Early autumn 2021

Last weekend a sunny early autumn day, Mr Parfumista and I was in the hunting ground to chase the gold of the forest; the delicate yellow chanterelle.

The first hours the catch was so-so...

.... but later it was much better. Even if just a avarage catch, the most important...

...is the relaxing and healing effect of spending a day walking around in the silence of the woods....

.....and smell all its natural scents, sunwarmd greenery and woods, the slight honeyd heather, damp earth, the fresh moss etc

And when it comes to scents, the not so natural ones, that fits a day trip like this, both me and Mr Parfumista chose two of the most (by us) proven ones for feeling comfort in forest environment: Mr Parfumista Caron Yatagan one of the woodiest (to my nose juniper wood with som e cedar wood) fragrances ever. Ca 2015 formula still very good and close to his earliar bottle ca 1998 which had some more dept, probably from real oakmoss. I was in one of my alltime favorites Hermès Amazone Edt with it's greenery and not sweet fruits and flowers, ca 2000 forumla (not the same bottle as the new one pictured above), wild and fresh, sporty, casual chic, one of my most versatile fragrances.
Photos 1-6: Parfumista (c)
Photos 7-9: From Fragrantica (c)

Best of 2020

In 2020 the year of Covid-19, the opportunities to sniff/try new releases, has been limited. Below the releases from 2020 which I've tested.

The winner

Picture: Puredistance Rubikona
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

Puredistance Rubikona - The more I wear Rubikona the more I love it. Starts chilly crisp and than gets warmer, wonderful creamy flowers, patchouli and moss. A real contemporary chypre, like a modernized version of a classic green chypre. This is the scent of power and self confidence, the role model for Rubikona must be Ursula von der Leyen, an Ursula in any age. When wearing Rubikona, I'm always come to think of the power woman  UvdL and her cool blonde apperance. 

Picture: Serge Lutens Fils de Joie
Photo: PR Serge Lutens (c)

The close contender

Serge Lutens Fils de Joie - Sweet, jasmine of different types drenched in honey, glowing like the sunset in the late summer, followed bt a dark but warm, mysterious starry night. This is the best Lutens for years and it reminds me of a scent from the past, have to wear Fils de Joie more to find out which.

Picture: Goutal Le Temps des Rêves
Photo: PR Goutal (c)

The no 3

Annick Goutal Le Temps des Rêves - Even if not as complex as the other two, LTdR is a well constructed, lovely contemplative soft white flower fragrance with notes of neroli and contrasting bran which is a new note to me in perfumes. Happy and comforting with a good stayingpower taking in consideration it's an EDT and a Goutal. Reminds me of the beautiful Hermès Hermessence Cedre Sambac.

The rest of the bunch

Picture: Dolce & Gabbana The Only One Intense
Photo: PR Dolce & Gabbana (c)

Dolce & Gabbana The Only One Intense - This is my secret obsession this autumn/winter.  Delicious, without too much sweetness. Fluffy, creamy coconut and neroli, contrasted by an applenote. Comforting and de-stressing. A hidden gem among the mainstreams.

Picture: Goutal Rose Pompon EDP
Photo: PR Goutal (c) 

Annick Goutal Rose Pompon EDP 2020 - A 2018 release in a new bottle 2020, maybe also the notes are tweaked somehow, dont know as I havn't tested the 2018 EDP. I was not so fond of the 2018 EDT which was a bit weak IMO. The EDP is thicker, the typical sweet (here not too sweet) raspberry rose which has been so popular the recent years. The raspberry rose done right.

Picture: Guerlain Patchouli Ardent
Photo: PR Guerlain(c) 

Guerlain Les Absolus de Orient Patchouli Ardent - I don't like the opening which is dry, a bit peppery, woody. Then suddenly PA changes and becomes deep green as a dark fig note appears and the woody notes goes from woody to green conifers. The patchouli is not present as detectable note, it plays a second role, blended with oud, contributing with a fresh but dark earthiness. Dark woody and figgy glimmering green, like wandering through a primeval forest. 

