måndag 9 november 2015

Perris Monte Carlo - Bois d'Oud

Picture: Uttewalde Grund
Painting ca 1825 by Caspar David Friedrich (1774-1840)
Wikimedia Commons
Bois d'Oud is a fragrance in the Perris Monte Carlo oud duo, to me it's the more feminine one whereas Oud Imperial is definitly the masculine alternative.

Bois d'Oud starts powerful with a woody, light oudy accord underscored with smokey notes accentuated by a light note almost close to grilled meat or burned leather. This meat/leather note but more distinct is present in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Cuir and to a lesser extent in Amouage Interlude Man where it's matched with a tangy almost rhubarbnote. Further on flowery elements steps forward, the flowers are interwoven with woody elements in an intricate pattern which gives an impression similar to flowery oud, I think it's the cambodian variety. In this stage I recognize the oudy, flowery style of Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud which smells more "vintage/perfumery" (in a positive way). As Bois d'Oud dries further down, the fragrance becomes more woody-spicy and Montale Amber & Spices comes to my mind, later on another Montale shows up the flower-sandalwood Sandalsliver which is brighter, sweeter and is playing in the higher octaves of the notescale. In the basenotes Bois d'Oud reminds me much of a darker, less sweet and more balsamic Sandalsliver with sudden whirls of the smokey notes.

Picture: Bois d'Oud
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)
Bois d'Oud as a fragrance captures the mystical, dark, forest atmosphere in the Caspar David Friedrich painting above. It's appropriate for dusky autumn and winterdays but it's also developing very well when tested in summertempratures. Bois d'Oud is a strong fragrance, a little will go for long. Longevity is for 24h and sillage is medium or more. Its intensity makes it suitable for a night out. If worn in the office, gently application is recommended.

Rating: 5

Notes: Peach, plum, jasmine, rose, iris, orange blossom, oud, cedar, blackwood, patchouli, vanilla, ambergris, labdanum, musk

måndag 2 november 2015

Brecourt - Les éphémères - Poivre Bengale

Picture: Capturing the spirit of
Poivre Bengale
Photo: PR Brecourt (c)
Brecourt is a small nichehouse founded by IPSICA pefumer Emilie Bouge in 2010. Besides the regular line, Brecourt some years ago introduced  "Les éphémères" a collection which presents exclusive natural ingredients and highlights them in fragrances dedicated to each ingredient. Poivre Bengale is the second fragrance in the Les éphémères collection.

Poivre Bengale starts peppery, a very nautral, freshly grounded pepper. The pepper is Bengal pepper which I have learnt is not rounded, instead it's oblong. This was the pepper which was first introduced in Europe during the Antiquity and it's sweeter than the usual pepper. Soon also fizzy nuances of ginger appears as also nutmeg and Poivre Bengale reminds me of another spicy favorite of mine, Montale Amber & Spices (swe) where Poivre Bengale is less sweet (despite the description of the character of the pepper above) and doesn't contain any rosy elements. The smooth sandalwood is also a note that is clearly present and common for both fragrances. Overall Amber & Spices is more "spicy gourmand" to my nose than Povre Bengale. When reaching the middlenotes, the fizzy ginger element is withdrawn and a pleasant, very well balanced clove note appears, clove in some fragrances tend to take over, which is not the case here. The spicy notes are interacting with the woody base, where the sandalwood gives it a warm impression. In the basenotes an almost leathery note contribute with a dark and just slight moisty dept. There is also something that reminds me of a very light mintnote in the second part of the fragrance, probably it appears in the combination of some of the other notes. Taken as a whole Poivre Bengale is very dry, warm and in the same time clean and, I know it sounds strange, refreshing fragrance. Wearing Poivre Bengale in sunny, dry and warm weather (ca +25 C) gives that strange clean, refreshing, effect, probably due to the lack of sweetness and the well composed dryness. Another fragrance that appears on the olfactory radar when enjoying Poivre Bengale is Lorenzo Villoresi Piper Nigrum which is airier, sort of thinner in apperance, also presents herbal and green elements and has a tangy aura, almost similar to turpentine. Edition Frederic Malle Noir Epices is also coming to my mind when wearing Poivre Bengale, where Noir Epices just as Amber & Spices, is a bit sweeter and is including some flowery elements. Also some elements from Lubin Idole Edp are present.
Picture: Poivre Bengale
Photo: PR Brecourt (c)
As mentioned above, Poivre Bengale is fab in warm weather and here is a spicy fragrance that works for all seasons, which is not common. Sillage is medium + and longevity very good, traces are left 24h after application. Poivre Bengale is unisex, leaning slight to the masculine side.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bengal pepper, ginger, clove buds absolute, nutmeg, sandalwood, leather, cashmere woods, ambergris

