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måndag 24 juli 2017

6 Fragrances for Summer 2017

Picture: Clover 2017
Photo: Parfumista (c)
Soon already in the late days of summer 2017, time for a list of perfumes I like for summer. And not just for this summer but for summers in general.

Reverie au Jardin (Tauer): This is imo a neglected fragrance from Swiss perfume meastro Andy Tauers earlier creations, worn by me for about ten summers now. Seems simple but is in the same time clever in construction: Lavender, greenery like clove, an outdoor, green incense and probably a woody violetnote as Mr Parfumista associates to Dior Farenheit when I'm wearing Reverie au Jardin.

Eau d'Orange Verte (Hermes): What more to say after decades with this tangy, green, bitterorange elegant "fresh" brew grounded in moss, than: A masterpiece, the best and most versatile Cologne ever.

Verveine (Heeley): Round, full, like what I imagine a green full moon in dark August would look like if such should exist. A sort of grassy-fruity green scent with what I percive as a figgy-woody accord. Delicious for summer.

Mon Patchouly (Ramon Monegal): Dark, earthy patch in some interpretations is refreshing for middle and late summerdays. Mon Patchouly is a delicious but non-sweet take on patch with its powdery, dry powdery cocabeenfacetts.

Coton Egyptien (Phaedon): Ultra blue skies over sunbathed dunes, a loose shirt in a light, almost transparent, white, crisp egyptian cotton. The fragrance is green like grass, with a clean accord which smells almost like a green, dry, laundry detergent.

Musk Samarkand (Les Neréidés): A clean, robust white musk with something slight dirty lurking in its depts. No detergent and refreshing as a chilly summer breeze a hot sunny day. Reminds me of a budget alternative (but just as good as) to the new interpretation of Parfumerie Generales old Musc Maori 04: Le Musk et la Peau 4.1. My bottle of Musk Samarkand is an earlier version, the bottle with the bookmark angels on the sticker.

måndag 11 augusti 2014

Top summerfragrances 2014

Picture: One of the Small Towers on Frederiksborg Castle, 
ca 1834-35
Painting by Christen Köbke (1810-1848)
Wikipedia commons
The summer up here in the North was cold from late May and whole June. In July thankfully the warmth appeared and is still present in August with an intensive heat, a very warm, humid weather around 30 degree Celsius. This reflects the list of what I've liked in particular this summer ie very different styles.

Un Bateau pour Capri (Eau d'Italie): This dark, purple, velvety, aldehydic, fruity, flowery creation blooms wonderful  in the ot humid weather. My top find from my sample testing for the blog this summer.

Montecristo (Masque): During the cold first part, the spicy, dirty, animalic Montecristo was a comforting and warming choice. A very big fragrance in the old YSL Opium style. Also tried it when it was quite warm, 20-25 degree Celsius, and its sillage was tremendous and I got positive reactions (belive it or not :-)

Rosamunda (Laboratorio Olfattive) and Rose Anonyme (Atelier Cologne): Both refreshing fragrances in the cool, pink rose-patchouli-oud genre. Very close to each other where Rosamunda is a tad sweeter in its earlier stages and Rose Anonyme a bit woodier. When they have dried down on their scentstrips, I can't tell them apart. Both these fragrances smells much better when worn in the fresh sea-air of the archipelago compared with when worn in the city. Both fragrances shows more notes and another dept by the sea.

Mistral Patchouli (Atelier Cologne): A lighter, daytime, casual, herbal version of the discontinued Dior Midnight Poison. Almost the same, stripped down, dark, patchoulinote as in Midnight Poison. Fresh in a pleasant, non-laudery way. The grapefruit-anice-patchouli is suprinsingly a very good match.

Philosykos (Diptyque): This creamy, woody, fig is so refreshing and easy to wear. Was my staple during a vacation on Ibiza in June. Philosykos is the mediterranean for me, especially Greece of course, but it mixed suberb with the dry, pine infused Ibizian air.

Ciel (Amouage). I like the old Amouages best, the newer are not as "grand". Even if good fragrances, the newwr seems a bit anxious and flattened, afraid not to please an extended audience compared to some years ago. Ciel is a symphony of watery, white flowers which projects beautiful in warm and sunny weather. Easy to wear, a happy and elegant fragrance

Eau de Cologne d'Orange Verte (Hermès): A summerwardrobe staple, the most versatile of them all. Also the current formula is very good, more emphasis on the oranges than in the old (even better) mossy grounded one.

Horizon (Oriza L.Legrand): I love patch in the summer, the earthy, herbal smell is cool and refreshing. Even if Horizon is a patchouli grounded in honey and amber it developes surprisingly well in hot temparature. A beautiful, natural smelling tobbacco note is particularly present in warm tempratures.

Relique D'Amour (Oriza L.Legrand): A cold, light flowery, pine incense which performs excellent in hot and humid weather. It's refreshing and not as dark, bold and dense as for example the incensestandard Comme des Gracons Avignon which is too much for me in the summer.

måndag 29 juli 2013

5 top green summer fragrances

Picture: Crowded on the waterway to Stockholm in July
Photo: Parfumista (c) 
As I wrote in a post recently, I'm perfumwise, in tune with the season this summer i.e I don't long for the darker and heavier fragrances of autumn/winter which is quite common for me. This summer is green in different interpretations to me and even if I don't have time to wear all the fragrances mentioned, there is always some new samples in waiting for test, I sniff them regulary and ensure that the rest of the family wears some of them.

Coton Egyptien (Phaedon): Finally, thanks to Mr Parfumista and the kids who used up my sample, I get this elegant, casual, galbanum light, freshly ironed, high quality crisp cottonfabric fragrance. There is no detergent vibes in this as in for example Serge Lutens L'Eau Serge which is a perfume in a similar style but with a chemical (in a positive way) apperance. The Phaedon line is re-packing in new bottles and it seems as Coton Egyptien is discontinued as it doesn't appear among the re-bottled fragrances. At present Fragrance & Art sells the Phaedons in the old bottles, among them Coton Egyptien, to a reduced price.

Vent Vert (Pierre Balmain): The soapy, slight salty, light musky notes combined with galbanum of the current version reminds me of the archipelago, more particulary the wood-fired sauna with the following bath in the cold seawater. My appreciation of the current version is growing, I like it as much as the older, sharper, more elegant version.

Cologne Friction (Parfums de Nicolaï): This gentle, crisp, grassy cologne is like sunwarmed grass added with a light accord of the non-cocnut classical austrian sunscreen Snikk. I think Cologne Friction is on my top summer fragrances list almost every year, it is so relaxing and versatile. Unfortunately it seems as it's discontinued when looking at the new Parfums de Nicolaï website.

Vetiver (Guerlain): Mr Parfumista wears both one of the later Edt versions and a vintage Edc. Both are great (even) for summer. The Edt version (with better longevity) is a bit soapy, with a lighter touch of vetiver, in the Edc the vetiver is more concentrated, smells almost as, but not as strong, the pure vetivernote in LesNez Turtle Vetiver.

Cristalle Eau Verte (Chanel): Another underappreciated Chanel IMO. This slight flowery, herbal, watery-green fragrance reminds me of a chilly and refreshing vermuthdrink loaded with icecubes a hot summerday. Perfect casual chic for work during the summer.