Picture: Hermès L'Ombre des Merveilles
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

Hermès L'Ombre des Merveilles - My favorite among the Merveilles. A darker version of  the salty L'Ombre des Merveilles Bleue. I find with some similarities with the light smoky, sundried woody black tea accord from Hermès Eau de Citron Noir an underestimated fragrance in the Hermès Cologneline.

The fragrances of Christmas Eve 2020

Picture: In the the wood 2020
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The Scent of Christmas Eve (sunny outside and ca -2 to -5 C the first winterday until yesterday there was autumn, grey, rainy and warm + 5- +10 C) of this strage year 2020 is the relaxed and elegant new Puredistance Rubikona. A suitable scent for autumn with it's fresh earthy and green accord surounded and contrasted by smooth and almost creamy flowers. A contemporary green chypre without the heavy animalic/mossy tinge which is often present in the classic chypres and may frighten many customers of today. No such heavy traces in the sparkling Rubikona, the perfect glowing gem. Mr Parfumista is wearing one of his favorites Tom Ford Tuscan Leather Intense a smoother and more elegant version of Tuscan Leather, with almost boozy notes of davana instead of the raspberrynote of the rougher original. The youngsters are wearing Frederic Malle Geranium pour Monsieur respectively Maison Francis Kurkdjian À la Rose.

Below the updated list of the fragrances I've worn for the last seventeen Christmas Eves: 

2019: Gold Puredistance (with a beautiful myrrhnote, a sort of smooth resin/sap and a cold (but not freezing) outdoor -in the wood - impression 

2018: Rubj Extrait by Vero Kern (warm, glowing orange in spices and elegant white flowers) 

2017: Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford (elegant retro but also contemporary austere flowery-green.)

2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody) 

2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals) 

2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote) 

2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy) 

2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+. 

2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals) 

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices) 

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices) 

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense) 

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental) 

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices) 

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note) 

2004: Cabochard, Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers) 

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse) 

I wish you a Great Fragrant Christmas, stay healthy and safe

Puredistance - Rubikona

Picture: Rubikona a mulitfacetted, glowing gem
Drawing: PR Puredistance (c)

Rubikona from the luxurious perfumehouse Puredistance: I've craved for this perfume since I got information about the release about a year ago. Why did it attract me far in advance? 

- The description promised a contemporary but retro chypre,
- From my favorite perfumehouse Puredistance, always reliable when it comes to quality and imaginative perfume concepts.
- Created by one of my favorite perfumers Cécile Zarokian.
- The teaser of the coming presentation in elegant ruby red, which now is realized from the flacons to the images and drawings of the Rubikona women.

In October 15 2020,  Rubikona finally will be launched and thanks to the founder of Puredistance Jan Ewoud Vos,  I've tested it. Does the perfume (extrait 28% perfumeoil) live up to my high expectations? Yes it really does, it exceeds them by far. This is the best constructed perfume I've tested for years, there are so many layers and also facetts within each layer of the perfume, a real mulitfacetted gem, the inspiration from the glowing ruby is spot on. Rubikona is now my No 1 favorite from Puredistance.

Picture: The chic Rubikona Extrait
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

The opening of Rubikona is très chic with an elegant blended citric dominated accord (which doesn't smell like citrus) of bergamot, mandarin and surprisingly grapefruit. There is absolutely no traces of the often almost acrid impression that grapefruitnote can provoke. When Rubikona first hit my skin,  I for a short while, can smell a note that reminds me  of  lilac slightly reinforced by aniseed and I come to think of another great perfume from  Puredistance - Opardu. 

The following overall warm, but still in some aspects almost chilly and refreshing dry down, is very wellblended. The indivdual notes doesn't stand out, they cooperate in well crafted accords to an experience far greater than Rubikonas different parts. In the heart there are mixed elegant creamy flowers reinforced by soft mossy and woody notes balancing the fragrance, creating an overall dry texture. In the basenotes there is a creaminess in the dryness and  something fleeting by that reminds me of a smooth and gentle edition of accords from Robert Piguet Bandit.  When it comes to the warmth of Rubikona, I can imagine and almost visualize, it coming from the intense glow of the gemstone and the contrasting chiliness I perceive reminds me that after all, the ruby as material is a cold mineral. When compared to Cécile Zarokians other great creation for Puredistance the oriental, warm as the sand in the desert,  Sheiduna, which to me is warm-warm in apperance, Rubikona is cold-warm.

