måndag 7 oktober 2013

Guerlain – Angelique Noir

Angelique Noir is one of the first fragrances of the Guerlain L’Art et la Matiere Collection. Angelique Noir is created by perfumer Daniela Andrier in 2005.

Angelique Noir starts with a sweet almost almondcake, counterbalanced by a dry fresh hay like note, like newly mown hay. In the background a deep, dark flower is lurking together with a contrasting, almost crispy, flowery note, similar to the note of freesia. The dark, flowery mix is very sweet but not cloying at all. Angelique Noir is very thick in texture, like a viscous, dark liquid or a black, heavy, velvet robe. Indeed, this could be a dark, fallen angel. The angelica note seems to be very concentrated compared with for example the transparent angelicanote in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d’Or Musc where it seems to be used more as a sweet, herbal-spicy, flower accent. A fine vanilla note is counterbalancing the dark, slight herbal-spicy flowery notes and the gourmand accord created seems almost edible.

Angelique Noir is a fragrance of it’s own, there are not many of it’s like. It’s a sweet but balanced with dry notes, floral gourmand oriental and as the skilful composes fragrances Angelique Noir is, it’s never being cloying in spite of it’s dark sweetness.

Angelique Noir is an elegant comfort scent, perfect for the cold and dark autumn and winter. Sillage is medium and longevity about 24h.

As I can remember, I haven’t tried any fragrance that is close to Angelique Noir so far. Even if not smelling the same fragrances in the same spirit as Angelique Noir are:  Dior Addict (old version), Tom Ford Black Orchid, and Guerlain Insolence Edp but also fragrances in the, form the former fragrances different style, as Parfumerie Générale Drama Nuui and The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit.

Rating: 5

Notes: Angelica, red berries, pear, caraway, jasmine, vanilla, cedar

6 kommentarer:

  1. "Angelique Noir starts with a sweet almost almondcake, counterbalanced by a dry fresh hay like note, like newly mown hay."

    Love that description, Margareta!

    Going on memory, that is similar to how I experienced it, too. I love a good hay note, and the balance of sweet with dry notes that you mention (and which Sigrun also alluded to in her review in which she compared it to a stale-like cake) truly is a good combo, to my nose.

  2. Suzanne, yes I also like haynotes one of the best I think is in Parfums de Nicolaï Vie de Chateau. In AN I appreciate the interaction between the sweetness and the dry hay. As a fragrance I think AN stands out the most in the L’Art et la Matiere line, really like it :-)

  3. Så spännande med något utöver det vanliga!
    Jag hoppas få chansen att testa denna.
    Finns det något av Etro Heliotrope i inledningen, typ mandellikör?
    Nyskördat hö låter underbart!
    /Eva S.

  4. Your take on Angelique Noir is very interesting! I haven't thought of it as "hay", but I have bought some dried angelica roots that I brewed into tea, and that is very hay like (and it has an interesting wormwood (malört) note as well that's both bitter and satisfying at the same time). I will try AN again and keep your review in mind :)

  5. Eva, värme och söthetsmässigt i stil med Heliothrope men tätare och mörkare i konsistensen (mörkt lila med dragning åt brunt trögflytande om jag ska likna det vid en vätska) och sin egna karaktäristiska örtiga angelikanot. Klart värd att prova.

  6. S, Yes, do that and I'll keep your "Päronsplitt-review" in mind when testing it again next Thursday :-)