Ormonde Jayne - Ta'if

Picture: In the Bey's Garden (1865)
Painting by John Frederick Lewais (1805-76)
Wikimedia commons

An Ormonde Jayne Classic, the beautiful oriental rosefragrance Ta'if was created by perfumer Geza Schoen in 2004.

Starts with a burst which smells like green pepper, not pink, mingling with something reminding of a tangy citric note. Soon an slight juicy, pink, rosy note appers, and then the whole accord becomes light creemy after a short while and Ta'if reminds me of a bit sharper, less juicier Le Galion La Rose. As Ta'if developes, the rose interacts with the other flowers, the bright and chilly freesia is prominent to me. Ta'if is more of a boquet than a solar rose fragrance and surprisingly bright and high up on the fragrance note scale to be an oriental fragance. The saffron is playing a supporting role in the background, not at all as prominent as in the standard dark, often oudy, oriental rose fragrance. At one stage in the middlenotes a hint similar to cedar appears which together with a fizzy, peppery note, reminds me of a light and smooth interpretation of Perles de Lalique and also of a more refined, cremy and smooth version of Marni. The datenote provide a moderating dark, fruity component, anchoring the kind of shrill flowers together with the pleasant amber-musky base.

Summed up Ta'if is a pleasant rose in the cold rose category. It's slight watery, but not at all thin, on the contrary it's heavy but in the same time transparant as the air of high humidity up in the mountains. As less sharp and more juicy/creamy than most cold roses, there is hints of warm trails Ta'if in some parts of the dry down. Since Ta'if creation many roses in the same style have emerged, I also comes to think of Burberry Body and Unum Rosa Nigra, and even if Ta'if is not as unique anymore, it has stood the test of time very well and is still a wellcrafted, intriguing fragrance. The longevity is great, traces are left after 24h, and sillage is good. Proper for daytime wearing escpecially for office or formal occasions. Works for year around, exept the coldest months.

Rating: 5

Notes: Pink pepper, saffron, dates, freesia, rose, orange flower, jasmine, broom, amber

Thanks to Fragrance & Art för the sample to test

Ormonde Jayne - Vanille d'Iris

Picture: Iris Germanica (Deutsche Schwertlilie)
Drawing by Franz Eugen Köhler, 1897
Köhler's Medizinal-Pflanzen,
Wikimedia commons

Vanille d'Iris is a 2015 release from Ormonde Jayne created by Geza Schon.

Vanille d'Iris starts with an iris with an light, fresh carrotnote, like from a tin and small carrot "priemeur", harvested in the early summer. After a while Vanille d'Iris becomes more flowery, the carrot disappears as in most irisfragrances which are starting up with the rooty accord which gives an intriguing and sort of fresh, despite the earthy connction, impression for the irisgenre. After a while a non-sweet vanilla shows up and it reminds me of the chalky vanilla of Parfums de Nicolaï Vanille Tonka. The iris as the protagonist among other florals which dominates the heart and reminds me in style of the Le Galion Iris and Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile even if both these fragrances are more lush, flowery and warmer in apperance. Vanille d Iris goes quickly through the flowery phase but iris is also clearly evident in the woody-green accord of the basenotes , reminding me of a contemporary iris-woody classic as Heely Iris de Nuit. The iris in the base is balanced by a clean vetiver as also a barely detectable vanilla, adds an opposing smoothess which, together with a light glowing amber, almost precisely placing Vanille d'Iris just over the border in the feminine iris territory. But Vanille d'Iris is perfectly wearable for men who likes for example Dior Homme where the lipstick texture actually is more feminine in style than the subtle vanilla/amber addition in Vanille d'Iris.The base is also lightly infused with a clean but not powdery or soapy musk which higlights the other notes and makes the fragrance last for long.

Picture: Vanille d'Iris
Photo: PR Ormonde Jayne (c)

Vanille d'Iris is a good, elegant, "basic iris" wearable year around. It doesn't bring anything new to the genre but is well crafted and well worth  sampling if searching for a(nother) basic iris. It's a perfect office fragrance if carfully applied as it's a strong formula which despite its clean character could be overbearing if to much is spritzed, three-four spritzes is the limit. Longevity is very good about 24h, sillage is heavy.

Those who likes irises in general both flowery and woody, will probably also like Vanille d'Iris.

Rating: 4

Notes: Coriander, bergamot, carrot seed, pink pepper, oris, jasmine, magnolia bud oil, osmanthus, vanilla, cedarwood, vetiver, amber, musk

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Une Nuit de Bali - Suma Oriental, Mr Vetyver, Fleur des Fleurs

Une Nuit de Bali is a french fragranceline inspired from the plants, flowers, trees and natural substances of southern Asia.

