måndag 27 augusti 2012

Chanel - Coco Noir

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

I really have tried to resist to like this frag as described as a disappointment in the perfumeblogosphere. There has to be a lot of weaknesses with it, something that better trained noses than mine understand
:-) . After a rapid skintesting from the tester in the store and from sniffing a scentstrip during a day, I have to confess: I really like Coco Noir and I even think it match the beautiful bottle and the story behind it quite well. I think it's a very wellcrafted floral musk with sweet fruity patchouli notes. When reading this one can be missleaded and think it's just another pink, berry/fruity, patch, but to my nose it isn't. First of all, even íf a fruity-patch-musk, it has the elegance and aura that is Chanel and that separates Coco Noir from hundereds of other in this genre. Second Coco Noir is not pink at all. It is dark, fruity, flowery, patchy which notes are contrasting the initial blast of light citrus bergamot. Third, there is tuned down traces of Coco Mademoiselle (in swedish) a fragrance that I unlike most perfumenerds like very much. Fourth the longevity is very good.

As stated above, Coco Noir starts light with the citrus/grape-bergamott infused accord. Then a moderate sweet, dark fruity-green-flowery, patchouli accord takes over and creates a distinct contrast to the topnotes. This stage is a bit dangerous because if too heavy applied, I suspect that it could be sickly sweet. After a whlie a rosy green geranium note appears and it adds a beautiful soapy quality to the blend, a soapiness that I feel very comfortable in. The soapiness creates an interesting retro vibe to Coco Noir. In the base there is a withe musk anchoring the blend, together with a soft and powdery tonka been and some light woody, slight resiny notes.

Strangely enough, I percieve Coco Noir as quite noir, other fruity-patchy blends are sweetly pink in comparison. When I first sniffed Coco Noir my first reaction was the similarity to the original muskfrag by Les Nereides, Musc de Java. The same sort of fruityness, almost berrylike, the patch and the musk are similar to each other but Musc de Java, even if more robust and rough, is thinner in it's texture and has an original hay-note that is not included in Coco Noir. Musc de Java is also brighter and lighter and is lighter on the soapy note. Coco Noir is a full and mature variation on the Musc de Java theme.

As with last year Chanel No 19 Poudré (in swedish) that also was not well received (at first anyway) in the perfumeblogosphere, I think one have to judge the flankers completely separate from the original fragrance and look at them as they where released under brand new names. Just as with Chanel No 19 Poudré compared to Chanel No 19, Coco Noir has little or no relation to the original, the beautiful oriental spicy Coco (despite the noir vibe), I think most of us perfumepundits starts to compare it with Coco and Coco Mademoiselle and therefore don't judge Coco Noir on it's own merits.

To me Coco Noir is a wearable and comfortable fragrance, definitly fbw and I just wonder for how long I will be able to resist...

Rating: 5
Rating update March 2013: 4  

Seems as CN wear better in warm and humid weather than in cold and dry. I perceive CN as less  integrated between it's different stages and that the sweet accord stands out a bit too much in the top- and middlenotes. Reaching its basenotes, CN is just as good as last late summer. 

Notes: Grapefruit, bergamot, rose, narcissus, geranium leaf, jasmine, tonka bean, sandalwood, vanilla, patchouli, white musk, frankincense

8 kommentarer:

  1. If you like it... nah, I won't say: "go for it", I'll say "wait until it comes in a nice gift set or a gift with purchase or whatever equivalent of extra goodies you have in your shopping system and then go for it. If there isn't anything like that - wait for a duty free trip. Coco Noir is here to stay so there isn't much sense in just buying it full price now ;)

    SvaraRadera
  2. No patience here :-) I had a 20% discount coupon + some "awardpoints" to redeem at a department store so I could'nt wait even if there will be a new coupon at least just before Christmas. And it seems that I have started a Coco Noir hype at the office too, my colleague next door(a true Chanel girl) liked this immadiately and is now provided with a sample from my bottle. Maybe it will be stereo Noir in our office this autumn :-)

    SvaraRadera
    Svar
    1. Are you kidding? 20% off is a much better discount than I could have imagined while recommending the strategy above. In the U.S. you can almost never get any discounts on such perfumes - unless you wait until discounters websites have it. Which usually happens in at least 6 months or later.

      Congratulations on your new bottle. Don't save it - keep using now, while you're still under the spell and enjoying it.

      Radera
    2. Thanks Undina, I'm really enjoying it, forced myself to take a break to compare with the Coco Mad today.
      The 20 % is on all beautyarticles including perfumes so it's quite good. On the other hand I think the pricelevel is higher here ca 150 USD per 50 ml before discount.

      Radera
    3. Wow... It's $98 (+tax depending on the state, 8.25% where I live).

      Radera
    4. I think we still have some old fashioned tax of so called luxary goods here in Sweden or maybe there is just lack of competion. As a basic rule with most mainstream fragrances) one can buy 100 ml from the US for less or the same price as 50 ml here.

      Radera
  3. det här syndromet gällde ju även Bleu de Chanel, som väl får betraktas lite som Coco Mademoiselles maskulina ekvivalent... det är lite tröttsamt att Myten Chanel är så enorm att det för de flesta är helt omöjligt att acceptera, och respektera, dem som ett kommersiellt storsäljande företag vilket som helst. även om kvaliteten, inom den genren, är outstanding.
    Noir är bra på samma sätt som Bleu IMO, men visst jag blev ändå besviken pga HOPPADES ju ändå att det verkligen skulle vara en riktig vräkig noirversion till original-coco. men men, flaskan är ju så snygg att den är värd ett köp bara den. skulle vara extremt fab om de gav ut den som kristallflakong för en Noir Extrait....

    SvaraRadera
  4. Klockren analys som vanligt PF! Och Noir Extriat i kristall, SLURP. Dags för Coco någondag, min pågående Chanelvecka har hittills mest gått i Noirs tecken och faktiskt är jag frestad att ha den i morgon igen. Inget normalt beteende när det gäller mig. Får uppgradera CN till en 5:a....

    SvaraRadera