torsdag 10 oktober 2013

Guerlain - Rose Barbare

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)
Rose Barbare is created 2005 by Francis Kurkdjian for the Guerlain L'Arte et la Matiere line. Rose Barbare were one of the first three released fragrances of the line, the other was Cuir Beluga and Angelique Noir all created by different for the occasion specially, by Guerlain invited perfumers. As an admirer of complex roseperfumes, Rose Barbare is the fragrance I most appreciate in the L'Arte et la Matiere line. Rose Barbare is a gourmand rose, just as all the fragrances of the L'Arte et la Matiere line is oriented towards the gourmand theme.

Rose Barbare opens with an accord of a creamy and intense pink rose accentuated with greenery. After a while the fragrance deepens in darker notes of patchouli and wood. In this stage with the dark and deep notes, Rose Barbare shows similarities with another Francis Kurkdjian composition, Lady Vengeance from Juliette Has A Gun. The creamy, honyed accord in Rose Barbare, remains and soften the composition during the whole dry down. The concept with the flower embedded in a smooth creamy texture is also used in Cruel Gardenia in the same perfumeline.  There is also an almost vintage touch of Rose Barbare, passages during the development that reminds me of a classy, vintage perfume.

Rose Barbare is an elegant perfume. Just as its siblings in the L'Arte et la Matiere line Rose Barbare is very comfortable, interesting and absolute beautiful. In the same time it's uncomplicated and easy to wear and I suspect that this is a bestseller. Combing those factors is a true work of art and creates a classic. Rose Barbare is a perfect companion for festive events but also to brighten up a gloomy day. Sillage is medium and longevity 24h+.

Rose Barbare would be appreciated by those who like rose scents in the range from  moderate to dark. For example Rose de Nuit and Sa Majeste la Rose by Serge Lutens, Une Rose by Parfums Edition Frederic Malle, Eau Suave by Parfume d'Empires and Roses Musk by Montale.

Rating: 5

Notes: Aldehydes, rose, honey, fenugreek, patchouli, wood

4 kommentarer:

  1. Margareta, you make this sound quite lovely. Would you say it's the gourmand creaminess of the composition that makes the rose smell pink to you?

    Btw, that photo is also lovely!! Mr. Parfumista is obviously good with a camera. :-)

    1. This is my true favorite in the Art/Matière-series. So simple in its presentation yet deeply complex in structure. I'd say the pink comes from the gourmand-y aspects for sure, but also the sheer joy of it. The first sparkling spritz of rose petals and citrus lemonade - weee! It always make me smile. Francis Kurkdjian is a true genious.

    2. You're right - this is a happy perfume even if grounded in dark patchouli.

  2. Thank's Suzanne, I've forwarded your compliments to Mr Parfumista, he is very interested in photography and was very happy :-)

    The "pink-factor" of RB: Probably the honeyed sweetness which accompanies the rose and the dark patchouli background makes it pink, don't know exactly. When I tested it for the first time my inner vision was pink and has stayed during further testings.