Visar inlägg med etikett mimosa. Visa alla inlägg
Visar inlägg med etikett mimosa. Visa alla inlägg

torsdag 23 januari 2014

Olivier Durbano - Citrine

Picture: Citrin geschliffen 58 Carat
Photo: Wela49 (cc) Wikimedia Commons,
some rights reserved
Citrine is just like Lapis Philosophorum earlier this week a part of the Olivier Durbano line dedicated to semiprecious stones. Citrine to the yellow to brown rare gemstone (most "citrines" are in fact heat treated smoky quartzes or amethysts).

Citrine starts with warm and lemony, accompanied with slight pepper/incense notes. After a while a flowery accord sweetens Citrine and the yellow mimosa shines through as does a balancing note of rosewood. The mimosa is not as distinct as the mimosa in Annick Goutal Le Mimosa and the rosewood is nota as notable as the rosewood in Comme des Garcons Palisander. Resins and slight honeyd waxy notes are lending an unusual sweetness without any vanillic notes and the fragrance is very comforting. In the basenotes the warm and glowing, resin sweetness of myrrh and ambery notes completes Citrine in deeper facets. Traces of the peppery/ginger/elemi accord from the beginning of the fragrance is present in the background as also the soft note of mimosa.

Citirine is a pleasant and thanks to the mimosa unusual resin/incense fragrance. It's soft and discrete, a deliberated fragrance that doesn't intrude to the personal space of others ie a good fragrance for the workplace. With it's sunny apperance it's suitable for summer but also for autumn and winter to remember the warm days. Longevity is for a day.

I think those who like one of my all time incense favorites Comme des Garcons Zagorsk would also appreciate Citrine. Even if Zagorsk is stronger and more distinct with its pine and incense, both fragrancses has a flowery quality but whereas the Zagorsk flower is icy and cold, the yellow mimosa of Citrine is sunny and warm.

Rating: 4

Notes: Citron, orange, elemi, ginger, pink pepper,carrot seed, mimosa, rosewood, linguum vitae (sort of gaiac wood), musk, myrrh, grey amber, beeswax

torsdag 7 februari 2013

Oscar de la Renta - Coralina

Picture: Acacia constricta flower,
Photo by Stan Shebs (c) some rights reserved, Wikimedia commons.

Coralina is a mimosadominated contribution to the Essential Luxuries line of Oscar de la Renta. It's the third flower dominated fragrance of the line besides Mi Corazon (tubereuse) and Granada (orangeblossom).

Coralina starts with a sparkling, sunny, very yellow and natural smelling mimosa. The fragrance is happy and clean in a positive way (not detergent). The mimosa is brighter than I usually percieve the note, I typically smell it a bit darker and golden, powdery in scent and texture. As Coralina developes an almost cold violetnote appears, contrasting to the warm, sunny mimosa. Iris is also mentioned among the ingredients but I can't dedect it as a separate note, probably it balances the violet, preventing it from beeing (too) nice and sweet. There is also a part of Coralina that reminds me of light and elegant leather, but this part lasts only for a while wheras the mimosa take the centerstage again, supported by a green with traces of the crisp, greenness of bulbflower leaves. When reaching the basenotes, Coralina gets a bit of the mimosapowder, but on my skin just a hint.The main impression of Coralina in the basenotes is that of the fragrance fleeting around in an accord of mimosa/flower/musk which lasts good but is less interesting than the first half of the developement of the fragrance. Compared to another mimosa i have tried, Annick Goural Le Mimosa, Coralina is lighter in structure and with less body. The fragrances are different interpreations of this nice, yellow flower. Also Maria Candida Gentile Hanbury which have clear elements of mimosa is more fullbodied.

Coralina wears close to the skin and the lasts for long, 24h, subtle and full. A discrete and officefriendly fragrance that doesn't offering any sensations, just lingers, creating a comfortable aura to the wearer.

Rating: 3

Notes: Mimosa, violet, iris, musk, wood

torsdag 27 september 2012

Maria Candida Gentile - Hanbury

Picture: Giardini Botanici Hanbury - pavilion.
Photo by Daderot, (cc) Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved.

This weeks jurney to beautiful Italians Villa-gardens continuies also today. Villa Hanbury is a north italian Villa by the sea with a beautiful garden founded 1867 by the Hanbury family who runned the gardens for many decades but was passed to the University of Genova about thirty years ago. Among the flowers cultivated in the botanic garden, the golden mimosa is a speciality of the Hanbury garden and the flowers are also used to produce essence of mimosa. Mimosa of different types are present in some classical or familiar perfumes as Carons Farnesia, Annick Goutal Le Mimosa (in swedish) and Edition de Parfums Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie. Mimosa is also the protagonist in Maria Candida Gentiles golden nectar Hanbury, a just beautiful fragrance that, just as intended, immediately transports me to a mediterrian garden in bloom.