Thanks to ParfumMaria for the sample to try

söndag 1 november 2015

Blog anniversary 9 years today

Picture: Autumn roses
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)
Time flies, it doesn't feel that long since I wrote the last anniversary post, that for the eight years anniversary of the blog.

At the moment I crave some wonderful fragrances from the house of Perris Monte Carlo, reviews will start soon and are planned to be running during the winter. I have also some intriguing samples waiting for test from one of the very best online nicheperfumeshops Fragrance & Art which carries some unusual fragrancelines. Also a sample of the new By Kilian is on its way from Paris.

When it comes to the fragrances worn during weekdays i.e when not much testing going on I can't see any particular trend. It's everything from the heavy YSL Opium to the light Annick Goutal Les Colognes Eau d'Hadrien, maybe this broad variety mirrors the relatively mild weather this autumn, with only a few colder days until now.

And now, lets go for the decade :-)

måndag 26 oktober 2015

Brecourt - Les éphémères - Rosa Gallica

Picture: Rosa Gallica (Romania)
Photo: From Wikimedia, user Bogdan, (cc),
some rights reserved 
Rosa Gallica is the first creation in the special collection "Les éphémères" from niche house Brecourt. The fragrances are created by perfumer and housefounder Emilie Bouge. The story behind Les éphémères is according to information from Brecourt as follows: "Each perfume in the "Les Éphémères" collection directs its focus on a rare and precious raw material. Often it involves completely forgotten substances that can only be produced in very small quantities or are too unstable to be noted on the list of popular fragrances.Whoever manufactures a fragrance under such conditions cannot guarantee that the fine raw material in the center of the composition will be available again in the required quantity or quality in the following year. No one can predict whether a perfume can ever be reproduced as the perfect equivalent to the "first edition." Therein lies the volatile nature of these creations: they are impermanent, not reproducible, available only for a short time and in limited quantities ... "éphémère". " The Rosa Gallica is a very old type of rose, known from 1100 BC and imported to Europe by the crusaders in the middleage.


Picture: Rosa Gallica
Photo: PR Brecourt (c)

The perfume Rosa Gallica starts with the for "single" roseperfumes typical, a bit oily, rubbernote, this time i percieve it as been located in the pink octaves of the note scale. The opening accord with the roseoilrubber reminds me of the opening of Annick Goutal Rose Absolue. Soon Rosa Gallica transforms to a darker (still pink), sweeter, balsamic, almost jammy rose with peppery-light spicy accents, probably the myrrh-incense combo. Here Rosa Gallica resembles another beutiful rose fragrance, this time of the oriental type: Aramis Calligraphy Rose. The roses are a bit more prominent in Rosa Gallica whereas Calligraphy Rose has a wider range of notes, also spices and herbal notes. After this stage, Rosa Gallica lightens a bit in the imagined pink nuance and the peppery note intensifies on a musky background, here I recognize a bold, oriental rosy favorite of mine: Montale Roses Musk  Either of these fragrances are containing oud according to their notelists but I think there is some involved as both has some of the woody peppery note that is involved in many oud fragrances. For a short while I percieve Rosa Gallica sweeter again, with an almost vanillic touch and Mancera Roses Vanille shows up. In the basenotes, Rosa Gallica turns back to the Aramis Calligraphy Rose phase again, but more rosy and pink than the latter when comparing the basenotes.
Picture: Rosa Gallica
Photo: PR Brecourt (c)
As indicated above, Rosa Gallica has similarities with a bunch of distinctive oriental rose fragrances, Therefore it's not particularly original or innovatory but it smells really good and is a pleasure to wear. Rosa Gallica is classified as unisex, to me it leans to the feminine side on the scale. Longevity is great about 24h and sillage is big but not overwhelming. Rosa Gallica was not at all what I've expected, when reading of the background and looking at the picture of this ancient rose. I thought it would be a relatively light but tenable natural, clean smelling pink rose in the style of Annick Goutal Rose Absolue or Rose Splendide (swe), which was the case only in the very first accord.