Picture: Suma Oriental
Photo: PR Une Nuit de Bali (c)

Suma Oriental starts a tad too musky but this accord soon fades out in a bright sandalwoody and in the same time slight boozy accord. Later on Suma Oriental becomes darker, induced from a very well balanced patchouli which is supported by woody note and the sweet, powdery notes of tonkabeen. The light boozy impression remains also in the deeper and darker second part of the fragrance, a phase which is very comforting and long lasting. A good, easy to wear, woody oriental with classical vibes, there is something "Shalimar-ish" over it but not as complicated and without the sweet and animalic notes. Suma Oriental is my favorite in the line

Picture: Mr Vetyver
Photo: PR Une Nuit de Bali (c)

Mr Vetyver is a straight forward, masculine but IMO also unisex fragrance. In its first part Mr Vetyver smells like icecold dry vermuth. The chilly impression contiues when cold spicy notes appears, cardamon is dominating supported by herbal notes. There is also the musky note present in Suma Oriental which is more prominent and present duiring the whole dry down in Mr Vetyver. Maybe this musknote is a part of the house´s baseaccord. Worth to try for those who likes cold, white, boozy fragrances as Penhaligons' Juniper Sling and The Different Company De Bachmanov.

Picture: Picture: Fleur de Fleur
Photo: PR Une Nuit de Bali (c)

Fleur des Fleurs starts watery, like a floral light fruity bubble bath. The fruity notes are soft and airy, with a natural sweetness. There is also warm spicy notes, a light saffron is well blended with the flowesr and fruits. Warm, green notes, like tropical leaves balancing the fruits and flowers in a sunny, comforting and relaxing fragrance which is appropriate both for humid days in summer as to enlight during grey winterdays.Even if not smelling the same, Fleur des Fleurs reminds me of a contemporary interpretation of Balenciaga Michelle.

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the samples to test

5 Top Late Summer fragrances 2016

Photo: Late Summer 2016
Mr Parfumista (c)

The summer is in its final stage, after a cold and rainy week in the middle of August, the sun and warmth are back, as often when school and work starts again. When it coming to perfumechoices, this late summer is a bit confusing compared to my earlier middle/late summer cravings which were for dark and dense autumn/winter appropriate perfumes. This year it seems as I havn't any cravings for a particular fragrancecategory at all, everything goes. Wearing fresh and bright fragrances is common this late summer compared to earlier years. Below five choices from the latest weeks, both bright and dark ones.

Vent Vert (Pierre Balmain): The windy-green Vent Vert  is the archetype of a spring/early summer fragrance but even as good in August. I like the new and the older 1990:s version equal, this time I've worn the new version which smells less flowery and more tart and musky than the older version. A fragrance which receives compliments.

Les Colognes Néroli (Annick Goutal): A contemporary reworking of the classic Annick Goutal Néroli Edt. The cologne is a somehow oldfashioned but not dated, sopay, musky, bittergreeen, neroli with an outstanding longevity to be classified as Cologne. Probably this is due to the musk which is present in many contemporary fragrances which aspires as Colognestyled, for example the whole line of Atelier Cologne.

Cuir Garamante (Parfums MDCI): Mr Parfumista goes for some dark stuff and Cuir Garamante is perfect in the glowing, damp heat of the late summer. The late summer conditions are perfect for the intriguing dry down of CG:s dark leathery, boozy, dark woody accords. This fragrance shows different aspects in different wearings and there is still new twists to discover. CG is one of the very best in this genre, from what I have smelled so far, IMO the best.

As Sawira (Penhaligon's): As Sawira is deep and mysterious, featuring dark frutiy, floral and spicy notes over a gentle resin, amber and slight oudy base. Not the standard oud-saffron-rose accord even if all three of them are present. As Sawira blooms a gray day with high humidity and some rain.

Rose Ishtar (Rania J.): A dry, spicy, dark, tart and watery rose with glimpses of a mens cologne and some almost herbal aspects. Even if close to the skin, Rose Ishtar is an intense and very present fragrance. A very special rose.

5 fragrances for the the height of summer

Picture: A stroll on the beach (1896)
Painting by Michael Ancher (1849-1927)
Wikimedia commons

The height of the summer is here and here are also five summer favorites 2016:

Aqua Sextius (Jul et Mad): So refreshing with its lime notes and watery texture. Green, wet, minty leaves and a dry woody-figgy accord, Aqua Sextius is perfect for a warm and sunny summerday. Excellent longevity even in high tempratures.

Un Jardin sur le Toit (Hermès):  Ripe fruits, greenery, damp soil and compost in an urban context, there is also a light touch of something that smells like the exhaust in the city air a warm summer day. UJslT is a comfortable fragrance, a fragrance to reach for days when I'm in a hurry and don't know what yo wear.

Eau Parfumee au The Bleu (Bulgari): This cologne really feels blue, the fersh, tea-ish structure of  the classic The Vert with lavender and iris. Hearbal, cool, earthy, combined with some elemets that slightly reminds me of Prada Infusion d'Iris which is no coincidence as the perfumer of both fragrances is Daniela Andrier.

Eau Parfumee au The Noir (Bulgari): This refreshing, leathery beauty could easily be a niche fragrance. Dry with smoky nuances but tea is not as detectable as in the other tea fragrances from Bvlgari. Probably the tea creates some of the smoky vibes and is the factor that lightens up the fragrance. Normally ingredients like in The Noir creates a ticker and heavier texture.