Even if Rubikona is a contemporary chypre it not at all features the typical, a bit sweet patchouli musk base, which is quite pleasant but standard in the so called noveau chypres.  There is patchouli and musk in Rubikonas baseenotes for sure but so wellblended that it's almost impossible to pick up the indivdual notes. The texture of Rubikona is dry and transparent

Picture: The elegant sprit of Rubikona
Drawing: PR Puredistance (c)

in apperance, and manages to creat the impression of an elegant, retro flowery-green chypre in a contemporary form. I come to think of the great chypres from the late 70s and 80s but not dense, animalic, bold and intrusive as many of them. When comparing Rubikona to the other chypre of  the Puredistance line, the elegant  Warszawa , the latter represent another sub-group of chypres; the dark fruity one (think Guerlain Mitsouko, Rochas Femme, YSL Yvresse). Rubikona is from the brighter floral sometimes green sub group (think Esteé Lauder Knowing and  Private Collection (original), Trussardi Femme (80s original)).

When wearing Rubikona images pops up from memory, inducing and triggering scentmemories is one sign for a real intriguing perfume. In this case a ceratin light pink lipbalm in a black metal tube with white cap and screw mechanism which I (and also a friend who had exactly the same association when she smelled Rubikona) were wearing in school in the late 70s and early 80s. Can't remember the name of it and when thinking of this lip balm, I can still clearly visualize the place around the corner where I put this lip balm on before entering the schoolbuilding. When it comes to fragrances from the past, there are for example elements that reminds my friend of the fresh, green Private Collection, me of the green mossy YSL Y.  My friend was also reminded of the powerful Giorgio Beverly Hills (in a positive way she emphasized, don't be scared from this association, Rubikona is not smelling similar, they just somehow share the positive, warm, sunny and shining spirit). Also something from Montana Parfum de Peau stripped of the animalic notes, comes to my mind. The fragrance Rubikona reminds me most of (up to this day at least) is the warm and elegant  Hérmes 24 Faubourg.  
To summarize my overall impressions: Rubikona as a concept, reminds me of a contemporary, transparent, less bold  and not dense interpreation of the great  floral and floral-green chypres of the 70s-80s. 

Rubikona is elegant and chic, suitable for daytime wear and also for the evening, even if Warszawa (of the Puredistance chypres ) IMHO is more of the evening type of perfume. To me Rubikona is leaning more to the feminine side even if the refreshing, dry, mossy, woody elements also make it suitable for brave men. Sillage is medium and longevity about 12h.

Rubikona will be the perfect Christmas gift of 2020 to all lovers of real chypres. Even if no oakmoss is mentioned among the ingredients, this masterful blend itself, creates a light touch of it. From my point of view, this is a timeless perfume  that will stand the test of time, a future classic. 

Rating: 5+

Notes: Grapefruit, bergamot, mandarin, rose, iris, ylang-ylang, clove, orange blossom, creamy notes, patchouli, cedarwood, musk, vanilla, solar notes

Picture: Rubikona  avaible in three
different sizes: 17.5 ml, 60 and 100 ml
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

Thanks to Puredistance Jan Ewoud Vos & team for the opportunity to try this gem.

Midsummer 2020

Picture: Just unfolded red rose on the grand rosebush

Photo: Parfumista (c)

Midsummer 2020 is when it comes to the weather, the best in 10+ years,  +25 and warmer, sun and a light breeze, cooling off a bit. Maybe a short time for relief in these strange Covid-19 days, perfect for celebrating solstice outside.

My scent of the day is an obvious choice: Montale Highness Rose in parfumestrength, the fragrance I've worn on this day exactly ten years ago: The weddingday  of our lovely  crownpincess couple Victoria and Daniel, 19 June 2010. Here some nice new pictures of the couple, pictured at their home, the castle of Haga in Solna, just outside Stockholm.

Picture: A pink/red rose from a lower plant
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Highness Rose is also the perfect choice as the roses in our garden are just about to/just started to bloom. I've illustrated this post with pictures from all the roseplants/-bushes I found in some stage of bloom, there are also some that have not started yet.