Rating: 5


NotesBaie rose, incense, gallican rose, myrrh, cashmere woods, ebony, ambergris

Thanks to ParfumMaria for the sample to try

måndag 19 oktober 2015

Olivier Durbano - Prométhée

Picture: The legend of Prométhée
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)
Prométhée is the 2014 addition to the Olivier Durbano collection. With Prométhée Olivier, according to what is written around the background to the fragrace, want to enter a new path for his fragrances. Many of the earlier ones are focused around different incense themes, with Prométhée he wants to do something new.

Prométhée starts with a masculine colognenote dominated by the characteristic citrus note of a classical cologne. This stage lasts only for a short while, soon step by step peppery, herbal and soft spicy notes appears. Then a slight animalic note appears, giving the herbal notes a rounder and softer shape. In this stage, Prométhée reminds me of Miller Harris L'Air de Rien  but less sweet and musky than the latter.
This stage is followed by a quirky passage that lasts for a while. A metallic note appears and something starts to grow until it smells almost like fresh blood. This is a bit upsetting and disturbing for ones peace of mind but it doesn't smells bad at all. I get a similar, but lighter painted, metallic-bloody experience in Parfumerie Générale Harmatan Noir. As the metallic-bloody accord steps back,  Prométhée gets spicier and darker, with resins smoothening the dominating herbal theme. An effect that reminds me of the smell of mulled wine appears and Prométhée is from now a fragrance that triggers a contemplating mood. Later a tart and dry earthy-vegetal accord appears, reminding me of the smell of crispy autumn leaves on the frosty ground a cold late autumnday. There is also a hint of pink pepper present but it doesn't dominate, just adds some sparkle. Vetiver also brighten the base with a woody, green slight citric element. The herbal aspect of Prométhée reminds me of Parfum d'Empire Corsica Furiosa even if that one evokes the image of a hot mediterrian summerday with burned herbal/grassy notes but also greener, lighter, playing in the higher octaves of the notescale. 
Picture: Prométhée
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)
Present over the dry down from the middle to the end of Prométhée there is a cold, rounded accord whith a mineral wibe, I think it's a interpretation of myrrh. This cold stone accord are present in many of the earlier Durbanos and it has a similar apperance as in Prométhée in one of my favorites from the house, Lapis Philosophorum. To me Prométhée is not a depature from the Olivier Durbano style, it's still the same but this time without a dominating incense. Promethèe is a difficult and demanding fragrance which highlights different aspects in different wearings. Therefore it's intriguing and challenging to wear in the same way as Lapis Philosophorum.

Promethée to me is the perfect autumn fragrance, it captures the mood and colors of late autumn. It could be worn both for work and casual but one have to be careful when applying, this is strong stuff. Sillage is medium and longevity for more than a day. It's a unisexfragrance leaning slight to the masculine side.

Rating: 4

Notes: Fennel, pink pepper, nutmeg, myrtle, labdanum, lily, narcissus, sage, styrax, incense, ambergris, cedar, musk, vetiver

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to try 

måndag 12 oktober 2015

Franck Boclet - Patchouli

Picture: Empress Josephine in a
patchouliscented kashmere shawldress
Painting by painting by Antoine-Jean Gros (1809)
Picture from pintertest, referred to 1000fragrances.bolgspot.com 
Patchouli is a fragrance from the perfumline of the fashionhouse Franck Boclet. Patchouli is created by perfumer Melaine Leroux.

