Photo: Parfumista (c) |
lördag 29 juni 2013
Fragrance(s) of the week (26-27) 2013 - Geeky
fredag 28 juni 2013
Annick Goutal - Les Colognes Vetiver
Picture: Seaside Oregon, US Photo by Apollomelos, Wikimedia Commons |
Les Colognes Vétiver starts with an airy, seabreeze, light vetiver accompanied with something smelling of clean, soft leather. It has nothing of the intriguing scent of soapy silver polish which is carachteristic for the original Vétiver. As the cologneversion dries down, a light touch of a citric-flowery note appears, mingeling with the light, clean leather-vetiver note. The pleasant and discrete white musk of the other Les Colognes is also present in the vétiverversion grace it with some airy radiance. Les Colognes Vétiver is subtle but still present in a comfortable and seaside impression way. A very wearable stylish, fresh fragrance, perfect both for work and casual. Sillage is close but when it comes to longevity, talking about seaside, Les Colognes Vétiver has more to be desired, it can not cope a three hour boattrip in the inner archipelago. In office sorroundings I suspect it will last for almost a day.
To really appreciate Les Colognes Vétiver I think one have to see it as a separate creation to the original Vétiver. To me the cologne version has more in common with the airy-transparent Etro Vetiver than with the original AG Vetiver Edt.
Rating: 4
Notes: Lemon, vetiver, rosemary, sage, iris
onsdag 26 juni 2013
Annick Goutal - Les Colognes Néroli
Picture: Glass vial containing Neroli Essential Oil Photo: Itineranttrader, Wikimedia Commons |
Le Cologne Néroli starts with fresh, pale green orangeblossom/neroli notes. The opening is sparkling and moist compared to the Edt-version, which I suspect is discontinued. The Edt starts with the orangeblossom/neroli but supported by notes that gives it a herbal touch. After a while notes smelling almost as fresh mushrooms appears in the Cologne, while the same passage in the Edt smells like a well kept stable with happy horses. The Cologne Néroli has the same typical, fresh luxurary linen colognenote as Le Cologne Eau d'Hadrien and lots of other better colognes. Just as the Hadrien Cologne, there is a fine, white musk base that intermediates a moisty impression. Overall the cologneversion is more flowery and sparkling, in the Edt version the orangy notes are combined with a herbal touch. Even if the Cologne Néroli is more similar to other nérolicolognes i prefer it slightly to the Edt.
Le Cologne Néroli has better longevity on me than the original Edt. I suspect that the white musk, just as in Le Cologne Eau d'Hadrien, is the facilitator of this. The Cologneversion lasts for more than a day with fragments left after 24h and the Edt lasts for almost a day.
Those who likes Hermès Eau de Cologne d'Orange Verte, Historiae Orangerie du Roy and the likes will probably appreciate Le Cologne Néroli.
Rating: 4+
Notes: Neroli, orangeblossom, petitgrain, heliotrophe, white musk
måndag 24 juni 2013
Annick Goutal - Les Colognes Eau d'Hadrien
Picture: Kornfeld mit Zypressen, 1888/1889 Painting by Vincent van Gogh (1853-1890) |
Le Cologne Eau d'Hadrien starts with citrusnotes but to my nose there are more of the notes from the orangetree than lemonnotes in this version. Also the light fresh cypress note is much more evident than in the older version. If the old version has a color it's bright, yellow as a fresh lemon where the cologneversion is pale orange-pale-green it it had a color. To me Le Cologne Eau d'Hadrien is close to a thinner versin of Dior Escale à Portofino minus the almondnote in the latter and plus the fresh herbnotes of the former. Somewhere in the middle of Le Cologne Eau d'Hadrien a pleasant, slight bitter note of lemon cores also appears. The woody musky base are wellbalanced and the musk is pleasant, watery in texture and is probably the ingredient that provides this cologne a decent longevity. I feel traces of it in the evening after applying liberally in the morning. Perfect scent both for work (very officefriendly) and casual. Summery in style but, as with the old Eau d'Hadrien, I would recommend wearing it on sunny winter to obtain a better longevity and to get time to catch this fine fragrance.
Rating: 3+
Notes: Lemon, tangerine, grapefruit, bergamot, petitgrain, cypress, basil, rosemary, musk
lördag 22 juni 2013
Fragrance(s) of the week (25) 2013 - Midsummer
Picture:Night on the Eve of Ivan Kupala Painting by Henryk Siemiradzki (1892) Wikimedia Commons |
On Midsummer Eve I forced myself to take a break in the roseparade, wearing something more non-descript floral/grassy/hayish to match this special day, my choice was the very versatile Jour d'Hermès. Smells very good but IMO with some longevity issus, it just last for 6-8h under out-of-doors conditions.
torsdag 20 juni 2013
Historiae - Violette Imperiale
Picture: Empress Eugénie (1826-1920) Portrait 1853 by Franz Xaver Winterhalter (1805-1873) |
Violette Imperiale starts with an airy, transparent blackcurrant note, first the berries and then followed by the tartness of the buds. After a while, the fragrances deepens as also rich, fresh fruity notes appears followed by sweet flowery notes where the violet is evident but not dominating the others. The violet is of the same sweet type as Violtabletter, a swedish jelly candy pastille which tastes as a sweetened violet flower. The berry, fruity floral theme is intensified by the white musky base but the musk is wellbalanced and counterbalanced by the light woody notes. Violette Imperiale newer goes powdery as for example Blanc Violette by Histoires de Parfums nor crisp and green as for example Annick Goutal La Violette, it stays fruity-violet-flowery during the whole dry down
Picture: Violtabletter swedish violet jelly candy Photo: PR Fazer (c) |
Rating: 3
Notes: Orange, blackcurrant, peach, violet, iris, raspberry, ylang ylang, vanilla, musk, amber, vetiver, sandalwood
Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test
Etiketter:
1826 Eugénie de Montijo,
Annick Goutal,
Blanc Violette,
Creed,
Histoires de Parfums,
Historiae,
Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie,
La Violette,
Review,
violet,
Violette Imperiale
måndag 17 juni 2013
Historiae - Rose de France
Picture: Francis I (1494-1547) Painting 1530 by Jean Clouet (1475-1540) Wikimedia Commons |
Rose de France starts fruity with almost raspberrylike topnotes blended with roses. The first impression, put in a plesant way, is the smell of a coughmedicin for chlidren which I've been medicated with as a child.After this bold opening the roses steps forward in a dry, but never overwhelmimg or cloying, potpurri-like accord.
The dry roses smells very authentic but after a while the fragrance gets moistier, sweeter and the roses alive and accompanied with other fresh blooming flowers as the dewy peony. The now fresh, medium purple pink rose is the protagonist during the rest of the dry down. The musky base with some balsamic and patchouli touches reminds me of the creamy, very pleasant, but artifical smelling white musky base of the Oscar de la Renta Essential Luxuries line.
To me Rose de France is a pleasant rosy fragrance perfect for office- and casualwear for spring and summer. I can't see the connection with the era of Francis I as I image the roses of this century as dangerous, dark, dirty and heavy. Sillage is medium and longevity for more than a day.
Those who like pink musky rosefragrances as for example Bulgari Rose Essentielle and Burberry Body Tender could also appreciate Rose de France.
Rating: 3
Notes: May rose, damascena rose, pear, bergamot, tagetes, rose absolute, magnolia, mock orange, clove, davana, peony, géranium, listea cubeba, benzoin, vanilla, musc, amber
Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test
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