Picture: A budding Queen Elisabeth
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Now to the subject of this post: Highness Rose. The fragrance starts with the gum-like smell that is characteristic of  natural perfumeoil. Then different stages of mulitfaceted nuances of rose follows, velvety but somehow fresh, spicy with hints of smooth green. Highness Rose is all about the rosepetals, not the greenery or thorns at all. It also about red rosepetals, in different shades and nuances, from light to dark purple red. All the different nuances of the roseoil are like a scentpyramid in itself. In the later stages when Highness Rose becomes darker, very smooth and with a texture of velvet, the fragrance almost smell like a hybrid between rose and tuberose, something that could be find in Vero Profumo Rozy EDP, where in Rozy EDP the two notes are actually blended. 

Of course there are some additions to strengthen aspects of  Highness Rose (violet and spices according to Fragrantica), but the impression is only true roseoil. There is for example no scent of geranium, citronella, raspberry, peach, patchouli, oud or other common rose companions. 

Picture: Light pink and minimalist roses from a wild  rose bush

Photo: Parfumista (c)

Today I'll enjoy Highness Rose in all it's splendor. And also good midsummerdishes with family and a few good friends, distanced, outside.

Happy Midsommer!

Picture: Two varities of  yellow roses sneeking in in this tribute 

to their red  relatives

Photo: Parfumista (c)

The fragrances of Christmas Eve 2019

Picture: From the Christmastree
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The Scent of Christmas Eve 2019 (grey outside but no rain today, and +5C) is the amazing new Puredistance Gold. A suitable scent for Christmas with the beautiful myrrhnote and it´s cold- outdoor -in the wood - impression. Mr Parfumista is wearing  an incense classic, Comme des Garcons Jaisalmer, a perfect match of incense and smooth hot spices which mingels to a very special band-aid note. 
Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn for the last sixtheen Christmas Eves:

2018: Rubj Extrait by Vero Kern (warm, glowing orange in spices and elegant white flowers)
2017: Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford (elegant retro but also contemporary austere flowery-green.)
2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody)
2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals)
2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote)
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy)
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)

Wish you a Great Fragrant Christmas! 

Puredistance - Gold

Picture: Gold as visual art, concept by
Jan Ewoud Vos 2019
Photo: Puredistance (c)

WOW! The latest installation in the Puredistance opus Gold is a "constantly sniffing my wrists fragrance". This is of course not unexpected as "True exclusivity", the Puredistance slogan, exactly nails the sprit of this genuine house. When wearing Puredistance perfumes, I'm often get the feeling that I have to throw out a a significant part of  the rest of my fragrance wardrobe.  The Puredistance perfumes all through are blended with high quality ingredients and that creates a higher and more complex dimension of perfumery. There are for example no shortcuts where cheaper substitutes for ingredients are hidden in the Puredistance-creations. Puredistance is probably the most genuine perfumehouse  on the market when it comes to quality and a classy, conceived fragrance concept . As all Puredistances, Gold is in Extrait, for Gold in 36´% perfumeoil concentration. 

Gold is a part of the "sub" colour-line within the Puredistance Collection, all created by masterperfumer Antoine Lie. The colour-line started with Puredistance Black, followed with its contrast Puredistance White, is now completed with the intertwining Gold. Both Black and especially White have strokes of glowing and glimmering gold, and Gold itself is - as the name imply - the matte texture and aura of the material in different alloys interpreted to a scent.  The position of Gold on the fragrance notescale, is between the dark, mysterious Black and the bright, happy, shining White. The tonality of the fragrance is also very well matched by the beautiful golden flacon in the white de luxe box.