Hanbury starts with a golden blast that I precive as produced by medium yellow flowers even if some withe especially the orangeblossom, also have prominent roles. On my skin a delicious orangeblossom is the most prominent note. There is also a winterblowing flower, Calycanthus praecox, in the fragrance, winterblooming flowers is unusual even in northen Italy. I don't know how it smells but I suspect it's one of the very nice notes that radiates from my skin wearing Hanbury. The florals are velvety in its structure and give me the impression of beeing soaked in honey and resting over a slight dry resiny base. Hanbury is a smooth and somehow full perfume and it has a beautiful depth. As the rest of the Maria Candida Gentile line, there a high precentage of naturals in the blend, something that is particulary evident in Hanbury, the flowery impression is very authentic. Compared to another delicious orangeblossom in a similar style, Sweet Redemption (summary in english) by ByKilian, Hanbury is more clean and flowery and SR more of a liquary and sweeter orangeblossom.

Hanbury is a beautiful, wellcrafted and casual- elegant fragrance that could be worn year around but blooms beautiful in warm weather. It's very feminine in style and wraps the wearer in comfort and pleasure. Sillage is close to the skin and longevity is medium almost for a day.

Rating: 4

Notes: Lime, bitter orange, orange, mimosa, white honey,calycanthus, musk, benzoin

lördag 29 januari 2011

Annick Goutal - Le Mimosa

Acacia pychnanta, (Golden Wattle), Burnley Gardens, Victoria, Australia
Foto: Melburian, Wikipedia Commons, some rights reserved

Solig och rätt kall vinterdag där jag faktiskt börjar märka att det blivit ljusare ute, både morgon och kväll. Det känns att våren faktiskt finns där borta någonstans. Och det vill jag förstås fira med en varm, solig, glad och sprittande doft. Så jag greppar mitt prov av Annick Goutals ljuvliga Le Mimosa. Och den fångar perfekt den stämning som jag känner så här i slutet av januari: Längtan till ljus och värme och efter ljusa, glada och blommiga dofter.

Isabelle Doyen brukar inte göra mig besviken och gör det heller inte med sin skapelse Le Mimosa. Jag anser att doften är rätt linjär, dvs lukar i stort sett detsamma genom hela utvecklingsprocessen. På mig blir en nyskuren mimosa inklusive de gröna bladen direkt från kylan i blomsteraffärens inglasade förvaring tydlig. Lika tydlig blir dess partner, persikan. Det är en fullmogen, inte övermogen, rosa-gul-röd solvarm nyplockad persika som är lagom söt, lite inblandning av persikokärnans doft finns också. Det finns också iris och anis i doften men jag känner dem inte tydligt, jag tror att de finns där för att lugna ned och ge kontrast till de annars så "stora" noterna av persika och mimosa. I basen finns ett varmt sandelträ som harmonierar med de andra gula och varma noterna. Det här är ytterligare ett exempel på hur lyckad en fruity-floral komposition faktiskt kan bli när parfymören håller sig borta från sockersöta kemikalier och en överdos av mysk. Det andra exemplet är Andy Tauers Une Rose Vermeille som jag skrev om tidigare i januari.

Le Mimosa är en chic liten skapelse som passat perfekt att bära dagtid året om när man vill ha sol i sin tillvaro. Den ger mig också associationer till det sprudlande i champagne, kanske i mix persika - en Bellini. Tack vare den harmonierande persikan tar inte mimosan över vilket skulle kunna göra doften entonig och tråkig. Det ända minustecket är hållbarheten under dagen vilket i och för sig är ett vanligt problem med Annick Goutals EDT:er men inte med EDP:erna, på mig i alla fall. Den tonar bort för snabbt och är knappt skönjbar på kvällen. Men det kan kanske botas med en större dos.

Le Mimosa kommer att lanseras i mitten av mars. Lite sent med tanke på att behovet av en sådan här varm och solig doft faktiskt är större nu i vinterkylan.

Betyg: 3+    (hade varit 4 om det inte hade varit för flyktigheten)

Edit December 2013: Le Mimosa is a fragrance which I come to like very much.It's varm, non-sweet apricot-y, completative, relaxing and easy to wear.

Rating: 4