sinnesstämningar. Någon gång blir det säkert träff eftersom du gillade den när du köpte den.