Gold starts with a light herbal- cold - spicy touch, a fresh hint of something close to a soft scent of Juniper. After a while a candied mandarine appears,  reminding me of the candied orange peel in Serge Lutens Bapteme du Feu, juicier in Gold, just as the mandarine pulp itself is candied. Some bright balsamic facets are also shining through early on, probably the myrrh as the impression is clean and a bit chilly. A slight dirty-clean accord is also present for a while, it's like washing a horse after a ride with a luxury schampoo. There is also a green almost rosy element involved, probably the geranium. In the next stage the balsamic notes steps forward, dominated by the velvety coldness of sappy myrrh. The balsamic notes are thick but not heavy at all, the mix is smooth and very well balanced. Later one there is an unexpected and alluring phase in the development: Just like as the balsamic accord suddenly becomes misty, like transforming to a swirling haze, maybe this expression is coming from the smoothness of tonka beans. In that haze, I can also smell strikes of a contrasting, illuminating freshness of vetiver. In the late stage in the dry down of Gold, a soft slight soapy, clean resinous texture appears.
In the overall impression of Gold there is (to my nose) some resemblance to classic Jean Patou Sublime, even if that one is oriental flowery and Gold is a balsamic oriental  and also a smoother, richer, more accomplished creation.

Picture:  Gold is a perfect glow in the dark
and gloomy November, for me the optimal
season for the Puredistance rich fragrances
Photo: Puredistance (c)

Gold is very well blended and one can smell the high quality of the ingredients, the mix has a sort of a velvety density, without being heavy. The fragrance is very rich and harmonious, it's a relaxing, calming fragrance, when worn in the office, it has an anti-stress impact. I really like the resinous myrrhe-theme, and to me Gold is the other side of the coin of Puredistance Sheiduna - Gold is the cold, balsamic oriental, perfect illustrated by the sapphire in the gold plates in the picture above. Sheiduna is the warm balsamic oriental, it could be illustrated by a ruby, the sibling to the sapphire, in the same golden setting. Gold and Sheiduna are related, even if not too close. Actually they are both needed in the fragrance wardrobe to accompanying different moods/weather/occasions in the autumn/winter. Both are also very appropriate for the coming holidays Christmas and New Year. Just as Sheiduna, Gold has an outstanding longevity (24h +). Silage is close-medium and Gold has a subtle appearance, it has presence but doesn't interfere the personal spaces of others. Gold is unisex leaning to the feminine side.

To sum it all up: Gold really smells amazing and I'm enjoying it very much. It's up in my personal top three of the Puredistances, sitting there together with Sheiduna and Warszawa. Gold is the best launch of 2019 from what I have smelled so far from new releases.

Notes: Mandarine, bergamot, pink pepper, clove, rosemary, jasmine, labdanum, geranium, cinnamon, styrax, benzoin, myrrh, patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean, castoreum, vetiver

 

If I still rated reviewed fragrances, Gold absolutely should be a 5 rated perfume

Thaks to Puredistance Jan Ewoud Vos for the opportunity to try this beauty
 

Peonies

Picture: A summerview from Stockholm Old City
Photo: Parfumista (c) photo from exactly
 a year ago, 24 June 2018

 

Even if I have no beautiful peonies in the garden I'm now (after the midsummerevening choice of Penhaligon's Peveone) into testing peonyperfumes. There are only two of them in my collection, the other one is Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine (VP). I was wearing VP yesterday and just as Peveone VP, at least from the later part of the heartnotes and in the basenotes, is mostly a pink rose perfume. The rose in VP is light, pastel tuned pink, whereas Peveone is dark pink. VP is dry compared to Peveone which is lush, juciy and showing up its beauty in a composition that creates the image of a warm, humid summerevening. VP is dry and chilly, understated, the peonies and roses ar accompanied with a wellbalanced dose of pinkpepper and cedarwood. There is a light touch of fruit which doesn't become sweet. VP is the image of peonies a grey, chilly and windy summerday. There is something, probably the rosewater and the chilly feeling, with VP that reminds me of an easy to wear rosefavorite of mine: Coquillete Tudor.

 

The notes of Vert Pivoine are (according to Fragrantica): Peony, ivy leaves, rose water, rose, gardenia, mimosa, red fruit, sandalwood, cedar, musk, vanilla.

 

The notes of Peveone are (according to Fragrantica): Violet leaf,, jasmine, rose, peony, vetiver, musk, chasmeran

Peoneve

Picture: The pink rosebud of yesterday
has unfolded during the midsummernight
Photo: Parfumista (c)

For the evening yesterday I switched fragrance to Penhaligon's Peoneve and it tangy, bitter peony (i a good way)combined with the pink rosy smell was great for Midsummer. This time the scent of peony dominated over the rose, usually it is the opposite.

