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måndag 20 juni 2016

Malbrum - Short impressions

Malbrum is a norwegian perfumehouse which will join the norwegian spirit with french perfumery. The first three fragrances are inspired from asian ingredients, scents and aromas. I have tested two of them, both created by Delphine Thierry.
Picture: Shameless Seducer
Photo: PR Malbrum (c)
Shameless Seducer starts like a citric infused version of Infusion d'Iris combined with non-descript florals. There is some sharp notes, probably wood and vetiver, combined with a cold spicy impression, probably from the musk-cumin combo. The animalic notes described in the notelist are not clear to my nose.
Shameless Seducer has some almost refreshing, cold qualities that reminds me of the late winter just before the first signs of spring arrives which are captivating. Shameless Seducer is a bit messy to start with but then put it self together to a nice, easy to wear, musky, slight spicy, cold, almost airy floral fragrance. Unisex.

Picture: Tigre de Bengale
Photo: PR Malbrum (c)
Tigre de Bengal is a spicy, light leathery, warm oriental with smokey accents, reminding of burned wood in a tropic landscape. The smoke reminds me of a lighter version of the smoke from tropical burnt wood in Maïtre Parfumeurs et Gantier Eau de Iles. The warm spicy notes feels fresh, not as dried spices and the accord, comined with a creamy touch, reminds me of a lighter and paler version of Kenzo Jungle l'Elephant. There are also a boozy note in the basenotes of Tigre de Bengal. A nice contemporary, a bit subdued, representant of the spicy oriental sub category, unisex, leaning slight to the masculine side.

Both fragrances are in  Extrait de Parfum concenration. As a whole, I like Tigre de Bengal the most but Shameless Seducer on the other hand, has passages which are more original than what could be found in Tigre de Bengal. Somehow the fragarances mirroring each other: Some notes/accords have similarities but are interpreted in a cold respective warm version. Taken as a whole: The tested Malbrum fragrances are not groundbraking but easy to like and wear.

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the samples to test.