Patchouli starts with an old book musty patchuli but the old book note is not as strong or sharp as in Les Nereides Patchouli Antique. Soon the old book impression lightens up and a dark chocolate and spices are added, with the moisty impression prevails. After a while the chocolate and spices transforms to a beautiful, clean not by any means muddled tobbacco note. Tobbacco is not mentioned among the notes but somehow the fresh tobbacco smell is present. This clean almost sparkling and natural smelling tobbacco is the leading part for quite a while, the tobbacco reminds me of the beautiful Parfums de Nicolaï Cuir Cuba Intense. Then the patch, this time cleaner and earthier, once again takes the centerplace. The pathouli is now paired with a very pleasant, smooth, moisty, creamy, slight musky note, which rounds the edges off. As Patchouli dries further down, the spicy accord appears again as also the tobbacco glimpses now and then. The basenotes are woody with ambery, vanillic touches, the patchouli still present but appears lighter and cleaner almost as it now has transformed for a mission where it has to offset the other sweeter and heavier basenotes.
Picture: Franck Boclet Patchouli
Photo: PR Franck Boclet (c)

Having a soft spot for patchoulifragrances, Franck Boclet Patchouli IMO is a very good and multifaceted representant of the genre. As much is going on, with contrasting elements interacting in different ways during the different phases of the dry down, Patchouli is particulary intriguing when taken in consideration that it's presented as a solinote perfume (which it of course is not).

Patchouli is a warm, comforting and relaxing patchouli, perfect for autumn and winter. It's projects close to medium depending on dosage. It's unisex in character and could be worn for work or casual. Very good longevity, it lasts unfragmented for more than a day.

Those who likes patchouli fragrances as Chanel Coromandel, Oriza L. Legrand Horizon and Ramon Monegal Mon Patchouly will probably like Franck Boclet Patchouli too.

Rating: 5

Notes: Patchouli, cedar- and sandalwood, amber, benzoin, tonka been, vanilla, musk

Thanks to Fragrance and Art for the sample to test

måndag 5 oktober 2015

Five fab frags for fall 2015

Already in the middle of the autumn, which are probably the best days when it comes to wearing perfume over the whole year. Crisp and chilly days are contrasted with almost summery tempratures, the last traces of the summer. This encourages the use of fragrances representing quite different perfumestyles. Below some favorites for the mid season, excluding the ones I have tried and/or reviewed during the latest weeks.
Picture: Perle de Mousse
Photo: Parfums Ann Gerard (c)
Perle de Mousse (Ann Gerard): Many describes this as a springscent, probably because the Lily of the vally note which is one of the protagonists together with ivy and galbanum. To me it's autumn as I precieve it as golden, glowing, tart and dusky as the moisty forestfloor.
Picture: Eau Soleil
Photo: PR Parfums de Nicolaï (c)
Eau sOleil (Parfums de Nicolaï): From the 2013 Nicolaï summercollection of lighter and easy to wear fragrances. To me this warm and golden nerolifragrance where the citric notes are skillfully balanced with herbal notes is like a sunny day in the autumn, a warming sun with some crisp chilliness in the shadow.
Picture: La Religieuse
Photo: PR Serge Lutens (c)
La Religieuse (Serge Lutens): This subdued, slight soapy and animalic jasmine havn't many fans when reading comments and reviews. To me it's sort of contemplating and serene reminding me somehow of an everyday variation emerged from one of my most favorite SL:s ever, De Profundis.

Picture: Gucci by Gucci Edp
Photo: PR Gucci (c)
Gucci by Gucci (Gucci): I very much appreciate this contemporary chypre both in the darker fruitier Edp version as also in the more flowery Edt. It's dark, stripped patchouli with  its earthy freshness adds a contrasting dept to both versions. A modern classic.

Picture: Colonia Oud
Photo: PR Acqua di Parma (c)
Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud (Acqua di Parma): The top and middlenotes of this are fabulous, a flowery oud which reminds me of the slight flowery cambodian oud. In the basenotes it's more of a standard peppery woody (porbably cedar) oud but some of the flowery woody accord glimpses now and then.

Which are your mid-fall favorites?