Midsummer 2019



Picture: Midsummerroses with some sage
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Midsummer 2019 is warmer then last year, about 20 C + and cooling windy after the heat followed by tunder and (sadly just) a little rain, of yesterday. Have not still decided what to wear, last year midsummer I was wearing the quite heavy Halfeti   from Penhaligon's, this year I hesitate between wearing something light, slight woody and fresh or something matching a garden in full bloom.


When it comes to the former theme I think about  Yuzu Ab Irato from Parfumerie Generale, I'm having a PG crush for the latest weeks. Yuzu Ab Irato is refreshing with a damp, wet, slight woody, herbal accord suported by citric and restrained cold flowers. The dampness reminds me of something that could be an easy to wear, casual, bright and summery sibling to the dramatic wintery/early spring BeauFort Fathom V. 


The fragrance for the latter theme, the blooming garden, is depitched by Penhaligon's lush (mostly) dark pink rosy, peonyfragrance Peoneve, which of course, in a traditional view, is more appropriate for THE summerday of summerdays.


During the writing of this entry I started to really crave for Yuzu Ab Irato and had to apply some.
The choice is now obvious. Sometimes some structuring of thoughts has to be done to reveal the real craving of the day.


Happy Midsommer!

Picture: A pink Queen Elizabeth
Photo: Parfumista (c)

.

Easter in Guerlain

Picture: Easter Egg, with no resemblance
to the fragrances worn….
Photo: Parfumista (c)

And here are my Guerlain choices for the second part of Easter 2019....

 

Easter Eve: Encens Mythique D'Orient - I know that EMD'O is a high quality and well blended perfume but it doesn't team up well with my skinchemistry, at least not when heavily overapplied, applied five tiny spritzes and even if I tried to wash it off, it lingered like a second skin. I'll try only one spritz to do it justice another day. Starts with an interesting accord of cedar, spices that creates that almost eletrical note or dust on warm a light bulb note that is present in Mona di Orios Carnation and Téo Cabanel Kasar. After that I lost contact with EMD'O, it becomes an unstructured muddle of spice, rose and woody notes. But I don't give up that easy, the notes are just my cup of tea and I'll conquer EMD'O sooner or later.

 

Easter Sunday: Apres l'Ondee Edt - A comforting and calming perfume experience compared with the suffocating experience on Easter Eve. Starts with a beautiful, clean, earthy, slight carrot-y irisaccord, after a while violet, anis and heliotrope joins and Apres l'Ondee smells just like the outdoor precursor to L'HB as it also is. Not as powdery and indoor as L'HB, elegant casual and almost fresh. A happy fragrance unlike L'HB.

 

Easter Monday: L'Heure Bleue Edt - As mentioned above, the more powdery, lipstick, deeper and darker variation along the iris-violet-anis-heliotrope theme which isalso  the core of Apres l'Ondee. In L'HB there is also neroli that combined with carnation and balsamic notes creates a more dramatic and sophisticated style than the cheerful Apres l'Ondee. L'HB is melancholy, beautiful and intriguing, one has to take time with this, it's not an easy fragrance. I tested the Edt version today to compare with Apres l'Ondee which also is in Edt. The Edt (vintage from 1989) has a great radiance and longevity, when it comes to Guerlain the Edt and Edp formulas are different variations of the fragence with some differences in notes/accords. It's not som much about strenght and longevity.
 
Wearing Guerlain for six days is not at all boaring, on the contrary, I'll explore the fragrances further.

Easter in....

Picture: Spring, Easter and Scilla´s in the garden
Photo: Parfumista (c)

 

This year I was pondering of what the theme for my Easterposting should be. Earlier years the theme almost always has been appropriate fragrances for Easter in the (to my nose) for the occasion appropriate fragrancesgroups gourmand, incense and green. As late as this Wednesday I had no clue what theme to choose when suddenly it stood all clear derived from my SOTD that day Mitsouko Edt: Fragrances from the honorable house of Guerlain should be the Eastertheme.