Imperial Tea (By Kilian): From the dark black tea to the regal white jasmine tea from Kilian. Clean and minimalistic, smelling just like a pot of fresh brewed jasmine tea. Very refreshing and easy to wear in summer.

I'm taking a summer break from blogging until August. Wish you a great summer!

Mona di Orio - Bohea Bohème

Picture: The Yunnu hill, the symbol of the Wuyi Mountains
Photo by Ricky Chow (cc)
Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

Bohea Bohème is the latest fragrance from the house of Mona di Orio and the second release which is not created by the great, and sadly, late Mona. Bohea Bohème is created by Fredrik Dalman, an unknown perfumer to me, the name sounds suspicious swedish. The fragrance Bohea Bohème is inspired of and will capture (according to a brief from the perfumehouse)  "the smoldering delicacy of the distinctive tea cultivated in the Wuyi Mountains of China. The precious Bohea Tea, fumed with pinewood, is prized for its complex aroma and rich character"

 Bohea Bohème starts with a  smokey, light tea-ish note infused with a note resembeling tar. There also a hint of cardamom and a light, uplifting blond woody impression, as wood in the mountains of a warmer climat, cooled off by the rain. There is also something bright and almost chilly to the first part of the fragrance, probably an effect of the chamomille inteacting with the woody notes. As Bohea dries further down, the fragrance becomes warmer, woodier, rounder and a tad sweeter, even if this is not at sweet fragrance at all.
The fragrane also calms down from the explosion of notes in its first part, it becomes a skinscent, close to the wearer. The basenotes of Bohea is a plesant, light smokey, sort of waxy, balsamic, woody.

Alltogether, the fragrance is loud and somehow refreshing in its first part and then calms down to be intimate and relaxing in its later stages. Bohea as a whole is not the typical tea-fragrance, tea is just one of the co-working ingredients. This make me think of another fragrance in this genre which Bohea may be inspired from, the intriguing  Russian Tea from Masque. The same concept with tea as a co-working note and some similarities in smell, i.e the smoky note. Compared to Bohea Bohème Russian Tea is more distinctive, rougher, tougher with more contrasts during its dry down. Except smoky, black tea, Russian Tea also have notes of mint, leather and raspberry. If roughly translated to seasons of the year, Russian Tea is a winterfragrance and Buhea Bohème is for summer.

Picture: Bohea Bohème
Photo: PR Mona di Orio (c)

Bohea Bohème is a fragrance suitable for daytime wearing, both for work and casual. Silage is big in the topnotes but then becomes a close skinscent in the later stages. Longevity is very good, I can smell unfragmented traces after 24h+. The fragrance is totally unisex.

Bohea Bohème is a good fragrance but to me it lacks the originality, creativity and depts of the creations of late Mona di Orio herself. Compared to Monas compositions Bohea is soulless and could have been released from any nichehouse. The unique style, skills and the bottled passion in the fragrances created by Mona are lost in the releases post Mona. There will be a difficult future for the house of Mona di Orio to stand out from the nichecrowd as the house did during the days of Mona.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, cardamom, iris, chamomile,  poplar bud, balsam fir, boxtree, geranium, black tea oil, smoked juniper, oakwood, sandalwood, beeswax, bay leaf, benzoin, vanilla absolute

Malbrum - Short impressions

Malbrum is a norwegian perfumehouse which will join the norwegian spirit with french perfumery. The first three fragrances are inspired from asian ingredients, scents and aromas. I have tested two of them, both created by Delphine Thierry.

Picture: Shameless Seducer
Photo: PR Malbrum (c)

Shameless Seducer starts like a citric infused version of Infusion d'Iris combined with non-descript florals. There is some sharp notes, probably wood and vetiver, combined with a cold spicy impression, probably from the musk-cumin combo. The animalic notes described in the notelist are not clear to my nose.
Shameless Seducer has some almost refreshing, cold qualities that reminds me of the late winter just before the first signs of spring arrives which are captivating. Shameless Seducer is a bit messy to start with but then put it self together to a nice, easy to wear, musky, slight spicy, cold, almost airy floral fragrance. Unisex.

Picture: Tigre de Bengale
Photo: PR Malbrum (c)

Tigre de Bengal is a spicy, light leathery, warm oriental with smokey accents, reminding of burned wood in a tropic landscape. The smoke reminds me of a lighter version of the smoke from tropical burnt wood in Maïtre Parfumeurs et Gantier Eau de Iles. The warm spicy notes feels fresh, not as dried spices and the accord, comined with a creamy touch, reminds me of a lighter and paler version of Kenzo Jungle l'Elephant. There are also a boozy note in the basenotes of Tigre de Bengal. A nice contemporary, a bit subdued, representant of the spicy oriental sub category, unisex, leaning slight to the masculine side.

Both fragrances are in  Extrait de Parfum concenration. As a whole, I like Tigre de Bengal the most but Shameless Seducer on the other hand, has passages which are more original than what could be found in Tigre de Bengal. Somehow the fragarances mirroring each other: Some notes/accords have similarities but are interpreted in a cold respective warm version. Taken as a whole: The tested Malbrum fragrances are not groundbraking but easy to like and wear.

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the samples to test.