torsdag 1 augusti 2013

Robert Piguet - Bois Bleu

Picture: Bois Bleu in its stylish, classical
Robert Piguet bottle 
Bois Bleu is created by the (almost) in house perfumer Aurlien Guichard for Robert Piguet and is the latest addition (spring 2013) to the Nouvelle Collection from 2012. Bois Bleu is classified as an unisex woody aromatic fragrance.

Bois Bleu starts with a intriguing blend of citrus and bergamot. The accord is somehow muted, it's note the sparkling, sunny a bit bitter uplifting accord which has evaporated when the topnotes are gone, but a sort of massive, much deeper accord which in texture and apperance, even if not so close in the citric smell, reminds me of the start of Mona di Orios Lux (swe) but more masculine. My first impression is that, just as with the aromatic NoteS of the Nouvelle Collection, Bois Bleu leans to the masculine side on the unisexscale.
But as always with Piguet fragrances, many things are going on and suddenly Bois Bleu becomes less aromatic and more spicy as a delicious note of nutmeg appears and take the centerstage still with the muted citric notes accompanying. The nutmeg is balancing a dry, non-sweet violet which is almost woody in character, Threre is nothing of the sweet, candy like violet or the more green violet with violetleaves which are the most common interpretations. The citric,violet,nutmeg trio is underscored with a wellbalanced woody base of vetiver, sandalwood and cedar where I think the warm and slight sweet character of sandalwood comes very well to its right. Bois Noir is subtle and engage the wearer during the whole dry down. The overall impression remains, despite the warmer, spicier part in the middle, that Bois Bleu is a more masculine in character but women searching for an aromatic fragrance should not hesitate to try it.

Trying Bois Bleu on Mr Parfumista the fragrance appears in a different way. The separate notes are much more distinct and the whole fragrance is brighter and somehow fresher. There is something in the mix and in the general impression of Bois Bleu there that on Mr Parfumista smells like a 2010s styled, refined and dimmed version of the wonderful Zino Davidoff from the 80s but without the distinct patchouli of the latter.
   
Just as its companions in the Nouvelle Collection, Bois Bleu is a fragrance of its own even if there is something familiar in the overall aura and some traces in common with two other Nouvelles: The nutmeg from Casbah and the sandalwood from Bois Noir. Bois Bleu is more discrete than the powerful Bois Noir, the sillage is medium but the longevity is very good, traces are still there after 24 h.

Rating: 5 (on Mr Parfumista) 4 (on me)

Notes: Bergamot, citruses, nutmeg, violet, sandalwood, cedarwood, vetiver

2 kommentarer:

  1. Dear Perfumista
    My goodness after decades of being dormant this house is suddenly so prolific!
    Citrus, nutmeg, cedar... sound fairly conventional, but from your post I get the impression that it's all about the handling so will be keen to sniff!
    Yours ever
    The Perfumed Dandy

    SvaraRadera
  2. Dear PD
    As a Fracas wearer and Piguet admirer for decades I truly appreciate the extensive effort from Joe Garces in order to re-establish the house of Robert Piguet. I think it's well thought out,first the restoring of most of the classics with respect to current conditions than complementing this heritage with contemporary but most of them timeless fragrances. I like more or less every Piguet creation as they mix well with my skin.It's a very wearable but in the same time intriguing fragrance line. When it comes to Bois Bleu it is a conventional high quality fragrance PH in style. It's more intriguing than for example Chanel Bleu, which is also a wearable officeperfume despite more common in style.

    SvaraRadera