Wednesday (almost Easter): Mitsouko Edt (semivintage from 2001): This is a light sort of carefree Mitosuko, almost easy to wear. The typical peachy, spicy accord is cleaner, brighter, higher on the fragrance notescale and not as multifaceted  as the Edp. The latter could  sometimes, especially with a spritz to much applied, be perceived as almost muddled. The basenotes of the Edt, at least in this version, is dominated from an uplifting and pleasant note of vetiver. I think this verion of Mitisi is truly unisex.

Maundy Thursday: Rose Nacree du Desert - Starts like a green, elegant rose with also  the greenery botteled. Than it evolves to a radiating still very elegant creamy, clean rosy chypre with vintage vibes, if it had a color it would be powdery light salomonpink. When wearing RNdD I come to think of another elegant contemporary chypre Sisley Soir de Lune even if that one is deeper, heavier and more of a evening fragrance, whereas RNdD is a daytime fragrance.

Good Friday: La Petite Robe Noir Couture - Yesterday was very pleasant like I was wrapped in a delicious dessert during the whole day. Not too sweet if moderatly applied, with  just a few spritzes the earthy base with patchouli and vetiver are more present. Excellent longevity, even now  I can smell the pleasant notes of  cherry liqueur and patchouli on my wrists. To me it really smells cherry even if the berry in the notelist is raspberry.

 

 I will continue with a post about the fragrances for the last three days of this Easter on Monday.

Happy Easter!

 

 

In memory of Notre-Dame....

Picture: Notre-Dame Paris
Photo: Tristan Nitot (cc) some rights reserved
Wikimedia commons

….as we know her.

This morning I wanted to honour the Grand Dame of Paris and therefore choose an appropriate fragrance to remember this fascinating spiritual and cultural heritage. The SOTD was obvious:
Opus 1144 from UNUM/Filippo Sorcinelli, a fragrance inspired from the gotic era which was started approximately 1144. The fragrance is inspired from the stone in the cathedrals and the grey skies of Normandy, a birthplace for the Gotic style and Culture.

Opus 1144 is a lovely oriental styled perfume, comforting and cherishing, a Shalimar wrapped in a fluffy, creamy lemony note. What I don't understand is; where is the connection to the gothic era and the chatedrals? When I'm wearing Opus 1144 I come to think of the art deco style of the 1920s. Instead I'm associate Rosa Nigra from the same brand to medieval style and  atmosphere. This is some of the allure with perfume, different people have different associations. Positive news in this disaster are that two of the dominating luxury conglomerates will donate huge amounts to rebuild Notre-Dame and as a consequence, indirectly, we as parfumistas are also contributing. 

Puredistance - Aenotus

Picture: The visual feeling of Aenotus,
watercolor of Marleen Molenaar
PR Puredistance (c)

Aenotus is the just launched perfume from one of the most exclusive perfumehouses, Dutch  Puredistance. Aenotus is the result from an over three year long creative process where the founder of Puredistance, Jan Ewoud Vos, together with perfumer Antoine Lie, created the signature fragrance for Jan Ewoud. The name Aenotus is made-up by Jan Ewoud, inspired from the greek mythology and more precisely, Aeolus  the god of the winds.  Based from testing performed by both Mr Parfumista and me, I can tell the name definitely is suitable for this airy contemporary  citrus-aromatic creation.

The very first impression when spritzing Aenotus is the high quality and seamless blending of the ingreditents. This is of course the sign of all the Puredistance perfums and becomes obvious in a minimalistic and clean construction as Aenotus. The perfume (Aenotus, like the whole Puredistance line, is close to the skin, extrait formulas) starts with an accord of a very natural smelling lemon, a lemon with depth and a soft roundness, probably a contribution from the complementing orange fruits. There is also a note reminicent of lime. A glimpse of fresh minty leaves appears followed by a very light and well behaved touch of the moist, watery greeness of  one of my  favorite green fragrances Beaufort Fathom V (whereas Fathom V is not well behaved ). I also got a short impression of vintage Eau de Rochas and Mr Parfumista also smells a glimpse of vintage Bowling Green from Geoffrey Beene. Further in the dry down, a shining, white, dry chalky note appears, wrapping Aenotus in a soft rounded aura, not soapy at all, it conjures a similar smooth texture and feeling. There is also a spritzy dry, blond woody, peppery accord, probably from the black currant buds combined with mint and the musks in the base. The peppery effect is quite distinct on Mr Parfumista and Aenotus on his skin becomes reminiscent of a softer luxuary sibling to Hermès Eau de Citron Noir.

