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måndag 5 februari 2018

Tauerville Stories Collection - Hyacinth and a Mechanic

Picture: Hyacinth and a mechanic
Photo: PR Tauerville (c)
The Tauerville line is perfumer Andy Tauer's vision for a offering inspiring perfumes handcrafted in smaller production batches. Most of the fragrances are interpretations of a special note as for example rose, incense, fruit, patchouli. Some fragrances within the Tauervilles are very rare, the Stories Collection are sold exclusive when Andy himself appears for an event in some of the perfumestores who carries the brand. Hyacinth and a Mechanic is such a fragrance. To celebrate the 15 years anniversery of LA nicheboutique Luckyscent, the three fragrances from the Stories Collection were avaible online for a month last autumn. And I couldn't resist ordering the Hyacinth despite expensive shippingrates and of course customs duty. Anyway it was worth it, this is a very rare, intriguing and beautiful fragrance.n

Hyacinth and a Mechanic (HAM) starts with the most natural smelling hyacinth note that I've smelled so far from a perfum. When applicating the fragrance, a crisp, slight fresh green spicy, sparkling hyacinth appears, is just like entering a christmasdecorated house with hyacinths in the windows, out from the cold and snowy winterlandscape. Soon a oily, petrol and light metallic accord appears, followed by a  rough leathernote, togehter contrasting the crisp hyacinth and green note. It's just like that the one who makes the entrance is coming directly from repairing the car in the garage, still wearing the overalls under a heavy leatherjacket with a curly sheepskin collar. The oily, metallic, leathery intensifies and an animalic vibe appears in the fragrance, the hyacinth is still recognizable as the unexpected contrast to such notes. Later in the drydown, the hyacinth steps forward again and during the whole dry down, the hyacinth alternate with the dirty accord of beeing the most prominent player. In the last aaccords of the basenotes, the hyacinth and the dirty accord finally seems to have blended in sort of an integrated accord.

HAM is fragrance of its own and there are no similar fragrance that I come to think of even if I imagine similar aspects in other fragrances. For example the chilliness of the hyacinth I also recognize in the cold hyacinth-iris accord of Serge Lutens beautiful Bas de Soie and to some extent also Tom Ford Vert de Fleur, the oily/metallic/petrol accord reminds me of some parts of Histoires de Parfums Petroleum but not at all as intense as the latter.

HAM is a complicated beauty, the contrasts are intriguing. In the same time it's a casual, easy to wear fragrance sort of relaxing and with an interesting development which makes one sniff the wrists regulary during the day. The sillage is medium in the first stage, then close to skin. Longevity is for a day. HAM is totally unisex to my nose.

Rating: 5

Notes: Hyacinth, animal notes, leather, woody notes

måndag 20 juli 2015

Téo Cabanel - Julia

Picture: Our new Swedish royalty HRH Princess Sofia
on her weddingday 13 June 2015.
Photo: From the press, avaible from many sources on internet
Julia is one of the first three releases (together with Alahine and Oha) when the old, venerable house of Téo Cabanel was re-launched in 2005. Julia is a re-working of inhouse perfumer Jean-Francois Latty of an older Julia formula, which I think I read somewhere was worn by Wallis, Duchess of Windsor who was a customer of Téo Cabanel in the most glorious days of the house.

Julia starts with a tangy accord of rhubarb and blackcurrant, notes thst could be harsh and sharp but obviously not in the skillfull hands of Latty. The accord feels. juicy and sunny which offsets the cold hyacinth dominated, flowery accord which is the heart of the fragrance. The hyachinth is supported by classical flowers as violet and jasmine and a plesant raspberry sweetness which supports the hyachinth-violet in the same discrete way as the iris is supported by the same berry in Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris. The raspberry and the rhubarb adds a contemporary touch to a, taken as a whole, timeless fragrance. The basenotes are elegant, woody, musky slight balsamic and matches the floral, tangy structure of Julia very well.
Picture: Julia
Photo: PR Téo Cabanel
Julia is a fragrance which suits very well for formal daytime summer dressing, it's a fragrance which intermediates confidence and exquisite taste. It´s discrete but in the same time clearly present, a very versatile perfume. Would be a good choice for a royalty like for example our new Princess Sofia for daytime representation. Longevity is good, for at least a day and sillage is medium.

Fragrances that comes to my mind (in style and apperance, they don't smell the same) when wearing Julia are Van Cleef and Arpels First and Purdistance Antonia.

Rating: 4

Notes: Mandarine, rhubarb, black currant, hyachinth, violet, jasmine, raspberry, musk, sandalwood, labdanum, incense