In the basenotes Aenotus is stronger on the musks and a sort of dry sunwarmed woody peppery accord amplifies when it comes to Mr Parfumista wheras my skin brings out more of chalky and minimalistic, contemporary mossy notes, even if some of that special woody/peppery accord is also there. Several testings of Aenotus confirms that the performance of the fragrance is very sensitive to the wearers skinchemistry and also to the dosage.  When I'm wearing Aenotus there is an impression in the baseaccord, maybe the mossy note, that reminds me of  the "scenery" (not the scent itself, except fragments of the mossy note) of Pierre Guillaumes beautiful contemporary, mossy Papyrus de Ciane.  Also there is something in common with the mossy musk in Chloé Nomade, even if  Nomade as a fragrance is different, it's floral and sweet compared to Aenotus. When I'm wearing Aenotus glimpses of the citron is still there, also in the base. On Mr Parfumista the base is more onedimensional, like a thicker and smoother, sunwarmed, dry, peppery wood à la Hermès Citron Noir. As I've smelled Aenotus projecting more times from Mr Parfumista than from myself,  Citron Noir is altogether the fragrance that most comes to my mind when evalutating Aenotus.

Picture: Aenouts in its elegant packing
in different sizes, 17,5 ml, 60 ml, 100 ml.
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

Wearing Aenotus is comfortable but still intriguing as the fragrance triggers differnt associations, to other fragrances and also to the context of the fragrance. Imagines like a cooling breeze a sunny spring or early summerday by the sea with sun and a clear blue sky are the first impression. When leaving the direct seaside, scents from the rural landscape appears like greenery, woods and moss.

Aenotus is a versatile fragrance, it's suitable for daytime wearing year around. It's an understated and officefriendly perfume which wears close to skin. If properly applied of course, the rich formula allows only a few tiny spritzes, if overapplied it could  be almost suffocating. Longevity 24h + even if moderate applied. Compared to other aromatic fragrances, which in comparison often seems "thin" in texture, Aenoutus is multifaceted with a full texture, and something as rare as an aromatic fragrance in perfume formula. Even if Aenotus is a unisex fragrance leaning to the masculine side, I'm planning to wear it anyway and I'm certain I'll exploring new facetts and impressions. To be continued.

Notes: Orange, mandrin, lemon, yuzu, mint, blackcurrant bud, petitgrain, oakmoss, patchouli, musks

Thanks to Puredistance for the sample to test

Fragrances for late winter

The late winter, with spring around the corner, is the perfect season for a true parfumista: One day I'm carving a light and bright springfragrance and the other day a deep and dark oriental and the third day something in between. Below some nice frags from this week:


Picture: Prada (Amber)
Photo: PR Prada (c)

Prada (Prada): My bottle is from 2005 it's before Prada added "Amber" to the name. The perfect dark and embracing contemorary oriental with a rounded patchouli paired with amber and some vanilla.

Picture: Geranium Bourbon
Photo: PR Miller Harris (c)

Geranium Bourbon (Miller Harris): Green, dry, sunny, airy, with an austere and clean geranium flower note. A natural scent, like a garden a cool and windy summerday. Vintage in style but timeless anyway. Somehow GB resembles the intriguing Rose Noir in a bright version.

Picture: Aurore Nomade
Photo: PR The Different Company (c)

Aurore Nomade (The Different Company): A very special high quality, boozy, flowery, gourmand oriental with banana and rum accords. Warm and opulent, almost tasty. Comforting.

Picture: Galop d'Hermès
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

Galop d'Hermès (Hermès): The ulitmate rose-leather with the special addition of quince. Reminds me of a strictly and colder variation of Penhaligon's warm and spicy quince rose Vaara. Very classy and elegant.

Picture: Iris des Champs
Photo: PR Houbigant (c)

Iris des Champs (Houbigant): A light purple and grey fragrance. Starts with a delicious rooty iris then develops to a cloud of cold flowers with iris and lily of the valley as protagonists. Daytime springlike elegance.